Have you tried the Monster component cables? The purple one, Gamelink 400. Wondering how it stacks up against the Sony one.
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Upscalers, CRTs, PVMs & RGB: Retro gaming done right!
- Thread starter IrishNinja
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Have you tried the Monster component cables? The purple one, Gamelink 400. Wondering how it stacks up against the Sony one.
D.Lo
Member
Damn missed it, lol
GayForMaster
Banned
Yeah, mini with English 1.08 and I'm using a SCART cable from retro console accessories. I also bought the sync booster to RGB in adapter from them because I read using the packaged jp21 adapter breaks your cables. My passive rgb-in adapter just shipped from them as well but I doubt that'll fix the problem.
It's an issue with the hardware. Nothing to do with cables. I've got a Mini too, and the issue only occurs on that. I'll get a video of it happening on mine in a bit.
GayForMaster
Banned
How sure are you? It doesn't happen with S-Video, and the guy that modded my console restored both S-Video and RGB on my mini.
100% sure.
Does not happen on my model 1 SNES. Only an issue on the mini via RGB scart. The cable is fine.
It's the hardware. I am using an official Nintendo GameCube RGB SCART cable and I've tried a CRT too.
GayForMaster
Banned
Well I guess I'll have to part with the mini and pool that cash towards an SNES. I remember going the mini path because I gave up on trying to find a 1CHIP model 1.
I guess it's worth asking, what are some ways to indentify that an SNES model 1 is 1CHIP without opening it? Or at least deducing that it might likely be a 1CHIP? All I've read is the serial number should range from UN30XXXXXX to UN32XXXXX.
Later Alligator
Member
my rgb cables for genesis and snes/n64 have arrived... waiting on my lekeng box to hook up via rgb... damn international shipping!
then to try and hold off on getting a frame meister for a few months
then to try and hold off on getting a frame meister for a few months
sixteen-bit
Member
Garegga on dat PVM
what are your RGB showpiece games?
what are your RGB showpiece games?
lostinblue
Banned
Chrono Trigger is particularly pornographic in my book, as is Tales of Phantasia, Yoshi Island too, definitely.
Sonic is also an obvious one on the Mega Drive/genesis even though it loses out the transparencies. And I'd also add Flink to the list.
On the NES I'd say Kirby, Super Mario Bros 3 (also super mario bros 1 because everyone knows how it should look) and Mr. Gimmick.
Sonic is also an obvious one on the Mega Drive/genesis even though it loses out the transparencies. And I'd also add Flink to the list.
On the NES I'd say Kirby, Super Mario Bros 3 (also super mario bros 1 because everyone knows how it should look) and Mr. Gimmick.
Turbowaffles
Member
I'm not sure if this is even the right place to ask this question, but...
Trying to hook my Gamecube up to my ASUS VW266H via VGA, but all I keep getting on the monitor is the "VGA NO SIGNAL" message. I know both the Gamecube and the VGA cable I got for it work fine, because I tested them on my living room Plasma which also has a VGA port. Why won't my ASUS accept the little red, white, and yellow cable and embrace my Gamecube? I've tried Toms Hardware and sending an email to ASUS directly(with no response I might add) as well as other forums, but I cannot get an answer.
Alternative, do you folks know of a good recent Monitor that still has a VGA port and would accept my Gamecube? I'll also be using it as my PC monitor so keep that in mind.
Trying to hook my Gamecube up to my ASUS VW266H via VGA, but all I keep getting on the monitor is the "VGA NO SIGNAL" message. I know both the Gamecube and the VGA cable I got for it work fine, because I tested them on my living room Plasma which also has a VGA port. Why won't my ASUS accept the little red, white, and yellow cable and embrace my Gamecube? I've tried Toms Hardware and sending an email to ASUS directly(with no response I might add) as well as other forums, but I cannot get an answer.
Alternative, do you folks know of a good recent Monitor that still has a VGA port and would accept my Gamecube? I'll also be using it as my PC monitor so keep that in mind.
Sixfortyfive
He who pursues two rabbits gets two rabbits.
Considering that the Gamecube doesn't output VGA natively, you're going to have to specify what cable/converter you're using, and probably look up the specs and what kind of video format it actually outputs. I'd say there's probably a resolution mismatch but I'd have no way to know for sure.I'm not sure if this is even the right place to ask this question, but...
Trying to hook my Gamecube up to my ASUS VW266H via VGA, but all I keep getting on the monitor is the "VGA NO SIGNAL" message. I know both the Gamecube and the VGA cable I got for it work fine, because I tested them on my living room Plasma which also has a VGA port. Why won't my ASUS accept the little red, white, and yellow cable and embrace my Gamecube? I've tried Toms Hardware and sending an email to ASUS directly(with no response I might add) as well as other forums, but I cannot get an answer.
Alternative, do you folks know of a good recent Monitor that still has a VGA port and would accept my Gamecube? I'll also be using it as my PC monitor so keep that in mind.
PixyJunket
Member
The OP hasn't been updated in a while, are there are reference posts or links I should study up on this subject?
I think I'm good on my initial splurge of PC-Engine software so I think I'm ready to price out the long road to an RGB setup.
I think I'm good on my initial splurge of PC-Engine software so I think I'm ready to price out the long road to an RGB setup.
IrishNinja
Member
Ban Puncher
Member
Have you tried a JP21 cable plugged into the supplied stock XRGB mini-din to JP21 connector from the SNES? This is what I am using and have no issues.
My cable is an official Nintendo Super Famicom RGB JP21 but I'm sure the JP21 cables at retro_console_accessories work just as well. Looks like there are two currently on offer, one with csync and one without.
Going by this part, I'm guessing that what you're referring to as VGA is actually a composite cable. If your monitor really has a composite input, you will need to switch to that input instead of VGA, but the picture quality will be terrible. Either way, a better option would be to invest in a GameCube component cable, or even an old backward compatible Wii with a component cable, if your monitor supports component input.I'm not sure if this is even the right place to ask this question, but...
Trying to hook my Gamecube up to my ASUS VW266H via VGA, but all I keep getting on the monitor is the "VGA NO SIGNAL" message. I know both the Gamecube and the VGA cable I got for it work fine, because I tested them on my living room Plasma which also has a VGA port. Why won't my ASUS accept the little red, white, and yellow cable and embrace my Gamecube? I've tried Toms Hardware and sending an email to ASUS directly(with no response I might add) as well as other forums, but I cannot get an answer.
Alternative, do you folks know of a good recent Monitor that still has a VGA port and would accept my Gamecube? I'll also be using it as my PC monitor so keep that in mind.
GayForMaster
Banned
I'm going to run some tests first. Going to borrow a model 1 SNES from a friend and test out my current SCART cable to see if that screen shaking persists. If it does, maybe it's the cable. I'll either buy a new one and then try the jp21 cables if the new ones don't work. The only annoying thing about this is having to wait for the item to ship >_>
It would be nice to officially turn this thread into a "upscalers *and* PVMs" thread once and for all, which is what it really is. The title and OP are too upscaler-centric right now, even though at least half (if not more) of the conversations going on here are PVM (or other pro monitor) related.
Disagree.
The title is " Upscalers & RGB: Retro gaming done right". PVMs and Euro CRTs (with RGB SCART) fit into the latter half of that. No need to change it.
Be cool to have PVM somewhere in the title since people sometimes come in with PVM questions but aren't sure if they're allowed to ask or talk about it here. Then we had someone else come in saying we shouldn't talk about them here and create a separate thread, so there's some confusion at the moment.
"Upscalers, PVMs, and RGB: Retro gaming done right"?
"Upscalers, PVMs, and RGB: Retro gaming done right"?
Not sure I see your logic, RGB applies to both, you use RGB with upscalers too. RGB does not imply CRTs in this sentence.
And in any case, even if we agree that the title is OK, the OP is still in need of work.
+1 for that.
GayForMaster
Banned
Retro gaming*
I've been thinking, if my whole framemeister problem doesn't sort itself out I might just buy a PVM but I'm not sure which one is the best one to grab. Can y'all help me out?
Any model is fine as long as they are in good condition and have RGB inputs (some of them don't).
As for size it's pretty subjective, 20 inch is good but depending on how much room you have you may want a 14 inch instead. There are 27 inch models, but at this point the weight of the damn thing becomes unpractical.
On that note, does anyone know if these are any good?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SONY-Trin...-Monitor-/271503731559?_trksid=p2054897.l4275
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SONY-Trin...-Monitor-/271503731559?_trksid=p2054897.l4275
lostinblue
Banned
800 TV lines, well, yes, they are.
They're pretty recent as far as PVM's manufactured go too.
M4/L4 is the upper 800 TVL range, M2/L2 is the 600 TVL ones. under that they suffer.
I myself realized I probably prefer 600 TVL's in 14" and possibly over that (more "genuine" and no quality caveats imo) but everything is an acquired taste.
Beware of actual use it has seen. They sell a lot of PVM's on half-life - those are not worth it. I actually trust more the medical equipment because it's never turned on 24/7.
I love my PVM's, but they're getting overated tbh. And Trinitrons too.
Lots of other good tubes out there.
lostinblue
Banned
BVM.
With BVM's it's easier to score a good one because you can know the number of hours it has been used for.
With PVM's you never know. Taking the geometry control unit and hour counter though, there should be PVM's pulling the same image as BVM's providing they have the same TVL's (800 and up), the issue is the hour counter not being there.
PVM's cut out at 800 TVL's and BVM's go from 800 TVL's all the way up to 1100 TVL's. I don't think the increment of TVL's translates in a huge quality improvement. scanlines get thicker and thicker as it goes up, definition mostly stays the same. I dislike under 600 TVL's right now, over it... I'm always kinda mixed, not a spec I'm looking for or prefer but if I'm going for size and it has to be 800 TVL's then I don't thing I mind it.
As with everything opinion related, I might change my opinion later, I'm basing my opinion on 14" PVM's after all.
Agreed, although PVM seems to be the most discussed and popular lately.
"Upscalers, CRTs, and RGB: Retro gaming done right"?
sixteen-bit
Member
love it
Turbowaffles
Member
Well, it seems like I dun goofed... First off thanks for the input, guys. Secondly, maybe you can help me further, please? Check the two pictures below. The first is a shot of all the inputs that are available on my monitor, sans the HDMI on the opposite side of it:
http://i.imgur.com/wqjFRv8.jpg
And the second is the cable I'm connecting from the Gamecube:
http://i.imgur.com/ov4tei9.jpg
Can you explain to me simply what I need to do to make this work? If I need a converter box or another cable can you give me some keywords or start me in the right direction? I've heard Gamecube component cables are insanely expensive, like in the hundreds of dollars area. Not willing to spend anywhere near that much as all I'll be using this for is the Gameboy Player attachment, which is why the Wii is also not an option.
Thanks so much for the help so far! I'm not super knowledgeable about this stuff so any little bit helps.
You have a yellow RCA for video on the cable, but no yellow input on your monitor. What you have is a composite cable.
Some monitors allow you to plug it into the green instead, and select composite or component for that particular input, but your monitor may or may not have this capability.
A Gamecube component cable will work, but as you say, they are expensive.
Some monitors allow you to plug it into the green instead, and select composite or component for that particular input, but your monitor may or may not have this capability.
A Gamecube component cable will work, but as you say, they are expensive.
Double post, but different topic...
To those who were wondering alongside me if a decent SCART to component cable (6RCA) could be used with some cheap BNC connectors, rather than spending $50 (this is what I paid for mine in NZD) on a custom SCART to BNC cable, I have some good news.
I lucked out and got this second hand for $15:
Added 4 BNC connectors (25c a piece) and it works a charm with my PVM. It's also a hell of a lot sturdier than the one from Retro Gaming Cables, which has good connectors but very thin (and very short!) cabling.
To those who were wondering alongside me if a decent SCART to component cable (6RCA) could be used with some cheap BNC connectors, rather than spending $50 (this is what I paid for mine in NZD) on a custom SCART to BNC cable, I have some good news.
I lucked out and got this second hand for $15:
Added 4 BNC connectors (25c a piece) and it works a charm with my PVM. It's also a hell of a lot sturdier than the one from Retro Gaming Cables, which has good connectors but very thin (and very short!) cabling.
lostinblue
Banned
^ Looks good!
Also bare in mind I reside in the PAL-lands, they inflate the res here and 600 TVL give me the extra leeway, albeit I don't usually game in PAL image formats and I mostly despise them due to black bars.
Plus, not a lot of 500 TVL screens exist, from my experience of TV line counting, a lot of 450 TVL ones (and that makes a difference) and then most that pop out will be 600 TVL's, not a whole lot in the middle.
600 TVL's with an aligned/symmetrical shadow mask/aperture grille is what I shoot for as minimum. But of course, that might be just me, I don't claim to own the sweet spot.
It should be, but not as good still.
Also bare in mind I reside in the PAL-lands, they inflate the res here and 600 TVL give me the extra leeway, albeit I don't usually game in PAL image formats and I mostly despise them due to black bars.
Plus, not a lot of 500 TVL screens exist, from my experience of TV line counting, a lot of 450 TVL ones (and that makes a difference) and then most that pop out will be 600 TVL's, not a whole lot in the middle.
600 TVL's with an aligned/symmetrical shadow mask/aperture grille is what I shoot for as minimum. But of course, that might be just me, I don't claim to own the sweet spot.
Turbowaffles
Member
lostinblue
Banned
Step it up to S-video minimum please.
Otherwise there will be no quality whatsoever left in the image for you to enjoy, composite is too noisy... while S-video is like RGB minus the color accuracy.
Does your TV support S-video?
Anyway, the "cheap" recommendation is a Lenkeng, question coming behind it, what systems do you use and with which cables? And are you interested in RGB for some of them eventually?
Check if your monitor will take composite via the green input like I mentioned, or even post the model number of your monitor here and we can check for you.
If doesn't, you can't use that cable with that monitor without some other bits added. There are cheap composite to HDMI adapters out there, but they're pretty crap. I'd only get one if you're desperate to use that cable with that monitor and don't care about picture quality.
If picture quality is important to you, it's probably worth it to invest in a component cable. They can be had for under $100 if you're patient.
In his photo he has DVI, VGA, component; not pictured in the photo is HDMI.
Turbowaffles
Member
It's an ASUS VW266H
Here's the official ASUS page: http://www.asus.com/Monitors_Projectors/VW266H/specifications/
I don't see anything about S-video :/
Here's the official ASUS page: http://www.asus.com/Monitors_Projectors/VW266H/specifications/
I don't see anything about S-video :/
lostinblue
Banned
I hadn't seen the photos yet.
I'll still go with the S-video recommendation.
It's composite that sucks balls, but all the other methods taking RF aside (who's actually worse) are way better and perfectly usable. If an S-Video costs $5 and RGB/component $30 (for a non-hd console) it's probably not worth the difference whereas for composite I'd say it's worth whatever money it's supposed to be worth because it's so damn bad.
S-video, Scart RGB and component are all pretty similar when it comes to SD "definition".
S-video lacks color separation but pixel accuracy and stability is all there, color is still leagues better than composhite.
RGB lacks 480p support but it's otherwise equal to component. Issue is that US systems don't do it (and Gamecube PAL consoles don't do component nor s-video) - component cables and other digital port cables can be adapted to pull RGB but that's obviously not worth it (and 480i)
Component is able to do 480p, otherwise RGB with 5 cables (3 image, 2 sound).
As for what you need:
-> http://www.lenkeng.net/AV_SduanzizhuanHDMIshipinzhuanhuanqi/lenkeng45.html
I'd go with that. There are lower speced versions with S-video and composite but they cost the same and that version will do the same if you plug a composite+s-video to scart adapter.
This because scart is a clusterfuck "container" plug, it carries composite, rgb and can carry s-video just fine as part of it's spec.
EDIT: There's one review here.
lostinblue
Banned
^ ~45 USD on ebay
S-video+composite to S-video costs $1.31
And S-video cables cost ~$6 (with composhite fallback too)
I kinda was on mobile at first, read it on a tablet, but then switched to computer for proper keyboard
EDIT: S-Video and composite illustrated:
S-video -> composite.
S-video is often good enough, but not under, never under.
S-video+composite to S-video costs $1.31
And S-video cables cost ~$6 (with composhite fallback too)
I kinda was on mobile at first, read it on a tablet, but then switched to computer for proper keyboard
EDIT: S-Video and composite illustrated:
S-video -> composite.
S-video is often good enough, but not under, never under.
Oops I meant 600, not sure why I said 500.
Anyway my point was that any PVM should have a high enough horizontal resolution to display an optimal 240p image. You seemed to be implying that it's not, and told the guy to look for a BVM instead. Finding a BVM is easier said than done, of course they're better but saying that one should skip PVM and look straight for a BVM is definitely not something I agree with.
lostinblue
Banned
You sound like you didn't read my post at all.
I know I write a lot, but I basically wrote everything you've just said and in the sense you just did.
I just advised for a BVM and not a PVM because said person has no prior experience with them and will be buying through ebay (probably) hence doesn't really know how they should look "new" should he get a half-life one. It's a gamble.
BVM is less of a gamble because one can know just how many hours it has on it's back, costs most yes. That's why I haven't got one yet might I add.
I also said I actually prefer 600 TVL's, at least in the 14" flavour; no 4:3 BVM has neither 14" nor 600 TVL's, and in the 800 TVL range they should be equal to good old PVM's. Differences lie on hour counter and control unit.
But since that's my line of thought I don't get your post.
Pretty much.
Cheap composite to HDMI can backfire though, because older console signals are 240p, most adapters will not interpret it correctly and some might not even display an image. Such is not the case with GB Player/GC though, because it outputs at 480i minimum but I think it's worth being said (GC can do 240p, but I'm not sure any commercial game does). I've seen a lot of complaints lately regarding said converters not giving out an image on gaming forums and I bet it's due to the fact they were being used with 240p.
Solution 2 appears to the the cheapest one where 240p is properly recognized and supported according to reviews at least, so even if it's used for S-video and Composite it should give better results.
i'm feeling like posting some screen captures to see how the Wii2HDMI adapter measures up against GC Component cables. as a bonus, i'm including shots using the Wii U to have more range.
atm i don't have set up any way to capture footage using the original component cables directly since my current capture card is HDMI only.
the colors are a bit different on the wii set but i tried adjusting them a bit and it was hard getting them to look like the other 2. i guess that's the difference from using the adapter.
i have other games to test but this one was the first one that i tried.
Gamecube + Component cable + Framemeister
Wii + Wii2HDMI adapter + Framemeister
Wii U (console output is 720p without any external enhancements)
Gamecube + Component cable + Framemeister
Wii + Wii2HDMI adapter + Framemeister
Wii U (console output is 720p without any external enhancements)
Gamecube + Component cable + Framemeister
Wii + Wii2HDMI adapter + Framemeister
Wii U (console output is 720p without any external enhancements)
atm i don't have set up any way to capture footage using the original component cables directly since my current capture card is HDMI only.
the colors are a bit different on the wii set but i tried adjusting them a bit and it was hard getting them to look like the other 2. i guess that's the difference from using the adapter.
i have other games to test but this one was the first one that i tried.
Danny Dudekisser
I paid good money for this Dynex!
Man, you went through the trouble of taking all those pictures, but stretched it into widescreen?
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