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Gran Turismo 6 |OT| Moon Rover The Castle

commedieu

Banned
I finally decided to boot this game up, but what the fuck is in that day one patch?! My PS3 is saying it'll take two hours to download, and it's slowing down, meaning I probably won't be able to download it any time soon. What do I miss out on if I just play the game 1.0?

Damn. I've never been mad about day one patches until this.

if you just started, the licenses/events/arcade are all there waiting for ya. I didn't update for a few days. The mercedes vision gt comes with the update.

The interior, does not.

Earlier today, the latest update introduced a “News Ticker” to deliver real-time announcements to players in the game. The News Ticker’s first big announcement confirms the BMW M4 will be updated to include a full interior view, seen in all the game’s other “Premium” cars.
-- heyy hope for interiors?
 

ruttyboy

Member
So your headlights don't actually illuminate the road surface... that's a bug right?

The game gave me my first ever lap of Ascari... in the dark... with no lights... it didn't go well.
 
Maybe all the scanning and stuff they showed in the video was just for show then. Unless they have a time machine.

They had a jank looking virtual model before the thing was built. Probably wasn't complete for the reason of the replica not being done at the time.

I finally decided to boot this game up, but what the fuck is in that day one patch?! My PS3 is saying it'll take two hours to download, and it's slowing down, meaning I probably won't be able to download it any time soon. What do I miss out on if I just play the game 1.0?

Damn. I've never been mad about day one patches until this.

Skip the patch then... download it later.
 

Celcius

°Temp. member
What car do you recommend for the 24 minutes Lemans race? (S-level)
My Toyota 7 doesn't have headlights and my Toyota Minolta has to stop for gas after every 2 laps (although I've gotten 4th with the car). My maxed out Hyura doesn't handle well enough. Is there a better car for this race than the Minolta or do I just need to try harder? A race car that could do three laps without stopping would really help...

edit: Cleared it with my Minolta :)
 
You are so close to understanding how this works but you still have the most critical aspect backwards.

I want to say thank you for continuing this discussion too because I have learned a lot re-reading the basics and looking up new articles. Coincidentally my wife asked yesterday about why ABS is good and how it works so this has been a good primer. Hahaha

Ok, static friction does not generate heat and a free rolling tire with no turning, hard breaking or accelerating is definitely in a state of static friction. I triple checked this across numerous articles in tire physics just to make sure. If splitting hairs is necessary, then yes there probably is a very minute amount of dynamic friction but it is unsubstantial and not the source of heat in a free rolling static situation.

Tires heat up when rolling forward due to the deformation of the tire at the contact patch. The tire will always be a tiny bit flat at the contact patch. Under-inflated tires over heat even quicker due to the extra deformation at the contact patch. This heating from deformation is through the entire tire, not just the surface. The side wall, tread and carcass are all being compressed and uncompressed across the entire diameter of the tire at the contact patch every rotation of the tire. This is why tires get hot on highways even without turns and why the Veyron's tires need to be special, to handle the insane heat build up at those speeds. Heat in this instance of static friction is not happening because the rubber is rubbing against the road like in dynamic friction, but because rubber is rubbing against rubber as it stretched and compresses throughout the entire tire as it rotates.

Ok on to slip and dynamic friction scenarios. All tires have an optimal slip angle. Old narrow treaded 60's era F1 cars, this angle was pretty large. Hence the bad ass slides. Modern F1 cars, it is much smaller. You primarily control the slip angle with the wheel, obviously, but also with the brake and gas to shift weight forward and backward. Unless you are overheating your tires to an extreme level, any minute, especially "microscopic" temperature fluctuations are going to have a negligible if not undetectable effect on the cornering behavior of your car. Tires out of their ideal range are going to have less potential grip, but you can still further reduce or increase their available grip through weight transfer. The hundreds if not thousands of pounds of weight you can quickly shift around through steering and pedal inputs is going to be what likely unbalances your car. How could you even determine what "microscopic" surface temperature fluctuations would be good or bad? Depending on the situation, more heat could result in more grip so less sliding, or a bit of cooling could provide more grip. This is the major flaw in your thinking. You seem to think that the unbelievably minute fluctuations of the tire surface are what primarily changes your total available grip of the friction coefficient of the contact patch, and the overall behavior of the car. Yes, of course any tire is going to have an ideal operating temperature but these are given in ranges of degrees, sometimes hundred of degrees. The range is not measured in hundredths of degrees. Yes, theoretically you could build a perfect car that drives perfectly on a perfectly uniform surface to such an extent of consistency and control of variables that variations in the handling characteristics of the car might come down to "microscopic" temperature fluctuations. Maybe in this theoretical scenario, hundredths of degrees of tire temperature fluctuations may need to be accounted for in relation to car balance.

But, these are just race cars and road cars. Hundreds and thousand of pounds of weight is constantly being redistributed to all four tires. This is the primary way the contact patch is going to change size, and the change in the contact patch size is going to be the primary variable in the friction coefficient and therefore your total available grip. This is why suspension setups have such a huge effect on handling. It is changing how the weight transfers across your car and how the tire is coming in contact with the roar, or its contact patch. This is why we have active suspension for improved cornering, not active tire heating.
I think we're making some progress here. You are misinterpreting what I'm saying (possibly not your fault, I may have been unclear) - you are suggesting that I think heat actually initiates slip from a stable state, being the primary cause of all grip loss, and that isn't what I'm trying to say. Grip loss is initiated by unbalancing the car, either from gradients on the track itself or from driver inputs, not heat. We agree on this. Overall tyre temperature influences the overall grip level, and can be good and bad, hence the reason for tyre blankets, and warmup laps. We also agree on this. And in a 'dynamic' state of slip, heat directly affects grip. I believe we agree on this too. I keep mentioning that heat and slip are directly connected, and you have taken that to mean I think heat causes all grip loss, and I'm definitely not saying that.

Where we differ, and continue to do so, is that you think slip/a spin can occur with no major fluctuation in temperature, that temperature doesn't need to be involved.

Let me address a few things first - this has been mostly guesswork from me, so if the many physics articles you found want to call a rolling tyre 'static friction', then fair enough. But my point is that the transition to 'dynamic' when there is slip involved has to be seamless. It's not just gripgripgrip and then suddenly there is an obvious slip angle with oversteer or understeer. The instant before it was obvious to the driver, it was happening. So if we can describe a tyre rolling along a straight as having 100% grip (I don't think it would - at any decent speed it would be fluctuating below, maybe between 99% and 100%), and your TTO into the next corner with some nice slip angle could be described as say... 80% grip, then what was happening a split second before at 85% grip? It was a lesser slip angle, but still dynamic. What about before that, at 90%? Or what about at 98.99%, before the driver even felt any difference? It would still be described as dynamic. It all happens in an instant - to the driver it might have felt like 100% grip and suddenly 80% grip, but when you focus down to the moment of transition to watch the grip level change, there is no point where it is suddenly dynamic. It was dynamic immediately, on a minute scale, and ramps up. Everything starts small.

Now to the key point about heat:
How could you even determine what "microscopic" surface temperature fluctuations would be good or bad? Depending on the situation, more heat could result in more grip so less sliding, or a bit of cooling could provide more grip. This is the major flaw in your thinking. You seem to think that the unbelievably minute fluctuations of the tire surface are what primarily changes your total available grip of the friction coefficient of the contact patch, and the overall behavior of the car.
When I describe 'microscopic surface temperature fluctuations', I am referring to the size of the layer, not the amount of temperature fluctuation. The fluctuations can be very large, but across a microscopic layer of rubber. In a violent slip that resulted in an instant spin, the temperature fluctuation on the surface would have been massive, and it would have been over before any part of the rubber deeper than this microscopic layer had time to heat up. You can get very high temperatures on a very focused point of the tyre surface, and that is absolutely directly affecting the grip. I am not saying that the fluctuations are the cause of the loss of grip in the first place, just that they are there, instantaneously, just like slip is there, instantaneously, as I described above (at 98.99% grip, for example). I say again... the cause is the unbalancing of the car, we're agreed on that. But the instant that has happened, you are getting slip and temperature changes, no matter how small. The speed at which the slip and temperature ramps up is determined by how violently the car is unbalanced in the first place.

It seems that you don't think this is reasonable because you believe temperature changes only happen at a clear separate phase, after the slip has been going a while, and that you can have slip without any big ramping up of temperature:
To go back one last time to why TTO happens, you snap off the throttle which creates a rapid transfer of weight forward, reducing the contact patch and potential static and dynamic friction at the rear tire, while simultaneously doing the opposite to the front. Temperature has nothing to do with why you spin. Your tires don't need to be hot, or they can be nearing over heating , it doesn't matter. The principles of TTO remains exactly the same.

I don't agree. If there is slip, there is heat, and the heat would have played a key part in the inability to save the spin. You also gave a wet track as an example of where you can slip with no temperature ramping up, which I contested - F1 drivers can heat their tyres in full wet conditions by simply weaving (to cause slip), because parts of the rubber are still touching the track. It seems to me that the only time there would be no ramping up of temperature on the tyre surface in a slide is when aquaplaning, or on ice - two instances where there is no direct rubber contact with the track.

So to bring it back to your original complaint:
GT, it seems that you can over heat your tires in an instant, and dramatically reduce the available grip for a few moments afterward.
My suggestion remains the same - the display represents some kind of surface temperature, whether it's a microscopic layer or slightly deeper, we don't know. When you upset the balance of the car to the point where tyres are slipping significantly, you are bound to get this kind of large temperature fluctuation on the surface (even though the rest of the tyre is unaffected, hence the immediate return to normal if the slip is very brief). If the slip and heat is maintained for a while longer, it will penetrate deeper into the rubber, and the surface temperature will be retained for slightly longer, long enough to have had a detrimental effect on overall grip for the next few corners.
 

Celcius

°Temp. member
The only career events that I haven't golded are the nascar and go-kart championships. I might come back to the go karts someday, but any tips for nascar?
 

TTG

Member
I like Ascari and I'm going to learn it, but for Christ's sake race circuit designers! You can't have a long ass track where every corner looks exactly the same. There have to be some defining features, even if you don't have the geography or landmarks working for you, break up the sectors in a way. It's like Cape Ring all over again, if it wasn't for the 15 minute race around Ascari, I don't think I would even try. The intrack at Indianapolis is more conducive to quick memorization and that thing may as well be a parking lot.
 

nasanu

Banned
F1 drivers can heat their tyres in full wet conditions by simply weaving (to cause slip):

the display represents some kind of surface temperature, whether it's a microscopic layer or slightly deeper, we don't know

On your first quoted point, the weaving actually does nothing. The forces at low speed are just not enough. You can confirm this with the recent infrared F1 TV shots.

And the tyre gauge is a measure of both internal and surface tyre temperature. Spin the wheels and the gauge will flash over with heat then return to normal. Abuse the tyres for a few laps and they will over heat internally resulting in a more white tone to the gauge.

And just to add to your discussion, a significant amount of tyre heat on a racing car comes from heat soak from the brakes spreading through the metal rims. But I highly doubt GT6 models this and if any PC sim did there would be a press release about it as they love to boast about everything.
 

ito007

Member
The only career events that I haven't golded are the nascar and go-kart championships. I might come back to the go karts someday, but any tips for nascar?

i second this nascar bit. I have been retrying the nascar races in career mode over and over again. every time it always ends in me dead last because the driver behind me ends up knocking me and sends me spinning. I'm frustrated to say the least. so any tips? whenever i try to be more conservative i end up just being nowhere near the pack, and when i'm aggressive, it sends me flying. i can race the track just fine. it's that ai though
 
what do you guys think of the obutto ozone vs. the fantatec csl?

The obutto seems like it's more ideal for a setup you never intended to move. I own the Fanatec and aside from putting it together, it's great because I can pick up and move it without any issues. I also know it's incredibly sturdy, I think the Fanatec supports up to like 450 lbs.
 

The Stig

Member
Got the game yesterday. Very happy so far. Managed to get the 15th anniversary edition from gamestop as new. Guess not enough people pre-ordered.
 
On your first quoted point, the weaving actually does nothing. The forces at low speed are just not enough. You can confirm this with the recent infrared F1 TV shots.
I'm struggling to find footage of a warmup/weaving sequence with the thermal camera - do you have a link? Either way I'm not sure it would be very conclusive. They've only recently started using that camera, during a season where they don't want to push the tyres early on. They are weaving less aggressively in warmup than they used to, so it might not be showing up anyway. We also don't know how accurate/responsive the thermal display is, or how it is calibrated. It seems strange for the drivers to want to weave if it does nothing, and even more strange that the large team of engineers (who have actual data rather than a basic visual reference) allow/ask them to do what is a potentially dangerous procedure. The thermal camera would be useless in the wet too, where I believe heat is still being generated at the contact patch during slip, because the water would be influencing the display.

And the tyre gauge is a measure of both internal and surface tyre temperature. Spin the wheels and the gauge will flash over with heat then return to normal. Abuse the tyres for a few laps and they will over heat internally resulting in a more white tone to the gauge.
You're describing it in a different way but we both mean the same thing. It doesn't make sense for one display to show surface temps sometimes and internal temps at other times. It is likely be a single measure of surface temp data all the time, with internal temperatures being simulated (and having an influence) but not displayed explicitly. If you lean on the tyres for an extended time, the heat will sink deeper into the rubber, which in turn prevents the surface temperature from restoring itself as quickly - resulting in the same surface measurement showing as slightly warmer than before (yellowish or white rather than light blue), as it is influenced by the internal temps.

And just to add to your discussion, a significant amount of tyre heat on a racing car comes from heat soak from the brakes spreading through the metal rims.
You're right, but it's not all that relevant to the discussion, which is about what is happening moment to moment on the tyre surface during a slip situation like lift-off oversteer. Brakes build temperature internally quite slowly compared to the temperature spikes on the surface during slip. The comment about PC sims was pretty unnecessary.
 

Toxa

Junior Member
it's time

http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showthread.php?p=93886251#post93886251

AndHereWeGo.gif
 
Oh come on!! I did the 24minutes of the Nurb race last night, I decided to go with a tuned Aventador LP700 on medium slicks, no assists. Saw that it was starting to rain right on the first lap, screw that, I can handle that shit. The slicks were perfectly fine up until 70% or so of surface water, by then we were finishing up our first lap, I was in second, first place dived into the pits. Fuck that, knowing a GT game, there is no way the rain will last the entire race. So ahead I went on slicks in now 100% surface water by the time I hit the Nordschliefe. Oh yeah, it is now pitch black too. This was a nightmare. The headlights illuminated nothing. I was basically driving on memory alone, in the wet on slicks. It was intense to say the least. But I survived and kept a 25 second lead over the AI as I was nearing the end of the lap. Day light started to come, rain letting up, plenty of life left in my RM tires, no way I am pitting now, only one lap left. The Aventador started coming alive as the track dried, on the edge through every corner, 45 seconds ahead of the AI, going to finish this probably a minute ahead.. put putttt. brrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr.. OUT OF GAS!! Fuuuuuuuuuuu. Totally forgot to even pay attention to that I was so engrossed by the track conditions and tire wear. Guess you have to pit at least once no matter what. I think I will start the race on intermediates and pit once for RS tires going into the last lap.

But yeah, it seems PD fucked up again with wet tires. They are barely different than slicks in the wet and the AI seems to go just as fast in the dry with their full wet tires still on as they did with racing slicks.
 
Does the steering lock change work on the DFGT?

According to GT Planet, it works on some, but not all, I have tried and I have no idea how to tell if its worked or not :(

Just busted the USB cable on my Driving Force GT. Feel like shit right now.

Sorry to hear that :(


*--------------------


So the game finally clicked with me, yesterday I decided to turn off the driving line, drive with almost no assists on, only ABS 3 and steering setting to +7, dont know if thats supposed to be better for Wheels (Logi DFGT), and turn the HUD off.

It was so damn fun, played 3 5 minute races in the Shelby Cobra, damn car is unforgiving if you steer too quickly or brake in turns, but its so damn fun to see the car change gears in a straight line, the whole chassis just jumps.
 

televator

Member
if you just started, the licenses/events/arcade are all there waiting for ya. I didn't update for a few days. The mercedes vision gt comes with the update.

The interior, does not.

-- heyy hope for interiors?

I'm also hoping for more second party manufacturer/tuner cars. They have one Mugen Honda car. One, and it ain't even the legendary beast Mugen RR... this must be corrected.
 

Bradf50

Member
After pre-ordering then cancelling to pre-ordering, then cancelling again, I've decided to pick it up today. Looking forward to playing it later!
 
Is there anyway or any website where I can see all cars the game has for sale within a range of PP. For example, I want to see every car available from PP450 to 500.

I dont like the recommended car section because its too small.

Im using this website http://www.kudosprime.com/gt6/ but there is no way to just show a range of PP.

Thanks.
 
And here the last comparison of graphics and sounds between Gran Turismo 6 and Gran Turismo 5. Its a lap at High Speed Ring circuit with Red Bull X2010.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eVMC8wLD2qw

I hope you've liked the comparison that I've uploaded these days. A greeting, guys

HOLY SHIT MY EARS ARE BLEEDING. What the fuck did they do to the fucking sound? WOW! THAT'S THE WORST I've ever heard in a fucking 21st century game.
 

ruttyboy

Member
The number of complaints about "broken" cars is getting funny.

What do you mean 'broken'?

According to GT Planet, it works on some, but not all, I have tried and I have no idea how to tell if its worked or not :(

While still in a menu (so there's no FFB coming through), set it to one of the modes less than 900 degrees, then turn the wheel with minimum force. If it's worked, as you continue to turn you will suddenly hit an increase in resistance from the motors. You can push past it but that resistance is the end of whichever degree setting you have activated. Well, that's how it works on my G27 anyway, can't see why it would be any different.
 
So after finally getting gold on the GTR mission I want to know how reflective is the stock GTR in that mission of the real world model. Multiple times when doing that challenge I would try to corner or break too hard and the suspension wouldn't be able to handle the weight transfer and you would be able to see on the tire hud that one of them would be completely red and have no traction.

I've been told that the GTR is supposed to be a feat of engineering and design. So is it just a limitation of real world physics that the suspension on it can't keep up? Is it just GT's nature of being a video game that lets you install a "sports hard" suspension that instantly doubles the force of the suspension and makes the car handle so much better?
 
HOLY SHIT MY EARS ARE BLEEDING. What the fuck did they do to the fucking sound? WOW! THAT'S THE WORST I've ever heard in a fucking 21st century game.
You could argue that they can make it sound however they want, as it's not a real car. But in terms of estimated specs, I guess the closest sound we can compare it to is a 2014 F1 engine, which sounds pretty horrendous too:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h9mWJ_jpULc 0:55...

Interesting how much the sound has changed between GT5 and GT6... GT5's is cleaner, but sounds like a vacuum... cleaner... GT6 is more raspy and aggressive, but a considerably higher tone for some reason, which makes it more annoying at the top end. It starts to sound better towards the end of the clip though. I think it's a slight improvement, despite it making my ears bleed too.

The funniest thing about the video is seeing the hilarious hands from GT5 which many people defended here, with the thumbs on the wrong side of the wheel. Those thumbs almost put me off running cockpit view entirely in GT5. It looks ridiculous. I'm so glad they fixed that.
 
But yeah, it seems PD fucked up again with wet tires. They are barely different than slicks in the wet and the AI seems to go just as fast in the dry with their full wet tires still on as they did with racing slicks.


the tyres are fine, polyphony have enabled the low (lol) grip driver aid for the babies in career mode

go to arcade or free run and try and match your wet tyre time on slicks with real grip selected / 100% water

it's impossible

it's a shit load of fun but they're 25-30 secs slower per lap on a 2 mile track.

low grip needs to join sfr and piss off.
 
the tyres are fine, polyphony have enabled the low (lol) grip driver aid for the babies in career mode

go to arcade or free run and try and match your wet tyre time on slicks with real grip selected / 100% water

it's impossible

it's a shit load of fun but they're 25-30 secs slower per lap on a 2 mile track.

low grip needs to join sfr and piss off.

low grip needs

I'll test arcade mode. I wasn't saying slicks were faster in 100% water, they just were very useful up until 70%ish and at that point why bother with intermediates. I would imagine slicks should be worthless at anything above 15-20% water.

Edit: You sure "low grip" is on in S class races? All the other tire and fuel stuff turn on for those races.
 
What do you mean 'broken'?



While still in a menu (so there's no FFB coming through), set it to one of the modes less than 900 degrees, then turn the wheel with minimum force. If it's worked, as you continue to turn you will suddenly hit an increase in resistance from the motors. You can push past it but that resistance is the end of whichever degree setting you have activated. Well, that's how it works on my G27 anyway, can't see why it would be any different.

Thanks, I will test this out tonight!
 

Sorc3r3r

Member
Just done the International A 15 min, challenge on the Nur.
So intense, i'm on life support XD.

My poor IS F TC had to give everything to beat the F1 GTR, the A.I. even if not aggressive is always there waiting for a mistake.

Finally some good challenge, as much as i like the new driving simulation, i need some adrenaline, i seek adrenaline to continue to play race after race.

Unrelated, but i love the Ascari circuit, to me it's the best new addiction to the game and will become my test track.
 

msdstc

Incredibly Naive
The obutto seems like it's more ideal for a setup you never intended to move. I own the Fanatec and aside from putting it together, it's great because I can pick up and move it without any issues. I also know it's incredibly sturdy, I think the Fanatec supports up to like 450 lbs.

This is currently my hang up... that being said it still looks like it would take up a ton of space, whereas a stand could fold up and be put away. The obutto I would probably just use as a gaming pc set up anyways, not sure how practicle that would be, but it has a desk built right onto it.
 
the tyres are fine, polyphony have enabled the low (lol) grip driver aid for the babies in career mode

go to arcade or free run and try and match your wet tyre time on slicks with real grip selected / 100% water

it's impossible

it's a shit load of fun but they're 25-30 secs slower per lap on a 2 mile track.

low grip needs to join sfr and piss off.


Hahaha, holy shit. PD, wtf were you thinking? Arcade mode is where all the realism is at?

Just did a quick test on my lunch break. In the rainmasters IA event at Spa with 100% surface water with Racing Soft tire in the Ferrari 458 (no assists, ABS 1) I managed a 2:37. I then went to arcade mode and put on the real grip setting (which used to only include track edges not wet conditions in GT5 right?) instantly I knew the racing softs were a bust. It would have been over a minute and a half slower. No grip, as you would expect with racing slicks on in the wet. Ok, so that is that. A-spec mode rain racing is bullshit. You have to do online or arcade races. weeeeeeeeeee. Now the fun part. I threw on full wets in arcade at Spa....drum roll 2:45. So in A-spec the racing softs are faster than full wets in arcade. That is how skewed the grip level is for wet racing in A-spec. That is so stupid. The full wets on real settings in Arcade are fantastic by the way. basically stay on slicks in A-spec if you want any sort of wet racing challenge.

Ugh.

TL;DR
Spa in Ferrari 458 no assists (ABS 1)
IA Event 100% Rain Racing Softs : 2:37
Arcade Mode with Real Wet/Track Edge Grip Enabled Full Wets: 2:45
 
Spa in Ferrari 458 no assists (ABS 1)
IA Event 100% Rain Racing Softs : 2:37
Arcade Mode with Real Wet/Track Edge Grip Enabled Full Wets: 2:45
Wow, I didn't know it was that different - I haven't reached a wet race in the career yet. I had tried weather and different tyres out in Arcade, and thought it was pretty reasonable, so I was surprised when you said they barely made any difference in career.
 
Wow, I didn't know it was that different - I haven't reached a wet race in the career yet. I had tried weather and different tyres out in Arcade, and thought it was pretty reasonable, so I was surprised when you said they barely made any difference in career.

Yeah it was crazy. I figured it was like when GT5 launched and it was a genuine error on their part that they later fixed. At launch RS tires were unequivocally faster than full wets in any mode. In GT6 A-spec, driving with slicks was so easy even bearable at 100% wet. I also haven't touched arcade because why would I want arcade settings? Little did I know they tacked on "wet & track edge" to the drop down menu which used to only be a track edge settings. I remember we had to do online lobbies for the "full physics" in GT5 but they eventually fixed that. Now it seems the physics are even more obscured across the different modes.
 
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