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[Sanic]

Wow, color me disappointed. It looks like my GPU was the culprit for my JC2 performance woes. Putting object detail at anything above medium is what destroys my performance. But it sort of feels like the game is poorly optimized or something. It has nothing to do with the complexity of the structures or anything. If a tiny hut comes into view, my framerate literally is cut in half from ~60 to ~30.

 

[EatChildren]

Colour me as someone who's also a bit disappointed. New PC build smokes most everything, but I was really hoping I could max out Amnesia. Performance is pretty weak maxed out, which is really disappointing. I expected better.

 

[eznark]

Colour me as someone who's also a bit disappointed. New PC build smokes most everything, but I was really hoping I could max out Amnesia. Performance is pretty weak maxed out, which is really disappointing. I expected better.

That's probably an Amnesia issue, not an issue with your rig.

 

[EatChildren]

That's probably an Amnesia issue, not an issue with your rig.

Most likely. I'm always so anal and paranoid about new hardware I buy, because I've had such an awful history of having to replace parts, to the point where I automatically assume something will be broken when it arrives.

 

[Zeliard]

Posts like this make me think I'm doing something wrong =/

Is mid-80 temps with Prime 95 acceptable with stock fan? I only set it at 4.0 ghz. Idle temps at 3.3 ghz are high 30s so I don't think I set my fan incorrectly.

How's the air flow in your case?

 

[ExMachina]

Posts like this make me think I'm doing something wrong =/

Is mid-80 temps with Prime 95 acceptable with stock fan? I only set it at 4.0 ghz. Idle temps at 3.3 ghz are high 30s so I don't think I set my fan incorrectly.

What are your voltages/BIOS settings? Since your idle temps look okay, your HSF is probably seated properly... I remember getting high 60s with the stock fan with a 4.0GHz OC (all stock voltages).

 

[Zeliard]

What are your voltages/BIOS settings? Since your idle temps look okay, your HSF is probably seated properly... I remember getting high 60s with the stock fan with a 4.0GHz OC (all stock voltages).

Yeah if you're using some sort of auto-overclock make sure the voltages are set at decent levels.

 

[VibratingDonkey]

Is there a general guide for how to get the most efficient airflow? What fans to use, how many, where to place them, in or outtake etc.

 

[DaBuddaDa]

Is there a general guide for how to get the most efficient airflow? What fans to use, how many, where to place them, in or outtake etc.

You can google it and find numerous guides, but in general airflow is overrated and more times than not an excess of fans is useless, power draining and sometimes hinders temperatures. A strong intake in the front with a strong outtake in the back is enough for 90% of computers.

 

[Coldsnap]

So I'm starting to mess around with fan speeds and temperatures to get my computer as silent as possible but also cool. Only having problems with my stock cpu fan because it has a buzz sound, darn thing, what rpms though should i be shooting for on a cpu fan? It's at 6.5k rpm, wondering if i can take it lower.

Also I'm slowly hating speedfan, is there an alternative? Something with a ui like afterburner.

 

[Corky]

Most likely. I'm always so anal and paranoid about new hardware I buy, because I've had such an awful history of having to replace parts, to the point where I automatically assume something will be broken when it arrives.

Yeap, it actually took a lot of mental effort from my part but I've finally accepted that even with the most cutting edge rig there is a risk that the game youre playing might not be rocksolid 60fps all of the time. Which, more often than not, is totally based on software like the game and/or drivers instead of the hardware.

 

[anonnumber6]

Does anyone know who manufactures the Novatech branded PSUs?

 

[·feist·]

Does anyone know who manufactures the Novatech branded PSUs?

They've used different OEMs. I believe the majority have been built by Sirtech and FSP.

Awesome, that's pleasing to hear. Any idea on which of the two would be more quiet?

The standard version may be marginally quieter. It's all down to the quality of the window and how it's mounted. Budget cases don't exactly stand out in those areas.

Wow, color me disappointed. It looks like my GPU was the culprit for my JC2 performance woes. Putting object detail at anything above medium is what destroys my performance. But it sort of feels like the game is poorly optimized or something. It has nothing to do with the complexity of the structures or anything. If a tiny hut comes into view, my framerate literally is cut in half from ~60 to ~30.

Good to hear you got it sorted. Though keep in mind how much gaming and general performance gain you got from the new CPU, even before overclocking it.

I know next to nothing about building computers so I would really like to hear your opinion on these two. They are mostly similar so I've highlighted the differences. I want to be able to use the Black Magic Intensity Pro card for capturing and streaming video from my PS3 to sites like Justin.tv, but from what I've heard it's not compatible with every type of motherboard(?). Will probably want to use it for some PC-gaming as well and maybe try that Dolphin emulator out. Will any of these do? What can I do better?

Cooler Master HAF X Big Tower Svart
Corsair HX 750W PSU
ASUS P8P67, Socket-1155
Intel Core™ i5 Quad Processor i5-2500K
Crucial DDR3 1333MHz 8GB KIT, CL9
Corsair H70 Hydro Series CPU Kylare
Gigabyte GeForce GTX 580 1536MB PhysX
Corsair SSD Force Series™ F60, 60GB
Western Digital Caviar® Green™ 1TB
Sony Optiarc DVD±RW Burner, AD-5260S



Cooler Master HAF X Big Tower Svart
Corsair HX 750W PSU
ASUS P6X58D-E, Socket-1366
Intel Core™ i7 Quad Processor i7-960
Corsair H70 Hydro Series CPU Kylare
Corsair XMS3 DDR3 1600MHz 12GB CL9
Gigabyte GeForce GTX 580 1536MB PhysX
Western Digital Caviar® Blue 500GB
Corsair SSD Force Series™ F60A, 60GB
OEM SSD 2.5" to 3.5" Bracket SATA
Sony Optiarc DVD±RW Burner, AD-5260S

Thanks for any help!

AS long as the P67 board doesn't have any compatibility issues, the 1155 build would be the better option. Faster and more flexible CPU, that's better suited to Dolphin and other tasks. It also uses less power, while running cooler. If you need the 960's hyper-threading, you could opt for the 2600K instead of the 2500K.

If you won't be overclocking the CPU and GPU, you can step down to a 550-650W PSU (minimum 80+ Bronze, with 80+ Gold being preferable).

I wouldn't buy either WD Green or Blue. Take a look at the WD Blacks, R4 and Samsung F3 or F4. Cooling wise, the Corsair H70 isn't worth it. You can get comparable, or better, cooling for far less money. The top air coolers perform better at lower noise levels, while the new Antec KÜHLER H2O 620 (if you really want AIO water cooling) outperforms the Corsair H50, H60, and comes within 1-2c or less of the H70. That's with a smaller rad and single fan, versus the H70's larger rad and dual stock fans. If you only intend to OC the CPU a bit, you can pick up one of these three for ~$25-40. For a bigger OC while maintaining low load temps, you have a few options in the $55-80 range.

 

[Corky]

Hmm I've run into a snafu.

Turned on my pc and I got a cold reboot pre-post ( if thats the correct term ), after 1 reboot everything was fine and dandy. Checked my temps and my gpus are at 69 C full load in crysis 2 and my cpu glides around 40C.

Is this a cause for concern? The cold reboot that is.

 

[Ryuuga]

Here's what I'm planning on building in a couple weeks:

CPU
-Intel Core i7 2600K Quad Core Unlocked Hyperthreading Processor LGA1155 3.4GHZ Sandy Bridge 8MB

or - Intel Core i5 2500K Quad Core Unlocked Processor LGA1155 3.3GHZ Sandy Bridge 6MB

Motherboard
-ASUS P8P67 Deluxe ATX LGA1155 P67 3PCI-E16 2PCI-E1 2PCI Sandy Bridge B3 Motherboard

Memory
-(2x) G.SKILL F3-12800CL9D-8GBRL Ripjaws 8GB 2X4GB DDR3-1600 CL9-9-9-24 240PIN DIMM Memory

GPU
-EVGA GeForce GTX570 Superclocked 1280MB GDDR

Chassis
-Coolermaster Storm Sniper Black Edition Mid Tower ATX Case Black 5X5.25 5X3.5INT 1X2.5 No PSU

PSU
-Corsair TX750W 750W ATX 12V 60A 24PIN ATX Power Supply Active PFC 140MM Fan

Cooling
-Corsair Cooling Hydro Series H50 High Performance CPU Cooler System LGA1155 LGA1366 LGA1156 AM2 AM3

Storage
-OCZ Vertex 2 Extended Sandforce 60GB 2.5IN SATA2 Solid State Disk Flash Drive SSD

DVD Read/Write
-LG GH22NS50 Black 22X SATA DVD Writer OEM



Build sans GPU:
http://pc.ncix.com/pcbuilder/pcbuilderpreview.cfm?id=3427983&skus=57962-1-0|59314-1-0|44267-2-0|36044-1-0|44624-1-0|26415-1-0|44398-1-0|50895-1-0|40435-1-0|53308-1-0|7843-0

Total after tax (HST): $1845.27 CAD (subject to change based on FX)

Any thoughts?

 

[Misanthropy]

Would I need to raise the voltage on my 2500k if I'm planning on getting a stable 4.5 overclock? Heat isn't an issue in this case.

Here's what I'm planning on building in a couple weeks:

You don't need a 2600k unless you're making CG movies on it or you do some threading heavy tasks (ex. mathematica, prime95, movie editing, chess analyzing).

You should save yourself 10-20 dollars and get the regular 570 by EVGA since you can overclock it to what they got (and possibly even more) by yourself with the software that comes with Nvidia cards.

I don't know about the other things you got there but I just saved you around 140 dollars already.

 

[mrklaw]

Is there any gain to be had in pushing your cpu from 4.6 to 5.0? On the subject of gaming ofc...

Does any game make noticable use of a bump from stock to 4-4.5? I've left mine stock for now as I haven't read anything that suggests the 2500k is a bottleneck for anything

 

[DeadRockstar]

Hmm I've run into a snafu.

Turned on my pc and I got a cold reboot pre-post ( if thats the correct term ), after 1 reboot everything was fine and dandy. Checked my temps and my gpus are at 69 C full load in crysis 2 and my cpu glides around 40C.

Is this a cause for concern? The cold reboot that is.

Not unless it does it again or you get stuck in a boot loop. In that case your power is probably tripping somewhere and I'd look at the mobo first, then the PSU.

If it's a one off though, I'd say it's no issue really.

 

[Coldsnap]

My GTX 460 has a whine/buzz coming out of the card when it's running, turned off the fan and it still was audible.. wonder what it is, not very happy about that but at least my computer has some dampening foam.

 

[TouchMyBox]

Here's what I'm planning on building in a couple weeks:

CPU
-Intel Core i7 2600K Quad Core Unlocked Hyperthreading Processor LGA1155 3.4GHZ Sandy Bridge 8MB

or - Intel Core i5 2500K Quad Core Unlocked Processor LGA1155 3.3GHZ Sandy Bridge 6MB

Motherboard
-ASUS P8P67 Deluxe ATX LGA1155 P67 3PCI-E16 2PCI-E1 2PCI Sandy Bridge B3 Motherboard

Memory
-(2x) G.SKILL F3-12800CL9D-8GBRL Ripjaws 8GB 2X4GB DDR3-1600 CL9-9-9-24 240PIN DIMM Memory

GPU
-EVGA GeForce GTX570 Superclocked 1280MB GDDR

Chassis
-Coolermaster Storm Sniper Black Edition Mid Tower ATX Case Black 5X5.25 5X3.5INT 1X2.5 No PSU

PSU
-Corsair TX750W 750W ATX 12V 60A 24PIN ATX Power Supply Active PFC 140MM Fan

Cooling
-Corsair Cooling Hydro Series H50 High Performance CPU Cooler System LGA1155 LGA1366 LGA1156 AM2 AM3

Storage
-OCZ Vertex 2 Extended Sandforce 60GB 2.5IN SATA2 Solid State Disk Flash Drive SSD

DVD Read/Write
-LG GH22NS50 Black 22X SATA DVD Writer OEM



Build sans GPU:
http://pc.ncix.com/pcbuilder/pcbuilderpreview.cfm?id=3427983&skus=57962-1-0|59314-1-0|44267-2-0|36044-1-0|44624-1-0|26415-1-0|44398-1-0|50895-1-0|40435-1-0|53308-1-0|7843-0

Total after tax (HST): $1845.27 CAD (subject to change based on FX)

Any thoughts?

I did the same thing (w/ i7 2600k) but with a 120GB Vertex 2, and a Fractal Design R3 for $1600 after HST on sandy bridge launch day. I'm sure you can do much better than that. Shopbot it up and price match?

 

[Hawk269]

What volts are you running the chip at? Same heatsink, same chip but at 4.3ghz @ 1.26V i get

idle - 30-40C
full load - 50-60C

with a constant 8-10C variance between Core 0 and Core 4.

Scorho-

Same heatsink as you, but a 2600k and with a 4.5Oc at 1.29v I get on average 28-29c on idle and this letting it set for over an hour. On load with Prime, 1 core tops out at 70c. So for me, load temps with a slightly higher clock are higher than yours, but my idle is lower than yours.

 

[Ryuuga]

I did the same thing (w/ i7 2600k) but with a 120GB Vertex 2, and a Fractal Design R3 for $1600 after HST on sandy bridge launch day. I'm sure you can do much better than that. Shopbot it up and price match?

Thanks for the advice TMB and Misanthropy. Shopped around and managed to knock it down to $1637.21 after HST.

 

[Corky]

Not unless it does it again or you get stuck in a boot loop. In that case your power is probably tripping somewhere and I'd look at the mobo first, then the PSU.

If it's a one off though, I'd say it's no issue really.

Well it has done it maybe twice or so out of 20ish coldboots, and never during a regular manual reboot. As long as it doesnt really affect the hardware I don't care if it happens a few % of the time.

Does any game make noticable use of a bump from stock to 4-4.5? I've left mine stock for now as I haven't read anything that suggests the 2500k is a bottleneck for anything

I'd dare say going from 3.3 to 4.5 would definitely give you quite the headroom to become gpubound rather than cpubound.

 

[Hawk269]

Hmm I've run into a snafu.

Turned on my pc and I got a cold reboot pre-post ( if thats the correct term ), after 1 reboot everything was fine and dandy. Checked my temps and my gpus are at 69 C full load in crysis 2 and my cpu glides around 40C.

Is this a cause for concern? The cold reboot that is.

Corky, you have the ASUS P67 board right? If so that is normal. Since I only game on my rig, I do turn it off cause I dont game every day. But what it does it boots, then turns off and boots again. The first boot is applying the Overclock you set whichis a matter of seconds, the 2nd is the actual boot of the computer. If it does this more than once, then it is failing to apply the overclock for whatever reason. It tries 3 times and on the last try it boots to the bios telling you that the overclock failed, which then you hit a key to go into the actual bios utility to fix whatever the issue is.

But it freaked me out as well until I confirmed that this is what it is doing. I am currently using the TPU for the Auto overclock right now, been planning on doing a manual one to get to 4.6, but ave not had the time and and am still reading on how to do it.

 

[Corky]

Corky, you have the ASUS P67 board right? If so that is normal. Since I only game on my rig, I do turn it off cause I dont game every day. But what it does it boots, then turns off and boots again. The first boot is applying the Overclock you set whichis a matter of seconds, the 2nd is the actual boot of the computer. If it does this more than once, then it is failing to apply the overclock for whatever reason. It tries 3 times and on the last try it boots to the bios telling you that the overclock failed, which then you hit a key to go into the actual bios utility to fix whatever the issue is.

But it freaked me out as well until I confirmed that this is what it is doing. I am currently using the TPU for the Auto overclock right now, been planning on doing a manual one to get to 4.6, but ave not had the time and and am still reading on how to do it.

wow, a thousand times thank you what a great reply ! <3<3<3. Yeah man, I have the same board thanks for the information. Btw, which biosversion are you rolling with? I'm kinda ever so slightly dissapointed with my OC which I feel should be either on lower voltage or higher OC on the same voltage keeping in mind my HSF ( the noctua dh14 that weighs as much as a pony ). I was thinking that maybe the latest biosversion will improve stability or something but then again maybe the OC I got is perfectly "normal" given my circumstances.

Thanks again, I can atleast put this whole bootordeal to rest now.

<3

 

[eznark]

Corky, you have the ASUS P67 board right? If so that is normal. Since I only game on my rig, I do turn it off cause I dont game every day. But what it does it boots, then turns off and boots again. The first boot is applying the Overclock you set whichis a matter of seconds, the 2nd is the actual boot of the computer. If it does this more than once, then it is failing to apply the overclock for whatever reason. It tries 3 times and on the last try it boots to the bios telling you that the overclock failed, which then you hit a key to go into the actual bios utility to fix whatever the issue is.

But it freaked me out as well until I confirmed that this is what it is doing. I am currently using the TPU for the Auto overclock right now, been planning on doing a manual one to get to 4.6, but ave not had the time and and am still reading on how to do it.

Man I am glad I read this before building.

 

[Hawk269]

wow, a thousand times thank you what a great reply ! <3<3<3. Yeah man, I have the same board thanks for the information. Btw, which biosversion are you rolling with? I'm kinda ever so slightly dissapointed with my OC which I feel should be either on lower voltage or higher OC on the same voltage keeping in mind my HSF ( the noctua dh14 that weighs as much as a pony ). I was thinking that maybe the latest biosversion will improve stability or something but then again maybe the OC I got is perfectly "normal" given my circumstances.

Thanks again, I can atleast put this whole bootordeal to rest now.

<3

I will have to check, but it was whatever the latest version that was on ASUS website last week. I had the problem where the MB did not want to wake up from sleep mode, but the newer version fixed it for me.

Right now, I am using the TPU to apply the OC. I was thinking of using the setup that (I think it was you) was posted a few pages back. That was a 4.6 OC as well. I just have been hesitent since I never did a OC with a CPU, so when the TPU option was there, I did the easy way out for now. I have had zero issues with the auto-overclock as well and my temps are good with the 212+ cooler.

You know, going from stock speed of 3.4 to a 4.4/4.5 or in your case a 4.6 with the temps we have are actually really good oc based on comparisons i have read and the fact that even using the TPU to get almost a full 1.0 oc by hitting a switch and being 100% stable, even after running prime for hours is pretty amazing to me.

 

[Hawk269]

More info on the ASUS MB Double Post issue: This was from someone at ASUS in early January, claiming that a newer Bios would correct it, however some are still haveing the issue, but it does not harm anything. I have not tried tis fix below yet as I am heading out for the day....

Some of you may have been experiencing a double POST on your P8P67 series motherboard whereupon after powering on the system from a cold boot, the board will power on and then immediately reset itself before it actually POSTs and shows any display on the screen. I’ll explain the fix below and give some information about why this happens.

First, I would like to stress the importance of flashing the BIOS to the latest BIOS revision as listed on our support website, http://support.asus.com/download. You can access the ASUS EZ Flash tool from within the UEFI (advanced options, tools) to flash the BIOS from any removable device such as a USB flash drive.
From time to time we needed to implement full resets in order to maintain stability due to the architecture of the Sandy Bridge platform. For instance, the system may require one full reset when the PCH power has been cut during S5 power state. To fix the most common additional reset (double POST when powering on from off state), enter UEFI BIOS -> go to ‘Advanced’ tab -> go down to ‘APM’, press Enter -> enable the “Power on by PCIe.” function. Then press F10 to save & exit. After save & exit, let the system boot into Windows or other OS, then perform a proper shutdown: Start button -> Shut down. You will no longer have the double POST. We will fix this in an upcoming BIOS release.

Again this is from January and there have been a few updates to the Bios, but some are still having this "double post" issue, but it does not harm anyting and it is not causing any damage.

 

[TheExodu5]

Corky, you have the ASUS P67 board right? If so that is normal. Since I only game on my rig, I do turn it off cause I dont game every day. But what it does it boots, then turns off and boots again. The first boot is applying the Overclock you set whichis a matter of seconds, the 2nd is the actual boot of the computer. If it does this more than once, then it is failing to apply the overclock for whatever reason. It tries 3 times and on the last try it boots to the bios telling you that the overclock failed, which then you hit a key to go into the actual bios utility to fix whatever the issue is.

But it freaked me out as well until I confirmed that this is what it is doing. I am currently using the TPU for the Auto overclock right now, been planning on doing a manual one to get to 4.6, but ave not had the time and and am still reading on how to do it.

Yeah my old Asus board did the same thing. Kind of annoying, but not a big deal.

 

[Corky]

Thanks again mate. Also you're probably right, I should be happy and not too greedy with the OC, ~1.35v during full load prime95 blend and ~1v during idle, with 70C and 25C respectively is probably better than I think.

 

[knitoe]

Thanks again mate. Also you're probably right, I should be happy and not too greedy with the OC, ~1.35v during full load prime95 blend and ~1v during idle, with 70C and 25C respectively is probably better than I think.

Using 1.35V, those temp are good. What's the o/c speed?

 

[Corky]

Using 1.35V, those temp are good. What's the o/c speed?

46x multiplier
100 bclk

 

[knitoe]

46x multiplier
100 bclk

Looks like you have an average o/c chip. That's the luck of the draw.

 

[Corky]

Looks like you have an average o/c chip. That's the luck of the draw.

yeah that's how it is. I got ridiculously lucky with my i5-760, I don't quite remember the voltages but it was something like 1.2v 3.8ghz

oh well. Maybe a future bios update will help if I ever want it. But then again I'll be gpubound 99% of the time so maybe it's "pointless"

 

[Aruarian Reflection]

I have that double POST issue as well, except I didn't even know it was a problem. I just thought the motherboard booted up differently.

What are your voltages/BIOS settings? Since your idle temps look okay, your HSF is probably seated properly... I remember getting high 60s with the stock fan with a 4.0GHz OC (all stock voltages).

40 multiplier
100 bclk
~1.25 V (can't remember specific number because I tried it last week)

I would play around with OC today, but it's uncomfortably warm and my AC seems to be nonfunctioning. I don't even have a shirt on currently. Idle temps around 46-48C at 3.3 ghz =/

 

[Outdoor Miner]

Today I finally replaced some parts that I had been meaning to replace for quite some time.

Centurion 5 > HAF 912 (Have 2x 120mm intakes, 120mm rear exhaust, 200mm top exhaust)
Antec 500 > SeaSonic X-750

Temps have dropped 10-12 degrees on average.

I am VERY pleased with the 912, excellent bang for the buck.

Now just a few more months and all the SB goodies get paired with these 2 wonderful pieces of hardware.

 

[ithorien]

OCd today, got the 2500k to 4400 super stable and didn't feel like going further (mind you I went 42, then 44)

Idle at ~33, full load reached a maximum of 68.

Gpu however, holy crap this thing runs hot. Idle at 60, full load 85. EVGA GTX 570

Now I need to find out from Corsair if my chirping PSU needs to be RMAd.

 

[Shambles]

Wow, color me disappointed. It looks like my GPU was the culprit for my JC2 performance woes. Putting object detail at anything above medium is what destroys my performance. But it sort of feels like the game is poorly optimized or something. It has nothing to do with the complexity of the structures or anything. If a tiny hut comes into view, my framerate literally is cut in half from ~60 to ~30.

Sounds like it's malfunctioning. This performance doesn't match up what I see in different reviews and it comes in under what I get with my 4870 512mb. The 460 should completely outclass what I'm running. At this point I'd just RMA the GPU. Are you seeing the same problems with other games?

 

[iNvid02]

my 570s were around same temps, i just went with evga because of their lifetime warranty and general rep.

prob not doing that again because i dont need a lifetime warranty, will upgrade before that and most of their competitors are as good as if not better.

next time im going for a better cooler on the card, and price too

 

[Bankoiia]

AS long as the P67 board doesn't have any compatibility issues, the 1155 build would be the better option. Faster and more flexible CPU, that's better suited to Dolphin and other tasks. It also uses less power, while running cooler. If you need the 960's hyper-threading, you could opt for the 2600K instead of the 2500K.

If you won't be overclocking the CPU and GPU, you can step down to a 550-650W PSU (minimum 80+ Bronze, with 80+ Gold being preferable).

I wouldn't buy either WD Green or Blue. Take a look at the WD Blacks, R4 and Samsung F3 or F4. Cooling wise, the Corsair H70 isn't worth it. You can get comparable, or better, cooling for far less money. The top air coolers perform better at lower noise levels, while the new Antec KÜHLER H2O 620 (if you really want AIO water cooling) outperforms the Corsair H50, H60, and comes within 1-2c or less of the H70. That's with a smaller rad and single fan, versus the H70's larger rad and dual stock fans. If you only intend to OC the CPU a bit, you can pick up one of these three for ~$25-40. For a bigger OC while maintaining low load temps, you have a few options in the $55-80 range.

Thanks a lot for typing that up, I really appreciate it. If I skipped on water cooling entirely, would I make do with several.. let's say, Cooler Master Hyper 212+ instead? This might sound like a stupid question, so I apologize in advance.

 

[opticalmace]

Still undecided. ahhh. Got some birthday money.

Would it be a waste to go from Xfire 4870s to a 570? 1920x1200, e8500.

Thanks!

 

[TheExodu5]

Colour me as someone who's also a bit disappointed. New PC build smokes most everything, but I was really hoping I could max out Amnesia. Performance is pretty weak maxed out, which is really disappointing. I expected better.

Turn down SSAO samples. I have no idea why they let you turn it to 128...it's pointless and will murder performance on any system. Turn it down to 4 or 8 and you won't even notice a difference.

 

[·feist·]

Thanks a lot for typing that up, I really appreciate it. If I skipped on water cooling entirely, would I make do with several.. let's say, Cooler Master Hyper 212+ instead? This might sound like a stupid question, so I apologize in advance.

You're welcome. Don't get me wrong, a 212+ won't cool as well as an H70, but the three HSFs I linked to are all great for the money, particularly if you aren't planning on a big OC. Even if you were, you can do better without spending as much for an H70 with a few of the $55-80 options. The Hyper, Mugen and A70 provide more than enough cooling for most, and with the money saved you can get a larger SSD, put it elsewhere, or pocket the difference.

 

[Frostburn]

wow, a thousand times thank you what a great reply ! <3<3<3. Yeah man, I have the same board thanks for the information. Btw, which biosversion are you rolling with? I'm kinda ever so slightly dissapointed with my OC which I feel should be either on lower voltage or higher OC on the same voltage keeping in mind my HSF ( the noctua dh14 that weighs as much as a pony ). I was thinking that maybe the latest biosversion will improve stability or something but then again maybe the OC I got is perfectly "normal" given my circumstances.

Thanks again, I can atleast put this whole bootordeal to rest now.

<3

I have the Asus P8P67 board and I had the same issue where sometimes going from a cold boot it would "Double Boot". The latest BIOS fixed that, I did clear my CMOS before upgrading to the new BIOS but since then I've had no issues with it at all.

 

[TheExodu5]

The pricier coolers are more important if you're aiming for a near silent build. If you want near silence on a budget, the Mugen 2 is a great choice, but it's also massive and a bitch and a half to install.

 

[VitaminApple]

Just bought http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Samsung+-+27%22+LED+Monitor+-+Black/2099051.p?id=1218309759233&skuId=2099051&st=samsung%2027%20led&cp=1&lp=1. Holy shit this thing is huge and pretty!

 

[ColonelColon]

I can't seem to get rid of the stability problems I'm having with my computer. :/
No errors have turned up in RAM or HDD tests. I've reinstalled Windows, and tried a different PSU, motherboard, CPU, and RAM, but every game I play either crashes or stutters severely. I've seen a few BSODs as well. One of the error codes was 0x0000005 (memory access violation), and another was 0x0000008. I think Bulletstorm actually caused one of these BSODs a couple days ago. One of the games I've tried to play (Bioshock) won't even start. Do you think I should RMA my graphics card? I've had terrible luck with video cards so far. I've already had my graphics card replaced twice for artifacting.

 

[Saren is Bad]

PSU
CORSAIR HX Series CMPSU-850HX 850W ATX12V  $164.99


CPU
Intel Core i7-2600K Sandy Bridge 3.4GHz (3.8GHz Turbo Boost) 


Motherboard
ASUS P8P67 Deluxe (REV 3.0) LGA 1155 Intel P67 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX $239.99


Harddrives (with SSD and 2TB)
SAMSUNG Spinpoint F4 HD204UI 2TB 5400 RPM SATA 3.0Gb/s $79.99

*FOR OS* Crucial RealSSD C300 CTFDDAC064MAG-1G1 2.5" 64GB SATA III (SSD) $134.99


GPU
ASUS ENGTX570 DCII/2DIS/1280MD5 GeForce GTX 570 (Fermi) 1280MB 320-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video Card $349.99


RAM
G.SKILL Ripjaws Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1333 (PC3 10666) Desktop Memory  $84.99


CPU Cooler
COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 Plus RR-B10-212P-G1 "Heatpipe Direct Contact" $34.99


Disc Drive (with Bluray Drive)
HP 8X BD-ROM 16X DVD-ROM 48X CD-ROM $80.99


Case
Antec Three Hundred Black Steel ATX Mid Tower  $59.99

Total $1,230.91

---------------------------------------------------

Need some thoughts on this build. I'm getting the 2600k for sure, but everything else is still subject to change. My specific questions:

1) Is the Deluxe version of the ASUS motherboard worth the extra 60$ or so?

2) Is the case that I have picked up big enough for all of these parts with room for expansion? I picked a really cheap case and am willing to get a more expensive/better one.

3) Is the CPU cooler sufficient?

4) 850W or 750W PSU?

5) Are the new Intel SSDs worth the extra money? In the same vein, are there any go-to brands for any of these above parts?

Heh, this is my first time to build a computer from scratch. Money isn't an issue, so don't be afraid to suggest big upgrades or changes. Any links/resources are appreciated, I got all of my pricing from Newegg.com

 

[VitaminApple]

PSU
CORSAIR HX Series CMPSU-850HX 850W ATX12V  $164.99


CPU
Intel Core i7-2600K Sandy Bridge 3.4GHz (3.8GHz Turbo Boost) 


Motherboard
ASUS P8P67 Deluxe (REV 3.0) LGA 1155 Intel P67 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX $239.99


Harddrives (with SSD and 2TB)
SAMSUNG Spinpoint F4 HD204UI 2TB 5400 RPM SATA 3.0Gb/s $79.99

*FOR OS* Crucial RealSSD C300 CTFDDAC064MAG-1G1 2.5" 64GB SATA III (SSD) $134.99


GPU
ASUS ENGTX570 DCII/2DIS/1280MD5 GeForce GTX 570 (Fermi) 1280MB 320-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video Card $349.99


RAM
G.SKILL Ripjaws Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1333 (PC3 10666) Desktop Memory  $84.99


CPU Cooler
COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 Plus RR-B10-212P-G1 "Heatpipe Direct Contact" $34.99


Disc Drive (with Bluray Drive)
HP 8X BD-ROM 16X DVD-ROM 48X CD-ROM $80.99


Case
Antec Three Hundred Black Steel ATX Mid Tower  $59.99

Total $1,230.91

---------------------------------------------------

Need some thoughts on this build. I'm getting the 2600k for sure, but everything else is still subject to change. My specific questions:

1) Is the Deluxe version of the ASUS motherboard worth the extra 60$ or so?

2) Is the case that I have picked up big enough for all of these parts with room for expansion? I picked a really cheap case and am willing to get a more expensive/better one.

3) Is the CPU cooler sufficient?

4) 850W or 750W PSU?

5) Are the new Intel SSDs worth the extra money? In the same vein, are there any go-to brands for any of these above parts?

Heh, this is my first time to build a computer from scratch. Money isn't an issue, so don't be afraid to suggest big upgrades or changes. Any links/resources are appreciated, I got all of my pricing from Newegg.com

Don't worry too much about wattage on the PSU. You should worry more about amperage.

 

[Durante]

I wouldn't recommend a 64GB RealSSD, it's significantly slower than the 128 GB version. The new Intels aren't worth it compared to the RealSSD.