"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 1. Read the OP and RISE ABOVE FORGED PRECISION SCIENCE
- Thread starter Hazaro
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Photolysis
Banned
I
Here's mine btw.
45x multiplier at 1.2V? And that's stable?
Someone seems to have won the silicon lottery.
m_shortpants
Member
Perfect, just what I was looking for. Is now a good time to build a PC or is there anything around the corner I should wait for, hardware wise?
AMD is releasing new GPUs rather soon.
opticalmace
Member
AMD's new gpus in June and Intel's next set of CPUs (Skylake) should be late summer. If you're in no hurry then building in Q3 would probably be a good strategy. If you need it now then you'll still get lots of computer for your buck. There's always something new around the corner though, that old game.
Allnamestakenlol
Member
For anyone interested in a barely used GTX 980 (or two) or an R9 290 (w/ aftermarket cooler + copper sinks) at a great price, take a look at my post on the Buy/Sell/Trade thread.
I'm asking for $475 for each 980, or $925 for the pair, and $230 for the R9 290. All three are clean, fast, quiet, and great overclockers. If interested, let me know via PM!
I'm asking for $475 for each 980, or $925 for the pair, and $230 for the R9 290. All three are clean, fast, quiet, and great overclockers. If interested, let me know via PM!
You might wanna drop the r9 290 price, many are retailing new for a lot less.
Allnamestakenlol
Member
Done! I should've checked before posting. $230 should be more competitive, yea? It's got a fair bit of aftermarket cooling that at the time cost me close to $130. Thanks.
Seems like a 120mm fan tower cooler would work best. The 212 Evo is 159mm tall so it just fits inside your case's 165mm CPU cooler height clearance.
RAM isn't an issue as long as you've installed them in the correct slots for dual channel mode, I believe the 212 Evo usually only blocks the RAM slot closest to the processor, although that can vary due to motherboard layout. Even if it does interfere, you can slide the fan upward to accommodate the RAM height underneath, and you should have a bit of room left in the case for that. The 212 Evo costs 28€, so there's that going for it.
There are other options like the Noctua NH-U12S (55€
, according to these tests by TechPowerUp at lower clock speeds it doesn't perform very differently than the 212 Evo, but where it shines is when the processor is overclocked and running at very high loads, it outperforms the 212 Evo by 19 degrees Celsius. It's also a fair bit quieter according to the noise charts. Tweaktown's testing didn't have the 212 Evo for thermal testing comparison, but they were also very happy with the noise levels. Still, it costs nearly twice as much as the 212 Evo.Above that in price and performance levels would be the Noctua NH-D15 (82€
. I do not believe it would be compatible with your RAM and case, though. Your 230T case is said to have 165mm clearance for CPU coolers and that's exactly how tall the NH-D15 is.. and that doesn't take into account the fact that you may have to move the fan higher to accommodate the RAM underneath. You could move the outside fan to the other side of the radiator, but that's not optimal fan placement and temperatures would be somewhat higher.Looking through this list.. the PNY XLR8 Pro OC looks fairly good. Not a lot of reviews, but Hardware Canucks really liked it. PNY also offers a lifetime warranty, but only if you register. If you don't register, it's only one year long.
Otherwise if you don't mind, at Newegg there's the EVGA GTX 980 FTW ACX 2.0 for $482 - a pretty good price considering GTX 980s rarely drop under $500. It's only that cheap because of stacking a $10 mail in rebate with a 10% off discount coupon at that link.
Bumping for the new page. Don't wanna start messing with voltage options before I know what I'm doing. Also Is it easy to make the CPU run at stock or slower speeds when not gaming?
Stumpokapow
listen to the mad man
Since everyone was so great yesterday, I just wanted to ask one final question: Is it standard in a modern overclocking build to upgrade the case fans? Case is Define R5, CPU has a way way overkill cooler, objective is primarily about making things silent but if temperatures are lowered as well, more's the better. It looks like the case has 2 140mm fans designed for low noise.
Unnecessary to replace personally. If anything, additional case fans if you want more cooling. In my case (hah), I replaced the front case fans with higher CFM fans and moved the original front case fans to act as side intake and/or top exhaust. There's a program called HWMonitor I've used extensively where you can see your CPU, GPU and HDD temps. I excessively gotten my HDD temps down because I believe it'll lead to longer life spans for them with the reduce heat. Bad external HDD experiences lead me down that path.
While this test is over 3 years old I still think that it provides some interesting information.
Personally I run an R5 with Noctua NF-A14 FLX fans for intake in the front (x2) and bottom. I use the supplied Fractal fan in the rear as an exhaust. This allows you to leave all of the moduvents in place for maximum silence.
There's much debate about if the premium fans (like Noctua) are worth the money. I'd suggest trying your build with the supplied fans and then add extras if you're not satisfied with the temps. For most the small differences aren't worth the price, but I'm happy!
Personally I run an R5 with Noctua NF-A14 FLX fans for intake in the front (x2) and bottom. I use the supplied Fractal fan in the rear as an exhaust. This allows you to leave all of the moduvents in place for maximum silence.
There's much debate about if the premium fans (like Noctua) are worth the money. I'd suggest trying your build with the supplied fans and then add extras if you're not satisfied with the temps. For most the small differences aren't worth the price, but I'm happy!
i have the define r4 and i'm very happy with the stock fans airflow and noise.
i would recommend buying 1 extra case fan to add to the front, so you can have 2 intake fans and 1 exhaust. this gives you static pressure and helps with dust.
I'm taking things slowly and still weighing my options for my first build. I'm currently debating whether to wait for a good deal on a GTX 960 4GB or to pull the trigger on a 970 in the $300 range.
Is the VRAM in the GTX 970 at all a concern at this point? I had read that if more than 3.5GB is used and the remaining (slower) RAM is accessed it causes games to stutter. Has this been patched or anything or will this be a problem for the life of the card?
Is the VRAM in the GTX 970 at all a concern at this point? I had read that if more than 3.5GB is used and the remaining (slower) RAM is accessed it causes games to stutter. Has this been patched or anything or will this be a problem for the life of the card?
The VRAM thing is a hardware issue, so it can't be patched. So far nVidia seem to be making the drivers avoid using the last 500MB of VRAM in games unless its absolutely necessary, but who knows how long that will continue for.
Still, if you can at all afford it, I'd absolutely get the 970 over the 960. The 960 is a very poor value, especially compared to AMD's cards in the same price range.
Modern components produce a lot less heat than previous stuff. So, you don't really need to worry about that unless you have a pretty significant GPU setup going on.
The stock fans that come with the Define R5 are plenty for any modern single GPU setup, and better fans would most likely not make much of a difference if any.
Also, I ended up having a bit too much fun last night, but it looks like RGM came in with most of the links that I wanted to provide. However, here's a couple things if you want to get started going down the path of understanding everything that goes into a motherboard.
Watch this video by Sin as he goes over almost everything on one of the most complex, overbuilt, and amazing motherboards ever
Also, the videos with JJ from ASUS, despite obviously marketing, are really informative. The guy knows his shit.
*edit*
Also, a bit of a curveball for you, but have you given any thought to going mATX since you aren't planning on SLI? It still provides that option in the future, should you decide to. But, even at my level of "enthusiast", I still only use mATX these days with a single GPU. Some of my favorite mATX cases:
Node 304
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Phanteks Enthoo Evolv
Corsair Air 240
Thanks for your input! I was considering AMD but must admit that I have... reservations that I won't get into here. That's why it's between the 960 and 970.
In addition, I'm not terribly concerned about being on the bleeding edge which keeps the 960 in the running. However, I've come to understand that games are starting to require more than 2GB of VRAM to run adequately at decent quality settings so I would rather get the longevity out of a 4GB card. The 970's design of being 3.5GB supplemented by a .5GB partition seems to be unique in the market and that causes me concern.
Edit: And I can absolutely afford the 970. Or a 980. Or a Titan. But I'll be playing a lot more Indy games or going back to play the "definitive" versions of games like Dark Souls than I'll be playing games like Witcher 3. I won't be going above 1080p and don't really think 60fps is necessary outside of fighting and character action games -- and I'm still likely to play those genres on console.
i've had my i5 + gtx 960 for a few days now, all housed in a define r4, from a phenom ii and a 6850.
seriously, they are still blowing my mind. i'm used to having such louder GPUs, for as long as i can remember. i always bought non reference cards as well and setup custom fan curves to make the fans slower.
the 960 is idling at 28C right now. the fans stay off so zero noise, unless it hits 60C. it only goes that high if i play a game that uses like more than 80% of its power and even then the fans go to 20% and are dead silent and it will stay around 60C. i've used rivatuner/afterburner for like 10 years and i'm thinking about just uninstalling it, no need to worry about GPU temps or setting up a custom profile.
CPU idling at 25C and running the cpu fan at 25% speed on a 212
it feels like these parts were designed for like a HTPC or something, they are so cool and efficient, but nope, these are full desktop offerings.
everything is just so quiet. i'm used to louder PCs as well, all my life i could hear my PC fans spinning. now when i examine my case for the loudest part, its my power supply, which is a very quiet 6 y/o antec and the mechanical HDDs, which are damn quiet.
i saw huge gains in games obviously, and now the ps2 emulator is very playable, maxing everything. playing through DQ8 right now. i couldn't watch 4k youtube videos but now they play very smoothly.
i wish i sprang for the version with a side window, my gpu has pretty cool looking LED on the side. i think that's becoming more and more standard, i didn't realize that.
i hope nvidia/intel will continue to focus on making efficient and quiet cards.
my ps4 is louder.
seriously, they are still blowing my mind. i'm used to having such louder GPUs, for as long as i can remember. i always bought non reference cards as well and setup custom fan curves to make the fans slower.
the 960 is idling at 28C right now. the fans stay off so zero noise, unless it hits 60C. it only goes that high if i play a game that uses like more than 80% of its power and even then the fans go to 20% and are dead silent and it will stay around 60C. i've used rivatuner/afterburner for like 10 years and i'm thinking about just uninstalling it, no need to worry about GPU temps or setting up a custom profile.
CPU idling at 25C and running the cpu fan at 25% speed on a 212
it feels like these parts were designed for like a HTPC or something, they are so cool and efficient, but nope, these are full desktop offerings.
everything is just so quiet. i'm used to louder PCs as well, all my life i could hear my PC fans spinning. now when i examine my case for the loudest part, its my power supply, which is a very quiet 6 y/o antec and the mechanical HDDs, which are damn quiet.
i saw huge gains in games obviously, and now the ps2 emulator is very playable, maxing everything. playing through DQ8 right now. i couldn't watch 4k youtube videos but now they play very smoothly.
i wish i sprang for the version with a side window, my gpu has pretty cool looking LED on the side. i think that's becoming more and more standard, i didn't realize that.
i hope nvidia/intel will continue to focus on making efficient and quiet cards.
my ps4 is louder.
charlequin
Banned
... Yes. Maybe I dreamt the other one. (yes I dream about computer cases)The Node 504 doesn't seem to exist. Do you mean the 804?
Stumpokapow
listen to the mad man
Thanks everyone. I'll go with the stock Define fans and play around (CPU cooler is an enormous Noctua cooler and I don't plan on overclocking very high so I really imagine I'm taken care of) and if I need to get more I'll do that later.
Watching now. I can definitely tell you that ... some of this stuff seems cool but definitely not for me. It's still nice to see what you actually get for the extra few hundred dollars!
I have 6 hard drives and now an SSD. I know some of the mATX cases can fit a full rack of drives, but that's why I've shied away in the past. The Node looks really nice. My aesthetic sense is very much minimal, so I'm happiest when i'm looking at a nondescript, box with clean lines.
Watching now. I can definitely tell you that ... some of this stuff seems cool but definitely not for me. It's still nice to see what you actually get for the extra few hundred dollars!
I have 6 hard drives and now an SSD. I know some of the mATX cases can fit a full rack of drives, but that's why I've shied away in the past. The Node looks really nice. My aesthetic sense is very much minimal, so I'm happiest when i'm looking at a nondescript, box with clean lines.
Ok, I'm done with my Linksys WRT400N router. The thing shuts down frequently, it's not working well with my roommate's Surface Pro, and it often gives me super slow speeds and I have to reboot it multiple times to get it to work well again. I thought installing dd-wrt would fix it, but alas I've seen no improvement.
So I decided to go on Amazon and get something else...
Jesus, there are so many routers these days. I have no idea which to choose. I definitely don't think I wanna go back to Linksys again. Is this a good choice, or can I get something better for my money? I'm thinking $40 to $70 max is what I'm prepared to pay
Help me, GAF!
So I decided to go on Amazon and get something else...
Jesus, there are so many routers these days. I have no idea which to choose. I definitely don't think I wanna go back to Linksys again. Is this a good choice, or can I get something better for my money? I'm thinking $40 to $70 max is what I'm prepared to pay
Help me, GAF!
charlequin
Banned
http://thewirecutter.com/reviews/best-cheap-router/
http://thewirecutter.com/reviews/best-wi-fi-router/#
Their recommendation for cheap, the TP-LINK TL-WDR3600, will run you $55 on Amazon, though instead of being a cheapass I'd just go up to their general-purpose best, the TP-LINK Archer C7, which will run you $90 instead.
UGH. So now that my cpu cooler is cleaned and has a new fan, I figured I'd try upping the OC on my 2500k. I had at 4.0ghz 24/7 at stock voltages for three years, but it refused to save any changes to the cpu ratio past 40, so I reset the CMOS and now I can't overclock the CPU at all. It resets to stock clock speeds every time I restart... What can I do? I have a Biostar TZ68A+.
EDIT: I updated the BIOS, and I still can't overclock.
EDIT: I updated the BIOS, and I still can't overclock.
m_shortpants
Member
I was thinking of building before Witcher and Batman, but I could wait I suppose...
Hmm, might be a difficult decision. Do I play them on PS4 first and wait or build the PC?
I don't know, it's hard for me to justify the Archer C7 when I'm living in a small apartment with no 802.11ac devices...
But I'm glad to know that the TL-WDR3600 is a good choice. Thank you!
All changes in the BIOS keep reverting? The CMOS battery (circled in green) might be dead or not installed properly.
All changes in the BIOS keep reverting? The CMOS battery (circled in green) might be dead or not installed properly.
Nope, just changes to the CPU ratio... Other setting changes save fine upon restart. Thank you for the input though, this is getting super frustrating.
This mobo was very well-recived when it first came out, lots of reviewers were able to get 2500K's to 4.7 without issue. I don't remember what I changed before to get to 4.0, no..
But everyone says that ocing sandy bridge is just a matter of changing the clock and upping the vcore a little for a decent clock speed. My issue is I can't get any changes to CPU ratio to save at all. There are two images of my Bios settings a page or two back on this thread if you want to see them. Thanks for the help.
Allnamestakenlol
Member
longdi
Banned
http://www.overclock.net/t/918759/biostar-tp67xe-motherboard-discussion-thread-w-template
You can refer above thread.
I would first try disable fixed cpu ratio. And change each of the core limits under turbo mode to 40x, 42x if you want to try more..
Make sure to disable auto vcore. SB takes about 1.24v to 1.3v at 42x.
You can refer above thread.
I would first try disable fixed cpu ratio. And change each of the core limits under turbo mode to 40x, 42x if you want to try more..
Make sure to disable auto vcore. SB takes about 1.24v to 1.3v at 42x.
It seems like my cores will save to 40 all except one. Then if I run prime95 my clock speed will stay stuck at 3.4 :/
You'll definitely be fine with the R5 case fans. It'll probably be more likely that you wind up wanting to replace the case fans over noise issues rather than heat issues, and given you went with the Noctua even that shouldn't be very likely.
Yeah, the video isn't as much about selling you on a fancy motherboard, but just to show the level of detail that goes into motherboards. Far beyond what's reasonable to research, if that makes sense.
longdi
Banned
That is throttling for you.
Because 2500K uses external VRM power, your motherboard plays a bigger role in overclocking and so it seems your Biostar one is not equipped to handle high overclocks loads, hence it throttles to prevent exploding VRM.
CPU: Intel Core i7-5960X 3.0GHz 8-Core Processor
CPU Cooler: Corsair H100i 77.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler
Motherboard: Asus RAMPAGE V EXTREME EATX LGA2011-3
Memory: Corsair Dominator Platinum 32GB (4 x 8GB) DDR4-2666 Memory
Storage: Samsung 850 Pro Series 1TB 2.5" Solid State Drive
Videocard: EVGA GeForce GTX Titan X 12GB Video Card
Case: Cooler Master Cosmos II (Black) ATX Full Tower Case
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA 1000 P2 1000W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular ATX
Drive: LG WH14NS40 Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer
Monitor: Asus ROG SWIFT PG278Q (Hoping Asus fixed all problems)
Mouse: Logitech G910 Orion Spark Wired Gaming Keyboard
Keyboard: Logitech G502 Wired Optical Mouse
OS: Windows 7 until Windows 10 is released
This will be my first time I built my PC.
a Few question:
1. Whats quietest and most reliable Harddrive for 4tb to 6tb drives. Was going to get WD Black but noise level is high, I don't trust seagate. I was leaning toward Hitachi Deskstar or Ultrastar 7k4000. ( Will be installing 3 drives in non-Raid setup)
2. Should I use the stock fans from the case or should I grab different fans like Corsair High performance or Quiet Edition fans?
3. Is their any changes I should make to my list or suggestions(Different Blu-Ray Drive, PSU, etc...)?
4. Lastly trying best to make it as quiet as possible.
5. If I want to do Water Cooling system later on, Anyone have a link to a simple setup (with a complete step by step guide video or Pictures)?
CPU Cooler: Corsair H100i 77.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler
Motherboard: Asus RAMPAGE V EXTREME EATX LGA2011-3
Memory: Corsair Dominator Platinum 32GB (4 x 8GB) DDR4-2666 Memory
Storage: Samsung 850 Pro Series 1TB 2.5" Solid State Drive
Videocard: EVGA GeForce GTX Titan X 12GB Video Card
Case: Cooler Master Cosmos II (Black) ATX Full Tower Case
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA 1000 P2 1000W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular ATX
Drive: LG WH14NS40 Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer
Monitor: Asus ROG SWIFT PG278Q (Hoping Asus fixed all problems)
Mouse: Logitech G910 Orion Spark Wired Gaming Keyboard
Keyboard: Logitech G502 Wired Optical Mouse
OS: Windows 7 until Windows 10 is released
This will be my first time I built my PC.
a Few question:
1. Whats quietest and most reliable Harddrive for 4tb to 6tb drives. Was going to get WD Black but noise level is high, I don't trust seagate. I was leaning toward Hitachi Deskstar or Ultrastar 7k4000. ( Will be installing 3 drives in non-Raid setup)
2. Should I use the stock fans from the case or should I grab different fans like Corsair High performance or Quiet Edition fans?
3. Is their any changes I should make to my list or suggestions(Different Blu-Ray Drive, PSU, etc...)?
4. Lastly trying best to make it as quiet as possible.
5. If I want to do Water Cooling system later on, Anyone have a link to a simple setup (with a complete step by step guide video or Pictures)?
Those 8 cores of 59xx produces a lot of heat, especially when overclocking above 4.2Ghz. I won't recommend going air cooling for Haswell-E series, personally.
StarPlatinumTheWorld
Member
I have i5-4690k and a gtx 760, am I screwed for Witcher 3? Even like medium settings? Will it look better than console?
Let me check my crystal ball real quick.
StarPlatinumTheWorld
Member
Cheers bro, thank you for the help!
There's no indication that air cooling is not enough for Haswell-E. In this chart of tests performed by XBit Labs using the 3970X @ 4.4GHz (which I might add has a TDP of 150 watts compared to the 5960X having a 140 watt TDP), the NH-D15 performs very well.
In Bit-Tech's testing (3960X @ 4.2GHz), the NH-D15 with dual fans narrowly outperforms the H100i on their overclocked 3960X testing platform. Overclock3D's testing (3960X @ 4.4GHz) reports that the NH-D15 with a single fan was slightly edged out by the H100i in another 3960X overclocked test.
If you search around for benchmarks yourself, you will see that the NH-D15 is generally on par with the H100i, sometimes a degree or two warmer or cooler depending on the testing environment. Water cooling is really only superior to air cooling when the environment favors it. More often than not, air cooling represents much better cost to performance ratios. Only custom loop water cooling or the most expensive of closed loop cooling (Swiftech H240-X for example) is definitely superior, but at a much higher price premium.
Hip Hop
Member
So I just tried to overclock my cpu for the first time after getting all the cables you guys recommended for my fans.
So I go do it after reading a guide, and I'm greeted with a "Diagnostic Repair" after booting. Is this something that happens when you overclock?
Went back to default BIOS settings after that.
So I go do it after reading a guide, and I'm greeted with a "Diagnostic Repair" after booting. Is this something that happens when you overclock?
Went back to default BIOS settings after that.
i know zilch about overclocking so i tried my bios built in overclocking on the i5-4690k. basically, select your wanted speed and it will auto fill in the settings. i know people say this is a crappy way to do it but i was just experimenting, and didn't feel like learning how to OC atm. 4.0ghz, 4.2ghz, 4.4ghz, all worked rather flawlessly. i just set it as 4.0ghz and went on my way, figuring i'll learn about "proper" overclocking later and forgot all about it.
anyways, the next day my firefox browser started crashing. literally every 2-3 min it would crash, like clockwork. i tried disabling addons, reinstalling, basic stuff you are supposed to do for troubleshooting.
i started reading through the crash report, and it used all sorts of jargon i didn't understand. i also saw the letters FSB in one of error reports, and i remember this was an overclock term and i remembered i was OC'ed.
restarted and set it back to stock speed and my browser was stable as a rock. had no idea that could happen, lol. thought it was amusing, since it did fine on prime95 and such so i thought it was stable. pretty cool that could lead to my browser crashing, since its not that resource intensive at all.
anyways, the next day my firefox browser started crashing. literally every 2-3 min it would crash, like clockwork. i tried disabling addons, reinstalling, basic stuff you are supposed to do for troubleshooting.
i started reading through the crash report, and it used all sorts of jargon i didn't understand. i also saw the letters FSB in one of error reports, and i remember this was an overclock term and i remembered i was OC'ed.
restarted and set it back to stock speed and my browser was stable as a rock. had no idea that could happen, lol. thought it was amusing, since it did fine on prime95 and such so i thought it was stable. pretty cool that could lead to my browser crashing, since its not that resource intensive at all.
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