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The Official Camera Equipment Megathread

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Borman

Member
70-200mm f4.0L is damn awesome. Need to see if I have a USB cable with me (I'm home from University. Also, slightly bigger than I though, but not terrible. So awesome.
 

Forsete

Member
captive said:
I would be careful with those plates. I use the same plates for a different manfrotto head and I have had my camera fall out of the tripod when carrying it. luckily i always wrap the camera strap around the tripod so it didnt fall to the ground.
I'm definitely getting an acratech ballhead on my next upgrade.


Thanks, I'll keep that in mind. If I dropped my darling I would probably suicide.
 

Arthrus

Member
Hello! I'm getting into photography, and would like a little help starting up.

This thread is kind of scary and I know very little about what I should be looking for in a camera, equipment for proper lighting, whether I should purchase another lens with the camera, and probably some things I don't know that I don't know. If somebody could give me a quick catch-all beginner's tutorial on this stuff, or link me to a post with that information I'd be delighted. Since it's probably something to keep in mind, my budget is $800.

I plan on doing a little photoshopping as well, and I'm wondering if Lightroom 2 is worth the $180 (separate from my camera equipment budget). Any opinions?
 

Borman

Member
37748_711033760642_16118821_39451175_7533916_n.jpg


Win.
 

BlueTsunami

there is joy in sucking dick
Arthrus said:
Hello! I'm getting into photography, and would like a little help starting up.

This thread is kind of scary and I know very little about what I should be looking for in a camera, equipment for proper lighting, whether I should purchase another lens with the camera, and probably some things I don't know that I don't know. If somebody could give me a quick catch-all beginner's tutorial on this stuff, or link me to a post with that information I'd be delighted. Since it's probably something to keep in mind, my budget is $800.

I plan on doing a little photoshopping as well, and I'm wondering if Lightroom 2 is worth the $180 (separate from my camera equipment budget). Any opinions?

I would just get a Canon T1i (or Nikon equivalent) with the Kit lens. If you go with a Canon, maybe get the Canon 50/1.8 for $100. The final cost all together should come out to around $800 or so (maybe a little over). You'll have a competent Zoom lens (EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS) for general shooting during the day and Landscapes and a fast prime (Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 II) for times when you're out at night, indoors, failing light or moments where you want to play with that thin Depth of Field you see people posting up. All other lenses be them expensive or cheap alternatives are just there to pick up when you've finally become aware of what type of photographer you are (will you end up liking the flexibility zoom lenses? or the absolute speed and Depth of Field control of Primes?).

I wouldn't worry about lighting equipment at the beginning, just use that giant light source in the sky and become acquainted with the various lighting it imbues the land with throughout the day. Hell, I've been shooting for around 3 years and haven't touched off camera lighting yet! All natural, baby... lighting that is.
 
Hi, a semi-camera noob here.

I'm getting married soon. I want to get my fiancee a decent dig camera that's compact, while taking great pictures for a scrapbook of our life. It should shoot 720p video as well. She likes SLRs but they're too bulky. What's a good camera that should sway her from her SLR lust? I'm thinking around $300.
 

captive

Joe Six-Pack: posting for the common man
zhenming said:
wth? LOL nope
i thought all your "finished" car images were hdr, hence the halo around the car on the ground where it is lighter than it should be etc.

at any rate its not a good comparison as the second shot is different from the first shot for starters. and the second shot looks post processed vs the first which doesnt look that processed.
 

zhenming

Member
captive said:
i thought all your "finished" car images were hdr, hence the halo around the car on the ground where it is lighter than it should be etc.

at any rate its not a good comparison as the second shot is different from the first shot for starters. and the second shot looks post processed vs the first which doesnt look that processed.
sorry if it wasnt a professional test ok lol thats the only two images i had with similar angles that show off the use of a polarizer and one without. basically one has crazy reflections and the other one does not lol and you can get that "halo" via many other methods. Strobist for one.
 

kaskade

Member
From what I've seen on the flickr examples(the people say they don't post process), colors end up being more saturated and reflections diminish.

2387551911_1e9cb08d2e.jpg

The reflection in the water is pretty much non existant.

4489206505_d506dced2a.jpg

You can see how the filter also cuts down on the haze.

457797458_1a005a7b46.jpg


Seems to be really good for outdoor stuffs. I was just wondering what Gaf's personal experiences and thoughts were.
 

luoapp

Member
kaskade said:
From what I've seen on the flickr examples(the people say they don't post process), colors end up being more saturated and reflections diminish.

[/IMG]http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2131/2387551911_1e9cb08d2e.jpg[/IMG]
The reflection in the water is pretty much non existant.

[/IMG]http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4035/4489206505_d506dced2a.jpg[/IMG]
You can see how the filter also cuts down on the haze.

[/IMG]http://farm1.static.flickr.com/252/457797458_1a005a7b46.jpg[/IMG]

Seems to be really good for outdoor stuffs. I was just wondering what Gaf's personal experiences and thoughts were.

Nothing can't be fixed in post-processing. I mean, yea, I know pp degrades the image quality, but all my photos go through pp anyway. And if you have several lenses, you may need more than one cpl(s), and big size high quality cpl isn't cheap. Me personally? I tend to forget turning it to the right angle.:lol

Sure, if you are a pro or becoming one, just go ahead, cpl does help in some cases.
 

Arthrus

Member
BlueTsunami said:
I would just get a Canon T1i (or Nikon equivalent) with the Kit lens. If you go with a Canon, maybe get the Canon 50/1.8 for $100. The final cost all together should come out to around $800 or so (maybe a little over). You'll have a competent Zoom lens (EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS) for general shooting during the day and Landscapes and a fast prime (Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 II) for times when you're out at night, indoors, failing light or moments where you want to play with that thin Depth of Field you see people posting up. All other lenses be them expensive or cheap alternatives are just there to pick up when you've finally become aware of what type of photographer you are (will you end up liking the flexibility zoom lenses? or the absolute speed and Depth of Field control of Primes?).

I wouldn't worry about lighting equipment at the beginning, just use that giant light source in the sky and become acquainted with the various lighting it imbues the land with throughout the day. Hell, I've been shooting for around 3 years and haven't touched off camera lighting yet! All natural, baby... lighting that is.

Sounds about like what I was expecting. Good to hear.
I'm going to do some looking around to get an idea of local prices and if it's not too much more expensive than the XSi, I'll go with your suggestion. Now if only it would stop raining...
 

XMonkey

lacks enthusiasm.
A good circular polarizer is the first filter anyone shooting with a DSLR should be buying. IMO. You can't really replicate the effects in Photoshop. Get a 77mm CPL and then some step down rings to get to 72mm and 67mm (if nec.), then get something like a 58mm CPL and step down rings for 55mm, 52mm, etc. You really should only need to buy 2, depending on the lenses you own, not one for every lens.

Also, just so people aren't confused, the 2nd example kaskade posted, the polarized photo is on the left while on the other photos it's on the right.
 

zhenming

Member
you cant recreate the polarizer effect with any post processing. a polarizer is always used in my workflow now. very useful tool, not sure how i can live without it now.
 

captive

Joe Six-Pack: posting for the common man
luoapp said:
Nothing can't be fixed in post-processing. I mean, yea, I know pp degrades the image quality, but all my photos go through pp anyway. And if you have several lenses, you may need more than one cpl(s), and big size high quality cpl isn't cheap. Me personally? I tend to forget turning it to the right angle.:lol
exactly, for me its one extra thing thats distracting from taking pictures.

I don't use a CPL i think my pictures look fine. www.flickr.com/photos/wryphotography is my flickr if anyone would like to take a look.
 
luoapp said:
Nothing can't be fixed in post-processing. I mean, yea, I know pp degrades the image quality, but all my photos go through pp anyway. And if you have several lenses, you may need more than one cpl(s), and big size high quality cpl isn't cheap. Me personally? I tend to forget turning it to the right angle.:lol

Sure, if you are a pro or becoming one, just go ahead, cpl does help in some cases.

You never need more than one polarizer if you plan ahead- get one for your biggest lens, and step-up rings to use it with your other lenses.

And it may be possible to duplicate the effect in post, it's not trivial like duplicating a colored filter by changing white balance is.
 

captive

Joe Six-Pack: posting for the common man
zhenming said:
you should get one your shots are great! but a cpl would bring it up another notch you photography makes for a good cpl combo :D
i have one, I never use it.

i agree they are helpful for certain things like removing reflections or darkening sky or saturating foliage.
Typically though I want the reflections in water. and its a pain in the ass to take off and on and worry about putting it back in the bag. Also i don't recomend using it for sunset/sunrise shots which I do a lot of, as they will produce extra flaring. They can also produce vignetting on a lens.
So for me i just don't use them anymore.
 

zhenming

Member
captive said:
i have one, I never use it.

i agree they are helpful for certain things like removing reflections or darkening sky or saturating foliage.
Typically though I want the reflections in water. and its a pain in the ass to take off and on and worry about putting it back in the bag. Also i don't recomend using it for sunset/sunrise shots which I do a lot of, as they will produce extra flaring. They can also produce vignetting on a lens.
So for me i just don't use them anymore.
really depends on your workflow a lot then my work almost requires a polarizer 100% of the time, so I never take it off my nikon 24-70
 

kaskade

Member
captive said:
i have one, I never use it.

i agree they are helpful for certain things like removing reflections or darkening sky or saturating foliage.
Typically though I want the reflections in water. and its a pain in the ass to take off and on and worry about putting it back in the bag. Also i don't recomend using it for sunset/sunrise shots which I do a lot of, as they will produce extra flaring. They can also produce vignetting on a lens.
So for me i just don't use them anymore.
Is it a 58mm? Can I have it :lol
 
Polarizers can be very useful for reasons already described here, but like any filter it should only be used to get a specific effect in a specific situation -- don't just go around shooting with a polarizer on thinking it will make your pictures "better".

A good rule that has stuck with me is that you should only use a filter when you can consciously verbalize to yourself why you want it for a particular shot: "I'm using the polarizer because I want to darken the sky and make the clouds pop," or "I want to remove the reflections from the car," or "I want to make the foliage a darker green," etc.
 

brerwolfe

Member
Borman said:

i bought mine back (f/2.8) in march. i'm semi-new to photography and never had any great lenses before, it took me a while to get used to it.

23760_325195888258_844168258_3397483_342794_n.jpg


i've gradually gotten more comfortable with it and love it. $1700 was a lot, but i probably use it more than my 18-55, especially when i'm shooting video.
 

BlueTsunami

there is joy in sucking dick
For you Sony users, Zeiss posted on their Facebook page that their jointly developed with Sony ZA 24mm f/2 lens will be announced next Tuesday!
 

captive

Joe Six-Pack: posting for the common man
Any of you guys read Thom Hogan?

His post today says he's hearing rumors that Sony may stop producing full frame sensors which would affect Sony and Nikon.

I've heard from multiple sources now that Sony Semiconductor is about to drop FX sensors from their lineup. What I'm hearing is that high management in Sony is saying that full-frame cameras and sensors aren't bringing the payback necessary to make them long-term profitable. This is essentially forcing Sony Imaging to consider dropping future plans for full-frame cameras (A850, A900, and follow-ups), though I'm sure we'll still see some FF products from them that were already in progress before the stream of sensors dies out. Some of the sources for the rumor appear to be Sony employees who are lobbying for keeping full-frame in the lineup. They seem to hope that news of the impending decision on the Internet will generate a wave of protest that Sony management can't ignore.

http://www.bythom.com/

Yes Nikon uses Sony sensors in their full frame cameras. The next paragraph at his site explains why it would affect Nikon.
 
Does Nikon use any of Sony's sensors for FF models? It's probably not a bad idea for Sony to drop out of the high-end SLR market since it seems like Nikon/Canon have too strong of a grip there. I think focusing on NEX and the APS-C Alphas allows Sony to target a more open market and allow them to have better interchangeability between models.
 

luoapp

Member
captive said:
Any of you guys read Thom Hogan?

His post today says he's hearing rumors that Sony may stop producing full frame sensors which would affect Sony and Nikon.

I've heard from multiple sources now that Sony Semiconductor is about to drop FX sensors from their lineup. What I'm hearing is that high management in Sony is saying that full-frame cameras and sensors aren't bringing the payback necessary to make them long-term profitable. This is essentially forcing Sony Imaging to consider dropping future plans for full-frame cameras (A850, A900, and follow-ups), though I'm sure we'll still see some FF products from them that were already in progress before the stream of sensors dies out. Some of the sources for the rumor appear to be Sony employees who are lobbying for keeping full-frame in the lineup. They seem to hope that news of the impending decision on the Internet will generate a wave of protest that Sony management can't ignore.

http://www.bythom.com/

If Sony does drop the FX sensor, I can see that being interpreted as retrieving from the DSLR market, and consumers will lose the confidence without a flagship production showing where the whole line goes. On the other hand, I've heard their NEX-3 and 5 are selling like hot cakes, it won't be a bad idea for them to focus on the P&S and NEXs.
 

Forsete

Member
Well that would suck. Having moved to FF I don't want to go back to APS-C. I was under the impression that both A900 and A850 has sold well, Sony commented that the A900 performed over expectations a while back and it has gained a lot of praise.

Its also a little odd since they just announced that a 35mm camcorder was in development.

Valkyr Junkie: IIRC Nikon has the 25MP A900/850 sensor in the D3X.
One idea can be that Nikon has not gone with a Sony 35mm sensor for the next generation of FF cameras and Sony cant defend the economics of developing new ones.

So I'll just use my A900 til the mirror falls out. ;)

BlueTsunami said:
For you Sony users, Zeiss posted on their Facebook page that their jointly developed with Sony ZA 24mm f/2 lens will be announced next Tuesday!

Zeiss is always welcome. Sadly my 24-70 f2.8 already covers that range. :p
 

BlueTsunami

there is joy in sucking dick
Sony dropping their FF line would truly be mind boggling. Especially considering the money they dropped on the partnership with them and Zeiss which are very much optimized for FF cameras. Also their lines of FF cameras are supposed to be fairly popular and offer a nice cost saving over the Nikon/Canon counterparts.

Forsete said:
Zeiss is always welcome. Sadly my 24-70 f2.8 already covers that range. :p

Yeah, I can see the choice between the ZA VS's being a very big consideration against a prime thats only a stop faster. I've seen an amateur test that pitted that very Vario Sonnar against the Manual Focus primes they produce and the Vario Sonnar matched the 35/2 Distagon and the 50/1.4 Planar at equal apertures.

tl;dr: The Vario Sonnars are pretty much a bunch of Zeiss primes in a tube :D
 

Forsete

Member
BlueTsunami said:
Sony dropping their FF line would truly be mind boggling. Especially considering the money they dropped on the partnership with them and Zeiss which are very much optimized for FF cameras.

Zeiss goes way back though. Cybershots and Handycams have had "Zeiss optics" for years. (Since they bought Minoltas camera division they have started using G-optics also)
But yes, announcing Zeiss 24mm f2 and a Sony G 500mm f4 both with FF coverage is a little silly if you plan on not supporting Full Frame in the future.
 

ThatObviousUser

ὁ αἴσχιστος παῖς εἶ
So for a first time DSLR, would a Nikon D40 or D3000 be a good choice?

Choosing between them has been a bit difficult. On one hand I've seen some sites say that the D40 is bar-none the best lower-cost DSLR's available and that the D3000 adds some unnecessary stuff that gets in the way. On the other hand, some say the D40 is way outdated (and it is like 4 years old.)

On the other other hand, I've seen some recommend the D5000 since it's better than both and doesn't cost a whole lot more...

Any advice would be appreciated. I wouldn't be getting it very soon, so if there's something on the horizon I should be keeping an eye on, it'd be great to bring it up.
 

sneaky77

Member
Andrex said:
So for a first time DSLR, would a Nikon D40 or D3000 be a good choice?

Choosing between them has been a bit difficult. On one hand I've seen some sites say that the D40 is bar-none the best lower-cost DSLR's available and that the D3000 adds some unnecessary stuff that gets in the way. On the other hand, some say the D40 is way outdated (and it is like 4 years old.)

On the other other hand, I've seen some recommend the D5000 since it's better than both and doesn't cost a whole lot more...

Any advice would be appreciated. I wouldn't be getting it very soon, so if there's something on the horizon I should be keeping an eye on, it'd be great to bring it up.


If you're set on Nikon, go with d5000 over the d3000, it will last you longer once you learn more stuff, I was on the same spot researching cameras not long ago, and was told by pros to stay away from the 3000 if you can go to the 5000.
 

sneaky77

Member
So I have a canon 28-135mmf/3.5-5.6 IS USM lense. And I can see a macro option in the focusing options, but can't seem to figure out if its really macro or not, cause I can't seem to do much with it.

any suggestions
 

ThatObviousUser

ὁ αἴσχιστος παῖς εἶ
sneaky77 said:
If you're set on Nikon, go with d5000 over the d3000, it will last you longer once you learn more stuff, I was on the same spot researching cameras not long ago, and was told by pros to stay away from the 3000 if you can go to the 5000.

I'm not set on Nikon, it was just the first company I gravitated to. Does Canon offer anything similar? I heard their build quality on the lower-end was questionable.
 

sneaky77

Member
Andrex said:
I'm not set on Nikon, it was just the first company I gravitated to. Does Canon offer anything similar? I heard their build quality on the lower-end was questionable.

I think the d5000 is pretty comparable to the t2i or t1i, even in build quality, I held both models in my hands at the store and they both felt way too light for me, but the real issue was too small in my hands.. best thing to do is go to a store and hold them and play around with them.
 

ThatObviousUser

ὁ αἴσχιστος παῖς εἶ
sneaky77 said:
I think the d5000 is pretty comparable to the t2i or t1i, even in build quality, I held both models in my hands at the store and they both felt way too light for me, but the real issue was too small in my hands.. best thing to do is go to a store and hold them and play around with them.

I'll try that then!

So you're recommending either the D5000 or the t2i/t1i?
 

golem

Member
captive said:
I was wondering who the RAID group was. lol
You have some great stuff... notice that most recent ones are from your EP2? I also find myself using my EP1 more and more these days.
 
Ok big question guys and gals.

I am moving from mac back to windows. I need to export my library along with my keywords and edits. What is the best way for exporting my data and loading it back into LR3 in windows?
 
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