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[Ty4on]

I'm not a big time "gear acquisition" person but I've been working on a list of cameras I want to try. What's on your list?

The same film cameras plus a TLR (probably a Rolleiflex), OM-2/OM-2SP/OM-4 and the Minolta 7 (possibly 9 as well).

There's a Mamiya 6 for sale close to me with the 50, 75 and 150 lenses. It's 2400$ though which is way more than I can afford. It grabbed my attention because there are rarely film cameras on sale here.

 

[FStop7]

The same film cameras plus a TLR (probably a Rolleiflex), OM-2/OM-2SP/OM-4 and the Minolta 7 (possibly 9 as well).

There's a Mamiya 6 for sale close to me with the 50, 75 and 150 lenses. It's 2400$ though which is way more than I can afford. It grabbed my attention because there are rarely film cameras on sale here.

That's one pro (or con, depending on how you look at it) about living in Los Angeles with its historical ties to film, etc. Literally everything on my list can currently be found on Craigslist. It's great if you're ready to buy something but it's also a really bad temptation to go crazy on a bunch of stuff you don't really need.

 

[StopMakingSense]

That's one pro (or con, depending on how you look at it) about living in Los Angeles with its historical ties to film, etc. Literally everything on my list can currently be found on Craigslist. It's great if you're ready to buy something but it's also a really bad temptation to go crazy on a bunch of stuff you don't really need.

Oh god yes.

 

[Ty4on]

Oh god yes.

It really sucks as well that there isn't a perfect system.

I've looked at a bunch of 35mm systems and Canon EF makes a lot of sense, but is kinda boring. Olympus OM-2 is much more interesting, but lenses are usually quite expensive and rare. Minolta is in the middle with the 7 being interesting (very advanced for its time), but had a fault with the lever stopping down the aperture which would brick the shutter.

 

[dmshaposv]

Currrently on my acquisition list:

Yes. The autofocus sucks, I've tried it. But this is the most affordable Leica M style camera body with a GODLY lens and sensor. It has the best feel in the hand (all metal) and image quality that destroy the APS-C faux rangefinder cameras.

Every shot is a keeper. I actually like the fact that it has no evf (although I got the sony one) and any grip to keep it super compact with possibly the best zeiss lens ever. The pics it creates are something else.

 

[TerryLee81]

Currrently on my acquisition list:

Yes. The autofocus sucks, I've tried it. But this is the most affordable Leica M style camera body with a GODLY lens and sensor. It has the best feel in the hand (all metal) and image quality that destroy the APS-C faux rangefinder cameras.

Every shot is a keeper. I actually like the fact that it has no evf (although I got the sony one) and any grip to keep it super compact with possibly the best zeiss lens ever. The pics it creates are something else.

I'm alwyas looking at used RX1 cameras, even though I can't afford one at the moment. Wonder if they will release a successor.

But right now, if I had the money, I would buy a Leica Q. God damn that's a nice camera.

 

[sechsterangriff]

I'm alwyas looking at used RX1 cameras, even though I can't afford one at the moment. Wonder if they will release a successor.

But right now, if I had the money, I would buy a Leica Q. God damn that's a nice camera.

There've been a bunch of rumors about a new model using Sony's new curved sensor to be announced this year, but nothing really concrete..

 

[Tendo]

Well like a dummy I made this thread - http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1102989 instead of remembering the mega thread.

Anyway, the short of it is I'm looking to upgrade my aging D40 for something a bit more modern and based on what I'm ready here I am really liking the Sony A6000 I've seen recommended a few times. Any ideas if that will fit what I'm looking for or any other suggestions?

 

[Art Teitlebaum]

Well like a dummy I made this thread - http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1102989 instead of remembering the mega thread.

Anyway, the short of it is I'm looking to upgrade my aging D40 for something a bit more modern and based on what I'm ready here I am really liking the Sony A6000 I've seen recommended a few times. Any ideas if that will fit what I'm looking for or any other suggestions?

Do you have any Nikon gear that you'd like to continue to use? Then it might be an option to upgrade to a newer body. (D7200/D610)
If you want to try the marvelous world of mirrorless ILC, the A6000 is a very respectable device. Compact and capable.
Alternatives: Fuji X-T or X-E series. Olympus E-M series (M4/3s, so smaller sensor and smaller lenses.) Samsung NX series.

You have to try them in a shop to see what you really like (and need!). Specs are only one half of the truth.

 

[MRORANGE]

Ordered a a6000 for my sister's birthday, hopefully she likes it as she always wanted a decent camera but thinks DSLR's are bulky. Sony are doing a rebate program at the moment so it cost me £395 altogether.

 

[Tendo]

Do you have any Nikon gear that you'd like to continue to use? Then it might be an option to upgrade to a newer body. (D7200/D610)
If you want to try the marvelous world of mirrorless ILC, the A6000 is a very respectable device. Compact and capable.
Alternatives: Fuji X-T or X-E series. Olympus E-M series (M4/3s, so smaller sensor and smaller lenses.) Samsung NX series.

You have to try them in a shop to see what you really like (and need!). Specs are only one half of the truth.

Just a kit and a partially busted zoom. Nothing I feel like holding on to. I'd like to try and sell the combo to put towards the A6000. The deal Best Buy has right now really has my interest so I might go try that out tonight. I do a lot of bird photography and my 200mm nikon lens has done me well. Until the dog found it.

 

[Art Teitlebaum]

Just a kit and a partially busted zoom. Nothing I feel like holding on to. I'd like to try and sell the combo to put towards the A6000. The deal Best Buy has right now really has my interest so I might go try that out tonight. I do a lot of bird photography and my 200mm nikon lens has done me well. Until the dog found it.

The only minor problem of Sony's E-mount system might be the range of lenses. I don't know shit about the choices you have for a telephoto lens over there. Maybe some other user here has some expertise in this. Anyway you can always adapt good vintage glass with the focus peaking feature.

 

[Tendo]

The only minor problem of Sony's E-mount system might be the range of lenses. I don't know shit about the choices you have for a telephoto lens over there. Maybe some other user here has some expertise in this. Anyway you can always adapt good vintage glass with the focus peaking feature.

I've done well enough with a cheap 200mm lens. It seems the Sony zoom offered in the combo pack is comparable if not better than what I have now.


All I'd really want is that cheap zoom and eventually that nice prime and I'm set.

 

[theepicoftyler]

Someone is selling a Sony A7 body on Craigslist that is allegedly brand new for $550 (Sony couldn't fix his old body through warranty so they sent him a new one instead). Even if I'm stuck using my e-mount lenses for awhile before I can pony up for some FE glass, is that a worthwhile deal?

 

[MRORANGE]

Someone is selling a Sony A7 body on Craigslist that is allegedly brand new for $550 (Sony couldn't fix his old body through warranty so they sent him a new one instead). Even if I'm stuck using my e-mount lenses for awhile before I can pony up for some FE glass, is that a worthwhile deal?

If it's legit it's not a bad deal at all.

 

[theepicoftyler]

If it's legit it's not a bad deal at all.

I am so incredibly tempted... I've been thinking NEX 6 or a6000, but maybe I'll just make the full leap instead of the tiny step.

 

[webkatt]

So my job gave me a canon rebel t4i eos 650d with a ef-s 18-135mm is stm lens. I need to learn how to use this thing, what is the best way of going about this?

I'm only used point and clicks and camera phones.

Spoiler

I'm literally just reading numbers off the box and manual

 

[Herbs]

So my job gave me a canon rebel t4i eos 650d with a ef-s 18-135mm is stm lens. I need to learn how to use this thing, what is the best way of going about this?

I'm only used point and clicks and camera phones.

Spoiler

I'm literally just reading numbers off the box and manual

Get the book Understanding Exposure.

 

[sfedai0]

So my job gave me a canon rebel t4i eos 650d with a ef-s 18-135mm is stm lens. I need to learn how to use this thing, what is the best way of going about this?

I'm only used point and clicks and camera phones.

Spoiler

I'm literally just reading numbers off the box and manual

What exactly are you tasked with shooting? Does your job expect you to have some photog skills?

 

[webkatt]

What exactly are you tasked with shooting? Does your job expect you to have some photog skills?

It's nothing major. It's just some promo shots of potential retail display units. It's nothing crazy like action shots. The most intensive part probably be capturing the various LED lighting on the unit.

The chose me because I'm in L.A. near the prototypes.

 

[mrklaw]

Ordered a a6000 for my sister's birthday, hopefully she likes it as she always wanted a decent camera but thinks DSLR's are bulky. Sony are doing a rebate program at the moment so it cost me £395 altogether.

Seems a good deal. Is the a6000 an entry level? Had the original NEX but sold it - was almost a great camera with the updated firmware but not enough buttons.


As an aside, are there any practical accessories to get more zoom from a smartphone camera? I went on holiday last week without my DSLR and while the smartphone was super convenient, it was so wide angle it got frustrating.

 

[MRORANGE]

Seems a good deal. Is the a6000 an entry level? Had the original NEX but sold it - was almost a great camera with the updated firmware but not enough buttons.

A6000 is a beast of a camera, it replaces the NEX 6/7 which were both great cameras, it beats DSLR's on the same price level quite easily and the AF with 11fps is godly.

The only reason why it's being discounted is the fact that a new version is coming out later this year. At that price range nothing can come close to beating it.

 

[mrklaw]

A6000 is a beast of a camera, it replaces the NEX 6/7 which were both great cameras, it beats DSLR's on the same price level quite easily and the AF with 11fps is godly.

The only reason why it's being discounted is the fact that a new version is coming out later this year. At that price range nothing can come close to beating it.

Thanks. How would that compare to something like the Olympus OM-D EM10 which seems around the same price after cashback?

(Intend to flip flop between mirror less and normal DSLR every 18 months...I should really stop that)

One thing I like is a nice zoom though (around 200mm) which then makes the smaller mirrorless body seem a bit pointless because of the size

 

[TerryLee81]

Thanks. How would that compare to something like the Olympus OM-D EM10 which seems around the same price after cashback?

(Intend to flip flop between mirror less and normal DSLR every 18 months...I should really stop that)

One thing I like is a nice zoom though (around 200mm) which then makes the smaller mirrorless body seem a bit pointless because of the size

The sensor of the a6000 is bigger and better, no doubts about that. If you get one, I would try to get rid of the kit lens and get a prime instead.

The big plus of m4/3 like the e-m10 is size and especially lens size. The m4/3 system has a lot of lenses with superb optics, light, small and some of them quite reasonably priced.

After my last trip with a DSLR I found myself longing after something small and light with good IQ, so I sold it and got a E-M5 II.

 

[mrklaw]

I have a 600d with 85mm 1.8 and sigma 18-250, so fairly bulky. I think the following seem quite interesting to look into
- Olympus OMD e10. £75 cashback at the moment, but the mk2 is coming and looks to have some nice improvements

- Fuji XT10.

- Sony a6000

The Olympus and Sony would come in around £400 after cashback. Fuji is around £575 so maybe out of the equation. I'd want a longer lens like a 200mm equivalent, and an 85mm prime (50mm on m4/3?)

Not sure what I could sell my current kit for
- canon 600d
- canon 85mm 1.8
- sigma 18-250 macro

If I can keep the cost to change low I think I'll jump

 

[RuGalz]

I have a 600d with 85mm 1.8 and sigma 18-250, so fairly bulky. I think the following seem quite interesting to look into
- Olympus OMD e10. £75 cashback at the moment, but the mk2 is coming and looks to have some nice improvements

- Fuji XT10.

- Sony a6000

The Olympus and Sony would come in around £400 after cashback. Fuji is around £575 so maybe out of the equation. I'd want a longer lens like a 200mm equivalent, and an 85mm prime (50mm on m4/3?)

Not sure what I could sell my current kit for
- canon 600d
- canon 85mm 1.8
- sigma 18-250 macro

If I can keep the cost to change low I think I'll jump

If you go from APSC DSLR to APSC MILC, look at the lenses you would use on the MILC and see how much weight you actually save. For me, I was looking at Fuji XT1 at one point but I'm saving like 200g with the lenses I would use. And smaller body makes bigger lenses more uncomfortable use. So, after weighting out all the pros and cons, it's a shit load of money (admittedly I'm frugal) just to save a tiny bit of weight, which has made me ignoring all the hype and stop wanting new gears. Also, I notice a lot of people with DSLR who complains about the weight tends to wear the camera around the neck instead of cross body. It makes a big difference.

For me, going MILC means I'll either go FF so that the overall weight and size is about the same with about 1 stop advantage on high iso end or go m4/3 if I want to have significant enough size & weight reduction and give up about 1 stop of everything.

 

[MRORANGE]

I have a 600d with 85mm 1.8 and sigma 18-250, so fairly bulky. I think the following seem quite interesting to look into
- Olympus OMD e10. £75 cashback at the moment, but the mk2 is coming and looks to have some nice improvements

- Fuji XT10.

- Sony a6000

The Olympus and Sony would come in around £400 after cashback. Fuji is around £575 so maybe out of the equation. I'd want a longer lens like a 200mm equivalent, and an 85mm prime (50mm on m4/3?)

Not sure what I could sell my current kit for
- canon 600d
- canon 85mm 1.8
- sigma 18-250 macro

If I can keep the cost to change low I think I'll jump

IF you can find the Fuji XT10 then it's got a fantastic line of lenses, Fujifilm have been rampant on bring out lenses for the X series over the past few years, while with Sony you have to rely on 3rd party lenses such as Voigtlandr and Zeiss which are great but expensive.

 

[JadedWriter]

Also, I notice a lot of people with DSLR who complains about the weight tends to wear the camera around the neck instead of cross body. It makes a big difference.

Yeah this makes a lot of sense. I use either a neck strap or my Black Rapid Curve strap on my DSLR and on the strap it's a lot more comfortable. Though when I'm wearing it around my neck I do not let the thing hang. I hold it firmly in one of my hands for comforts sake. Only time I use the strap though is when I have my back pack and camera bag with the Black Rapid strap on that gets uncomfortable so I just wear it around my neck, but hold it to compensate. Letting the thing hang is a hassle and dangerous from a swinging stand point, plus uncomfortable.

 

[FStop7]

I could never wear a DSLR on my neck. I don't even like wearing a Leica on my neck.

When I still shot DSLR I used this:

http://www.blackrapid.com/products/sport

I typically carried a Canon 1D MkIV or 7D+grip with a 70-200 IS 2.8 II with the strap connected to the lens. Alternatively I would use a 24-70 F2.8L with the strap connected to the body. Either way, I could walk around all day with this setup.

With the Leica I use this:

http://www.blackrapid.com/products/metro

But I don't really like it. The camera bounces too much, I don't like that it hangs upside down, and it looks too professional for walking around on the street. I also use a wrist strap but the problem with that is sometimes I want both hands free.

So right now I'm looking at other options.

 

[RuGalz]

I've pretty much converted over to use Peak Design's system.

Slide for my DSLR, although I think it's too heavy duty for my camera and I wish I had waited for Slide Lite.
Leash for lighter cameras.
Clip if I am trekking or have a backpack on me, in which case the camera would have no strap on it at all.

The anchor system let me switch between the 3 setups at any time.

But before I had all this stuff, I'd just make the neck strap as long as possible and just have my DSLR hang like a black rapid. It worked well enough.

 

[Bebpo]

What are the thoughts on Mirrorless cameras vs. DSLRs these days?

 

[Tendo]

So I got an a6000 this weekend and oh MAN what an amazing difference. I love it. I got the package with the zoom lens as well so the wife and I are heading to the local state park this weekend to test it out.

One thing I'm finding with the kit lens is that I am struggling to get things super sharp. Might be the lens, might be me. I'm shooting primarily in aperture mode between 5.6 and 10.0 and I'm usually using auto focus - single with a center focus zone. white balance and iso on auto. Any tips to really make images pop without needing to dive into light room or is it just my kit lens? Maybe I'm just a crazy person. I think I'm setting my aperture too low?

Here is a link to my flickr if anyone wants to take a peek at what I have done so far (not much). https://www.flickr.com/photos/134156847@N08/

 

[Ty4on]

I think I'm setting my aperture too low?

The lens just isn't very sharp according to most people. Anything more than F8 and diffraction takes over. F11 will usually trade some center performance for corner performance.

 

[Aurongel]

I could never wear a DSLR on my neck. I don't even like wearing a Leica on my neck.

When I still shot DSLR I used this:

http://www.blackrapid.com/products/sport

+1 for this style of sling.

There are cheaper variants of the BlackRapid out there though. Used one to shoot the entirety of NY Comic Con last year and never felt sore once. Looks a bit goofy if you're not wearing a solid black shirt though, otherwise it blends pretty well and doesn't make you look like a commando photographer.

 

[mrklaw]

So I got an a6000 this weekend and oh MAN what an amazing difference. I love it. I got the package with the zoom lens as well so the wife and I are heading to the local state park this weekend to test it out.

One thing I'm finding with the kit lens is that I am struggling to get things super sharp. Might be the lens, might be me. I'm shooting primarily in aperture mode between 5.6 and 10.0 and I'm usually using auto focus - single with a center focus zone. white balance and iso on auto. Any tips to really make images pop without needing to dive into light room or is it just my kit lens? Maybe I'm just a crazy person. I think I'm setting my aperture too low?

Here is a link to my flickr if anyone wants to take a peek at what I have done so far (not much). https://www.flickr.com/photos/134156847@N08/

try taking some test shots at various apertures. Use a tripod if you have one to eliminate shake as a potential blurring factor (or just put it on a table and use the timer to avoid shaking it). You shouldn't need to use much more than f8/f11 to get a sharp image on a kit lens. And with cropped sensors there is no point going much beyond f16 as you'll get diffraction artifacts which will make things less sharp. Ultimate sharpness may be limited by the lens, and you'll probably want to add some afterwards in lightroom/photoshop too.




Jumped on the OMD-E10 in the end. With the cashback running out last night I had to make a decision. Silver body with 14-42 compact lens for £304 after cashback seems a good price. I also nabbed a tamron 14-150 from the amazon warehouse for £276 - 'as new' and if there are any marks I'll just return it. All I need now is a 45mm f1.8 and that should be enough to start off with.

 

[Tendo]

try taking some test shots at various apertures. Use a tripod if you have one to eliminate shake as a potential blurring factor (or just put it on a table and use the timer to avoid shaking it). You shouldn't need to use much more than f8/f11 to get a sharp image on a kit lens. And with cropped sensors there is no point going much beyond f16 as you'll get diffraction artifacts which will make things less sharp. Ultimate sharpness may be limited by the lens, and you'll probably want to add some afterwards in lightroom/photoshop too.

The lens just isn't very sharp according to most people. Anything more than F8 and diffraction takes over. F11 will usually trade some center performance for corner performance.

.

Sounds good. I'll try that out this week. That falls in line with my thinking I had the aperture a bit low.

I have my eye on that 35mm 1.8 prime lens. :O

 

[Ty4on]

Sounds good. I'll try that out this week. That falls in line with my thinking I had the aperture a bit low.

I have my eye on that 35mm 1.8 prime lens. :O

I thought by low you meant... low numbers... We need better notation for f-stops. I hate when I'm about to explain it and realize how little sense it'll make to them.

 

[Tendo]

I thought by low you meant... low numbers... We need better notation for f-stops. I hate when I'm about to explain it and realize how little sense it'll make to them.

Let me make sure that I'm saying this right. I think I was shooting mostly at f/5.6

 

[Ty4on]

Let me make sure that I'm saying this right. I think I was shooting mostly at f/5.6

No problem
I was ranting about the notation, not you.

 

[JadedWriter]

Sounds good. I'll try that out this week. That falls in line with my thinking I had the aperture a bit low.

I have my eye on that 35mm 1.8 prime lens. :O

Based on my limited experience that would help a lot. I've gotten my best images out of my 50mm 1.8 prime lens and my telephoto kit lenses can not compete with it when it comes to image sharpness. Also with the telephoto lenses you lose sharpness the more you zoom in unless I'm talking out of my butthole on that one.

 

[mrklaw]

bonus - just found out I had kept my FD-micro 4/3 adapter from when I had a GH2. I have a few old lenses from my father in law which I can play with:
Canon FD 50mm f1.8
Canon FD 28mm f2.8
Canon FD 135mm f3.5
Tokina FD 70-210 macro

 

[Ty4on]

Also with the telephoto lenses you lose sharpness the more you zoom in unless I'm talking out of my butthole on that one.

It depends on the lens, but I think most cheap teles zooms are like that. The expensive Nikon and Canon 70-200 f2.8 seem to be just as good at 200mm, and probably because that focal length is so important to pros.

I hate how there isn't something a little better than the standard 55-200 for APS-C, but not 70-200 f4 priced. Those lenses are seemingly only for pros or kits.

 

[JadedWriter]

Why does an F 2.0 200mm lense sound expensive as fuck? I love my 50mm 1.8 prime but sometimes I want to zoom in a bit but I lose sharpness. Drives me crazy. I do wish there was a better compromise regarding the pricing of good telephoto lenses cause my kit lens can be decent and other times just flat and muddy or just plain slow.

 

[Herbs]

Why does an F 2.0 200mm lense sound expensive as fuck? I love my 50mm 1.8 prime but sometimes I want to zoom in a bit but I lose sharpness. Drives me crazy. I do wish there was a better compromise regarding the pricing of good telephoto lenses cause my kit lens can be decent and other times just flat and muddy or just plain slow.

R+D and material costs, less of field to sell it and cater to so needs a higher price to keep margins in line, and because they can because the price is worth it.

Save up and buy a better lens. You'll be better in the long run for it. Or just make due with what you can. The ever present pursuit of sharpness is a worthless endeavor unless you are making money on it. Content and skill is a better tool than a sharp lens.

Here's an image many consider to be the definitive photo of capturing a singular moment.

Not sharp at all because it doesn't need to be.

 

[JadedWriter]

R+D and material costs, less of field to sell it and cater to so needs a higher price to keep margins in line, and because they can because the price is worth it.

Save up and buy a better lens. You'll be better in the long run for it. Or just make due with what you can. The ever present pursuit of sharpness is a worthless endeavor unless you are making money on it. Content and skill is a better tool than a sharp lens.

Here's an image many consider to be the definitive photo of capturing a singular moment.


Not sharp at all because it doesn't need to be.

Lol that's pretty cool...I really need to stop over thinking some of this shit at times. I can only imagine how many sub optimal pictures I've probably trashed. I know if I ever start doing portrait photography I'll probably get a macro lens.

 

[Herbs]

Lol that's pretty cool...I really need to stop over thinking some of this shit at times. I can only imagine how many sub optimal pictures I've probably trashed. I know if I ever start doing portrait photography I'll probably get a macro lens.

If you're shooting Canon that 50mm is a beast of good lens. My advice is save up for a used 70-200mm f/4 IS. Worth the price. If you want to stick with prime go for the 200mm 2.8. Can't lose in either scenario.

 

[JadedWriter]

If you're shooting Canon that 50mm is a beast of good lens. My advice is save up for a used 70-200mm f/4 IS. Worth the price. If you want to stick with prime go for the 200mm 2.8. Can't lose in either scenario.

I shoot Nikon still seems to be a good lens though. I need to look into a good telephoto and a good lens for night shooting as well. I don't want anything too heavy though since it's a D7100 and I primarily just walk around nyc just shot hunting.

 

[Ty4on]

Why does an F 2.0 200mm lense sound expensive as fuck? I love my 50mm 1.8 prime but sometimes I want to zoom in a bit but I lose sharpness. Drives me crazy. I do wish there was a better compromise regarding the pricing of good telephoto lenses cause my kit lens can be decent and other times just flat and muddy or just plain slow.

We can simplify a lens to a single element focusing light to the image plane:

The focal length divided by the aperture in this system would give us the physical diameter of the lens. I like to think of the f number as one telling us how wide that cone of light is.
One issue is when you've got a focal length of 200mm that means that the diameter has to be 100mm at f2 which is a huge element that would be expensive to manufacture. 100mm f2.8 lenses on the other hand are quite cheap to make, but aren't made anymore as regular consumers demand zooms.

You can see just how big they are. This is how the Zuiko 180mm f2 dwarfs the OM-4:

It's a small camera, but still. That's one huge element.

 

[captive]

Why does an F 2.0 200mm lense sound expensive as fuck? I love my 50mm 1.8 prime but sometimes I want to zoom in a bit but I lose sharpness. Drives me crazy. I do wish there was a better compromise regarding the pricing of good telephoto lenses cause my kit lens can be decent and other times just flat and muddy or just plain slow.

Because its not a linear transition from a F4 to a F2.8 to a F2.0. Especially at the telephoto range.

It requires exponentially more glass. And you're not going to make a 200mm F2.0 or any exotic telephoto with cheap glass and non ED glass because the type of people to buy that glass want the best.

There are alternatives like 200f4 though.

 

[Ty4on]

It requires exponentially more glass. And you're not going to make a 200mm F2.0 or any exotic telephoto with cheap glass and non ED glass because the type of people to buy that glass want the best.

That too. Telephoto lenses are more prone to chromatic aberrations which is why Canon's longest lenses all feature super expensive fluorite elements (not the same as fluorine coating). Other than that though they're usually the most corrected lenses out there.