High end console switch boxes?

DarienA

The black man everyone at Activision can agree on
We've decided in the game room that while we love everything feeding into the surround sound system we DON'T like all the cables running back and forth to it... in looking around for a high end console switch box we decided there were a few things we wanted:

Lighted switches to let us know which selection was active.
Customizable Labels
Remote Control

Well in looking around we couldn't find anything that had all 3 but the closest things we DID find was Pelican's $99 Universal System Selector Pro, 8 inputs, digital output, ethernet and lighted tags with multiple tag options(not customizable though, just snap in the one you want, can't create own labels).

Anybody have this one? Are there any other choices out there?
 
Do you want enough bandwidth to go progressive?

Ignoring that aspect is silly IMO.
 
DaCocoBrova said:
Do you want enough bandwidth to go progressive?

Ignoring that aspect is silly IMO.

Hasn't even been a consideration for us, silly or not.

I still tend to view progressive as a "hardcore" gamer need, and even though I've got all the consoles with a host of games I don't consider myself hardcore. High-end Picture quality isn't really a driving factor in this purchase decision.
 
It should be if you plan on making this a hub for display devices.

I still tend to view progressive as a "hardcore" gamer need, and even though I've got all the consoles with a host of games I don't consider myself hardcore.

:lol Yet you're in a gaming forum most of every day. Ok...

Either way, here's an in depth review...

When it comes to component video switches you really need to watch the bandwidth. If you go with something less than 30Mhz and you watch 1080i or 720p you will start to see a loss in picture quality. The signs are reduced detail, dull color, muddiness, etc. These signs are most noticeable when you are testing the limits of HD. What I mean by that is when you are using large displays and watching programing with vivid colors (rich blues and reds). In some of my experimenting with the JVC, Sony and Recton products I have found them to introduce halos and rings in the reds and blues. These problems when not found in the Inday and Audio Authority products which I tested. I could not get the oscilloscope to work so I could not get hard numbers but the visual proof was enough for me. I did not test the Zektor product but from speaking with friends who upgraded from older AA products they say it is solid as well. I own an Inday and love it. My friend who helped in the testing owns the AA 1154. If I where to buy a new switch today, I would go with the Zektor due to its more A/V component like design. The size of the unit is the same as a receiver or DVD player so it does not look odd in a rack.

My parting shots are if the manufacture is not telling you an important detail such as the bandwith of the product it is because they don't want you to know.

Here is a test for the Pelican Pro:

I've aquired one, tested it, and fully evaluated it's design:

General Description:

The switch has 8 inputs, 7 on the rear and 1 on the front behind a door.

Each input has Y, Pr, Pb, Video, Left, Right, and S-video. Channels 1 to 3 also have Toslink and Ethernet.

The output has all of the mentioned signals, in addition to a second left and right audio output.

On the front it reads, "High Definition Component Video", however there is no other mention of this or HDTV anywhere including in the manual.

It has no IR capabilities and is controlled solely by the front panel buttons.

The unit was manufactured in China.

The paint job was slightly thin and inconsistent, but may not be noticable once installed in a home.

Inside the chassis reveals a sinlge sided PCB, and a relay based switching system. The connectors on the rear panel are vertically mounted on a rear panel PCB, and the two are joined by a tab and slot method rather than connectors.

Interestingly there is no circuitry for the ethernet. The ethernet signals are switched through a relay just like video and audio. One would think that with three ethernet jacks on the back there would be a hub inside, but not so. Switching this way would cause the unselected ethernet ports to loose their link.

It appears that the unit can be expanded to switch 8 toslink signals, but the manufacturer left out the last 5, presumably to reduce cost. Also noticed is the second audio output is wire tied to the first output, so this in effect is like adding a Y adapter in line.

Overall the build quality was that of a cheap $69 VCR, but one could expect that for the $99 retail price. The plastic front panel and door assembly operated marginally, and I would anticipate it breaking if used freqently.

Performance:

A 40MHz and 100MHz signal were passed through the switch to measure performance.

Below are the test results.

Loss (Y signal tested on channel 1)
40MHz -2.6dB
100MHz -4.6dB

Crosstalk (Agressor was Y, Victim was Pb, on channel 1)
40MHz -13dB
100MHz -10dB

The loss is bad enough that this device should be used for no greater than 480p.

However the crosstalk is bad enough that this may cause visible picture problems, even at 480p.

Picture quality:

DVD/480p OK

HDTV/1080i Softening of picture, some ghosting patterns

S-vid, Left and Right audio, Ethernet, and Toslink were not performance tested for now.
 
Check out the Keohi A/V switch comparison:

http://www.keohi.com/keohihdtv/interfaces/switches.html


Here's a few switches to consider. I prefer the Audio Authority, but if you don't have or don't care about HD, then you'll probably want to go with a cheaper one, like the Pelican you mentioned:

Audio Authority 1154

http://www.audioauthority.com/aacconsumers/1154c5577.html

Inday:

http://www.inday.com/

Zektor:

http://www.zektor.com/hds4/index.htm

JVC JX-S111:

http://www.onecall.com/PID_13498.htm
 
These are really good ones:

Key Digital 4x1 Component Video/Audio Switchbox $349
http://www.ramelectronics.net/html/comp-vid-sw.html#4x1

Zektor 4 Channel HDTV Component Video Switch with Digital Audio $299
http://www.zektor.com/hds4/index.htm

AudioAuthority Adaptive Signal-Sensing AutoSelectorTM for HDTV $194
http://www.audioauthority.com/aacconsumers/1154c5577.html

The Key Digital from RamElectronics comes with an IR remote to switch inputs. I'm weary of the auto-switch. The Zektor one does not come with a remote, but you can program your remote to switch it. RamElectronics also has a 2x1 component switcher $169 ( http://www.ramelectronics.net/html/comp-vid-sw.html#2x1 ), but it is a manual switcher.
 
DaCocoBrova said:
:lol Yet you're in a gaming forum most of every day. Ok...

True but there is a subtle difference in my videogaming requirements. While I love a whole host of games, and like to keep up with what's going on in the industry, my audio/visual needs aren't high end... You won't see me in those threads where folks complain that not all PS2 titles are running at 1040p something that all Xbox titles natively do? Hell I don't even know what the hell that shit means and if I just used the right terminology. I'm just as happy grabbing a regular RF adapter to take with me if I happen to go on vacation and want to take my console(s) with me.

Thanks for all the suggestions, looks like I've got some reading to do....
 
I was looking for a switcher just yesterday and I came across this. It's $129 on ebay which sounds reasonable. If anyone has any experience with this unit I would appreciate the feedback.

Video Storm video-storm.com CSW02 4 input 2 output component HDTV switch

7450279csw02_sm-large.gif


7450279csw02_back_panel-large.jpg
 
Sysgen said:
I was looking for a switcher just yesterday and I came across this. It's $129 on ebay which sounds reasonable. If anyone has any experience with this unit I would appreciate the feedback.

Video Storm video-storm.com CSW02 4 input 2 output component HDTV switch

7450279csw02_sm-large.gif


7450279csw02_back_panel-large.jpg

The Pelican one available around the same price certainly looks alot better, although it hasn't gotten the greatest reviews in the world. It'd be nice if the box you've mentioned had audio switching as well, although they may not be necessary for you. Afraid I haven't read any about the quality of this particular box...
 
This just dawned on me...

The topic says 'High End' switch box, but yet you don't want progressive?

*shrug*

What other 'high end' do you need?
 
Get the Audio Authoritiy one as it also handles analog, digital coax and digital optical audio inputs. Not only does it handle it, it will convert coax to optical and optical to coax. You can get it for as low as $150 if you look around. It's very highly recommended from people who own it, including myself, and people in the avsforum. Don't look for anything else. Trust me on this one; it doesn't get any better.
 
Grr, forum crashed on me or something. At any rate, I forgot to mention that the box is auto sensing so there's no need to hit any switch or use a remote. It just detects where the signal is coming from and switches to it. In case you have something that is always on, you can even set the priority of which input has priority over any other input. This box really is great. Here are some pics:

1154frontlc.jpg

1154backlc.jpg
 
Jesus, that Zektor one is nice. Still, I just can't see myself parting with $300 for a switchbox...my DVD player didn't even cost that much! I guess I'll be sticking with the piece-of-shit Madcatz one I bought at Gamestop used for $9 for the time being...
 
Yikes that Zektor one seems way over priced when the only major difference is that it has an IR sensor, but no remote with it, and it doesn't have the auto detection that the Audio Authority one does. I think the AA one at half the price is the better deal.
 
You'd think the AA ones would have come down in price by now. I've been looking at one for years now, but they never budge.

You have the specs for the AA device? I want to see if it can handle 1080i and 720p w/ no signal degredation.
 
Marty Chinn said:
Yikes that Zektor one seems way over priced when the only major difference is that it has an IR sensor, but no remote with it, and it doesn't have the auto detection that the Audio Authority one does. I think the AA one at half the price is the better deal.

Yeah, you're probably right. It's just that the Zektor one looks so much sleeker. In comparison, the AA one looks like a brick that's been painted black. Still, $150 is $150...then again, I DID buy an iPod...

Marty, you mentioned being able to find one for $150 online...could you give me some direction? I checked eBay and the ones they're selling are going for $165 with a few days left in the auction.
 
Here's a couple links

http://www.copperbox.com/lite/popinfo.php?lc_code=1154A&uneek=571165531
http://www.digitalconnection.com/products/video/1154a.asp

My friend just bought one for $150, I'll have to ask where he got it to see if it's any better of a place or deal.

DaCoco: Well $150 is down from $194 =) I've been using it with 720p and 1080i material and did some comparisons between directly hooked up to my TV and just using the switch box and I couldn't detect any noticable difference in degredation of signal quality. I'm looking for specs right now, but HD output looks great so far.

I just found a spec that says the bandwidth is 100MHz @ -3db if that helps.
 
Damn! 100mhz! That's sweet.

My only gripe is the lack of optical input/switching, unless those are TosLink ports I see...

My whole setup is optical w/ the GC being the only exception.
 
I've had the Audio Authority box for quite some time now, probably 18 months or so. No complaints here. I have my Xbox, PS2, Gamecube, and DVD player connected to it. It's nice not having to worry about pushing a button on the switch -- just power on the console I want to play and it automatically switches to that input.
 
The more I think about it, the auto sensing is nice. I'll assume those are TosLink inputs. That said, can it take an analog source (let's use the GC as an example) and convert it to digital output?

That would seal the deal for me as I would never have to physically get up and hit my 3 switcher just to play another console.
 
I think you guys have made a believer out of me. Unfortunately, it will probably have to wait until my next paycheck...this one is all about a MAS arcade stick.
 
this one is all about a MAS arcade stick.

People still buy those? I thought that the waning popularity of the SF franchise would've hurt their sales.
 
DaCocoBrova said:
People still buy those? I thought that the waning popularity of the SF franchise would've hurt their sales.

There ARE other fighting series besides SF, ya know. All fighting games are more intuitive with a stick in my opinion.
 
DaCocoBrova said:
The more I think about it, the auto sensing is nice. I'll assume those are TosLink inputs. That said, can it take an analog source (let's use the GC as an example) and convert it to digital output?

That would seal the deal for me as I would never have to physically get up and hit my 3 switcher just to play another console.

I said before it had digital optical unless you didn't realize that TosLink is digital optical. I've got my GC, PS2, and Xbox hooked up to it right now. Both PS2 and Xbox are using optical, but for GC I'm just using analog. It's no big deal to me because I can set my inputs on a receiver to auto detect for digital and analog audio. I just have both my optical and analog from the switch box going to the same input on the receiver. Thus when I play GC, it outputs just analog, and my receiver automatically detects only an analog signal. Thus there is no need to do any further switching. It's all automatic. There shouldn't be a need for you to convert analog to digital.
 
I've been looking for the audio authority 1154A switch box in canada for a while, but without success :( Anyone here know of a store in canada that sells it online? In the worst case scenario i could always order from copperbox.com since they ship to canada but, the custom taxes would be heavy on that thing >_<
 
There ARE other fighting series besides SF, ya know. All fighting games are more intuitive with a stick in my opinion

But very few use 6 attack buttons. It's all good.
 
Question about the Auto Sensing AA Component switcher.

What happens if you accidently turn on two devices at the same time? (ie Xbox and DVD that both use Component and Toslink)
 
olubode said:
Question about the Auto Sensing AA Component switcher.

What happens if you accidently turn on two devices at the same time? (ie Xbox and DVD that both use Component and Toslink)

It will set priority to the first device plugged in the input, lets say you have xbox plugged in 1 and dvd in 2, if both are open, it will display xbox's. You can also set them manually from what i've read.
 
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