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The Official Camera Equipment Megathread
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He said he is about $500 in from scratch (controller, motors, radios, frame) it can carry about 1lb. I think he said? Go-Pro is no problem but a DSLR might be too much. It runs on a custom arduino board, currently he just has GPS on it, supposed to be able to set waypoints and a flight path for it to follow but we didn't get that working all that well.
Here is the frame and motors he bought: http://www.rc-drones.com/dji-330-ARF-kit.php
not sure where he got the flight controller and radios from.
We are still messing with the control board getting the flight and stuff smoothed out before attaching expensive cameras to it.
Test video we did today: https://vimeo.com/74144513 lol
Thanks.
Yes DSLR is too heavy. But if it actually carry 1lb the lightest wide angle solution is probably and EOS M + 11-22mm. Too bad there is no hack for the new EOS M firmware yet.
New gear is in!
After 4 years of using the high school's cameras, I finally have my own gear. Very excited! Camera is a Canon 60D, lens is a Sigma 17-70 f/2.8-4 DC Macro per recommendation of my former teacher.
Any suggestions on other things I need to pick up? I'm ordering a Tiffen UV filter and just a Canon 2400 gear bag as well.
After 4 years of using the high school's cameras, I finally have my own gear. Very excited! Camera is a Canon 60D, lens is a Sigma 17-70 f/2.8-4 DC Macro per recommendation of my former teacher.
Any suggestions on other things I need to pick up? I'm ordering a Tiffen UV filter and just a Canon 2400 gear bag as well.
zephervack
Member
Accross the chest strap, its amazing how much I take my camera out now that it doesnt murder my neck, get whatever you can afford from blackrapid or carry speed.
Ecto311
Member
Looking to get an NEX 5r - amazon has stopped listing them but has one on their warehouse deals site for a decent price. Has anyone got camera stuff form the warehouse side of it? It is about $100 cheaper to go that route right now and the price difference isn't a big deal if the camera could potentially be shit.
Also found it on adorama but dont know anything about the company. BHphotovideo also has it for a price I am happy with but again dont know shit about them.
Thanks for any info on a good route to get this camera.
Also found it on adorama but dont know anything about the company. BHphotovideo also has it for a price I am happy with but again dont know shit about them.
Thanks for any info on a good route to get this camera.
Ecto311
Member
Been digging around and still having a hard time finding this camera at the price I found earlier in the week. Also considering the Nikon D3100 - anyone have a comparison or preference? Both seem to do really well for the price range and the only difference I found from comparing them was the size and flip out screen.
Haven't tried a chest strap, but I like a hand strap (use a canon E2). If I'm walking around and expect to be shooting regularly, it's easy to just leave it hanging from my hand,held in place by my fingers.
What will you be shooting? Outdoors, indoors, candid, posed, people, sports etc? Tbh if you've been using school gear you should have an idea of what you find useful in terms of equipment.
I recently bought a cheap home lighting setup. It's something I've wanted to do for a while but never got round to it. Just a light stand, umbrella, cheap yongnuo flash and radio triggers. Surprisingly affordable. Currently reading through stobist 101
I have the last generation of that lens. I have it on my camera 90% time. Great choice.
I recommend looking for different camera strap. I use a Joby Ultrafit Sling Strap. Goes around your chest and can be easily removed when you don't want it.
As for the camera bag, it's a good start but I can guarantee that you will never find the perfect one. I have two backpacks and one messenger bag. I'm also looking buying another one. LOL.
Fonz72
Member
Hey photoGAF, just got my first "real" camera a Panasonic DMC-G5KK from Amazon for $359. Did I do OK?
Heading to the Dominican Republic for vacation and I'm tired of cell phone pictures. I have zero experience with photography, last camera I bought was a point and shoot 4MP Olympus in 2005.
Heading to the Dominican Republic for vacation and I'm tired of cell phone pictures. I have zero experience with photography, last camera I bought was a point and shoot 4MP Olympus in 2005.
If you want a good lens in the m4/3 system with good size/weight/reach compromise check out the new Panasonic 14-140mm.
And that costs as much as your camera did
It is a great lens, I lusted after it for quite a while
And that costs as much as your camera did
It is a great lens, I lusted after it for quite a while
You should always spend more money on your lenses than your body(s).
Ecto311
Member
I had the j2 from amazon. I really liked it as far as what it did. I just swapped it for a canon EOS M and the NEX-3n from amazon but still liked the j2 more. The video is really crisp and fast as hell focus on that cam for both video and pictures. It is only 10mp but I came from a D40 and it was the same if not better pictures from a very small camera. Here is a sample picture that I dont think I could have gotten from the D40.
Now I am a moron when it comes to camera settings but it was so easy to get these shots and never had anything like this from the D40. I was really impressed that her face was in focus and sharp but the light sticks had the blur to them. i think I was using flash for this with the night setting not sure.
AlteredBeast
Fork 'em, Sparky!
Yeah, your flash was definitely delayed due to a night + flash setting (or a slow flash setting, as in Olympus cameras). You could have done it with a D40, but obviously newer cameras do things better.
I have a Canon D600 (T3i) and am in need of two things:
-an excellent macro lens with great image quality. (on the cheap!)
- a good telephoto (something sharp even at maximum length)
Not looking to spend a boatload on either, but I want good IQ
I have a Canon D600 (T3i) and am in need of two things:
-an excellent macro lens with great image quality. (on the cheap!)
- a good telephoto (something sharp even at maximum length)
Not looking to spend a boatload on either, but I want good IQ
phisheep
NeoGAF's Chief Barrister
For macro, I have the canon 100mm L macro. That's not cheap but it is good. There seems to be a ready used market for the non-L (not stabilised, which won't matter if you are on a tripod) version. I've also had excellent results doing macro on the cheap with just the 50mm f/1.8 on a stack of Kenco extension tubes - that's a good placeto start without spending too much.
You're a bit vague on the telephoto, I guess you're after a telephoto zoom. Hard to advise without knowing how long you want to go, but I've had good times with the EF-S 55-250 which is a sane starting place except it tends to make you greedy for focal length and put you off the otherwise excellent stuff around in the 70-200 range. Can you clarify your needs at all?
I'd recommend the canon 70-300 IS. Liked mine a lot when I had it, shot some nice motor sports - focuses fast and is nice and sharp. Although the 50mm 1.8 is famous as the 'nifty fifty', the 70-300 is sometimes referred to as the 'nifty 300'. Not as catchy, but it mans it is one of the hidden gems of the canon lineup
I found it difficult to go away from that without spending a ton of money. I bought a 70-200 f4L IS which was fantastically sharp but sometimes not long enough, so then I bought a 100-400L IS which was perfect for longer stuff but heavy and slow for other things.
For macro, canon 60mm 2.8 - works well as a portrait lens too and is very sharp. Great for static macro, but you don't get much working distance, so if you want to shoot anything like insects you might want something longer like the canon 100mm macro (non-L)
I found it difficult to go away from that without spending a ton of money. I bought a 70-200 f4L IS which was fantastically sharp but sometimes not long enough, so then I bought a 100-400L IS which was perfect for longer stuff but heavy and slow for other things.
For macro, canon 60mm 2.8 - works well as a portrait lens too and is very sharp. Great for static macro, but you don't get much working distance, so if you want to shoot anything like insects you might want something longer like the canon 100mm macro (non-L)
Thanks for the insight mate. How do you think it would stack up against the J1? She says she can get that one for real cheap.I had the j2 from amazon. I really liked it as far as what it did. I just swapped it for a canon EOS M and the NEX-3n from amazon but still liked the j2 more. The video is really crisp and fast as hell focus on that cam for both video and pictures. It is only 10mp but I came from a D40 and it was the same if not better pictures from a very small camera. Here is a sample picture that I dont think I could have gotten from the D40.
Now I am a moron when it comes to camera settings but it was so easy to get these shots and never had anything like this from the D40. I was really impressed that her face was in focus and sharp but the light sticks had the blur to them. i think I was using flash for this with the night setting not sure.
reggieandTFE
Member
The micro 4/3 system is also great at putting together a budget lens kit that will serve most needs. If you're looking o stay as cheap possible buy the 14mm pancake off a reseller on EBay for $160, the sigma 30mm f/2.8 at $200 for a long normal walk around lens and get the panasonic or Olympus 40-150mm for $150-200. Assuming you got te kit lens you'll have a lens kit that covers 28-300mm with some flexibility on size and some super sharp primes when you need them.
If you're going mid or high end I'd give a different set of recommendations. For example, you could put all your money in one of the fantastic fast primes: 20mm for $350, 25mm for $560, or the 45mm for $399.
Pagusas
Elden Member
I had the j2 from amazon. I really liked it as far as what it did. I just swapped it for a canon EOS M and the NEX-3n from amazon but still liked the j2 more. The video is really crisp and fast as hell focus on that cam for both video and pictures. It is only 10mp but I came from a D40 and it was the same if not better pictures from a very small camera. Here is a sample picture that I dont think I could have gotten from the D40.
Now I am a moron when it comes to camera settings but it was so easy to get these shots and never had anything like this from the D40. I was really impressed that her face was in focus and sharp but the light sticks had the blur to them. i think I was using flash for this with the night setting not sure.
Do you have the original files uploaded somewhere? Take a look in the meta data and see what setting the camera was operating at, then you can reproduce those with other cameras if you like.
Raynox DCR-250 is a pretty good alternative esp if you already have a decently sharp lens.
So, my Dads after a Bridge Camera, something light to carry as he's not really interested in a multi lense solution. I know my DSLR's but not much about these current crop of halfway house cameras, has anyone any experience of them? He's currently looking at a Nikon P520 so that gives you an idea of budget. Many thanks for the help!
It's probably very weak flash (to freeze the portrait) and long exposure (like 1/10-1/2s) in very dark scene. These photos show Nikon 1's focus streight in very low light.
Although I wouldn't recommend Nikon 1 to anyone unless its a blow down 2 lens deal. Nikon may drop this system soon.
Instigator
Banned
lol @ dpreview exploding with their E-M1 preview.
It's just an E-M5 update and people are getting insecure or bitter.
It's just an E-M5 update and people are getting insecure or bitter.
Well its the 4/3rds option that many die-hard Olympus fans were waiting for since they will autofocus with their old 4/3rds lenses.
Also the new sensor seems pretty good.
I use that lens a ton on my K-r, great choice for a first lens. Enjoy!
Holy shit at the Pentax argument broke out in the preview comments.
This camera touches some old wounds. M43 haters and 4/3 glass holders coming out of woodwork.
You got to give Olympus credit for coming out with a high end body after all the financial troubles. Still, I hate how Transformer this body look.
NathanMcMahon
Banned
It definitely has retro look but maybe too retro and not stylized like Fuji's offerings. I little too blocky really.
Instigator
Banned
Fujis (mirrorless) are bricks.
I wouldn't call EM1's style retro at all. You need to have a shutter dial to be remotely retro. It doesn't look like any old camera, except maybe the F4.
StopMakingSense
Member
Flo, how is that 20mm 2.8 AI-S working for you?
I need to find a place in Los Angeles to play around with a GX7 so I can see if I want it to be my next body.
Getting tired of the Pany GF2 and its limitations, in terms of IQ it was a major downstep from my Nikon D90 but I love the portability of the form factor and I think I shall stick with M4/3rds for now.
Getting tired of the Pany GF2 and its limitations, in terms of IQ it was a major downstep from my Nikon D90 but I love the portability of the form factor and I think I shall stick with M4/3rds for now.
I really like it. Although I might sell it on for a 35mm 1.4 ai when my 17-35 gets fixed.
It really shines on the d600 but oddly I ran a roll of fuji 400H through my film camera and got kinda meh results. Could of been an off day or really bad 1 hour photo processing IDK.
I'm getting a 35mm 1.4 pre ai, ai or ai-s.
Is there any difference in the optics or anything? I wont be metering with the lens. I have a Gossen.
Not sure. I usually go with ai-s as those are the newest versions and are generally better. Sometimes the ai version will have slightly more accurate but slower focusing, I haven't researched that lens to know if there are any differences. I do know the older versions have a slightly different barrel, but it may just be cosmetic.
I generally avoid pre-ai unless they are converted, even then I don't think the anti-reflective coating was as good (or maybe it has all worn off) on those lenses.
Good point here. I'll probably go with a used 35mm 1.4 ai-s off ebay. I've gotten good deals and clean glass off ebay when it comes to old manual lenses.
I like to read this site http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/companies/nikon/nikkoresources/35mmnikkor/index.htm when researching old nikon glass. The navigation is early geocities and the writing style makes me think the owners first language is not english but lots of good historical info.
look at this gem:
The 1st version is radioactive! wtf...
I also like Ken Rockwell's site for lens info. He is a colossal troll with most of his articles but he has a lot of specs and good lens info. He points out the AI-s 35mm 1.4 has 9 aperture blades vs the older one with 7.
So yeah. AI-s version!
Thanks for sharing. I currently read a lot of ken's stuff. Some of the stuff he says is a little crazy though and I feel like he doesn't approach all his reviews from an artist perspective which is how I shoot.
Cheap: Tiffen, Good: Hoya or B+W. Don't buy other cheap brands.
NathanMcMahon
Banned
Third party battery grips are fine if you want to save some money and if you really want to get a UV filter ( I don't suggest it) go B+W. They are made of brass and have the best coatings.
There are good quality point and shoots to look at. Canon G series, Fuji X20, and Panasonic LX7 are all really good cameras. I had and really liked the LX7 but it got stolen out of a checked bag. In looking for a replacement I still think its the best combination of price, size, and photo quality.
NathanMcMahon
Banned
I'm just in the camp that thinks it's superfluous. Sensors have all the protection you need from UV rays as a design included and putting another layer of glass in front of your well-engineered lens doesn't seem worthwhile. Though now-a-days, if you get a really high quality filter, ie expensive, the coatings are really good and the glass won't really affect your image quality. I generally rely on my lens hood to protect the lens as well so I don't use them for protection either. Really, you could go either way. Soe photographers use them and some don't, so it's really up to you.
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