Plasma, LCD, OLED, LED, best tv for next gen

Samsung active 3D glasses will suffice.

For everything, the principle is the same, better and worse is defined by the shape of the glasses (read: coverage) being better or worse.

I reckon the samsung ones aren't perfect but they're cheap.
EYEL1NER said:
Now I need to decide if I want to run slides or not. I'm only in the country for three weeks and don't know if I want to take 4 days up with that and miss out on four days of movies with the family and new Xbone goodness. I debated and debated for days to run slides on the plasma I got in 2010 before finally deciding not to and jumped straight into movies and gaming (I think maybe I held off a day or two before playing any HUD-intensive games though). Never had any issues with IR that a couple minutes of the scrolling bar or televised programming couldn't fix. And I'm talking 'I would fall asleep while in the Netflix app for 5 or 6 hours, wake up to see the TV still on and displaying that screen (albeit a bit darker due to the 360 picture dimming after a while), and running the white bar for a couple minutes and being good.' That was a Panny though, not a Samsung. Never owned a Samsung, so I guess I should take it kind of easy at the beginning and feel it out for a bit.
Click to expand...
Samsung Plasmas are more resilient out of the box, against IR than Panasonic.

Not to say you should blast brightness over 100% because they're still photosensible, but within normal use you shouldn't have many problems to write home about.

That's why they're the brightest plasmas out there, since they had photosensitivity in a comfortable place they've made plasma cells bigger for the F8500 (this means it's more prone to IR out of the box than prior smaller plasma cell Samsungs, but still regarded as better than Panasonic).

I think it has to do with the driver for the screen too. Like how Panasonic allowed you to customise so much, people would get home, crank brightness to 100% and turn pixel orbiter off then go gaming. Recipe for disaster. I think Samsung has some kind of thing going on to wipe the screen clean periodically, they don't trust the end customer that much, and that turned out to be right.

Kinda how OLED's do get IR as well, (I was on the samsung store 2 days ago and fuck me, those AMOLED screens were all burned in severely) but LG OLED TV's have a "screen wash" feature going on that you can't turn off that happens on standby. And the result is that... yeah, LG is still crap at post processing in displays (if Sony or Panasonic get their panels then we'll speak) BUT... They managed to have no retention to date, and they would get it, trust me.

Panasonic plasma IR was always due to Panasonic giving too much control to end user without countering it. They were like their professional variants in regards to most options.

Hell, game mode and pixel orbiter off could be a forbidden combination in the options, like the later appearing greyed out. Could have avoided crisis for so many users. And certain Constrast and Brightness settings should have had at least warnings/suggestions past a certain threshold.
 
lostinblue said:
I reckon the samsung ones aren't perfect but they're cheap.Samsung Plasmas are more resilient out of the box, against IR than Panasonic.

Not to say you should blast brightness over 100% because they're still photosensible, but within normal use you shouldn't have many problems to write home about.

That's why they're the brightest plasmas out there, since they had photosensitivity in a comfortable place they've made plasma cells bigger for the F8500 (this means it's more prone to IR out of the box than prior smaller plasma cell Samsungs, but still regarded as better than Panasonic).

I think it has to do with the driver for the screen too. Like how Panasonic allowed you to customise so much, people would get home, crank brightness to 100% and turn pixel orbiter off then go gaming. Recipe for disaster. I think Samsung has some kind of thing going on to wipe the screen clean periodically, they don't trust the end customer that much, and that turned out to be right.

Kinda how OLED's do get IR as well, (I was on the samsung store 2 days ago and fuck me, those AMOLED screens were all burned in severely) but LG OLED TV's have a "screen wash" feature going on that you can't turn off that happens on standby. And the result is that... yeah, LG is still crap at post processing in displays (if Sony or Panasonic get their panels then we'll speak) BUT... They managed to have no retention to date, and they would get it, trust me.

Panasonic plasma IR was always due to Panasonic giving too much control to end user without countering it. They were like their professional variants in regards to most options.

Hell, game mode and pixel orbiter off could be a forbidden combination in the options, like the later appearing greyed out. Could have avoided crisis for so many users. And certain Constrast and Brightness settings should have had at least warnings/suggestions past a certain threshold.
Click to expand...

Sorry for the double post but while I have someone who knows about Plasma's and IR.....

I bought my GT60 in November of last year and ran slides for the first 7 days. After that I set all ports on the TV up using these calibration settings

Around March of this year I left Dark Souls 2 on the title screen and feel asleep for about 6 hours. It's a black background with Dark Souls II written across the middle in white writing. That fucker burnt right in and whenever I have a white screen I can still see the outline of the letters across the centre of the screen. Anything I can do to help this? I have the Disney WOW blu-ray and I've run the pixel shifter for a few hours a few times but it still persists. Should it go away eventually?

The TV only used to get limited use (a few hours a week) but I've just moved out with my fiancee and it's getting used a lot more regularly now so I'm hoping it will go away over time but I still worry that I'm stuck with this forever :/ I have a 5 year warranty but I'm guessing it doesn't cover this and even if it did, it's not like they could give me a new Panny plasma. Any advice on ways I could help fix this would be much appreciated!
 
lostinblue said:
I reckon the samsung ones aren't perfect but they're cheap.Samsung Plasmas are more resilient out of the box, against IR than Panasonic.

Not to say you should blast brightness over 100% because they're still photosensible, but within normal use you shouldn't have many problems to write home about.

That's why they're the brightest plasmas out there, since they had photosensitivity in a comfortable place they've made plasma cells bigger for the F8500 (this means it's more prone to IR out of the box than prior smaller plasma cell Samsungs, but still regarded as better than Panasonic).

I think it has to do with the driver for the screen too. Like how Panasonic allowed you to customise so much, people would get home, crank brightness to 100% and turn pixel orbiter off then go gaming. Recipe for disaster. I think Samsung has some kind of thing going on to wipe the screen clean periodically, they don't trust the end customer that much, and that turned out to be right.

Kinda how OLED's do get IR as well, (I was on the samsung store 2 days ago and fuck me, those AMOLED screens were all burned in severely) but LG OLED TV's have a "screen wash" feature going on that you can't turn off that happens on standby. And the result is that... yeah, LG is still crap at post processing in displays (if Sony or Panasonic get their panels then we'll speak) BUT... They managed to have no retention to date, and they would get it, trust me.

Panasonic plasma IR was always due to Panasonic giving too much control to end user without countering it. They were like their professional variants in regards to most options.

Hell, game mode and pixel orbiter off could be a forbidden combination in the options, like the later appearing greyed out. Could have avoided crisis for so many users. And certain Constrast and Brightness settings should have had at least warnings/suggestions past a certain threshold.
Click to expand...
If Samsungs are better at avoiding IR than Panasonics, I'll have nothing to worry about. I frequently kept the brightness on that 2010 set pretty high and never had too many problems.
I might run some slides while sleeping and then turn the brightness down a bit from where I normally like it, but I am getting less and less worried about this F8500 as time goes on. My wife said she doesn't hear any buzzing, IR might be better than the Panny that I had and experience no real problems with, and the TV stand puts it an an ideal height to avoid looking at it from too high or low an angle that the anti-glare tech ruins it. I'll get to test this input lag out as soon as I have everything hooked up, because this new Xbone and 15 games are itching to be played. And then I'll grab a multi-year SquareTrade warranty from Costco and stress to my wife before leaving the country again that she and my daughter do not leave the TV on still images for long periods of time and then be done with worrying over it.



General question: Is there anything to do with a TV that was affected by a lightning strike? When my 2010 Panny plasma first lost all of the HDMI during the summer, I feared the worst. I started reading online about how when it happens you should scrap the TV because it usually hits multiple boards and will cost more than the TV is worth. When I got home a couple months ago for vacation I started troubleshooting it. It seems like maybe it is just the HDMI that was taken out. I am able to play my 360 and PS3 over component with no issues, nothing is wrong with the audio or picture, no setting fail to work.
I really loved this TV and really do not want to get home next weekend and then haul it off to a recycling center or to the trash. Is it worth taking it to a TV repair shop and asking them to tool around on a bit? If the cost of new boards that house control HDMI and the MX time would be high (I'm assuming the MX/labor costs more than the boards but I really don't know much about repairing home electronics), is it worth trying to sell? Would a TV repair shop buy something like that for a little bit of cash? Or should I just write it off?
 
EYEL1NER said:
If Samsungs are better at avoiding IR than Panasonics, I'll have nothing to worry about. I frequently kept the brightness on that 2010 set pretty high and never had too many problems.
I might run some slides while sleeping and then turn the brightness down a bit from where I normally like it, but I am getting less and less worried about this F8500 as time goes on. My wife said she doesn't hear any buzzing, IR might be better than the Panny that I had and experience no real problems with, and the TV stand puts it an an ideal height to avoid looking at it from too high or low an angle that the anti-glare tech ruins it. I'll get to test this input lag out as soon as I have everything hooked up, because this new Xbone and 15 games are itching to be played. And then I'll grab a multi-year SquareTrade warranty from Costco and stress to my wife before leaving the country again that she and my daughter do not leave the TV on still images for long periods of time and then be done with worrying over it.



General question: Is there anything to do with a TV that was affected by a lightning strike? When my 2010 Panny plasma first lost all of the HDMI during the summer, I feared the worst. I started reading online about how when it happens you should scrap the TV because it usually hits multiple boards and will cost more than the TV is worth. When I got home a couple months ago for vacation I started troubleshooting it. It seems like maybe it is just the HDMI that was taken out. I am able to play my 360 and PS3 over component with no issues, nothing is wrong with the audio or picture, no setting fail to work.
I really loved this TV and really do not want to get home next weekend and then haul it off to a recycling center or to the trash. Is it worth taking it to a TV repair shop and asking them to tool around on a bit? If the cost of new boards that house control HDMI and the MX time would be high (I'm assuming the MX/labor costs more than the boards but I really don't know much about repairing home electronics), is it worth trying to sell? Would a TV repair shop buy something like that for a little bit of cash? Or should I just write it off?
Click to expand...

The F8500 is an awesome set. I probably would've bought one instead of my VT60 if it didn't cost $500 more at the time I bought it. From what I've heard Samsungs are much better than Panasonics as far as IR goes. The first 100 hours or so I never got IR. Now, if something white goes up on the screen for as little as 5 seconds, I'll see it's ghost for 30 seconds to a minute. I've taken real good care of it too, proper break in with slides and full screen content. It's kind of a pain in the ass.

As far as your 2010 Panasonic. I'd definitely sell it if I couldn't get it repaired for a reasonable price. Put it up with full disclosure about its issues. Cable TV is still only outputting in 1080i so component connections will still work perfectly for that. Definitely shouldn't be scrapped yet.
 
OLED TVs would be the clear choice for every gamer. The superior contrast, black levels and the perfect motion picture quality are especially important for gaming. But there are some things that hold OLED back. Only LG is producing big OLED TVs. That means:

  • Input lag is too high: 40-50 ms in Game/PC mode (for comparison: Modern Sony FullHD TVs usually take 15-25 ms to display the picture)
  • Almost every OLED TV is curved. And curved is (like 3D) just bullshit in my opinion.
 
The fact that Samsung made OLED TVs and then pulled out of the market should be concerning to anyone. Samsung didn't quit for fun, there was a reason they aren't selling OLED TVs right now.
 
Unknown Soldier said:
The fact that Samsung made OLED TVs and then pulled out of the market should be concerning to anyone. Samsung didn't quit for fun, there was a reason they aren't selling OLED TVs right now.
Click to expand...

Yeah, anyone should beware of just jumping into a new technology like that unless you just have money to waste. Deciding to go full oled this soon would be like deciding to transfer right to 4k right now.
:3
 
If I had the space, I'd get one of the Sony Trimaster OLEDs for a desktop game station. I can't wait for that technology to filter down to their consumer televisions. If they're confident enough to use it in their professional products, they must have slain all of the reliability issues.
 
dirrty-harry1 said:
OLED TVs would be the clear choice for every gamer. The superior contrast, black levels and the perfect motion picture quality are especially important for gaming. But there are some things that hold OLED back. Only LG is producing big OLED TVs. That means:

  • Input lag is too high: 40-50 ms in Game/PC mode (for comparison: Modern Sony FullHD TVs usually take 15-25 ms to display the picture)
  • Almost every OLED TV is curved. And curved is (like 3D) just bullshit in my opinion.
Click to expand...

input lag is bad on all oled right now and motion quality is actually poor. only this years LG oleds have better motion resolution but its still not on par with even higher end lcd. oleds will need better processors to shine.

it sucks that tv manufacturers are pushing the 4k gimmick and tossing oled into the dumpster. 4K is absolutely useless until content if filmed in that resolution and then the infrastructure still needs to upgraded and cable boxes replaced with h265 boxes.
tv industry is so dumb.
 
big_z said:
input lag is bad on all oled right now and motion quality is actually poor. only this years LG oleds have better motion resolution but its still not on par with even higher end lcd. oleds will need better processors to shine.

it sucks that tv manufacturers are pushing the 4k gimmick and tossing oled into the dumpster. 4K is absolutely useless until content if filmed in that resolution and then the infrastructure still needs to upgraded and cable boxes replaced with h265 boxes.
tv industry is so dumb.
Click to expand...

Not to mention the fact that none of the 4K sets currently on the market actually meet the requirements of the Rec. 2020 UHD standard defined by the International Telecommunication Union, particularly in regard to colour space. It's the whole HD Ready vs. Full HD thing all over again. A 4K TV bought today will be obsolete within a year.
 
big_z said:
input lag is bad on all oled right now and motion quality is actually poor. only this years LG oleds have better motion resolution but its still not on par with even higher end lcd. oleds will need better processors to shine.

it sucks that tv manufacturers are pushing the 4k gimmick and tossing oled into the dumpster. 4K is absolutely useless until content if filmed in that resolution and then the infrastructure still needs to upgraded and cable boxes replaced with h265 boxes.
tv industry is so dumb.
Click to expand...
All I want from 4K is full 1080p paasive 3D. And maybe in a few years my PC will render fine at that resolution.
 
So I should be able to pick up a new TV soon and the concencus seems to the the KDL60W850B is the one to get, right?

I'm coming from a 5 year old plasma which has served me very well, so my main need is a very good black level, plus of course less input lag. Is this still the TV to get?
 
I've been following this thread for some time and after reading I want to get in on the plasma too.. I only had my w802a for a few months but I pulled the trigger on a 51" F8500.

I'm probably gonna give my parents the w802a as they're sitting on early 2000's Panny rear projection.
 
Unknown Soldier said:
The fact that Samsung made OLED TVs and then pulled out of the market should be concerning to anyone. Samsung didn't quit for fun, there was a reason they aren't selling OLED TVs right now.
Click to expand...

There is so much bad info in this thread about OLED. As an OLED owner (55 LG paid 2k amazing price thanks microcenter), let me clarify.

Samsung left BC margins weren't cutting it. People don't want to spend that much anymore for TV so they go for led light bleeders or plasma burn in with the latter not even an option anymore. The fact though that someone falls asleep in front of a TV and then had burn in is fucking unacceptable.

I've owned top line led and plasma and this TV EASILY smokes them both. Picture is insane. No burn in issues perfect not deeper but perfect blacks and motion is fine. Same motion on hockey football etc than my other TVs.

The only downside I see is lag as it's def there but that's true for other tech and game mode helps.

If you are able to buy OLED no question it's best. Don't be swayed by the jealous who don't know what the hell they're talking about as they don't own am OLED
 
SirMossyBloke said:
So I should be able to pick up a new TV soon and the concencus seems to the the KDL60W850B is the one to get, right?

I'm coming from a 5 year old plasma which has served me very well, so my main need is a very good black level, plus of course less input lag. Is this still the TV to get?
Click to expand...
The W850B uses an IPS panel. If you're coming from a plasma, you'll most likely be disappointed in the black levels.
delt31 said:
There is so much bad info in this thread about OLED. As an OLED owner (55 LG paid 2k amazing price thanks microcenter), let me clarify.

Samsung left BC margins weren't cutting it. People don't want to spend that much anymore for TV so they go for led light bleeders or plasma burn in with the latter not even an option anymore. The fact though that someone falls asleep in front of a TV and then had burn in is fucking unacceptable.

I've owned top line led and plasma and this TV EASILY smokes them both. Picture is insane. No burn in issues perfect not deeper but perfect blacks and motion is fine. Same motion on hockey football etc than my other TVs.

The only downside I see is lag as it's def there but that's true for other tech and game mode helps.

If you are able to buy OLED no question it's best. Don't be swayed by the jealous who don't know what the hell they're talking about as they don't own am OLED
Click to expand...

Owning an OLED TV does not magically negate all the problems inherent to the technology. Good to hear that you're happy with it though.
 
What limitations? Lag? What doesn't? Motion? Overblown. Burn in? Not on LG. The picture quality is damn near perfect what is the downside besides price?
 
delt31 said:
There is so much bad info in this thread about OLED. As an OLED owner (55 LG paid 2k amazing price thanks microcenter), let me clarify.

Samsung left BC margins weren't cutting it. People don't want to spend that much anymore for TV so they go for led light bleeders or plasma burn in with the latter not even an option anymore. The fact though that someone falls asleep in front of a TV and then had burn in is fucking unacceptable.

I've owned top line led and plasma and this TV EASILY smokes them both. Picture is insane. No burn in issues perfect not deeper but perfect blacks and motion is fine. Same motion on hockey football etc than my other TVs.

The only downside I see is lag as it's def there but that's true for other tech and game mode helps.

If you are able to buy OLED no question it's best. Don't be swayed by the jealous who don't know what the hell they're talking about as they don't own am OLED
Click to expand...

Could just as easily say you're jealous by not owning a plasma but whatever. Enjoy! The tech isn't mature enough for me yet.
 
dirrty-harry1 said:
OLED TVs would be the clear choice for every gamer. The superior contrast, black levels and the perfect motion picture quality are especially important for gaming. But there are some things that hold OLED back. Only LG is producing big OLED TVs. That means:

  • Input lag is too high: 40-50 ms in Game/PC mode (for comparison: Modern Sony FullHD TVs usually take 15-25 ms to display the picture)
  • Almost every OLED TV is curved. And curved is (like 3D) just bullshit in my opinion.
Click to expand...

The EC9300 is 34ms when PC mode is on. Wouldn't say that's high at all. It's a fine tradeoff for 15-20ms compared to LCD considering the PQ improvement. Not many Plasmas are below 35ms also, the oft-recommended F8500 is 50ms. I would argue, OLED is the best option right now (aside from the price) if you want the best PQ combined with relatively low input lag.

Unknown Soldier said:
The fact that Samsung made OLED TVs and then pulled out of the market should be concerning to anyone. Samsung didn't quit for fun, there was a reason they aren't selling OLED TVs right now.
Click to expand...


Right, Samsung was using an entirely different manufacturing process than LG, and it didn't work out well for them. It is a fact that LG's approach has and they are opening a new plant which will quadruple production soon. LG is likely going to continue being the dominate player in OLED for some time to come, Samsung may just end up buying panels from them.
 
x3sphere said:
The EC9300 is 34ms when PC mode is on. Wouldn't say that's high at all.
Click to expand...

I guess EC9300 = EC930V here in the EU. Here's another measurement for this TV:
https://www.avforums.com/review/lg-...webos-oled-tv-review.10889#sectionAnchor37371

Between 41 and 52 ms. Sure this is not bad. Currently I'm playing on a 40 ms TV and still enjoying it. But if I purchase a TV for over 3000 $/€ I don't want to make any compromises. And unfortunately it's also curved...

I hope that Panasonic and Sony are starting to use OLED Panels soon. They usually have better picture processing and lower input lag than LG.
 
x3sphere said:
Right, Samsung was using an entirely different manufacturing process than LG, and it didn't work out well for them. It is a fact that LG's approach has and they are opening a new plant which will quadruple production soon. LG is likely going to continue being the dominate player in OLED for some time to come, Samsung may just end up buying panels from them.
Click to expand...

Samsung is as likely to ever use LG panels as Microsoft is likely to adopt Google Search as their search engine.

Samsung's approach to OLED, using RGB OLEDs for lighting each pixel, is theoretically better than LG's approach which is use white OLEDs for all 3 primary colors and overlay with a color filter. The problem of the blue OLED's different and shorter lifetime has not been solved however. In general OLED pixel lifetime has not been solved but LG seems pretty confident that if they pretend everything is okay it will turn out okay. Using the aggressively plasma style ABL on OLED panels which consume a fraction of the power that PDPs did isn't inspiring confidence however.

All of Samsung's phone and tablet sized Super AMOLED screens use RGB OLEDs but this is acceptable because how often do you watch your phone screen 8 hours a day for years and years? The accelerated aging of the blue OLED isn't as significant on phone screens which aren't on for significant lengths of time, but even on phone screens people have noticed irreversible burn-in after long ownership. I don't understand how people think OLED TV is ready for general consumer use when the phone Super AMOLED screens have established that pixel lifetime and burn-in are an unsolved problem which are an awfully big deal on TV panels.

Samsung controls >91% of the small OLED panels market, incidentally. If your phone has an OLED screen, the panel was made by Samsung.
 
So after hours of research, I figured I would just come to GAF to have a few simple questions answered.

I've been using this 40" Samsung since January of 2010 (paid $900 on sale at the time--how times have changed). It's not a bad TV, but I've had a hankering for an upgrade, and with the cost of larger, better TVs being down near my purchase price for the current TV, I feel comfortable making an upgrade.

My primary uses are gaming (PS4, WiiU) and blu-ray viewing (with a healthy dose of Netflix, of course). I'm not a super skilled shooter fanatic, although I do play a number of games that could be considered twitchy enough to justify a higher refresh rate.

The problem is, I'm just seeing such inconsistent information on what I need to get the best experience.

Basically, I'm looking to spend between $800 and $1200 for a 55" (preferably non-Plasma [sorry, guys]) TV without 3D or any other unnecessary bells and whistles.

I've looked at the following (ranked from top to bottom in order of most to least appeal):

This Samsung with 4K but a 60Hz refresh rate

This equally priced but larger 1080p120 Samsung

I don't know a lot about other brands, but the success I and some close friends have had with Samsung have led me to kind of stick in that territory to begin with.

Sorry for the long post. I appreciate any advice you guys have to offer.
 
.J. said:
So after hours of research, I figured I would just come to GAF to have a few simple questions answered.

I've been using this 40" Samsung since January of 2010 (paid $900 on sale at the time--how times have changed). It's not a bad TV, but I've had a hankering for an upgrade, and with the cost of larger, better TVs being down near my purchase price for the current TV, I feel comfortable making an upgrade.

My primary uses are gaming (PS4, WiiU) and blu-ray viewing (with a healthy dose of Netflix, of course). I'm not a super skilled shooter fanatic, although I do play a number of games that could be considered twitchy enough to justify a higher refresh rate.

The problem is, I'm just seeing such inconsistent information on what I need to get the best experience.

Basically, I'm looking to spend between $800 and $1200 for a 55" (preferably non-Plasma [sorry, guys]) TV without 3D or any other unnecessary bells and whistles.

I've looked at the following (ranked from top to bottom in order of most to least appeal):

This Samsung with 4K but a 60Hz refresh rate

This equally priced but larger 1080p120 Samsung

I don't know a lot about other brands, but the success I and some close friends have had with Samsung have led me to kind of stick in that territory to begin with.

Sorry for the long post. I appreciate any advice you guys have to offer.
Click to expand...
If you're only playing on consoles, your TV's refresh rate is completely irrelevant.

That being said, my advice would be to go for the bigger 1080p set since the 4K one will be obsolete within a year.
 
Orcastar said:
If you're only playing on consoles, your TV's refresh rate is completely irrelevant.

That being said, my advice would be to go for the bigger 1080p set since the 4K one will be obsolete within a year.
Click to expand...

No it won't. Samsung TVs uses the evolution kit which is can be replaced with the model every year and the kit is not that expensive.
 
mitchman said:
No it won't. Samsung TVs uses the evolution kit which is can be replaced with the model every year and the kit is not that expensive.
Click to expand...

The colour space issue cannot be solved with an evolution kit if the panel of the TV is not designed for Rec. 2020. No evolution kit can magically transform an 8 bit panel into a 10 bit one.
 
So my first problem just occurred on my new Sony Bravia 50" w805b.

The TV do not communicate with the remote controller flawlessly anymore, I have unplugged the TV and pulled the batteries, and for a while it worked again, but after an hour or two it stopped communicating again.

Anyone experiences the same, and/or know whats up/wrong?

update:
Seems like now that the very second I put batteries back into the remote it start sending towards the TV (led on TV blinking, until I block the IR on the remote), something is definitely up with the remote.
 
I saw my first 4k demo reel in walmart today on a 55in Samsung set. I have to say, it was impressive. My question for you more savvy folks is, what is the voodoo there? It was a bunch of nature scenes, ultra sharp, like I could tell it was something more than just 1080p. But, if I'd had the same scenes running on a blu-ray in 1080p next to it, would the difference have been stark?

What I'm trying to get at I guess is, how much of the wow factor is a gimmick powered by well setup nature doc scenes?
 
Hey guys,

Anyone got any pros and cons experience when comparing the sony bravia w7 vs w8 sets?

Looked at both today in the store and I really couldn't see any real noticeable difference.
 
Orcastar said:
If you're only playing on consoles, your TV's refresh rate is completely irrelevant.

That being said, my advice would be to go for the bigger 1080p set since the 4K one will be obsolete within a year.
Click to expand...

As opposed to a 1080p set which will never support 4K ever? I'm not sure how stupid you think we are.

A 4K set today will support 4K tomorrow, if Blu-ray 4K ends up supporting Rec.2020 it will still work on a 4K set bought today but with a reduced color gamut. The 1080p set however will not work with Blu-ray 4K period unless the player downscales the 4K video stream to 1080p which kind of defeats the purpose of having 4K.

Orcastar said:
The colour space issue cannot be solved with an evolution kit if the panel of the TV is not designed for Rec. 2020. No evolution kit can magically transform an 8 bit panel into a 10 bit one.
Click to expand...

I have bad news for you there, Sony has been using wide-gamut 10-bit panels on their top-shelf TVs since forever and their TVs have supported xvYCC (x.v.Color) expanded gamut for all this time too though no content has ever supported that.

Rec.2020 is probably a gamut which is even wider than xvYCC but the point remains that 10-bit panels are in TVs today and so is expanded color gamut. I wouldn't commit suicide if Blu-ray 4K came out supporting Rec.2020 and I bought a Sony player which could downconvert the native gamut to xvYCC, that's still a lot wider than Rec.709.

I'm pretty confident that the BDA won't attempt to suicide Blu-ray 4K in the market by requiring everyone to buy new TVs just to play it back, it will certainly have some kind of encoding for color gamut downconversion on existing TVs.
 
Orcastar said:
The colour space issue cannot be solved with an evolution kit if the panel of the TV is not designed for Rec. 2020. No evolution kit can magically transform an 8 bit panel into a 10 bit one.
Click to expand...

There is no way 4k TVs will be required to support Rec. 2020.
 
eldudebro said:
Hey guys,

Anyone got any pros and cons experience when comparing the sony bravia w7 vs w8 sets?

Looked at both today in the store and I really couldn't see any real noticeable difference.
Click to expand...
All I can tell you is that this year's models and last year's models shouldn't be directly compared by their model numbers. (e.g. The 2014 W950B is actually a successor to the 2013 W850A, so what applies to last year's W8 series may not apply to this year's W8.)
 
Unknown Soldier said:
As opposed to a 1080p set which will never support 4K ever? I'm not sure how stupid you think we are.

A 4K set today will support 4K tomorrow, if Blu-ray 4K ends up supporting Rec.2020 it will still work on a 4K set bought today but with a reduced color gamut. The 1080p set however will not work with Blu-ray 4K period unless the player downscales the 4K video stream to 1080p which kind of defeats the purpose of having 4K.



I have bad news for you there, Sony has been using wide-gamut 10-bit panels on their top-shelf TVs since forever and their TVs have supported xvYCC (x.v.Color) expanded gamut for all this time too though no content has ever supported that.

Rec.2020 is probably a gamut which is even wider than xvYCC but the point remains that 10-bit panels are in TVs today and so is expanded color gamut. I wouldn't commit suicide if Blu-ray 4K came out supporting Rec.2020 and I bought a Sony player which could downconvert the native gamut to xvYCC, that's still a lot wider than Rec.709.

I'm pretty confident that the BDA won't attempt to suicide Blu-ray 4K in the market by requiring everyone to buy new TVs just to play it back, it will certainly have some kind of encoding for color gamut downconversion on existing TVs.
Click to expand...

I never said that you wouldn't be able to watch 4K blu-rays with a 4K set bought today. What I meant was that you won't be getting the full benefit of 4K by doing so, in the same way that you don't get the full benefit of 1080p if you watch blu-rays on a 720p set.

If I absolutely had to buy a TV now, I'd rather buy a good 1080p set and upgrade to a fully Rec. 2020 compliant 4K set in a few years when all this codec/panel bullshit is over and done with and there's actually a decent amount of 4K content available.

If you've got money to burn, however, then by all means, buy a 4K set, be an early adopter and enjoy! Just be aware that there are issues with 4K that will be resolved if you just wait a year or two.
 
Ettie said:
I saw my first 4k demo reel in walmart today on a 55in Samsung set. I have to say, it was impressive. My question for you more savvy folks is, what is the voodoo there? It was a bunch of nature scenes, ultra sharp, like I could tell it was something more than just 1080p. But, if I'd had the same scenes running on a blu-ray in 1080p next to it, would the difference have been stark?

What I'm trying to get at I guess is, how much of the wow factor is a gimmick powered by well setup nature doc scenes?
Click to expand...

I've had that exact demo reel running at home in 1080p. Somehow it still looked 4k, so Samsung must have been clever at picking the right scenes and boosting micro detail and definition...
 
GAF, I'm moving houses in a month and will be looking to upgrade my TV in the transition. I'm looking at 55 inches for the living room but am boiling it down to Sony (W829 I think) or LG.

Suggestions. I will be using it primarily for gaming followed by TV/Movies.
 
So I'm getting a new TV at Christmas (finally upgrading from my crap 720p 32 or something inch Emerson). It's for my bedroom, and I sit fairly close (3-4 feet away usually), so I was looking at maybe a 40 or 42 incher, or somewhere around there. Definitely going 1080p finally, and would obviously like minimal ghosting and input lag, but I don't know whether I should get an LED or LCD (probably don't want Plasma). Also, I don't know what brand, nor do I know what refresh rate to get or anything like that.

I'd like to stay in the $350-450 range if at all possible, though I'm not sure it is. Any recommendations?
 
MattyG said:
So I'm getting a new TV at Christmas (finally upgrading from my crap 720p 32 or something inch Emerson). It's for my bedroom, and I sit fairly close (3-4 feet away usually), so I was looking at maybe a 40 or 42 incher, or somewhere around there. Definitely going 1080p finally, and would obviously like minimal ghosting and input lag, but I don't know whether I should get an LED or LCD (probably don't want Plasma). Also, I don't know what brand, nor do I know what refresh rate to get or anything like that.

I'd like to stay in the $350-450 range if at all possible, though I'm not sure it is. Any recommendations?
Click to expand...

I'm in the same situation, so I would also like some recommendations here as well.

Also, what is the best brand generally? Sony? Samsung?
 
BraXzy said:
I'm looking for a new 40" TV on a budget here in the UK. I've found 4 TV's so far but outside of 1080p and LED, I don't have a clue what makes a TV good or bad. Could anyone give me some insight on these and which I should pick up, if any?

http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00IOQ5TSA/

http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00JNM4V1K/

http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00IJ8PHI0/

This last one is only £197 which is really temping.

http://www.argos.co.uk/static/Product/partNumber/2978374.htm
Click to expand...

Anyone? I'm hopefully going to purchase one soon :3
 
Definitely the Samsung. It will have the best image quality overall. The Panasonic will be like the higher-up models and have crap, laggy, menus and the Bush will be really cheap. You'll regret it immediately. Avoid.
 
Sixfortyfive said:
All I can tell you is that this year's models and last year's models shouldn't be directly compared by their model numbers. (e.g. The 2014 W950B is actually a successor to the 2013 W850A, so what applies to last year's W8 series may not apply to this year's W8.)
Click to expand...


Ah yes, I should have been more specific. I am deciding between the W7 and the 2014 W8 model. From what I gather the only real difference is the W7 does not have 3D, which I wouldn't really use.
 
Ushay said:
GAF, I'm moving houses in a month and will be looking to upgrade my TV in the transition. I'm looking at 55 inches for the living room but am boiling it down to Sony (W829 I think) or LG.

Suggestions. I will be using it primarily for gaming followed by TV/Movies.
Click to expand...

I recommend either a Samsung, Sony, or Vizio. Avoid LG's, they're essentially just overpriced Vizios. Samsung makes the best midrange sets IMO. Vizio gives the best bang for your buck. Sony is really hit or miss. They make some great sets, but they also make some turds like last years overpriced W800a and this years overpriced 1080p flagship. I own this years W800b and I use it almost exclusively for gaming, it's very good for gaming.

MattyG said:
So I'm getting a new TV at Christmas (finally upgrading from my crap 720p 32 or something inch Emerson). It's for my bedroom, and I sit fairly close (3-4 feet away usually), so I was looking at maybe a 40 or 42 incher, or somewhere around there. Definitely going 1080p finally, and would obviously like minimal ghosting and input lag, but I don't know whether I should get an LED or LCD (probably don't want Plasma). Also, I don't know what brand, nor do I know what refresh rate to get or anything like that.

I'd like to stay in the $350-450 range if at all possible, though I'm not sure it is. Any recommendations?
Click to expand...

"LED" tv's use LCD screens, the LED is referring to the backlight. Old LCD sets used a fluorescent lamp as the backlight, and I'm not even sure if you can still buy those new.

For that price range, I'd go with a 2014 Vizio with Full Array backlighting. Lower-tier brand-name sets are typically shit. With Vizio you're getting upper midrange picture quality and lowish input lag at a low price.
 
Are there any good quality 1080p TVs that are 40-50", not a smart TV or 3D capable but just an overall good TV for viewing and for gaming? I can probably handle anything for $1,000 or less. My old Samsung that was a 32", and it wasn't that old, but it no longer powers on and its sound busted prior to even that so I need a TV that'll last.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Sony unveils next-gen RGB mini-LED TV Tech | "OLED Killer?"
2 3
118
9K
dave_d replied
  • Poll
hypothetical: 1080p 60hz OLED, or 4k 144hz LCD?
21
889
mèx replied
  • Poll
Switch 1 OLED or Switch 2 (LCD?) for a newcomer?
Poll Hardware  2 3
105
5K
Pandawan replied
Gaming TV that won't break the bank? Maybe an OLED?
43
2K
KungFucius replied
TFTCentral - Gen 4 LG.Display 2025 OLED Panels and Improvements
0
398
HeisenbergFX4 replied
Top Bottom