They put IS in a wide angle lens? Really?
Does Canon offer a no IS version like the 70-200/4?
They put IS in a wide angle lens? Really?
Pentax used to sell new 35mm f/2.0 full frame lens for $199. That was just 4-5 years ago.
New D5200! http://www.dpreview.com/news/2012/11/06/nikon-announces-nikon-d5200
24 MP sensor with same AF system as the D7000. Wasn't that the main complaint about the D5100?
What would GAF recommend for cameras that are under $300 that takes SLR quality photos? Bought a WB150F Samsung camera and it is not what I expected. My phone takes better quality photos to be quite honest. I'm looking for something that can take rapid shot photos and will just take nice, clean photos.
Hmm is it just me or are prices steadily going up...
Yeah, looks like it.
I'd be interested in the 24-70 f4 IS but $1800 seems very expensive.
Yeah, looks like it.
I'd be interested in the 24-70 f4 IS but $1800 seems very expensive.
I'm not sure a 24-70 f/4 makes any sense.
I'd much rather have an f/4 wide zoom, an f/4 tele and a fast 50mm. (Maybe a fast 24 or 35mm prime too).
Have a look at something in Olympus's E-PL or E-PM lines, you should be able to get one with a kit zoom for around $300, I think. (Although you might have to go second-hand)
Picked up the E-PM1 today and I absolutely love it. Beautiful camera and it's very user friendly. I appreciate the suggestion. I find it's exactly like a SLR quality wise. Anyways, how do you guys get the camera to focus on 1 image and have the background blurry? Is that a photoshop effect or is there a way to do that with the camera?
You can get that by - for example - using a long (telephoto) lens with a wide aperture. You can get somewhat close to that by setting the kit zoom to its 42mm setting and taking a portrait of somebody at a relatively short distance. You should do some reading on depth of field.
Does Canon offer a no IS version like the 70-200/4?
I've been using the Eye-Fi SD card over the last week, it's brilliant, I can shoot a bunch of pics and by the time I look at the ipad to review them they're already copied over, geotagged and waiting for me. I may never have to remove my SD card again.
GAF photographers are gearophiles
this thread gets more action than the 'POST YOUR PHOTOGRAPHY' thread
Picked up the E-PM1 today and I absolutely love it. Beautiful camera and it's very user friendly. I appreciate the suggestion. I find it's exactly like a SLR quality wise. Anyways, how do you guys get the camera to focus on 1 image and have the background blurry? Is that a photoshop effect or is there a way to do that with the camera?
I shoot more than I post in here, but I stopped posting my photography on GAF after some unwelcome critique made me realize I wasn't looking for feedback on this forum.
I've been using the Eye-Fi SD card over the last week, it's brilliant, I can shoot a bunch of pics and by the time I look at the ipad to review them they're already copied over, geotagged and waiting for me. I may never have to remove my SD card again.
GAF photographers are gearophiles
this thread gets more action than the 'POST YOUR PHOTOGRAPHY' thread
GAF photographers are gearophiles
this thread gets more action than the 'POST YOUR PHOTOGRAPHY' thread
So, during my recent banning, I got into the realm of vintage lenses. I love 'em but none of the AF confirm chipped adapters work on my T4i. Anybody else have this issue?
Cool! Curious about what vintage lenses you are using.
I shoot 90% of the time with a Pentax Takumar on my 5D. I also use my old selection of Nikon lenses. I just picked up the Nikon 15mm 3.5 for a steal. That thing is so much fun.
In answer to your question, all of my AF confirm adapters work. I use Big-IS (eBay seller name and product name) for my M42-EOS adapters. They are dirt cheap and come from hong kong. For the Nikon one, I needed it fast so I got a no-brand generic for $15 locally. It also works.
Are you sure you have the camera set on Av or M mode? It probably won't give AF confirm on P mode. I shoot in Liveview mode anyways, where Magic Lamp has disabled it. The zoom box makes it simple to see if it is in focus.
So I'm about to pull the trigger on the NEX-6. Should I get the lens bundle on Amazon, or just the body?
And anyone want to talk me out of getting it?
Yeah, I contacted Big yesterday and he informed me none of the chips work on T4i's. someone needs to develop new chipsets. As far as my lenses, I came across a Super Tak 50mm 1.4 for about $20 and have since picked up a Helios 44m-2, a Super Tak 28mm 3.5 complete with hood and cases, and a Super Tak 135mm 3.5 complete. These Tak lenses are beautifully built and a joy to use. I think I'm going to try to get them all (except for the rarer ones)
between $200 and $1200. I don't mind paying more as long as it's worth it. If I've to pay $500 for something that's marginally better, then it's not worth it IMHO.
between $200 and $1200. I don't mind paying more as long as it's worth it. If I've to pay $500 for something that's marginally better, then it's not worth it IMHO.
The takumars are so awesome. I currently have:
35mm 2.0
50mm 1.4 7 Super-Tak
50mm 1.4 SMC
55mm 2.0 (I have no reason to use this. Bought it thinking it was the 35!)
135mm 2.5
You have to see the 17mm. It is unreal. There is a small ring on the top that, when rotated, selects between THREE filters that are somehow built into the lens. And the thing is about the size of a 50mm. I've wanted one so bad since using it but $500 is crazy.
Also, steer clear of the 200mm 4. It isn't very good.
They are bother good deals. But NEX6 is much bigger.
Why don't you buy the cheaper one then. You don't seem to know what is a good size for you. Imposing an arbitrary 4 years limit serve no purpose. If you asked 2 weeks ago you could have gotten the Nex5n kit for 450.
What about the ones on the previous page?
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004HO59LK/?tag=neogaf0e-20
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0096W1OKS/?tag=neogaf0e-20
It boggles my mind that these two are $800 dollars appart. Is the difference really that noticeable? I probably won't buy a camera for another 4 years so I'd like something that I won't regret. I had a small, cheap olympus before and I took it on a trip, photos were really bad in low light, blurry, etc. It stopped working after visiting some hot springs. A year after that I went to Easter Island and said "fuck it" after my previous experience, not worth to carry something like that around when all the pictures look like crap. I still regret no getting pictures, lol.
From your story it sounds like you want quality, and in terms of photography, you get what you pay for.
If I were you, I would set my budget at the midway point of $600 - $800 and then I would not regret buying another cheap camera.
I would also learn to deal with putting my camera around my neck instead of my pocket. Getting a nice neck strap for a Nex-6 or Fuji X100 will cut down on the strain and be hardly noticeable.
If you are firm on pockets though, go with any of the recommendations tino or I listed.
Any good places to get one at good price? What's the max size?
Can you get them to automatically feed into iPhoto?
Right now my workflow is:
Shoot -> Remove SD card and insert into computer -> Drag all the photos I like into a folder -> Edit in Picasa -> Upload to Flickr
With the Eye-Fi, can I...
Shoot -> Edit photo on ipad with iphoto -> upload with flickit
Because the last one I bought just broke down easily and was not really that good. So I'm asking for advice to not make that same mistake again (unless that cheap olympus is actually good).
Regarding the size, all I know is that you typical SLR is way too big for me, ie. I don't want carry an additional bag for my camera. I just want to toss it in my backpack. I usually just travel very light. The 4 years limit was to make a point that I just wan't to buy it and not worry about it in a long time. Photography is not my hobby and I don't keep up with the new stuff, that doesn't mean I don't want or can't appreciate better pictures. Are referring to this kit? Nex5n
Thanks for the patience, as I said I really don't keep with this stuff and would like some advice. ie, the X will work better in Y situations and you can upgrade to Z later if you are more invested into photography.