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The Official Camera Equipment Megathread

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M

MRORANGE

Member
Flo_Evans said:
edit: why I love nikon...

hrgVM.jpg


my 1977 manual film camera works perfectly with my 2008 AF-S lens. :)
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Now try putting a AF-S lens without a aperture ring :)
 
D

d[-_-]b

Banned
tino said:
You want best bang for the buck? Get a used 5D mark 1 in OK shape for $600 and a third party 28-70mm/24-70mm lens for $400. There you go. ;)
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Lol might be tough to sell that to my sister, she's not a candid shopper.. she was like I want my photos to look professional and here I am, asking for help, "researching" lol...
 
T

tino

Banned
d[-_-]b;43282870 said:
Lol might be tough to sell that to my sister, she's not a candid shopper.. she was like I want my photos to look professional and here I am, asking for help, "researching" lol...
Click to expand...


whatever Nikon or Canon SLR kit you can buy for 1000 in Black Friday then.
 
I

Iacobellis

Junior Member
I asked before to no response, so I will try again:
What would be the best route into getting a telephoto lens? I'm currently using a Nikon D3100 with the 18-55 kit and a 50mm 1.8D.
I should have gotten the G model, no AF is a pain!

I can either get a 55-200 VR, or completely forget about the kit lens and go with an 18-105 or 18-200. The price difference would not be too much of an issue, I just want to carry less with me wherever I go, up to three or four lenses.
Click to expand...
 
F

Flo_Evans

Member
Iacobellis said:
I asked before to no response, so I will try again:
Click to expand...

The 55-200 vr is a crappy plastic mount with slow AF. Decent optics. The 18-200 superzoom is weak at the long end, not worth the price. The 18-105 is also a cheesy plastic mount, also weak at 105, and not all that long.

I would get the 70-300 AFS VR. In fact I did! It is a little weak at 300mm but very good from 70-200. Has VRII, which has more stabilization, and settings for "normal" and "active" which lets you to choose to allow panning or compensate for all motion.

I also just bought a 180mm 2.8 off eBay but this lens will not AF with your camera. If you hate MF on your 50 don't get this. Supposed to be one of the sharpest teles nikon makes though.

If wieght (and cost) are your primary concern get the 55-200 and treat it gentle. If focus speed (and reach) are your goals get the 70-300. If money (and wieght) are no object get the 70-200 2.8 VRII.

One other consideration, the 55-200 shares the same 52mm filter size of your 18-55. Convenient if you already have 52mm filters (or want to get some)
 
I

Iacobellis

Junior Member
Flo_Evans said:
The 55-200 vr is a crappy plastic mount with slow AF. Decent optics. The 18-200 superzoom is weak at the long end, not worth the price. The 18-105 is also a cheesy plastic mount, also weak at 105, and not all that long.

I would get the 70-300 AFS VR. In fact I did! It is a little weak at 300mm but very good from 70-200. Has VRII, which has more stabilization, and settings for "normal" and "active" which lets you to choose to allow panning or compensate for all motion.

I also just bought a 180mm 2.8 off eBay but this lens will not AF with your camera. If you hate MF on your 50 don't get this. Supposed to be one of the sharpest teles nikon makes though.

If wieght (and cost) are your primary concern get the 55-200 and treat it gentle. If focus speed (and reach) are your goals get the 70-300. If money (and wieght) are no object get the 70-200 2.8 VRII.

One other consideration, the 55-200 shares the same 52mm filter size of your 18-55. Convenient if you already have 52mm filters (or want to get some)
Click to expand...

Thanks! I'll look into it later. What do you mean by the lens gets "weak"?
 
F

Flo_Evans

Member
Iacobellis said:
Thanks! I'll look into it later. What do you mean by the lens gets "weak"?
Click to expand...

By weak I mean soft. You need to stop all these lenses down at the long end to even achieve "acceptable" sharpness, and with a maximum aperture of 5.6 you are going to quickly run into ISO noise trying to maintain a fast enough shutter speed to eliminate camera shake.
 
F

Futureman

Member
does anyone here use Radio Poppers? I have the JrX system. One transmitter for the camera and I have one receiver for a flash. I was really into Strobist a few years back but then just kinda fell off reading it.

I need to make some money from my camera now though. I have an older Nikon flash (SB28 I think?) and an Alien Bee 800.

I use a 5DII. When I connect the SB28 to my camera with a sync cable, it only pops the flash maybe 1 in 3 times. I guess it's a bad sync cable. I figure I might as well pick up Radio Popper's RB Cube thing for $30 so I can do the wireless thing. Anyone have experience with this? I don't think there's any issue using a Nikon flash with a Canon camera and the RB Cube.
 
I

Iacobellis

Junior Member
Flo_Evans said:
By weak I mean soft. You need to stop all these lenses down at the long end to even achieve "acceptable" sharpness, and with a maximum aperture of 5.6 you are going to quickly run into ISO noise trying to maintain a fast enough shutter speed to eliminate camera shake.
Click to expand...

Well, I have an SB-400. But the VR doesn't help eliminate shake enough?
 
S

Salaadin

Member
Keeping my eye on 2 cameras and watching for deals for a few weeks. Canon t3i and Nikon D5100

As someone new who is literally just starting out, which would be the better buy? Ive read reviews and they seem so similar so Im really just looking for personal experiences, if you guys have any to share.
 
M

Marty Chinn

Member
Salaadin said:
Keeping my eye on 2 cameras and watching for deals for a few weeks. Canon t3i and Nikon D5100

As someone new who is literally just starting out, which would be the better buy? Ive read reviews and they seem so similar so Im really just looking for personal experiences, if you guys have any to share.
Click to expand...

One thing that goes outside of the camera that helped me make my decision was what other people had around me. A friend of mine is really into photography and has helped give me tips and taught me how things work and a nice side effect of that is since he has a Canon, he let's me use some of his lenses. It's kinda nice to have that compatibility.
 
devon the dude

devon the dude

Member
Salaadin said:
Keeping my eye on 2 cameras and watching for deals for a few weeks. Canon t3i and Nikon D5100

As someone new who is literally just starting out, which would be the better buy? Ive read reviews and they seem so similar so Im really just looking for personal experiences, if you guys have any to share.
Click to expand...

I was stuck between the two, but chose the d5100, solely because I didn't really play to shoot any video with my camera.
 
P

Pixel Pete

Member
I picked Sony when I started out because their interface is newbie friendly.
I've thought about switching to Canon because I have friends that have Canon stuff, but none of them really have any lenses I wouldn't buy myself (so no crazy tilt shifting or fish eye stuff).

When you know how to use a DSLR, it doesn't matter which brand you pick. Go for the features you like at the price you are willing to pay. Worry about the brand later.
 
D

Damaged

Member
Iacobellis said:
Well, I have an SB-400. But the VR doesn't help eliminate shake enough?
Click to expand...

I have the 55-200 and it does need the right light to be honest, can be a very frustrating lens to use but i have had some good shots out of it on my D7000 and my old D3100

On the D7000 @ f18 / iso 400 in poor conditions



And on the D3100 at f5.6 / iso 200 in bright but cloudy skys

 
I

Iacobellis

Junior Member
Flo_Evans said:
SB-400 doesn't allow Nikons wireless flash, essential for good portraits.

DX is also a quagmire for a portrait lens. You want something around 60mm and faster than 2.8, but it doesn't exist.

For $400 you are in a tough spot.
Click to expand...

It's not like a full frame lens won't work on a DX camera.
 
F

Flo_Evans

Member
Iacobellis said:
It's not like a full frame lens won't work on a DX camera.
Click to expand...

Yeah an 85mm 1.8g is your best bet, but that is >$400 by itself without the flash.

He could get a 60mm AFD micro 2.8 but it wouldn't AF on his body, and eat most of the budget.

I would probably get a 50 1.8g and try and bounce the SB-400 off the ceiling. Not an ideal setup though.
 
P

POWERSPHERE

Member
d[-_-]b;43282870 said:
Lol might be tough to sell that to my sister, she's not a candid shopper.. she was like I want my photos to look professional and here I am, asking for help, "researching" lol...
Click to expand...

Making photos look 'professional' is doable with anything, it's all composition & interpretation. Get her a 550D and a Sigma 1.4 and she can get as professional as anyone.
 
I

Iacobellis

Junior Member
Flo_Evans said:
Yeah an 85mm 1.8g is your best bet, but that is >$400 by itself without the flash.

He could get a 60mm AFD micro 2.8 but it wouldn't AF on his body, and eat most of the budget.

I would probably get a 50 1.8g and try and bounce the SB-400 off the ceiling. Not an ideal setup though.
Click to expand...

That is exactly what I do! Thing is, a 50mm 1.8D on a D3100 body isn't the most ideal thing in the world. Once I get the money I'm instantly ordering the G version.
 
R

radios shipping overview

Member
Flo_Evans said:
SB-400 doesn't allow Nikons wireless flash, essential for good portraits.

DX is also a quagmire for a portrait lens. You want something around 60mm and faster than 2.8, but it doesn't exist.

For $400 you are in a tough spot.
Click to expand...

Well, there's always the Voigtlander 58mm for Nikon, which can be had for under $400 used. It's chipped, so it'll meter on a D5100. Manual focus, of course.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Voigtlander...26273425?pt=Camera_Lenses&hash=item27cbfff391

He's probably better off getting an old Vivitar 2800D (note: not 2800) or a Nikon SB-24 and learning to make it work for him than messing around with an SB-400.
 
I

Iacobellis

Junior Member
Damaged said:
I have the 55-200 and it does need the right light to be honest, can be a very frustrating lens to use but i have had some good shots out of it on my D7000 and my old D3100

On the D7000 @ f18 / iso 400 in poor conditions



And on the D3100 at f5.6 / iso 200 in bright but cloudy skys

Click to expand...

These photos look great! I'm guessing an 18-200 could yield similar results. Why not go to a wider aperture to compensate for the weather, instead of sacrificing with a higher ISO?
 
D

Damaged

Member
Iacobellis said:
These photos look great! I'm guessing an 18-200 could yield similar results. Why not go to a wider aperture to compensate for the weather, instead of sacrificing with a higher ISO?
Click to expand...

Thanks :) Not tried the 18-200 so cant comment im afraid. I use the narrow aperture purely for a panning technique that keeps the car in focus and the background in motion. The 55-200vr needs really good light and it was raining hard at that point with me under a tree and an umbrella, less than ideal condtions.
 
I

Iacobellis

Junior Member
Damaged said:
Thanks :) Not tried the 18-200 so cant comment im afraid. I use the narrow aperture purely for a panning technique that keeps the car in focus and the background in motion. The 55-200vr needs really good light and it was raining hard at that point with me under a tree and an umbrella, less than ideal condtions.
Click to expand...

Is panning at all difficult?
 
D

Damaged

Member
Panning isn't too bad to be honest, pick your spot to shoot, then turn to the direction that the subject is coming from, when your subject is in sight half click to focus (keep the button depressed) and turn with the subject fully clicking at your chosen point while still turning (do not stop following the subject). I find it easier to keep both eyes open until the subject is where I'm ready to shoot but that may be a personal thing
 
I

Iacobellis

Junior Member
Damaged said:
Panning isn't too bad to be honest, pick your spot to shoot, then turn to the direction that the subject is coming from, when your subject is in sight half click to focus (keep the button depressed) and turn with the subject fully clicking at your chosen point while still turning (do not stop following the subject). I find it easier to keep both eyes open until the subject is where I'm ready to shoot but that may be a personal thing
Click to expand...

I'll have to try this. I'm guessing the faster the moving object, the better?
 
D

Damaged

Member
You can get a nicer looking shot but it's harder to frame them if they are going very fast, if your shooting at a circuit look at where the other photographer's are to get a rough idea of the good spots. Where in the world are you? What circuit is your closest?
 
I

Iacobellis

Junior Member
Damaged said:
You can get a nicer looking shot but it's harder to frame them if they are going very fast, if your shooting at a circuit look at where the other photographer's are to get a rough idea of the good spots. Where in the world are you? What circuit is your closest?
Click to expand...

I'm in Connecticut, USA. Closest thing I think would be Lime Rock.
 
centracore

centracore

Member
I don't know if this is quite the right thread to ask in, but it does seem to be the closest one without posting a new one. Does anyone know about live streaming from a current consumer level HD camcorder? I have been Googling like mad but not coming up with very solid information.. from what I can tell it looks like this was only really possible on consumer level HD camcorders with FireWire of yesteryear?
 
F

Flo_Evans

Member
centracore said:
I don't know if this is quite the right thread to ask in, but it does seem to be the closest one without posting a new one. Does anyone know about live streaming from a current consumer level HD camcorder? I have been Googling like mad but not coming up with very solid information.. from what I can tell it looks like this was only really possible on consumer level HD camcorders with FireWire of yesteryear?
Click to expand...

What camera is it?

Since allot of cameras don't have a direct firewire output anymore you best bet might be an HDMI capture card? Not sure if they put HDMI ports on many consumer cameras though. Some can function as a "webcam" from USB, but usually not at full resolution.
 
centracore

centracore

Member
Flo_Evans said:
What camera is it?

Since allot of cameras don't have a direct firewire output anymore you best bet might be an HDMI capture card? Not sure if they put HDMI ports on many consumer cameras though. Some can function as a "webcam" from USB, but usually not at full resolution.
Click to expand...

I haven't bought anything yet, still in the research phase at the moment. I don't think an HDMI solution would work for us as we only have a laptop available when streaming which is why this is turning out to be a lot harder than I anticipated.
 
R

radios shipping overview

Member
NEX-7 just got a firmware update. Early reports say that magenta casts with rangefinder wides are noticeably improved. Woo!

Oh, and you can turn off the movie record button, if that's been a problem for you (it never has for me).
 
S

sneaky77

Member
jiji said:
NEX-7 just got a firmware update. Early reports say that magenta casts with rangefinder wides are noticeably improved. Woo!

Oh, and you can turn off the movie record button, if that's been a problem for you (it never has for me).
Click to expand...

yeah I gotta say I haven't hit the movie button at all by accident.
 
S

Salaadin

Member
Not sure if you guys would know this but I see Canon currently has a 50.00 instant rebate on the T3i that expires on the 27th. DO they do these often or would it be wise to buy now if Im on the fence?
 
P

Pachimari

Member
I gotta ask,

I got 2 videos on my SD (SD Ultra) card that I can't import onto my MacBook Air in iPhoto, why is that? =/

They play well on my Canon EOS 60D DSLR so the videos themselves work.
 
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