Plasma, LCD, OLED, LED, best tv for next gen

Just got my 65B6 this week and have questions for LG OLED owners out there:

  • For the "Black Level" setting, is does Low = Full RGB or High?
  • What does Real Cinema do?
  • Should I always game in "Game" mode (assuming no HDR) or one of the ISF modes?

I'm a bit on the fence in terms of satisfaction after upgrading from a Panny ST50. TV and movies look fantastic and doing anything in daylight is much easier on the eyes now (picture isn't washed out), but motion resolution and input lag has me feeling a bit put off. I've been playing Red Dead on Xbox One and something just feels off after moving to the B6. I notice more judder when panning and running. The input lag shouldn't be much worse than the ST50 (based on the limited testing I've seen), but it's just not quite the same.

With the recent Newegg deal I wish I would have waited to buy the B6! Stuck with it now so I'll see if I get used to it.
 
Retailers won't price march these ebay sellers because they are usually selling at cost.

As for your second question, it would be a monumental upgrade. Far better colors, black levels, and resolution.

Does that include 1080p content (which would still be the majority of content)?

I'm going to be near my local Best Buy tomorrow, so I'm planning to stop there, see if it's on display and/or ask what they can offer. If they won't price match what's on eBay, perhaps I can convince them to throw in a UHD player.

I really would prefer getting the TV from Best Buy because A) I would get 24 months no finance, so incremental payments and B) it would be easier to exchange/return if necessary.
 
Just got my 65B6 this week and have questions for LG OLED owners out there:

  • For the "Black Level" setting, is does Low = Full RGB or High?
  • What does Real Cinema do?
  • Should I always game in "Game" mode (assuming no HDR) or one of the ISF modes?

I'm a bit on the fence in terms of satisfaction after upgrading from a Panny ST50. TV and movies look fantastic and doing anything in daylight is much easier on the eyes now (picture isn't washed out), but motion resolution and input lag has me feeling a bit put off. I've been playing Red Dead on Xbox One and something just feels off after moving to the B6. I notice more judder when panning and running. The input lag shouldn't be much worse than the ST50 (based on the limited testing I've seen), but it's just not quite the same.

With the recent Newegg deal I wish I would have waited to buy the B6! Stuck with it now so I'll see if I get used to it.

Low it limited, full is RGB
Game mode for sure
Real cinema is for 24p content

Game mode and turn everything else off.
 
Just got my 65B6 this week and have questions for LG OLED owners out there:

  • For the "Black Level" setting, is does Low = Full RGB or High?
  • What does Real Cinema do?
  • Should I always game in "Game" mode (assuming no HDR) or one of the ISF modes?

  • Black Level should ideally be on Low (if you keep most of the default settings, especially on Game mode where you don't have the finer adjustments of the ISF modes). Black Level on High did nothing but make the perfect blacks more washed out (on my calibration, at least). Note: you can calibrate around Black Level: High, but in my experience it was easier to get a proper calibration with it set to Low. This setting is more dependent on what your source material is (i.e. whether you're sending the TV RGB Full or Limited content).
  • Real Cinema seems to go hand-in-hand with Tru-Motion, in that it's for removing Judder (basically it ensures that frame processing time is consistent).
  • If you're playing games, Game mode is a must (especially on the B6). You'll also (supposedly) get a bit of input lag time back if you set your HDMI input's icon to PC (and it enables chroma 4:4:4 support).
In my case, I set up everything on Game mode. Once I was happy with the calibration, I just decided to use it for everything. The ISF modes can look marginally better, but it's not that big of a deal (to me). Properly calibrated, they look pretty close.

Your ideal gaming mode should be Game mode + PC HDMI icon, with Real Cinema and Trumotion off (as well as any additional processing modes turned off).

With a properly calibrated game mode, there's no major motion resolution differences between this and the Panasonic plasma that I used before this new E6. The picture quality of the E6 is so much better, though.
 
Does that include 1080p content (which would still be the majority of content)?

I'm going to be near my local Best Buy tomorrow, so I'm planning to stop there, see if it's on display and/or ask what they can offer. If they won't price match what's on eBay, perhaps I can convince them to throw in a UHD player.

I really would prefer getting the TV from Best Buy because A) I would get 24 months no finance, so incremental payments and B) it would be easier to exchange/return if necessary.

Oh yes, even 1080p content would be far superior on the OLED due to it's panel technology.
 
So is there any word how long that eBay sale is going to last?

I'm a little worried that I might lose the price if I wait until tomorrow. If I ordered today to be safe, would I still have time to cancel by tomorrow in case Best Buy matched it?

If it's an authorized eBay seller, that means eBay would have me covered in the event of returns/exchanges, right?
 
So is there any word how long that eBay sale is going to last?

I'm a little worried that I might lose the price if I wait until tomorrow. If I ordered today to be safe, would I still have time to cancel by tomorrow in case Best Buy matched it?

If it's an authorized eBay seller, that means eBay would have me covered in the event of returns/exchanges, right?

I think the odds of the sale ending very much overwhelm the odds of Best Buy matching.

It's a legit high-quality e-retailer so yeah Ebay has your back but they are good. At the end of the day you're risking shipping the TV back at your dime b/c you don't like it, but the risk is worth it for the discount.
 
I think the odds of the sale ending very much overwhelm the odds of Best Buy matching.

It's a legit high-quality e-retailer so yeah Ebay has your back but they are good. At the end of the day you're risking shipping the TV back at your dime b/c you don't like it, but the risk is worth it for the discount.

Pretty sure I wouldn't have any complaints, I'm just worried if I got shipped a faulty TV. According to their return policies, the manufacturer would cover any technical issues with the TV, while they would handle anything caused by damage through transit.
 
yeh this sale is not lasting til tomorrow. buy now. bestbuy will absolutely not price match it.

you can pay with PayPal 6 months no interest if you want.
 
yeh this sale is not lasting til tomorrow. buy now. bestbuy will absolutely not price match it.

you can pay with PayPal 6 months no interest if you want.

Just one more question. A TV tech buddy of mine cautioned that LG sets tend to have an aggressive amount of ABL (automatic brightness limiter).

Since I've been using LCD/LEDs forever, I don't know for sure if that's a thing that would annoy me or not. More opinions on that would be welcome. He also told me that otherwise the TV is perfect.
 
Just one more question. A TV tech buddy of mine cautioned that LG sets tend to have an aggressive amount of ABL (automatic brightness limiter).

Since I've been using LCD/LEDs forever, I don't know for sure if that's a thing that would annoy me or not. More opinions on that would be welcome. He also told me that otherwise the TV is perfect.

I've not noticed it outside of leaving the screen on a static image for a period of time.
 
I've not noticed it outside of leaving the screen on a static image for a period of time.

That seems to be the case. Googling doesn't seem to bring it up as a widespread problem.

In any case, ordered. I really hope it arrives safely and meets my expectations (and arrives before FFXV...latest date is Nov 30th).

In regards to selling old TV sets, is there a better alternative than Craigslist? I've sold a couple of things from Craigslist before, but I always get antsy meeting people through it (doesn't help I live in Miami).
 
Is there a specific company that is leading the way with TVs right now? LG? Samsung? Sony?

It sounds like LG E6 is really recommended but there is no HDR on gaming mode. Hopefully a 2017 version has it. I'll pick it up before Destiny 2 drops
 
Speaking of HDR, what was the cheap fix someone discovered in order to let you use the receiver from the PSVR in order to keep it?
 
Is there a specific company that is leading the way with TVs right now? LG? Samsung? Sony?

It sounds like LG E6 is really recommended but there is no HDR on gaming mode. Hopefully a 2017 version has it. I'll pick it up before Destiny 2 drops

I'm not 100% sure I'm on top of everything, but I see it like this:
-LG is on top with pushing OLED, which is fabulous tech
-Sony has the best processing and best overall LCD available (but expensive). I'm blown away input lag wasn't a top priority, given PS4 and all that.
-Samsung makes great LCD panels, and a great, well balanced LCD for the money. Input lag is great. (I've had bad luck with buggy firmware but maybe it's better?)
-Vizio has made great strides and has a CTO that is engaged with the community, which is a HUGE plus in my book.

Sadly that's all I'd consider in the US. I'm shocked to put Vizio on this list.
 
Speaking of HDR, what was the cheap fix someone discovered in order to let you use the receiver from the PSVR in order to keep it?

So did you go with the E6? Congrats, what a sick deal.


I'm not 100% sure I'm on top of everything, but I see it like this:
-LG is on top with pushing OLED, which is fabulous tech
-Sony has the best processing and best overall LCD available (but expensive). I'm blown away input lag wasn't a top priority, given PS4 and all that.
-Samsung makes great LCD panels, and a great, well balanced LCD for the money. Input lag is great. (I've had bad luck with buggy firmware but maybe it's better?)
-Vizio has made great strides and has a CTO that is engaged with the community, which is a HUGE plus in my book.

Sadly that's all I'd consider in the US. I'm shocked to put Vizio on this list.
Nicely written.

Damn I think I want the c6p. Are there any downsides to curved screen? Those eBay prices are to friggin good to pass up

The reflections are a bit distorted, but owners of curved TVs usually get used to it and forget about the curve after a while.
 
Is the E6 worth $300 more than the C6 if I have a dedicated home theater 5.1 for sound and don't need to worry about reflections since it is almost exclusively for night time use in the basement?
 
What's wrong with curved? I was gonna get the C6 because its the same price as B6, but has 3D.

Only you can know if the curve is ok. Some people love it. I had the same thought, save a bit and get 3D but I didn't want a curve. It was a mental discussion at $800 for me, but not at $300.
 
Only you can know if the curve is ok. Some people love it. I had the same thought, save a bit and get 3D but I didn't want a curve. It was a mental discussion at $800 for me, but not at $300.

What did you end up going with?

precisely.

why go curve when you get get flat plus better design for only $300 more?

I actually prefer the minimalist design of the B6/C6. You don't get the glass bezel of the E6, but think Tvs look better sans soundbar.
 
What's wrong with curved? I was gonna get the C6 because its the same price as B6, but has 3D.

Nothing wrong with curved, I own the 65EG9600 and the 65C6P, love both of them and very happy to have the curved screen.

Edit: I think a lot of people's aversion to curved screens is because edge lit screens have issues with curved displays, but OLEDs do not have those issues.
 

Guys best TV for HDR is Sony hands down.

While the technologies Sony has developed for the 65ZD9 make it brilliant with HD and SDR content, they really come into their own when pushed to their limits with 4K HDR footage from Netflix, Amazon or, especially, Ultra HD Blu-ray.

The first thing you notice is how spectacularly bright the images are. Remarkably the 65ZD9 manages brightness levels even higher than those achieved by Samsung’s KS9500 TVs, allowing it to express HDR’s trademark bright highlights and colour peaks even more successfully and boldly.

Presumably this ground-breaking brightness owes a debt to the 65ZD9’s unique combination of focused beam technology (which allows multiple LEDs to focus their light in the same part of the screen) and X-Tended Dynamic Range technology (which redistributes power from dark parts of the image that don’t need it to the bright parts that do).

The 65ZD9’s unprecedented brightness knocks on into its colour performance, as it serves up wonderfully intense, rich tones with wide colour spectrum HDR sources that makes the pictures leap off the screen and into your living room in a way we haven’t seen before. Ever. There’s nothing gaudy about this colour talent, though. Tones across the board look believable and balanced, as well as containing incredible degrees of tonal subtlety. Indeed, the 65ZD9 makes a compelling argument that it’s only through brightness that you can really unlock the very tiniest tonal differences that really bring pictures to life.

Seeing the way Deadpool’s grubby red suit stood out against the cloudy skies during the bridge shoot out sequences on the film’s Ultra HD Blu-ray was a revelation, making me feel more aware than ever before of the impact of HDR on these scenes.

Arguably even more impressive was how astonishingly detailed native 4K sources look on the 65ZD9. So much so that Ultra HD Blu-ray discs I’d previously felt looked a bit soft suddenly morphed into the real 4K deal. Using Deadpool as an example again, we could see textures and areas of wear and scuffing in Deadpool’s suit that we hadn't seen before on any other 4K HDR TV.

This speaks again to the stellar quality of Sony’s colour accuracy, which seems capable of unlocking details other TVs cannot.

All this and we still haven’t covered the single most important ability of the 65ZD9: its backlight management. The thing is, even though it’s capable of delivering unprecedented brightness peaks it manages to produce these while suffering much less with backlight striping, haloing or ‘torchlighting’ than any other LCD-based HDR TV. This instantly makes dark HDR scenes far more immersive and authentic.
 
Can you swing an extra $80? You're going to get a lot more bang for your buck with this guys instead. It's a smart TV, which the one you linked isn't. I'd imagine the panel is significantly better on this guys as well.

http://www.pcrichard.com/Samsung/Samsung-40inch-Class-4K-HDR-Ultra-HD-LED-Smart-TV/UN40KU6290.pcrp

Sign up for their newsletter for an additional $25 off, and it's free shipping. Tax Free for everywhere but NY/NJ (So that might make it more like $60 difference after tax instead). The quality of the TV will be far superior to that.

http://www.rtings.com/tv/reviews/by-size/40-42-43-inch/best?uxtv=e0df

It's their second pick for the size range (Best site for TV's out there I knew of outside AVS forums)

6290 is the same as the 6300 just without a smart remote or bluetooth.
so 4K is the way to go? even if I don't have any 4K media players and still watch DVDs I get from japan becoz buying from japan is hella expensive and I'd rather save a few bucks by buying DVDs instead of blue rays? Likewise at redbox I save a few cents renting DVDs instead of blue ray so I rent those instead?

despite my cheapness, I can put up the extra cash to go 4K. I wonder why it's much cheaper to go 4K on that size versus upping the size to a 48 incher? (it's like $200 more!!!)

anywayz, thanks for the recommendation!

I'm gonna buy it from Best Buy! but again, not gonna open it until the end of the month, in case a better deal comes around between now and BF.

But at $330, I do think it's a good deal!
 
  • Black Level should ideally be on Low (if you keep most of the default settings, especially on Game mode where you don't have the finer adjustments of the ISF modes). Black Level on High did nothing but make the perfect blacks more washed out (on my calibration, at least). Note: you can calibrate around Black Level: High, but in my experience it was easier to get a proper calibration with it set to Low. This setting is more dependent on what your source material is (i.e. whether you're sending the TV RGB Full or Limited content).
  • Real Cinema seems to go hand-in-hand with Tru-Motion, in that it's for removing Judder (basically it ensures that frame processing time is consistent).
  • If you're playing games, Game mode is a must (especially on the B6). You'll also (supposedly) get a bit of input lag time back if you set your HDMI input's icon to PC (and it enables chroma 4:4:4 support).
In my case, I set up everything on Game mode. Once I was happy with the calibration, I just decided to use it for everything. The ISF modes can look marginally better, but it's not that big of a deal (to me). Properly calibrated, they look pretty close.

Your ideal gaming mode should be Game mode + PC HDMI icon, with Real Cinema and Trumotion off (as well as any additional processing modes turned off).

With a properly calibrated game mode, there's no major motion resolution differences between this and the Panasonic plasma that I used before this new E6. The picture quality of the E6 is so much better, though.

I usually try to calibrate using Full RGB color space but my DirecTV receiver seems to only output Limited color space. So Black Level Low = Limited and Black Level High = Full.

Good to know about the PC icon. I read somewhere else that we should be using the Game icon to get the lowest lag. Didn't rtings.com show more lag with 4:4:4? I hate having to switch picture modes when changing sources but I haven't gotten game mode dialed in to look as good as the ISF modes yet.
 
so 4K is the way to go? even if I don't have any 4K media players and still watch DVDs I get from japan becoz buying from japan is hella expensive and I'd rather save a few bucks by buying DVDs instead of blue rays? Likewise at redbox I save a few cents renting DVDs instead of blue ray so I rent those instead?

despite my cheapness, I can put up the extra cash to go 4K. I wonder why it's much cheaper to go 4K on that size versus upping the size to a 48 incher? (it's like $200 more!!!)

anywayz, thanks for the recommendation!

I'm gonna buy it from Best Buy! but again, not gonna open it until the end of the month, in case a better deal comes around between now and BF.

But at $330, I do think it's a good deal!

Yea the nice thing is it's a great quality TV generally, and cheap so if down the line you decide to step up to a nicer 4K full HDR set you'll probably be able to get a nice chunk of your cash back.
 
Man, I really enjoy my E6. I think it's a brilliant TV, but if it doesn't satisfy me with HDR gaming in the next 6 months I'll be looking at LG's 2017 models.
 
I actually prefer the minimalist design of the B6/C6. You don't get the glass bezel of the E6, but think Tvs look better sans soundbar.

I normally hate curved screens but the C6 to me is different.
It's not nearly as obvious as it is with some Samsung curved sets. To me it's pretty subtle.

Also I agree I like the look of the B6/C6 over the E6/G6. The sound bar ruins them for me and I wouldn't even be using them.
 
For those bringing up the input lag of the LG OLED, I've been trying to find what the input lag on my current TV is to see if it would better or worse.

According to Google, the results have been:

Regular Viewing Mode:

- Movie Mode - 118 ms
- Standard Mode - 100 ms
- Standard Mode - Dynamic Contrast on Low - 100 ms
- Standard Mode - Auto Motion Plus on Clear - 99 ms
- Standard Mode - Auto Motion Plus on Standard - 100 ms

I've been playing on Dynamic picture mode (contrast at 100), so that puts me at 100 ms?

So if that's the case, playing on the LG OLED with HDR would actually decrease my gaming lag (which I wasn't really having a problem with to begin with).
 
For those bringing up the input lag of the LG OLED, I've been trying to find what the input lag on my current TV is to see if it would better or worse.

According to Google, the results have been:

Regular Viewing Mode:

- Movie Mode - 118 ms
- Standard Mode - 100 ms
- Standard Mode - Dynamic Contrast on Low - 100 ms
- Standard Mode - Auto Motion Plus on Clear - 99 ms
- Standard Mode - Auto Motion Plus on Standard - 100 ms

I've been playing on Dynamic picture mode (contrast at 100), so that puts me at 100 ms?

So if that's the case, playing on the LG OLED with HDR would actually decrease my gaming lag (which I wasn't really having a problem with to begin with).

That's the point I've been trying to make in many of my posts, the LG OLED TV's have less input lag than what many people are currently dealing with, so to me the input lag issue is blown somewhat out of proportion.

Going to an OLED from my old Samsung 55" LCD, the Samsung had almost 120ms of input lag and it was a 2013 model as well. I had the 6000 series though.
 
I normally hate curved screens but the C6 to me is different.
It's not nearly as obvious as it is with some Samsung curved sets. To me it's pretty subtle.

Also I agree I like the look of the B6/C6 over the E6/G6. The sound bar ruins them for me and I wouldn't even be using them.

Just got the C6 because of that other thread..... I heard 3D Content shows more depth on Curve TVs, is that correct?

Doesn't really matter, because I wanted to finally take advantage of 3D Movies...and this OLED TV will finally do the trick. Took awhile for 3D Movies...I was patient...I didn't give up on it.....Finally made it...lol.
 
I usually try to calibrate using Full RGB color space but my DirecTV receiver seems to only output Limited color space. So Black Level Low = Limited and Black Level High = Full.

Good to know about the PC icon. I read somewhere else that we should be using the Game icon to get the lowest lag. Didn't rtings.com show more lag with 4:4:4? I hate having to switch picture modes when changing sources but I haven't gotten game mode dialed in to look as good as the ISF modes yet.

For what it's worth, ISF modes look better out-of-the-box. Game mode takes some tweaking.

I'm not sure if 4:4:4 adds more input lag or not. If it does, it should only be a "problem" when the TV is receiving a 4:4:4 signal. Even then, I'm not sure how much of a difference it would make. (EDIT: rtings.com says the input lag is the same regardless of 4:4:4, so take that as you will)

I'm really picky when it comes to input lag, but thus far the E6 hasn't been a problem (and I played a few matches of Uncharted 4 multiplayer in HDR earlier). The image quality (especially in HDR) is well worth any small amount of perceivable input lag.
 
Now that more people get OLED TVs, I´ll repost the professionally calibrated settings for a C6. Let me preface them with a couple of points:

- these are my professionally calibrated settings - as every setup is individual, they might not be perfect for your setup, but should provide a very good starting point
- they were done on a C6, so they should also work very good on a E6 that shares the same processor, and give at least a starting point for a B6
- for gaming you do not need gaming mode; as has been pointed out time and again, the input lag values "measured" by RTings are wrong
- this calibration was done before the latest FW update, so it might be necessary to lower the value for OLED light in HDR mode depending on your individual setup
- when calibrating, please calibrate the three modes in the order given below:

ISF Light
Customise
OLED Light 60
Contrast 80
Brightness 50
H Sharpness 0
V Sharpness 0
Color 50
Tint 0
Expert Controls
Dynamic Contrast Off
Super Resolution Off
Color Gamut Normal
Edge Enhancer Off
Color Filter Off
Gamma 2.2
White Balance
Color Temperature Warm2
Method 2 Points
Pattern Outer
Point High R-1 G0 B-2
Point Low R0 G0 B0
Color Management System
Red S0 T0 L-4
Green S0 T0 L1
Blue S0 T0 L0
Cyan S0 T0 L1
Magenta S0 T-2 L-2
Yellow S0 T1 L0
Picture Options
Noise Reduction Off
MPEG Noise Reduction Off
Black Level Low
(Real Cinema On)
Motion Eye Care Off
TruMotion Off


ISF Dark
Customise
OLED Light 40
Contrast 80
Brightness 50
H Sharpness 0
V Sharpness 0
Color 50
Tint 0
Expert Controls
Dynamic Contrast Off
Super Resolution Off
Color Gamut Normal
Edge Enhancer Off
Color Filter Off
Gamma 2.4
White Balance
Color Temperature Warm2
Method 2 Points
Pattern Outer
Point High R4 G0 B0
Point Low R0 G0 B0
Color Management System
Red S-2 T0 L-2
Green S0 T0 L2
Blue S0 T0 L2
Cyan S0 T-2 L2
Magenta S0 T-2 L-1
Yellow S0 T3 L1
Picture Options
Noise Reduction Off
MPEG Noise Reduction Off
Black Level Low
(Real Cinema On)
Motion Eye Care Off
TruMotion Off

HDR
(don't forget to go to: General --> HDMI Ultra HD Deep Color; On)
Picture Mode Settings HDR Standard User
Customise
OLED Light 100
Contrast 100
Brightness 50
Sharpness 0
Color 50
Tint 0
Expert Controls
Dynamic Contrast Off
Super Resolution Off
Color Gamut Wide
Edge Enhancer Off
Color Filter Off
Gamma 2.2
White Balance don't change
Color Management System don't change
Picture Options
Noise Reduction Off
MPEG Noise Reduction Off
Black Level Low
(Real Cinema On)
Motion Eye Care Off
TruMotion Off
 
Now that more people get OLED TVs, I´ll repost the professionally calibrated settings for a C6. Let me preface them with a couple of points:

- these are my professionally calibrated settings - as every setup is individual, they might not be perfect for your setup, but should provide a very good starting point
- they were done on a C6, so they should also work very good on a E6 that shares the same processor, and give at least a starting point for a B6
- for gaming you do not need gaming mode; as has been pointed out time and again, the input lag values "measured" by RTings are wrong
- this calibration was done before the latest FW update, so it might be necessary to lower the value for OLED light in HDR mode depending on your individual setup
- when calibrating, please calibrate the three modes in the order given below:

ISF Light
Customise
OLED Light 60
Contrast 80
Brightness 50
H Sharpness 0
V Sharpness 0
Color 50
Tint 0
Expert Controls
Dynamic Contrast Off
Super Resolution Off
Color Gamut Normal
Edge Enhancer Off
Color Filter Off
Gamma 2.2
White Balance
Color Temperature Warm2
Method 2 Points
Pattern Outer
Point High R-1 G0 B-2
Point Low R0 G0 B0
Color Management System
Red S0 T0 L-4
Green S0 T0 L1
Blue S0 T0 L0
Cyan S0 T0 L1
Magenta S0 T-2 L-2
Yellow S0 T1 L0
Picture Options
Noise Reduction Off
MPEG Noise Reduction Off
Black Level Low
(Real Cinema On)
Motion Eye Care Off
TruMotion Off


ISF Dark
Customise
OLED Light 40
Contrast 80
Brightness 50
H Sharpness 0
V Sharpness 0
Color 50
Tint 0
Expert Controls
Dynamic Contrast Off
Super Resolution Off
Color Gamut Normal
Edge Enhancer Off
Color Filter Off
Gamma 2.4
White Balance
Color Temperature Warm2
Method 2 Points
Pattern Outer
Point High R4 G0 B0
Point Low R0 G0 B0
Color Management System
Red S-2 T0 L-2
Green S0 T0 L2
Blue S0 T0 L2
Cyan S0 T-2 L2
Magenta S0 T-2 L-1
Yellow S0 T3 L1
Picture Options
Noise Reduction Off
MPEG Noise Reduction Off
Black Level Low
(Real Cinema On)
Motion Eye Care Off
TruMotion Off

HDR
(don't forget to go to: General --> HDMI Ultra HD Deep Color; On)
Picture Mode Settings HDR Standard User
Customise
OLED Light 100
Contrast 100
Brightness 50
Sharpness 0
Color 50
Tint 0
Expert Controls
Dynamic Contrast Off
Super Resolution Off
Color Gamut Wide
Edge Enhancer Off
Color Filter Off
Gamma 2.2
White Balance don't change
Color Management System don't change
Picture Options
Noise Reduction Off
MPEG Noise Reduction Off
Black Level Low
(Real Cinema On)
Motion Eye Care Off
TruMotion Off

Thanks for these. HDR Standard looks absolutely horrible to me no matter what tinkering I do. It's like everything has a yellow filter on it.
 
Thanks for these. HDR Standard looks absolutely horrible to me no matter what tinkering I do. It's like everything has a yellow filter on it.

This is the case, if you are used to watching content in the wrong color temp.
Use the settings I posted for a couple of days, and you´ll get used to them very quickly, as they are much better for your eyes.
On the contrary - after a week with the correct color temp you'll be unable to go back.
 
Wait, what? Please explain how you came to that conclusion.

The current Bodnar devices are not able to test OLED. They are still waiting for the LG whitepaper to build a suitable device.
So every "test" taken regarding input lag on OLEDs is fundamentally wrong.
 
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