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The Official Gundam Thread of Gunpla, Origins, and 35 Years of GUNDAMUUUU!

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nicoga3000

nicoga3000

Saint Nic
borghe said:
ok, after I finish up the two models I have left I want to get one MG or RG (first of either) under my belt before the weather shapes up and spring fever sets in. so looking for some help. What are some of your favorite Master Grades?
Click to expand...

  • MG Shin Musha was one of the most satisfying assemblies I've ever done. It was a pleasure to build and I'm SUPER excited to do a custom paint on it.
  • If you're into painting and really modelling as a whole, MG Sinanju seems to get a ton of praise. It's a great model to do candy colors on, too.
  • MG Nu Ver Ka is a super clean and snappy looking model. It's also considered one of the top MG kits available (from polls and various blogs).

I usually search Gunpla TV on YouTube for reviews on kits. Those guys do a great job reviewing new kits as they come in.
 
N

NEO0MJ

Member
borghe said:
ok, after I finish up the two models I have left I want to get one MG or RG (first of either) under my belt before the weather shapes up and spring fever sets in. so looking for some help. What are some of your favorite Master Grades?
Click to expand...

The only MG figure I have is The O but I love it. Also have an EX-S but I haven't built anything other than the core fighter, I'm too scared to mess something up. Took out of the closet now though and I'll see what I can do.
 
E

Enron

Banned
Zerojul said:
Awesome technique. I'd like to try that sometime. Does anyone know if the MG Sinanju uses stickers like the HGUC one does ?
Click to expand...

This will be 1000% easier on the MG Sinanju since the pieces aren't microscopic.

Also, don't use testors gloss black in the can. All of my problems with this were because i didn't airbrush and chose the worst of all gloss enamels to spray.
 
nicoga3000

nicoga3000

Saint Nic
PaulExcellent said:
Hand brushing/cans for now. I want to get a feel for it first.
Click to expand...

Just remember that hand painting can be a pain. Don't let it discourage you! When I painted figures for fun, it was a very different experience from painting larger things like Gundam and Cars and such.

There's a great blog/article out there about getting really nice looking kits with only panel lines, decals, and top coats. It's definitely worth checking out.

CorvoSol said:
I've never tried actually painting my models. Stickers are so damn hard that painting seems like it'd be a nightmare.
Click to expand...

Stickers are garbage. Water slide decals are great for those sorts of details. Painting, however, is where the real hobby is for me. I've done lots of different painting and modelling sorts of hobbies, and I can assure you that stickers are probably the worst thing ever.

Airbrushing, cans, or hand painting is definitely the "next step" in the hobby. It's not for everyone (and that's why the article I mention above is great for people who don't have time or desire to dedicate to that aspect of it), but if you DO climb down that rabbit hole, you start to have this new found drive and dedication to your creations.
 
N

NEO0MJ

Member
Enron said:
Fuck hand brushing unless its a REAL small piece.

Buy some cans, blue-tack, and bbq skewers and spray that shit.
Click to expand...

Wish I could do that. I tried spraying a week ago but it went terribly wrong. I wasted the entire can before I even finished painting the parts! Plus dust got stuck and bubbles formed, even though I washed the parts before spraying them! Guess I should have waited for better weather.
 
P

PaulExcellent

Member
nicoga3000 said:
Just remember that hand painting can be a pain. Don't let it discourage you! When I painted figures for fun, it was a very different experience from painting larger things like Gundam and Cars and such.

There's a great blog/article out there about getting really nice looking kits with only panel lines, decals, and top coats. It's definitely worth checking out.
Click to expand...

Thanks! I've hand-painted a few other Gundam models back in the day, but nothing like the one I just ordered. It's rather intimidating, but I'm looking forward to the challenge!

I just wish the EVA models were cheaper. :/
 
J

Jaeger

Member
sZt268g.jpg

tedayCm.jpg
Click to expand...

:O So purty.
 
D

distantmantra

Member
Megalosaro said:
http://www.siliconera.com/2014/02/1...missing-link-hd-remakes-gundam-spinoff-games/

Missing Link is going to include hd versions of blue destiny abd zeonic front and a few other games.

Thats legit.
Click to expand...

The storylines are being incorporated into Missing Link and will play using that game's engine. They won't be HD ports of the original games.

Famitsu reports Mobile Suit Gundam Side Story: Missing Link will have a compilation of HD remakes of other spinoff games including Mobile Suit Gundam Side Story: The Blue Destiny, Mobile Suit Gundam Side Story: Space, to the End of a Flash, Mobile Suit Gundam: Zeonic Front, and Mobile Suit Gundam: Lost War Chronicles. The HD remakes will have the same voice actors from the original releases with revised gameplay systems based on Missing Link.
Read more at http://www.siliconera.com/2014/02/1...kes-gundam-spinoff-games/#DRUSD4k4cP8Kp1mK.99
Click to expand...

There is a Famitsu scan showing what Blue Destiny looks like in the game. It's not the Saturn original.
 
C

Crimsonlink

Member
AlabastreAizo said:
I'm looking forward to seeing that Sinanju finished, Enron! The chest looks phenomenal!


Panda? Are you going to paint it like a panda? that would be silly/cool.

Vita or PS3?
Click to expand...

There was a Vita version?!? Looking it up nope there wasn't.

I think you are talking about the new one. Shin Gundam Musou which is #4 actually that came out for Vita and PS3.

Anyways I have #3 for the PS3 and need help with the online portion. Then I can platinum it.
 
E

Enron

Banned
Ken said:
Can you link me to paints on Amazon you would use?
Click to expand...

if you are talking about spray cans, any of the following will do.

Testors' Modelmaster - best selection of colors, especially real-world military ones. Mostly enamels. I used a lot of this in the past when I was doing gunpla.

Tamiya - also a large selection of colors, including military ones. I believe all of these are Lacquers. Really nice, probably better than Modelmasters but less color selection Recommended Amazon link

Krylon - i hear people use this a lot, but there's a few kinds of Krylon and one or a couple of them don't work very well. I can never remember which is which so I just avoid all of them.

Humbrol - kinda rare, but they do have cans. A lot of people like Humbrol. I've never used it.

Citadel - the warhammer folks also do paint and they have spray cans. I've never used it.

Mr. Color - the paint gunpla nerds swear by. I think its probably next to impossible to find it in a spray in the US, except for the Clear Top Coat sprays. Never used the paint, only the topcoat.
 
Aizo

Aizo

Banned
Crimsonlink said:
There was a Vita version?!? Looking it up nope there wasn't.

I think you are talking about the new one. Shin Gundam Musou which is #4 actually that came out for Vita and PS3.

Anyways I have #3 for the PS3 and need help with the online portion. Then I can platinum it.
Click to expand...

My bad. I misread that ^^;

Yeah, I was talking about Shin.
I have 3 on 360 completed... I'd totally play that. Too bad...
 
K

Ken

Member
Enron said:
.
Click to expand...

iLOb8nYOSjYCI.png


:(

Guess they're considered hazardous and can't be shipped internationally, according to another store's website. Oh well.

I ask about Home Depot cause that's the only thing I have around here that has a chance of carrying any type of paints.
 
K

Ken

Member
Enron said:
Internationally? Where are you? Surely wherever you are there's a hobby store willing to ship...
Click to expand...

Some remote island in the Pacific. Ironically I'm pretty close to Japan but shipping flammable items is a big no-no for anyone so I'm kind of out of luck. There actually used to be a single hobby store that carried Gunpla here but they closed down years ago.
 
nicoga3000

nicoga3000

Saint Nic
Ken said:
Some remote island in the Pacific. Ironically I'm pretty close to Japan but shipping flammable items is a big no-no for anyone so I'm kind of out of luck. There actually used to be a single hobby store that carried Gunpla here but they closed down years ago.
Click to expand...

If you're set on using spray cans, you are probably SOL. Your location alone is reason enough to at least consider an airbrush if you're interested in the hobby.

They make a lot of really great airbrush ready paints that are water-based, so they can be shipped all over. The problem with that route is that it will cost more to get started because you'll need an airbrush, a compressor, and paints. I decided to bite the bullet just over a year ago and have been VERY happy with the results. No need to buy spray cans ever again really (except occasionally primer since there are a few great spray primers out there).
 
K

Ken

Member
nicoga3000 said:
If you're set on using spray cans, you are probably SOL. Your location alone is reason enough to at least consider an airbrush if you're interested in the hobby.

They make a lot of really great airbrush ready paints that are water-based, so they can be shipped all over. The problem with that route is that it will cost more to get started because you'll need an airbrush, a compressor, and paints. I decided to bite the bullet just over a year ago and have been VERY happy with the results. No need to buy spray cans ever again really (except occasionally primer since there are a few great spray primers out there).
Click to expand...

Are the paints used special types or can I hopefully get some online.
 
nicoga3000

nicoga3000

Saint Nic
Ken said:
Are the paints used special types or can I hopefully get some online.
Click to expand...

The two airbrush specific paints that I can think of right away would be Vallejo Model Air and Badger Minitaire. Vallejo Model and Game colors can also be airbrushed, but you need to thin them. Some people like Createx Colors, I've just never used them. They don't have a super huge line, but they've got some interesting pops to them.

The big thing about all of the above I rattled off? Non-toxic, so that means you should have no trouble getting them shipped to you.
 
N

NEO0MJ

Member
nicoga3000 said:
They make a lot of really great airbrush ready paints that are water-based, so they can be shipped all over. The problem with that route is that it will cost more to get started because you'll need an airbrush, a compressor, and paints.
Click to expand...

What brand of compressor did yo buy and how much did it cost you? I've been seriously considering going that route myself due to the cost of buying spray-paints.
 
B

borghe

Loves the Greater Toronto Area
ok, while we are talking about painting...

my Valvrare Hito model has clear "fx" parts. The box shows them pink, but they are just transparent plastic. So how do I go about painting them so that they are colored but still transparent?
 
N

NEO0MJ

Member
borghe said:
ok, while we are talking about painting...

my Valvrare Hito model has clear "fx" parts. The box shows them pink, but they are just transparent plastic. So how do I go about painting them so that they are colored but still transparent?
Click to expand...

Can you show us pictures of the model itself and the clear part? An easy way is to use clear paint like the ones used for glass but you can also paint the base of the part of it's flat.
 
nicoga3000

nicoga3000

Saint Nic
NEO0MJ said:
What brand of compressor did yo buy and how much did it cost you? I've been seriously considering going that route myself due to the cost of buying spray-paints.
Click to expand...

So I spent a little more and went with this:

Grex Quiet Portable Compressor

The reason? The thing is super quiet. I originally bought a compressor from like Walmart or Home Depot or something...The thing was INSANELY loud. If I were working in the garage all the time, I could probably make it work. But since I work inside, there was NO WAY my wife would be OK with it. Hell, I wasn't OK with it.

They make a whole slew of quiet air compressors, but this was the only one I could get locally at a Hobbytown USA store (it cost me $200 there as well, which surprised me since they often mark things up). The guy who does the Wargamers Consortium YouTube channel has a black one - maybe an Iwata? I looked into it, but it was more expensive than mine at the time.

I like mine because it's light, super quiet, has a built in moisture tap, and a great pressure control valve. I did have an issue where the moisture tap wasn't getting suction because it was too loose when I got it. I called Grex customer support and they sent me a new one free of charge in a few days. The guys was super nice, too.
 
N

NEO0MJ

Member
borghe said:
the pink parts in that image are clear on the sprue.
Click to expand...

Yeah, you're gonna have to buy some clear paint. I'm sure most hobby shops sell them, just make sure to get a micutre that's not too thick or it won't be as transparent as the sample above.
nicoga3000 said:
So I spent a little more and went with this:

Grex Quiet Portable Compressor

The reason? The thing is super quiet. I originally bought a compressor from like Walmart or Home Depot or something...The thing was INSANELY loud. If I were working in the garage all the time, I could probably make it work. But since I work inside, there was NO WAY my wife would be OK with it. Hell, I wasn't OK with it.
Click to expand...

Thanks. I'll check ut the hobby store ans see what they have.
 
L

Lostconfused

Member
borghe said:
the pink parts in that image are clear on the sprue.
Click to expand...

I read about painting clear pieces of model kits such as eyes with candy coat paint or something. You'd have to do some more research but as far as I can understand it you can spray paint those clear pieces with semi transparent paint that will give it color without turning them completely opaque.

I might be wrong about the opaque part. I think the whole process involved applying a silver base coat to make the piece more reflective and then applying a semi transparent paint on top.
 
E

Enron

Banned
Ken said:
Some remote island in the Pacific. Ironically I'm pretty close to Japan but shipping flammable items is a big no-no for anyone so I'm kind of out of luck. There actually used to be a single hobby store that carried Gunpla here but they closed down years ago.
Click to expand...

Ah. Since you mentioned Home Depot, and having worked on projects for Home Depot at my job, I know which island of which you speak, heh. Ok, yeah, that changes things.

You can try figuring out which Krylon sprays are acceptable for plastic kits and try those, but your color options will be extremely limited. otherwise, i'd suggest you get an airbrush and a compressor so that way you can get the bottled paints.

Its easier to airbrush with acrylic (water-based paints, easier cleanup, and less toxic). You can thin it with 91% rubbing alcohol. A lot of people love Tamiya acrylics. those should be fairly easy to get in a bottle.
 
K

Ken

Member
nicoga3000 said:
The two airbrush specific paints that I can think of right away would be Vallejo Model Air and Badger Minitaire. Vallejo Model and Game colors can also be airbrushed, but you need to thin them. Some people like Createx Colors, I've just never used them. They don't have a super huge line, but they've got some interesting pops to them.

The big thing about all of the above I rattled off? Non-toxic, so that means you should have no trouble getting them shipped to you.
Click to expand...

Enron said:
Ah. Since you mentioned Home Depot, and having worked on projects for Home Depot at my job, I know which island of which you speak, heh. Ok, yeah, that changes things.

You can try figuring out which Krylon sprays are acceptable for plastic kits and try those, but your color options will be extremely limited. otherwise, i'd suggest you get an airbrush and a compressor so that way you can get the bottled paints.

Its easier to airbrush with acrylic (water-based paints, easier cleanup, and less toxic). You can thin it with 91% rubbing alcohol. A lot of people love Tamiya acrylics. those should be fairly easy to get in a bottle.
Click to expand...

Hmm, thanks guys. Are there top coat applications without the spray can too?

I probably can't get into this airbrushing thing for a few months until I can get a little more freedom with funds but I'll definitely keep it in mind.
 
nicoga3000

nicoga3000

Saint Nic
Ken said:
Hmm, thanks guys. Are there top coat applications without the spray can too?

I probably can't get into this airbrushing thing for a few months until I can get a little more freedom with funds but I'll definitely keep it in mind.
Click to expand...

You can find this (or some form of it) at your local big box store. It's just a very simple floor polish:

FutureFloorPolish.JPG

Also, I've made progress on my paint rack! I re-cut the shorter frame members to fit between the longer ones and screwed them into place. Tonight I'm going to start putting up the shelves and prepare to paint the shelves and hang it on the wall.

IMG_20140219_074606.jpg
 
B

borghe

Loves the Greater Toronto Area
last thing for model building today... I am getting to be unafraid of the metal file :D soft slow unidirectional strokes... don't flatten, and then move to 280, 320, 600, and 2000 grit papers to smooth.

also don't know if there are other thoughts on this... but it seems to me to make sense (at least on the HG stuff) to put pieces together first and THEN file down the nubs. this saves time by not having to put too much effort into areas that are impossible to see, and also saves time when you have two pieces connecting together with nubs in the same spot and you can just file them down as one.
 
nicoga3000

nicoga3000

Saint Nic
borghe said:
last thing for model building today... I am getting to be unafraid of the metal file :D soft slow unidirectional strokes... don't flatten, and then move to 280, 320, 600, and 2000 grit papers to smooth.

also don't know if there are other thoughts on this... but it seems to me to make sense (at least on the HG stuff) to put pieces together first and THEN file down the nubs. this saves time by not having to put too much effort into areas that are impossible to see, and also saves time when you have two pieces connecting together with nubs in the same spot and you can just file them down as one.
Click to expand...

My honest take on filing...

First off, I make my own filing sticks. Popsicle sticks with sand paper glued to them.

Second, you can go both ways with filing nubs depending on the approach you take to finishing your model. I snip the parts from the sprue, use my xacto to cut the extra nubs off, test fit, and then sand. Some people like to sand first, but that seems like a waste of time to me. This also allows me to decide what parts get glued, what parts get putty (for seam lines or whatever), and also which parts get painted what.

And finally, I'm going to be honest with you...Unless you're entering a model into a show, you can probably get away with just two grits of sand paper - one low grit and one high grit. I actually just use a middle grit and skip both low and high (unless I'm sanding down putty for seams). I paint my models, so as long as it looks decent, primer + paint will work out any super small differences.
 
B

borghe

Loves the Greater Toronto Area
I actually thought about that; that finer grits wouldn't matter at all really with painting... but in this case (or any case yet) I am not painting... so the finished surface it what ends up getting displayed, hence the 2000 grit paper.

I was scared of the file initially... and tried to use the knife to clean EVERYTHING up.. lol.. the end result were either little smoothed over "lumps" or scraped/rough areas that couldn't really be smoothed out... or a slipped knife cut........................... :\

but yeah, I totally get what you are saying... maybe some day I will move to painting.. in which case I can see like a 150-or-280 and 600 being perfectly fine.
 
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