For $188/ $189, you can grab the Canon Powershot SX280 HS. HD video and solid optical zoom.
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The Official Camera Equipment Megathread
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For $188/ $189, you can grab the Canon Powershot SX280 HS. HD video and solid optical zoom.
DownLikeBCPowder
Member
Then why for asking for a camcorder in that range do I get response like "get a DSLR for 500+ USD"?
Sorry, didn't saw the link you posted (was on mobile) and so didn't know your range when i first replied. But if you have no interest in photos at all then a camcorder is way better fit. I have no clue what's good or bad for camcorders.
You can wait forever if you want, there will always be something better just around the corner.
X100 is great, X100s is better. XT1 will be amazing if you need to change lenses. All those cameras are capable of amazing photos you can make a living out of. Get whichever one fits your current photography needs.
I personally am getting the X-T1 after seeing that viewfinder in person. <3
Meus Renaissance
Member
How does it perform wide open? I've only had a few minutes with it and couldn't form an opinion on it. I've been very impressed with the Sigma 30mm 1.4 on the 600d, so how might it compare to that. I'm a little perplexed that Fuji discourage anything wider than F4.0 for "close-ups". I'm not interested in macro photography, but I do like taking portraits with a lot of bokeh
John Kowalski
Banned
I don't think it performs badly, it just falls a bit below the fantastically well performing slower apertures. You can read all about that everywhere else in the internet if you want, it's not really something i know a whole lot about other than what i've said already. You won't get that much bowkah with 23mm portraiture tho, so you may want to look into equivalent cameras that have more adequate focal lengths for bowkah portraits.
35mm equivalent is one of the best all-around focal lengths for a fixed lens to have, but the X100(S) is not what you want for a portraiture emphasis. It's best for street photography, travel photography, and multi-purpose use.
F/2 at APS-C sensor size only gives you depth of field isolation very close up, and that close with a wide angle lens is going to cause distortion of facial features.
Note the below:
This is about as close as you want to get with the X100/S lens to prevent feature distortion. As you can see it's still pleasant and there's still some bokeh, but not extreme subject isolation:
F/2 at APS-C sensor size only gives you depth of field isolation very close up, and that close with a wide angle lens is going to cause distortion of facial features.
Note the below:
This is about as close as you want to get with the X100/S lens to prevent feature distortion. As you can see it's still pleasant and there's still some bokeh, but not extreme subject isolation:
Not really, no. The X100(S) is in a unique market segment. The closest competitor is the Sony RX-1, also a fixed lens 35mm equivalent but in full frame instead of APS-C, at more than twice the price, and a little less compact a form factor. The RX-1 also functions more like a very expensive point and shoot than an enthusiast/pro camera and there's no viewfinder (expensive optional add-on), as opposed to the X100(S)'s intuitive manual control dials, good auto ISO mode with adjustable minimum shutter speed, and really neat hybrid viewfinder.
The X100S is arguably the best all-around travel camera. There are higher performance cameras and lenses optically, but you're usually adding non-trivial bulk to your day pack. There are smaller cameras, but you're sacrificing a non-trivial amount of picture quality. I've brought it and the X100 all around the world now and they have performed fantastically without weighing me down.
Lack of zoom is rarely a problem. If the fixed lens is too limiting, the Fuji XF interchangeable lens cameras (XE-1, XE-2, or the new X-T1) or the excellent new full frame Sony A7(R) are the way to go.
Thanks! I am looking for a camera like this... Something in between my 5S and my EOS 1ds that takes really nice pictures.
Ricoh GR can be an alternative just depends on what suits you better.
reggieandTFE
Member
Any number of micro 4/3 cameras could fulfill a similar feature set in even smaller bodies while offering others ( lens or body-based image stabilization, better video quality, interchangeable lenses, etc.)
Check out the Panasonic GM1 or GX7 or the Olympus EPM2 or EP5. You can pair them with any of the small micro 4/3 primes or collapsible zooms: panasonic 14mm, 20mm, 12-32mm or olympus 17mm, 14-42mm or 45 mm.
Coolpix A or EOS M, both aren't that great and have flaws. best to go with the x100s.
Does it still have warranty?
if yes then that's a steal.
shutter replacement is pretty much cheap anyways.
rykomatsu
Member
It's out of warranty, about 3-4 yrs old from what I've been told
Would you recommend the X100S over the X100 at twice the price of a X100S vs a used X100? I don't want to wait for the X200 if it will take until the end of the year but I don't want to spend more money than I need to now if I will upgrade later on.
A used X100 for ~$500 is a hell of a value proposition. It's been improved tremendously by firmware updates and has pretty good AF speed now. Can't really go wrong there for the price.
Totally. That should have another 100k actuations in it. I think that part as a repair is something like $200-300.
So someone is offering me a used x100 with sticky aperture blades for $500 he says it doesn't affect shooting below f8 which isn't a big deal to me but is it worth it?
Absolutely don't buy an X100 with sticky aperture blades, no. You can get a properly functioning one for that price anyway. Not being able to shoot below f8 is a huge deal and will kill the great low light capabilities of the camera and any ability for DoF isolation.
Oops I meant above f8 not below but it seems to cost $140 to fix it so unless he's willing to much lower I'll pass then.
I'd wonder what's wrong with it ... that price is a crazy steal.
John Kowalski
Banned
Fairly sure you can find it in places like Adorama or B&H for less and without the blades issue, i'd suggest either haggling it way down or simply buying another one.
Have you considered the 40mm 2.8 Pancake? It's closer to a 35, and a MUCH nicer lens than the 50mm 1.8.
yep but i can only get it by the double of the price about 220 and the 50mm for 108
theepicoftyler
Member
I've had my eye on a Sony NEX 5r (I like the idea of using my phone as a remote) for awhile and was curious what you guys think would be a good eBay price for a used one? I've been seeing them going for $350-$400 and just missed one yesterday that went for $290. Should I hold out for that lower price or should I not feel too bad going $350+?
Personally, I would just go with the FOV that works better for you instead of worrying about how fast it is, unless fast is what you need course. But then again, I really don't find 50mm that useful on crop sensor.
$350-$400 for the new/refurbished body with kit lens is a solid price but I would wait for another deal to come around. That's how I was able to pick up a super rare pink NEX-3N for my picky girlfriend for roughly $370.
theepicoftyler
Member
Thanks.
Has anyone here used an NEX-5R and an NEX-5N? Is there a big difference with them by any chance? I know that the 5R has wifi and stuff, but I think I could live without using my phone as a remote. I might be fine spending a little less money.
Haven't used both, but the 5n seems more catered to a point and shoot mentality compared to the 5r. I have and use a 5r and the added control dial on the top does a huge difference for quick and easy settings changes, especially in manual mode.
Also WiFi is great for quick sharing of photos on the go, but it's probably something most can live without.
Other than that I think they're pretty much the same.
theepicoftyler
Member
So if I'm looking at a NEX-5 as a step beyond point and shoot, I'm probably better off with a 5r? If I'm understanding you correctly, that would translate to more feature rich cameras if I go that route in the future.
Well from what I've gathered, the 5R offers more hardware controls with the addition of the control wheel on top as well as an Fn button. I feel that when shooting in Manual they can be a godsend, because there's less menu diving going on.
Either one would be a step up from regular point and shoots, but the 5R has more of the hardware controls going on.
Hello guys. This is my first post on this thread, hoping there will be many more.
Anyway, I got a 600D a little over a month ago with the 18-55 MM (non IS) kit lens + 70-300 MM (non IS) kit lens. I gotta say the tele lens is awful, especially at 300 MM. Cero crispness, chromatic aberrations everywhere. I have been trying to shoot some birds with it, focused good on the bird, but with chromatic aberration and zero crispness, all my shots are just ruined. This is getting frustrating because I feel my equipment is now holding me back. So, I've decided I am getting rid of the tele lens, and I could possibly also get rid of the 18-55. I have been eying the 18-135 IS STM lens, but there isn't many reviews out for it, so I'm assuming this lense isn't very popular? What do you guys think.
Anyway, I got a 600D a little over a month ago with the 18-55 MM (non IS) kit lens + 70-300 MM (non IS) kit lens. I gotta say the tele lens is awful, especially at 300 MM. Cero crispness, chromatic aberrations everywhere. I have been trying to shoot some birds with it, focused good on the bird, but with chromatic aberration and zero crispness, all my shots are just ruined. This is getting frustrating because I feel my equipment is now holding me back. So, I've decided I am getting rid of the tele lens, and I could possibly also get rid of the 18-55. I have been eying the 18-135 IS STM lens, but there isn't many reviews out for it, so I'm assuming this lense isn't very popular? What do you guys think.
Get a prime.
Prime tele or the 55-250 STM.
Thanks for the replies.
Could you guys point me to the right direction as far as tele primes goes?
I have that 50 for my 60D, while its nice its definitely a cheap lens. I don't mind the build so much but the poor focus ring is annoying. I want to get a 35 or wider to help balance the 1.6 crop factor thus making "x" lens have a 50mm focal length.
Have you considering getting an old FD canon lens with an adapter? I have seen loads go on eBay UK for £20-50 many different focal lengths - they will obviously all be manual focus only and you'll have to change the f-stop on the lens itself. My friend has a 50mm nikon lens with a EF adapter and its very nice glass, same 1.8 stop as the Canon II.
Edit: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Canon-FD5...=UK_Lenses_Filters_Lenses&hash=item1e876443dd + £15 FD to EF adaptor = done!
Hi Gaf, Apologies in advance for the question that's probably been asked a million times...
I'm looking for a good, relatively cheap beginner DSLR. I'm a complete noob, having only every used compact cameras or phone cameras in my life. However it's always been something i'd love to get into. I do quite a bit of walking and visiting nice places, and i'm going to be traveling Europe this year and hopefully the US next.
I've googled it and whatnot, but i'd prefer the opinions of some of you
I'm looking for a good, relatively cheap beginner DSLR. I'm a complete noob, having only every used compact cameras or phone cameras in my life. However it's always been something i'd love to get into. I do quite a bit of walking and visiting nice places, and i'm going to be traveling Europe this year and hopefully the US next.
I've googled it and whatnot, but i'd prefer the opinions of some of you
Art Teitlebaum
Member
What mrorange said plus Sony A58 and Pentax K-500. Try them out and choose the one you personally like most. I'd say that there aren't any bad cameras out there. Everything is just a matter of taste.
Short overview: http://photo.net/equipment/entry-level-dslrs/
Was deciding what to do with my Fuji XF system, looked through the lenses on discount, looked through the upcoming lenses, got caught up in gear whoring, felt full frame envy...
Ended up ordering a Sony A7 w/ Zeiss 55mm f1.8 (beautiful and 3d-like rendering and the second sharpest lens ever tested by dxomark behind the $4000 Zeiss Otus), taking advantage of the current bundle deal.
Looking through for some legacy manual focus lenses that work well on the A7 to round things out. Ordered the Zeiss Contax G 90mm f2.8 for tele/portraiture, and might get a Zeiss Contax/Yashica 28mm f2.8 or something to finish up the kit. Manual focus w/ focus peaking is a breeze, and there's something extra fun about the notion of using legacy manual focus glass.
Will probably sell all of my Fuji gear assuming I can stand the ergonomics. *tear*
Ended up ordering a Sony A7 w/ Zeiss 55mm f1.8 (beautiful and 3d-like rendering and the second sharpest lens ever tested by dxomark behind the $4000 Zeiss Otus), taking advantage of the current bundle deal.
Looking through for some legacy manual focus lenses that work well on the A7 to round things out. Ordered the Zeiss Contax G 90mm f2.8 for tele/portraiture, and might get a Zeiss Contax/Yashica 28mm f2.8 or something to finish up the kit. Manual focus w/ focus peaking is a breeze, and there's something extra fun about the notion of using legacy manual focus glass.
Will probably sell all of my Fuji gear assuming I can stand the ergonomics. *tear*
I was thinking about a Sony A7 too but the more I thought about it I just ended up with a used X100 on ebay for ~$520+shipping because I want something that's portable. Maybe in the future if I feel the need to go full frame I'd look into an A7.
For some situations, the 85mm 1.8 can be an effective short range tele for crop sensor cameras. Anything longer gets into the L range, this is where your 100mm f2.8 and 135mm f2L (great Lens) are.
FD mount prime telephotos are another option but your results may vary.
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