• Hey, guest user. Hope you're enjoying NeoGAF! Have you considered registering for an account? Come join us and add your take to the daily discourse.

"I need a New PC!" 2011 Edition of SSD's for everyone! |OT|

Status
Not open for further replies.
Hawk269 said:
Another noob question that I need some small help. My Asus MB came with 2 Sata 2 3GB cables and about 6 Sata 6gb cables. I used the 2 3gb for the DVD drive and the HDD, but need another one now. Can I use the 6gb cables on my Sata 3 Samsung HDD and ply them into the 3.0 sata ports?
SATA is mainly just SATA as far as cables go, or "SATA 2" is fine.
 

scogoth

Member
claviertekky said:
That was the issue with silver-based pastes as it would electrically conduct areas that didn't provide a direct contact from the cpu/gpu chip to the heatsink when the paste was applied improperly. With that, the chip would run hotter and in the long run like you said, would damage the chip. It has nothing to do with air bubbles.

By using a non-silver paste, that problem is averted as you can mess up the paste and not worry the paste touching parts it's not supposed to be. Also, you get the benefit of not needing to reapply the paste every year.

I've put together a lot of broken Xbox 360s with a non-silver based heatsink and assembled computers in my life time. If you're saying the pea-sized way I've been doing with non-silver based compounds is wrong, then a lot of things would have gone wrong by now.

Think theres some confusion between us, I totally agree with using the pea method.

There is another way of applying paste that only apply to heat direct pipe coolers that has confused some gaffers with the hyper 212 but the pea method works just fine with it.

EDIT: lol both posting/editing at the same time
 

clav

Member
scogoth said:
Think theres some confusion between us, I totally agree with using the pea method.

There is another way of applying paste that only apply to heat direct pipe coolers that has confused some gaffers with the hyper 212 but the pea method works just fine with it.
Yeah I gotcha in the second quote. No worries. :D
 

Hawk269

Member
·feist· said:
SATA is just SATA as far as cables go.

Ok. It's just that the Sata 6 cables ave whit tip ends with the sata 6 printed on them, I just did not want to harm anything useing Sata 6 cables and using them on a Sata 3 port/Sata 3 HDD.
 

clav

Member
GAF, does anyone here use a SSD drive that's affordable and comparable in speed to the upper tier ones?

I know I should be looking at drives that are either made by Intel (or rebranded) or Sandforce controller drives. Is there an affordable option or are these drives going to continue to drop in price?

Looking at ways to maximize my aging LGA 775 board or should I just jump ship for AM3? I don't want to waste 7GB of DDR2 memory.
 

scogoth

Member
Hawk269 said:
Ok. It's just that the Sata 6 cables ave whit tip ends with the sata 6 printed on them, I just did not want to harm anything useing Sata 6 cables and using them on a Sata 3 port/Sata 3 HDD.

What fiest means to say is SATA cables are fully backwards compatibly. Techinically SATA3(6gbps) are higher rated cables then SATA2(3gbps) cables but there are no issues with using SATA3 cables on SATA2 devices or ports.
 
Has anyone had any problems with HP monitors before? Maybe I'm going crazy, but it seems like most of my games on my LA2405 are way more jittery than they should be, regardless of what resolution I'm running at. Games running at 60+ fps look more like they're running at 30, and games that run at 30 fps (in Dolphin/PCSX2) look more like 15-20. I'm almost positive that the problem is with my monitor and not with my CPU/GPU since FRAPS says my games are running at high framerates and my processor usage when playing games isn't very high. I'm just wondering if this is something that can be fixed or if this is an unavoidable problem with cheaper LCDs.
 

scogoth

Member
claviertekky said:
GAF, does anyone here use a SSD drive that's affordable and comparable in speed to the upper tier ones?

I know I should be looking at drives that are either made by Intel (or rebranded) or Sandforce controller drives. Is there an affordable option or are these drives going to continue to drop in price?

Lol cheap ssds. Look at the Intel 320 series.
http://ncix.com/products/?sku=59825&vpn=SSDSA2CW080G310&manufacture=Intel
 

Hawk269

Member
scogoth said:
What fiest means to say is SATA cables are fully backwards compatibly. Techinically SATA3(6gbps) are higher rated cables then SATA2(3gbps) cables but there are no issues with using SATA3 cables on SATA2 devices or ports.

Thanks for clarifying that for me...much appreicated. Now off to hook up the 2nd HDD I had bought for the rig.
 

scogoth

Member
nincompoop said:
Has anyone had any problems with HP monitors before? Maybe I'm going crazy, but it seems like most of my games on my LA2405 are way more jittery than they should be, regardless of what resolution I'm running at. Games running at 60+ fps look more like they're running at 30, and games that run at 30 fps (in Dolphin/PCSX2) look more like 15-20. I'm almost positive that the problem is with my monitor and not with my CPU/GPU since FRAPS says my games are running at high framerates and my processor usage when playing games isn't very high. I'm just wondering if this is something that can be fixed or if this is an unavoidable problem with cheaper LCDs.

Are you running SLI or Crossfire?
 

rc213

Member
Not sure why but I set Q-Fan to on and Standard to make the fan automatically adjust to cpu temp. Started Prime95 and my cpu got up to around 70c and the fan never budged from 1100rpm. =[
 

knitoe

Member
http://benchmarkreviews.com/index.p...sk=view&id=170&Itemid=38&limit=1&limitstart=5


Below, shows why the pea technique doesn't work on heatsink with grooves even with pre-filling in gaps. Paste can't reach the corners of CPU.
HDT_TIM_Application_Center_Drop.jpg

HDT_TIM_Application_Center_Drop_Spread.jpg


For best results, article suggest using vertical lines after pre-filling the gaps.
HDT_TIM_Application_Two_Lines.jpg

HDT_TIM_Application_Two_Lines_Spread.jpg
 

eznark

Banned
I think someone posted a video of a 650d build back when I was debating cases. Anyone have that link again (or did I dream it).
 
rc213 said:
Not sure why but I set Q-Fan to on and Standard to make the fan automatically adjust to cpu temp. Started Prime95 and my cpu got up to around 70c and the fan never budged from 1100rpm. =[
Is it a PWM fan? If not, the board will simply run it in the range of 1,100rpm, or any other preset.


Hawk269 said:
Ok. It's just that the Sata 6 cables ave whit tip ends with the sata 6 printed on them, I just did not want to harm anything useing Sata 6 cables and using them on a Sata 3 port/Sata 3 HDD.
You quoted before my edit, but scogoth elaborated further.
 

scogoth

Member
blanky said:
I thought with the Sandybridge a total coverage of the CPU wasn't even necessary anymore? Just as long as you get the center like the first picture shows. But i'm not sure

You are right, the cores are only under the center of the CPU cap. In fact if you cover the entire CPU cap and the paste bleeds over you will actually increase CPU temps.
 

rc213

Member
·feist· said:
Is it a PWM fan? If not, the board will simply run it in the range of 1,100rpm, or any other preset.


You quoted before my edit, but scogoth elaborated further.


Yes I am using the stock Intel Heatsink/Fan for now.
 

tafer

Member
Newegg accepted my card!??!?! HELL YEAH!

(I'm including some small doubts about the build):

ASUS P8P67 (REV 3.0) LGA 1155 Intel P67 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard - $155
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131705
Is it compatible with the Case or should I get the M-ATX?

Intel Core i7-2600K Sandy Bridge 3.4GHz - $315
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819115070

CORSAIR Enthusiast Series TX650 V2 650W - $100
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139020
650W is enough?

G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) - $100
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231428

Intel 320 Series 2.5" 120GB SATA II MLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD) - $240
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820167050

LG Black 10X BD-ROM 16X DVD-ROM SATA Internal Blu-ray Disc - $70
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827136183
Is LG ok... or should I get another brand?

Windows 7 Pro - $140
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16832116758

ASUS ENGTX570 DCII/2DIS/1280MD5 GeForce GTX 570 (Fermi) 1280MB GDDR5 - $350
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814121432

Noctua NH-D14 120mm & 140mm SSO CPU Cooler - $90 (Out of stock, will get from Amazon)
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835608018

Fractal Design Define R3 Silver Arrow ATX Mid Tower Silent PC Computer Case - $100
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811352003

Total: $1660 + K/M... unexpectedly similar to amazon.


Checking the place I found this extremely similar PC (No SSD and the Windows version are the only relevant differences I noticed):

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16883229245
What's your opinion?
 

scogoth

Member
tafer said:
Newegg accepted my card!??!?! HELL YEAH!

(I'm including some small doubts about the build):

ASUS P8P67 (REV 3.0) LGA 1155 Intel P67 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard - $155
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131705
Is it compatible with the Case or should I get the M-ATX?

Intel Core i7-2600K Sandy Bridge 3.4GHz - $315
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819115070

CORSAIR Enthusiast Series TX650 V2 650W - $100
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139020
650W is enough?

G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) - $100
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231428

Intel 320 Series 2.5" 120GB SATA II MLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD) - $240
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820167050

LG Black 10X BD-ROM 16X DVD-ROM SATA Internal Blu-ray Disc - $70
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827136183
Is LG ok... or should I get another brand?

Windows 7 Pro - $140
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16832116758

ASUS ENGTX570 DCII/2DIS/1280MD5 GeForce GTX 570 (Fermi) 1280MB GDDR5 - $350
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814121432

Noctua NH-D14 120mm & 140mm SSO CPU Cooler - $90 (Out of stock, will get from Amazon)
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835608018

Fractal Design Define R3 Silver Arrow ATX Mid Tower Silent PC Computer Case - $100
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811352003

Total: $1660 + K/M... unexpectedly similar to amazon.


Checking the place I found this extremely similar PC (No SSD and the Windows version are the only relevant differences I noticed):

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16883229245
What's your opinion?

Looks good but save money on and get 2500k unless you need hyper threading for something
 

tafer

Member
scogoth said:
Looks good but save money on and get 2500k unless you need hyper threading for something

I was thinking in some virtual machines to run some intrusive software (Data base crap), mount random testing/programming environments and Linux.

As I like my main "configuration" (Games + interwebs + video) to be as clean as possible, I usually try to avoid software I'm not going to use often (programming) or just for some experimentation (linux) completely separated.
 
rc213 said:
Yes I am using the stock Intel Heatsink/Fan for now.
I've never run a stock cooler. If I'm not mistaken Intel uses PWM HSFs, so that's odd. A 4-pin cooler plugged into a 4-pin header should throttle up and down.

You can try the motherboard software utility or something like SpeedFan to control it in Windows.


tafer said:
Checking the place I found this extremely similar PC (No SSD and the Windows version are the only relevant differences I noticed):

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16883229245
What's your opinion?
The build you put together is a good deal better than that.
 

Hawk269

Member
momolicious said:
applying thermal paste seems very scary

lol..beleive me..I built my rig, my very first one and the scariest thing was the thermal paste, not sure if i used enough, too much, where I placed it on the heatsink (212+) etc. Everything else was cake, but yeah it was the worst. I think it is because there is alot riding on it and if you mess up, it is some work to redo it especially if you have a heat sink that was easy to put on before installing the mb. But in te end, my temps at idle are good, load temps are good so I am not going to worry about it...well at least for the time being. I think I keep obssessing about it that I could of done better and would my ems be even lower, but when comapring to others I fall in the average for both idle and load. So I just need to stop worrying about.
 

Pocks

Member
·feist· said:
In most cases, no. Generally, you would only see a benefit if you had poor airflow combined with hot components. The Shinobi is designed to easily move air from front to back. If you'll be going with an upper end CPU and/or GPU, I'd recommend getting an additional fan (or two). You can try it as a second front intake, or use it as a top fan in either exhaust or intake configs to see which gives you the best results.

Tool-less is not that big of a deal if you'll only be going with a small numbered combination of ODD, SSD, and HDD. If it was a flexible file server, or a PC where you'd be regularly accessing the drives, then it would likely be worth it to you.

Awesome, that's pleasing to hear. Any idea on which of the two would be more quiet?
 

R2D4

Banned
Just put a 212+ on my i5 2500k today. I just did like I always have done and put a small pea sized drop on the cpu and spread it out until it is a thin layer covering the whole CPU then put the heatsink on. So far in a Silverstone FT-02 my temps are around 40 at idle. Did the Intel Burn Test and they maxed out at 85. This is with it overclocked at 4.7Ghz. It is about 80 degrees F in this room though. Maybe I'll take the heatsink off and try a different way than I'm used to applying the paste.
 

Hawk269

Member
R2D4 said:
Just put a 212+ on my i5 2500k today. I just did like I always have done and put a small pea sized drop on the cpu and spread it out until it is a thin layer covering the whole CPU then put the heatsink on. So far in a Silverstone FT-02 my temps are around 40 at idle. Did the Intel Burn Test and they maxed out at 85. This is with it overclocked at 4.7Ghz. It is about 80 degrees F in this room though. Maybe I'll take the heatsink off and try a different way than I'm used to applying the paste.

Same 212+ as you, but with a 2600k and my idle is at 29 on all 4 cores. After and hour of prime my highest core hits 70, the other 3 are between 67-69. This is with a 4.5 OC. You idle temps seem a bit high though at least compared to the numbers I have seen of other users with the same cpu/heatsink.
 
R2D4 said:
Just put a 212+ on my i5 2500k today. I just did like I always have done and put a small pea sized drop on the cpu and spread it out until it is a thin layer covering the whole CPU then put the heatsink on. So far in a Silverstone FT-02 my temps are around 40 at idle. Did the Intel Burn Test and they maxed out at 85. This is with it overclocked at 4.7Ghz. It is about 80 degrees F in this room though. Maybe I'll take the heatsink off and try a different way than I'm used to applying the paste.
Sounds high to me, I would try it again (not sure which technique is best for the 212).
 

Kyaw

Member
Which 140mm fan is the quietest and move the most air these days?

The antec tri-cool 140mm on the lowest speed still makes a quiet but noticeable air turbulence noise on the Antec 300. Keeps the temps about 4-5C lower though.

I also removed the plastic and left only the grill of the 3.5'' slots to allow direct air flow to the TRUE intake.
 

Corky

Nine out of ten orphans can't tell the difference.
Is there any gain to be had in pushing your cpu from 4.6 to 5.0? On the subject of gaming ofc...
 

Kyaw

Member
Not gonna be that much of a difference, if it's putting too much extra strain on the CPU in terms of heat, might as well leave it at 4.6.
 

Salacious Crumb

Junior Member
I just evenly spread Thermal compound on the CPU with a latex glove and Have never run into any problems.

cRZiz.png


That's with a lapped TRUE 120 with 2 NF-P12s using the method I described above.
 

knitoe

Member
opticalmace said:
Sounds high to me, I would try it again (not sure which technique is best for the 212).
Does seem high, but we are missing the most important info which is what voltages (idle & loaded) is being used.
 

Zeliard

Member
i5 2500k is one mean piece of tech. I cranked it up to 4.6ghz with the stock fan and have been gaming all weekend. Great temps + very stable.
 

scorcho

testicles on a cold fall morning
R2D4 said:
Just put a 212+ on my i5 2500k today. I just did like I always have done and put a small pea sized drop on the cpu and spread it out until it is a thin layer covering the whole CPU then put the heatsink on. So far in a Silverstone FT-02 my temps are around 40 at idle. Did the Intel Burn Test and they maxed out at 85. This is with it overclocked at 4.7Ghz. It is about 80 degrees F in this room though. Maybe I'll take the heatsink off and try a different way than I'm used to applying the paste.
What volts are you running the chip at? Same heatsink, same chip but at 4.3ghz @ 1.26V i get

idle - 30-40C
full load - 50-60C

with a constant 8-10C variance between Core 0 and Core 4.
 

Kyaw

Member
Salacious Crumb said:
I just evenly spread Thermal compound on the CPU with a latex glove and Have never run into any problems.

cRZiz.png


That's with a lapped TRUE 120 with 2 NF-P12s using the method I described above.

What are your ambient temps?
 

irishcow

Member
Originally Posted by R2D4:
Just put a 212+ on my i5 2500k today. I just did like I always have done and put a small pea sized drop on the cpu and spread it out until it is a thin layer covering the whole CPU then put the heatsink on. So far in a Silverstone FT-02 my temps are around 40 at idle. Did the Intel Burn Test and they maxed out at 85. This is with it overclocked at 4.7Ghz. It is about 80 degrees F in this room though. Maybe I'll take the heatsink off and try a different way than I'm used to applying the paste.

Same 212+ as you, but with a 2600k and my idle is at 29 on all 4 cores. After and hour of prime my highest core hits 70, the other 3 are between 67-69. This is with a 4.5 OC. You idle temps seem a bit high though at least compared to the numbers I have seen of other users with the same cpu/heatsink.

You can't really compare prime vs. intel burn test though. Intel burn test will make your cpu a lot hotter than prime.

edit: screwed up the quote but it was my first time using it! Got it right this time.
 

Kyaw

Member
Damn, people live in really cold temps. Loads of my friends also like the cold.
My ambient temps are about 20-21 here in British Summer time and i get about 28-30C on my stock TRUE with one Sharkoon fan.
 

scorcho

testicles on a cold fall morning
irishcow said:
You can't really compare prime vs. intel burn test though. Intel burn test will make your cpu a lot hotter than prime.
from what I've read it seems that Prime95 using SmallFFTs works Sandy Bridge a bit harder (higher temps) than Intel Burn Test.
 

Bankoiia

Member
I know next to nothing about building computers so I would really like to hear your opinion on these two. They are mostly similar so I've highlighted the differences. I want to be able to use the Black Magic Intensity Pro card for capturing and streaming video from my PS3 to sites like Justin.tv, but from what I've heard it's not compatible with every type of motherboard(?). Will probably want to use it for some PC-gaming as well and maybe try that Dolphin emulator out. Will any of these do? What can I do better?

Cooler Master HAF X Big Tower Svart
Corsair HX 750W PSU
ASUS P8P67, Socket-1155
Intel Core™ i5 Quad Processor i5-2500K
Crucial DDR3 1333MHz 8GB KIT, CL9

Corsair H70 Hydro Series CPU Kylare
Gigabyte GeForce GTX 580 1536MB PhysX
Corsair SSD Force Series™ F60, 60GB
Western Digital Caviar® Green™ 1TB
Sony Optiarc DVD±RW Burner, AD-5260S



Cooler Master HAF X Big Tower Svart
Corsair HX 750W PSU
ASUS P6X58D-E, Socket-1366
Intel Core™ i7 Quad Processor i7-960

Corsair H70 Hydro Series CPU Kylare
Corsair XMS3 DDR3 1600MHz 12GB CL9
Gigabyte GeForce GTX 580 1536MB PhysX
Western Digital Caviar® Blue 500GB
Corsair SSD Force Series™ F60A, 60GB
OEM SSD 2.5" to 3.5" Bracket SATA
Sony Optiarc DVD±RW Burner, AD-5260S

Thanks for any help!
 

Funky Papa

FUNK-Y-PPA-4
I just disassembled my Logitech keyboard to clean it thoroughly. I could see some nastiness lurking in between the keys, but I wasn't quite ready for what I found after three years with no mainteinance. No wonder why compressed air couldn't do shit.

Sweet Jesus.

Hairy guys, clean your keyboards oftenly, specially if you eat at your desk.
 

Aruarian Reflection

Chauffeur de la gdlk
Zeliard said:
i5 2500k is one mean piece of tech. I cranked it up to 4.6ghz with the stock fan and have been gaming all weekend. Great temps + very stable.

Posts like this make me think I'm doing something wrong =/

Is mid-80 temps with Prime 95 acceptable with stock fan? I only set it at 4.0 ghz. Idle temps at 3.3 ghz are high 30s so I don't think I set my fan incorrectly.
 
Funky Papa said:
I just disassembled my Logitech keyboard to clean it thoroughly. I could see some nastiness lurking in between the keys, but I wasn't quite ready for what I found after three years with no mainteinance. No wonder why compressed air couldn't do shit.

Sweet Jesus.

Hairy guys, clean your keyboards oftenly, specially if you eat at your desk.

Or just buy a new keyboard every year or few years. They aren't expensive.
 

Funky Papa

FUNK-Y-PPA-4
I don't like to throw away good hardware. I keep my keyboards until they break or I manage to erase its letters (my corded Wave already lost four, but I still manage...)
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top Bottom