I've found it to be a pretty great all in one lens, albeit slightly bulky for everyday use. I'm thinking about getting the Oly macro lens to go with it though, but that's about it.
-
Hey, guest user. Hope you're enjoying NeoGAF! Have you considered registering for an account? Come join us and add your take to the daily discourse.
The Official Camera Equipment Megathread
- Thread starter demon
- Start date
- Status
I've found it to be a pretty great all in one lens, albeit slightly bulky for everyday use. I'm thinking about getting the Oly macro lens to go with it though, but that's about it.
Rentahamster
Rodent Whores
Time to wander around Shinjuku camera town again and see if theres anything cool.
TerryLee81
Member
Yeah that makes sense. And I think I'll keep the 25mm 1.8 to go out light in the evening / at night.
Splash Wave
Member
I did this recently, and it made me sad that I didn't know more about cameras/lenses/photography. I didn't even know where to start looking on behalf of my modest NEX-6.
I did find an adequate camera strap, though.
Astral/H3X
Member
Personally, IMO, anything that has a focal length that you'd like, with a good aperture, just google it. Good price? Good lens? Grabbit.
There's such a wide variety out there that I find it easier to see what's available and check to see if it's good, than it is to have a few specific ones to look for.
Just bought a compact softbox for my flashgun. Has a bowers attachment but a flashgun adapter so the flash sits at the back of the softbox for easy adjustment. Only 60x60cm but I wanted to play with something that had more control than an umbrella. Is that an OK size for head shots? Depending how I get with it I might look at something larger, but the larger ones often have an umbrella style with the flash hidden inside - I use a cheap YN560 flashgun with wireless triggers so I can't adjust power remotely on the camera so easy access to the flash is important.
any advice on a flash for a Canon 5D II?
I currently use an old Nikon SB28 connected with a wire. I don't know if the flash is old, or the wire is faulty, or if it's just Canon camera + Nikon flash acting fussy, but it's never reliable as far as actually firing the flash.
I have some wireless triggers but I can't remember the brand... bought them about 5 years ago and didn't ever use them much. Not sure if this company is still around even.
Should I just spring for a 580 EX II? how would I do wireless triggering with this flash?
I currently use an old Nikon SB28 connected with a wire. I don't know if the flash is old, or the wire is faulty, or if it's just Canon camera + Nikon flash acting fussy, but it's never reliable as far as actually firing the flash.
I have some wireless triggers but I can't remember the brand... bought them about 5 years ago and didn't ever use them much. Not sure if this company is still around even.
Should I just spring for a 580 EX II? how would I do wireless triggering with this flash?
Or if you're shooting manual, could get YN560 II or III?
definitely. really quite a few options nowadays, especially at reasonable price points.
oh! I remembered the wireless triggers I have. They are RadioPoppers.
I just have the one you put on your camera and then one that connects to me Alien Bees light. At the time, they didn't have one to connect to a flash but I think they eventually came out with a product for that.
So I go to their website and all their products now look completely different from what I have. I guess I'll look into whether I can still use my transmitter and buy a receiver for the 430 EX II. Looks really nice for $250 new. I think I bought the Nikon SB28 for around that price used.
I just have the one you put on your camera and then one that connects to me Alien Bees light. At the time, they didn't have one to connect to a flash but I think they eventually came out with a product for that.
So I go to their website and all their products now look completely different from what I have. I guess I'll look into whether I can still use my transmitter and buy a receiver for the 430 EX II. Looks really nice for $250 new. I think I bought the Nikon SB28 for around that price used.
when you say if I'm shooting manual, do you mean like shutter speed, f-stop, ISO?
or do you mean adjusting the flash strength from the transmitter? As in the yungnuo can change flash level but the YN569 you would need to do this manually on the flash itself?
so my old transmitter will work with the new receivers.
The RadioPopper Nano receiver is a basic trigger with no power control for $50.
The PX receiver can do power control but it's $80 more. Not sure if power control is worth the extra as I just plan on a very basic set up for now where I'll either be hand holding the flash or have it on a tripod fairly close to my subjects.
Multiple 430 EX IIs on Fred Miranda for $150... Gonna snap up one of those once I read through a few reviews and make sure it's good for my needs.
does anyone here use high-speed sync? RadioPopper has an even more expensive trigger system that does high-speed sync but it sounds like it needs to be attached to a flash that is on the hot shoe of the camera.
The RadioPopper Nano receiver is a basic trigger with no power control for $50.
The PX receiver can do power control but it's $80 more. Not sure if power control is worth the extra as I just plan on a very basic set up for now where I'll either be hand holding the flash or have it on a tripod fairly close to my subjects.
Multiple 430 EX IIs on Fred Miranda for $150... Gonna snap up one of those once I read through a few reviews and make sure it's good for my needs.
does anyone here use high-speed sync? RadioPopper has an even more expensive trigger system that does high-speed sync but it sounds like it needs to be attached to a flash that is on the hot shoe of the camera.
I mean not TTL where the flash decides its own flash output automatically based on the exposure.
The yongnuo range have a variety of flash guns and wireless transceivers. I have the yongnuo YN560 II and a couple of yongnuo rf603c radio triggers. The triggers let you set a channel but are otherwise dumb, so you have to set the power on the flashgun. They do more recent triggers that I think can adjust the remote power from the transmitter on the camera but i thnk you would also need a compatible flash. Haven't looked into the specific models that would do that though
Personally if you are just going to use manual settings, I'd just get one or two yongnuo YN560 Mark II or III for way less than the price of a 430EX. Then one or two receivers that work with the radio popper transmitter. For simple use you don't need to adjust the power from the transmitter - you can dial the basic flash level in and then tweak using ISO or Aperture on the camera.
Got it...
I was way into flash photography when I took a studio lighting class in '09 but just sorta moved away from it.
I'm taking a portrait photography class now and want to get back into flash. I just did some portraits of the board of directors at my GF's work and they turned out great but I think I just lucked out big time with good lighting on the day of the photos. I feel like I need to be prepared for a day when the available light isn't any good.
I think for now I'll just start with buying the 430 EX II used for $150. I'd rather just have a Canon flash so I don't have to worry about any issues from 3rd party gear. I think I'm making enough from freelance jobs and enough are coming up to justify the higher expense.
I was way into flash photography when I took a studio lighting class in '09 but just sorta moved away from it.
I'm taking a portrait photography class now and want to get back into flash. I just did some portraits of the board of directors at my GF's work and they turned out great but I think I just lucked out big time with good lighting on the day of the photos. I feel like I need to be prepared for a day when the available light isn't any good.
I think for now I'll just start with buying the 430 EX II used for $150. I'd rather just have a Canon flash so I don't have to worry about any issues from 3rd party gear. I think I'm making enough from freelance jobs and enough are coming up to justify the higher expense.
TerryLee81
Member
For shooting video only, are camcorders better than dslr/mirrorless cameras?
Valkyr Junkie
Member
It depends. They certainly do certain things better than a stills camera; ergonomics, battery life, no shooting length limitations, built-in microphones, built-in ND filters, thermal concerns, etc.
Astral/H3X
Member
To add to this, Yongnuo's flashes are really great for the price, especially if you can handle manual flash control. The transceiver on my camera can control the flash output as well as trigger it, as well as do some cool shit with setting off the flash at intervals. So I can set the flash down on a tripod and control everything through the module on the camera.
Also, the 560 IV acts as that same transceiver, so a 560 IV can perform all of that same control on a III.
How did you light them when you did portraits of the board? I'm going to have to do selfie head shots next week to update my CV and I'm not sure how to approach it. Most online resources use female models and not ugly men
Of course, up o you how you spend your money, but if you're getting back into flash you'll quite quickly want two flashguns, and the yongnuo are highly rated - not just cheap, but good and cheap. We wouldn't recommend you budget trash
. Having said that, the 430EXII has TTL which may be helpful in some situations (especially if your camera body has a commander mode built in)Do you know what models you need for transmitter control? Is it just a new transceiver, or do you need a particular model of flash too? If a new transceiver would work with my 560 II I might upgrade for convenience
Astral/H3X
Member
How did you light them when you did portraits of the board? I'm going to have to do selfie head shots next week to update my CV and I'm not sure how to approach it. Most online resources use female models and not ugly men
Of course, up o you how you spend your money, but if you're getting back into flash you'll quite quickly want two flashguns, and the yongnuo are highly rated - not just cheap, but good and cheap. We wouldn't recommend you budget trash
Do you know what models you need for transmitter control? Is it just a new transceiver, or do you need a particular model of flash too? If a new transceiver would work with my 560 II I might upgrade for convenience
The 560 TX is the transmitter, and will relay both settings and triggering to a 560 III or a 560 IV. It will not transmit to a 560 II. Additionally, the TX can also send to the RF 603's, which are their remote triggers (No settings control, purely a dumb remote), that you can put a 560 II on.
A 560 IV can act as a 560 TX, so just about anything you can do on the TX, you can do on the IV.
So III can receive commands, TX can send commands, and IV can both send and receive commands.
Thanks. So if I get a 560TX and 560III then I can adjust the flash from the camera. Also as I already have a couple of rf603s I should be able to use one as a wireless shutter release with the 560TX (and a suitable cable), and the second rf603 on my existing 560II as a backup manual flash which would need to be separately adjusted
Astral/H3X
Member
Only one I'm not sure on is the shutter cable part (Just because I haven't personally done it myself, it should work though). Other than that, yup!
Depends on what you shoot.
I do video exclusively on DSLR cameras and i love the freedom, it does have it's shortcomings like no autofocus, but a pro videocamera with the amount of freedom i get from my gear is too expensive.
Just ordered an 80x80cm softbox, YN560III, 560TX and a light stand from Amazon. All for less than £100. Along with my existing single YN560II, stand, 60x60cm softbox that'll give me lots to play with. Cheap enough that if I find the 560Tx super convenient, I can just replace the 560II with another mkIII
Hopefully I can also trigger the 560TX from my rf603, as the 560tx has a socket for a camera cable.
Hopefully I can also trigger the 560TX from my rf603, as the 560tx has a socket for a camera cable.
Astral/H3X
Member
Question: If I want a "good value" macro set up (I'm thinking some kind of clamp that can hold my Yongnuo 560IV, and a diffuser to match), what should I be looking at? I've got a 50mm macro, so about 3 inches to subject distance.
If you want to keep using your flash, you'd probably want to look at a ring flash kit to use with it especially if getting in close.
Astral/H3X
Member
I've heard that ring flashes tend to blow it out and cause weird ring shaped speculars, and that it's better to just use a large diffuser so that the light looks more natural.
I guess it depends on what you're going for then. If going for natural light maybe it's best to keep the flash at home. Also might be worth looking at example images of what macro you like and work backwards from there.
Maybe something like a simple translucent cap for the flash and just point as close as you can to the subject without it getting in the way of the lens? My tripod has a centre colum that can go horizontal to act like a boom so could attach it to that.
Or could you do something strange like having a square of diffusion material and cut a slit in the centre to poke the camera through. Then just have the flash fire into it for behind the camera.
Or could you do something strange like having a square of diffusion material and cut a slit in the centre to poke the camera through. Then just have the flash fire into it for behind the camera.
JadedWriter
Member
Is it weird that my most used lens is a 50mm lens?
Splash Wave
Member
Alright, yet another question in regard to my NEX-6! I think I was a little premature asking before, as I hadn't actually shot very much yet.
I find that taking low-light photos with my Sigma 30mm is slightly difficult, but I'm not sure if it's me or the lens that's the problem. If I don't crank up the ISO, my photos are blurry--but if I do crank up the ISO, I see a pretty big drop in quality. Is it me or the lens? Maybe both?
The situations I'm talking about are mostly in bars/izakayas with low lighting. These are some of my favorite places to take pictures in Tokyo, and my pictures aren't looking as good as I want them to!
I find that taking low-light photos with my Sigma 30mm is slightly difficult, but I'm not sure if it's me or the lens that's the problem. If I don't crank up the ISO, my photos are blurry--but if I do crank up the ISO, I see a pretty big drop in quality. Is it me or the lens? Maybe both?
The situations I'm talking about are mostly in bars/izakayas with low lighting. These are some of my favorite places to take pictures in Tokyo, and my pictures aren't looking as good as I want them to!
theepicoftyler
Member
You'll want to open the aperture on your lens as wide as you can for low light (lowest f#). Raising the ISO will progressively degrade image quality so your first two settings to tweak should aperture and shutter speed. Open it wide, then lower the shutter speed as far as you can before motion blur becomes problematic (I try to stay at 1/60 or faster). You will have to raise the ISO some, but there is likely a happy balance that you can find to maximize image quality.
Astral/H3X
Member
Sounds like you have some weird auto settings going on? When turning your iso down, it sounds like your aperture is opening, giving a more pronounced depth of field, but its not focusing correctly. Then when you turn up your iso, obviously the ISO starts heavily affecting the quality of the image, but the less pronounced depth of field (from the aperture closing back up) means its at least in focus.
Splash Wave
Member
Err, blurry because the shutter speed makes it so. In hindsight, I should really just be shooting in full manual made.
It sounds like I just suck at taking pictures!
I'm going to give this a shot!
Astral/H3X
Member
Err, blurry because the shutter speed makes it so. In hindsight, I should really just be shooting in full manual made.
It sounds like I just suck at taking pictures!
I'm going to give this a shot!
Aaaaah, yeah that would make more sense. I don't ever really use the auto settings so I don't really know how each behaves that well. X_x
cut up a Pringles can and put a piece of diffusing material in the front?
I don't think so. My most used lens is 50mm too. I've come to appreciate the way it frames things.
Err, blurry because the shutter speed makes it so. In hindsight, I should really just be shooting in full manual made.
It sounds like I just suck at taking pictures!
I'm going to give this a shot!
Don't need full manual mode, shutter priority may be more useful. Dual in the shutter speed you can comfortably handhold (and that reduces subject movement blurring (1/60 absolute minimum I'd say), set your auto ISO cap to a level you're comfortable with (some noise is inevitable in low light/high ISO settings), and let the camera float he ISO/aperture. Or if you are going to shoot at wide open apertures, then manual might be simple enough - set your aperture wide open, shutter speed to 1/60 minimum, and then your ISO becomes your variable which you can raise or lower to get the meter to be balanced.
sankt-Antonio
:^)--?-<
What's your guys opinion on 85mm glass? I have a 35mm, and a 50mm prime and I have quite the GAS regarding the Zeiss Batis 85mm.
Since i have always stuck to wider to moderate length glass I feel that having a longer focal length could shake things up a bit. And since I'm about to become a dad i figured it would be good to have ... well I'm just reaching for justifications to buy the lens
Since i have always stuck to wider to moderate length glass I feel that having a longer focal length could shake things up a bit. And since I'm about to become a dad i figured it would be good to have ... well I'm just reaching for justifications to buy the lens
What's your guys opinion on 85mm glass? I have a 35mm, and a 50mm prime and I have quite the GAS regarding the Zeiss Batis 85mm.
Since i have always stuck to wider to moderate length glass I feel that having a longer focal length could shake things up a bit. And since I'm about to become a dad i figured it would be good to have ... well I'm just reaching for justifications to buy the lens
What sensor size? Personally when I had an APS-C canon, I loved my 85mm 1.8 even though that would seem to be quite long. For candid shots of the kids it gave me a little more working distance to help catch moments without being in their face and making them self-conscious and start posing.
My mom is a jewelry appraiser and has been doing this for years.
Her basic setup is 3 white plexi glass sheets forming the three walls of a square, the top is open, with a soft velvet bottom which is standard for jewlery, she has lights on the two left and right walls and sometimes one above. If your photographing a bunch of items at once or a long necklace/bracelet its best to shoot it from above so you can get everything in focus.
You could also use a softbox. Either way it's best to have lights you can adjust so your not photographing your own shadow.
Her setup is for documentation and insurance purposes. Not art or marketing. Setup for that might be a little different.
Splash Wave
Member
I will absolutely try this when I get the chance. While I was out shooting today, the main thing I noticed is that the Sigma 30mm isn't great at capturing small spaces (which Tokyo is filled with). I should grab the 19mm if I want to solve this problem, right?
Take your kit lens out with you for a few trips, take some shots you like the framing and look of, then check the focal length afterwards to see what you prefer. Then consider whether you want a prime at around that length (or a better zoom that covers that length)
BlueTsunami
there is joy in sucking dick
Saving my pennies for a used Sony A7II. Getting a viewfinder again will feel so good having used the 5N for a couple of years. Also that in body stabilization.
Splash Wave
Member
I bought the camera from a friend, and he didn't buy the kit lens. :/
Used kit lenses are quite cheap if you want one. Look up which ones are worth getting. The current 16-50 has a reputation of being quite soft, but covers 16 which most don't.
Rent one? Borrow one from somebody? Or rent a nicer lens like a 16-50 2.8 (making it up but something like a fixed aperture short zoom)
Or the super cheap alternative would be to go onto Flickr and search for images with the focal length you're looking at - eg 25mm. Make sure they have been taken on APS-C cameras but they can be from canon/Nikon dslrs as you're just looking at the framing.
- Status