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Assetto Corsa: Early Access |OT|

Could this game teach me to drive stick? Well, my friend is teaching me in a few weeks, but I'm really intrigued by the idea of buying this game, an oculus rift and the G27 and learning to drive stick (and race fast awesome cars, obviously.) Obviously, it won't be quite like the real thing... but the idea really intrigues me.

You should get all those things anyway because, you know, fun. :)

Sims aside, driving stick is more difficult to think about doing than it will be for you to actually do it. You play video games, so you're probably not hopelessly unable to do more than one thing at a time. You'll learn how to do it, you'll practice doing it, you'll know how to do it. It's not something that needs much preparation other than the very basics. It's like riding a bike. How should you prepare to learn how to ride a bike? Don't bother, there's very little to learn. It's all about practice.
 

Zeth

Member
Comparison of Nürburgring GP with one lap between Assetto Corsa and the real life, in Assetto I use the Lotus Exos T125 S1 (with Red Bull skin) and the real video is a onboard with RB9 at Nürburgring GP.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=77cR4tFinkQ

.

Awesome work! I'm pretty happy with this modern F1 approximation. Probably as good as it gets without a license. And I've nearly got the whole 2014 grid at this point, modders have been doing serious work.

That combo is gonna kill me though. I managed 1:39.5 and I'd be surprised if I could cut a second off - still 4.6 from world record. I've been watching videos of hot laps and I just can't perform the precision needed well enough. It's great fun though.
 

psn

Member
458 Italia GT coming soon I guess:
zLHClgS.jpg
 

Seanspeed

Banned
Could this game teach me to drive stick? Well, my friend is teaching me in a few weeks, but I'm really intrigued by the idea of buying this game, an oculus rift and the G27 and learning to drive stick (and race fast awesome cars, obviously.) Obviously, it won't be quite like the real thing... but the idea really intrigues me.
There's some things you could learn from it. Just learning the general coordination of gear changes with your arms and legs could definitely help. I think the hardest thing about learning stick in the beginning is really just pulling away from a stop, though(especially if you live somewhere where the land isn't flat), and that's something the game wont teach you properly.

Comparison of Nürburgring GP with one lap between Assetto Corsa and the real life, in Assetto I use the Lotus Exos T125 S1 (with Red Bull skin) and the real video is a onboard with RB9 at Nürburgring GP.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=77cR4tFinkQ

.
125 S1 definitely has a bit more grip. Vettel has better top speed, particularly through the DRS zones. He catches up to the 125 S1 on the back straight despite being a fair ways behind coming out of the corner.

Cool video.
 

Dave_6

Member
I decided to move my PC from the living room back to the room where my old PC was on a desk. The only problem is my DFGT won't clamp on the desk as the desk is too thick :( I've got a new 24" monitor on the way to replace the current 19" one so if I have to sit farther back because of a wheelstand maybe it won't be too bad with the larger monitor.
 

Watevaman

Member
You can remove the rubber parts of the clamp on the DFGT to add about half an inch or maybe more of clearance. There was a picture posted here on GAF showing what I'm talking about but I can't find it.
 

Seanspeed

Banned
When using a controller, I'd always had severe problems trying to make corrections. I put that down to the nature of using analog sticks in a game like this.

But now with a wheel, I still have the same problem. Any tiny little slide typically means a full-on spinout. I simply cant control them whatsoever, no matter what I do.

Is this something with the game or am I just doing something wrong? It doesn't feel right to me.
 

Watevaman

Member
I find corrections to be all about coordination of every aspect of the car: steering, acceleration, and braking. There are some incidents that are just unrecoverable, but if you can catch the problem early enough and can figure out what you need to do to correct it (typically in a slide it's countersteering and gently letting off the gas), then it's definitely easy to recover.
 
Is this something with the game or am I just doing something wrong? It doesn't feel right to me.
I find slides to be very recoverable in AC, although I still get a very slight sensation of latency compared to ISImotor sims and iRacing - this is strange as the physics apparently run at a similar rate in all of them. The progressive feel of the tyre slip in AC more than makes up for this anyway.

Hard to give a general tip as slides require slightly different reactions depending on the situation and car, but I guess the basic one is to be fast with the steering on initial reaction while remaining as smooth as possible with the pedals (if you're super-fast with steering you don't even need to be smooth with the pedals tbh).
 

paskowitz

Member
When using a controller, I'd always had severe problems trying to make corrections. I put that down to the nature of using analog sticks in a game like this.

But now with a wheel, I still have the same problem. Any tiny little slide typically means a full-on spinout. I simply cant control them whatsoever, no matter what I do.

Is this something with the game or am I just doing something wrong? It doesn't feel right to me.

This is going to sound a bit Yoda, but, you steer the car with the pedals and point it with the wheel. Often times, a change in trajectory can easily be accomplished by a change in throttle or brake input. Obviously this depends on the situation and the car. Try undercorrecting with opposite lock. Then undercorrect and mix in changing throttle and brake input. Then start ratcheting up the steering lock until you start to correct slides on the first initial steering movement. If you are correcting one way, then the other, you are steering too much and need to tone things down.

It is hard to convey this type of information over text, but I would highly recommend this book:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/0760340501/?tag=neogaf0e-20
ultimate-speed-secrets-complete-guide-high-performance-race-ross-bentley-paperback-cover-art.jpg
 

Seanspeed

Banned
I just wasn't steering fast enough, thanks guys. Still need a bit of work on it, but I could correct some minor slides fairly easily. Gotta be a bit rougher with the wheel at times.

And paskowitz, I'm aware of how corrections work, I'm just getting used to using this wheel. The FFB is stronger and different than I'm used to and its not immediately intuitive to fight against it like I need to.

EDIT: And I did have that book before.

Anyways, back to my old problem - brakes. Cant figure it out. I'm just locking up everywhere and cant get a feeling for the limit. I press down, its ok, its ok, BAM LOCKUP. It wouldn't be so bad if I could press down on the pedal more, but I usually cant apply more than 1/3-1/2 pressure. I'm having to feather the brake pedal and I'm completely unable to get any sort of consistency in my braking. My driving with the wheel has improved a lot elsewhere, I'm getting more and more comfortable with heel/toe, but the braking itself is really killing me.

Down to a 1:22.5 on Magione with the Xbow. Just two seconds off. I know where a lot of that is too, but its seriously hard for me to put together a lap when my braking is all over the place from corner to corner and lap to lap.
 

paskowitz

Member
I just wasn't steering fast enough, thanks guys. Still need a bit of work on it, but I could correct some minor slides fairly easily. Gotta be a bit rougher with the wheel at times.

And paskowitz, I'm aware of how corrections work, I'm just getting used to using this wheel. The FFB is stronger and different than I'm used to and its not immediately intuitive to fight against it like I need to.

EDIT: And I did have that book before.

Anyways, back to my old problem - brakes. Cant figure it out. I'm just locking up everywhere and cant get a feeling for the limit. I press down, its ok, its ok, BAM LOCKUP. It wouldn't be so bad if I could press down on the pedal more, but I usually cant apply more than 1/3-1/2 pressure. I'm having to feather the brake pedal and I'm completely unable to get any sort of consistency in my braking. My driving with the wheel has improved a lot elsewhere, I'm getting more and more comfortable with heel/toe, but the braking itself is really killing me.

Down to a 1:22.5 on Magione with the Xbow. Just two seconds off. I know where a lot of that is too, but its seriously hard for me to put together a lap when my braking is all over the place from corner to corner and lap to lap.

In terms of brakes, again it all depends, but
- Initial depression should be fast (but not a stab)
- Initial pressure should be between 90-100%
- Releasing brake pressure is the critical part
- You should release pressure smoothly and relatively slowly (it helps to have a high resistance pedal)
- Going to 100% pressure, then to 60% then to 90% is a sure fire way to lock up. 40-50-95% is also bad. Basically try not to make huge jumps in pressure.
- If you do lock up, obviously let up and apply pressure slowly, feeling out the grip available. Also give a small pause between the lock up and re-pressing the brake pedal.

I would also turn the tire noise up and try to listen for tires breaking free.
 
Anyways, back to my old problem - brakes. Cant figure it out. I'm just locking up everywhere and cant get a feeling for the limit. I press down, its ok, its ok, BAM LOCKUP.
To be fair, that is pretty much how lockups happen, there is very little progression to it (compared to slip angle in a slide). Braking is by far the most important aspect to improving lap time, which is why brake mods and load cell products are such a big deal. It comes with practice, building some sensitivity in your foot. It is easier to learn this sensitivity if your pedal is stiffer. 1/3 to 1/2 pressure doesn't sound right though - if you watch a replay of yourself locking at 1/3rd brake travel then there is something wrong (if the sim is showing 1/3rd travel and locking then that's a sim problem rather than a hardware one so I doubt that is happening and it just feels like it is - I don't think there is a vehicle in AC that will lock brakes at 1/3rd travel at any speed).
 

Dave_6

Member
You can remove the rubber parts of the clamp on the DFGT to add about half an inch or maybe more of clearance. There was a picture posted here on GAF showing what I'm talking about but I can't find it.

Thank you! That works perfectly, just enough room to clamp it to the desk. I had no idea those parts were removable! This is really going to help my driving some as this heavy desk isn't going to wobble like that cheap stand I was using.
 

Seanspeed

Banned
In terms of brakes, again it all depends, but
- Initial depression should be fast (but not a stab)
- Initial pressure should be between 90-100%
- Releasing brake pressure is the critical part
- You should release pressure smoothly and relatively slowly (it helps to have a high resistance pedal)
- Going to 100% pressure, then to 60% then to 90% is a sure fire way to lock up. 40-50-95% is also bad. Basically try not to make huge jumps in pressure.
- If you do lock up, obviously let up and apply pressure slowly, feeling out the grip available. Also give a small pause between the lock up and re-pressing the brake pedal.

I would also turn the tire noise up and try to listen for tires breaking free.
Again man, thanks, but I'm aware of how this is all supposed to work in real life.

Its adapting to the specific wheel and pedal setup I have that is proving troubling. For instance, I cant get anywhere near 90-100% pressure. I'm locking up well before that.

To be fair, that is pretty much how lockups happen, there is very little progression to it (compared to slip angle in a slide). Braking is by far the most important aspect to improving lap time, which is why brake mods and load cell products are such a big deal. It comes with practice, building some sensitivity in your foot. It is easier to learn this sensitivity if your pedal is stiffer. 1/3 to 1/2 pressure doesn't sound right though - if you watch a replay of yourself locking at 1/3rd brake travel then there is something wrong (if the sim is showing 1/3rd travel and locking then that's a sim problem rather than a hardware one so I doubt that is happening and it just feels like it is - I don't think there is a vehicle in AC that will lock brakes at 1/3rd travel at any speed).
It definitely feels wrong. I'm paying specific attention to the pressure I'm putting on the pedal and I really cant press it down much at all. I basically have about 50% of the normal pedal travel to work with at best, which obviously makes things difficult.

As far as how lockups happen, I don't know man, you can generally feel the tires reaching their limit before the lockup happens. For me, there's just no warning and no way to really judge it properly. If I had more pedal travel, I could at least have a bit of room to get some muscle memory with it, but its far too sensitive at the moment.
 

paskowitz

Member
Again man, thanks, but I'm aware of how this is all supposed to work in real life.

Its adapting to the specific wheel and pedal setup I have that is proving troubling. For instance, I cant get anywhere near 90-100% pressure. I'm locking up well before that.


It definitely feels wrong. I'm paying specific attention to the pressure I'm putting on the pedal and I really cant press it down much at all. I basically have about 50% of the normal pedal travel to work with at best, which obviously makes things difficult.

As far as how lockups happen, I don't know man, you can generally feel the tires reaching their limit before the lockup happens. For me, there's just no warning and no way to really judge it properly. If I had more pedal travel, I could at least have a bit of room to get some muscle memory with it, but its far too sensitive at the moment.

GT Eye spring mod+a little piece of foam. When I had a G25 I put a super stiff spring in it. This is just my personal preference, but it definitely help my no ABS driving in GT5.
 
It definitely feels wrong. I'm paying specific attention to the pressure I'm putting on the pedal and I really cant press it down much at all. I basically have about 50% of the normal pedal travel to work with at best, which obviously makes things difficult.

As far as how lockups happen, I don't know man, you can generally feel the tires reaching their limit before the lockup happens. For me, there's just no warning and no way to really judge it properly. If I had more pedal travel, I could at least have a bit of room to get some muscle memory with it, but its far too sensitive at the moment.
So are you saying that you're giving 50% travel (showing as 50% in the driver) but the pedal reading in the game is more, which is resulting in the lockup? Or you're actually locking up with the brake travel reading 50% in the game?

[edit] I just did some tests to make sure - I tried every car that has no ABS by default, braking from 100mph to 0 and from 30mph to 0. Each time I made the pedal travel spike quickly beyond 50%, and then trailed back the pressure (but still holding it above 50%). None of them locked. The closest to locking were the Tatuus and Lotus T125 - they are right on the verge of locking at low speeds if I do 50% travel (and they do lock a split second before reaching a complete standstill, as you'd expect). However, in heavy braking areas (after a long straight), I'm able to make an initial brake input of at least 75% in all of these cars without locking (before trailing back).


[second edit] Just thinking about what you said... you don't want more pedal travel, you want less, but stiffer. With more pedal travel you're relying on positional memory, which is very difficult. With less travel and high stiffness, muscle memory is more effective (because it's much easier to apply the same pressure each time than to find the same position each time). I'm using the included brake mod on my T500 pedals, and it basically reduces the travel by half - huge improvement. Most load cell solutions also have fairly short throws. The problem with the stock G27 is that the brake pretty much feels the same all the way through the travel, whereas a real brake has a distinct change in pressure when you're around that critical area. That critical area is basically the second half of your brake's travel - all that travel is no travel on a load cell. You can feel the stop and the need to press harder. With the G27 there is no stop - you're just pushing through this critical area with no change in sensation.
 

Three60

Member
http://www.gamemag.it/news/assetto-...ayer-forse-anche-su-xbox-one-e-ps4_51407.html

Google translated >

Assetto Corsa: version 1.0 with the multiplayer in April. Maybe on PS4 and Xbox One
by Nino Fat , published March 12, 2014, at 11:57

"During the awards ceremony at the Golden Dragon Award we had the opportunity to chat with Mark Massarutto Licensing Project Manager for Kunos Simulations,
has revealed that juicy news about the new all-Italian automobile simulator"

At the awards ceremony at the Golden Dragon Award organized dall'Aesvi, the trade association of the gaming industry in Italy, Assetto Corsa has received the award for best technical achievement . To withdraw was obviously Marco Massarutto of Kunos Simulations, with whom we have had occasion to speak, gathering important information.

Marco has revealed that the 1.0 version , including multiplayer, in Assetto Corsa will become available during the month of April. He said the group is a good point with the netcode and multiplayer Assetto Corsa will be strictly based on dedicated servers , as also that of netKar Pro , the previous production Kunos.

In addition, Mark has not excluded that in the future Assetto Corsa can get on the next-gen consoles , indeed revealed to us in that preview Kunos is exploring the possibility of making a porting on PS4 and Xbox One of his acclaimed racing simulation. Not before finalizing the best PC version, of course.

Kunos Simulations is an independent team in all respects, made up of professionals driven by the same passion about everything related to the world of automobiles. For this Kunos has no external financing, while all licenses (including extremely famous brands such as Ferrari, BMW, Lotus, Pagani, McLaren and circuits such as Nurburgring Nordschleife, Spa-Francorchamps, Imola, Monza) are acquired with autonomous financing.

"We make racing games just for the pleasure of doing good driving games," he said Massarutto the awards ceremony of the Golden Dragon. "Even if there was a big producer interested in acquiring the brand Assetto Corsa, we would be proud of what we have done to make Assetto Corsa so good."

Recently Kunos has secured the license for the Corvette , thanks to which you will add two new vehicles to the line-up already made ​​official, C7 Corvette Stingray 2014 and Corvette C7.r (the latter later in a DLC for a fee). He did so after realizing that his driving simulation has a large international following, transcending the boundaries now in a clear national or European.
 
[second edit] Just thinking about what you said... you don't want more pedal travel, you want less, but stiffer. With more pedal travel you're relying on positional memory, which is very difficult. With less travel and high stiffness, muscle memory is more effective (because it's much easier to apply the same pressure each time than to find the same position each time). I'm using the included brake mod on my T500 pedals, and it basically reduces the travel by half - huge improvement. Most load cell solutions also have fairly short throws. The problem with the stock G27 is that the brake pretty much feels the same all the way through the travel, whereas a real brake has a distinct change in pressure when you're around that critical area. That critical area is basically the second half of your brake's travel - all that travel is no travel on a load cell. You can feel the stop and the need to press harder. With the G27 there is no stop - you're just pushing through this critical area with no change in sensation.

Buy me. Seriously, I found it to be a big improvement in feel over the included kit.

Sean, eventually you're going to want to do something with that brake. Either the GTEYE or Nixim springs would be a good starting point if you're looking to buy something quick and easy. You could definitely look into more diy stuff in the meantime, or even instead of.


I can't read about the Golden Dragon awards ceremony without picturing it taking place in a Chinese food restaurant. Like in between karaoke sets.
 
Buy me. Seriously, I found it to be a big improvement in feel over the included kit.
I've been tempted, but it'll make it stiffer again, and I don't particularly want it any stiffer at this point (I've already removed the spring of the brake mod kit, just using the foam), as my pedals are only very poorly secured to the floor and I fear any more force will cause a failure mid-race or something. If I got a proper rig to bolt them to then I'd definitely get this.
 
I've been tempted, but it'll make it stiffer again, and I don't particularly want it any stiffer at this point (I've already removed the spring of the brake mod kit, just using the foam), as my pedals are only very poorly secured to the floor and I fear any more force will cause a failure mid-race or something. If I got a proper rig to bolt them to then I'd definitely get this.

Gotcha.

If I recall correctly, with the softest bushings, it was roughly similar in stiffness to the stock "stiff brake" (minus some travel). If that was too much, then this will probably be too. I think it's that spring that you've taken out that didn't jive with me too well. I couldn't understand what I was feeling. Too many things all squishing at the same time perhaps!

For me, the soft Basher bushings were pretty much instant success. Subconscious understanding of the force required for lockup. It's the first time I've ever been comfortable with a potentiometer.
 

Zeth

Member
Sweet, just bought a GTEYE spring. Should at least be better than stock. I've been messing around with a low break gamma (1.0-1.5) - so only a small amount of pressure is needed to lock the Lotus 125 and it's been working out pretty well. Much easier to remember when the travel distance is short. Having a spring that changes the sensation should help too.

Anything besides the Pagani in tomorrow's update?
 

Solal

Member
Hi there,

I just bought the game and I still don't understand how it deals with controllers...

Drives me mad.

I have a CSR ELite and a TH8RS...when I select those settings the game seems to recognize everything and my inputs appera on the screen (in the config screen)...but when I go to race, nothing happens. As if I did not hjave a wheel...

Same for my PS4 controller... I can see the inputs ...but does not do anything ingame...

Anyone could help please? What am I doing wrong?
 
Hi there,

I just bought the game and I still don't understand how it deals with controllers...

Drives me mad.

I have a CSR ELite and a TH8RS...when I select those settings the game seems to recognize everything and my inputs appera on the screen (in the config screen)...but when I go to race, nothing happens. As if I did not hjave a wheel...

Same for my PS4 controller... I can see the inputs ...but does not do anything ingame...

Anyone could help please? What am I doing wrong?
Do you have the right 'input method' selected across the top of the control options page? I remember when I plugged in a PS3 gamepad for the first time the raw inputs were showing but as the '360 controller' input method wasn't selected at the top, nothing would happen in the sim.
 

Solal

Member
Do you have the right 'input method' selected across the top of the control options page? I remember when I plugged in a PS3 gamepad for the first time the raw inputs were showing but as the '360 controller' input method wasn't selected at the top, nothing would happen in the sim.

It's selected yes... still not workin gthough. :-(
 
It's selected yes... still not workin gthough. :-(
Weird. Did you go through the controller wizard? I should just work if you don't touch any settings after that. Is there nothing displaying in the pedal inputs (it's one of the display 'apps' that you can access on the right of the screen once you've started the sim)?
 

Solal

Member
I am trying with my DS4 right now... nothing works.

What I don't get is that the game recognizes my controller in the control menu... everytime I press a button, it shows it on the tool...but as soon as i go out on the track, nothing happens.

Infuriating.
 

Seanspeed

Banned
I think I've got my braking problem sorted now. I know I brushed off that post of yours paskowitz, but I think I found my problem was definitely that I wasn't going full-on and slowly letting off from there. I was locking up because I was tentative with my initial press and then was trying to modulate the pedal from there, creating lockups as I decreased and then increased pressure again.

I figured this out after spending some time in a non-stick shift car. Basically, in my concentration trying to heel/toe, I was just not braking like I should have been.

Everything feels quite good now. I'm still not great with it, but I know exactly what I'm doing wrong and am already progressing in fixing it and being more consistent.

I'm also having a blast. Its not my first wheel, but its the first time I've used one intensively, trying to be properly competitive with it and all and the learning curve that's coming with it is fucking brilliant, especially with this game cuz it feels more and more amazing the more things come together. I've been running the Formula Abarth on Imola and while I wasn't too enamored with the car with a controller, its really come to life with the G27.
 

paskowitz

Member
I think I've got my braking problem sorted now. I know I brushed off that post of yours paskowitz, but I think I found my problem was definitely that I wasn't going full-on and slowly letting off from there. I was locking up because I was tentative with my initial press and then was trying to modulate the pedal from there, creating lockups as I decreased and then increased pressure again.

I figured this out after spending some time in a non-stick shift car. Basically, in my concentration trying to heel/toe, I was just not braking like I should have been.

Everything feels quite good now. I'm still not great with it, but I know exactly what I'm doing wrong and am already progressing in fixing it and being more consistent.

I'm also having a blast. Its not my first wheel, but its the first time I've used one intensively, trying to be properly competitive with it and all and the learning curve that's coming with it is fucking brilliant, especially with this game cuz it feels more and more amazing the more things come together. I've been running the Formula Abarth on Imola and while I wasn't too enamored with the car with a controller, its really come to life with the G27.

:)

I failed to do this for the longest time and it drove me nuts as well. I sometimes still fail to brake properly. GT5/6's weird braking physics puts some bad habits in my muscle memory.
 

Zeth

Member
Aaany minute now.
edit:
0.7.5
- Pagani Huayra new car (turbo related sounds still wip)
- TC now does not engadge until a car specific speed when launching from stand still
- Aero fixes for Lotus Exos T125, corrects nose up excessive top speed
- Option for player selective collisions. A small workaround until we properly fix the AI. Collisions only occur around a small distance from the player. All other cars do not collide, limiting CPU occupation
- Fixed replay audio bug
- Fixed GUI on some apps
- Fixed race output
- New APP :: Track Description
- New APP :: Real Time X360 car controls debug
- Damage OFF option
- Fixed some glitches in mirror rendering
- Improved CPU performance on Monza
- Reduced launcher RAM and VRAM consumption while the simulator is active.
- Added French translation.
- Collision fixes at Monza and Silverstone gp
- Physical mesh at Silverstone gp more detailed.
- Fixed Concrete size at S-Schumacher, Nurburgring GP
- The launcher now keeps a rotating backup store of the local database (found in Documents\Assetto Corsa\launcherdata\backups)
 
I've been playing this game non stop for the past week. I'm an F1 guy so I've spent most of my time with the Lotus. I can't even go back to F1 2013 after playing this, it feels like a kids game compared to AC. That said, whats the deal with the AI? Do they have plans to improve upon it? They crash into you from behind for no reason, skid out everywhere, its just utter shit.

Does anyone know when the next AI patch gets released, or even better, online play?
 

friday

Member
I've been playing this game non stop for the past week. I'm an F1 guy so I've spent most of my time with the Lotus. I can't even go back to F1 2013 after playing this, it feels like a kids game compared to AC. That said, whats the deal with the AI? Do they have plans to improve upon it? They crash into you from behind for no reason, skid out everywhere, its just utter shit.

Does anyone know when the next AI patch gets released, or even better, online play?

I think it is a placeholder for the time being.
 
I've been playing this game non stop for the past week. I'm an F1 guy so I've spent most of my time with the Lotus. I can't even go back to F1 2013 after playing this, it feels like a kids game compared to AC. That said, whats the deal with the AI? Do they have plans to improve upon it? They crash into you from behind for no reason, skid out everywhere, its just utter shit.

Does anyone know when the next AI patch gets released, or even better, online play?
If you want F1-style cars with similarly good physics, excellent AI and online multiplayer, this already exists: GSC2013. They have also just announced some more free DLC in the form of a F1 2014-regulation car.

AC is a beta. The AI, along with everything else, is unfinished. It will improve, and online should be coming soon.
 

Solal

Member
Well...I fixed my problem. I actually needed to use the costum menu and configure each input one by one.

VERY unpractical and VERY bad designed.

Now I can use my DS4...time to play!
 
Well...I fixed my problem. I actually needed to use the costum menu and configure each input one by one.

VERY unpractical and VERY bad designed.

Now I can use my DS4...time to play!
Glad you're sorted! Not sure what the problem was, but to be fair they don't officially support the DS4 so it makes sense that you had to tell it what inputs it was supposed to read. Plus, gamepad support is limited at the moment and they're looking for community help to get that improved for the v1.0 release.
 

Seanspeed

Banned
Fuck, that first sequence at Imola is really killing me. I feel like I can take it a million times and its different every time. I cant manage any consistency with it for some reason.
 

fozzy

Member
Not having much luck with the controller so I've ordered a wireless dongle so I can use my MS wheel.

I always preferred controller over the wheel on Forza games, but I'm going to put the time in to learn wheel properly.

Does anyone know of any issues using the 360 wheel on PC?

I know it's not perfect, but it's got be better than the controller until I can afford a G27 or whatever.
 
Not having much luck with the controller so I've ordered a wireless dongle so I can use my MS wheel.

I always preferred controller over the wheel on Forza games, but I'm going to put the time in to learn wheel properly.

Does anyone know of any issues using the 360 wheel on PC?

I know it's not perfect, but it's got be better than the controller until I can afford a G27 or whatever.

No force feedback on the MS Xbox wheel when using a PC unless something changed. They promised new drivers but I gave up waiting after a couple of years.
 

Spookie

Member
Fuck, that first sequence at Imola is really killing me. I feel like I can take it a million times and its different every time. I cant manage any consistency with it for some reason.

Do you turn while braking? Or go in to it at an angle then sweep through the corner?
 

Seanspeed

Banned
Do you turn while braking? Or go in to it at an angle then sweep through the corner?
Well I'd been basically trying to brake right after the 100m board(at about 90m or so), have myself aimed to be at the far right of the track for turn-in, then basically make the turn-in with one fairly quick steering input to kind of sweep in there.

I've since stopped trying to maximize my braking there for the purposes of putting in some clean, consistent laps and if I brake right about the 100m board, I'm usually fine. But I know its possible to brake much later(I'm still not comfortable trail-braking, so that'll have to wait).

I do think the tricky part is coming off the braking at just the right speed with just the right steering angle, as you need to get through that first turn not too fast, not too slow with just the right line. I'm just having a hard time judging everything. There's definitely several tenths advantage getting it right(and possibly a little more still if I can brake later), so I'm keen on getting it.

I've basically been using the Formula Abarth on Imola exclusively my past several plays. Its a ton of fun. I'm down to a 1:47.0 and I know I can get down to the low 1:46's, even high 1:45's if I can hook a whole lap up and that all has to start with the first couple turns!
 

Zeth

Member
Anyone using G27 pedals - what setting do you use for Brake Gamma? Any deadzone?

I'm installing a spring mod this week, but I'm looking for a baseline.

edit: I break with my left foot now in all cars. After getting used to it, it's much easier to finesse the pedal than using my right. For me at least.
 

LilJoka

Member
Anyone using G27 pedals - what setting do you use for Brake Gamma? Any deadzone?

I'm installing a spring mod this week, but I'm looking for a baseline.

edit: I break with my left foot now in all cars. After getting used to it, it's much easier to finesse the pedal than using my right. For me at least.

Cant remember the brake gamma i use, but i have the line nearly linear, just a little sag at the start to enable trail braking. I use it like this because im used to Forza's linear pedal inputs.

Spring mod will change the story i think.

I also use left foot braking unless using clutch.
 
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