Betta Lines
Member
I was impatient and bought a devkit, and yep... it's the future alright. 
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Assetto Corsa: Early Access |OT|
- Thread starter Addnan
- Start date
kutthoat5150
Member
I was impatient and bought a devkit, and yep... it's the future alright.
so close to getting one as well instead of a 3 way monitor setup, hopefully they release a dev kit 2.0 with the higher res screen soon
Betta Lines
Member
You made the right choice - it wasn't at all acceptable in terms of image quality. I only bought one to give myself a proper demo, I have since sold it on. If you gave me a choice of racing on triple screens or with the Rift devkit 1, I'd choose the screens every time.
I can happily wait for the consumer version now.
Big Takeover
Member
Count me in as someone who will be going Rift when it goes retail. Like Nuts said, tailor made.
Sothis Krieg
Member
Hey guys, quick question do you drive mostly with default setup or do you fine tune your car when you are hotlaping ?
Betta Lines
Member
I don't have a lot of patience for setup changes. Either you're an alien, nailing consistent laps near the top of the board, in which case minor tweaks to a setup can gain you a tenth here and there, or you're not comfortable with the default and feel unable to push the car.
I'm neither of those things, the default feels fine on every car I've tried in AC, so I find lap time by just driving the default better.
Unless you're able to test long runs at a very consistent, high level, it's very difficult to say with absolute confidence that one setup is fundamentally faster than another. So unless you really hate the default, and you want to significantly change the handling characteristics of the car at any speed, I'd not bother. Much better to just adapt your driving to suit the car.
I'm neither of those things, the default feels fine on every car I've tried in AC, so I find lap time by just driving the default better.
Unless you're able to test long runs at a very consistent, high level, it's very difficult to say with absolute confidence that one setup is fundamentally faster than another. So unless you really hate the default, and you want to significantly change the handling characteristics of the car at any speed, I'd not bother. Much better to just adapt your driving to suit the car.
Shouldn't matter if you can see '3D' stuff or not. Even people with just one eye will be able to use VR(with the same limitations that comes with only being able to see out of one eye, of course!).
Normally, I definitely do tune. Laptime isn't usually my goal, its just to make the car *feel* better to drive. If I'm having problems with chronic under or oversteer, for instance, I'll usually see what I can do to neutralize things. Camber/caster changes can often help get better grip out of the tires. If the car has issues getting the power down, I'll mess with the differential or the rear suspension or tire pressures. With race cars, I'll mess with downforce levels to find a good balance between handling and top speed. I'll adjust gear ratios if I feel the first few gears are too long and hurting acceleration or if the top gear is too high/short(even this can often be track dependent). Basically, I want a car that I can drive fast as consistently and comfortably as possible. I think the benefits of tuning can go beyond that, though. Experienced racers and tuners can definitely gain a good bit of laptime, but it involves fairly comprehensive working knowledge of all everything and the changes done for the really fast setups are often intensive, wholesale changes across the whole board of settings available. Its just beyond my means to know how to do all that. Its very easy to mess things up if you don't know what you're doing.
As Pazuzu said, you really do need to be able to drive consistent laps to judge what you're doing is making a difference, though. I wouldn't say you need to be able to drive at a really high level, but you should be able to drive well enough to be able to drive at or near the limit of the car. Doesn't mean you have to be the fastest guy, but at least know where the limits are and have a good feeling for driving near them as you lap.
Which is pretty much exactly why I haven't really messed with tuning in Assetto Corsa yet. With the controller, I'm just not comfortable driving at the limits whatsoever. I have to drive far too cautious to be able to judge whether or not a setting change I make makes a difference apart from things like gear ratios and obvious stuff like that.
This will hopefully change now that my G27 arrived in the mail today.
I'll post impressions later so I'm not derailing the discussion.
Sothis Krieg
Member
Ok thanks for the replies guys.
I still have a hard time to pull out a time below 1:50 with the exo 125 on nurb, it seems that i block wheel too often when i brake and i'm using a G27.
I still have a hard time to pull out a time below 1:50 with the exo 125 on nurb, it seems that i block wheel too often when i brake and i'm using a G27.
Betta Lines
Member
If you're still making apexes then I wouldn't worry too much about small lock ups - you are probably losing more time not leaning on the aero in the high-speed sections. For instance, you should be flat through the Schumacher S, and you can be on the power very early through turns 5 and 11. I don't think they can be done flat, but it's close!
Are you using 900 degrees rotation still? Cuz if so, your steering on the wheel will not correlate 1:1 with the wheel on-screen. Doesn't seem like a huge deal, but it made a drastic difference for me once I took this into account. I actually started to pay attention to the wheel on-screen to discern my 'actual' steering angle and I was instantly massively faster and able to push much harder.
I'm sure that's a very 'bandaid' way to deal with it. It might be best to set your wheel to 270 degrees when driving that car. Or maybe get rid of the wheel on-screen? Cant vouch that any of these will work and make you faster(I'll be trying both here soon), but they seem more logical solutions, at least.
I'm pretty sure that's the point of the setting in the options. If you have your wheel set to 900 in its profiler and then set AC to 900 degrees, it will essentially reduce or expand the max limit you can turn the wheel and have an effect. I have my T500RS set to 900 in the profiler and ingame and with that setup it can actually turn the 900 degrees before hitting the lock point, but the game is only using like 3xx degrees or whatever and anything I turn past that is useless. That's the beauty of open wheel cars in that you can actually sit still and see that it's not actually turning any further even if you turn the wheel more.
edit: Yep, just confirmed that the only range my wheel is effective with the T125 is 360 degrees.
I have the same settings and while it it does limit your steering lock for that car, its not matching the wheel on the screen. I don't think its bringing it down all the way to 270 degrees. Or the sensitivity doesn't match up with it. Or *something*. Its not right, somehow. It was definitely messing me up quite a bit before I realized what was going on.
These are my 125 times at Nurb from yesterday. Going to work on them more today - hope to cut (at least?) 1 second from both.I haven't spent a ton of time on them yet.
I've been using the Pro settings just for the sake of the leader boards but I think it might be easier to simply turn off fuel and tire wear so I can continue lapping uninterrupted. Though I think I'd still have to do cool-down laps especially with the S1, as the tires overheat very fast.
edit: I have my G27 at 900, 101%, 0, 0 in general settings (I don't use profiler) And in game I used the setup wizard to get as close to 900 as possible (I think 901 at the moment): Gain: 80-90, everything else off except 20-30% curb and slip effect on occasion. The wheel will always match the onscreen unless I change the rotation manually, either via the settings or the hardware shortcut buttons. Those can be useful for extremely slow turning cars like some of the Lotuses. I will hit the shortcut to set the wheel to 670 and get a faster turning rate in game.
I've been using the Pro settings just for the sake of the leader boards but I think it might be easier to simply turn off fuel and tire wear so I can continue lapping uninterrupted. Though I think I'd still have to do cool-down laps especially with the S1, as the tires overheat very fast.
edit: I have my G27 at 900, 101%, 0, 0 in general settings (I don't use profiler) And in game I used the setup wizard to get as close to 900 as possible (I think 901 at the moment): Gain: 80-90, everything else off except 20-30% curb and slip effect on occasion. The wheel will always match the onscreen unless I change the rotation manually, either via the settings or the hardware shortcut buttons. Those can be useful for extremely slow turning cars like some of the Lotuses. I will hit the shortcut to set the wheel to 670 and get a faster turning rate in game.
Betta Lines
Member
I don't think you've got that right, unless the G27 does something really weird. AC seems to work just like iRacing, where it asks you to turn 90 degrees in the calibration so that everything matches 1:1, meaning you only have to set it once and it should be correct across all cars (if their real lock is 900 or less). Every car I've tried (including the T125) turns 1:1 with 900 degrees in the driver, the only exception I've noticed is the F40, which has a lock greater than 900, so the steering is slightly accelerated.
The only way I can make everything not 1:1 is by changing the rotation in the wheel driver. So if AC is reading the rotation as 900, and I put my wheel to 670, the steering response is quicker in all cars (one might argue this is cheating).
I don't know what you're doing different than me, setting-wise. It most certainly doesn't match what's on screen for me.
I set both profiler and game to 270 and it does correlate 1:1, but definitely not at 900.
Also, set at 270, the force feedback is way too strong for the sensitivity that narrow of a wheel lock, so I had to turn it off. I can probably try just lowering the strength, but its still a bummer that I cant just have a quick way to change setups.
I set both profiler and game to 270 and it does correlate 1:1, but definitely not at 900.
Also, set at 270, the force feedback is way too strong for the sensitivity that narrow of a wheel lock, so I had to turn it off. I can probably try just lowering the strength, but its still a bummer that I cant just have a quick way to change setups.
Big Takeover
Member
Make sure you've got "allow game to adjust settings" ticked in the profiler.
Yea, it was on.
I just returned everything to 900 degrees and its correlating 1:1 now. Weird. Was definitely something off before.
But cool, that's problem solved! For me, at least(sorry Krieg).
Betta Lines
Member
Glad you're sorted. If you run the calibration wizard I find that it'll never be exactly 900 once you do the 90 degree turn accurately. Mine goes to about 887.
I believe Sothis Krieg's problem is locking his brakes too much.
I believe Sothis Krieg's problem is locking his brakes too much.
Sothis Krieg
Member
I have no problem with the steering indeed, and i have improved on not locking the brake but my time is still utter shit, i think the first corner and the followings is the section where i lose too much time.
G27 pedal users: What do you use for Break Gamma? I was using 1.7-2 depending on the car. But with the Lotus 125 I tried out 1.0 and it seemed surprisingly usable - I could easily apply full break or just the tiniest bit with a soft touch. Still much less precise but it feels like it's easier to handle in the 125. I need to play around with it a bit more, curious what others are using.
I really hope they implement a feature in the future to allow us to race other people's ghosts. Its invaluable for learning where exactly you're missing time. Racing your own ghost will certainly lead to improvement, but sometimes the gains will come quicker with some outside motivation.
Anyways, I've got about 5 hours with the G27 now. Lots of things to say about it. Well, the wheel itself feels very good. Sturdy, the force feedback is better than anything I've used(though that's not saying a whole lot), and I *love* the steel paddle shifters.
The shifter is the weak link in the chain. Its nice to have, its fun, but its not great. It doesn't have a very notchy feel as you swap through gears, making it feel a bit vague at times. This is causing me to miss gears quite a bit, especially from 5th to 2nd instead of 5th to 4th. Which creates somewhat 'terminal' problems, obviously. lol
Pedals are actually better than I was expecting. Brake pedal has *some* firmness to it, as does the clutch. The throttle pedal is quite light, but that's not really a huge issue. After using it for a while, I'm starting to think that while firmer, more progressive pedals would be an improvement, what's really missing is the feedback. That feeling through the pedal that you're hitting the limits of grip. You might get it through the wheel, but my brain hasn't really learned to translate that into a signal for my feet to change what they're doing quick enough. Feels like there's still a disconnect there. Is there such thing as a FFB pedal set? If not, there should be!
The wiring is a bit of a mess, mainly because it all has to be routed one way. Would be much better if I could have the damn things coming out the side so I could just unplug or plug in everything much more conveniently. Right now, I've kinda left most everything hooked up, with just the wheel coming off and on the desk(all wires still attached). Need to figure something out quick. A stand sure would be nice....
In terms of driving, its been a mixed bag so far. I'm struggling quite badly with anything requiring the H-gate and clutch. Its my first time using these on a racing wheel and I thought my experience driving manual in real life would make the transition easier, but nope! lol I have the shifter to the left of me, UK-style, so that's new for me since I've only ever driven stick with a left-hand drive vehicle. Main problem is coming from braking and downshifting. Perhaps its because I've never really 'track driven' a vehicle, but I'm struggling with maximizing my braking while downshifting and keeping the car stable. I think I really need to learn how to heel/toe now, cuz on the controller, I'm very used to being able to brake hard and trail brake somewhat aggressively, but I cant come anywhere close to doing that.
I was doing laps around Silverstone with the E30 Group A. I can manage somewhat smooth laps, but I'm not on the limits for the most part. Best I've managed so far is a 2:26 something, while on the controller my best was a 2:18. That's a huge gap to make up and I'm not entirely sure where its all coming from. On the controller, I could basically power shift(still on the gas and everything) and it was definitely quicker, but that accounts for maybe 1/2-3/4 of a second? I'm sure there's still seconds to be gained by improving my shifting and braking as well, but man, EIGHT seconds? I don't know where the hell its all coming from. My ghost is usually long gone after just a few corners that its hard to figure out. We'll see. That's a daunting road ahead, though!
Cars that don't use the clutch and shifter, I'm progressing quite well. I've spent less time doing this because I'm more worried about the H-gate cars, but I think I'm fairly close to what I could do on the controller already. Especially with cars that I struggled with before, like the Ferrari 458. Being able to be smooth really makes a huge difference. I almost beat by time at Magione but I spun on the 2nd-to-last corner, trying too aggressively to get to the far right for the final left hander. With the 125 on Nurburgring, I got down to a 1:48 quite quickly after I'd got the steering issues sorted. Its largely still my braking I need to improve, as well getting down the power. Basically just relearning the limits of the cars with a new control scheme. Oh, and using the steel paddle shifters is monumentally awesome for some reason. Just feels so solid and connected. Paddles I've used before were all fairly cheap plastic things with very muddy 'clicking' action.
Overall, I absolutely love it. I've used wheels before, but never that seriously(my PC was always crap and couldn't run rFactor/GTR more than 20-30fps and the Xbox wheels I had sucked) and this feels like a whole new world with my PC and a game like this. Its fantastic feeling like I'm actually driving the cars and not just pushing them along. Cars that were difficult to drive before can still be a handful, but they feel very manageable now. I feel much more in control of what's going on. Its gonna take me a bit to really get comfortable, but that's ok. Its part of the reason I finally took the plunge because the longer I waited, the more painful the transition would be since multiplayer will be coming soon and I'm anxious to get it on it.
Business
Member
That's right about the shifter. Feels very much like a toy in contrast to the build quality of both wheel and pedals, which feels really solid. I ended up getting the DSD sequential shifter which, despite I would prefer a gated one, works very well for me.
About the pedals I couldn't agree more. Pedals is the area where simracing hardware has more room to improve. The gas pedal is fine but the brakes and clutch are miles away from what they should be. I own a (spring modded) G27 set and a CSP set with load cell and I think both do a poor job, because neither works like a brake or clutch pedal does. I initially thought the load cell would be the answer for the brake pedal but to me it's still as poor as a spring, if not worst, at least it's easier for me to judge how far I'm pressing the pedal rather than how hard I'm pushing it. With the spring I have a reference, with the load cell I find myself looking at the onscreen HUD to see how much I'm braking. Same thing with the clutch. A real clutch let's you know when the gear is engaged, you can feel it, for all I care in simracing it might as well be digital, it wouldn't make much of a difference.
I too wonder if it's really so hard to put out there a pedal set with FFB.
That's so far away still!
Anyways, I don't know what to do. I've spent a few hours now trying to improve my downshifting and braking and cant do shit. I haven't improved the slightest bit. I can do it slowly and smoothly and lose like 3/4's of a second in one corner alone or I spin out as soon as I let off the clutch trying to push harder. I don't know understand how to maximize my braking at all.
I was just redoing the Xbow at Magione hotlap we did before. I was at a 1:20.3 with a controller. I cant even get below 1:27 now. My ghost, again, is gone after the first couple corners.
This is a fucking travesty and I don't know how to improve.
Anyways, I don't know what to do. I've spent a few hours now trying to improve my downshifting and braking and cant do shit. I haven't improved the slightest bit. I can do it slowly and smoothly and lose like 3/4's of a second in one corner alone or I spin out as soon as I let off the clutch trying to push harder. I don't know understand how to maximize my braking at all.
I was just redoing the Xbow at Magione hotlap we did before. I was at a 1:20.3 with a controller. I cant even get below 1:27 now. My ghost, again, is gone after the first couple corners.
This is a fucking travesty and I don't know how to improve.
Those are turned off.
I could probably improve to a 1:25 or so at the moment with some slow and steady downshifting/braking, maybe some time by general driving improvement(which will come with time), but generally, I cant really see how I'm going to get anywhere close, let alone improve my times until I can learn to downshift while braking hard.
I just.....don't really know how to go about doing that. I don't mind putting in the time, but it has to get me somewhere. Right now, my time is being wasted because I don't know how to do it properly. I mean, I know how it should work in theory, but I cant achieve it.
psn
Member
Thanks, some friends of me waited for this
kutthoat5150
Member
Hell yes can't wait to drive the vette in game, hopefully we'll get some American tracks as well like Laguna
Big Takeover
Member
C7, yummay!
@Seanspeed You're putting too much on your plate at one time. Get yourself situated first using a wheel, paddles, and two pedals. You're trying to swim before you can tread water. That's why you're drowning. Smh, RHD shifting... just get around the track in a respectable time first, brother!
@Seanspeed You're putting too much on your plate at one time. Get yourself situated first using a wheel, paddles, and two pedals. You're trying to swim before you can tread water. That's why you're drowning. Smh, RHD shifting... just get around the track in a respectable time first, brother!
Bought, installing now.
I took a break from sim racing, was milliseconds away from a re-up of my iracing sub, then i saw this. Thanks for the racing fix.
I genuinely feel that Brits have it all wrong with right hand drive. I'm sure its not a huge problem getting used to it, but when the majority of the human population are right-handed, it makes far more sense to do the fiddly bit with your right arm and not your left.C7, yummay!
@Seanspeed You're putting too much on your plate at one time. Get yourself situated first using a wheel, paddles, and two pedals. You're trying to swim before you can tread water. That's why you're drowning. Smh, RHD shifting... just get around the track in a respectable time first, brother!
And yea, I'm gonna keep at it, but I'm unsure how to put in decent times when I cant get through my braking phase properly.
drugstore_cowboy
Member
There's some elastic band mods to add some spring and resistance to the shifter, G25 one felt too floppy for me but I never got around to adjusting it to my liking.
Betta Lines
Member
Regarding pedal FFB, the ClubSport V2s have a little motor on the brake to simulate ABS vibration, but I doubt it's useful (the wheel will vibrate too, there's no difference). I don't believe true pedal FFB would be useful. It might seem like you're missing active pedal feedback, but real pedals don't give that much useful feedback at all (particularly all those with brake/throttle-by-wire systems). They're just heavier in real cars. Even >thousand dollar pedal sets have no active feedback. What you're missing is the seat-of-the-pants feel, that tells you exactly what the car is doing before any feedback reaches the steering column. This feeling is so immediate that it might give the impression that the pedals are giving you feedback, but they're not (they might vibrate a bit, but it's not useful information for your feet). It's the combination of heavy control weights, which you adjust to very quickly with muscle memory to perform precise inputs, and what you feel through your body.
The solution for sims is to a) make the pedals heavier, and b) turn up the tyre noise (this is the most immediate feedback that we have to replace seat-of-the-pants feel, unless you're very good at gauging it visually).
The solution for sims is to a) make the pedals heavier, and b) turn up the tyre noise (this is the most immediate feedback that we have to replace seat-of-the-pants feel, unless you're very good at gauging it visually).
I'd say the steering wheel is the most important part of a vehicle and i want my right hand on it at ALL TIMES. I feel safe using my left hand to change gears because i know my right hand won't let me down, so much so that i steer one handed most of the time. I've tried steering with only my left hand and it scares the life out of me. I wouldn't trust my left hand to wipe my own arse.
Betta Lines
Member
But all it's telling you is that you're hitting the ABS threshold, which means you've braked too hard anyway. Having a heavier pedal and knowing subconsciously how much pressure is required is much more useful in terms of being fast. As for the clutch... being able to feel a biting point is nice, but I doubt it makes you faster. If you're fast with a clutch it means you're on and off it in a flash - it's all about timing rather than 'feel' in that case. I really don't believe making pedals an output device (rather than just input) would make you faster (compared to a set with the same realistic resistance).
microtubule
Member
psn
Member
900° here. Sometimes when I start up the game without the wheel plugged in I get the same error, but when I make sure its plugged in before I start the game it's no problem for me.
TJP
Member
I've posted this guide once before but it may be worth revisiting with the AC sale: http://simhqmotorsports.com/assetto-corsa-hints-tips-part-1/
That all makes a good amount of sense. I guess its just near impossible to properly simulate that instinctive feel of driving an actual vehicle.
I don't know why it scares you that much. Maybe just cuz you're not used to it? Most of the world does it just fine.
Geez, what a shithole of opinions Facebook is. Embarrassing.
Alright, where's JamboGT? I'm still trying to figure out how to brake and downshift properly and cant do it for the life of me. I watched this vid of Jambo's from a while back during our hotlap challenge:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eGRDLG99bpk&feature=youtu.be
and I cant get anything close to that. For the first corner, he's braking at the 50m board while I'm having to brake at around the 80m point or thereabouts and I *still* manage to lock up like crazy and go in too deep or spin out as I release the clutch after shifting. On the backstraight, he's braking at about 70m at the end of it while I'm doing it at the 100m board and again, having trouble with that.
I don't get it. What on earth is he doing there to achieve that? I've managed to get down to the 1:24's, but I'm quickly reaching a point where improvement is going to come smaller and smaller til I can sort out my braking. Its impossible for me to drive my desired line if I cant slow the car down how I need it to and regain some ounce of control at the end of it.
then how come most games have the complex interactions with the left hand (eg aiming in an FPS, steering in a racing game), and the right hand is secondary?
Just noticed the game is 1/3 off on steam, might be enough to push me over the edge on getting my GFGT dusted off - hopefully setting up FFB isn't too painful
Aiming is done with your right hand with both controllers and KB+M.
I'm also not simply talking about fine motor control with fingers, but general coordination of the whole arm.
Wasn't a super in-depth thought or anything, either. Don't take it too seriously.
Aiming is done with your right hand with both controllers and KB+M.
I'm also not simply talking about fine motor control with fingers, but general coordination of the whole arm.
Wasn't a super in-depth thought or anything, either. Don't take it too seriously.
I clearly wasn't as I couldn't even remember which hand does the aiming
all I know is that right hand drive feels natural to me. I'd expect either to be completely natural to drivers once you've driven for a while, and driving a different type of car would feel odd.
so back on topic.. If you were to pick one 'sim' game as a start point for a PC noob, would you choose this or something else? I have a DFGT and wheelstand pro but only really used them with GT on PS3