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"I need a New PC!" 2011 Edition of SSD's for everyone! |OT|

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I've finally more or less finished making my quiet system. I'll post some pics and info in case anyone else was interested in making their computer quieter and would like some of my experience doing it.





The pic of the back still has the middle HD cage which I later removed. Anyway, I kept zoning in on things that were making noise in my computer until it's about as quiet as I can get it. Here's what I did:

System Fans: This was loudest originally in my HAF922. A fan controller does wonders for that. My set-up now has Noctua fans (3 NF-S12B FLX and a NF-P12 for the 212+), and at low settings (600-700RPM) they're very quiet in the P183.

GPU: Post fan-controller, the Asus EAH6850 was easily the loudest thing in my computer, even with the fan at its lowest setting (20%). I replaced the stock cooling system with an Accelero S1 Rev 2 heat-sink. By itself though, it would get hotter and hotter at idle until it was at 60C or higher, and at load it didn't do the job, rising to over 94C in Furmark (when I stopped the test). A 120mm fan blowing toward it does the trick though - even at a very low speed (600 rpm with a quiet fan), it's cooler than with the stock cooling system, and pretty much silent.

Hard Drive: After that, the WD Caviar Black reared its head. It was relatively loud even when "stopped" after prolonged inactivity, and quite noisy when active. Putting it in an enclosure (Scythe Quiet Drive) really cuts down on the constant noise and kind of dulls the seek noise, basically making the active state sound like the unenclosed inactive state, and the inactive pretty quiet. In my final set-up, I also soft-mounted it on foam at the bottom of my case, which brings the noise down even further (active has just a slight humm and inactive is practically inaudible without putting your ear up to it).

Case: This is basically just the final touch. It just dulls the noise a bit more, especially helpful for the hard-drive. The loudest thing from it is the rear exhaust fan. I covered up the top with some acoustic foam to further prevent sound leakage. The door in the front dulls some of the inner noise, but doesn't make too big a difference except for the HDD. I might put some foam there too later on. It does have plenty of room for front fan controllers with knobs (my Scythe Kaze Master Ace fits in with room to spare).

Overall, it's very quiet, but not 100% silent (you'd basically have to go fanless for that, requiring a much less powerful system). Temps are definitely hotter than in the HAF though. The GPU isn't affected much (probably because I have the large fan blowing right at it) but CPU was idling around 10C or more higher than in the HAF (albeit with lower fan speeds all around, including the CPU cooler). I have my fans really low and at idle get around 42C GPU and 50-55C CPU. I found that putting just one intake fan in the middle position (in front of the GPU / HD cage) doesn't do much, but putting it at the front as I now have it and removing the cage that's normally there lowered CPU temps around 5-8C, a pretty decent amount. Turning on C-State though lowers the CPU temps dramatically despite the same fixed voltage, giving me idle temps of around 36-40 with a frequency fluctuating around 2.5 GHz vs. my normal overclock 4 GHz.

For load, putting fan speeds up and opening the front door gives you decent temps too, maybe around 5 C higher or so all around than with the HAF 922 at peak load, so when noise isn't a concern, cooling's not a problem.

Hope that helps out anyone who's considering a P183 or wants to quiet their system down a bit.
 

coopolon

Member
keeblerdrow said:
razer_nostromo.jpg

.

I was really disappointed by this thing. I bought it with the hopes that it would make couch gaming easier, at least for fps and tps where you typically don't need that many keys since it's a much smaller profile than my g15.

My problem is the space key is way out of the way, and both it and the alt key are terribly unresponsive. I got it on the woot sale for $35, I'd be even more upset if I'd bought it for 70. The d-pad joystick sucks too, but you can remove it and then you just have a d-pad which is nice.
 

TheExodu5

Banned
Kurashima said:
silent pc

Looks great. My next build will certainly be a silent one. I hope some really high end silent cases come out by then. Something like the Corsair 650D with noise isolation.

In my HAF X, the loudest components are the drives, thanks to resonance.
 

RedSwirl

Junior Member
1-D_FTW said:
RedSwirl said:
Since I'm probably gonna settle on the 460, what is the best consensus I could get on how much wattage I need?

Currently I got 425w but people are giving me suggestions between that much and 700w. Someone also told me that my case will accept any "AX" PSU. Care to clarify?

I'm running an overclocked quad core Q8400 with a 460 and in games that really push both, I max out at around 250 - 260 watts on my Kill-a-watt measuring device. Assuming you don't have some weird motherboard that sucks wattage, you should be fine.

EDIT: This is a Earthwatts (rebadged Seasonic) power supply that's very efficient. Think it's around 85-90 percent at half load. So if it's an old power supply that's operating at around 65 percent efficiency, numbers would be significantly higher. But with a dual core, even that shouldn't be an issue unless you have a motherboard that sucks wattage.

I guess I should still clarify that I'll be putting it into a Dell XPS 420 with a Core 2 Quad Q6600. I'm told Dell uses unusual motherboards. I got this PSU along with the rest of the system in 2007.
 

Max

I am not Max
Gaaaf, i'm looking into buying a new LCD monitor at $250 CAD maximum for use alongside my LG 22" as well as playing my PS3.

Looking here: http://ncix.com/products/index.php?minorcatid=1003

I'm most interested in what would be suited best for a PS3 with minimal ghosting (my hdtv is terrible with video games because of this, main reason i'm looking to get a new monitor)

If anyone has any recommendations that would be excellent
 
I'm looking at a lot of combo deals on Newegg for a new system, how do these motherboards compare:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130235

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128458&cm_re=880g_gigabyte-_-13-128-458-_-Product

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131406

Without looking at the links the big difference is the micro ATX model is 10$ cheaper, and the on board video cards. Is the NVIDIA GeForce 8200 better than the ATI Radeon HD 4250 for on board video, and what about the sideport memory of the ATI Radeon HD 4200? This is important because i'm trying to build a cheap PC, and I don't plan on buying a GPU for a while.
 
Thanks for the help so far guys. I am going to move my current system(Phenom IIx3 720BE, 4GB RAM, 4890, 3TB) from a Lanbox Lite over to a Lian Li v351b and add a fully modular PSU and bluray reader/burner. In a few months I will upgrade to an SSD. Probably within the next year or two I will upgrade the video card and CPU; I really don't PC game enough to warrant a full upgrade right now.
 

LiquidMetal14

hide your water-based mammals
I Raised the clocks a little then lowered them since I was seeing a little bit of white dots that looked like flashes on the screen. I just got Crysis and after about 2 hours of playing the GPU maxed out at 96C with clocks slightly below 6970 levels. The highest GPU temp was 96C, was GPU #3. I don't know if these levels are too high but the performance was great with everything on very high and 8x AA.

I've lowered it a little more as to avoid the super high temps. Game performance has been great across the board.
 

Zzoram

Member
The Gaming Gamer said:
I'm looking at a lot of combo deals on Newegg for a new system, how do these motherboards compare:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130235

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128458&cm_re=880g_gigabyte-_-13-128-458-_-Product

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131406

Without looking at the links the big difference is the micro ATX model is 10$ cheaper, and the on board video cards. Is the NVIDIA GeForce 8200 better than the ATI Radeon HD 4250 for on board video, and what about the sideport memory of the ATI Radeon HD 4200? This is important because i'm trying to build a cheap PC, and I don't plan on buying a GPU for a while.
The 4250 should be better than the 8200 but Neither are great due to being integrated. Should run Team Fortress 2 well though and Starcraft 2 ok.
 

comrade

Member
LiquidMetal14 said:
I Raised the clocks a little then lowered them since I was seeing a little bit of white dots that looked like flashes on the screen. I just got Crysis and after about 2 hours of playing the GPU maxed out at 96C with clocks slightly below 6970 levels. The highest GPU temp was 96C, was GPU #3. I don't know if these levels are too high but the performance was great with everything on very high and 8x AA.
That's a little hot but you should be fine. I've mostly read you're safe to about 100C. What are your cards fans running at?
 

antonz

Member
LiquidMetal14 said:
I Raised the clocks a little then lowered them since I was seeing a little bit of white dots that looked like flashes on the screen. I just got Crysis and after about 2 hours of playing the GPU maxed out at 96C with clocks slightly below 6970 levels. The highest GPU temp was 96C, was GPU #3. I don't know if these levels are too high but the performance was great with everything on very high and 8x AA.

I've lowered it a little more as to avoid the super high temps. Game performance has been great across the board.

How many GPU do you have? 3? 9650 and 9670 generally run 77-80C under full load. with Crossfire moves upto about 88C on average
 

LiquidMetal14

hide your water-based mammals
comrade said:
That's a little hot but you should be fine. I've mostly read you're safe to about 100C. What are your cards fans running at?
3100 RPM at peak during my Crysis playthrough. I've lowered the OC a little since then.

antonz said:
How many GPU do you have? 3? 96C is pretty high as most cards generally run 70-80s under full load.
I have 1. I'm tinkering right now and lowered to test and see when the artifacts would go away. I may consider going lower to get a little less heat though.

I should correct myself, the highest I seen the GPU temp in GPUZ is 92C. Under the GPU temp 1-3 it was a little higher.
 

antonz

Member
LiquidMetal14 said:
3100 RPM at peak during my Crysis playthrough. I've lowered the OC a little since then.


I have 1. I'm tinkering right now and lowered to test and see when the artifacts would go away. I may consider going lower to get a little less heat though.

I should correct myself, the highest I seen the GPU temp in GPUZ is 92C. Under the GPU temp 1-3 it was a little higher.

Stock cooler or factory modified? Going through reviews for the cards it seems like going over 80 is pretty rare so hitting 96 is really odd.
 

LiquidMetal14

hide your water-based mammals
antonz said:
Stock cooler or factory modified? Going through reviews for the cards it seems like going over 80 is pretty rare so hitting 96 is really odd.
That's a stock cooler. Like I said, it was actually 92 but that's still hot I assume. I looked around and those temps are not too extreme but I really don't want this thing to get that hot. I've lowered it twice and may even go back to the 6970 flash clocks of 880mhz and 1375mhz for the memory.
 

antonz

Member
LiquidMetal14 said:
That's a stock cooler. Like I said, it was actually 92 but that's still hot I assume. I looked around and those temps are not too extreme but I really don't want this thing to get that hot. I've lowered it twice and may even go back to the 6970 flash clocks of 880mhz and 1375mhz for the memory.

I suspect the stock cooler plays a part in it. All the hardware reviews for overclocked systems have nicer coolers than the standard. You could try setting up a fan that can be focused on blowing on the gpu to try and assist in cooling
 

LiquidMetal14

hide your water-based mammals
antonz said:
I suspect the stock cooler plays a part in it. All the hardware reviews for overclocked systems have nicer coolers than the standard. You could try setting up a fan that can be focused on blowing on the gpu to try and assist in cooling
I will consider that. Is there some PCI type fans that hook up? Or is it a simple addition with some power supplied?

And the lowered settings yielded temps of about 81-85C in another Crysis session.
 

Ecto311

Member
How does this look for a build vs price - for a blizzard games/TF2 machine?

AMD Phenom II X2 560 Black Edition Boxed Processor $110
ASUS M4N68T-M V2 Socket AM3 630a mATX Motherboard $free with processor
G.Skill ripjaws 4gig $46

$156 for the set and I already have a decent antec 550 psu and gtx460.

We had a sandy bridge motherboard set but the board died and microcenter refunded it. This setup complete is cheaper than just the i5 - I know it is weaker but for the price is it worth it or just wait for the i5 to come back out with good motherboards?
 

Ecrofirt

Member
I've got an incredibly stupid question.

My motherboard, as I'm sure all do, came with a cutout panel that i'm supposed to attach to the back of the case. The panel has cutouts for each of the motherboard's onboard ports (USB, HDMI, audio, etc.)

Am I supposed to attach this cutout to my case BEFORE installing the motherboard, or am I somehow supposed to attach it to my motherboard, and then install the whole mess into my case.

I ask because I've tried it both ways.

If I install it into my case first, the thing seems to be a bit bulged out in the center. I've also noticed that what look like pressure clips of some sort go INTO the USB and ethernet jacks on my motherboard, which doesn't make any sense.

If I attempt to somehow attach it to my motherboard, I can't see any way to make it stick. Furthermore, attempting to attach it to my motherboard is bending the pressure clips on it, and I have a feeling that this shouldn't be happening.

I've checked the directions for both my motherboard and my case, and neither one makes any mention of the cutout piece.
 

Salaadin

Member
Is it safe to turn off HDD spin down in Windows power management? I have a backup drive that I dont use that much but whenever I do, I have to wait for it to rev up and get going. It only takes a few seconds but Id be happier if it didnt happen at all. Im thinking its because of the HDD turn off feature in power management.

Can any harm come from this?
 

Ecto311

Member
Ecrofirt said:
I've got an incredibly stupid question.

My motherboard, as I'm sure all do, came with a cutout panel that i'm supposed to attach to the back of the case. The panel has cutouts for each of the motherboard's onboard ports (USB, HDMI, audio, etc.)

Am I supposed to attach this cutout to my case BEFORE installing the motherboard, or am I somehow supposed to attach it to my motherboard, and then install the whole mess into my case.

I ask because I've tried it both ways.

If I install it into my case first, the thing seems to be a bit bulged out in the center. I've also noticed that what look like pressure clips of some sort go INTO the USB and ethernet jacks on my motherboard, which doesn't make any sense.

If I attempt to somehow attach it to my motherboard, I can't see any way to make it stick. Furthermore, attempting to attach it to my motherboard is bending the pressure clips on it, and I have a feeling that this shouldn't be happening.

I've checked the directions for both my motherboard and my case, and neither one makes any mention of the cutout piece.

it should have dimples on the sides of it letting it snap into the back of the case. Then you slide in the motherboard and screw it down. Sometimes I have to screw down one and spin it on that one to get some pressure against the metal on that plate and get it lined up.

Might be some youtube videos to show you better than I can explain.
 

Ecrofirt

Member
Ecto311 said:
it should have dimples on the sides of it letting it snap into the back of the case. Then you slide in the motherboard and screw it down. Sometimes I have to screw down one and spin it on that one to get some pressure against the metal on that plate and get it lined up.

Might be some youtube videos to show you better than I can explain.


Thanks.

I ended up getting it in there.

Working on the CPU now. It's funny, because I've done this at work a bunch of times, but it's different when it's something you own.

Putting the pressure clip down on the CPU gave this scary creaky/crunchy noise. Ugh. Not excited about that.
 

Shambles

Member
Ecto311 said:
How does this look for a build vs price - for a blizzard games/TF2 machine?

AMD Phenom II X2 560 Black Edition Boxed Processor $110
ASUS M4N68T-M V2 Socket AM3 630a mATX Motherboard $free with processor
G.Skill ripjaws 4gig $46

$156 for the set and I already have a decent antec 550 psu and gtx460.

We had a sandy bridge motherboard set but the board died and microcenter refunded it. This setup complete is cheaper than just the i5 - I know it is weaker but for the price is it worth it or just wait for the i5 to come back out with good motherboards?

As much as I love getting the most for your dollar it's hard to justify a dual core these days. Keep in mind that it may be possible to unlock the extra cores on the die but it is no guarantee. I would almost recommend the quad core athlon instead but the free motherboard will only be with the cpu which makes it a great deal. If you can't turn it into a triple or quad core make sure you push it to 3.6-3.7ish. Shouldn't be hard. You could wait for the SNB i5's to return but you'll end up spending 350-400$ on the CPU/MB instead of 110$
 

InertiaXr

Member
Ecrofirt said:
Working on the CPU now. It's funny, because I've done this at work a bunch of times, but it's different when it's something you own.

Putting the pressure clip down on the CPU gave this scary creaky/crunchy noise. Ugh. Not excited about that.


Haha, I felt the exact same way with my 2500k. I've actually never put a computer together before and just assumed with how much force I was putting on it SOMETHING had to be wrong, but ended up all being fine.
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
Ecto311 said:
How does this look for a build vs price - for a blizzard games/TF2 machine?

AMD Phenom II X2 560 Black Edition Boxed Processor $110
ASUS M4N68T-M V2 Socket AM3 630a mATX Motherboard $free with processor
G.Skill ripjaws 4gig $46

$156 for the set and I already have a decent antec 550 psu and gtx460.

We had a sandy bridge motherboard set but the board died and microcenter refunded it. This setup complete is cheaper than just the i5 - I know it is weaker but for the price is it worth it or just wait for the i5 to come back out with good motherboards?
If you've got the cash definitely drop it on the 2500K. If you REALLY can't wait, then get an x4 and mobo.
 

Ecto311

Member
Shambles said:
As much as I love getting the most for your dollar it's hard to justify a dual core these days. Keep in mind that it may be possible to unlock the extra cores on the die but it is no guarantee. I would almost recommend the quad core athlon instead but the free motherboard will only be with the cpu which makes it a great deal. If you can't turn it into a triple or quad core make sure you push it to 3.6-3.7ish. Shouldn't be hard. You could wait for the SNB i5's to return but you'll end up spending 350-400$ on the CPU/MB instead of 110$
On the microcenter site they list a ton of combos and even the 6 core has a free motherboard. I just compared the quad and dual (athlon and phenom) and being dual core the phenom was a better performer for a lot of things. The quad phenom was $50 more and the benchmarks didn't seem to justify the price. I got a 212 to cool and do a bit of overclocking and not really worried about the extra cores. If they are there cool.
 

antonz

Member
Ecto311 said:
How does this look for a build vs price - for a blizzard games/TF2 machine?

AMD Phenom II X2 560 Black Edition Boxed Processor $110
ASUS M4N68T-M V2 Socket AM3 630a mATX Motherboard $free with processor
G.Skill ripjaws 4gig $46

$156 for the set and I already have a decent antec 550 psu and gtx460.

We had a sandy bridge motherboard set but the board died and microcenter refunded it. This setup complete is cheaper than just the i5 - I know it is weaker but for the price is it worth it or just wait for the i5 to come back out with good motherboards?

I would suggest the issue you had with the prior board was just a fluke board. The fact it died isnt related to the recall. I think sticking with the 2500K is the way to go otherwise you are just setting yourself up for another upgrade in the nearer future.

The 560 BE is like 2 teirs of cpus behind my Q9450 on toms hardware and I got that like 3 years ago
 

Staccat0

Fail out bailed
I'm a damn idiot and made thread about this in the OT, but I should have asked here (thanks for the heads up DrBaalzamon)

Probably not a great place to ask this and I'll probably ask in some other locations too and do a lot of research, but this shit always bums me out and I know you guys are all smarter than me anyway...

I want to make the jump to Pro Tools 9.
The Problem: I've always ran it on macs in the past. I always liked the comfort and simplicity of a closed architecture (same reason I'm a console gamer anymore really... I'm sorta' lazy and dumb) and OSX really appealed to me back in the day... but I can't afford a new Mac AND PT9 AND new Plug-ins right now.
My alternative is to get a $2000 imac and $500 logic pro 9, but I know PT pretty well and would like to stay on board with them now that they've stopped.

My goal is to build a PC that can do moderate post-production work and run PT9 in a stable environment for <$1000
I'd really like to have some firewire ports too :/

I don't really have anything other than keyboards, mice, speakers, a small "secondary" monitor and my external "audio drive" to bring to the table.
I'm hoping a friend will help me assemble the bastard, but a ready made one is okay too I suppose.
Noise is a consideration as well....
Any advice?
Are the newegg DIY kits good deals?


Thanks in advance. I know this isn't gaming related...

EDIT: Also somewhat interested in a rackmount case, but I'm not familiar with the cons.
 
I know very little about PCs for non-gaming purchases, but this is what I've gleaned off of the Something Awful PC thread just like this: (They have these kinds of requests all the time)

i7 2600 (reg or K) with it's accompanying board: $450
16GB RAM (4GBx4): $160
~120GB Solid State Drive: $250 (can go lower)
~2TB of 7200rpm HDD space: $200
Case: $60
Firewire ports on some PCI card dealie: $5
Video Card: I'm not sure what your needs would be here. $170 for a 1GB GTX 460 or a Radeon HD 6850?

Most of your post production work is processor and RAM intensive, isn't it? That's why I stacked up on those parts. These would all suit your needs, I think. Someone with more knowledge of your specific needs might be able to help you more, but it's always fun to speculate, for me.

If you're looking to also purchase an IPS monitor with good gamut coverage and color representation, look to pay around $1000 for a 27" one-a' those.
 

Staccat0

Fail out bailed
keeblerdrow said:
I know very little about PCs for non-gaming purchases, but this is what I've gleaned off of the Something Awful PC thread just like this: (They have these kinds of requests all the time)

i7 2600 (reg or K) with it's accompanying board: $450
16GB RAM (4GBx4): $160
~120GB Solid State Drive: $250 (can go lower)
~2TB of 7200rpm HDD space: $200
Case: $60
Firewire ports on some PCI card dealie: $5
Video Card: I'm not sure what your needs would be here. $170 for a 1GB GTX 460 or a Radeon HD 6850?

Most of your post production work is processor and RAM intensive, isn't it? That's why I stacked up on those parts. These would all suit your needs, I think. Someone with more knowledge of your specific needs might be able to help you more, but it's always fun to speculate, for me.

If you're looking to also purchase an IPS monitor with good gamut coverage and color representation, look to pay around $1000 for a 27" one-a' those.
Thanks for the response! Thanks! I'm just trying to get a feel for what is even modern anymore.
I actually just need real estate on a monitor. I don't care if it looks like complete shit lol. I put audio to the pictures, but I don't care if they look good. I'm thinking I can skimp on a monitor.
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
Staccat0 said:
Thanks for the response! Thanks! I'm just trying to get a feel for what is even modern anymore.
I actually just need real estate on a monitor. I don't care if it looks like complete shit lol. I put audio to the pictures, but I don't care if they look good. I'm thinking I can skimp on a monitor.
Build in OP.
+ 2600K
+ 8GB (You can just buy 8GB more if you aren't using it all)
- GTX 460
- Seasonic 520W
+ Some 24" LCD on cheap. Acer/Samsung for price
 

Staccat0

Fail out bailed
Hazaro said:
Build in OP.
+ 2600K
+ 8GB (You can just buy 8GB more if you aren't using it all)
- GTX 460
- Seasonic 520W
+ Some 24" LCD on cheap. Acer/Samsung for price
Cool, that helps bit. Looking at AMD stuff and intel stuff.
This stuff is scary as hell...
 
Is a 230W PSU enough for this build:

i5-2500 @ stock
Intel H67 board
8GB RAM
2x 7200rpm HDDs
Plus the occasional passive USB HDD

No dedicated GPU or optical drives.

Here's the PSU in question:
20090716_8e76c89d6ea5222d526f1sUILVRuuuml.jpg
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
From a pure wattage standpoint and A on the 12V... maybe. You are cutting super super close though. I'd be very hesitant to run $500 of stuff on it.

Much rather have a 350-520w Seasonic powering it. Can't imagine the pricing is far off if you consider it part of total cost unless you already have it.

Because while it maybe be 230W and your system may draw 150W, how much of 230W can be on the 12V rail? Probably very close to its max.
 

n0n44m

Member
ehh ... it miiight just work, but barely ... why would you risk it?

I understand hardware is hard to get where you live, but that PSU is not only really really weak but it is probably from the stone-age as well judging by the fact that it has more Amperage on the 5V than on the 12V (that's like ... pre Pentium IV era?)

does it even have enough ATX pins to connect to the motherboard? (24 on main ATX + 4/8 extra 12V plug)

I use an old Pentium IV era 350Watt Antec in the pc I build for my dad, which is an Athlon II X4 build so I just used some 20 to 24 pin converters because I know it is a decent PSU , just a little outdated

Huntkey is not exactly high-quality, and if it will run at all it will be close to 100% loaded ... I blew up plenty of cheap PSUs in my younger days so I wouldn't risk your new hardware to such a PSU
 
Ouch. I definitely don't want to be cutting too close, so it's out of the question then.

I've been looking high and low for an HTPC case, and the only one I could find was a Huntkey that comes with the above PSU. I guess I should keep looking... or wait it out until fixed SB mobos are back at retail and import the whole shebang online (forfeiting any kind of warranty in the process).
 

mrklaw

MrArseFace
Naked Snake said:
Ouch. I definitely don't want to be cutting too close, so it's out of the question then.

I've been looking high and low for an HTPC case, and the only one I could find was a Huntkey that comes with the above PSU. I guess I should keep looking... or wait it out until fixed SB mobos are back at retail and import the whole shebang online (forfeiting any kind of warranty in the process).

or if its a standard size, just swap it out for a decent PSU?

What case is it, and what are your requirements? And where are you located as that sounds like an issue for you
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
Naked Snake said:
Ouch. I definitely don't want to be cutting too close, so it's out of the question then.

I've been looking high and low for an HTPC case, and the only one I could find was a Huntkey that comes with the above PSU. I guess I should keep looking... or wait it out until fixed SB mobos are back at retail and order online.
How small? A lot depends on your case.
You'll also probably need to get a molex/molex to 4 pin CPU power as the motherboards will have a 2x4 slot for power.
I doubt a large majority of mATX PSU's come with a 8 pin cpu connector.

Like this http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812123344
*but probably 2 molex vs. 1 molex on it. Or even 2 molex to a 2x2 ATX power connector.
 
mrklaw said:
or if its a standard size, just swap it out for a decent PSU?

What case is it, and what are your requirements? And where are you located as that sounds like an issue for you

It's Huntkey H290. Not exactly a great looking case, but I am desperate for low-profile case, and was planning on painting the silver parts black.

I guess I could swap the PSU, but it would be wasting money, since I'm already paying for the built-in PSU (retailer asking for $65 for the case).

I live in Amman, Jordan. It's the bane of my existence :)
 
Hazaro said:
How small? A lot depends on your case.
You'll also probably need to get a molex/molex to 4 pin CPU power as the motherboards will have a 2x4 slot for power.
I doubt a large majority of mATX PSU's come with a 8 pin cpu connector.

Like this http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812123344
*but probably 2 molex vs. 1 molex on it. Or even 2 molex to a 2x2 ATX power connector.

Ah, I was worrying something like might crop up. I never built a full PC before.
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
Actually it looks like it does have the 8 pin power.
http://www.overclockers.ru/lab/33237_2/Razumnyj_minimum_HTPC._Testirovanie_korpusa_Huntkey_H920.html

As for replacing it. If you could that would be a good idea. You can use the listed dimensions of the case to figure out the PSU dimensions. It looks like it might be a tad thinner, but an mATX PSU looks like it should fit??

This stuff is only really a factor with small form factor PC builds.

http://www.overclockers.ru/images/lab/2009/06/15/07_big.jpg
http://www.overclockers.ru/images/lab/2009/06/15/18.gif

*$65 for a small case isn't bad at all.
 

Omiee

Member
will going from 4gb of memory to 8gb help me at all with gaming and multitasking ( watch hd films on one monitor and browsing on other monitor or gaming )

also i have a benq monitor for now but im getting a dell one this week, and according to some benches i should get 80 to 100 fps with some games with my 470 sli.
but with fraps none of my games go over 60fps..? what is up with that.
 
Omiee said:
also i have a benq monitor for now but im getting a dell one this week, and according to some benches i should get 80 to 100 fps with some games with my 470 sli.
but with fraps none of my games go over 60fps..? what is up with that.

Is there a point in higher fps when your LCD monitor [assuming] refreshes at 60Hz?
 

1-D_FTW

Member
Hazaro said:
From a pure wattage standpoint and A on the 12V... maybe. You are cutting super super close though. I'd be very hesitant to run $500 of stuff on it.

Much rather have a 350-520w Seasonic powering it. Can't imagine the pricing is far off if you consider it part of total cost unless you already have it.

Because while it maybe be 230W and your system may draw 150W, how much of 230W can be on the 12V rail? Probably very close to its max.

Not only that, but I'd be worried about the efficiency of such a low budget PSU. If that thing is only rated at 65 percent (not that uncommon), the power supply is using 100 watts to generate 65 usable watts. That's really cutting it close. I wouldn't do it.

Naked Snake said:
Is there a point in higher fps when your LCD monitor [assuming] refreshes at 60Hz?

It allows you overhead when a scene spikes (so you can maintain 60 fps without dipping). Other than that, no. Enable D3DOverrider to keep it triple buffereed at 60fps. Going over will only create tearing.
 
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