Support NeoGAF

[Peltz]

Another strike against retrogamingcables. Friend sent me this Neo Geo AES to install the bypass mod on. It's an AES 3-6, so theoretically only the traces need to be cut, which the friend did but the image was still messed up. To me, red looked absent.

Before:

Fix and after:

Would the average person buying from them be satisfied with a faulty cable? No.

That sucks.

I actually just got my SCART switch box and there's definitely some buzzing/interference thing happening with my retrogamingcables that I didn't expect. I even opted for the thicker blue-tinted cable from her in anticipation of this (I have shit-tons of wires in my setup so I thought I needed thicker shielding) and I still am having an issue with the SNES cable... It's weird because I've not seen any issue with the Genesis 1 cable she sold me.

My switchbox could be to blame though. Without the box, all of her cables have worked flawlessly for me. And, when I compare her SNES scart cable to the 1st party JP-21 pin SNES cable, I actually think the retrogaming-cable yields a slightly cleaner image.

All of this stuff seems to be so hit-or-miss sometimes.

Edit: sorry I meant retro_console_accessories... I never bought from retrogamingcables. Sorry for the confusion.

 

[antibolo]

That sucks.

I actually just got my SCART switch box and there's definitely some buzzing/interference thing happening with my retrogamingcables that I didn't expect. I even opted for the thicker blue-tinted cable from her in anticipation of this (I have shit-tons of wires in my setup so I thought I needed thicker shielding) and I still am having an issue with the SNES cable... It's weird because I've not seen any issue with the Genesis 1 cable she sold me.

My switchbox could be to blame though. Without the box, all of her cables have worked flawlessly for me. And, when I compare her SNES scart cable to the 1st party JP-21 pin SNES cable, I actually think the retrogaming-cable yields a slightly cleaner image.

All of this stuff seems to be so hit-or-miss sometimes.

Are you mixing up retrogamingcables and retro_console_accessories by any chance?

 

[Peltz]

Are you mixing up retrogamingcables and retro_console_accessories by any chance?

Yes... I'm 100% mixing those two up. My bad. I bought my cables from retro_console_accessories and never used retrogamingcables. I'll edit my post.

 

[Friend of Sonic]

Are you using a banbridge? I sent away for the thicker coaxial cable for SNES and while it's not 100% fixed, the issue is greatly diminished.

 

[Khaz]

Audio buzzing is a weakness of Scart cables, the result of having so many analogue-carrying wires in a single cable. High quality cables have their wires independently shielded, resulting in a much thicker cable, at least 1cm in width. Sadly such cable never seemed to have been made for video game consoles.

The best way not to have buzzing is to take the sound at the source and convey it separately to an amplifier. It's a relatively simple mod to do, you just need to identify which two prongs in the plug are for audio, and follow them on the board to solder two RCA on them (and cut the traces if you are sure you won't use your display audio out.) Some later consoles like the Saturn and the fat Playstation can even be modded for Digital Audio out, which is even better.

Another way would be to get a HQ Scart cable, cut it in half and make your own video game AV cable. It means keeping the console unopened and I know it matters to some of you. It doesn't guarantee absolute buzz-free, but with the 20€ HQ cables I own for other pieces of equipment, I need to have the TV audio volume on maximum to hear the faintest of buzz. No buzzing at all in normal conditions.

 

[speedlolita]

I'd say my Sony PlayStation cables are as you describe. Of course they aren't 1cm thick though as they're not a full 21 connections as a SCART to SCART would be.

 

[Peltz]

Are you using a banbridge? I sent away for the thicker coaxial cable for SNES and while it's not 100% fixed, the issue is greatly diminished.

Yep, bandridge. The sound also cut in and out too, and picture had bizarre artifacts. I need to look more into it because I've only spent about 5 minutes with the box.

Genesis looked/played absolutely flawlessly though without any buzzing so maybe the pins were misaligned somehow (and this was Genesis 1 via stereo port that still had no buzzing or issues). I'll try hooking everything up again tomorrow and see if I still have issues.

 

[Khaz]

I'd say my Sony PlayStation cables are as you describe. Of course they aren't 1cm thick though as they're not a full 21 connections as a SCART to SCART would be.

It's actually very easy to verify by opening the scart end. I thought mine was too for the same reasons, but it turns out it only has outer shielding and a quite thick plastic sheath. Playstation Scart cables often have RCA output near the console end (for some lightgun peripherals iirc), I wonder if taking the sound from there could minimise the buzzing significantly?

 

[speedlolita]

It's actually very easy to verify by opening the scart end. I thought mine was too for the same reasons, but it turns out it only has outer shielding and a quite thick plastic sheath. Playstation Scart cables often have RCA output near the console end (for some lightgun peripherals iirc), I wonder if taking the sound from there could minimise the buzzing significantly?

I'm talking about Sony made cables. Properly shielded cables will reduce buzzing to basically nothing though. You'd really have to crank up your amplifier to hear the issue.

You'll find that Official cables don't even have the pins that aren't used present.

 

[D.Lo]

That sucks.

I actually just got my SCART switch box and there's definitely some buzzing/interference thing happening with my retrogamingcables that I didn't expect. I even opted for the thicker blue-tinted cable from her in anticipation of this (I have shit-tons of wires in my setup so I thought I needed thicker shielding) and I still am having an issue with the SNES cable... It's weird because I've not seen any issue with the Genesis 1 cable she sold me.

My switchbox could be to blame though. Without the box, all of her cables have worked flawlessly for me. And, when I compare her SNES scart cable to the 1st party JP-21 pin SNES cable, I actually think the retrogaming-cable yields a slightly cleaner image.

I have TWO Bainbridge boxes, I asked for a replacement when there was audio interference on the first, but it was the same on the second.

Video is perfect, buzzing on any white screens.

I'm currently working on some filter circuits to add to it. I'm pretty experienced various levels of amplification of audio circuits because I work on guitars and guitar amps. There's plenty of room inside the box so I might make up a little breadboard and post it here, will be a while though as I've just ordered the components.

 

[Khaz]

I'm talking about Sony made cables. Properly shielded cables will reduce buzzing to basically nothing though. You'd really have to crank up your amplifier to hear the issue.

You'll find that Official cables don't even have the pins that aren't used present.

Oh yeah, I don't know about them. I'd love to have one but I can't find any online. I suppose you can trust Sony on them, especially the Sony of that era.

I have TWO Bainbridge boxes, I asked for a replacement when there was audio interference on the first, but it was the same on the second.

Video is perfect, buzzing on any white screens.

Damn, and I just ordered one. Which one do you have, maybe it's a problem with a specific model (well, I hope it's a problem with a specific model)? I'm waiting for the three-inputs automatic switch box. And I was thinking of buying the five-inputs automatic box based on my experience.

 

[SegaShack]

I noticed by default my chroma was at 50 and brightness at 5. I boosted the brightness to 15ish and chroma to 80, but I'm wondering what your values are for chroma/brightness? Chroma at 50 didn't seem to give off vibrant colours but I'm still wondering if I should have it at 80 or 100. Thank you again by the way for doing the whole extron thing as well, I'll have one in due time to reduce the amount of work required behind the pvm.

Here are all my settings. Keep in mind that under chroma and phase I have "adjusted value" turned on. The adjusted value is because I fed it color bars and used the auto phase feature.

Here's all my settings

Chroma 69
Brightness -7
Phase -9
Contrast 91
Color Temp 65
Comp Level A0
NTSC Setup 0

Then in the user control menu if you keep scrolling down there are the following "sub" options.

Sub contrast: Max
Sub brightness: 0
subchroma: 50
subphase: 0

 

[SegaShack]

I have TWO Bainbridge boxes, I asked for a replacement when there was audio interference on the first, but it was the same on the second.

Video is perfect, buzzing on any white screens.

I'm currently working on some filter circuits to add to it. I'm pretty experienced various levels of amplification of audio circuits because I work on guitars and guitar amps. There's plenty of room inside the box so I might make up a little breadboard and post it here, will be a while though as I've just ordered the components.

FYI if I take my audio directly from the audio output on the Bandridge switch I get no buzzing. However if I get the audio from the RGB break away cables that go into my TV, I get buzz.

 

[BONKERS]

BATTLE TAIMING!!,

Battle Timing? I've never played any of the Mother games, does it require timed button presses like The mario RPGs or ??

Actually, I haven't played it (yet), but from my understanding the battles are basically rhythm games.

Ah, that makes sense I guess!

 

[dodgeme]

Quick view of the new setup. I swear it's always seemingly changing. Nevertheless I am now rocking a 20" monitor (Olympus OEV 203) and I have to say it was well worth it, although as I said earlier I did forget just how large 20" is when it comes to CRT's especially compared to a 14". It does put out a beautiful picture though and I included two from Streets of Rage 2 that I took on it.

 

[Peltz]

Just picked up a Sony PVM-14M2U because it was being sold right near my office and had perfect geometry unlike the $20 Panasonic I've been rocking.

The scanlines aren't nearly as bold though... but overall picture quality is so much more balanced, even if it has slightly less deep and vibrant colors. It's amazing how two TVs with the same content on them can look so different from each other when put side by side.

I may turn one on its side to use as a schmup machine.

 

[sixteen-bit]

I love schoot-em-ups

 

[Fularu]

Fml pvm' just don't exist around Québec

 

[Peltz]

I love schoot-em-ups

lol.

Well played.

 

[speedlolita]

I love schoot-em-ups

Yes boiii.

 

[Peltz]

FML..

Don't even pretend this cover is not rad as hell.

 

[antibolo]

Fml pvm' just don't exist around Québec

As in the capital?

Because they're fairly common in the Montréal area.

 

[Fularu]

As in the capital?

Because they're fairly common in the Montréal area.

Yeah.

If I could find one in Montreal (for a good price, not paying 400$ for one) I'd drove down there to get it.

 

[digita1alchemy]

Does anyone have any advice for a good SCART switch and where to buy it for someone in the US? I have 5, soon to be 7 consoles hooked into my PVM and I'm getting tired of unplugging/plugging the cables each time I want to play a different console.

 

[sixteen-bit]

Does anyone have any advice for a good SCART switch and where to buy it for someone in the US? I have 5, soon to be 7 consoles hooked into my PVM and I'm getting tired of unplugging/plugging the cables each time I want to play a different console.

Bandridge mas a good 5-input switch but you'll probably have to import it :/

 

[BONKERS]

Fml pvm' just don't exist around Québec

No where in Oregon either. Not even in Portland. Not at least any decent sized/priced ones.

 

[GayForMaster]

Here are all my settings. Keep in mind that under chroma and phase I have "adjusted value" turned on. The adjusted value is because I fed it color bars and used the auto phase feature.

Here's all my settings

Chroma 69
Brightness -7
Phase -9
Contrast 91
Color Temp 65
Comp Level A0
NTSC Setup 0

Then in the user control menu if you keep scrolling down there are the following "sub" options.

Sub contrast: Max
Sub brightness: 0
subchroma: 50
subphase: 0

Thanks dude you've been a big help to me. I still can't believe how amazing this device is... I have been striving for the best visuals out of my consoles and have tried so many options but they all let me down, until I managed to procure this pvm.

This is the first time I've ever been able to sit down and play my retro games for a long period of time (doing the mother trilogy atm).

Also it kind of sucks but the cheapest I can get an extron for is about 100 max, but it'll definitely be worth it.

Question about the banbridge automatic 5 way scart device? I have myself a non automatic (didn't realize how useful auto would be), but apparently the seller (I'm sure you all got yours from a "computerproductsonline" seller from a European ebayer, right? I messaged him and he said they are discontinued and will never restock. That kinda sucks, because I'm not sure where else id be able to get such a device.

 

[antibolo]

Amazon UK still lists two sellers for the automatic version
http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0015YYN2Q/

But it is indeed looking bad, they may become instinct soon...

 

[antibolo]

Yeah.

If I could find one in Montreal (for a good price, not paying 400$ for one) I'd drove down there to get it.

I checked Kijiji and there is a listing in Châteauguay, 13 inch though.
http://www.kijiji.ca/v-appareil-pho...1q/1015667325?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true

 

[GayForMaster]

Amazon UK still lists two sellers for the automatic version
http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0015YYN2Q/

But it is indeed looking bad, they may become instinct soon...

*gasp*

...I guess its first come first serve.

 

[Fularu]

I checked Kijiji and there is a listing in Châteauguay, 13 inch though.
http://www.kijiji.ca/v-appareil-pho...1q/1015667325?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true

Yeah, I need a 19 or 20" version.

13 is too small, I have a Commodore 1084s for that.

 

[Lettuce]

I have TWO Bainbridge boxes, I asked for a replacement when there was audio interference on the first, but it was the same on the second.

Video is perfect, buzzing on any white screens.

I'm currently working on some filter circuits to add to it. I'm pretty experienced various levels of amplification of audio circuits because I work on guitars and guitar amps. There's plenty of room inside the box so I might make up a little breadboard and post it here, will be a while though as I've just ordered the components.

I have the Bainbridge (non auto switching) and am using the RCA audio connection on the switcher straight to my stereo and am noticing no audio interference what so ever

 

[speedlolita]

When I was testing the Neo Geo AES the other day I flipped my N64 on and switched to that channel. Scrolling image. Clearly I'll have to cut the trace that would auto detect on the automatic one, don't want any of that voltage interference.

 

[D.Lo]

I have the Bainbridge (non auto switching) and am using the RCA audio connection on the switcher straight to my stereo and am noticing no audio interference what so ever

I was thinking that, from what I can tell the box actually routes all audio through that section AND the front inputs for some reason - it's series, not parallel, just asking for trouble.

But that won't work for me because I need the audio out the scart out because it gets fed to the Framemeister, which of course is HDMI out only. I use a receiver and nice speakers, but sometimes I like to use the TV audio too, much easier for lower volumes.

I'll mod this sucker up in a few ways and see how it goes.

 

[sixteen-bit]

It's Bandridge not Banbridge, y'all.

 

[Lettuce]

I was thinking that, from what I can tell the box actually routes all audio through that section AND the front inputs for some reason - it's series, not parallel, just asking for trouble.

But that won't work for me because I need the audio out the scart out because it gets fed to the Framemeister, which of course is HDMI out only.

Hmm cant you select the front RCA audio sockets on the Framemeister for audio and hdmi for video in the options?

 

[Peltz]

I posted a comparison of my two RGB Monitors in the scanline screenshots thread:

http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showpost.php?p=138023035&postcount=343

I think people will be a bit shocked at the results considering a Panasonic set made in 1991 beat out a Sony PVM made in 2002.

So if you're shopping for RGB monitors on CL, it may be worth trying out more brands than just holding out for the Sony stuff that seems so coveted.

 

[GayForMaster]

I posted a comparison of my two RGB Monitors in the scanline screenshots thread:

http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showpost.php?p=138023035&postcount=343

I think people will be a bit shocked at the results considering a Panasonic set made in 1991 beat out a Sony PVM made in 2002.

So if you're shopping for RGB monitors on CL, it may be worth trying out more brands than just holding out for the Sony stuff that seems so coveted.

The pbt was my first monitor. I got it from ebay but was told it was broken so I searched for a pvm after that. I'm surprised, the pbt does indeed look better.

 

[BONKERS]

I posted a comparison of my two RGB Monitors in the scanline screenshots thread:

http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showpost.php?p=138023035&postcount=343

I think people will be a bit shocked at the results considering a Panasonic set made in 1991 beat out a Sony PVM made in 2002.

So if you're shopping for RGB monitors on CL, it may be worth trying out more brands than just holding out for the Sony stuff that seems so coveted.

It seems to me that this may be a monitor specific issue in which some aspect hasn't aged properly or has drifted over time.

some crazy calibration may fix it.

 

[baphomet]

I posted a comparison of my two RGB Monitors in the scanline screenshots thread:

http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showpost.php?p=138023035&postcount=343

I think people will be a bit shocked at the results considering a Panasonic set made in 1991 beat out a Sony PVM made in 2002.

So if you're shopping for RGB monitors on CL, it may be worth trying out more brands than just holding out for the Sony stuff that seems so coveted.

There's definitely something up with the pvm. Its either been used very heavily, or something wrong in the settings. I have one of them and it looks nothing like that.

 

[Peltz]

There's definitely something up with the pvm. Its either been used very heavily, or something wrong in the settings. I have one of them and it looks nothing like that.

I don't really know... it's pretty well calibrated and doesn't look bad in person when you zoom out:

But it just doesn't have scanlines as thick as my other set, and you can see that when you zoom in really close. Perhaps my photography is also to blame. None of my iphone pics are very representative of my CRTs, but I think they're accurate as far as direct comparisons are concerned. Colors look way darker and less vibrant though in the pictures.

Same image up close on the PVM:

The other set... Panny BT is just that razor sharp to make something like this look blurry. But on it's own, the PVM looks pretty amazing.

 

[speedlolita]

There's definitely something up with the pvm. Its either been used very heavily, or something wrong in the settings. I have one of them and it looks nothing like that.

Um, I'm not sure how you came to this conclusion. It might just be that it is a higher scan model, having more horizontal lines which would make the image look different.

 

[Adam Blue]

Does anyone have any advice for a good SCART switch and where to buy it for someone in the US? I have 5, soon to be 7 consoles hooked into my PVM and I'm getting tired of unplugging/plugging the cables each time I want to play a different console.

This one is cheap, automatic, and requires no power. I don't get any picture degradation. How is this possible?

Maybe get two.

 

[robot]

I had started this long expensive journey back in July when I decided I was sick of my classic games looking like absolute crap on my Sony 46" LED. I decided to sell a few of my unplayed arcade PCB's to help get the best PQ possible w/out the need for a PVM.

A framemeister, some JP-21 cables for all of my systems, and a twin famicom rgb mod later, I finally got where I wanted it to be.

Here's a quick comparison of composite upscaled VS rgb upscaled.

Now that upscaled shot isn't pretty, but it was 1000x better than straight composite to my TV. So the RGB mod is roughly a 10000000x improvement over where I originally started.

 

[Adam Blue]

Continuing on with my SNES RGB woes from a few pages back. I still cannot get it to work again considering it was fine for a long while:

retro_console_accessories

retrogamingcables

And the beautiful Genesis with retro_console_accessories (there is a time when it started up out of sync!)

SNES worked fine for a few weeks! It works via s-video.

Cable I'm using to go to the monitor: http://www.ebay.com/itm/201193146094

Any thoughts? I used it with switcher and without. This is driving me crazy. retrogamingcables is sending me a replacement, but if the other cable doesn't work either, then it may just be me. I don't see it being a coincidence.

 

[Peltz]

Continuing on with my SNES RGB woes from a few pages back. I still cannot get it to work again considering it was fine for a long while:

retro_console_accessories

retrogamingcables

And the beautiful Genesis with retro_console_accessories (there is a time when it started up out of sync!)

SNES worked fine for a few weeks! It works via s-video.

Cable I'm using to go to the monitor: http://www.ebay.com/itm/201193146094

Any thoughts? I used it with switcher and without. This is driving me crazy. retrogamingcables is sending me a replacement, but if the other cable doesn't work either, then it may just be me. I don't see it being a coincidence.

Your images aren't coming up. Can you check your links?

P.S. I use that cable for BNC hookup and have had no issues. Are you certain everything is SCART format and you don't have any JP21 cables messing stuff up?

 

[Bancho]

And the beautiful Genesis with retro_console_accessories (there is a time when it started up out of sync!)

Do you know if the cable is using C-Sync or Composite video for sync? It's a sync problem thats for sure.

And that XM29 hhhnnnnnngggg!

 

[Adam Blue]

Do you know if the cable is using C-Sync or Composite video for sync? It's a sync problem thats for sure.

And that XM29 hhhnnnnnngggg!

Yup, c-sync.

I'm just going to assume I got bad cables.

 

[speedlolita]

Two bad cables? Seems unlikely.

 

[STG!]

Any thoughts? I used it with switcher and without. This is driving me crazy. retrogamingcables is sending me a replacement, but if the other cable doesn't work either, then it may just be me. I don't see it being a coincidence.

Hello fellow XM29-er, don't panic, you're going to need to run the RGB through a sync processor. As great a monitor as it is, it's a very picky monitor, especially if you run arcade PCB's and Genesis/MD/SNES/SF. The sync processor will sort this out. An Extron SC 210 will do the trick as well as an Extron PA 250, even though the latter is an amplifier. And you can pick these up cheaply on eBay.

I use two for my setup: one that feeds into both my monitors, the other for capturing (as it can also split sync into H/V).