• Hey, guest user. Hope you're enjoying NeoGAF! Have you considered registering for an account? Come join us and add your take to the daily discourse.

"I need a New PC!" 2011 Edition of SSD's for everyone! |OT|

Status
Not open for further replies.
Seagoon said:
Drivers are up to date - I read something in the past that lead me to believe it was a motherboard thing - if other people haven't had this problem maybe that confirms it. I just don't want to buy a card and find the problem still exists.

EDIT: This link confirms my motherboard cannot do both: http://superuser.com/questions/1518...ys-work-on-a-amd-785g-ati-hd-4200-motherboard

Again, I'm not positive but I thought stew and a couple others had done it and it was fine. And I don't think it's a motherboard issue as much as the integrated chip on the mobo. If you got a regular GPU I think it will fix it but I'd wait until someone else can confirm or I find more info about it. My GPU is old and doesn't have HDMI so I can't test it for you before you drop the dough.
 

AkIRA_22

Member
teacupcopter said:
Yeah that's what I meant. I'm sorry I'm such a fucking idiot when it comes to this stuff, I swear it makes sense in my brain when I type it. I mean like... yeah, the new 'sandy bridge' will obviously be more powerful but if I was looking at the power to price point range of the ii5-760, like what would be good for me in the new range? I only asked because on wiki and the anandtech writeup someone linked before they have some direct things like "i7-750-- i7-2750" like that will be the direct upgrade to it, but the i5-760 was noticably missing from that.

So the i5-2500k would be a good bet and a definite upgrade on the i5-760 yeah? Just to make sure (I'm really grateful for all this :))

Yeah mate at this stage it's looking like the 2500k will be the "760 replacement" that is, the mid range chip with a great price-performance ratio. The Sandybridge chips won't be officially released for another week so, that's when we will get benchmark results telling us how these chips truly perform. But we are expecting great results.

For here in Australia check www.megaware.com.au they will have them when they are released, also try www.shopbot.com.au it aggregates a bunch of online shops and is a great tool for comparing prices.
 

artist

Banned
sikkinixx said:
I was planning on getting a 460 to replace my 8800GT for the longest time, but I am kind of torn between that and a 6850.

Right now I can get this Gigabyte 6850 for $176cdn, which is a bit less than a 1GB 460 card.

http://www.bestdirect.ca/products/231361/GV-R685D5-1GD/Gigabyte/

It's nice as there is no MIR attached to get it under $200 like most of the 1GB 460 cards have (most are $200+ with a MIR to bring it closer to $175).

But I dunno if I want to get an ATI/AMD card as I know their drivers aren't supposed to be quite as good... What do I do GAF? Wait until a 460 1GB goes on sale again?
Drivers are an old issue but its still all subjective. If you're looking to OC then obviously the 460 is the better choice.

HD6800-92.jpg


Zotac one is on sale right now; http://www2.ncix.com/products/index.php?sku=54996&vpn=ZT-40402-10P&manufacture=Zotac&promoid=1276
 
Does anyone know how good the stock coolers for the athlon x4 chips are? I have an aftermarket cooler but apparently the nut the screw goes into on the underside of the motherboard is stripped since it just turns since the shitty plastic isn't holding it in place anymore. Curious if it's worth just using the stock instead.

Edit: On second look, it seems AMD uses a different way of the holding the chip so I think that bottom piece was intel only so I may be ok....
 

Celcius

°Temp. member
Any recommendations for an internal wireless card for my desktop? I'm running win 7 (64-bit) and do a lot of gaming (I'm on verizon fios btw)
Don't worry about price, I'm more concerned about quality. My mobo has both pci and pci-e (rampage 3 extreme)
thanks
 

Wallach

Member
Zaraki_Kenpachi said:
WTF, amd still uses actual pins? Is it supposed to bend them when you lower the bar to tighten?

No, if the pins are actually bending it's not seated right. The corner triangles should match, and the CPU should just fall into the socket in that orientation.
 
Wallach said:
No, if the pins are actually bending it's not seated right. The corner triangles should match, and the CPU should just fall into the socket in that orientation.

Dunno, I can't get it out though. I lined up the triangles.

Edit: Nvm, I just didn't lift it all the way to get it out. Why would you use actual pins still? So awkward for someone doing it for the first time.
 
Do I absolutely have to reinstall windows for my mobo/cpu change? I uninstalled all the old drivers and I'm installing the new drivers now. Will this fix everything or will problems arise eventually?
 
Zaraki_Kenpachi said:
Do I absolutely have to reinstall windows for my mobo/cpu change? I uninstalled all the old drivers and I'm installing the new drivers now. Will this fix everything or will problems arise eventually?

I've never heard of anyone not doing a full reinstall when dealing with a change of CPU/Motherboard. It's pretty much needed in order to make sure everything works properly.
 

sh4mike

Member
It appears that most gaming PCs are running Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit. What's the preferred method for getting the O/S at an attractive price? An OEM version from some online retailer?
 
sh4mike said:
It appears that most gaming PCs are running Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit. What's the preferred method for getting the O/S at an attractive price? An OEM version from some online retailer?
Ya, you can find the OEM for like $100 or Microsoft has an upgrade of it for like $30 if you're a student. Those are the two most used methods I would assume.
 

iNvid02

Member
lets say you had $3000 to spend on a pc just for gaming, what would you build?

no OS, no monitor, no wifi, no mouse/keyboard

(yeah its for me :D )
 
iNvidious01 said:
lets say you had $3000 to spend on a pc just for gaming, what would you build?

no OS, no monitor, no wifi, no mouse/keyboard

(yeah its for me :D )

Why would you spend $3000? What are you using it for?
 

iNvid02

Member
Zaraki_Kenpachi said:
Why would you spend $3000? What are you using it for?

i want to get into pc gaming but i have a 2560x1600 display and want to run games at max quality and have it do that for as long as possible. if it can be done for less than $3000 perfect
 

kamspy

Member
Please help PC GAF.

I'm getting an error that crashes my machine.

Hyper Flood Sync Error


It seems to be an AMD exclusive.

I've:

ran memtest
reinstalled windows 7
reset the bios
tested with default RAM clocks and recommended RAM clocks
test with overclock and with stock clocks
disabled cool n quiet
basically tested every bios value in both states


Only crashes when I play graphically intensive games.

Oddly, I can run Intel Burn Test and Furmark all day and get no crashes.

Bum thing to happen on new years eve.
 

Wallach

Member
kamspy said:
Please help PC GAF.

I'm getting an error that crashes my machine.

Hyper Flood Sync Error


It seems to be an AMD exclusive.

I've:

ran memtest
reinstalled windows 7
reset the bios
tested with default RAM clocks and recommended RAM clocks
test with overclock and with stock clocks
disabled cool n quiet
basically tested every bios value in both states


Only crashes when I play graphically intensive games.

Oddly, I can run Intel Burn Test and Furmark all day and get no crashes.

Bum thing to happen on new years eve.

Quick search would tell me to try updating the BIOS. Seemed like a common issue on some type of ASUS boards. Otherwise try to bump up the CPU/CPU-NB voltages slightly.
 
Damn, I forgot how quickly windows 7 installs. Just finished and now my video card is the slowest part of my system. Now to finish installing updates and starting gaming again. :D
 

kamspy

Member
Wallach said:
Quick search would tell me to try updating the BIOS. Seemed like a common issue on some type of ASUS boards. Otherwise try to bump up the CPU/CPU-NB voltages slightly.

Aye. Not ASUS here. ECS. Did upgrade the BIOS though.

Did all the little voltage bumps suggested in the threads you're talking about. Seems like none of them over reached a real solid conclusion of why it was happening. Best case ending was people getting it to work most the time by running at odd clocks and voltages when their system was stable before hand.

This started late last night out of no where. Been doing google fu all damn day. No luck.

What a bummer.
 

Cipherr

Member
iNvidious01 said:
lets say you had $3000 to spend on a pc just for gaming, what would you build?

no OS, no monitor, no wifi, no mouse/keyboard

(yeah its for me :D )


Sheeeeeeeeeeeeeeit thatll be a fun build. Probably 4 way sli/crossfire or something. Christ, good times. Hope someone steps in and helps you out if you have the cash to spend on it. Would be interesting to see.
 

Shambles

Member
iNvidious01 said:
i want to get into pc gaming but i have a 2560x1600 display and want to run games at max quality and have it do that for as long as possible. if it can be done for less than $3000 perfect

Anything over the 1500$ mark is pretty insane (aka useless waste of cash) even on a 30" display.
 

iNvid02

Member
Shambles said:
Anything over the 1500$ mark is pretty insane (aka useless waste of cash) even on a 30" display.

how long will a $1500 pc be able to max most new games compared to a $3000 pc
all i want is to max out shit as long as i can
 

Wallach

Member
iNvidious01 said:
how long will a $1500 pc be able to max most new games compared to a $3000 pc
all i want is to max out shit as long as i can

$1500 now and $1500 when it stops being able to max shit out is a hell of a lot longer period of time compared to how long a $3000 machine will be able to max shit out.
 

Drkirby

Corporate Apologist
Oh yeah, once you are at about $1500 in a self made PC, anything more gives really diminishing returns. You will likely get like a 20% performance boost with the best thing $3000 can buy over $1500.
 

TheExodu5

Banned
iNvidious01 said:
i want to get into pc gaming but i have a 2560x1600 display and want to run games at max quality and have it do that for as long as possible. if it can be done for less than $3000 perfect

Wait a week and a half for Sandy Bridge.

Preliminary build:

Cooler Master HAF X - $200
1155 motherboard - $200
Intel 2600K - $320
8GB DDR3-1600 - $110
Corsair AX850 - $200
2x GTX 580 - $1000
120GB OCZ Vertex 2 - $230
2TB Samsung F4 - $80

Total: $2340

Drkirby said:
Oh yeah, once you are at about $1500 in a self made PC, anything more gives really diminishing returns. You will likely get like a 20% performance boost with the best thing $3000 can buy over $1500.

Not at all. Above $1500, you get an SLI setup, which is far more than a 20% boost. Absolutely overkill for most people, but the option is there. Also, in the case of my above build, you just get better overall components (HAF X, Corsair Professional series). You definitely have better bang for your buck at $1500, but anything over that is not a complete waste as you'd put it.

SLI tends to keep you 2 generations ahead of the GPU curve...the downsides are obviously greater overall cost and far greater power consumption.

One thing is nearly for certain: an overclocked 2600k is probably enough CPU for the 5 years. Games are not quickly adopting even quad core, and the next console generation is nowhere near. The system should last a long time regardless.
 

JohngPR

Member
I'm PC building on a budget.

The budget was $650 and this is what I got:

2yy8qrn.jpg

2afz9kg.jpg

2lvoftk.jpg


I also got Windows 7, system build. I figure by the time I'll be needing a new OS, whatever comes after Windows 7 will be out so I'm not that worried about it. :p
 

Drkirby

Corporate Apologist
Volume is loud enough for me, back in the box of stuff to be sold it goes. At least the thought was there with the gift.
 

TheExodu5

Banned
JohngPR said:
I'm PC building on a budget.

The budget was $650 and this is what I got:

2yy8qrn.jpg

2afz9kg.jpg

2lvoftk.jpg


I also got Windows 7, system build. I figure by the time I'll be needing a new OS, whatever comes after Windows 7 will be out so I'm not that worried about it. :p

Looks good overall, aside from the 5770...did you check prices for the GTX 460 768mb? Quite a bit faster for not much more at all.
 

Wallach

Member
TheExodu5 said:
Not at all. Above $1500, you get an SLI setup, which is far more than a 20% boost. Absolutely overkill for most people, but the option is there. Also, in the case of my above build, you just get better overall components (HAF X, Corsair Professional series). You definitely have better bang for your buck at $1500, but anything over that is not a complete waste as you'd put it.

SLI tends to keep you 2 generations ahead of the GPU curve...the downsides are obviously greater overall cost and far greater power consumption.

One thing is nearly for certain: an overclocked 2600k is probably enough CPU for the 5 years. Games are not quickly adopting even quad core, and the next console generation is nowhere near. The system should last a long time regardless.

Thing is it's kind of weird to buy up 2x580s in that kit right now when 1x580 is going to maul shit and you can just pocket that $500 and buy that second $580 a ways down the line and save like $200+ bucks.
 

TheExodu5

Banned
Coming back to invidious's build...I think we should ask something before you decide on how much you want to spend:

What kind of performance are you expecting? A $1500 system should max out anything now, though maybe not hold a solid 60fps in some titles (Crysis), and closer to 30fps in others (Arma 2, Metro). You'll still be pulling >60fps in the majority of games though.

Also, game requirements aren't going up all that much, since high end PC games are a rarity and consoles are nowhere near ready to move forward a generation.

Wallach said:
Thing is it's kind of weird to buy up 2x580s in that kit right now when 1x580 is going to maul shit and you can just pocket that $500 and buy that second $580 a ways down the line and save like $200+ bucks.

You're not going to be finding a $300 GTX 580 at any point, unless buying used. $400 is about as cheap as it will ever get, and that will be once the next console gen comes out.

I don't really think it's worth doing SLI 'down the line'. By that point, you'd be better off just selling your current card and buying a new card.
 

iNvid02

Member
TheExodu5 said:
Coming back to invidious's build...I think we should ask something before you decide on how much you want to spend:

What kind of performance are you expecting? A $1500 system should max out anything now, though maybe not hold a solid 60fps in some titles (Crysis), and closer to 30fps in others (Arma 2, Metro). You'll still be pulling >60fps in the majority of games though.

Also, game requirements aren't going up all that much, since high end PC games are a rarity and consoles are nowhere near ready to move forward a generation.

not too happy with PS3s barely 30fps and 720ps, hence why im getting a pc and saving the ps for the exclusives.
1920x1200 maxed for most games would be fine for me with solid frame rates. $3000 is what i have now, if i can pocket some that would be better than wasting it, i just dont wanna have to upgrade every year, maybe once every 3
 

TheExodu5

Banned
iNvidious01 said:
not too happy with PS3s barely 30fps and 720ps, hence why im getting a pc and saving the ps for the exclusives. 1920x1200 maxed for most games would be fine for me

Alright...lets cut things down then. No SLI. GTX 570 should also be plenty. The extra cash you pocket can be used to upgrade the video card down the line.

A $1500 PC is going to embarrass a PS3.

Though I'm still going to recommend the high quality case and PSU (though you don't need to listen to my recommendation here...lower end components will work as well). If you're not on a budget and are looking at a durable and expandable system, I think the extra $150-200 on quality case/psu are well worth it on a high end system.
 

JohngPR

Member
TheExodu5 said:
Looks good overall, aside from the 5770...did you check prices for the GTX 460 768mb? Quite a bit faster for not much more at all.

Yea I did, but after rebate I was looking at almost a $60 price difference and at that rate, I'd rather just wait and upgrade later on.
 

TheExodu5

Banned
JohngPR said:
Yea I did, but after rebate I was looking at almost a $60 price difference and at that rate, I'd rather just wait and upgrade later on.

Oh yeah not worth a $60 price increase. No worries then.
 
TheExodu5 said:
Wait a week and a half for Sandy Bridge.

Preliminary build:

Cooler Master HAF X - $200
1155 motherboard - $200
Intel 2600K - $320
8GB DDR3-1600 - $110
Corsair AX850 - $200
2x GTX 580 - $1000
120GB OCZ Vertex 2 - $230
2TB Samsung F4 - $80

Total: $2340



Not at all. Above $1500, you get an SLI setup, which is far more than a 20% boost. Absolutely overkill for most people, but the option is there. Also, in the case of my above build, you just get better overall components (HAF X, Corsair Professional series). You definitely have better bang for your buck at $1500, but anything over that is not a complete waste as you'd put it.

SLI tends to keep you 2 generations ahead of the GPU curve...the downsides are obviously greater overall cost and far greater power consumption.

One thing is nearly for certain: an overclocked 2600k is probably enough CPU for the 5 years. Games are not quickly adopting even quad core, and the next console generation is nowhere near. The system should last a long time regardless.

CF of 6970 offer more performance than a GTX580 at high resolutions (even higher the more filters are applied). And at the same time for $300 less.
 

Wallach

Member
TheExodu5 said:
You're not going to be finding a $300 GTX 580 at any point, unless buying used. $400 is about as cheap as it will ever get, and that will be once the next console gen comes out.

I don't really think it's worth doing SLI 'down the line'. By that point, you'd be better off just selling your current card and buying a new card.

Yeah, I dunno it might be like $350 new at that point. I don't think it will bottom out at $400.

As for when to go SLI I think it depends on how much you can actually resell your cards for and whether you even want to bother with doing that. I know a lot of people don't want to take the time to find a buyer. Like right now if I wasn't going to sell my 5850 I would probably just get a second one rather than moving into a 69xx or 5xx card.
 

longdi

Banned
kekekeke 6950 has been flashed to 6970! so easy in less than 10mins to get a fully working 6970. that should put me within 90% of GTX580 at 60% of the cost. :D
 

TheExodu5

Banned
Ryoma-Echizen said:
CF of 6970 offer more performance than a GTX580 at high resolutions (even higher the more filters are applied). And at the same time for $300 less.

The 1.5GB memory is not going to be limiting you at 2560 (except in GTA IV, lol). AMD generally becomes the better choice if you plan on going 3 monitors, due to both Eyefinity and the resolution. Otherwise, NVidia scales better in SLI.

Either way, he shouldn't be going SLI with his first PC gaming rig. I shouldn't have recommended it in the first place. Was just splurging a bit. :lol
 

Wallach

Member
longdi said:
kekekeke 6950 has been flashed to 6970! so easy in less than 10mins to get a fully working 6970. that should put me within 90% of GTX580 at 60% of the cost. :D

Damn I want to get in on that shit. :lol
 
longdi said:
kekekeke 6950 has been flashed to 6970! so easy in less than 10mins to get a fully working 6970. that should put me within 90% of GTX580 at 60% of the cost. :D
That's freaking awesome :lol
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top Bottom