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The Official Gundam Thread of Gunpla, Origins, and 35 Years of GUNDAMUUUU!

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I actually liked Zeta a lot.
Don't worry it's cool. I find it funny how an argument is always solved by smacking the dogshit out of that person in that show.
 
I liked Paptimus, but I think Haman was way better with a lot of the same character traits.
Haman knew how to toy with men. Paptimus pretty much toyed well with both genders actually, dude even got Yazan to like him. I'll have to run through ZZ again to get more of a sense of Haman, because I haven't seen that series for a good long time. I liked her a lot in Zeta, but I know her role is much bigger in ZZ.
 

Acid08

Banned
Haman knew how to toy with men. Paptimus pretty much toyed well with both genders actually, dude even got Yazan to like him. I'll have to run through ZZ again to get more of a sense of Haman, because I haven't seen that series for a good long time. I liked her a lot in Zeta, but I know her role is much bigger in ZZ.

Haman is amazing in ZZ. One of the best villains in all Gundam imo, she's characterized very well.
 
is this the right thread to ask for gunpla painting tips and questions about paint types, topcoat, curing time, panel lining wash, etc? watching gbf make me go and finish my long neglected gunpla, especially since Shin Musha Gundam show up in episode 1, hahaha.
fXsP4CQ.jpg


anyway, I want to try painting gunpla, I bought a cheap SD Sengoku Astray so it's okay if I messed up. I also bought tamiya spray paint for the base color, spray the whole runner with it and my plan is too add a little bit spray later to hide any noticable sprue mark.

so reading around the internet for guides, I figure the step would be like this,

1. base paint with Tamiya spraycan
2. assemble the model
3. hand paint the detail with enamel/acrylic paint (especially since SD kit is very simple with only 3 color, it need to be painted for additional detail)
4. spray with gloss coat (I had Tamiya TS-13 clear spraycan, not sure if I can use this)
5. use enamel wash for panel lining (also had Tamiya enamel wash for this, so no need to mix my own wash)
6. final coat with Tamiya TS-80 Flat Clear to get that matte look.

is that a generally correct order? I'm really not sure about the overlaying the paints and coat and wash etc. last time I tried to use enamel wash on model that has been spraypainted, the wash didn't really fill the line nicely but they actually seep through the base paint, when I tried to clean them with enamel thinner and cotton bud, it also lift the base paint underneath it. making a mess of everything :(

I'm not sure if that happen because I didn't leave the gunpla long enough after spray painting them so the paint hasn't had enough time to cure properly. another website also mention that I need to spray gloss/semi gloss coat first before enamel wash. this bring me to question about curing time. how long should I leave my gunpla for the paint to properly dry before I can work on it again? there's a lot of step in my list and not sure when it's safe to do anything.

like, how long between the initial base color spray paint until I can safely hand paint the model. then how long after handpainting can I safely applied the glosscoat, and after that, the enamel wash, and the final matt coat?

sorry for the long post, kinda excited with gunpla again, haven't made one since the gundam build fighter season 1, lol. if this is not the right thread for this, please link to the proper thread. thank you.
 

NEO0MJ

Member
It's mostly right, but never spray the whole runner. First step should actually be washing the runner, and then building. You should also sand the nubs leftover from cutting the parts from the runner and maybe use plastic cement to glue two parts together in order to remove the seam lines. You should also use a primer, not any paint for the base. Then you can add colored paint.
 
It's mostly right, but never spray the whole runner. First step should actually be washing the runner, and then building. You should also sand the nubs leftover from cutting the parts from the runner and maybe use plastic cement to glue two parts together in order to remove the seam lines. You should also use a primer, not any paint for the base. Then you can add colored paint.

so how long should I wait between painting? after the primer, can I just wait 15-30 minutes and start spraying the color paint, or do I had to wait for a day or more? same with the gloss coating etc.
 

NEO0MJ

Member
so how long should I wait between painting? after the primer, can I just wait 15-30 minutes and start spraying the color paint, or do I had to wait for a day or more? same with the gloss coating etc.

If I remember right an hour is good enough. For the Gloss I think it takes longer.
 
If I remember right an hour is good enough. For the Gloss I think it takes longer.

thanks for the answer. I already paint the color directly on the runner though, that was yesterday. XD
oh well, next time I'll try using primer first and see the differences. going to go buy some acrylic/enamel paint soon, probably tomorrow. last time I go, I think my hobby store had more acrylic than enamel though. I can still use that acrylic for hand painting right?
 

NEO0MJ

Member
thanks for the answer. I already paint the color directly on the runner though, that was yesterday. XD
oh well, next time I'll try using primer first and see the differences. going to go buy some acrylic/enamel paint soon, probably tomorrow. last time I go, I think my hobby store had more acrylic than enamel though. I can still use that acrylic for hand painting right?

Yeah, no problem with acrylics at all.
 
so how long should I wait between painting? after the primer, can I just wait 15-30 minutes and start spraying the color paint, or do I had to wait for a day or more? same with the gloss coating etc.

I like to give primer at least 24 hours to cure. It just gives a bit more of security if I need to mask something off later on.


Edit: on the topic of Zeta. My biggest gripe is stupid but it bugs me. Why would the a Earth Federation start using fucking Zackus? I know Anaheim bought up the Zeon producer but that is fucking dumb. I feel like they did that just so the Titans can have mobile suits with mono eyes so we know they are the bad guys. Really irked me.
 
I like to give primer at least 24 hours to cure. It just gives a bit more of security if I need to mask something off later on.


Edit: on the topic of Zeta. My biggest gripe is stupid but it bugs me. Why would the a Earth Federation start using fucking Zackus? I know Anaheim bought up the Zeon producer but that is fucking dumb. I feel like they did that just so the Titans can have mobile suits with mono eyes so we know they are the bad guys. Really irked me.
Someone on here can probably correct me, but I thought the in canon reason was because Zaku's were easier to operate. Watching some of the early fight scenes in Zeta kind of show that the Titan's pilots were scrubs at times with one slipping on a downed GM and not being able to keep up with Roberto and Quattro in their Rick Dias'.
 

Ekid

Member
So I just resumed my way through the UC after a few month of hiatus, and started ZZ yesterday.
I finished the the first four and damn, I just can't stop laughing every 5min, that stuff is just too good (that marshmallow guy srsly).
I think i can see why a lot of people were disappointed after Zeta, which I had found to be overrated, maybe because I never really cared about Kamille and Fa.
I mean the original series was miles ahead of Zeta for me, too much drama in Zeta with people I did not give a shit about. Only Aman and Sirocco stand out for me, and Yazan too because he kill people left and right and always survive in the end (and he still survive in the beginning of ZZ).
 

Dead

well not really...yet
fuck that looks hot. But yeah, all the packs will defo be exclusives :(

Hoping for a metal build G-Self.
 
Stage 1 of my Nu plan. Seeing how up until now I've only done RG and transformable HG kits, this is the first time I didn't pull my hair out building a gundam. Lots of fun, and I can't believe how good it looks. Would recommend. Might be my favorite kit... until I do Ver Ka MG Nu.

RxeZeEg.jpg


I've added some color to the top of the fin funnels since I took this pic, but too lazy to take another. lol
 

kiunchbb

www.dictionary.com
is this the right thread to ask for gunpla painting tips and questions about paint types, topcoat, curing time, panel lining wash, etc? watching gbf make me go and finish my long neglected gunpla, especially since Shin Musha Gundam show up in episode 1, hahaha.

anyway, I want to try painting gunpla, I bought a cheap SD Sengoku Astray so it's okay if I messed up. I also bought tamiya spray paint for the base color, spray the whole runner with it and my plan is too add a little bit spray later to hide any noticable sprue mark.

so reading around the internet for guides, I figure the step would be like this,

1. base paint with Tamiya spraycan
2. assemble the model
3. hand paint the detail with enamel/acrylic paint (especially since SD kit is very simple with only 3 color, it need to be painted for additional detail)
4. spray with gloss coat (I had Tamiya TS-13 clear spraycan, not sure if I can use this)
5. use enamel wash for panel lining (also had Tamiya enamel wash for this, so no need to mix my own wash)
6. final coat with Tamiya TS-80 Flat Clear to get that matte look.

is that a generally correct order? I'm really not sure about the overlaying the paints and coat and wash etc. last time I tried to use enamel wash on model that has been spraypainted, the wash didn't really fill the line nicely but they actually seep through the base paint, when I tried to clean them with enamel thinner and cotton bud, it also lift the base paint underneath it. making a mess of everything :(

I'm not sure if that happen because I didn't leave the gunpla long enough after spray painting them so the paint hasn't had enough time to cure properly. another website also mention that I need to spray gloss/semi gloss coat first before enamel wash. this bring me to question about curing time. how long should I leave my gunpla for the paint to properly dry before I can work on it again? there's a lot of step in my list and not sure when it's safe to do anything.

like, how long between the initial base color spray paint until I can safely hand paint the model. then how long after handpainting can I safely applied the glosscoat, and after that, the enamel wash, and the final matt coat?

sorry for the long post, kinda excited with gunpla again, haven't made one since the gundam build fighter season 1, lol. if this is not the right thread for this, please link to the proper thread. thank you.

Okay this count be long, and my English suck, but here we go:

The steps:

-Assemble, and cut down some of the peg so it can be easily disassemble(if it get too loose you can glue it back) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=50fO7_84cts#t=415
Careful though, some parts cannot be disassemble after you lock in it, plan carefully.

-Disassemble, and wash the parts with soapy water

-Primer (Krylon or tamiya spray can will work) - cure time ~1 day, but you can paint over it after an hour or so. I am not sure whether Tamiya spray can requires primer, you may want to do some research.

-Base Paint (Acrylic cure time is one week, tamiya cure time is like 1-4 hours since it is lacquer) Make sure you use mask when you use tamiya spray can, inhaling lacquer paint is no joke!!!

-clear gloss(you don't need to do this if you use Tamiya spray, it is lacquer so it is super tough. If you use enamel or acrylic, your hand will hurts the paint while assembling it)

-Assemble

-detail with acrylic paint (since you going to enamel wash, you have to detail with acrylic). I highly recommend Vallejo acrylic for handpainting, you can thin it with water, and it cure in 2 days.

-clear gloss (acrylic, lacquer top coat can eat into the acrylic or enamel, wait 1 day, Tamiya TS--13 is acrylic according to their website.)

-waterslide(if applicable)

-clear gloss (again acrylic), you want 2 layers even without waterslide, just in case

-Enamel wash

-Matte finish (acrylic)

-You can also use lacquer matte finish, but make sure you put a layer of acrylic clear coat on top of the enamel wash.
-----------------
Regarding enamel thinner, enamel thinner will not eat lacquer paint, it will damage acrylic a bit (when I do panel wash, i always see some base color on my cotton stick, but not enough to completely remove it). The top coat should give some protection against enamel thinner, how wet was your cotton stick when you use it to remove the mistake during panel wash? It should only be a little moist, no liquid should come out when you squeeze it. Are you sure it was enamel thinner?

Also a tip on color white and yellow, I used 3 cans of tamiya white, and couldn't even cover 70% of a MG Rx-78's white parts. I think that's when I broke down and got a airbrush. So either avoid painting white and yellow(the plastic is already white), or get an airbrush.

For the gloss coat, you can also hand brush or spray future floor finish, it is a lot cheaper, and does the same thing. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000ARPH4C/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1. This bottle will last you a life time.

My first kit is a SD also, so good luck!
 

midramble

Pizza, Bourbon, and Thanos
LTTP: Turn A

Just started watching Turn A for the first time. This is pretty interesting. Like if miyazaki and tomino did a show together. The first 5 seconds of the intro never stops being funny to me.

Also just watched the MSG movies 1-3 on the english dub this time. That is by far the most hilarious english dub I've ever seen.
 

Wubby

Member
Want a Full Armor Unicorn Perfect Grade? P-Bandai has you covered!

jQorSDU1XDHKB.jpg


Finally an image of the PG Unicorn: (edit: possiby image of MG used as placeholder?)

jbxr7AarPRPpVc.jpg
 

Divvy

Canadians burned my passport
Want a Full Armor Unicorn Perfect Grade? P-Bandai has you covered!

jQorSDU1XDHKB.jpg


Finally an image of the PG Unicorn: (edit: possiby image of MG used as placeholder?)

jbxr7AarPRPpVc.jpg

*drools*

I wonder how soon they'll release it in green though. I would prefer that colour
 

midramble

Pizza, Bourbon, and Thanos

Yes, every Gun-Damn and Shah Osnubble is golden. My favorite has to be Amuro's begging in his brig scene about 45 minutes into the second movie. The delivery is great. "Let me out! ::sad voice:: I'm the best... ::awkward blubbering::"

That and Kai's screaming in his first mobile suit battle.

I really want to make a mash-up of all the best/worst dubbing in those films.
 
Yes, every Gun-Damn and Shah Osnubble is golden. My favorite has to be Amuro's begging in his brig scene about 45 minutes into the second movie. The delivery is great. "Let me out! ::sad voice:: I'm the best... ::awkward blubbering::"

That and Kai's screaming in his first mobile suit battle.

I really want to make a mash-up of all the best/worst dubbing in those films.
I've seen the dub once, when I was like 15 of the movie or something. Everything after that was the Ocean dub of the series so I'm just used to Brad Swaile and Michael Kopsa. The movie sounds like a hilarious step down.
 

midramble

Pizza, Bourbon, and Thanos
According to the comments, Char is voiced by a young Steve Blum. If that's true he sounds so different here.

That was the first thing I noticed. To me it was like Spike Spiegel being a badass newtype and giving zero fucks the entire movie. It added so much extra smugness to an already smug character. Also in comparison it made every other voice actor sound hilariously bad.
 

yami4ct

Member
I'd rather they just release a clear set so we can paint it whatever we want.

PGs are meant to be OOB builds first and foremost. Having clear psycho-frame would spoil that. Really hoping they include clear psycho-frame as an option part with the LED kit, though, maybe under the guise of conducting the light better. Would pave the way for color-change LEDs too.

Going by that ad, 12/13 is the confirmed date, right? Means I will have to wait two weeks to ship with MP Ultra Magnus on the 26th. That wait is going to be hell. Hahaha.
 
Finished building Build Burning last night. Easy kit to do. Love its simple design, but it's definitely open to more add ons as there are lots of easily removable panels covering hardpoints all over its body. Wonder what the final form will be? I'll pop on Extreme Gundam Leos parts for the fun later on after touching it up a bit more. I really thought the fire bits in the back were corny in initial scans, but they're a lot cooler than expected.

15425777509_328c31592e_b.jpg

15609758761_2f879eb0f1_b.jpg

15609767311_de638a516b_b.jpg


Hope SD Winning can do fist gattai with it!
 

tuffy

Member
Isn't Turn A getting a Blu-Ray Box Set in Christmas?
Part 1 with the first 25 episodes already came out, and part 2 with the rest is coming out on Christmas - in Japan, of course. Whether we get a Blu Ray release also is pretty much up to Sunrise.
 

Divvy

Canadians burned my passport
Fuck that looks great, but an extra 12,960 just for the LED set. Man this is going to be expensive.
 
Wow you really must need to use the settings a lot!

LOL! I was trying to get my Kinect to work again actually, so lots of restarts and trips there to see if I could get it working again. Nope, needs to be sent to MS, but I was able to have a bitchin wallpaper!
 

Acid08

Banned
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