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The Official Gundam Thread of Gunpla, Origins, and 35 Years of GUNDAMUUUU!

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Look what came in the mail today for your truly:
9Kplb8B.jpg

Is that the Gears of War font?
 

duckroll

Member
Uuuuuuuugggggggggghhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh.

I just read that they're doing an exclusive Premium Bandai online store release for Repair mode parts for the RG Exia. Fucking Bandai scumbags!
 

Beth Cyra

Member
Uuuuuuuugggggggggghhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh.

I just read that they're doing an exclusive Premium Bandai online store release for Repair mode parts for the RG Exia. Fucking Bandai scumbags!
You aren't shocked are ya?

They online'd RX-78's weapons and Strike Freedom's Wing Effects. I had just figured from the announcement Exia would have this happen.

I fully expect the Seven Sword G parts to suffer the same fate when OO Raiser gets announced for a November release.
 
What makes the Origin so good is that it is drawn by the animation director of the original series, which allows there to be be some visual continuity between the series and the manga without it coming across as imitation.

Yasuhiko is a fantastic artist. Probably my favorite anime designer.
 
Guys I'm so fucking happy right now.

I beat the Dynasty Warriors Gundam 3 DLC "True Dynasty Warrior Gundam... May Your Life Be Eternal"

It is the single most cheapest and hardest map in the game. Enemies 3 shot you. So yeah it took a bunch of tries but I managed it! :D :D :D
 

Beth Cyra

Member
Guys I'm so fucking happy right now.

I beat the Dynasty Warriors Gundam 3 DLC "True Dynasty Warrior Gundam... May Your Life Be Eternal"

It is the single most cheapest and hardest map in the game. Enemies 3 shot you. So yeah it took a bunch of tries but I managed it! :D :D :D
Nice. Loved me some DWG 3, Zero and Knight Gundam are stupidly OP.
 

Enron

Banned
Uuuuuuuugggggggggghhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh.

I just read that they're doing an exclusive Premium Bandai online store release for Repair mode parts for the RG Exia. Fucking Bandai scumbags!

B-Club? Enjoy paying $$$$$$$ for a set of parts on yahoo japan!
 

Protag

Banned
G-gaf, if i've havent built a kit before, is a real grade 1/144 Gundam Aeug mk.II too much for me?

Thenprice is great and has gotten great reviews, but like i said im intimidated by this notion of building a bit.

Also, would it be mandatory to spend extra money on on paint cans, or is that optional?

Because i just want to build it out of the box.

Bandai Hobby #08 RX-178 Gundam MK II (AEUG) 1/144, Real Grade by Bandai Hobby http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007EAIF6A/?tag=neogaf0e-20
 
Also, would it be mandatory to spend extra money on on paint cans, or is that optional?

Because i just want to build it out of the box.

RG kits look awesome without painting. You'll want a fine tip marker for panel lining though, which is very easy to do.

Also you obviously need tools like plastic nippers and a hobby knife.
 

Protag

Banned
RG kits look awesome without painting. You'll want a fine tip marker for panel lining though, which is very easy to do.

Also you obviously need tools like plastic nippers and a hobby knife.

I heard those were optional, as parts snap out of the wire frame, and into place
 

nicoga3000

Saint Nic
You can get away with only panel lining and top coating a kit and it will look fantastic.

The only necessary hobby tools you need for any Gunpla would be a set of plastic nippers and a hobby knife as EvilKatarn said.
 

andymcc

Banned
I heard those were optional, as parts snap out of the wire frame, and into place

i just built the titans version of this a few weeks ago, it was my first kit. definitely doable as a first time one but you definitely shouldn't cheap out on nippers, pieces would snap off and look awkward as you'd have these plastic pegs sticking out on the completed model. here are some pieces that require you cutting tiny connective parts, which you would need the knife for (xacto is good). furthermore, you probably should get sandpaper/file because sometimes you need to file protrusions down so stuff will fit in certain gates.

altogether: these different tools will realistically run you $15 at the highest.
 

nicoga3000

Saint Nic
i just built the titans version of this a few weeks ago, it was my first kit. definitely doable as a first time one but you definitely shouldn't cheap out on nippers, pieces would snap off and look awkward as you'd have these plastic pegs sticking out on the completed model. here are some pieces that require you cutting tiny connective parts, which you would need the knife for (xacto is good). furthermore, you probably should get sandpaper/file because sometimes you need to file protrusions down so stuff will fit in certain gates.

altogether: these different tools will realistically run you $15 at the highest.

Yeah, you can get away without nippers... But they run like $10. If you're serious about the hobby in any sense, it's worth it to buy nippers and a hobby/xacto knife.
 

Ken

Member
You can get away with only panel lining and top coating a kit and it will look fantastic.

The only necessary hobby tools you need for any Gunpla would be a set of plastic nippers and a hobby knife as EvilKatarn said.

Is it still worthwhile to panel line without top coating? Top coating just protects the panel lining from deteriorating right?

Same with using sandpaper after cutting out parts? I'm reading this and I'm confused if it will look better or worse using sandpaper without topcoating.

http://goodguydangunpla.blogspot.com/2013/08/building-for-beginners-tips-and-tricks.html
 

nicoga3000

Saint Nic
Is it still worthwhile to panel line without top coating? Top coating just protects the panel lining from deteriorating right?

Same with using sandpaper after cutting out parts? I'm reading this and I'm confused if it will look better or worse using sandpaper without topcoating.

http://goodguydangunpla.blogspot.com/2013/08/building-for-beginners-tips-and-tricks.html

Actually, top coating also helps make the kit look less like a toy and more like a display piece. It reduces that sheen of plastic.

The sandpaper thing is mostly to get the nubs down. It's really for those painting their kits. If you are just going to topcoat and panel line, you can probably get away with not sanding to be completely honest.
 

Ken

Member
Actually, top coating also helps make the kit look less like a toy and more like a display piece. It reduces that sheen of plastic.

The sandpaper thing is mostly to get the nubs down. It's really for those painting their kits. If you are just going to topcoat and panel line, you can probably get away with not sanding to be completely honest.

Bleh okay. Well I seem to have found an ebay seller who can ship cans of Mr Hobby Topcoat to me by seafreight. Wonder if I should go for it. @_@

How many kits would one can last?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/MR-HOBBY-GUNZE-TOP-COAT-SPRAY-86ml-GLOSS-CLEAR-B501-/190738383508

Edit: Oh well, ordered 3 cans of matte spray. Will be here by the end of next month. Figured I might as well give it a shot. D:
 

mingus

Member
When I do my models, I go:

- Paint
- Top coat (Future/gloss)
- Panel line
- Top coat (Future/gloss)
- Decals
- Top coat (Future/gloss)

Optional step after final top coat = matte coat.

Do you ever find that too many coats affects the fit of the pieces of the mobility of parts? The first time I tried using a matte coat I got lazy and used krylon matte finish and it was hard to get close fitting parts to sit flush. Moving certain pieces also seemed to scrape against the coat.
 

nicoga3000

Saint Nic
Do you ever find that too many coats affects the fit of the pieces of the mobility of parts? The first time I tried using a matte coat I got lazy and used krylon matte finish and it was hard to get close fitting parts to sit flush. Moving certain pieces also seemed to scrape against the coat.

I've personally never had an issue, but I know some people have. I'm not terribly sure how to make it work out. A few things I can say, though.

First, my top coats are all VERY light mists. I don't completely drench the part for that exact reason. I just load some Future into my airbrush and mist the part. If I'm doing a spray can, I just tap the nozzle to get a burst of coat.

Also worth noting, while I don't know the cure time of Future or any sort of top coat, I'd say wait a minimum of 24 hours before you assemble and start posing. 36-48 is probably safer. I'm going to do some research, though. I know you always want to let your paints cure before moving on as it prevents potential chipping issues there. I would assume the same can be said for top coats.

For real inspiration and answers, I would seriously consider joining Gundam Eclipse. If you have no desire to post, just browse the WIP forum and the finished products. They have SO much experience and knowledge, it's crazy. I'm still learning everyday on that site. Any question you can think to ask has an answer by someone on that site.

They also host group builds and challenges - 72 hour builds, weekend builds, etc. It's insane to see the results these guys get in 3 days of building and painting. It's also impressive because you can see how they can take shortcuts to still get fantastic displays. Obviously not competition quality, but display quality EASY. Check that site out in your spare time.
 

Scavenger

Member
G-gaf, if i've havent built a kit before, is a real grade 1/144 Gundam Aeug mk.II too much for me?

Thenprice is great and has gotten great reviews, but like i said im intimidated by this notion of building a bit.

Also, would it be mandatory to spend extra money on on paint cans, or is that optional?

Because i just want to build it out of the box.

Bandai Hobby #08 RX-178 Gundam MK II (AEUG) 1/144, Real Grade by Bandai Hobby http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007EAIF6A/?tag=neogaf0e-20
You may have some trouble cutting the vinyl tube, but other than that it's not a hard kit. Just be careful with the the antenna of the attachable head vulcanpod. It can break easily if you're not careful.

It's a shame there's still no RG Hyaku Shiki. IMO the best MS design in the Zeta series. I've got the Chogokin Hyaku Shiki which is one of the coolest action figures ever. 1/144 scale, fucking die cast metal, gold chrome, great articulation and even the fricking Mega Bazooka Launcher.
 
A new Gundam The Origin manga was just announced for Gundam Ace. It's called Amuro 0082, but I don't know if Yoshikazu Yasuhiko is working on it or not or if it's being done by someone else. I'm not a fan of Zeta Gundam Define, so I hope it's not being done by Hiroyuki Kitazume.

I hope we get some new announcements regarding The Origin animation project soon. It would be great if it were a new show. Build Fighters is only 26 episodes long, isn't it? The Origin would make an excellent follow-up, especially considering that it's the 35th anniversary this year.
 

NEO0MJ

Member
When I do my models, I go:

- Paint
- Top coat (Future/gloss)
- Panel line
- Top coat (Future/gloss)
- Decals
- Top coat (Future/gloss)

Optional step after final top coat = matte coat.

When you coat, how do you split the model kit? That's one thing that I'm confused about.
 

nicoga3000

Saint Nic
When you coat, how do you split the model kit? That's one thing that I'm confused about.

If I understand your question correctly, I actually don't assemble until all parts are fully painted, lined, and top coated. Once everything has dried and cured, that's when I do my assembly. Mostly because you do run the risk of chipping paint.

Some folks at GE.net have suggested that during your test fit, you note the areas where you'll grind after painting. Those areas should be lightly sanded to reduce the chance of grinding. But some folks who don't pose and just glue their models into place will do a total top coat after positioning on the base.
 

NEO0MJ

Member
If I understand your question correctly, I actually don't assemble until all parts are fully painted, lined, and top coated. Once everything has dried and cured, that's when I do my assembly. Mostly because you do run the risk of chipping paint.

So you top coat parts after building them, before assembling the whole kit. That's good to know. I'm building the EX-S now but I want to make sure I'm doing things right. I won't paint it as I'm too afraid of messing it up but I think I can handle coating it with a matte spray. Right now the core fighter is ready so I'll spray it before assembling the chest around it.
 

nicoga3000

Saint Nic
So you top coat parts after building them, before assembling the whole kit. That's good to know. I'm building the EX-S now but I want to make sure I'm doing things right. I won't paint it as I'm too afraid of messing it up but I think I can handle coating it with a matte spray. Right now the core fighter is ready so I'll spray it before assembling the chest around it.

Yeah, you want to top coat first as you're looking to protect the kit and hit all the areas. A kit with a lot of nooks would be hard to top coat effectively once assembled, so most folks do it before assembly. As I said, this is somewhat subjective and can vary from kit to kit, but in those cases, it will be pretty clear.
 

mingus

Member
I've personally never had an issue, but I know some people have. I'm not terribly sure how to make it work out. A few things I can say, though.

First, my top coats are all VERY light mists. I don't completely drench the part for that exact reason. I just load some Future into my airbrush and mist the part. If I'm doing a spray can, I just tap the nozzle to get a burst of coat.

Also worth noting, while I don't know the cure time of Future or any sort of top coat, I'd say wait a minimum of 24 hours before you assemble and start posing. 36-48 is probably safer. I'm going to do some research, though. I know you always want to let your paints cure before moving on as it prevents potential chipping issues there. I would assume the same can be said for top coats.

For real inspiration and answers, I would seriously consider joining Gundam Eclipse. If you have no desire to post, just browse the WIP forum and the finished products. They have SO much experience and knowledge, it's crazy. I'm still learning everyday on that site. Any question you can think to ask has an answer by someone on that site.

They also host group builds and challenges - 72 hour builds, weekend builds, etc. It's insane to see the results these guys get in 3 days of building and painting. It's also impressive because you can see how they can take shortcuts to still get fantastic displays. Obviously not competition quality, but display quality EASY. Check that site out in your spare time.

That site looks awesome, thanks.
 

nicoga3000

Saint Nic
That site looks awesome, thanks.

Absolutely - it's a fantastic group of INCREDIBLY talented model builders. Lots of tutorials, WIP, finished projects, release info, etc. It focuses mostly on Gundam, but there are a lot of non-Gunpla as well - cars, ships, other mecha, etc. Enjoy!
 

Protag

Banned
You may have some trouble cutting the vinyl tube, but other than that it's not a hard kit. Just be careful with the the antenna of the attachable head vulcanpod. It can break easily if you're not careful.

It's a shame there's still no RG Hyaku Shiki. IMO the best MS design in the Zeta series. I've got the Chogokin Hyaku Shiki which is one of the coolest action figures ever. 1/144 scale, fucking die cast metal, gold chrome, great articulation and even the fricking Mega Bazooka Launcher.

Damn b, i was looking for HS, and couldnt find it, favorite MS next to Rx-0 and Nu Gundam
 
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