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[MisterAnderson]

Amazon has the card for 10 dollars cheaper but that is the card. The card does support 3D now with HD3D. Support launched with the 6900 series. Physx is nice and I have used an Nvidia card for a long time now but jumped to the 6950 since it can unlock to 6970 and Physx is still so rare

Yeah true, and that's good to know that it supports 3D now as well. Another quick question though, there's two different 2GB 6950's on Amazon, the one that I posted in the link earlier and this one: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004JMZXLG/?tag=neogaf0e-20

It's labeled as "Turbo" and is more expensive. What's the difference? Is it just like...pre-overclocked or something?

And I'm thinking about Xfire-ing...but I'd like to just buy one then wait maybe a couple of months and get another one. I'm worried though that if I wait that ATI will "fix" the 6950's to not be unlockabe anymore. I should probably just buy the two now.

 

[mkenyon]

Yeah, checking the specs on HIS's website, looks like it's OC'd to 840mhz over 800mhz. Not worth the extra money, especially since you can squeeze that out yourself if you need to.

Why X-Fire? If you aren't running at crazy high res or using eyefinity (which is also running at crazy high res), there really is zero reason. Had my fair share of troubles with that and SLI, going to stick to a high-performance single card from here on out.

 

[MisterAnderson]

Yeah, checking the specs on HIS's website, looks like it's OC'd to 840mhz over 800mhz. Not worth the extra money, especially since you can squeeze that out yourself if you need to.

Why X-Fire? If you aren't running at crazy high res or using eyefinity (which is also running at crazy high res), there really is zero reason. Had my fair share of troubles with that and SLI, going to stick to a high-performance single card from here on out.

I just figured why not? If it has issues then maybe that's reason enough to avoid it. What kind of issues does X-fire have? I suppose I could get like a 580 or something up there with the money it would cost to X-Fire two 6950's but I figured two of those cards would be faster than one really good card? I know it's overkill but with Crysis 2 on the verge of release and Battlefield 2 later this year I wanted to make sure I was prepared.

Logically I'd prefer to just buy the one card, then use it single for a while then possibly upgrade to X-Fire down the line. But I'm worried about AMD revising the card and making it not unlockable anymore.

 

[iNvid02]

cant believe how comfy the 360 pad is, i've been using it for about a week now on various pc games and its great. before this i hated it and thought ds3 was king.

only thing they need to improve imo is the d-pad, make it more like the ds3 (which i think they've already done with the transforming d-pad), and sort out the lb/rb buttons, again make em a bit softer like ps3's l1/r1. that would make it perfect

 

[Dog Problems]

For people with SSD's, do you use CCleaner and how often do you use and at what settings? I've read elsewhere that the Secure File Deletion and Wipe Free Space features can hurt the drive, and then elsewhere they're perfectly safe.

 

[Corto]

Just checking in to post that I've finally joined the PC crowd. Yayyyy.... My i7 870/GTX570/8GB puppy finally got home. It's so nice to install a fresh windows (I've been an exclusive Mac user for the last 10 years) on a machine without any bloat or fat and slowly installing my Steam library on it.

Just a few questions if some of you guys can bother to answer:

The rivatuner is still recommended? I noticed that the last version is from 2009.

Can you guys recommend me a nice and easy to setup backup program?

 

[Hazaro]

MSI Afterburner. It's Rivatuner with new paint.

 

[iNvid02]

goal achieved, and to think my last system was a dell at 2.8ghz.

 

[Corto]

MSI Afterburner. It's Rivatuner with new paint.

Thanks Hazaro already downloaded. I've noticed though that D3DOverrider isn't included in Afterburner. Is it because there's no need to enbla triple buffering and vsync as this Brain_Stew thread recommended back in 2009?

 

[Pollux]

i've actually been interested in building a gaming PC for a while now, so this thread is coming at a very good time. Don't really know anything about building a PC so I'll be following this thread with interest. Thanks OP

 

[knitoe]

goal achieved, and to think my last system was a dell at 2.8ghz.

What voltage are you running and is it Prime95 stable for a few hours? Some great temps if it's under full load.

 

[LiquidMetal14]

What voltage are you running and is it Prime95 stable for a few hours? Some great temps if it's under full load.

With a push/pull config, dual fans, COOLER MASTER 212 (in the OP), I've been capping at 62C at 4480mhz OC on my 2500k. I got the splitter cable coming tomorrow so both fans will run in tandem so bare that in mind (non sync'd fans atm).

 

[iNvid02]

What voltage are you running and is it Prime95 stable for a few hours? Some great temps if it's under full load.

went through prime 95 for 30mins no probs but im gonna do an 1hr to be sure.
load was 80% while rendering/making a rar, prime takes it to about 70 degrees

the reason for the temps is my noctua d14. its spinning at 100% because its 3pin
and cant be controlled by the motherboard 4pin connectors. i didnt like it at first but
realized the noise was pretty much the same as my last dell. so i just leave it like that
for some great cooling.

 

[whatsinaname]

For people with SSD's, do you use CCleaner and how often do you use and at what settings? I've read elsewhere that the Secure File Deletion and Wipe Free Space features can hurt the drive, and then elsewhere they're perfectly safe.

What do you want to use CCleaner for?

If you want free space,

Turn off Hibernation
Decrease Space allotted to Volume Shadow Copy


I've been using this install of Windows 7 (on an Intel G2) for about a year+ now. Haven't ever found the installation bloated.

 

[knitoe]

With a push/pull config, dual fans, COOLER MASTER 212 (in the OP), I've been capping at 62C at 4480mhz OC on my 2500k. I got the splitter cable coming tomorrow so both fans will run in tandem so bare that in mind (non sync'd fans atm).

That's about normal temp for ~4.5GHz because you only need <1.35V. I can run 4.5Ghz@1.27V, 4.8GHz@1.37V, but haven't tried 5GHz because didn't want to go above 1.4V. It's much more, generally >1.45V, for 5GHz so temp is normally >10C higher.

went through prime 95 for 30mins no probs but im gonna do an 1hr to be sure.
load was 80% while rendering/making a rar, prime takes it to about 70 degrees

the reason for the temps is my noctua d14. its spinning at 100% because its 3pin
and cant be controlled by the motherboard 4pin connectors. i didnt like it at first but
realized the noise was pretty much the same as my last dell. so i just leave it like that
for some great cooling.

What's your voltage? And, run prime95 for 3-4 hours to be really sure.

 

[iNvid02]

That's about normal temp for ~4.5GHz because you only need <1.35V. I can run 4.5Ghz@1.27V, 4.8GHz@1.37V, but haven't tried 5GHz because didn't want to go above 1.4V. It's much more, generally >1.45V, for 5GHz so temp is normally >10C higher.


What's your voltage? And, run prime95 for 3-4 hours to be really sure.

idles at 1.24v and peaks at 1.52

 

[TheExodu5]

idles at 1.24v and peaks at 1.52

That's some very heavy voltage. Hope you know what you're doing.

 

[ChoklitReign]

Thanks Hazaro already downloaded. I've noticed though that D3DOverrider isn't included in Afterburner. Is it because there's no need to enbla triple buffering and vsync as this Brain_Stew thread recommended back in 2009?

I thought you did need D3DOverride. I find it hard to believe it is the only way to enable TB in DX games.

 

[·feist·]

I'm really surprised to see so many of you considering your OCs stable after barely stress testing it. 5min? 30min? 1-2hrs?

This is the board I have: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...ark=&IsFeedbackTab=true&Page=9#scrollFullInfo
It says it has 2 16x 2.0 PCI-e ports, but then goes on to say 1 @ 16x and 1 @ 4x.

Physically, it's x16, but lane wise it runs at x4. So your board is xfire ready, but with a second card installed, overall performance will be stunted.




Super Flower's 550w, 80 Plus Platinum-rated SF-550P14PE PSU went on sale a few days ago:

It's essentially the same unit that's been re-branded as the Kingwin Lazer Platinum 550W (Model: LZP-550), and will show up as other models that Super Flower is an OEM for (mostly in Europe/Asia).


http://kingwin.com/products/cate/power_supplies/lzp_550.asp

 

[Stahsky]

Hey dudes. Not sure if this is the proper place to ask, but what the hell.

Trying to hook up my consoles to my monitor while repairing my PC. Is there a cheap solution to some sort of HDMI to VGA connection? Like an Adapter or something?

 

[Negator]

Ugh, that C300 is looking pretty good right now. In real world use it's pretty much going to be indistinguishable from a Vertex 2 or 3 right?

Edit: That promo code isn't working for the C300 128GB wtf

Edit2: The desktop memory promo code also didn't work, damn!

 

[mkenyon]

I just figured why not? If it has issues then maybe that's reason enough to avoid it. What kind of issues does X-fire have? I suppose I could get like a 580 or something up there with the money it would cost to X-Fire two 6950's but I figured two of those cards would be faster than one really good card? I know it's overkill but with Crysis 2 on the verge of release and Battlefield 2 later this year I wanted to make sure I was prepared.

Logically I'd prefer to just buy the one card, then use it single for a while then possibly upgrade to X-Fire down the line. But I'm worried about AMD revising the card and making it not unlockable anymore.

There's all sorts of compatibility issues that you'll run into with quite a few games. As I said, the only real reason to xfire/SLI is for super high resolution, or for bragging rights at the next LAN party. It doesn't equate to 2x as much power if you're going to be playing at 1680x1050 or 1920x1080. In fact, the benchmarks are very similar.

Graphics card choices right now to me are as follows. Ultimate performance = 580. Great performance:$ = 6970. Non obsessive (as in, you like to play games, not tweak systems and gawk over tech as a hobby) card that'll run everything amazingly = 560. Insano resolution/eyefinity setup = xfire'd 6970s. That's my not so humble and highly informed $.02.

 

[LiquidMetal14]

idles at 1.24v and peaks at 1.52

With my OC I lower at .902v and top out at 1.308v during peaks.

Average hovers in the 1.1-1.2 range with backgroud apps and such.

 

[mkenyon]

That's some very heavy voltage. Hope you know what you're doing.

I don't have a lot of experience with the new sandybridge procs, but recently at PDXLAN, ASUS's RoG division was there and they were doing a tutorial in their UEFI BIOS on how to overclock the 2500K to 5ghz. Basically, set it to 1.55 volts, 50x multiplier, 100mhz bus clock. They insisted that it was rock solid stable (did do a couple minutes of prime 95, I prefer to run it overnight for stability testing) and was very safe.

 

[slidewinder]

An "Overclock Version" power supply? C'mon.

 

[Hazaro]

An "Overclock Version" power supply? C'mon.

Makes sense considering it's insane efficiency. You sac some of that for more power.

 

[slidewinder]

Ohhhh, and those "80 Plus" efficiency ratings are real, independently-established measures. Shows how much I know.

 

[comrade]

idles at 1.24v and peaks at 1.52

I can't see 1.52 being safe at all for extended periods of time.

 

[The Big Rig]

This is the board I have: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...ark=&IsFeedbackTab=true&Page=9#scrollFullInfo
It says it has 2 16x 2.0 PCI-e ports, but then goes on to say 1 @ 16x and 1 @ 4x.

I have a similar motherboard setup. I also have two 5770's Crossfired. You can crossfire with no problem, but from what I've read, there's a threshold for how powerful a card you can put in that 4x slot. If you plan on getting a mid-range card like mine, the difference between a 16x slot and a 4x slot is fairly negligible. Here's a benchmark I bookmarked for reference: http://www.overclock.net/ati/772009-single-hd-5770-vs-crossfire-16x-3.html

It all depends on the data rate of the card vs. the rate of the PCI slot. Haz, please correct me if I'm wrong.

 

[TheExodu5]

I don't have a lot of experience with the new sandybridge procs, but recently at PDXLAN, ASUS's RoG division was there and they were doing a tutorial in their UEFI BIOS on how to overclock the 2500K to 5ghz. Basically, set it to 1.55 volts, 50x multiplier, 100mhz bus clock. They insisted that it was rock solid stable (did do a couple minutes of prime 95, I prefer to run it overnight for stability testing) and was very safe.

It might be safe. It might not. It's definitely some heavy voltage, and you could go down to around 1.3 probably if you bring the clocks to ~4.6GHz or so. If you plan on keeping the CPU for extended periods of time, I would probably dial it back a little bit.

Still...incredibly impressive overclock.

 

[Hero]

So at this point is it better off to wait until the new Sandy Bridge mobo's are out again? Looking to build a new rig not much more than 1000ish in the next month or two.

 

[mkenyon]

Yes, unless you want to go budget route (AMD).

 

[Stabby McSter]

My friends are about to build PC's and they're interested in AMD Bulldozer or whatever. I know nothing of the subject, so should they just wait for that or go with Intel?

 

[comrade]

My friends are about to build PC's and they're interested in AMD Bulldozer or whatever. I know nothing of the subject, so should they just wait for that or go with Intel?

If they're content to wait for Bulldozer I would just wait to see how they fare against the Sandy Bridge CPU's. It's still tough to find a P67 motherboard right now anyway.

 

[Dog Problems]

What do you want to use CCleaner for?

It's not about wanting more space. I just like to get rid of the "junk" that collects over time and would normally run CCleaner once a week to clear it out.

 

[antonz]

My friends are about to build PC's and they're interested in AMD Bulldozer or whatever. I know nothing of the subject, so should they just wait for that or go with Intel?

If they want AMD they can wait. I dont expect huge Gap performance wise between 8 Core Bulldozers and 4 Core Sandy Bridges. This fall the 6 and 8 Core Sandy Bridges come out and I am sure they will curb stomp Bulldozer.


Just put togeather my new 2500K system. Man Asus makes it too easy using their 1 button OC tools It boosted performance 21%. Can get another 5-600Mhz Out of it too if I wanted too. Running a steady 4Ghz atm.

 

[Veal]

Physically, it's x16, but lane wise it runs at x4. So your board is xfire ready, but with a second card installed, overall performance will be stunted.

I have a similar motherboard setup. I also have two 5770's Crossfired. You can crossfire with no problem, but from what I've read, there's a threshold for how powerful a card you can put in that 4x slot. If you plan on getting a mid-range card like mine, the difference between a 16x slot and a 4x slot is fairly negligible. Here's a benchmark I bookmarked for reference: http://www.overclock.net/ati/772009-...ire-16x-3.html

It all depends on the data rate of the card vs. the rate of the PCI slot. Haz, please correct me if I'm wrong.

Thanks for the replies guys! So it looks like I could CF if I wanted too. The question now becomes "should I CF"? I was planning on adding another 6870 to the mix. Would the overall system performance be so bad that the benefits of CF be made moot? Or is it a case of losing one or two frames here and there or more microstuttering?

 

[rossonero]

Hello guys, I've never overclocked before but with this system (i5-760/GTX460) I've always planned too. Until now I've hesitated to overclock because I only have one fan in the case and one fan on a Hyper 212+.

But last night I decided to try to reach 3ghz, which should be doable even with this cooling. So I raised the base clock from 133 to 143 and left the multiplier on 21. Left prime95 running for like 30 minutes and the temps reached 72. Still thought it was fine so I ran 3dMark06 and 11 and wasn't impressed with the results: got like an increase of 500 on the 06 and 50 on 3dMark11.

My plan was to leave prime95 running overnight if I was satisfied with the performance, but decided to go back to stock until I can get at least 3 more fans. My question is though since this CPU has Turbo mode must I overclock beyond 3.4ghz to see the difference? Since most of the games and programs out there are optimized for most two cores I mean.

 

[BloodySinner]

Super Flower's 550w, 80 Plus Platinum-rated SF-550P14PE PSU went on sale a few days ago

Just 550w? That's a shame.

 

[comrade]

Just installed my Noctua NH-D14. Had a Corsair H50 previously. My idle temps are up about 3 degrees but load temp under Prime95 is down about 8 degrees. Kinda strange.

 

[Corky]

Just installed my Noctua NH-D14. Had a Corsair H50 previously. My idle temps are up about 3 degrees but load temp under Prime95 is down about 8 degrees. Kinda strange.

Interesting, you went from water to air and got lower temps? What about the noise-level? I'm thinking about getting watercooling for my next build ( 1-2years )

 

[comrade]

Here's my temps at 4.8ghz. I was hitting 72-75 on my H50. I'm pretty happy considering no game will ever stress my processor this much. 1.4vcore.



Click for full-size.

 

[Rotanibor]

I was looking at basically copying the $600 build in the OP, is there anything I should change in that build before I go with it?

Also, is that build fully compatible with the Antec 300? Or would anybody recommend another tower thats in that lower price range?

 

[comrade]

Interesting, you went from water to air and got lower temps? What about the noise-level? I'm thinking about getting watercooling for my next build ( 1-2years )

http://www.overclock.net/air-cooling/694843-battle-royale-corsair-h50-vs-noctua.html

Really the H50 is kind of a joke. It's decent cooling but super quiet. The Noctua is louder but definitely livable for me. I'm usually wearing headphones anyway. I didn't do much research before buying the H50 but the consensus is pretty much if you're going to go water, go with a real waterblock setup.

 

[EatChildren]

You know what? Fuck it. Time to start putting some money aside, stop buying crap I dont need, sell some games I dont play, and work towards getting a new system.

Here's what I have and dont really think needs replacing at this moment; sound system, monitor, mouse/keyboard, and case. The case I'm using is an older model of the Antec P183, as listed in the op. I've had it for years, and I need to replace one of the dying fans, but air circulation otherwise seems fine. Its a sturdy case and I love it, and if I can fit stuff in it I'd rather keep it than have to splash out on a new case. Case experts; will my beloved Antec still be of suitable size?

That aside, I'm going to need to buy all the guts. PSU, motherboard, CPU, GPU, and RAM. I'll be playing my games at 1920x1080. I know I can go higher, but I dont really feel the need to upgrade my monitor just yet. I want something quite similar to the system I've had all these years; something that didn't cost me a small fortune, but is capable of maxing out games at the above resolution, stable framerates, and to last me for a good few years. As an additional note, my current PC was bought specifically to OC, so I'd be happy to OC a new system as well to get more bang for my buck.

I'd be paying in AU$. For future reference and my financial planning, does anybody want to give me a rough estimate of how much I should look at saving? ~AU$1000?

For what it's worth, my current setup is;
CPU: AMD64 X2 3800+ (OC'd)
RAM: 2GB DDR (OC'd, cant remember timings)
GPU: eVGA 8800GT 512mb (factory OC'd, and I'm pretty sure its dying)
MBO: Asus, cant remember the exact model number, but outdated as it doesn't support anything modern.
PSU: Really cant remember. Its been awhile.

TLDR; I'm tired of being stuck in the DX9, dual core, basic DDR dark ages, and my GPU is dying. Halp.

 

[Hazaro]

idles at 1.24v and peaks at 1.52

That's way too high imo. If some of the early reports that have come out suggest anything (OCUK), you might be burning out your chip in months rather than decades. I haven't read any further because higher than 1.3V on 32nm seems like madness to me.
I've said it before, but I'd suggest a conservative 1.25V load, 1.3V at the max.

Thanks Hazaro already downloaded. I've noticed though that D3DOverrider isn't included in Afterburner. Is it because there's no need to enbla triple buffering and vsync as this Brain_Stew thread recommended back in 2009?

To be honest I haven't kept up on Triple Buffering or anything. I do know that there is a global setting for TB on the new nVidia drivers though.
nVidia Inspector is the program to use now.

Just 550w? That's a shame.

There are some 750W Gold rated units.

http://www.overclock.net/air-cooling/694843-battle-royale-corsair-h50-vs-noctua.html

Really the H50 is kind of a joke. It's decent cooling but super quiet. The Noctua is louder but definitely livable for me. I'm usually wearing headphones anyway. I didn't do much research before buying the H50 but the consensus is pretty much if you're going to go water, go with a real waterblock setup.

I'd suggest getting some Noctua or Scythe low rpm <1200 fans. I bought some Kama 2's and they are fantastic. It's crazy how loud my old fans were and I wasn't really keen on noise at all. Yate Loons are a good budget alternative.

I was looking at basically copying the $600 build in the OP, is there anything I should change in that build before I go with it?

Also, is that build fully compatible with the Antec 300? Or would anybody recommend another tower thats in that lower price range?

I'd bump the PSU up to a 750W to enable xfire/sli as a later possibility, probably not very much as an increase. Otherwise all those budget parts are still solid.

You know what? Fuck it. Time to start putting some money aside, stop buying crap I dont need, sell some games I dont play, and work towards getting a new system.

Here's what I have and dont really think needs replacing at this moment; sound system, monitor, mouse/keyboard, and case. The case I'm using is an older model of the Antec P183, as listed in the op. I've had it for years, and I need to replace one of the dying fans, but air circulation otherwise seems fine. Its a sturdy case and I love it, and if I can fit stuff in it I'd rather keep it than have to splash out on a new case. Case experts; will my beloved Antec still be of suitable size?

That aside, I'm going to need to buy all the guts. PSU, motherboard, CPU, GPU, and RAM. I'll be playing my games at 1920x1080. I know I can go higher, but I dont really feel the need to upgrade my monitor just yet. I want something quite similar to the system I've had all these years; something that didn't cost me a small fortune, but is capable of maxing out games at the above resolution, stable framerates, and to last me for a good few years. As an additional note, my current PC was bought specifically to OC, so I'd be happy to OC a new system as well to get more bang for my buck.

I'd be paying in AU$. For future reference and my financial planning, does anybody want to give me a rough estimate of how much I should look at saving? ~AU$1000?

For what it's worth, my current setup is;
CPU: AMD64 X2 3800+ (OC'd)
RAM: 2GB DDR (OC'd, cant remember timings)
GPU: eVGA 8800GT 512mb (factory OC'd, and I'm pretty sure its dying)
MBO: Asus, cant remember the exact model number, but outdated as it doesn't support anything modern.
PSU: Really cant remember. Its been awhile.

TLDR; I'm tired of being stuck in the DX9, dual core, basic DDR dark ages, and my GPU is dying. Halp.

I'd go with the $1k build in the OP almost to the letter. Case should be fine (pretty sure the longer cards will just fit). I know some people in AUS could still get a hold of P67 boards.

If you can wait a few months you'll be better off thought, esp if you are saving up.
Don't buy parts until you are ready. (Unless some PSU or HDD goes on sale)

 

[EatChildren]

I'd go with the $1k build in the OP almost to the letter. Case should be fine (pretty sure the longer cards will just fit). I know some people in AUS could still get a hold of P67 boards.

If you can wait a few months you'll be better off thought, esp if you are saving up.
Don't buy parts until you are ready. (Unless some PSU or HDD goes on sale)

Awesome. I wont be buying for a few months, so I'll get an idea on what the best direction is then. At the moment its more a matter of setting a goal for funds and working towards it. I already have ~AU$400 ready.

I forgot to mention that I wont need a HDD either, as I got a new one only a couple of months ago.

 

[MisterAnderson]

So I got my i7 920 Bloomfield up to 4GHz. In the BIOS I have the CPU Vcore set to 1.31875, the QPI/Vtt Voltage to 1.295, the IOH Core at 1.000 and the DRAM Voltage at 1.64.

I basically copied the settings of someone doing a 4GHz tutorial video with that processor and it seems to work and be stable. My question is why when I open CPU-Z does the Core Voltage idle at 1.280 V but when I Prime95 it, the voltage actually goes down to 1.248? Especially if I have the Vcore voltage set to 1.31875 in the BIOS? Not that I'm complaining since lower voltage is better, but just wondering.

 

[Unknown Soldier]

So I got my i7 920 Bloomfield up to 4GHz. In the BIOS I have the CPU Vcore set to 1.31875, the QPI/Vtt Voltage to 1.295, the IOH Core at 1.000 and the DRAM Voltage at 1.64.

I basically copied the settings of someone doing a 4GHz tutorial video with that processor and it seems to work and be stable. My question is why when I open CPU-Z does the Core Voltage idle at 1.280 V but when I Prime95 it, the voltage actually goes down to 1.248? Especially if I have the Vcore voltage set to 1.31875 in the BIOS? Not that I'm complaining since lower voltage is better, but just wondering.

You are experiencing Vdroop. It's perfectly normal and nothing to be concerned about if your OC is stable. Many motherboards have a setting which reduce Vdroop from Intel's published guidelines, in my Gigabyte X58A-UD3R's BIOS it's called "Load Line Calibration".

If you really want to read about Vdroop, you can enjoy this mind-numbingly technical post about it. Otherwise just know that Vdroop is an integral part of Intel's processor designs and nothing to be concerned about, unless your OC is not stable, in which case you can fuck around with "Load Line Calibration" or whatever to see if you can stabilize your OC at a certain Vcore.

 

[MisterAnderson]

You are experiencing Vdroop. It's perfectly normal and nothing to be concerned about if your OC is stable. Many motherboards have a setting which reduce Vdroop from Intel's published guidelines, in my Gigabyte X58A-UD3R's BIOS it's called "Load Line Calibration".

I have Load Line Calibration in my voltage settings in my BIOS as well (Gigabyte EX58-UD4P) and it's set to disabled though... should it still be doing that if it's disabled?

Edit: I misread what you said. If I have it enabled it would reduce the Vdroop and bring the voltage up to what I set it to? Would it be better for me to just leave it disabled?