I'm playing bioshock with a touchpad right now. It's kind of impossible because of all the button presses you have to do. Also the WASD movement doesn't feel intutive to me compared to analog controls. Things will probably be better when I have a mouse but I would still prefer analog controls for movement while having the mouse be for aiming. I suppose I could get a xbox 360 controller but then that would suck for actually trying to aim at anything. A motion controller would come in handy right about now. Is there anyway for me to use my Wii mote to play bioshock on my laptop?
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"I need a New PC!" 2011 Edition of SSD's for everyone! |OT|
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apana said:
I like how you think motion control aiming is better than analog. Only bring that up cause its not =p. Get a wired xbox 360 controller. New 29-34, used 17 bucks (off of amazon US).
Or you can buy the wireless kit for PC (Receiver and wirelss xbox).
Or if you have a wireless xbox get the receiver on its own (bit harder to find..sometimes).
Trojita
Rapid Response Threadmaker
I'm having a real hard time even deciding if I want to pull the trigger for an SSD. I'm supposed to be saving up for a house.
If I was thinking about buying one today. The two choices that seemed the best for the price we're these two.
Crucial RealSSD C300 CTFDDAC128MAG-1G1 2.5" 128GB SATA III MLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD)
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820148349
Intel 320 Series SSDSA2CW120G3K5 2.5" 120GB SATA II MLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD)
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820167050
The Crucial can be bought for $200 and the Intel for $210. I really want good reliability but also decent speed.
I have this Motherboard if it makes a difference. I believe it is only SATA II.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16813136051
If I was thinking about buying one today. The two choices that seemed the best for the price we're these two.
Crucial RealSSD C300 CTFDDAC128MAG-1G1 2.5" 128GB SATA III MLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD)
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820148349
Intel 320 Series SSDSA2CW120G3K5 2.5" 120GB SATA II MLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD)
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820167050
The Crucial can be bought for $200 and the Intel for $210. I really want good reliability but also decent speed.
I have this Motherboard if it makes a difference. I believe it is only SATA II.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16813136051
Sarcasm said:
Motion control is superior to dual analog, at least for me. When I want to point at something (meaning aim) I can just literally point at it with a wii mote. Aiming with a stick is much harder, not to mention that moving two sticks around at roughly the same time gets confusing. I guess I'll have to learn how to use the 360 controller if I can't master WASD movement.
Serious question: now that SSD drives have actually dropped prices, is an OCZ Vertex II 120GB worth 200 eurobucks if I use my computer for teh internects, gaming and casual 2D design and drawing with a Wacom tablet? And, will I be able to dump/mirror my Windows 7 boot (the 100MB one) and "C:" partitions on it and call it a day so I can avoid reinstalling everything from scratch?
My current 250GB drive is starting to get old (already 5 years old) and I want to know if it's a good solution combining the SSD with a mid-range not too expensive 500GB hard drive or I'm better just getting 1TB or 1.5TB with no SSD at all.
My current 250GB drive is starting to get old (already 5 years old) and I want to know if it's a good solution combining the SSD with a mid-range not too expensive 500GB hard drive or I'm better just getting 1TB or 1.5TB with no SSD at all.
wandering goat
Member
I went to Canada Computers today and took a good long look at the GTX580, but finally realized that I don't really need it - it's more just my rampant consumer whore-ism that drove me to want it. Since I'm still playing Witcher 1 right now and have other things to do, I likely won't need that kind of power until close to next year, when Skyrim's out, so I'll wait until the next gen of GPUs come out and get full value then.
I did however pick up a Turbo Module (two small 80mm fans) for my Accelero S1 Ver 2 GPU heatsink to replace my jerry-rigged 120mm fan set-up. It's actually fairly quiet! I'm controlling it with my motherboard, and at idle it's a bit less than 1100 rpm, where it's just a tad louder than the rest of my system (it makes a very faint buzzing noise, setting it below 1100 rpm doesn't reduce it). It can get up to 1650 or so RPM, where it's a bit louder still, but not too much more. Definitely far quieter than my old quiet 120mm fan at its full 1200 rpm. It cools just as well too, which I attribute to the two fans covering more of the heatsink than a single larger fan. So for anyone with an Accelero S1, I'd recommend the turbo module for sure if you have a more modern GPU and thus need more than passive cooling.
I did however pick up a Turbo Module (two small 80mm fans) for my Accelero S1 Ver 2 GPU heatsink to replace my jerry-rigged 120mm fan set-up. It's actually fairly quiet! I'm controlling it with my motherboard, and at idle it's a bit less than 1100 rpm, where it's just a tad louder than the rest of my system (it makes a very faint buzzing noise, setting it below 1100 rpm doesn't reduce it). It can get up to 1650 or so RPM, where it's a bit louder still, but not too much more. Definitely far quieter than my old quiet 120mm fan at its full 1200 rpm. It cools just as well too, which I attribute to the two fans covering more of the heatsink than a single larger fan. So for anyone with an Accelero S1, I'd recommend the turbo module for sure if you have a more modern GPU and thus need more than passive cooling.
So i'm currently trying to decided on a monitor right now to buy for my new gaming pc and I'm looking at these few.. Was wondering if someone here knew a bit more about what makes a good monitor could help me out
23 inch LG IPS
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/LG+-+IPS+Series+23"+LED+Monitor/2031077.p?id=1218306466603&skuId=2031077
23 inch HP LED
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/HP+-+23...itor/1807039.p?id=1218293490939&skuId=1807039
would most say 23 inch is a good size? I dont plan on going any bigger than 27. I know some go 32 but I feel that would bother my eyes.
23 inch LG IPS
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/LG+-+IPS+Series+23"+LED+Monitor/2031077.p?id=1218306466603&skuId=2031077
23 inch HP LED
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/HP+-+23...itor/1807039.p?id=1218293490939&skuId=1807039
would most say 23 inch is a good size? I dont plan on going any bigger than 27. I know some go 32 but I feel that would bother my eyes.
Saren is Bad
Member
Trojita said:
I'd say Crucial SSD. Even though you only have SATA II now, you may upgrade down the line.
$2 bluetooth USB adapter from dealextreme + hookup your sensor bar (or buy a usb sensor bar)apana said:
Links are broken. I looked at this on Sunday and I went with the Intel 320.Trojita said:
I'll have it in this week and see what this SSD fuss is all about.
All things considered I think the Intel is the better drive for most.
Can you get an Intel 320 over there for a similar price?beje said:
SSD > no SSD
Also a 1TB (Samsung F3 or WD Black) is only $15 or $20 more than a 500GB so there's no reason to get a 500GB if you have cash for an SSD.
I use a RatPadz and I quite like it. I think it is $10 and $20 per respective model (shipping is deducted)Salaadin said:
ithorien said:
Seasonic makes Corsairs PSUs so $10 is not worth the branding.
·feist· said:
Yes! That means I'll be able to get any Z68 mobo, more selection the better.
Thats a real big limitation. Virtu doesn't need that... Swapping buffers during gaming is bound to increase latency.
Unknown Soldier
Member
Got my Intel 510 SSD today from Newegg. Reinstalling Windows 7 will be faster than ever I guess, or it will be exactly the same since the limiting factor is my optical drive and even a hard drive can run an optical drive to death. Shit's gonna be so real when I get everything reinstalled and operating. The only problem I have is that the SSD is 120GB and right now I'm running a couple of old-school WD Raptors 74GB in RAID 0 as my boot drive and even without any games on it I've almost filled it up with my applications and whatnot. It might be a tight squeeze to fit everything plus my MMOGs on the SSD. I hope to God I won't have to buy another SSD on Newegg when it comes up for sale again. Hmmm, maybe I could run 2x SATA III SSDs in RAID 0. :3
SuperSonic1305
Member
I'm going to try my first ever overclock tomorrow. I was thinking of getting my i7 930 to 3.5. Is that a safe level?
OK I tried swapping out my PSU and its a no go I still get the "AMD driver has stopped working thing" so I know its not that.
Apparently I can fix it by upping the idle clock speeds of the cards but I see no profile manager in CCC 11.4 how do I make profiles?
This is the fix I keep running into: http://www.overclock.net/amd-ati/771055-ati-display-driver-stopped-responding-has.html
Apparently I can fix it by upping the idle clock speeds of the cards but I see no profile manager in CCC 11.4 how do I make profiles?
This is the fix I keep running into: http://www.overclock.net/amd-ati/771055-ati-display-driver-stopped-responding-has.html
Baller. PhD
Banned
Well I'm about halfway through my build. Going to call a quits for tonight, this is taking longer than I planned. I accidentally bent some of the spreaders on my NH-D14 during installation, so that sucks. I'm pretty sure I botched the thermal compound too. Wish it came pre-applied.
*sigh* it's been a while...
And to answer your question Exodu5, you *could* theoretically fit two DirectCU II's inside the Define R3. It would be a TIGHT fit though and the top card's fans would literally be pushing against the back of the bottom card's board (assuming P8P67 Pro). But it could work as far as the IO panels are concerned. You'd have to use onboard audio though.
Sleep time. Hope all is well tomorrow.
*sigh* it's been a while...
And to answer your question Exodu5, you *could* theoretically fit two DirectCU II's inside the Define R3. It would be a TIGHT fit though and the top card's fans would literally be pushing against the back of the bottom card's board (assuming P8P67 Pro). But it could work as far as the IO panels are concerned. You'd have to use onboard audio though.
Sleep time. Hope all is well tomorrow.
I just tried it and it's really simple.ShdwDrake said:
In CCC make sure Advanced View is checked.
Go to Presets
Add new Preset.
Only part that differed for me was where my 'Profiles' folder was located. I found it in: C:\Users\Username\AppData\Local\ATI\ACE\Profiles
Now just edit the XML file like the post said by raising the idle clocks.
PM me if you need help.
Baller said:
I'm right there with you, botched my thermal compound too. I didn't fuck it up too bad though, because it's still working. Temps are ~30C with the 212+ under some usage, haven't checked max temp yet.
The Hyper 212+ is a pain in the ass to put on. The bracket that goes through the gap between the part that touches the cpu and the aluminum moved out of place the first time I put it on.
I'll post some pics later after I get everything installed.
Just built my first PC thanks to many helpful threads like these!
Kept it under $300 its been great so far after a few problems with installation.
But there seems to be a problem with my USB connections on the front of the case.
My phone wont be recognized but my flash drive will. I get a ""Device not recognized"
warning. Im wondering, can this be a problem on my end by messing up with the polarity of
the connection to the motherboard? My motherboard is a MSI 880g. Tried uninstalling the
drivers disconnecting it etc. The usb ports on the back/motherboard detect my phone btw.
Sorry if im not giving enough information right now will give out more after a goodnights rest
Thanks you for any help.
Kept it under $300 its been great so far after a few problems with installation.
But there seems to be a problem with my USB connections on the front of the case.
My phone wont be recognized but my flash drive will. I get a ""Device not recognized"
warning. Im wondering, can this be a problem on my end by messing up with the polarity of
the connection to the motherboard? My motherboard is a MSI 880g. Tried uninstalling the
drivers disconnecting it etc. The usb ports on the back/motherboard detect my phone btw.
Sorry if im not giving enough information right now will give out more after a goodnights rest
Thanks you for any help.Conflict NZ
Member
On startup my PC currently shows the RAID configuration screen and the disk management screen. Is there any way to disable these as they slow down startup considerably.
AwesomeSauce
MagsMoonshine
Salaadin said:
Try putting double stick tape (the thin transparent kind) on your desk and position the mousepad on top(make sure to put tape at the edges of the pad and in the center. I did that to my old mouse pad which did everything you described and the tape kept it from curling up and moving.
Stantron
Member
My i7-2600K running at 3.40Ghz and 1.192V.
CPU temp is 51.0 C
MB temp is 31.0 C
system performance set to "normal" and sitting idle.
Are my temps higher than usual? IIRC, I remember people posting temp values much lower. I really hope I put the CPU grease on correctly. Any advice on how to proceed would be appreciated. Going to bed now, gonna check in tomorrow.
CPU temp is 51.0 C
MB temp is 31.0 C
system performance set to "normal" and sitting idle.
Are my temps higher than usual? IIRC, I remember people posting temp values much lower. I really hope I put the CPU grease on correctly. Any advice on how to proceed would be appreciated. Going to bed now, gonna check in tomorrow.
I figured i could ask this here.
I'm looking for a headset, I would primarily be using it for music and PC gaming second so audio quality is the most important thing for me.
Now so far these are the 3 choices I've come up with, each one with very different prices.
Siberia v2
$90
Logitech G930
$127
Sennheiser PC350
$180
I'm going to assume the Sennheiser headset has the best audio quality but i don't have a dedicated sound card, would the Logitech headset be a better buy for someone like me? Any other headset recommendations?
I'm looking for a headset, I would primarily be using it for music and PC gaming second so audio quality is the most important thing for me.
Now so far these are the 3 choices I've come up with, each one with very different prices.
Siberia v2
$90
Logitech G930
$127
Sennheiser PC350
$180
I'm going to assume the Sennheiser headset has the best audio quality but i don't have a dedicated sound card, would the Logitech headset be a better buy for someone like me? Any other headset recommendations?
Hazaro said:
Yup, Intel 320 Series is same price for same capacity (Intel 510 Series, and Vertex III for that matter, go for 250 per 120GB). Is the Intel 320 much better than the Vertex II?
Also, about the "SSD > no SSD" stuff, does it really hold up for real life usage with noticeable performance gain or is it still a "hey brah look at my benchmark results" kind of tech?
Also, still waiting response about dumping my Win7 partitions on it to avoid full reinstall.
FreeNAS server is up and running.
6x 3TB Hitachi drives
2x 30gb SSDs used for ZFS cache (didn't buy them for it, had them left over from an upgrade to a bigger SSD in 2010)
In Raid-z, which is similar to Raid-5. 1 Disk fault tolerance. Everything is encrypted too, getting 70-80 megabytes/s over gigabit lan, not bad.
SolarPowered
Member
Hi, I made a post here a while back asking for some info, but I never got a response. I figured this thread would give me the best answers for some new questions that I have so here I go. The new AM3+ mobos have just been announced and I knew they were coming. I also discovered that the mobo I have set in my wishlist actually has an onboard GPU that beats my old one by a country mile. I also just found out about the bulldozer and the possibility of an eight core processor. I already had an AM3 mobo in my wishlist along with a thuban 3.2Ghz six core processor. Would it be best to wait it out until the new CPU and Mobo tech is affordable? I know it seems like I'm moving the bar, but I'm willing to give it some time if it means I can get the most bang for my buck. I'll post my wishlist and extra info in the hopes that people might point out some of the inevitable oversights on my part.
My previous post if anyone is curious...
http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showpost.php?p=26683815&postcount=10269
This is what I've come up with so far with a bit of searching on newegg...
It comes to $698 for those who are curious. I think I want to wait as long as possible until the 6950 drops in price.
This is my current tech(way old I know)...
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16834220303
My previous post if anyone is curious...
http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showpost.php?p=26683815&postcount=10269
This is what I've come up with so far with a bit of searching on newegg...
It comes to $698 for those who are curious. I think I want to wait as long as possible until the 6950 drops in price.
This is my current tech(way old I know)...
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16834220303
Manp
Member
mike23 said:
FreeNAS server is up and running.
6x 3TB Hitachi drives
2x 30gb SSDs used for ZFS cache (didn't buy them for it, had them left over from an upgrade to a bigger SSD in 2010)
In Raid-z, which is similar to Raid-5. 1 Disk fault tolerance. Everything is encrypted too, getting 70-80 megabytes/s over gigabit lan, not bad.
well that's great and all but a Q6600 for a NAS? that seems a bit overkill :O not to mention that's going to use a lot more power compared to your typical NAS.
were you able to properly setup the dlna server with freenas? last time i tried dlna support was very lacking. getting it to work with different clients (XBMC, WDTV, PS3, 360, WMP) was a mess, with some settings it worked for some but completely broke support for others...
Manp said:well that's great and all but a Q6600 for a NAS? that seems a bit overkill :O not to mention that's going to use a lot more power compared to your typical NAS.
were you able to properly setup the dlna server with freenas? last time i tried dlna support was very lacking. getting it to work with different clients (XBMC, WDTV, PS3, 360, WMP) was a mess, with some settings it worked for some but completely broke support for others...
Haven't tried dlna yet. I probably won't bother with it because I have my TV hooked up to my PC as a third monitor, so no point playing it through my ps3 or 360.
I'm using the Q6600 because it was part of my previous desktop. I upgraded my desktop at the same time and used the old parts for the NAS. My kill-a-watt says it's drawing 110watts with me copying over a bunch of files.
Plus my electricity is included in my rent
USB only goes in 1 way.wanders said:Just built my first PC thanks to many helpful threads like these!
Kept it under $300 its been great so far after a few problems with installation.
But there seems to be a problem with my USB connections on the front of the case.
My phone wont be recognized but my flash drive will. I get a ""Device not recognized"
warning. Im wondering, can this be a problem on my end by messing up with the polarity of
the connection to the motherboard? My motherboard is a MSI 880g. Tried uninstalling the
drivers disconnecting it etc. The usb ports on the back/motherboard detect my phone btw.
Sorry if im not giving enough information right now will give out more after a goodnights rest
Did you install drivers? Are you using the original USB cord with the phone?
Sometimes front ports don't give enough power, do the back ports pick up the phone?
CCleaner + startupConflict NZ said:
320 yesbeje said:
No idea on SSD. I'll be getting mine tomorrow.
Can't think about Win 7 right now.
Get headphones + a mic. Really opens up your options.Zel3 said:
I thought you got helped?SolarPowered said:Hi, I made a post here a while back asking for some info, but I never got a response. I figured this thread would give me the best answers for some new questions that I have so here I go. The new AM3+ mobos have just been announced and I knew they were coming. I also discovered that the mobo I have set in my wishlist actually has an onboard GPU that beats my old one by a country mile. I also just found out about the bulldozer and the possibility of an eight core processor. I already had an AM3 mobo in my wishlist along with a thuban 3.2Ghz six core processor. Would it be best to wait it out until the new CPU and Mobo tech is affordable? I know it seems like I'm moving the bar, but I'm willing to give it some time if it means I can get the most bang for my buck. I'll post my wishlist and extra info in the hopes that people might point out some of the inevitable oversights on my part.
My previous post if anyone is curious...
http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showpost.php?p=26683815&postcount=10269
This is what I've come up with so far with a bit of searching on newegg...
It comes to $698 for those who are curious. I think I want to wait as long as possible until the 6950 drops in price.
This is my current tech(way old I know)...
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16834220303
Either way, chill for 3-4 weeks and see what Bulldozer does.
Uh, I'm not sure if this thread is appropriate for this, but I trust you guys more than randomly signing up on some tech forum.
I got a handmedown laptop for free, and I'm thinking of doing a RAM upgrade on it to boost performance. Specs:
Intel Core 2 Duo T4200 - 1M Cache, 2.00 GHz, 800MHz FSB
Seagate Momentus Thin T022 - 320GB, 5400rpm, 16MB
Windows 7 Ultimate 64-bit
The RAM in question is a 1GB stick of DDR2-667 - pretty meagre considering my basement RAM usage is around 550MB, and that shoots to 800 if I ever so much as bat an eyelash at a program. I think 2GB would be sufficient, but if its practical to upgrade to 3GB, I wouldn't say no either.
My question is in regards to the importance of matching RAM - brands, capacities, speeds, etc.
Matching Capacity: Should I just add a 1GB stick of 667? Would mismatching the 1GB stick with 2GB cause any problems?
Matching Speeds: Am I right in assuming that you'll bottleneck if you try to match a stick of 667 with a stick of 800? Then, a more general question: would it be worthwhile to upgrade to 800?
Matching Brands: I think I already know this, but just to be clear: the brand of RAM doesn't mean a thing, does it?
If none of this matching stuff matters, I'll probably get a 2GB stick of 667 and call it a day, but I'd just like to get some confirmation beforehand.
Thanks in advance for your guys' help, I'll let you guys get back to discussing real PCs
EDIT: I just realized something I hadn't thought about! If mismatching capacities is a no-no, would it be better to go 2x1GB or 1x2GB (regardless of speed)?
I got a handmedown laptop for free, and I'm thinking of doing a RAM upgrade on it to boost performance. Specs:
Intel Core 2 Duo T4200 - 1M Cache, 2.00 GHz, 800MHz FSB
Seagate Momentus Thin T022 - 320GB, 5400rpm, 16MB
Windows 7 Ultimate 64-bit
The RAM in question is a 1GB stick of DDR2-667 - pretty meagre considering my basement RAM usage is around 550MB, and that shoots to 800 if I ever so much as bat an eyelash at a program. I think 2GB would be sufficient, but if its practical to upgrade to 3GB, I wouldn't say no either.
My question is in regards to the importance of matching RAM - brands, capacities, speeds, etc.
Matching Capacity: Should I just add a 1GB stick of 667? Would mismatching the 1GB stick with 2GB cause any problems?
Matching Speeds: Am I right in assuming that you'll bottleneck if you try to match a stick of 667 with a stick of 800? Then, a more general question: would it be worthwhile to upgrade to 800?
Matching Brands: I think I already know this, but just to be clear: the brand of RAM doesn't mean a thing, does it?
If none of this matching stuff matters, I'll probably get a 2GB stick of 667 and call it a day, but I'd just like to get some confirmation beforehand.
Thanks in advance for your guys' help, I'll let you guys get back to discussing real PCs
EDIT: I just realized something I hadn't thought about! If mismatching capacities is a no-no, would it be better to go 2x1GB or 1x2GB (regardless of speed)?
catapult37
Member
I did my homework; I really did. I wanted a 6950 2GB to unlock to 6970. Have had my build about a week, OC'd the 2500k, ready to flash the gpu. No bios switch. WTF?
I researched it on newegg, but bought on tigerdirect for a rebate. And guess what? XFX makes a non-reference 2GB. Can you spot the difference?
XFX HD-695X-CNFC Radeon HD 6950 Video Card - 2GB, DDR5, PCI-Express 2.1 (x16), HDMI, Dual DVI, 2x Mini DisplayPort, DirectX 11, Dual-Slot, CrossFireX Ready
vs
XFX HD-695A-CNFC Radeon HD 6950 Video Card - 2GB, DDR5, PCI-Express 2.1 (x16), HDMI, Dual DVI, 2x Mini DisplayPort, DirectX 11, Dual-Slot, CrossFireX Ready
FUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUU-
SOOO PISSED RIGHT NOW.
I researched it on newegg, but bought on tigerdirect for a rebate. And guess what? XFX makes a non-reference 2GB. Can you spot the difference?
XFX HD-695X-CNFC Radeon HD 6950 Video Card - 2GB, DDR5, PCI-Express 2.1 (x16), HDMI, Dual DVI, 2x Mini DisplayPort, DirectX 11, Dual-Slot, CrossFireX Ready
vs
XFX HD-695A-CNFC Radeon HD 6950 Video Card - 2GB, DDR5, PCI-Express 2.1 (x16), HDMI, Dual DVI, 2x Mini DisplayPort, DirectX 11, Dual-Slot, CrossFireX Ready
FUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUU-
SOOO PISSED RIGHT NOW.
Gunmonkey36
Member
catapult37 said:
Ouch! That really is rather unfortunate. A one character difference.
I'm not condoning fraud or anything, but maybe if you have a warranty on it, and you just recently noticed the card was broken
you perhaps could get money back or store credit that you could use to buy a reference card. If it perhaps is indeed "broken". XD
catapult37
Member
Gunmonkey36 said:
I already cut off the UPC for the rebate. :-( I've read some threads about doing a shader-only unlock, but it sounds a bit iffy. I'm about to buy another 6950 off a friend, so I know CF will rock either way, but his is unlocked and I really wanted 2x 6970s....
I have sadness.
Go here: http://www.kingston.com/hauton said:
Search for memory.
2GB should be ok. If it can support 4GB it will help Win 7 a bit.
More RAM is better if the laptop can run dual channel.
:[catapult37 said:
This is why the one in the OP is an "A". Looks like it is now OOS though.
The stock fan is quite good and more than adequate. It blows a decent amount of air.CrankyJay said:
If you want a quieter set of two I'd get Scythe Kama Flow's or Noctua's <1500rpm
Budget fan are Yate Loon Low/Mid speed.
Faster is not really needed beyond the stock fan and gives negligible temp improvement.
SuperSonic1305
Member
So I did my overclock. 3.519 160x22. I left everything else on auto. Do I have to fiddle with the voltages or is it fine just changing those settings? Stress test was going well but my temp got up to 92 degrees before I stopped it. Should I lower the settings?
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