Not getting that on my E6, sorry.
The panel will dim automatically after a while if a static image is on for a while.
Plasma, LCD, OLED, LED, best tv for next gen
- Thread starter spannicus
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Not getting that on my E6, sorry.
The panel will dim automatically after a while if a static image is on for a while.
It's not the static image thing, because I've seen that.
If no one else has it, that would actually be a relief as it tells me that isn't the norm. I don't know if I would be satisfied keeping this TV if I was denied the brightness setting shown off that menu screen.
Any idea how good LG's customer service is? As in, calling someone, describing the problem, and having them come over with a fix and/or replacement? Hoping this all gets sorted before the week is done.
If no one else has it, that would actually be a relief as it tells me that isn't the norm. I don't know if I would be satisfied keeping this TV if I was denied the brightness setting shown off that menu screen.
Any idea how good LG's customer service is? As in, calling someone, describing the problem, and having them come over with a fix and/or replacement? Hoping this all gets sorted before the week is done.
Nostremitus
Member
Oh, good to know. I had been misinformed.
Mr. Wonderful
Member
I'll let you look up your own sources, but I can confirm his statements as true.
Like all display technologies, OLED isn't without its issues. The good news is that every year, the issues get addressed more and more, just like LCD. It's all about buying the TV whose flaws bother you the least.
I had a feeling I was going to get obsessively anal with the new TV. When I got my first LCD (a Samsung), I exchanged it three times becuase I didn't know what clouding was, and couldn't get used to the idea that there would be white blotches every time the panel went dark. In fairness the third set was the charm as it had less clouding that was on the edge, but that was still a foolish time in my life.
So I can't help but wonder if I'm doing the same with this OLED. I know there are people who swear by keeping the brigthness/backlight at a medium setting, but I just can't get used to that: I'm the type who has his iPhone and iPad at max brightness. More than anything I need to know if the extra brightness with the settings menu up is a defect or normal, and according to a couple of people here with the same set, they don't have that issue.
So I'm going to call LG the next chance I get, and hopefully they can send someone over to inspect it and let me know if it's normal, if it requires tinkering, or if it requires a replacement.
Unfortunately since Adorama's return policy says it won't accept returns of TVs past 45 inches, I'm kind of stuck with this set. But that's me being paranoid, as I don't want to go and get rid of what many consider the single best 4K TV out there because of a weird personal hangup.
So I can't help but wonder if I'm doing the same with this OLED. I know there are people who swear by keeping the brigthness/backlight at a medium setting, but I just can't get used to that: I'm the type who has his iPhone and iPad at max brightness. More than anything I need to know if the extra brightness with the settings menu up is a defect or normal, and according to a couple of people here with the same set, they don't have that issue.
So I'm going to call LG the next chance I get, and hopefully they can send someone over to inspect it and let me know if it's normal, if it requires tinkering, or if it requires a replacement.
Unfortunately since Adorama's return policy says it won't accept returns of TVs past 45 inches, I'm kind of stuck with this set. But that's me being paranoid, as I don't want to go and get rid of what many consider the single best 4K TV out there because of a weird personal hangup.
Can you go to a store and see if they do the same thing?
I don't think store displays would be a good way to test that. I could try if I was really desperate, but it would have to wait until the weekend and I'm hoping a technician would arrive before or around then.
Mine (E6) does it occasionally as well, but I'm not sure what causes it. It's only when bring up the full settings menu, not when pulling up the quick settings menu. And it doesn't happen every time I do it.
If you want a super bright picture you're better off buying an FALD LCD. But, I've been blinded plenty of times by my E6.
captscience
Member
Has anyone had trouble streaming 4k from Amazon?
I've tried both on my LG 55E6 and through a PS4 Pro and the readout seems to never go above 1080p. I should have plenty of bandwidth, 100 mbps.
I've tried both on my LG 55E6 and through a PS4 Pro and the readout seems to never go above 1080p. I should have plenty of bandwidth, 100 mbps.
I think I read something about Amazon listing two versions of a show, one in HD and one in UHD. Are you viewing the UHD one? Other than that I don't know, sorry
Yeah, it specifically happens with all settings and not any other menu (like the Home menu).
Though mine seems to be all the time versus "occasionally".
I'm hoping it's a settings thing I can adjust, because otherwise it's a flawless set.
I am also wondering the same thing.
I watch a lot of hockey and football and don't have any motion issues on an LG E6.
I watch a lot of football (soccer) on the E6 and no issues here either. OLEDs supposedly have lower motion resolution than plasma TVs (?) and yet I can't tell the difference.
I don't know if that's the same as tablets and laptops and android phones (Samsung Phones). Macbook pro can get too bright for me.
I can't constantly do that... I have to have it 70-75%....but for my phone and tablet, when I'm watching videos or pics, I'll up the brightness to 100%...... then back down to 70-75% for regular browsing.
Maybe I've grown to be sensitive with brightness without knowing it...but 100% brightness at all times (phone/tablets/laptop), seems like bad for the eyes.
Future PhaZe
Member
is the brightness level similar to what you see at 1:21 in this video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P1PpHwfoT5Y
Maybe I've grown to be sensitive with brightness without knowing it...but 100% brightness at all times (phone/tablets/laptop), seems like bad for the eyes.
Definitely not bad for the eyes. No benefit either.
At its default, pretty much. But it shoots up when the all settings menu appears.
So I managed to call LG, who forwarded me to the VIP deparment. The gentleman I spoke to tried out the E6 to see if the effect occured on his TV. Curiously, he said that the picture on the right side of the screen actually dimmed when the settings menu came up, rather than get brighter. He also said he hadn't heard of this issue and doesn't think it's an intentional thing LG designed.
So we scheduled a tech to come over tomorrow. According to the LG rep, they tend not to replace entire TVs, but instead carry whatever necessary parts they need to replace on the set. He'll have all the proper tools and such needed, so I'll at least know for sure if this is an actual issue or not.
What's your Contrast set at? If you have it set too high (85+) then you'll be seeing the effects of ABL. The settings menu is dark so it'll push up the overall brightness of the remaining image on the screen. To combat this you should raise your OLED light and lower your contrast.
I'll try that when I get home. OLED light and contrast are max, as I believe the vivid and ISF bright room presets do automatically.
Does that also include the dynamic contrast settings?
My Kuro started needing infrequent, then frequent factory resets to keep it running. Otherwise it'd lose certain inputs, stop responding to the remote, lose picture, etc.. It varied each time. It didn't work for a solid 3-4 weeks straight no matter what I did, just before I ordered a replacement. Of course it's been working perfectly since then.
I was on the fence about trying to source a used main board for swap, but wasn't sure I'd gain anything for certain. The part is like $900+ if you buy it from Pioneer, and I couldn't get anyone to come examine the display. Service centers suck these days.
captscience
Member
I think I read something about Amazon listing two versions of a show, one in HD and one in UHD. Are you viewing the UHD one? Other than that I don't know, sorry
I'm an idiot. That's exactly it. Thanks!
I had to scroll down to a different section to get the UHD versions. Their search doesn't surface the UHD versions though. Silly.
Nice. Yeah, their app is awful. Netflix does it way better.
I know I should think this far ahead, but I tend to prefer covering all my bases.
If by any chance the technician comes, inspects my television and claims that the way it handles brightness is normal, I don't know if I would get used to it, much less accept it. I may be tempted to go back to LED and invest in the Samsung KS8000 instead.
Thing is, the return policy of Adorama states that TVs above 40 inches cannot be returned, so this 55 inch set wouldn't qualify. What would be the best option in that case? Is it possible I would get an exception in returning it?
Again, hoping it doesn't come to that, but I don't know if I could live with an inconsistent brightness setting if that's the nature of OLEDs. I've read about ABL and ABSL, but that seems more catered toward making a picture darker, not brighter.
If by any chance the technician comes, inspects my television and claims that the way it handles brightness is normal, I don't know if I would get used to it, much less accept it. I may be tempted to go back to LED and invest in the Samsung KS8000 instead.
Thing is, the return policy of Adorama states that TVs above 40 inches cannot be returned, so this 55 inch set wouldn't qualify. What would be the best option in that case? Is it possible I would get an exception in returning it?
Again, hoping it doesn't come to that, but I don't know if I could live with an inconsistent brightness setting if that's the nature of OLEDs. I've read about ABL and ABSL, but that seems more catered toward making a picture darker, not brighter.
jstevenson
Sailor Stevenson
dude. calibrate your SDR picture to the proper brightness with a calibration disc. Calibrate the actual picture on a screen on a bright room in ISF Bright, in a dark room in ISF Dark.
If your picture is calibrated it's irrelevant what brightness the menus are at. You'll barely be in them most of the time.
Are you talking about a calibration disc like the World of Wonder disc by Disney?
Isn't that limiting in that you would need special tools to access the hidden menus and such in order to calibrate the values? That is one of the things I'm hoping to get out of tomorrow's visit.
Are there free calibration videos or such I could use?
I'm just trying to figure out why you care about menu brightness. You're not watching menus. Is your brightness fine with regular content? Then what's the problem?
jstevenson
Sailor Stevenson
yes, World of Wonder or DVE or whatever.
Is that as good as a full ISF calibration? No. Is it as good as a calibration with a light meter? No. Can you do as much without the service menu? No. But there are some solid controls on the thing.
There are calibration patterns out there as well you can find on AVS that you can put on a USB stick, though there will be no explanation of how to use those patterns.
It's not the menu, it's the picture on the right when the menu is up: it's a brighter and more vibrant image, and then it dims back out when the menu is gone.
I need to at least know if that's common. Other people with the same TV (including the LG rep) have tried it and said that doesn't happen to them, so I need to have the tech come inspect it either way to be certain.
Supposedly I can access the service menu with this online guide.
I probably won't mess with it since the tech is coming tomorrow anyway, but in the event of a self calibration, is there a guide that also includes the values you can change in the service menu?
Edit: While looking at this calibration video, the thing I'm talking about with the menu happens to him at 1:31:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l4cpwUj-UP8
jstevenson
Sailor Stevenson
nothing that happens in that video looks unusual to me.
and if you don't know what you're doing, don't go into the service menu. You don't need to in order to do a base calibration. If you're going to make service menu changes, you need to do an indepth cal w/ a light meter
I'd say my room is medium brightness at best. It could just be preference due to years of having LCDs and LEDs set that way.
On that note, I think I'll reschedule the tech visit to Saturday (so I don't have to waste a half day at work). I used the following video's calibration suggestions:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l4cpwUj-UP8
And I believe I'm seeing less inconsistency with the picture's brightness. I may have jumped the gun on this one due to my inexperience with OLEDs, so I'll take some extra time to play around with it instead of waving my hands in fear that something is wrong.
In any event, I have some non-doomsday questions as I want to continue to achieve the "ideal" picture.
1. In that video, the calibrator sets True Motion to "user" (which has de-judder at 10 at default). Is there a benefit to this? I thought most people preferred True Motion turned off completely.
2. Do I follow these same color/brightness settings under the HDR picture setting? Or is that a different calibration video I should seek out?
3. If I want to increase the vibrancy of a picture without necessarily increasing its contrast/brightness (in fear it may cause another inconsistency), what would be the best way to go about it? Basically, I like my anime and animation-related stuff to be colorful and vibrant. What's the best way to achieve that?
4. It seems I'm going to need a new receiver that will let me connect to the 4K TV so it can output audio from other connected devices (PS4 Pro, etc). Will this one do the trick? If I connect the PS4 Pro to the receiver, will I get the full benefit of having it directly connected to the TV? Also, am I going to need a compliant HDMI cable for the receiver itself? Also, do receivers tend to go on sale on Black Friday?
5. What's the difference between ISF Bright Room and Dark Room? Which should I be using as far as a room that has the same kind of light throughout the day/night?
6. What should I set HDR effect to? Does that only affect content in HDR or non-HDR stuff too?
On that note, I think I'll reschedule the tech visit to Saturday (so I don't have to waste a half day at work). I used the following video's calibration suggestions:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l4cpwUj-UP8
And I believe I'm seeing less inconsistency with the picture's brightness. I may have jumped the gun on this one due to my inexperience with OLEDs, so I'll take some extra time to play around with it instead of waving my hands in fear that something is wrong.
In any event, I have some non-doomsday questions as I want to continue to achieve the "ideal" picture.
1. In that video, the calibrator sets True Motion to "user" (which has de-judder at 10 at default). Is there a benefit to this? I thought most people preferred True Motion turned off completely.
2. Do I follow these same color/brightness settings under the HDR picture setting? Or is that a different calibration video I should seek out?
3. If I want to increase the vibrancy of a picture without necessarily increasing its contrast/brightness (in fear it may cause another inconsistency), what would be the best way to go about it? Basically, I like my anime and animation-related stuff to be colorful and vibrant. What's the best way to achieve that?
4. It seems I'm going to need a new receiver that will let me connect to the 4K TV so it can output audio from other connected devices (PS4 Pro, etc). Will this one do the trick? If I connect the PS4 Pro to the receiver, will I get the full benefit of having it directly connected to the TV? Also, am I going to need a compliant HDMI cable for the receiver itself? Also, do receivers tend to go on sale on Black Friday?
5. What's the difference between ISF Bright Room and Dark Room? Which should I be using as far as a room that has the same kind of light throughout the day/night?
6. What should I set HDR effect to? Does that only affect content in HDR or non-HDR stuff too?
Aztechnology
Member
Yea, playing on my KS8000. I tried to play BF1 in PC mode which is 37ms. It was nearly unbearable for me personally with a mouse/keyboard. With a controller it was slightly more tolerable. But switching to game mode from PC was a drastic improvement. Like night and day. I cannot imagine playing at 60ms, I did it for years back when I was 18 and it was terrible. Never again.
I'm looking for a new TV for around £400. It's to replace a 32" 108p tv which is our main TV in lounge.
We sit 3 metres (10 feet) away.
Currently looking at a 'budget' 4K :
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01DUPUE4I/
Hisense M3300 50"
Anyone got any experience with this model? Getting mainly for TV obviously but also will be plugged to my Xbox One.
We sit 3 metres (10 feet) away.
Currently looking at a 'budget' 4K :
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01DUPUE4I/
Hisense M3300 50"
Anyone got any experience with this model? Getting mainly for TV obviously but also will be plugged to my Xbox One.
armenianmovieman
Neo Member
I asked on the PS4K thread about the XBR65X750D, which is an HDR set at $1200, and apparently it won't be good for HDR?
Does anybody have experience with this set?
Thank you!
Does anybody have experience with this set?
Thank you!
Aztechnology
Member
I don't personally. But I generally find HDtvtest.co.uk and Rtings.com to be solid sources.
http://ca.rtings.com/tv/reviews/sony/x750d
There are probably better sets to be had for the price though.
Future PhaZe
Member
Aztechnology
Member
Just change the HDMI source to game console. If you haven't done it before it's home button, press up and go to the source you want to change. Press up again and edit, choose game console. You'll have to tweak some settings like setting the HDMI black level to native and playing around with other settings. But it's significantly better than PC mode for games.
Future PhaZe
Member
You sir, are a saint and a scholar.
nogoodnamesleft
Banned
Guys, what's the price range Sony equivalent to the Samsung ks8000? I'm just trying to look at alternatives before I replace my beloved kuro
MastAndo
Member
The X850D, if I'm not mistaken - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01A5LU5E4/?tag=neogaf0e-20Guys, what's the price range Sony equivalent to the Samsung ks8000? I'm just trying to look at alternatives before I replace my beloved kuro
jstevenson
Sailor Stevenson
1. You actually want TruMotion on for the LG OLEDs as it doubles the motion resolution of the set. De-Judder should be at 1 or 2, deblur between 5-10. YMMV.
2. HDR is a completely different calibration routine. Further, following calibration videos does not "calibrate" your TV. You're using someone else's settings. Calibrating a TV means ensuring it's displaying content ACCURATELY. If you care about that, use a disc or a light meter or pay someone. If you don't care about that, then just play with the settings until it looks the way you want it.
3. This relates to 2. I have no clue, amp up the color setting maybe? Or switch picture mode to dynamic or something that looks good for your anime? My preference is always 100% of the time to be using an accurate picture.
4. No idea on the specific receiver or how well it works. You also can just run an optical cable from the OLED to your current receiver though you may miss out on a few codecs that way, but it's a temp fix. I'm doing that myself until I invest in a better 4k HDR receiver.
5. ISF Bright is brighter to deal with light in the room. ISF Dark is for darkened rooms. If there's lamps and sunlight and such, you wanna use bright. Also, it's possible to make those both be the exact same, it's just a label, and it's just where the settings start (this is true of all of the modes on the TV, though ISF modes have some extra fine tuning options, Game mode disables some processing, etc). Calibration will vary slightly based on the light in the room.
6. You don't want HDR Effect on. That's a fake processing that tries to make SDR content look like HDR. It's bullshit. You want your SDR modes to properly display SDR, and your HDR modes to display HDR.
1. But what's the benefit to doubling the motion resolution? I thought it was the same as enabling motion plus on an LED (giving you the "fake" 60 fps, ie the soap opera effect).
And does TruMotion factor into input lag? I tried it very briefly while playing Uncharted 4 with HDR on, and I think there was an extra delay in my inputs. I could be wrong, I only tried it for a second, but just making sure (and for the record, the inputs are fine for me; I notice no difference when using HDR or not, it's as precise as it felt on my last TV).
2. I know I'm not truly calibrating it, I'm just going off from the video which offered the "recommended" settings. I did like a lot of what the end result achieved, but I want to build my own preferences from there. Still wondering what the best calibrating disc or video is. I know about World of Wonder, but that only covers 1080p content, right (or does it not matter)?
5. The thing about ISF is that it gives acess to expert settings. So if I want to use those I'll have to pick one or the other.
6. I'll turn off the HDR effect then.
jstevenson
Sailor Stevenson
1. The LG resolves 300 lines of motion resolution. It doubles to 600 with just the mildest motion processing. The increased resolution of motion is better than the minor artifacts that introduces. It's the preferred calibration of the TV. The artifacts/soap opera effect aren't noticable at de-judder 1. But the picture quality increase is worth it.
HDR also adds lag. It's unknown if LG will get a HDR Game Mode into the 2016 sets. Fingers are crossed. It's not horrific but probably not ideal for MP gaming.
If input lag is the concern, calibrate your Game Mode for gaming.
2. There's not really a 4K calibration disc yet, but in theory it shouldn't matter in terms of calibrating SDR content. Maybe the sharpness patters and such. Brightness/color patterns won't be a big effect.
5. My point is they are basically the same except their starting point. So it doesn't matter which one you use if the light in the room is always the same. I have ISF Bright dialed in for daytime/lights on, and ISF Dark for nighttime in dim light or darkness
Can anyone comment on input lag for Sony X930D after the latest update? I have seen the numbers on rtings but i would like a real world experience if possible. I need a tv and i dont want to get the KS7000(KS8000in the US) because i hate samsung's motion. I had a JS9000 and sold it for that reason. Any hdr gaming impressions? Thanks a lot.