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[Pepboy]

Just finished first quest. Took about half an hour. Is that normal?

Really like the artwork on the cards. Don't have a grasp on when on when to play a monster or when to just raise my land prices, yet. Most confusing thing is gaining gold I guess. I'm not sure when or why I'm gaining gold. Just rolling with it for now, but I hope it clicks soon because it'll keep bugging me as gaining gold is a major part of the game. Maybe I'm just not paying enough attention.

Having a pretty good time overall. Looks good in 3d with the depth, but I think I'll stick with regular 2d.

Yes pretty normal. You can speed things up under options but usually a match is like 15-40 min depending. At least in my experience.

Earliest quests are designed to be easier and faster. You are taking on AI and decks that are just there in the first few matches to insure you have to try but not get overwhelmed by the card game. 30 minutes is about what the first match with alicia took me too. It progressively gets a little longer here and there on 8000G boards as you face better decks and AI and more folks in a match at the same time. Later boards have higher goals and can take awhile but its all good since you have suspend options in case life gets in the way and you need to pickup the match later on.

Gaining gold isn't too hard.

• Your goal is to hit all the gates. Hitting gates gives you large chunks of gold at a time. Once a gate of all the directions on the board are hit it counts as a lap and you get a much larger amount of gold because it includes a lap bonus and bonuses for things like the amount of territory you have, and other stuff. So if you see a north, south, and East gate you need to hit each before you finish a lap. You cant just hit east repeatedly because each gate only pays out once per lap. Hitting gates and lapping also makes your creatures heal a bit of damage they have taken and also stand up so that you can use their territory abilities again each lap.
• at the beginning of each turn you get 19G + the current round number in gold. This is new. It was added so that in case you are on a long board with huge amounts of spaces between gates you dont go broke for long periods. As the match goes on you get progressively more and more gold per turn. Once everyone has had a turn that is a round and the current round number is visible on the bottom screen of the 3ds.
• Your gold depletes by spending cards or paying tolls. Your net worth increases by more than just that though...Net worth is increased by accumulating territory, leveling up territory, and also by buying elemental gems. Gems are sold at the gem store on certain boards and act like "stock". Buy 3 water gems at the normal price. Then go out and as you and your opponent buy up water elemental land and level those territories the value of those "gem stocks" goes up just like stockmarket stocks. Buy in low before anyone owns a lot of an element then raise the gem value by buying up and increasing the value of such elemental territory on the board. Buy low, sell high. Good way to get some fallback gold to cash out and use in case things get rough.
  Anyhow your net worth is a combination of the amount of gold in your hand, your gem value, and your territory value.

Now you should have an idea of how your Gold is made, how its spent and earned, and how to increase its value faster! Enjoy.

Also here's a fun card for today.
Squid Mantle
G:50
HP+40 / In Battle: Disables opponent's Attack Bonus.


Whats that? Trying to defend a land with a card that says it gets bonuses during battle? Not anymore! Very handy against cards that tend to pull out some kind of special power in battle to ruin your day.

Great writeups! Thanks shaowebb for helping introduce new players.

Regarding the squid mantle, I thought it was more defensive than offensive. It says it disables the opponents attack bonus, not all special powers, right? Maybe I misunderstood your example though.

 

[shaowebb]

Great writeups! Thanks shaowebb for helping introduce new players.

Regarding the squid mantle, I thought it was more defensive than offensive. It says it disables the opponents attack bonus, not all special powers, right? Maybe I misunderstood your example though.

It is defensive, but nothing sucks worse than trying to invade a land thats beefy as hell on attack. If it works like sea bonze it should allow me to ignore things like first attack too. Just added it to my deck. It was a card that just never appeared yet for my japanese copy's save file since its rare so I'm pretty pumped to play with it. Its definitely something I've faced though when invading someone and the AI used it to nullify several bonuses of mine before. It got rid of my Soul Collector atk bonus once.

Honestly all I used to rock were elemental shields but since Culdcept 3ds Omiyasoft has made scrolls more and more prevalent and elemental shields do not protect vs scrolls. Now I experiment more with armor.

Oh and by the way to all Culdcept fans notice anything different about Revolt's card list? Idols are gone.

 

[Totakeke]

Is there no way to quit a match in the campaign?

Also, does it feel like the AI will always choose the best card in a battle depending what you chose? For example, card A and B are in my hand, and C and D are in his hand. A beats C, loses to D, and B beats D, but loses to C. Will I always lose the battle regardless of what I choose?

There's no way to read the cards in the other players hands too after they've drawn them, right?

 

[shaowebb]

Is there no way to quit a match in the campaign?

Also, does it feel like the AI will always choose the best card in a battle depending what you chose? For example, card A and B are in my hand, and C and D are in his hand. A beats C, loses to D, and B beats D, but loses to C. Will I always lose the battle regardless of what I choose?

There's no way to read the cards in the other players hands too after they've drawn them, right?

Once its in the enemies hand its always pretty much been up to you to remember things that were shown they held during their turn when they drew a card. Thats the only time it really shows you all the cards in an enemy's hand save for the times you cast something like shatter and dig through their hand to use the spell on a card.

As for enemy AI most times the enemy will do its math and try to defend heavily. Not all enemies attack though and they often pay tolls. Each enemy AI is different and some emphasize defending heavily while others do it less so. Generally though if they can save their land they will.

Enemies defending heavily is a thing you can use to your advantage though! Often I find myself eyeballing an enemy's leveled land and thinking "that one is a problem and I need to take it down". Thing is I'll notice they have an armor in their hand that'd prevent me from taking it out. So what do I do? I invade some low level crap territory and force them to either use that armor on that worthless land or lose it...9 times out of 10 (or more) they blow their item defending the useless stuff instead of hoarding it to protect their major linchpin lands that are leveled. If an enemy has armor get em to use it on stupid shit or shatter it.

Dont worry too much about enemy weapons though. They'll try to kill a land if they land on it and very few opponent AI emphasize invading with cards on the board. This gives you time to prep as most combat will be incidental in early rounds. Early on its a bit touchy as you wont have a ton of really nice shields and stuff yet but you can generally count on the enemy AI usually stopping at just calculating how much to hit your land for without adding in your potential armor values from cards you could choose to play in battle to help defend it. Harder enemies will sometimes say screw it and just attack no matter what you got. More aggressive opponents (like Zenith throughout this series) are known to often attack whether or not they can win simply because it will wear out your creatures till they are weak enough to eventually take out. I personally just think those dudes are programmed to ALWAYS attack and aren't smart enough to try and chip away at threats like that because they generally invade anything they can kill and attack anything rather than pay a toll.

Game isn't rigged is essentially what your take away should be from all this. You can use its defensive nature against it to deplete its resources, and you can generally (if you built your deck with decent armors ) stop attackers quite often. I say get you a couple of neutralize tools and just watch out for scroll users and use other armors for those occassions. Gaseous form and some elemental shields will do you wonders.

 

[Totakeke]

Once its in the enemies hand its always pretty much been up to you to remember things that were shown they held during their turn when they drew a card. Thats the only time it really shows you all the cards in an enemy's hand save for the times you cast something like shatter and dig through their hand to use the spell on a card.

As for enemy AI most times the enemy will do its math and try to defend heavily. Not all enemies attack though and they often pay tolls. Each enemy AI is different and some emphasize defending heavily while others do it less so. Generally though if they can save their land they will.

Enemies defending heavily is a thing you can use to your advantage though! Often I find myself eyeballing an enemy's leveled land and thinking "that one is a problem and I need to take it down". Thing is I'll notice they have an armor in their hand that'd prevent me from taking it out. So what do I do? I invade some low level crap territory and force them to either use that armor on that worthless land or lose it...9 times out of 10 (or more) they blow their item defending the useless stuff instead of hoarding it to protect their major linchpin lands that are leveled. If an enemy has armor get em to use it on stupid shit or shatter it.

Dont worry too much about enemy weapons though. They'll try to kill a land if they land on it and very few opponent AI emphasize invading with cards on the board. This gives you time to prep as most combat will be incidental in early rounds. Early on its a bit touchy as you wont have a ton of really nice shields and stuff yet but you can generally count on the enemy AI usually stopping at just calculating how much to hit your land for without adding in your potential armor values from cards you could choose to play in battle to help defend it. Harder enemies will sometimes say screw it and just attack no matter what you got. More aggressive opponents (like Zenith throughout this series) are known to often attack whether or not they can win simply because it will wear out your creatures till they are weak enough to eventually take out. I personally just think those dudes are programmed to ALWAYS attack and aren't smart enough to try and chip away at threats like that because they generally invade anything they can kill and attack anything rather than pay a toll.

Game isn't rigged is essentially what your take away should be from all this. You can use its defensive nature against it to deplete its resources, and you can generally (if you built your deck with decent armors ) stop attackers quite often. I say get you a couple of neutralize tools and just watch out for scroll users and use other armors for those occassions. Gaseous form and some elemental shields will do you wonders.

Not sure if you're referring to the same thing, but in single player you can always check what cards are in a player's hand at all times... the only you can't do is read the cards. I'm quite offended by that design since all it asks you to do is to look up the cards elsewhere.

As for the battle question, it was mainly to ask if the AI will always choose the best card after you have chosen yours. In other words, do they know what cards you choose? If it is as you say, that they tend to favor defensive cards, then that's fine. Otherwise I feel inclined to follow whatever the adviser tells me to pick since I assume it'll only recommend picking items that would actually work.

 

[Buzzi]

Lost two times at the first quest :0
First time it was essentially bad luck, enemy kept moving by 12 and thus could increase its lands so often... Second time I was leading 5600 to 4500, made a small mistake trying to steal a territory (thought the scroll attack would be summed to my monster attack) and then everything crumbled and lost 8000 to 7600. I guess I'm not thinking out of the box enough, like changing territories' elements. What does elemental chain do? Boost to money? It didn't seem an increase to stats.

 

[Ekid]

So, how did everyone find out about the free DLC? I had no idea since I usually media blackout on anything I'm set on buying.

I got a mail from NIS early last month.

Though I don't remember giving them my address.

 

[GDJustin]

I looooved the original Culdcept. Hated the 360 version. How does this one stack up, GAF?

I got a copy through work so not worried about spending the dough... just wondering if I'll get crazy hooked on it like I did a decade ago, or if it's a bust....

 

[Victrix]

Staggered this got a US release

 

[Regiruler]

Also here's a fun card for today.
Squid Mantle
G:50
HP+40 / In Battle: Disables opponent's Attack Bonus.


Whats that? Trying to defend a land with a card that says it gets bonuses during battle? Not anymore! Very handy against cards that tend to pull out some kind of special power in battle to ruin your day.

This never seems to do anything. The AI used it against my Amphibious Warrior but its damage wasn't changed outside of not being dead due to the 40hp bonus. I generally prefer Gelatinous Armor because it typically pays you back twice over (I was fortunate enough to get 2 rather painlessly for my Water/Air Weapon deck).

Current holy grail is to get an ironmonger and hopefully something that lets me use excess card advantage. I run a fate in the deck and it works well, but I pretty consistently have a wings in my hand already at the discard limit. However, using items drains your hand fast. I wish there was a way you could pre-equip items or something.

 

[shaowebb]

Lost two times at the first quest :0
First time it was essentially bad luck, enemy kept moving by 12 and thus could increase its lands so often... Second time I was leading 5600 to 4500, made a small mistake trying to steal a territory (thought the scroll attack would be summed to my monster attack) and then everything crumbled and lost 8000 to 7600. I guess I'm not thinking out of the box enough, like changing territories' elements. What does elemental chain do? Boost to money? It didn't seem an increase to stats.

Ouch...yeah scrolls replace your attack power not add onto it like normal weapons. Sorry you had to go through that one.

Changing a territory's element so that it matches that of the creature on it is good to create chains but it can also lead to you depleting your gold resources very fast. Neutral land or multielement land only takes 100G to change but normal land costs 300G and the price goes UP the more the land is leveled. Keep this in mind and whenever possible put like creature on like land or just use a territory command to exchange a creature instead for one thats the correct element for the land. Its cheaper that way than always changing elements.

What chaining does is it exponentially increases your toll value. If you got a lvl 3 land by itself imagine it being only around 500-600. Pretty good...but not huge. Now snatch up 3 or 4 more lands of that SAME element and suddenly look at how much that toll is worth. Land is still only lvl 3 but its now got a toll over a 1000 or something. Chaining increases toll value which in turn increases your net worth a lot. If you want to slow down an enemy with only 1 leveled land and you cant take it out sometimes you can just chip away at his chain of lands of that element to bring down his networth by a considerable margin.

Also never forget the perk that a creature on the same element gets health bonus in battle and the bonus goes UP the higher the level of the land. I think they took out the old bonus in Revolt where if you had another territory next to your own that it'd give you a +10 to atk in battle though. Dont quote me because I jump around between Saga, 3ds, and Revolt a lot.

 

[Buzzi]

Ouch...yeah scrolls replace your attack power not add onto it like normal weapons. Sorry you had to go through that one.

Changing a territory's element so that it matches that of the creature on it is good to create chains but it can also lead to you depleting your gold resources very fast. Neutral land or multielement land only takes 100G to change but normal land costs 300G and the price goes UP the more the land is leveled. Keep this in mind and whenever possible put like creature on like land or just use a territory command to exchange a creature instead for one thats the correct element for the land. Its cheaper that way than always changing elements.

What chaining does is it exponentially increases your toll value. If you got a lvl 3 land by itself imagine it being only around 500-600. Pretty good...but not huge. Now snatch up 3 or 4 more lands of that SAME element and suddenly look at how much that toll is worth. Land is still only lvl 3 but its now got a toll over a 1000 or something. Chaining increases toll value which in turn increases your net worth a lot. If you want to slow down an enemy with only 1 leveled land and you cant take it out sometimes you can just chip away at his chain of lands of that element to bring down his networth by a considerable margin.

Also never forget the perk that a creature on the same element gets health bonus in battle and the bonus goes UP the higher the level of the land. I think they took out the old bonus in Revolt where if you had another territory next to your own that it'd give you a +10 to atk in battle though. Dont quote me because I jump around between Saga, 3ds, and Revolt a lot.

Thanks, finally beat the stage today quite easily (8000 to 4200), looks promising as a system, although I'm not exactly a fan of deck building.

Just to make sure, the progression here is completely based on more powerful cards (maybe that small N in their corner is a kind of tier) or there's also something jrpg-esque?

 

[UncleSporky]

Thanks, finally beat the stage today quite easily (8000 to 4200), looks promising as a system, although I'm not exactly a fan of deck building.

Just to make sure, the progression here is completely based on more powerful cards (maybe that small N in their corner is a kind of tier) or there's also something jrpg-esque?

Progression is based on getting more cards in general. Cards themselves are not necessarily more powerful, but enable crazier combos of things you can do.

I mean remember more powerful cards cost more to use, or might require already owning two green lands, or something. There's always a trade off, but in general later cards you get may be more beneficial.

N = normal card, S = strange card, R = rare card, E = extra card. You get fewer of each in packs as rarity increases (E cards are always special one of a kind type things).

 

[Spman2099]

I mean remember more powerful cards cost more to use, or might require already owning two green lands, or something. There's always a trade off, but in general later cards you get may be more beneficial.

Very true.

At one point, when we were still learning how to play Culdcept effectively, everyone I was playing with was doubling down on expensive, powerful cards with a multitude of conditions. We were all having these really awkward beginning phases, where we would sometimes really struggle to acquire land. One of my friends, as a response to this, built a deck specifically with super cheap monsters. It ended up being the Culdcept equivalent of the Zerg rush. He destroyed us all until we adapted and built smarter, more balanced, decks.

 

[Regiruler]

Are there any cards that have blue/green etc compatibility? I think I'll get sick of only having 2 real combinations.

Very true.

At one point, when were were still learning how to play Culdcept effectively, everyone I was playing with was doubling down on expensive, powerful cards with a multitude of conditions. We were all having these really awkward beginning phases, where we would sometimes really struggle to acquire land. One of my friends, as a response to this, built a deck specifically with super cheap monsters. It ended up being the Culdcept equivalent of the Zerg rush. He destroyed us all until we adapted and built smarter, more balanced, decks.

You can make those decks consistent out the ass though provided you run a goblins lair and plenty of thinning/advantage cards.

 

[shaowebb]

Are there any cards that have blue/green etc compatibility? I think I'll get sick of only having 2 real combinations.

Two cards come to mind. Aquahorn. Its 50/30 & neutralizes blue/green. Turquois amulet gives you 60% instadeath vs blue/green and it neutralizes blue green too.

Aside from that elemental shields for neutralise all save scroll attacks would work nicely. Undine also has its health in battle equal to the number of blue territories x20 and neutralises blue.

Generally its blue yellow (storm gear and creatures) or red green (magma gear and creatures) in this series. Not many run blue green bonuses.

 

[Buzzi]

Wow, quest 1 stage 3 was so close that I'm still vibrating. Was losing 6000 to 7500 after a pair of unfortunate rolls, then took 900G from p3 and rolled just the right number to land between tons of other monsters. I think p2 had the opportunity to win though, its last action was a land upgrade to l2, but it had spared money to go up to l5 and was already standing on a gate...

 

[Rhyel]

New chance to get Free DLC to all regions.

Links on twitter:

https://twitter.com/NISAmerica?s=09

 

[Pepboy]

Wow, quest 1 stage 3 was so close that I'm still vibrating. Was losing 6000 to 7500 after a pair of unfortunate rolls, then took 900G from p3 and rolled just the right number to land between tons of other monsters. I think p2 had the opportunity to win though, its last action was a land upgrade to l2, but it had spared money to go up to l5 and was already standing on a gate...

Awesome! Ah sometimes I noticed this too, where the AI might have a chance of winning but plays it too safe. But partly this issue is solved once you beat the AI as you unlock handicaps.

New chance to get Free DLC to all regions.

Links on twitter:

https://twitter.com/NISAmerica?s=09

Ah that's nice. No idea why it was expiring before game released in first place. But glad they changed minds and gave additional access to the free DLC for those who missed out.

 

[butzopower]

Do you unlock cards from a card pool based on what line of offline quests you've finished? I just got through the third set of quests, and bought a pack, and realized all the new cards I got have secret arts. When I went to build a deck and filtered by sets, I had a new set to filter by, and all the new cards I got were in that set. If that's the case, sort of sucks I've been spending my money on packs for a limited card pool...

 

[sixteen-bit]

New chance to get Free DLC to all regions.

Links on twitter:

https://twitter.com/NISAmerica?s=09

Thanks for the heads up

 

[Loptous]

New chance to get Free DLC to all regions.

Links on twitter:

https://twitter.com/NISAmerica?s=09

Registered

Thanks!

 

[Regiruler]

Kelpie can be soooo dirrtyyyyy on any map without a ton of path changes.

 

[Refyref]

Nice of them to bring back the free DLC, missed out on it the first time.

Got the game in the mail yesterday, which is weird since it was shipped after Metroid and some other stuff, which still haven't arrived.

 

[UncleSporky]

Do you unlock cards from a card pool based on what line of offline quests you've finished? I just got through the third set of quests, and bought a pack, and realized all the new cards I got have secret arts. When I went to build a deck and filtered by sets, I had a new set to filter by, and all the new cards I got were in that set. If that's the case, sort of sucks I've been spending my money on packs for a limited card pool...

Yeah, this was very briefly touched on earlier in the thread. It's discussed in Culdcept Central's GP guide:

http://www.culdceptcentral.com/culd...evolt-guides/culdcept-revolt-guide-gp-farming

The most GP efficient way of playing through the game is to unlock standard packs, buy enough of those to be able to hold your own against the AI in most cases (typically by building a Willow or Kelpie deck), then not buying a pack again until you unlock Sleeping Gods. At this point the Rich pack pulls from all possible S/R cards and should be the focus of all your money for a long time.

 

[Regiruler]

I hope there are new items in the expansions because I think I have at least 3 of everything.

 

[UncleSporky]

Oh hey there is a new map being given away for free on the online shop now, Double Helix!

 

[Totakeke]

Took me 30 hours for the credits to roll. Seems like there's a bit of postgame. Never really played culdcept before, so it felt too much like monopoly at first due to the randomness of one bad roll screwing you very badly, and that never really goes away, but deckbuilding does mitigate it to an acceptable extent. At first I used the holy word dice fixers since invading seemed pretty difficult, after that I transitioned to Dryad based deck to quickly build up chains after I figured out how to properly invade high level lands. I used that deck to clear the last third of the main game missions.

I didn't use any resources while playing the game aside from a few rule clarifications, so I wonder close my deck is to a standard deck people use? Here's my decklist.

Gladiator 3x
King Varan 3x
Brontides 2x
Dryad 4x
Great Tusker 3x
Pixie 2x
Screamer 3x
Tiger Weta 2x
Woodfolk 4x
Drill Lance 3x
Trident 4x
Disease 2x
Exile 2x
Fly 2x
Haste 1x
Magic Bolt 2x
Manna 3x
Shatter 2x
Wind of Hope 3x

I started with Water/Air so that took me a while to assemble from buying packs.

All in all, I think the game has really solid mechanics and is fun to play constantly. It's also good that I don't get many occasions that I feel that the AI is being too dumb and giving me easy wins. I still don't like the ability to see what cards other players are holding but not read them and I'm not sure if that's a typical culdcept thing. Also, I don't know if it is simply bad translation but there are many times where cards don't work the way I expect them to.

 

[UncleSporky]

Took me 30 hours for the credits to roll. Seems like there's a bit of postgame.

The credits roll 3 times IIRC! I think you finally have access to all cards after the second time they roll.

At first I used the holy word dice fixers since invading seemed pretty difficult, after that I transitioned to Dryad based deck to quickly build up chains after I figured out how to properly invade high level lands. I used that deck to clear the last third of the main game missions.

Holy Word is less about invading and more about forcing your enemies to land on your high value lands. If you see they are within range of a Holy Word, you can cast it on them and then level up that land at the end of your turn to make it sting more, and harder for them to deal with due to the land effect. I never play without at least HW1 and 3. Those are the most useful because many maps have intersections with choices of which way to go, and your enemies could just turn a different way. Some barely have an unbroken 6 or 8 steps.

The game is less about invading and more about grabbing land and holding onto it, defending it, making others pay your tolls. Obviously play the way that works best for you but defending is often easier than attacking.

I didn't use any resources while playing the game aside from a few rule clarifications, so I wonder close my deck is to a standard deck people use? Here's my decklist.

One of the most common "builds" for a deck is 20 creatures/10 items/20 spells, it's good to stick close to that and you're pretty close.

Scrolls are very effective weapons in this game, even more so than past Culdcepts. Ignoring that land effect can be devastating. Regular base scrolls do 40 damage and that can instantly kill like ~80 unbuffed creatures out of ~240 in the game.

I notice you don't have any defensive items, that might be something to consider getting a few of. Some really high value armor you can just hold onto as soon as you get it, as a backup plan if someone lands on your space.

Your spells could use a lot of work, but I think that depends on the type of cards you have available to you. Things get crazy in the latter two card packs. I guess just think about what cards you use and which you tend not to use and why. Personally I used to run with Disease and then realized I was generally discarding it before using it, because the problem with stuff like that is you have to somehow land on that diseased creature to be able to take advantage of it. I could sooner buff one of my own creatures and benefit from it immediately. Heck your debuff might even inadvertently help out a third or fourth player other than yourself! Plus when an enemy sees a debuff on their creature they will try to fix it any way they can, including really simple steps like moving one space or replacing the card. If you buff your creature, they have to override it somehow. My favorite buffs aren't even bubble effects like that, Growth Body and Fat Body are amazing for making extremely defensible cards with high HP.

Let's see...Shatter is a good card, sometimes you need to take something out of their hand. Manna I don't think is a very good card, it's generally a pretty low amount of free money that's not going to be a huge game changer. I've already said I like the Holy Word spells so I'd say put some in. Other than that feel free to put in more of a variety of spells, you don't need 2x-4x of every card. Almost all my spells are one of a kind in my deck. I recommend Prophecy if you can get it, you can choose what type of card you want, creature/item/spell which is awesome for getting what you need.

I still don't like the ability to see what cards other players are holding but not read them and I'm not sure if that's a typical culdcept thing. Also, I don't know if it is simply bad translation but there are many times where cards don't work the way I expect them to.

In old Culdcepts you couldn't even see a list of what other players had, you just had to memorize it based on what you saw briefly when their hand came up, and think, "man did they have any armor or not...?" So this is way better. I think it adds more to the strategy, being able to take that into account.

The games typically have a bit bad translation in one or more aspects but you learn what things mean over time. Like, one card says Neutralizes: Attacks First, and you have to learn that "neutralizes" means "cards with this effect deal no damage," and not just that it means they don't get to attack first. Stuff like that. You'll pick it up.

 

[Regiruler]

Tot, did you not do any of the sidequests? 30 hours seems really low.

 

[UncleSporky]

I recommend not doing the sidequests, there are just so many and there are already tons of story missions. The faster you progress the main story, the more you unlock new types of cards you couldn't even get before.

I'm going back and cleaning up sidequests now.

 

[Totakeke]

The credits roll 3 times IIRC! I think you finally have access to all cards after the second time they roll.

Yeah seems like it. I haven't been saving any G since I wanted to experiment, but I guess I can just buy the Rich packs now.

Holy Word is less about invading and more about forcing your enemies to land on your high value lands. If you see they are within range of a Holy Word, you can cast it on them and then level up that land at the end of your turn to make it sting more, and harder for them to deal with due to the land effect. I never play without at least HW1 and 3. Those are the most useful because many maps have intersections with choices of which way to go, and your enemies could just turn a different way. Some barely have an unbroken 6 or 8 steps.

Yeah, I used holy word to force opponents to land on my tiles since taking out their tiles wasn't really working in the beginning. However after a while I found that strategy to be a bit too inconsistent since one opponent can be too far in the lead and having no invasion strategy made my game plan pretty weak if I fall behind early.

The game is less about invading and more about grabbing land and holding onto it, defending it, making others pay your tolls. Obviously play the way that works best for you but defending is often easier than attacking.

The deck I posted is pretty good at establishing and building up early and invading later so I'm pretty happy with it right now.

One of the most common "builds" for a deck is 20 creatures/10 items/20 spells, it's good to stick close to that and you're pretty close.

Scrolls are very effective weapons in this game, even more so than past Culdcepts. Ignoring that land effect can be devastating. Regular base scrolls do 40 damage and that can instantly kill like ~80 unbuffed creatures out of ~240 in the game.

I tried early game scrolls, but they only do 30-40 and sometimes with crits, any defensive item could easily nullify it so I threw them all out and never looked back. I did see some opponents doing like 90-100 penetrate damage with scrolls though and I don't really have those yet I think.

I notice you don't have any defensive items, that might be something to consider getting a few of. Some really high value armor you can just hold onto as soon as you get it, as a backup plan if someone lands on your space.

My defense is mainly through using support creatures like Dryad, Woodfolk, Pixie, and Brontides. It's much more flexible to sacrifice creatures than using defense items, I've been burnt having too many items on hand before, especially since defensive ones tend to require your opponent to come attack you to use them. It's also why I have a higher creature count than other decks. Seems to work pretty well so far.

Your spells could use a lot of work, but I think that depends on the type of cards you have available to you. Things get crazy in the latter two card packs. I guess just think about what cards you use and which you tend not to use and why. Personally I used to run with Disease and then realized I was generally discarding it before using it, because the problem with stuff like that is you have to somehow land on that diseased creature to be able to take advantage of it. I could sooner buff one of my own creatures and benefit from it immediately. Heck your debuff might even inadvertently help out a third or fourth player other than yourself! Plus when an enemy sees a debuff on their creature they will try to fix it any way they can, including really simple steps like moving one space or replacing the card. If you buff your creature, they have to override it somehow. My favorite buffs aren't even bubble effects like that, Growth Body and Fat Body are amazing for making extremely defensible cards with high HP.

So far Disease is mainly for me to set up Exile. Screamer sets up Exile too. Exile doesn't always work, but when it does, it just swings the tempo so much away from the player so I haven't been bothered to remove it. Sometimes I'm exiling a creature on a leveled up green land at the start at my turn, then use my Dryad to jump into it at the end of my turn and that's such a good combo when it works. It might be pretty bad against human players though since I've only been playing against AI so far. Sometimes there's a debuff/buff on a tile but I can't use exile on it, don't know why yet. It says exile works with no summoning conditions but I have no idea what that means.

Let's see...Shatter is a good card, sometimes you need to take something out of their hand. Manna I don't think is a very good card, it's generally a pretty low amount of free money that's not going to be a huge game changer. I've already said I like the Holy Word spells so I'd say put some in. Other than that feel free to put in more of a variety of spells, you don't need 2x-4x of every card. Almost all my spells are one of a kind in my deck. I recommend Prophecy if you can get it, you can choose what type of card you want, creature/item/spell which is awesome for getting what you need.

Hmm, Manna is mainly for early game acceleration and late game when I just need a tiny bit to push through the goal. If I have Dryads in my opening hand, usually I can put down like 3-4 creatures on tiles even before I finish my first lap, and then move them on the second lap. I can see it being replaced though. I might replace it with Squeeze and put more card draw in. I will go and re-explore the spell pool though.

In old Culdcepts you couldn't even see a list of what other players had, you just had to memorize it based on what you saw briefly when their hand came up, and think, "man did they have any armor or not...?" So this is way better. I think it adds more to the strategy, being able to take that into account.

Ah I see. I wish they would go all the way though, memorizing cards doesn't make the game more enjoyable and you have time limits in multiplayer anyway.

The games typically have a bit bad translation in one or more aspects but you learn what things mean over time. Like, one card says Neutralizes: Attacks First, and you have to learn that "neutralizes" means "cards with this effect deal no damage," and not just that it means they don't get to attack first. Stuff like that. You'll pick it up.

Yeah. I already mentioned Exile sometimes not working with buffs/debuffs. Neutralize is inconsistent for me as well. Neutralize First Attack seems to work with creatures with first attack, but not with creatures with first attack equipping items with first attack. And then I'm also not sure how Neutralize MHP 40 or lower is determined. Is it determined pre buffs? Post buffs? I think I've seen situations that go both ways.

Thanks a lot for the reply and recommendations.

Tot, did you not do any of the sidequests? 30 hours seems really low.

I did all of the sidequests until the last main story chapter (before first credits), where I only completed a third of them. My deck felt good enough by then to go all the way so I just did.

 

[UncleSporky]

Sometimes there's a debuff/buff on a tile but I can't use exile on it, don't know why yet. It says exile works with no summoning conditions but I have no idea what that means.

It only works on creatures that don't also require owning land (like, 2 greens required etc.) or sacrificing a card. In other words you can't exile the really powerful, significant stuff. Like Kelpie and Old Willow for example.

Hmm, Manna is mainly for early game acceleration and late game when I just need a tiny bit to push through the goal. If I have Dryads in my opening hand, usually I can put down like 3-4 creatures on tiles even before I finish my first lap, and then move them on the second lap. I can see it being replaced though. I might replace it with Squeeze and put more card draw in. I will go and re-explore the spell pool though.

Generally no one should be out of money placing cards in the first two laps or so. Most cards are cheap enough to play, and you get at least 30g per turn anyway. Late game Manna can be a bit better but there are still nicer options. One I use is Drain Magic, which steals 30% of someone's magic for 80g (so, use it on someone at 240 or higher). Even if you can't get much profit from it you're at least depriving them of 30% of their funds, and if you do catch someone saving up to level up a late game land, you can get a ton all at once.

Yeah. I already mentioned Exile sometimes not working with buffs/debuffs. Neutralize is inconsistent for me as well. Neutralize First Attack seems to work with creatures with first attack, but not with creatures with first attack equipping items with first attack. And then I'm also not sure how Neutralize MHP 40 or lower is determined. Is it determined pre buffs? Post buffs? I think I've seen situations that go both ways.

I think essentially, abilities written on cards apply to base creatures only. So yes, neutralize first attack works on creatures with first attack but not if they add the effect via a card. Neutralize MHP 40 or lower works on creatures that are already that way before buffs. Scrolls penetrate land effect but not armor (which adds to the green bar and not the red bar).

 

[Pepboy]

I don't think you have ever been able to inspect your opponent's cards. You could do see their hand when they play, but that is it.

Just a heads up, found out today that if you touch their name on lower screen in combat, you can see the name and type of each card. But not specifically what the card does. I think the list doesn't display by default for those that prefer the classic style of not seeing it.

 

[TwiztidElf]

AU release tomorrow. Can't wait.

 

[Pepboy]

AU release tomorrow. Can't wait.

It's worth the wait. I can easily see myself enjoying this game for a long time, I feel like I'm barely scratching the surface ~10-12 hours in.

I just learned (from the launch trailer) that

Spoiler

You can upgrade cards?! I don't remember that in the PS2 version and I am so excited for additional customization.

 

[Regiruler]

Yeah seems like it. I haven't been saving any G since I wanted to experiment, but I guess I can just buy the Rich packs now.



Yeah, I used holy word to force opponents to land on my tiles since taking out their tiles wasn't really working in the beginning. However after a while I found that strategy to be a bit too inconsistent since one opponent can be too far in the lead and having no invasion strategy made my game plan pretty weak if I fall behind early.



The deck I posted is pretty good at establishing and building up early and invading later so I'm pretty happy with it right now.



I tried early game scrolls, but they only do 30-40 and sometimes with crits, any defensive item could easily nullify it so I threw them all out and never looked back. I did see some opponents doing like 90-100 penetrate damage with scrolls though and I don't really have those yet I think.



My defense is mainly through using support creatures like Dryad, Woodfolk, Pixie, and Brontides. It's much more flexible to sacrifice creatures than using defense items, I've been burnt having too many items on hand before, especially since defensive ones tend to require your opponent to come attack you to use them. It's also why I have a higher creature count than other decks. Seems to work pretty well so far.



So far Disease is mainly for me to set up Exile. Screamer sets up Exile too. Exile doesn't always work, but when it does, it just swings the tempo so much away from the player so I haven't been bothered to remove it. Sometimes I'm exiling a creature on a leveled up green land at the start at my turn, then use my Dryad to jump into it at the end of my turn and that's such a good combo when it works. It might be pretty bad against human players though since I've only been playing against AI so far. Sometimes there's a debuff/buff on a tile but I can't use exile on it, don't know why yet. It says exile works with no summoning conditions but I have no idea what that means.



Hmm, Manna is mainly for early game acceleration and late game when I just need a tiny bit to push through the goal. If I have Dryads in my opening hand, usually I can put down like 3-4 creatures on tiles even before I finish my first lap, and then move them on the second lap. I can see it being replaced though. I might replace it with Squeeze and put more card draw in. I will go and re-explore the spell pool though.



Ah I see. I wish they would go all the way though, memorizing cards doesn't make the game more enjoyable and you have time limits in multiplayer anyway.



Yeah. I already mentioned Exile sometimes not working with buffs/debuffs. Neutralize is inconsistent for me as well. Neutralize First Attack seems to work with creatures with first attack, but not with creatures with first attack equipping items with first attack. And then I'm also not sure how Neutralize MHP 40 or lower is determined. Is it determined pre buffs? Post buffs? I think I've seen situations that go both ways.

Thanks a lot for the reply and recommendations.



I did all of the sidequests until the last main story chapter (before first credits), where I only completed a third of them. My deck felt good enough by then to go all the way so I just did.

I'm at 50 hours and only in the second quest cluster.

Did you keep the guide on? I make some stupid math mistakes sometimes.

 

[Loptous]

Terrormire is wrecking me
3 out of 4 times. He made a reversal in the last 3 turns and won within a 100 points margin. :|

Also, is there a way to quick reset the game?

 

[Regiruler]

Terrormire is wrecking me
3 out of 4 times. He made a reversal in the last 3 turns and won within a 100 points margin. :|

Also, is there a way to quick reset the game?

The first encounter with him? I don't know about any of his other fights.

He made a comback the first time I challenged him but I was able to pretty squarely beat him the second. IIRC you need to be aggressive? His deck is pretty much all reds.

 

[Totakeke]

I'm at 50 hours and only in the second quest cluster.

Did you keep the guide on? I make some stupid math mistakes sometimes.

I think the second chapter you're talking about is the final chapter before the first credit roll. The guides turn themselves off eventually, but yeah, I used the guides until I could recognize most of the cards and the realized that the guide doesn't necessarily give you the right longer term strategy.

Terrormire is wrecking me
3 out of 4 times. He made a reversal in the last 3 turns and won within a 100 points margin. :|

Also, is there a way to quick reset the game?

After you play some turns, a white flag appears at the bottom of the screen. You can press and hold down on that to quit the game.



I'm getting wrecked a few quests into the first post-game chapter because someone's deck stacks up 30 damage direct damage spells, making my lands way too vulnerable. Back to the drawing board.

 

[UncleSporky]

I think forfeit only takes place when the game gets around to your next turn though. Likely faster to just reset the 3DS.

 

[Poppy]

i bought this game without knowing prettymuch anything about it and its pretty weird so far, its like if monopoly was a battle manga or something

but its kinda interesting

 

[Pepboy]

i bought this game without knowing prettymuch anything about it and its pretty weird so far, its like if monopoly was a battle manga or something

but its kinda interesting

Glad to have you in the thread! Let us know how it goes or if you run into questions. The game has some great depth that unfolds over time, imo.

I think forfeit only takes place when the game gets around to your next turn though. Likely faster to just reset the 3DS.

If you forfeit, you still get GP for new cards. Not as many as if you won, but usually a decent chunk like 1000 or so. That's why forfeit takes a few turns to appear, I don't think they wanted you to forfeit grind or something.

I guess on the other hand resetting keeps your record spotless... But I think losing is a pretty natural result in this game, from time to time.

 

[Loptous]

The first encounter with him? I don't know about any of his other fights.

He made a comback the first time I challenged him but I was able to pretty squarely beat him the second. IIRC you need to be aggressive? His deck is pretty much all reds.

Yeah
Switched to a full water deck and finally beat him after a total of 6 battles. It's been smooth sailing since then.

After you play some turns, a white flag appears at the bottom of the screen. You can press and hold down on that to quit the game.

If you forfeit, you still get GP for new cards. Not as many as if you won, but usually a decent chunk like 1000 or so. That's why forfeit takes a few turns to appear, I don't think they wanted you to forfeit grind or something.

Not really what I have in mind, since it's mostly for when I have an unfortunate first turn (no creature/bad first die throw) but thanks. Guess I'll just have to resign to quit and relaunch the game.

 

[Regiruler]

Yeah
Switched to a full water deck and finally beat him after a total of 6 battles. It's been smooth sailing since then.



Not really what I have in mind, since it's mostly for when I have an unfortunate first turn (no creature/bad first die throw) but thanks. Guess I'll just have to resign to quit and relaunch the game.

Your deck shouldn't be that inconsistent that you're resetting the 3DS on a bad hand, Jesus. Put in some Foresights and Prophecys alongside your Wind of Hopes (using wind with a full hand feels icky but it's good for deck thinning).

 

[Totakeke]

They really should implement a mulligan rule for the starting hand though. Game is random enough with the dice rolls.

 

[Regiruler]

I haven't encountered a creature with more than 2 land conditions, and you should only be playing 1/2 of those across your whole deck.

Cards like Chilling Blast would be too good if there wasn't the risk of drawing them early, and if you offset the mulligan by starting with fewer cards you have advantage out the ass through gift and Winds.

 

[Totakeke]

Second credits rolling 12 hours later. Except for one mission where both opponents were using 30 direct damage spells, I pretty much stuck with the deck I posted. I went back and looked through the spell list and really didn't change much other than taking out magic blasts and disease. The spells do get much more powerful in the later sets though, I just don't have enough of them right now to consider them as significant.

Cards like Chilling Blast would be too good if there wasn't the risk of drawing them early, and if you offset the mulligan by starting with fewer cards you have advantage out the ass through gift and Winds.

That's a poor argument to make for any card in a card game. Just because you didn't draw them in your starting hand doesn't mean you won't draw them in your next few cards. There is an argument that can be made that generous mulligan rules would make certain combos far too easily achievable in card games, but Culdcept by default is a game with such high variance that I don't see a simple mulligan rule affecting it that much.

 

[GamingBird]

Guys, how is the story in this game? Is there just one ending? I'm not expecting a really good story but I love story modes and I'm wondering if the story makes sense, and the characters have personalities and are developed slightly.

Any bonds or interactions between characters?

Also, is there a easy mode I can select? Or is the story mode very hard?

 

[Pepboy]

They really should implement a mulligan rule for the starting hand though. Game is random enough with the dice rolls.

Not a bad idea, maybe we'll see something like that in a future version. Most card games have some mulligan or redrawing rules.

Guys, how is the story in this game? Is there just one ending? I'm not expecting a really good story but I love story modes and I'm wondering if the story makes sense, and the characters have personalities and are developed slightly.

Any bonds or interactions between characters?

Also, is there a easy mode I can select? Or is the story mode very hard?

I did not expect much at all going in but have been really pleasantly surprised. The world feels a bit "lived in" with interesting political complexities. You fight one enemy early on that may not really want to fight you or that may not be your enemy if the world was different. In the first 1 hour you have some loose connection to another group of characters, each of which has some personality.

But I'm only 12 hours in. Because each story map has multiple iterations (sort of like side stories?) that I have been enjoying. That's also where the variable difficulty comes in. The first time you beat a story map it is usually easiest, then you can play again against different opponents / settings / enemy decks. Which imo is usually harder.

Edit:. You also unlock free play mode very early and can choose whatever map and settings and opponents you want. In that mode as you beat npcs, you unlock handicap (variable difficulty) to make them harder. So you can scale up difficulty a lot. The base difficulty is not too bad, but not a cakewalk, but it requires you to rethink your decks and synergies. However if you abhor deck based games I'm not sure it's your best bet -- maybe watch a lets play in that case.