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[Wallach]

Just followed this guide to OC my i5 750.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Llqhe3N1cJA

Bumped it to 3.7GHz like in the video.

I have a Scythe Mugen II Rev B cooler with one fan on it, and with Prime95 Running the maximum heat test my CPU sits at ~67-69. Is that fine? At idle it's at about ~30-35 I believe?

I have a spare fan lying around... is there any way to connect 2 fans to the one CPU_FAN header so they both run the same?

http://i.imgur.com/h2TTQ.png

The Vcore (the 1.376 Core Voltage showing in CPU-Z) is quite high for your overclock. It's likely causing a significant increase in temperatures and almost certainly isn't necessary. I run my i5-750 at 3.6Ghz (20 x 180 Bclk) on 1.23 Vcore and it could probably go lower than that on my chip and remain stable. I would drop it to something like 1.25 at least then run tests (I prefer Intel Burn Test which uses Linpack, and will stress quite a bit better than Prime95) to see where you can get it while remaining stable.

Edit - 20 x 180 Blck, not 18 x 200 Blck.

 

[WEGGLES]

The Vcore (the 1.376 Core Voltage showing in CPU-Z) is quite high for your overclock. It's likely causing a significant increase in temperatures and almost certainly isn't necessary. I run my i5-750 at 3.6Ghz (18 x 200 Bclk) on 1.23 Vcore and it could probably go lower than that on my chip and remain stable. I would drop it to something like 1.25 at least then run tests (I prefer Intel Burn Test which uses Linpack, and will stress quite a bit better than Prime95) to see where you can get it while remaining stable.

Would I need to change any of the other voltages, or just that one?

 

[Felix Lighter]

I just did the automated thing he said to do. How hard is it to optimize the voltages? And is it worth it (how much cooler might it run? Other advantages?)

If you leave your vcore voltage on auto it will typically be higher than it needs to be and sometimes significantly so. To optimize the voltage you would simple step it down incrementally until a stress test fails, when that happens, step it back up to the last stable voltage. I'd say its worth it. It will decrease the wear and tear on your cpu.

 

[Confusatron]

Thanks, got it.



You sure you can't fit both to make it 8-pin? I have the non-PRO and for the 8-pin power connector, the ground connectors are oriented on the top. The black wires on the PSU power plug should represent the ground wires.

Non-PRO connectors:
SAAS (ground)
ASSA (+12V DC)

8-pin power plug (Corsair VX550W):
SA AA (black wires)
AS AA (yellow wires)

The squares on the power plug match-up.

edit: here's an article detailing the differences.
http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html#eps8

Thanks for the info. What was throwing me off was the right half of the mobo plug. Since the cable was all rounded but the mobo had two rounded and two squares, I assumed they weren't a match. But you're right, they do fit. And the article you linked confirms that this is fine.

Thank you very much!

 

[zlatko]

I got the plantronics gamecom 367 from amazon for $25. I really like it. I am in the process of swapping the speakers in it for some koss ksc75 drivers. Great comfortable headset with a fold away mic.

Thanks for the reply. I ended up getting these:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16826181012

I'll invest in some sort of microphone later on. Maybe just a small clip on one I can put on the collar of my shirt so I can chat. I assume I can make voice chat come through my head phones and just use the mic piece for the voice.

 

[Wallach]

Would I need to change any of the other voltages, or just that one?

You could probably leave the others on auto. If you want I can reboot and tell you where I have mine set at, but all chips are different and what is stable on my end may not be stable on yours. CPU-Z won't report anything but the Vcore, but typically I will leave the PLL and PCH alone (1.8v and 1.1v IIRC) and my VTT is a bit lower than my Vcore (I want to say like 1.19v but I'd have to double check).

 

[Mobius1B7R]

I got everything together and it's running beautifully but the temps I think are a bit high. I'm on the desktop with 2 monitors running (no games) and my 6950 (Bios flashed) is at 59C. Should I turn off the auto fan speed and crank it up or is that normal? Also, I OCed the i5 2500k to 4.00 and sitting on the desktop with a firefox window up and iTunes it's running around 38c. Are these temperatures too high? The heatsink seemed seated right, it wasn't moving around and all the pushpins went through. Maybe I should get a better CPU cooler.

 

[Kalnos]

I got everything together and it's running beautifully but the temps I think are a bit high. I'm on the desktop with 2 monitors running (no games) and my 6950 (Bios flashed) is at 59C. Should I turn off the auto fan speed and crank it up or is that normal? Also, I OCed the i5 2500k to 4.00 and sitting on the desktop with a firefox window up and iTunes it's running around 38c. Are these temperatures too high? The heatsink seemed seated right, it wasn't moving around and all the pushpins went through. Maybe I should get a better CPU cooler.

What's the voltage? That's not a dangerous temperature at all, but I'm just curious since you said it was basically idle.

 

[Mobius1B7R]

What's the voltage? That's not a dangerous temperature at all, but I'm just curious since you said it was basically idle.

Vcore shows 1.06 on HWMonitor. Cpu usage is hovering around 10%.

 

[Hazaro]

Those respective idle temps are just fine.
Keep the GPU under 90C load and the CPU under 60C

 

[Mobius1B7R]

Those respective idle temps are just fine.
Keep the GPU under 90C load and the CPU under 60C

Okay, I just ran prime95 and the temps shot up to around 90c......that cannot be good.

 

[knitoe]

Okay, I just ran prime95 and the temps shot up to around 90c......that cannot be good.

That's way too high. Mine max out at 68C running 4.6@1.296V. Can't wait for 2nd fan to use as push & pull on CM 212+. What cpu cooler are you using?

 

[Hazaro]

Okay, I just ran prime95 and the temps shot up to around 90c......that cannot be good.

Reseat the CPU. Something is up.

To make sure, take the motherboard out of the case and check that the pins have locked on the bottom side (painful I know).

 

[Mobius1B7R]

Reseat the CPU. Something is up.

To make sure, take the motherboard out of the case and check that the pins have locked on the bottom side (painful I know).

When I put it in, it looked like they all went through. I'll take it apart and look. Using the stock cooler.

 

[jiien]

I'm still trying to hunt down this GTX 460 issue. I got one BSOD, nvdlkm.sys something, which is apparently a well-known issue. That makes it sound driver related. However, I'm still getting solid colors stuck on the screen, after ten minutes of heavy load or so.

I just want to be sure this is a faulty card, and not a driver issue, before I RMA it, because RMA'ing would be a pain in the ass for me right now.

If the screen locks to one solid color, typically the color that was predominant on the screen at the time, what does this sound like?

 

[knitoe]

When I put it in, it looked like they all went through. I'll take it apart and look. Using the stock cooler.

And, I notice you are running 6GB ram. Is that with 3 sticks?

 

[Hazaro]

When I put it in, it looked like they all went through. I'll take it apart and look. Using the stock cooler.

Did you mount it by pushing in the pics in 1,4,2,3?
e.g.
1 2
3 4

Also the tips of the plastic might LOOK like they are seated (and won't actually move), but they can still not be in all the way. You need a good amount of force.

I'm still trying to hunt down this GTX 460 issue. I got one BSOD, nvdlkm.sys something, which is apparently a well-known issue. That makes it sound driver related. However, I'm still getting solid colors stuck on the screen, after ten minutes of heavy load or so.

I just want to be sure this is a faulty card, and not a driver issue, before I RMA it, because RMA'ing would be a pain in the ass for me right now.

If the screen locks to one solid color, typically the color that was predominant on the screen at the time, what does this sound like?

Try driver sweeper and reinstall drivers. But it does sound like a faulty card.

 

[iNvid02]

just ordered a 128gb crucial c300, it was gonna be this or a new g3 intel coming next month but i found a 7% discount code for crucial lol.

 

[TheExodu5]

I loathe the stupid plastic pins on stock coolers. Aftermarket cooler or bust.

 

[Mr Nightman]

My suggestion is the 922, not only because it is what I have, but the 5.25 bays are far easier to use, you get a top exhaust fan as well, and the looks of the front are a bit better.

Well just looked up the 922, and it really is a better value at 90 after 10 dollar savings, considering it comes with 200 mm fans already installed, which are like 20-30 each separate

 

[Emitan]

UPS tracking says my parts are at home. Just one more hour until I can leave work and build a computer completely by myself for the first time. I had some help from a friend with my current computer, and because I was just taking his mobo, cpu and RAM I never had to seat the CPU myself so I'm a bit nervous about that.

I'm not planning on overclocking for the moment, so should I worry about the heatsink? I can just order a heatsink when I need one.

 

[Slayer-33]

I loathe the stupid plastic pins on stock coolers. Aftermarket cooler or bust.

If the locking mechanism wasn't shit (intel stock garbage hsf's) then maybe it would be acceptable.


I'm doing fine with my stock amd cooler though, even oc'd (1055T)

 

[Mobius1B7R]

And, I notice you are running 6GB ram. Is that with 3 sticks?

Have 3...left over from a previous build. I reseated it and it still seems to be too high. I'm going to tear it apart after work I guess.

Question about the pins though, do twist them in the opposite direction of the arrow to install them?

 

[Ikuu]

It's probably because you're using the stock cooler, with my Frio I'm sitting around 64c at 4.6GHz.

 

[Mobius1B7R]

I went ahead and ordered a Hyper 212. Better safe than sorry I guess.

 

[WEGGLES]

I loathe the stupid plastic pins on stock coolers. Aftermarket cooler or bust.

Yeah, they're dumb.

Super easy if they work. A pain in the rump if they don't.

I'd rather turn a few screws and be done with it.

 

[Hazaro]

Have 3...left over from a previous build. I reseated it and it still seems to be too high. I'm going to tear it apart after work I guess.

Question about the pins though, do twist them in the opposite direction of the arrow to install them?

No, you just push them in. You twist to unlock the heatsink.
Its on the manual.

 

[Grimm Fandango]

Installing Windows 7...

so far so good.

*continues to cross fingers*

 

[TheExodu5]

It's probably because you're using the stock cooler, with my Frio I'm sitting around 64c at 4.6GHz.

Nah it's out of range even then. Maybe a defective cooler or improper installation.

With stock, I was getting about 55-60C under load (not overclocked, obviously).

 

[Mobius1B7R]

No, you just push them in. You twist to unlock the heatsink.
Its on the manual.

That's what I wasn't so sure of. The gigabyte manual didn't word it very well. I heard 4 clicks and everything. Hmm. I'll rip it apart when I get home from work anyways to be sure, it's going to bother me all night.

 

[TheExodu5]

That's what I wasn't so sure of. The gigabyte manual didn't word it very well. I heard 4 clicks and everything. Hmm. I'll rip it apart when I get home from work anyways to be sure, it's going to bother me all night.

The CPU comes with a manual that explains that.

I wasn't sure either...it would make more sense to push then lock, but it's the other way around. =\

 

[Mobius1B7R]

The CPU comes with a manual that explains that.

I wasn't sure either...it would make more sense to push then lock, but it's the other way around. =\

I read the manuals before I put it all in and it seemed to seat correctly. Actually it might have been a little too easy for pushpins...took me like 20 minutes to get mine on an E8400. Oh well. Thanks for the help guys.

 

[WEGGLES]

That's what I wasn't so sure of. The gigabyte manual didn't word it very well. I heard 4 clicks and everything. Hmm. I'll rip it apart when I get home from work anyways to be sure, it's going to bother me all night.

The arrows point in the direction you turn to remove the cooler. Kind-of confusing.

A Lock and Unlock icon would've been better.

 

[jiien]

Try driver sweeper and reinstall drivers. But it does sound like a faulty card.

Is Furmark not a good stability test? I can run it for over ten minutes, where the temperature of the card pretty much stays around 60 degrees. But it still solid color screens about a minute into Crysis Warhead. Hm...

 

[Wallach]

The CPU comes with a manual that explains that.

I wasn't sure either...it would make more sense to push then lock, but it's the other way around. =\

Those fucking plastic tabs are the worst, least favorite stock cooler ever. Total garbage, rid yourself of it as soon as possible.

 

[Krauser Kat]

Push Pins make you think your breaking your mobo. As big as the Noctua is it was easier to install than the stock cooler that came with it.

 

[-viper-]

Is static electricity really a killer?

I was disassembling my PC because I put the individual parts on eBay so I could get money to purchase a newer PC (BARELY GOT ANYTHING FOR MY ONCE £1000 PC (E6600, 2GB RAM etc) but pretty much just used my hands (and screwdriver) and that's it.

I hope I haven't damaged any of the parts.. but what are the chances? High risk or low risk?

 

[mclaren777]

That's way too high. Mine max out at 68C running 4.6@1.296V. Can't wait for 2nd fan to use as push & pull on CM 212+. What cpu cooler are you using?

Would it be possible to run a push/pull on the 212+ and make it quieter (slower rotations) than using just one fan by itself? And would the CPU also be cooler running with said push/pull setup?

 

[Wallach]

Is static electricity really a killer?

I was disassembling my PC because I put the individual parts on eBay so I could get money to purchase a newer PC (BARELY GOT ANYTHING FOR MY ONCE £1000 PC (E6600, 2GB RAM etc) but pretty much just used my hands (and screwdriver) and that's it.

I hope I haven't damaged any of the parts.. but what are the chances? High risk or low risk?

It can be, but generally if you static shock something you'll know it just by feeling the transfer (like any other minor static shock). You can avoid general buildup by wearing a static bracelet or simply touching something like metal on the inside of your case.

 

[Haint]

Is Furmark not a good stability test? I can run it for over ten minutes, where the temperature of the card pretty much stays around 60 degrees. But it still solid color screens about a minute into Crysis Warhead. Hm...

Yea that has been my experience as well, I assume it's a rather poor stability test. I've run an OC on it for half an hour with no issues, but Heaven's bench crashed it within 30 seconds every single time.

 

[Slayer-33]

.

90c? lol?

That doesn't seem right, even on with a stock cooler.

 

[·feist·]

I wouldn't wish push-pins on my worst enemy.



So the all-in-one water cooling market has completed shifted in the last week or so.

After the success of their Hydro series, Corsair has parted ways with Asetek (OEM for H50 and H70) to partner up with former retail rival, CoolIt Systems, for the new H60 and a full line of products that will look familiar to anyone who has used or seen CoolIt's wares before - like the new Corsair Link.

It's a bit strange, as CoolIt's products have regularly been outperformed by their former Asetek-made equivalents, but the design of the new Corsair is supposed to make for improved numbers. As part of Corasir and CoolIt's new union, CoolIt systems will pull out of the retail space.

You'd think this could be a great time for Asetek to make a retail push. Instead, they've now partnered with Antec to create the Antec KÜHLER H2O series, with the first offering being the KÜHLER H2O 620. Antec also intends to release at least one 240mm rad model; something that Corsair obviously never did, even though both Asetek and CoolIt have had 240mm rads for some time now.

If that wasn't enough, Cooler Master has decide to re-enter the market. After being one of the first to release an all-in-one water cooling solution years ago, Cooler Master didn't really bother to develop them any further in recent times. All it took was for the company to see Corsair swimming in money in what's now a matured market, for Cooler Master to whip up the new "A-L2" prototype water cooling system.

So, now we have an awkwardly named Antec, Cooler Master working on another one of their ungainly water coolers, and Corsair finally having to go up against two major players. Should be fun seeing the various solutions being cooked up, and what all of this competition does for pricing.


Antec KÜHLER H2O 620

http://www.asetek.com/press-room/ne...te-next-generation-cpu-cooling-products-.html

Corsair H60

http://www.corsair.com/hydro-series-h60.html
http://www.coolitsystems.com/index....stems-announces-partnership-with-corsair.html

Cooler Master "A-L2" water cooling system

 

[·feist·]

Would it be possible to run a push/pull on the 212+ and make it quieter (slower rotations) than using just one fan by itself? And would the CPU also be cooler running with said push/pull setup?

Yes. You already have an extra fan bracket, so you just need a second unit. A lot of people go with push/pull so that they can run both fans as slowly as possible while maintaining good cooling. Your temps really just depend on how low you'd like to go with your fan speed, so you can have similar temps with slower speed, or improved temps with a higher rotation.

 

[Esperado]

Is static electricity really a killer?

I was disassembling my PC because I put the individual parts on eBay so I could get money to purchase a newer PC (BARELY GOT ANYTHING FOR MY ONCE £1000 PC (E6600, 2GB RAM etc) but pretty much just used my hands (and screwdriver) and that's it.

I hope I haven't damaged any of the parts.. but what are the chances? High risk or low risk?

The chances are pretty low with modern chips, but it's still best to take as much precaution as possible.

 

[Emitan]

Hey guys, quick question. I'm putting the CPU in and I'm trying to press that long metal thing down to push it under the cover and keep the CPU in place, but I'm meeting a bit of resistance when I push it down. Should I keep pushing or did I mess something up?

 

[AceBandage]

Hey guys, quick question. I'm putting the CPU in and I'm trying to press that long metal thing down to push it under the cover and keep the CPU in place, but I'm meeting a bit of resistance when I push it down. Should I keep pushing or did I mess something up?

Keep pushing. It takes a bit of force to latch those things in.

 

[Emitan]

Keep pushing. It takes a bit of force to latch those things in.

Thanks, I got it. Neither my CPU nor motherboard came with thermal paste. The CPU instructions don't even mention it. Should I just put the fan over it?

 

[jiien]

Thanks, I got it. Neither my CPU nor motherboard came with thermal paste. The CPU instructions don't even mention it. Should I just put the fan over it?

No, you need thermal paste. It should be on the stock cooler, usually under a film that you have to peel off.

 

[Emitan]

No, you need thermal paste. It should be on the stock cooler, usually under a film that you have to peel off.

Oh, right. Thanks. I didn't have to install the CPU myself before so I needed a little help with this part.

 

[Slayer-33]

Thanks, I got it. Neither my CPU nor motherboard came with thermal paste. The CPU instructions don't even mention it. Should I just put the fan over it?

Are you sure the hsf doesn't have any thermal paste under it? :lol