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The Official Camera Equipment Megathread
- Thread starter demon
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sankt-Antonio
:^)--?-<
FF. Maybe i should buy a cheap used 85mill and see if i can handle it.
Thanks for the tips man! Lucky that someone seems to be experienced in this.
Do you think a light box would work well too? I was thinking of maybe investing in a small one for this and future projects. She said they get new jewellery in very often.
I also checked out the office and while it's not very bright, the light was very smooth and diffuse and it might work well. She said I could maybe work there if I wanted.
you won't be able to use ambient light. need to buy lights if you are using a lightbox.
Oh yeah I know. It was more like an either or situation. Either get the light box and do it from home or do it the budget way and make do at their office.
I'd recommend going lights. Anything else for what you are trying to accomplish will look cheap and isn't worth the effort unfortunately, especially for product shots.
So softboxes is the way to go you mean? Sorry for all the Qs, I just think it would be nice if this could be a recurring job.
I think a soft-box is actually optional. Lighting is more important really. Depends on what aesthetic you are gong for.
I love it. Great link, thanks! Will definitely try this out.
Forsete
Member
https://www.netonnet.se/art/foto/fotostudio/knig-photostudiomini/114659.9019/
El hyfso, har inte använt min på år och dar men den fungerade bra tycker jag.
Tappa inte lamporna bara, halogen går sönder direkt (och blir supervarma).
Några av bilderna jag tog den en sådan studio.
Oh, snyggt! Verkar som ett schysst kit för priset, men recensionerna om att lamporna pajar fort är lite oroväckande. Är dom lätta att byta ut?
JadedWriter
Member
He should make sure they're not full frame lenses on APS-C cameras because I heard it converts the focal length of the lens to something different.
Astral/H3X
Member
Not quite. A given focal length will always behave the same way on a given sensor. Its just that focal lengths on an APSC will always behave differently than on a full frame.
A 50mm full frame lens on an APSC will look the same as a 50mm apsc lens, but any 50mm will look different on a full frame as opposed to on an apsc.
The only difference between a full frame lens and a apsc lens is that an apsc lens will not fully cover and illuminate a full frame sensor.
I have both a Sony eMount 50mm (an apsc lens) and a Canon FD 50mm lens (obv a full frame) and they take the exact same picture on my a6000 as far as fov is concerned.
JadedWriter
Member
Oh damn cause I've heard that it changes, I had no idea that it doesn't really effect that much. I was looking at these from Tamron and opted to ignore them cause they were intended for Full Frame cameras:
http://tamron-usa.com/F012_F013special/index.html#/
Astral/H3X
Member
Right, the thing to keep in mind is that there is a conversion factor! But it's caused by the camera, not the lens. Those 50mm lenses on the a6000 look the same as a 75mm lens would on a full frame. But EVERY 50mm will look like that on the a6000, regardless of APSc/Full Frame. If your camera and your focal length are the same, you'll get the same FOV.
Now, using an APSC lens on a full frame is technically possible, but depending on the lens you'll get varying amounts of vignetting and other shit. But most digital full frame cameras have an "APSC mode" that turns off half of the sensor, turning it into an APSC sized sensor, with the crop factor and all.
JadedWriter
Member
Oh ok, I use a D7100, but it sounds like I could actually get one of the Tamron lenses and not be heavily inconvenienced.
Forsete
Member
Ja, standard halogen. Finns säkert någon LED-variant nu också som man kan byta till. Bara man hittar några med hyfsat bra ljus i, så vitbalansen inte blir mongo.
Astral/H3X
Member
You won't even be able to tell the difference ^-^.
JadedWriter
Member
Beautiful. Image stabilization on a 1.8 prime lens would be great.
Grymt. La en beställning tidigare, tusen tack för tipset!
Astral/H3X
Member
Also, if it's a manually focusing lens, a Nikon will basically follow you forever. A full frame Nikon mount lens, IIRC, has a flange distance such that it can be mounted on essentially any other camera.
It's why when I start purchasing lenses, I might get them in Nikon mount, since they'll be MF anyway.
JadedWriter
Member
I should really practice with manual focus more. Usually I never have the time and I don't trust my eyes enough to mess around with manual focus too much, which is probably blasphemy on here.
Astral/H3X
Member
Well, it's hard with an OVF.
It's piss easy with an EVF. :x
I do my portraits at F1.4 up close and have no issue focusing, and focus better than AF does. Sure it's convenient and quick but usually I do a better job if I have the extra second anyway.
JadedWriter
Member
Ok so I'm not a scrub for having a bit of a hard time getting it with the OVF and live view on my camera isn't even real time. One day I'll give it a try, just doing street photography doesn't exactly give me that much time to actually manual focus.
BlueTsunami
there is joy in sucking dick
Street photography is all about zone focusing. Bringing the camera to your eye is already taking precious time. Set it to a smaller aperture knowing where the focus will hit (foreground or infinity) then its all about composing the shot without thinking about if you're nailing focus. This is obviously trickybif you're shooting with a long lens and thin depth of field which is why wide angle lenses are the prefered glass.
You can even shoot from the hip in this style, although composition won't be acquired, more about capturing a moment.
Another point, manual focusing with an OVF is definitely tough unless you're shooting with a correctly calibrated, and large OVF found in the full frame DSLRS. EVFs are a godsend for this.
JadedWriter
Member
I had no clue that was the case. Makes me wonder why my coworker saw that I kept AF on and she was like "cute," especially if it's that challenging.
I've been using a 1.8 50mm usually aperture fully open depending on the light. I've also used an 18-105 and an 18-55 depending on time of the day and my willingness to swap lenses. pretty much I've shot 85% probably of my stuff with the 50mm. I've gotten pretty decent at shooting through the viewfinder, oddly enough I've been learning not to think too much regarding my shots. Cause if I think too much about taking the shot, it's gone.
50:
DSC_3547 by Marcus Beasley, on Flickr
DSC_3437 by Marcus Beasley, on Flickr
DSC_3628 by Marcus Beasley, on Flickr18-105:
Gothic Strut by Marcus Beasley, on Flickr
DSC_2714 by Marcus Beasley, on Flickr18-55:
DSC_3016 by Marcus Beasley, on FlickrAstral/H3X
Member
Cuz she a beetch
An elitist beetch
Nah we've all got a bit of elitism in us, but honestly if I had a DSLR I probably wouldn't bother focusing it. I've got a few old film cameras that I just keep sorta as collectibles and it's so much harder even on those to tell what's in focus. My mom's APSC DSLR in comparison is even worse.
You have an APSC, right? I'd definitely try picking up a 16mm or so, and using that. You'll have to focus less, you'll get more, and worry less.
JadedWriter
Member
Yeah it's an APSC that I have. What's a good 16mm lens? I popped in 16mm Nikon lens into google and it just gave me a fisheye lens.
Astral/H3X
Member
You'll have to ask someone else about that. I personally am going to shoot for a Samyang lens, but there's a lot of lenses out there, especially for Nikon. Just up to whatever you want, really.
I recently bought a Ringlight and it is super bright. It's not a flash, so it's always on when I turn it on. Any tips on how to have it not drown out the background? I was planning on gelling a flash to change the color of a white backdrop for portrait photography, but I'm afraid the ring will overpower the backdrop lighting.
Likely a wide zoom (10-18 etc). There aren't many primes made nowadays, especially for APS-C. There are some FF primes that wide, but they're usually expensive and huge.
Regarding focal length conversion, it's just a crop. An APS-C camera has a smaller sensor so it's just cropping the center portion of the image and gets a narrower field of view.
JadedWriter
Member
I have been looking at a few Sigma lenses but I'm a member of destitute gaf.
You have a D7XXX series camera? Look at Tokina, they have some ultra wide zooms that are fairly affordable. I found the 11-16mm f2.8 for 350 used on keh.com
Astral/H3X
Member
Destitute GAF unite. ;_;
JadedWriter
Member
KEH actually has some pretty decent prices. How's the quality?
High five, we need to find a way to pay for this hobby...or have people pay us for it.
I have no idea (never used them), but people online seem to like them (conservative grading) and they have a return policy if you're not pleased.
Adorama and B&H also sell rated used gear.
Edit: I'm trying to be very frugal myself, but I'm investing in old film gear. That's where I learned to look for zooms because people bought them in spades in the past while modern enthusiasts avoid them. So many cheap 70-200mm f4s out there.
JadedWriter
Member
I know full well about B&H since both of my cameras from them were from their used shop. Lenses are just no joke price range. I have no use for F4's usually I've been looking for stuff in the 1.8 to 1.4 range. I think 2.8 is the slowest I would go.
Astral/H3X
Member
No kidding. Shit is expensive.
Yeah, but my 70-200mm is easily the worst lens I use.
Then again, all my other lenses are primes. :x
But it's just noticeably my worst.
Finding zooms, or even just longer focal length lenses in general, at those sorts of F's will be quite difficult. For your standard range primes yeah, faster is better, but you'll probably have to budge on that at the other ends.
In other news, I ended up ordering one of those Peak Design Leashes, and holy fuckshit I'm in love.
You see, I use a tripod for a lot of things, and generally find straps to be a hassle in general, though I know I should be using them outside of tripod work. Thing is, they are a pain in the ass to remove/strap on. Enter the Leash -- an awesome strap that uses little quick detach anchors to make removing or attaching it easy as piss. Other cool thing is that it's made of seatbelt material, so it just glides over my shirt, which IMO is fucking awesome. Hated how my Sony strap would just pull on it whenever I moved the camera. There's a lot of little things I love about it, but those are the main two. I didn't think I'd ever really splurge on a camera strap, but they convinced me haha.
TerryLee81
Member
Got the 12-40mm 2.8 lens. It's big and heavy, but the build quality is amazing.
Can't wait to go out and test it!
Can't wait to go out and test it!
No kidding. Shit is expensive.
Yeah, but my 70-200mm is easily the worst lens I use.
Then again, all my other lenses are primes. :x
But it's just noticeably my worst.
Finding zooms, or even just longer focal length lenses in general, at those sorts of F's will be quite difficult. For your standard range primes yeah, faster is better, but you'll probably have to budge on that at the other ends.
In other news, I ended up ordering one of those Peak Design Leashes, and holy fuckshit I'm in love.
You see, I use a tripod for a lot of things, and generally find straps to be a hassle in general, though I know I should be using them outside of tripod work. Thing is, they are a pain in the ass to remove/strap on. Enter the Leash -- an awesome strap that uses little quick detach anchors to make removing or attaching it easy as piss. Other cool thing is that it's made of seatbelt material, so it just glides over my shirt, which IMO is fucking awesome. Hated how my Sony strap would just pull on it whenever I moved the camera. There's a lot of little things I love about it, but those are the main two. I didn't think I'd ever really splurge on a camera strap, but they convinced me haha.
Glad you like the Leash. I was not a fan and passed it along shortly after purchasing it. Found the attachment gimmick to be too big and bulky and constantly clacked against my smaller x100s and XT-1. I did keep the larger Slide strap though and it's great for my 5d Mark III/7D combo.
After trying out so many other straps and hating them, I've spent way more than the cost of a single leash. I'm super happy to have converted to use slide, leash and clip combo. Only thing is I wish I have the slide lite instead of regular slide - it's too big for my DSLR.
JadedWriter
Member
Yeah I know not to be looking for like a 70-200 at that aperture range cause I don't think they even exist. I'd probably only get one more zoom, but it has to be better quality wise than my Nikon 18-105 kit lens. Mostly what I'm looking at have been prime lenses in the 1.8 to 1.4 range, but those are not cheap at all. Most of the time I shoot with a prime lens anyway and I love the quality I get from it. One of the lenses I want the most is the Sigma 18-35 1.8 lens but that thing is expensive as fuck, there's also the 30mm 1.4 lens they have, which might be affordable refurbished. As far as something bigger goes I'd probably actually get this:Finding zooms, or even just longer focal length lenses in general, at those sorts of F's will be quite difficult. For your standard range primes yeah, faster is better, but you'll probably have to budge on that at the other ends.
http://www.sigmaphoto.com/17-70mm-f28-4-dc-macro-os-hsm-c
I don't find myself zooming that much these days since it just degrades picture quality any way.
Most are crap, I should have left that in, but there are some bargains in the pile that are still affordable like the beercan.
Just had some playtime with my new flashes. Worked surprisingly well, but one limitation which was a bit annoying.
I already had an Olympus OM-D EM10, two rf603c (Mark 1) wireless triggers, a YN560II flash, and a light stand. In addition I bought a YN560III flash (which has a wireless receiver built in), YN560tx wireless controller, and a pixel UC1 sync cord. Also a couple of cheap soft boxes (60x60cm and 80x80cm) and a light stand.
Setup was like this: YN560tx on the camera hotshoe, sync cable connecting the camera to the 560tx. The YN560III in a softbox, and the YN560II sitting on an rf603 (to let it be triggered by the 560tx).
Good parts
1) pressing the camera shutter button the 560tx triggers the flashes just fine. I can control the power of the 560III from the transmitter; the 560II is just a trigger, I have to adjust the power on the flash itself.
2) using the Olympus iOS app, I can see a live view on my iPad, adjust shutter speed/aperture etc. And when I press the shutter button on the iPad app, the 560tx is still triggered.
3) using the spare rf603 I have, I can use the button on it as a wireless trigger into the 560tx. So the 560tx releases the shutter remotely and fires the flashes. I had been concerned that this setup wouldn't work.
The main negative is that - if you have the Olympus in wifi mode to use the app for live view, it seems to ignore external inputs. So I can't then fire it using the r603. This is a shame because I was hoping to use it as a pseudo tethered mode, just as a viewing screen. I was doing some self portraits and the iPad app was invaluable for seeing shots after they were taken, but that meant I had to use the iPad as the remote release which was really clunky compared to a small wireless release in my hand.
The other small negative is that if any of the flashes go to sleep, they don't automatically wake up when you half press the shutter. Not a major issue though. Overall though I'm very happy with how well the system works.
I already had an Olympus OM-D EM10, two rf603c (Mark 1) wireless triggers, a YN560II flash, and a light stand. In addition I bought a YN560III flash (which has a wireless receiver built in), YN560tx wireless controller, and a pixel UC1 sync cord. Also a couple of cheap soft boxes (60x60cm and 80x80cm) and a light stand.
Setup was like this: YN560tx on the camera hotshoe, sync cable connecting the camera to the 560tx. The YN560III in a softbox, and the YN560II sitting on an rf603 (to let it be triggered by the 560tx).
Good parts
1) pressing the camera shutter button the 560tx triggers the flashes just fine. I can control the power of the 560III from the transmitter; the 560II is just a trigger, I have to adjust the power on the flash itself.
2) using the Olympus iOS app, I can see a live view on my iPad, adjust shutter speed/aperture etc. And when I press the shutter button on the iPad app, the 560tx is still triggered.
3) using the spare rf603 I have, I can use the button on it as a wireless trigger into the 560tx. So the 560tx releases the shutter remotely and fires the flashes. I had been concerned that this setup wouldn't work.
The main negative is that - if you have the Olympus in wifi mode to use the app for live view, it seems to ignore external inputs. So I can't then fire it using the r603. This is a shame because I was hoping to use it as a pseudo tethered mode, just as a viewing screen. I was doing some self portraits and the iPad app was invaluable for seeing shots after they were taken, but that meant I had to use the iPad as the remote release which was really clunky compared to a small wireless release in my hand.
The other small negative is that if any of the flashes go to sleep, they don't automatically wake up when you half press the shutter. Not a major issue though. Overall though I'm very happy with how well the system works.
Splash Wave
Member
I guess I'll just be on the lookout for a used 1650PZ? I'm sure I'll come across a used model somewhere in Tokyo eventually.
Astral/H3X
Member
I mean, I could probably sell ya one.
You already have the 1.8? If not, it's a pretty great lens. If you do, then you can live without the L for a while
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