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The Official Camera Equipment Megathread

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L

LegoDad

Member
So I'm looking at buying a DSLR, but it seems the cameras are in mid change from model to model.. But I need one ASAP.

I've been looking at the Canon T3i, Canon T4i, Nikon D5100, and Nikon D3200.

From what I've read the T3i and T4i are almost identical unless you get the 18-135 lens for improved video. Also the D3200 and D5100 are the same besides the more MP on D3200 per the same sensor as the D5100.

Is that how everyone else feels as well? Does any SLR do HDR on board instead of post processing?

If above is true, I guess it would be between T3i and the D3200 at this time. What do you guys feel is the better bang for the buck?

Thanks.
 
N

NathanMcMahon

Banned
caliblue15 said:
So I'm looking at buying a DSLR, but it seems the cameras are in mid change from model to model.. But I need one ASAP.

I've been looking at the Canon T3i, Canon T4i, Nikon D5100, and Nikon D3200.

From what I've read the T3i and T4i are almost identical unless you get the 18-135 lens for improved video. Also the D3200 and D5100 are the same besides the more MP on D3200 per the same sensor as the D5100.

Is that how everyone else feels as well? Does any SLR do HDR on board instead of post processing?

If above is true, I guess it would be between T3i and the D3200 at this time. What do you guys feel is the better bang for the buck?

Thanks.
Click to expand...

The T4i has a newer chipset than the T3i.
 
H

Herpes Reasons

Banned
you can do hdr photo and video with magic lantern on the t3i, and the cheaper t2i.
but you'll have to process them in post.

Canon T3i DLSR, 18-55mm Lens, 55-250mm lens, 75-300mm lens, Backpack for SLR, 16GB SD Class 10, and 2 UV Protection Filters for.... $665.. That's Brand New
Click to expand...
that's a good deal. do it.
 
M

Mahzkrieg

Banned
Those are terrible lenses don't do it!
Might as well just get a Powershot G12 if you want to sacrifice quality for walkaround functionality.

Get the body and one NICE lens to start.
Strapped for cash? Go for the 50mm 1.8
 
H

Herpes Reasons

Banned
Mahzkrieg said:
Those are terrible lenses don't do it!
Might as well just get a Powershot G12 if you want to sacrifice quality for walkaround functionality.

Get the body and one NICE lens to start.
Strapped for cash? Go for the 50mm 1.8
Click to expand...

he can always sell them on CL. that 70-300mm lens alone has a $350 value on the streets.
he can easily get $500 for all 3. i've sold all my kit lens with ease on CL.
 
L

LegoDad

Member
Mahzkrieg said:
Those are terrible lenses don't do it!
Might as well just get a Powershot G12 if you want to sacrifice quality for walkaround functionality.

Get the body and one NICE lens to start.
Strapped for cash? Go for the 50mm 1.8
Click to expand...

How is the 55-250mm IS Lens, terrible? The 75-300mm lens isn't great, and should only be used with a Tri-pod, since there is no IS. The 18-55 lens is the kit lens, nothing special.
 
L

Lumix

Member
Herpes Reasons said:
he can always sell them on CL. that 70-300mm lens alone has a $350 value on the streets.
he can easily get $500 for all 3. i've sold all my kit lens with ease on CL.
Click to expand...

I think the crappy EF 75-300 was the included lens, not the EF 70-300.

The 18-55 & 55-250 are decent for starting off. Especially to cover the macro, wide, telephoto range at a cheap price.
Just get the 50mm 1.8 to practice DOF, with the money from the 75-300. Or better yet, get the 40mm 2.8 pancake, which can be had for $150 at moment on Amazon.
 
M

Mahzkrieg

Banned
Do they really fetch that much when they are so cheap as a part of this bundle? Crazy.
Shocking that anybody would want them.

But yeah, sell them sell them sell them and get some decent glass.
 
L

LegoDad

Member
Mahzkrieg said:
Do they really fetch that much when they are so cheap as a part of this bundle? Crazy.
Shocking that anybody would want them.

But yeah, sell them sell them sell them and get some decent glass.
Click to expand...

The base model T3i w/ 18-55mm lens is $650.. I got everything for $665.. lol. Lenses are just cake, and can help the wife and I learn how to use a DSLR, then upgrade lenses.
 
J

JLateralus

Member
Ok, I feel like this is a stupid question, but does anyone have experience with FD->Sony E adapters, or just FD in general?

I bought a Vivitar Series 1 macro in FD mount. I can't seem to get the aperture to stop down at all... Is there some kind of trick? Every other vintage lens I've used just stops down when you turn the aperture ring.

I've been after this lens for a while and would hate for there to be something wrong with it...
 
H

Herpes Reasons

Banned
JLateralus said:
Ok, I feel like this is a stupid question, but does anyone have experience with FD->Sony E adapters, or just FD in general?

I bought a Vivitar Series 1 macro in FD mount. I can't seem to get the aperture to stop down at all... Is there some kind of trick? Every other vintage lens I've used just stops down when you turn the aperture ring.

I've been after this lens for a while and would hate for there to be something wrong with it...
Click to expand...

i just bought a vivitar series 1 kiron on m42 mount as well.

did you put the camera on manual model?
because you can't change the aperture if its on auto.
its the ring closest to the mount. there should be an "A" or "M"
if it still doesn't work, you probably bought a lens that has oily aperture blades.
around $50 to get the aperture blades cleaned.
 
J

JLateralus

Member
Herpes Reasons said:
i just bought a vivitar series 1 kiron on m42 mount as well.

did you put the camera on manual model?
because you can't change the aperture if its on auto.
its the ring closest to the mount. there should be an "A" or "M"
if it still doesn't work, you probably bought a lens that has oily aperture blades.
around $50 to get the aperture blades cleaned.
Click to expand...

I debated that Kiron, but I opted for the Series 1 90mm 2.5 Tokina.

Crap. Am indeed shooting in manual. Got the lens from eBay in "perfect working condition." It's otherwise immaculate, especially for a 35 year old lens. Guess I need to decide if I should return it or try to get some money back in order to get it working.

Is there some place you need to ship it off to for something like that or is it simple enough my local camera store might be able to do it?
 
B

BlueTsunami

there is joy in sucking dick
JLateralus said:
I debated that Kiron, but I opted for the Series 1 90mm 2.5 Tokina.

Crap. Am indeed shooting in manual. Got the lens from eBay in "perfect working condition." It's otherwise immaculate, especially for a 35 year old lens. Guess I need to decide if I should return it or try to get some money back in order to get it working.

Is there some place you need to ship it off to for something like that or is it simple enough my local camera store might be able to do it?
Click to expand...

I have a Canon FD lens and it threw me for a loop too. Apparently FD lenses can only be stopped down when attached to the camera (or, in this case attached to the adapter). You also have to make sure the aperture ring is out of 'A' mode if applicable. My Canon 50/1.8 FD's aperture ring can turn all the way past f/22? To a the letter 'A'.
 
T

tino

Banned
^^ Thats not true. If you let me play with the lens for 10 minutes, I can get the aperture control working. There is a 2 level push down on the aperture lever.

JLateralus said:
Ok, I feel like this is a stupid question, but does anyone have experience with FD->Sony E adapters, or just FD in general?

I bought a Vivitar Series 1 macro in FD mount. I can't seem to get the aperture to stop down at all... Is there some kind of trick? Every other vintage lens I've used just stops down when you turn the aperture ring.

I've been after this lens for a while and would hate for there to be something wrong with it...
Click to expand...

You have to lock it... twist the silver ring on the FD lens. FD has the most complicated locking mechanism in the world. I can not describe it in words. See if you can find a youtube video.

I had exactly the same problem. Once you put the adapter on, its a lot easier to get the aperture working.
 
BJK

BJK

Member
Anyone have experience with the Canon 135/f2L?

As someone who loves sports (& sports photography), the weakness in my current gear is motion blur. (Note the baseball in the photo below.)


IMG_1201 by bjkrautk, on Flickr

I've looked at the 70-200L lenses as aspirational, but the idea of an f/2 lens (that costs a fraction of the 70-200/2.8L IS) seems intriguing. The lens is described as great for indoor / evening sports, and the reviews on Amazon are great.


My largest concern is the range I'll be shooting from; I can't really tell from the reviews if they are shooting at a high school gym or a massive stadium (like that shot from the upper deck at Miller Park, taken at 300 mm with a T3i). My two criteria for a lens are fast-enough AF to catch a play as it happens (my 70-300 IS can take a few seconds to focus; means I have to pick my moments to try for anything other than the plate / pitchers mound).

What say you GAF? Is this the lens I should lust after?
 
X

Xdye7

Member
BJK said:
the weakness in my current gear is motion blur
Click to expand...

No it's not. 1/500, ISO 1000, f/7.1?

Shoot in Av, set your ISO to 1600 and your aperture wide open; you'll get a much faster shutter speed (less blur).

BJK said:
my 70-300 IS can take a few seconds to focus; means I have to pick my moments to try for anything other than the plate / pitchers mound.
Click to expand...

What focus mode are you using? If you're trying to follow the action, you'll definitely want to use AI servo.

Also, try back button focusing. It's probably explained in your camera manual and there are many articles online. It will obviously feel weird at first but stick with it and you'll see the benefits, especially for shooting sports.
 
F

Flo_Evans

Member
135mm is not going to be long enough for sports unless you can get on the field IMHO.

Xdye7 the problem with the 70-300 IS (if it is anything like nikons version) is that wide open at f/5.6 it is super soft at 300mm. You pretty much have to stop it down.

To stop a 90mph fastball he needs at least 1/2000 sec shutter speed, possibly more depending on the distance and focal length. Pushing the ISO high enough to get that speed will likely result in an unusable image with that body/lens.

For instance a 90mph fastball is traveling at 132 feet per second. At 1/132 the ball will have traveled 1 foot. Double the shutter speed and the ball travels 6 inches. Double again and it's three inches and so on. So at about 1/8000, the ball only travels 1/8 of an inch. That's pretty much completely frozen.
Click to expand...
 
Risible

Risible

Member
BJK said:
Anyone have experience with the Canon 135/f2L?

As someone who loves sports (& sports photography), the weakness in my current gear is motion blur. (Note the baseball in the photo below.)


IMG_1201 by bjkrautk, on Flickr

I've looked at the 70-200L lenses as aspirational, but the idea of an f/2 lens (that costs a fraction of the 70-200/2.8L IS) seems intriguing. The lens is described as great for indoor / evening sports, and the reviews on Amazon are great.


My largest concern is the range I'll be shooting from; I can't really tell from the reviews if they are shooting at a high school gym or a massive stadium (like that shot from the upper deck at Miller Park, taken at 300 mm with a T3i). My two criteria for a lens are fast-enough AF to catch a play as it happens (my 70-300 IS can take a few seconds to focus; means I have to pick my moments to try for anything other than the plate / pitchers mound).

What say you GAF? Is this the lens I should lust after?
Click to expand...

I can't speak to that lens, but I can speak to sports photography from an amateur perspective. I shoot at my kid's games.

Lens reach is going to be a huge issue generally. I have the Sigma 70-300mm f/4-5.6 for my Canon 40D. I can usually shoot right from the sidelines at most games.

You're hoping to get fairly close-up with your shots - generic groups of players make for very boring shots I've found. You want to get close on the action to have a worthwhile shot. With the 300mm (which is really around 450mm with the crop factor) I felt like I had barely enough zoom for what I wanted to do.

As for f-stop, naturally the f/4 is only good for outdoors. It was garbage indoors.

So the f/2 will be nice but I suspect you'll feel really limited with the 135mm reach.
 
L

Lumix

Member
BJK said:
Anyone have experience with the Canon 135/f2L?

As someone who loves sports (& sports photography), the weakness in my current gear is motion blur.

I've looked at the 70-200L lenses as aspirational, but the idea of an f/2 lens (that costs a fraction of the 70-200/2.8L IS) seems intriguing. The lens is described as great for indoor / evening sports, and the reviews on Amazon are great.


My largest concern is the range I'll be shooting from; I can't really tell from the reviews if they are shooting at a high school gym or a massive stadium (like that shot from the upper deck at Miller Park, taken at 300 mm with a T3i). My two criteria for a lens are fast-enough AF to catch a play as it happens (my 70-300 IS can take a few seconds to focus; means I have to pick my moments to try for anything other than the plate / pitchers mound).

What say you GAF? Is this the lens I should lust after?
Click to expand...

I think the 200mm f/2.8L would be a better choice (almost the same price as the 135L) for what you are doing, if you don't want to spring for any of 70-200mm f/2.8L lenses.

If you are lucky, you might find a used, non-IS version of the 70-200mm f/2.8 L for little bit more than the 135L or 200L.

Sigma's EX OS version of the 70-200mm f/2.8 would be a good third party candidate.
 
S

shinshoryuken

Member
After having the nokia pureview 808 for a week, here's my review:

Its a piece of crap!! I can't believe dpreview gave it a gold award.

OS is so garbage that constantly crashes. Social app integration is a joke.
There's a 3G bug that makes it reboot when you're in a low signal area..

as a camera I guess its decent, but the lack of image stabilizer on stills, makes it difficult to capture anything moving...over hyped!!

the only thing its kinda good for is for its rich audio recording that on stereo. Video recording is just decent, not great...plus there's a possibility that it will crash

here's an example from a concert I went to:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d3E82gSF074

I also brought my sony rx100, which I think is superior in everyway(maybe not audio)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nIYtGZsKFeQ
 
T

tino

Banned
Its a $300 camera bootstrap to a $50 dumb smartphone on it.

It's still worth it once it drop to half of what a RX100 cost. I would pay 200-250 for an used one.
 
J

JLateralus

Member
BlueTsunami said:
I have a Canon FD lens and it threw me for a loop too. Apparently FD lenses can only be stopped down when attached to the camera (or, in this case attached to the adapter). You also have to make sure the aperture ring is out of 'A' mode if applicable. My Canon 50/1.8 FD's aperture ring can turn all the way past f/22? To a the letter 'A'.
Click to expand...

tino said:
You have to lock it... twist the silver ring on the FD lens. FD has the most complicated locking mechanism in the world. I can not describe it in words. See if you can find a youtube video.

I had exactly the same problem. Once you put the adapter on, its a lot easier to get the aperture working.
Click to expand...

Thanks guys - I was able to get it working after playing around with it for a bit. Kind of a pain in the ass the first time, but not too bad once you get the hang of it.
 
McHuj

McHuj

Member
Need some advice.

I've been using a Nikon D50 for the last ~7 years with two Nikkor lenses: 18-70mm AF-S and 50mm/1.8 AF prime and SB400.

I'd like to upgrade my camera due to my budget (and likely upcoming holiday sales), I'm debating between a upgrading to a D5100 body (I know I'll have to get a replacement for 50mm) or switching to the Sony NEX-N5 which will also mean getting a new good prime lens.
 
N

nick nacc

Banned
Hey guys I'm looking to do some semi professional work and this Christmas my parents said get the best camera you can for around 600 bucks. I want to get a refurb so I can best the best camera possible for that price range. Any thoughts?
 
T

tino

Banned
nick nacc said:
Hey guys I'm looking to do some semi professional work and this Christmas my parents said get the best camera you can for around 600 bucks. I want to get a refurb so I can best the best camera possible for that price range. Any thoughts?
Click to expand...

Thats not a lot of money to work with. An used D300 and then find a few more hundred dollars for a used 17-50 f/2.8-4 type lens? You may be able to find a used body with a lens (like a 24-120).

What do you mean by semi professional work? And why do you take advise from your parents?
 
N

nick nacc

Banned
tino said:
Thats not a lot of money to work with. An used D300 and then find a few more hundred dollars for a used 17-50 f/2.8-4 type lens? You may be able to find a used body with a lens (like a 24-120).

What do you mean by semi professional work? And why do you take advise from your parents?
Click to expand...

Thanks for the reply. I have been doing engagements and weddings (even did a menu for a restaurant which was fun)for a couple of years now just borrowing lenses and cameras from from friends. Haha I am not taking advice from my parents they are offering that amount of money as a Christmas present. I am apoor graduate student.
 
T

tino

Banned
If you are actually get paid for your work, then I stand by my original recommendation.

I don't have cheap lens to recommend. Lens are not cheap.
 
T

tch

Member
I am interested in taking some landscape photography. I have a Sony a580 a 50mm 1.4 and the 18-250. I am just getting started. I assume it would be best to shoot as low a focal length as possible for landscapes? Or is it worth getting a new lens for this purpose?
 
F

Flo_Evans

Member
tch said:
I am interested in taking some landscape photography. I have a Sony a580 a 50mm 1.4 and the 18-250. I am just getting started. I assume it would be best to shoot as low a focal length as possible for landscapes? Or is it worth getting a new lens for this purpose?
Click to expand...

There isn't really a "best" focal length for landscapes. In general most people shoot landscapes with wide angle because the way it changes the relative size of objects to make things appear smaller/bigger or farther away/closer.

Check out this example http://photo.tutsplus.com/tutorials...ls/exploring-how-focal-length-affects-images/

With a wide angle lens you have more depth of field, meaning a larger area is in focus, and objects in the background are smaller and appear farther away.
 
T

tch

Member
Ok thanks that helps. What exactly qualifies a lens as wide-angle? The focal length or are there other qualities?
 
N

NathanMcMahon

Banned
I threw this up in the BST thread but thought someone here might want it:

Barely used Peak Design Capture Clip for DSLR'S. looking for $54 paypal gifted shipped.

photo3.jpg
 
A

aerts1js

Member
I'm new to this legacy lens thing but I'm thinking about getting the M42 Red T 1Q Carl Zeiss Jena Tessar 2.8/50mm for my NEX 5N. What sort of adapter do I need to make this happen? Also, where's a good place to snag one of these? (other than e-bay)
 
R

radios shipping overview

Member
aerts1js said:
I'm new to this legacy lens thing but I'm thinking about getting the M42 Red T 1Q Carl Zeiss Jena Tessar 2.8/50mm for my NEX 5N. What sort of adapter do I need to make this happen? Also, where's a good place to snag one of these? (other than e-bay)
Click to expand...

Rainbowimaging's shop on Amazon carries a couple of different cheap adapters:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003XY4ST4/?tag=neogaf0e-20

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003YBPRHI/?tag=neogaf0e-20

There are many others up there. Just search for M42 NEX.
 
BJK

BJK

Member
SnakeswithLasers said:
Where do you guys usually go for Black Friday camera equipment deals? I'm looking to get a flash and maybe some lenses for my Canon SLR this season.
Click to expand...

Black Friday isn't really that great for what I would call 'secondary' equipment. If you want to buy a camera, they can put the entry level items on doorbuster sale (e.g. the Canon T3 is a Black Friday staple). They can put the new cameras on sale, but for Canon that usually means a bundle with a case + telephoto zoom lens (either the 55-250 IS or the 75-300 no-IS). Lenses and Flashes don't seem to be the type of thing that draws someone to a storefront at 2am.


I bought my T3i last year shortly after Black Friday (body only, bought the 15-85 IS and 70-300 non-L IS separately) from Bestbuy.com. I got a decent-enough price, but I had been price checking a few sites for awhile before finally deciding to pull the trigger.

Amazon is decent about putting lenses on sale during the next few months; they just aren't nearly as showy about it. Put the item(s) you're interested in on your wish list and check the price day-to-day; you'll be surprised how much it can fluctuate.


And thank you to everyone who commented on my sports photography question; I need to do that more often, as you give great feedback.
 
S

SnakeswithLasers

Member
BJK said:
Black Friday isn't really that great for what I would call 'secondary' equipment. If you want to buy a camera, they can put the entry level items on doorbuster sale (e.g. the Canon T3 is a Black Friday staple). They can put the new cameras on sale, but for Canon that usually means a bundle with a case + telephoto zoom lens (either the 55-250 IS or the 75-300 no-IS). Lenses and Flashes don't seem to be the type of thing that draws someone to a storefront at 2am.


I bought my T3i last year shortly after Black Friday (body only, bought the 15-85 IS and 70-300 non-L IS separately) from Bestbuy.com. I got a decent-enough price, but I had been price checking a few sites for awhile before finally deciding to pull the trigger.

Amazon is decent about putting lenses on sale during the next few months; they just aren't nearly as showy about it. Put the item(s) you're interested in on your wish list and check the price day-to-day; you'll be surprised how much it can fluctuate.


And thank you to everyone who commented on my sports photography question; I need to do that more often, as you give great feedback.
Click to expand...
Thanks, not looking for a body though, as I have one. I'll throw some lenses in my wishlist and see what fluctuates. I was just hoping there was a go-to site for impulsive deals. =)
 
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