When it comes to component video switches you really need to watch the bandwidth. If you go with something less than 30Mhz and you watch 1080i or 720p you will start to see a loss in picture quality. The signs are reduced detail, dull color, muddiness, etc. These signs are most noticeable when you are testing the limits of HD. What I mean by that is when you are using large displays and watching programing with vivid colors (rich blues and reds). In some of my experimenting with the JVC, Sony and Recton products I have found them to introduce halos and rings in the reds and blues. These problems when not found in the Inday and Audio Authority products which I tested. I could not get the oscilloscope to work so I could not get hard numbers but the visual proof was enough for me. I did not test the Zektor product but from speaking with friends who upgraded from older AA products they say it is solid as well. I own an Inday and love it. My friend who helped in the testing owns the AA 1154. If I where to buy a new switch today, I would go with the Zektor due to its more A/V component like design. The size of the unit is the same as a receiver or DVD player so it does not look odd in a rack.
My parting shots are if the manufacture is not telling you an important detail such as the bandwith of the product it is because they don't want you to know.
Here is a test for the Pelican Pro:
I've aquired one, tested it, and fully evaluated it's design:
General Description:
The switch has 8 inputs, 7 on the rear and 1 on the front behind a door.
Each input has Y, Pr, Pb, Video, Left, Right, and S-video. Channels 1 to 3 also have Toslink and Ethernet.
The output has all of the mentioned signals, in addition to a second left and right audio output.
On the front it reads, "High Definition Component Video", however there is no other mention of this or HDTV anywhere including in the manual.
It has no IR capabilities and is controlled solely by the front panel buttons.
The unit was manufactured in China.
The paint job was slightly thin and inconsistent, but may not be noticable once installed in a home.
Inside the chassis reveals a sinlge sided PCB, and a relay based switching system. The connectors on the rear panel are vertically mounted on a rear panel PCB, and the two are joined by a tab and slot method rather than connectors.
Interestingly there is no circuitry for the ethernet. The ethernet signals are switched through a relay just like video and audio. One would think that with three ethernet jacks on the back there would be a hub inside, but not so. Switching this way would cause the unselected ethernet ports to loose their link.
It appears that the unit can be expanded to switch 8 toslink signals, but the manufacturer left out the last 5, presumably to reduce cost. Also noticed is the second audio output is wire tied to the first output, so this in effect is like adding a Y adapter in line.
Overall the build quality was that of a cheap $69 VCR, but one could expect that for the $99 retail price. The plastic front panel and door assembly operated marginally, and I would anticipate it breaking if used freqently.
Performance:
A 40MHz and 100MHz signal were passed through the switch to measure performance.
Below are the test results.
Loss (Y signal tested on channel 1)
40MHz -2.6dB
100MHz -4.6dB
Crosstalk (Agressor was Y, Victim was Pb, on channel 1)
40MHz -13dB
100MHz -10dB
The loss is bad enough that this device should be used for no greater than 480p.
However the crosstalk is bad enough that this may cause visible picture problems, even at 480p.
Picture quality:
DVD/480p OK
HDTV/1080i Softening of picture, some ghosting patterns
S-vid, Left and Right audio, Ethernet, and Toslink were not performance tested for now.