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[poppabk]

If not, I would imagine the other option is to send the video to the TV via HDMI and the audio to the receiver via S/PDIF (either straight from the PC or via the optical digital output on the TV), correct?

Yes, except a lot of onboard sound will only send stereo through optical for some obscure reason. This is the method I use currently, but I am using matrixed stereo over optical in games (urggh) until I install a dedicated sound card, USB soundcards can be had for dirt cheap, but I'm not sure on the quality.

 

[Ikuu]

Do you have to take your motherboard out to install an aftermarket cooler?

Some of the higher end cases have a section cut away to allow you to remove the cooler without taking the board out. However on my mine (690 II Advanced) it doesn't cover where the heatsink is.

 

[Rufus]

Do you have to take your motherboard out to install an aftermarket cooler?

Depends on the socket. Judging by the stuff that came with my multi-socket heatsink, I would say 'yes' for Intel-Systems, since all but one item was for Intel sockets (screws, backplate, and the like).

edit: And the above, as well, didn't think of that.

 

[MisterAnderson]

Some of the higher end motherboards have a section cut away to allow you to remove the cooler without taking the board out. However on my mine (690 II Advanced) it doesn't cover where the heatsink is.

I'm not quite sure what you mean... in my case I have the EX58-UD4P:

And am thinking about picking up the Coolermaster V6 GT today:

Does anyone know if I'm going to need to gut my PC just to get this thing in there? I guess I was always under the impression that mounting these things didn't require you to sometimes take the entire motherboard out.

 

[MisterNoisy]

I'm not quite sure what you mean... in my case I have the EX58-UD4P:

(snip)

And am thinking about picking up the Coolermaster V6 GT today:

(snip)

Does anyone know if I'm going to need to gut my PC just to get this thing in there? I guess I was always under the impression that mounting these things didn't require you to sometimes take the entire motherboard out.

There is a backplate on the V6/V6GT mounting system, so unless your case allows you unimpeded access to the back of your motherboard's socket, the motherboard is probably going to have to come out. Be advised that the V6/V6GT is HUGE.

EDIT: What case are you using?

 

[Rufus]

In some PC cases, there's a cut-out exactly below where the CPU sits. If your case has one, you might not have to take out the motherboard. If not - use it as an opportunity to dust it out thoroughly and maybe to some cable management.

 

[mclaren777]

I know that some of you got a free copy of Civ5 for buying a CPU bundle from Newegg.

Would anyone be willing to trade that code for both Just Cause 2 and Mafia II?

 

[Hazaro]

Okay, Take 3. Keep in mind I'm already well over my originally intended budget and wouldn't want to go higher than this. So what do you think?

Swap in a UD3 P67 - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128460
You can see that the GPU has HDMI out, and the motherboard has SPDIF out.

Looking good. I'm sure you will be blown away
That thing will last you a LONG time. Good warranties and good companies as well.

 

[TheExodu5]

Thanks, I really appreciate it. I'm pretty lost and leaning heavily on everyone's advice. I'm just looking to build a gaming rig that will smoke my consoles. I will say the price keeps ballooning, which wasn't the original intention, but I'll spend a little more if it helps that much.

So if I go with the 2500K, can you suggest a good bang-for-the-buck 1155 board from the following?: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...er=BESTMATCH&Description=1155+board&x=15&y=36

The 2500K, especially when overclocked, is so far ahead of the competition right now that it really doesn't make sense going with anything else, unless you really need to keep that budget low. I'm not exaggerating when I say that CPU will last you for 5+ years at the very least. That's not to say some people won't upgrade (because some of us like to upgrade even if we don't need to) though.

Just to give a quick comparison. A last generation i5/i7 is about 20% faster clock-for-clock than a Q6600. A 2500K is about 20% faster clock-for-clock than a last generation i5/i7.

Therefore, let's compare a 2500K at stock, and at 4.6GHz (moderate overclock), to a 3.0GHz Q6600 (because this is probably the most common overclock, and the baseline for many people's gaming rigs).

So, we have:

(3.3GHz / 3GHz) * 1.2 (Q6600 -> i5/i7) * 1.2 (i5/i7 -> Sandy Bridge) = 1.58

(4.6GHz / 3GHz) * 1.2 (Q6600 -> i5/i7) * 1.2 (i5/i7 -> Sandy Bridge) = 2.21

That means a 3.3GHz is 58% faster than a 3GHz quad-core, and a 4.6GHz is 121% faster than a 3GHz quad-core. That 3GHz quad core is already pretty much able to run just about anything today, but that extra headroom is well worth the $100-$150 premium.

 

[TheExodu5]

I'm not quite sure what you mean... in my case I have the EX58-UD4P:

And am thinking about picking up the Coolermaster V6 GT today:

Does anyone know if I'm going to need to gut my PC just to get this thing in there? I guess I was always under the impression that mounting these things didn't require you to sometimes take the entire motherboard out.

The case determines whether or not you'll need to take it out. Some cases have cutouts in behind the motherboard. In my HAF X, there is a cutout, but it wasn't properly aligned with the socket, so I had to take out the motherboard anyways.

 

[The Nature Roy]

Yes, except a lot of onboard sound will only send stereo through optical for some obscure reason. This is the method I use currently, but I am using matrixed stereo over optical in games (urggh) until I install a dedicated sound card, USB soundcards can be had for dirt cheap, but I'm not sure on the quality.

Swap in a UD3 P67 - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128460
You can see that the GPU has HDMI out, and the motherboard has SPDIF out.

Looking good. I'm sure you will be blown away
That thing will last you a LONG time. Good warranties and good companies as well.

I've been trying to research the audio issue this afternoon considering how I will be set up (1.4a HDMI video into the TV, most likely optical into my AVR).

I'm a little frustrated at the moment, but it seems that in order to get 5.1 from my games through this set-up, I would need to make sure the P67 includes Dolby Digital Live or DTS Connect. Is this the case?

It appears that most do not, although the UD4 P67 does according to this comparison: http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/p67-motherboard-roundup-lga-1155-sandy-bridge,2837.html

 

[iNvid02]

I know that some of you got a free copy of Civ5 for buying a CPU bundle from Newegg.

Would anyone be willing to trade that code for both Just Cause 2 and Mafia II?

if you dont want just cause 2 i'll take it

i have nothing to offer though :/

 

[MisterAnderson]

There is a backplate on the V6/V6GT mounting system, so unless your case allows you unimpeded access to the back of your motherboard's socket, the motherboard is probably going to have to come out. Be advised that the V6/V6GT is HUGE.

EDIT: What case are you using?

The case determines whether or not you'll need to take it out. Some cases have cutouts in behind the motherboard. In my HAF X, there is a cutout, but it wasn't properly aligned with the socket, so I had to take out the motherboard anyways.

The case I have is the Antec Nine Hundred Two. I'd check right now to see if there's an opening but I'm running Memtest86+ and I don't want to risk disturbing the thing since I have to pull it out of the shelf it's on to remove the side panel. Is there any downside to an aftermarket cooler being huge aside from it possibly not fitting?

Edit: Does the Coolermaster 212 have the same kind of mounting system that might require me to take my motherboard out? I might just go with that one if it means not having to worry about pulling out the motherboard.

 

[Ikuu]

I'd imagine the vast majority of aftermarket coolers require a mounting plate on the back of the motherboard (to support the weight of the cooler).

 

[mambadragon]

The math above showing the jump from a Q6600 to a 2500k is interesting, but I'm still struggling over whether to spend ~$450 on a Sandy Bridge upgrade (2500k, motherboard, memory, and HSF) or upgrading my 4870 1GB to a 6950/560/570. My Q6600 is at 3.2GHz, and even though the 4870 is newer I still don't think I'm CPU limited in games. In fact the only games I'm worried will run poorly by my standards (i.e. below 30 FPS at 1680x1050) are Witcher 2 and Crysis 2.

 

[coopolon]

The math above showing the jump from a Q6600 to a 2500k is interesting, but I'm still struggling over whether to spend ~$450 on a Sandy Bridge upgrade (2500k, motherboard, memory, and HSF) or upgrading my 4870 1GB to a 6950/560/570. My Q6600 is at 3.2GHz, and even though the 4870 is newer I still don't think I'm CPU limited in games. In fact the only games I'm worried will run poorly by my standards (i.e. below 30 FPS at 1680x1050) are Witcher 2 and Crysis 2.

Is there a reason you have to make the purchase decision right now? Why not wait until the games you are interested in release and see whether they are cpu intensive (my guess is they won't be, I strongly suspect a gpu upgrade would be the best idea.)

 

[mambadragon]

No. Sandy Bridge has just been giving me the upgrade itch.

 

[TheExodu5]

The case I have is the Antec Nine Hundred Two. I'd check right now to see if there's an opening but I'm running Memtest86+ and I don't want to risk disturbing the thing since I have to pull it out of the shelf it's on to remove the side panel. Is there any downside to an aftermarket cooler being huge aside from it possibly not fitting?

Edit: Does the Coolermaster 212 have the same kind of mounting system that might require me to take my motherboard out? I might just go with that one if it means not having to worry about pulling out the motherboard.

It requires mounting.

The best thing I could think of that doesn't require mounting is something like the Arctic Cooling Freezer 7 pro...though it's performance is obviously not nearly as good. Really, in the end, it's about 30 minutes extra work to get a mounted system installed. Your call.

Some, like the Mugen 2, are really hard to install because the cooler needs to be screwed in to the backplate, but some like the Venomous X are really easy, because the backplate is secured from the front with retention posts.

edit: the 212+ appears to use the posts/standoffs to hold the backplate in place:

I really like this approach.

 

[prodystopian]

The math above showing the jump from a Q6600 to a 2500k is interesting, but I'm still struggling over whether to spend ~$450 on a Sandy Bridge upgrade (2500k, motherboard, memory, and HSF) or upgrading my 4870 1GB to a 6950/560/570. My Q6600 is at 3.2GHz, and even though the 4870 is newer I still don't think I'm CPU limited in games. In fact the only games I'm worried will run poorly by my standards (i.e. below 30 FPS at 1680x1050) are Witcher 2 and Crysis 2.

I doubt those two will run poorly at 1680x1050. I am running a stock clocked q9550 with an HD6850 and get >30fps on Crysis at high (not very high) settings @ 1920x1200. I'd wait until the 560 is released, get a GPU (which one depends on benchmarks and whether or not prices shift) and start saving the rest for Ivy Bridge.

 

[The Nature Roy]

I've been trying to research the audio issue this afternoon considering how I will be set up (1.4a HDMI video into the TV, most likely optical into my AVR).

I'm a little frustrated at the moment, but it seems that in order to get 5.1 from my games through this set-up, I would need to make sure the P67 includes Dolby Digital Live or DTS Connect. Is this the case?

It appears that most do not, although the UD4 P67 does according to this comparison: http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/p67-motherboard-roundup-lga-1155-sandy-bridge,2837.html

And further research shows me the UD3P P67 includes support for 'Support for Dolby® Home Theater'. Is this the same thing as Dolby Digital Live, allowing me to get 5.1 from spdif direct into my AVR?

http://www.gigabyte.com/products/comparison/list.aspx?ck=2&pids=3651,3649,3650

 

[TheExodu5]

The math above showing the jump from a Q6600 to a 2500k is interesting, but I'm still struggling over whether to spend ~$450 on a Sandy Bridge upgrade (2500k, motherboard, memory, and HSF) or upgrading my 4870 1GB to a 6950/560/570. My Q6600 is at 3.2GHz, and even though the 4870 is newer I still don't think I'm CPU limited in games. In fact the only games I'm worried will run poorly by my standards (i.e. below 30 FPS at 1680x1050) are Witcher 2 and Crysis 2.

Yeah, like I said, the Sandy Bridge is way faster, but a Q6600 at 3.2GHz should not be limiting you in very many games at all. Unoptimized games like Starcraft 2 will benefit, but games like Witcher 2 and Crysis 2 probably won't see much of a bump from a Q6600, unless you get some serious GPU power.

I was arguing more for the sake of comparing to lower budgeted options like an Athlon 955. I was demonstrating just how ridiculously fast these things are, and that they really should last a very long while.

 

[Bauer Action Hour]

Well, I just jumped on the 2500k, ud3, civ5 newegg combo deal, along w/ a 2x2GB gskill kit (+ free Kingston DataTraveler 2GB) and a sata dvd burner. ~$410 shipped.

Once I sell off my old parts (Phenom II X4 940, GA-MA785GM-US2H mobo, 2x2GB and 2x1GB Adata DDR2 RAM), I'm looking at a $250 upgrade. Not bad.

I have a 4770 GPU that I wouldn't mind upgrading since I'd like the option of MLAA, but I play at a fairly low res (monitor at 1280x1024 and TV at 1360x768) so it's not a pressing need at the moment.

 

[NorrenRadd]

I have 2x2 GB of DDR3 1333 RAM in my PC at the moment. I have two open slots and would like to add another 2x2 GB.

Do I need to match the new RAM with the old RAM in terms of timings? Or do I just need to get a matched pair of 2x2 GB 1333 and stick it in.

Thank you

 

[Seagoon]

Built my new machine with mixed results -

First I had a problem with my Asus 6950 causing Windows to BSoD everytime a power management event occured (such as monitor power off). I was able to fix this by installing the 10.12A version of the Catalyst drivers. I wasn't too impressed that ATI's flagship cards both have this issue and there isn't a mention of it on the driver site and it will quite happily recommend 10.12 when you go through their driver wizard.

Now I have an issue with my P8P67 Pro where sometimes it will not cold boot. This seems to be a common issue with this board. I went through the recommended fix which is to clear the RTC - and to be fair it works better now, but it still double boots. That means I push the power button and the system switches on then off. Pushing the power button a second time actually powers up the system. I'm hoping a future BIOS update resolves this issue, otherwise I'll be RMAing the board.

I'm happy with the speed, this just doesn't feel like the most stable machine I've ever built.

 

[The Nature Roy]

And further research shows me the UD3P P67 includes support for 'Support for Dolby® Home Theater'. Is this the same thing as Dolby Digital Live, allowing me to get 5.1 from spdif direct into my AVR?

http://www.gigabyte.com/products/comparison/list.aspx?ck=2&pids=3651,3649,3650

I am slowly learning as I go... It seems Dolby Digital Live is a part of Dolby Home Theater, so the GIGABYTE UD3P P67 should be able to do what I need. I hope. Please tell me if I'm wrong. Hehe.

 

[ZZMitch]

Probably a noob question, but...
How does one go about updating their BIOS?

 

[InertiaXr]

Built my new machine with mixed results -

Now I have an issue with my P8P67 Pro where sometimes it will not cold boot. This seems to be a common issue with this board. I went through the recommended fix which is to clear the RTC - and to be fair it works better now, but it still double boots. That means I push the power button and the system switches on then off. Pushing the power button a second time actually powers up the system. I'm hoping a future BIOS update resolves this issue, otherwise I'll be RMAing the board.

I'm happy with the speed, this just doesn't feel like the most stable machine I've ever built.

I've got the same problem. P8P67 can't cold boot. I usually turn mine off at night but then in the morning it takes 2-3 tries to actually get it going, but then it's fine. Not sure if it's worth RMAing for me though as it's more of just a small nuisance, and I'd have to reseat my CPU and HSF etc stuff I don't want to do again to have another chance at breaking something.

 

[knitoe]

I've got the same problem. P8P67 can't cold boot. I usually turn mine off at night but then in the morning it takes 2-3 tries to actually get it going, but then it's fine. Not sure if it's worth RMAing for me though as it's more of just a small nuisance, and I'd have to reseat my CPU and HSF etc stuff I don't want to do again to have another chance at breaking something.

Clear the CMOS. Had the problem after a few hours, but after clearing the CMOS, have been running fine for a day now. Something probably got corrupted from messing around in the bios.

 

[knitoe]

Probably a noob question, but...
How does one go about updating their BIOS?

Depend on the MB. Could be by DOS, within bios and/or run a program through OS.

 

[MikeE21286]

I've got the same problem. P8P67 can't cold boot. I usually turn mine off at night but then in the morning it takes 2-3 tries to actually get it going, but then it's fine. Not sure if it's worth RMAing for me though as it's more of just a small nuisance, and I'd have to reseat my CPU and HSF etc stuff I don't want to do again to have another chance at breaking something.

Same thing, same board

 

[NameIess]

Same thing, same board

Are you guys running the most current version of the bios?

Also clearing the CMOS is a good exercise especially if you played around with over clocking the CPU or ram..

 

[MikeE21286]

Are you guys running the most current version of the bios?

Also clearing the CMOS is a good exercise especially if you played around with over clocking the CPU or ram..

I haven't touched anything regarding OC'ing.

Haven't upgraded the bios...I mean the thing was released less than 2 weeks ago, is there a BIOS update?

 

[Seagoon]

I'm running the lastest bios (1053 beta from memory) - I have also cleared the CMOS, my ram is on the supported model list as well.

 

[mclaren777]

The math above showing the jump from a Q6600 to a 2500k is interesting, but I'm still struggling over whether to spend ~$450 on a Sandy Bridge upgrade (2500k, motherboard, memory, and HSF) or upgrading my 4870 1GB to a 6950/560/570. My Q6600 is at 3.2GHz, and even though the 4870 is newer I still don't think I'm CPU limited in games. In fact the only games I'm worried will run poorly by my standards (i.e. below 30 FPS at 1680x1050) are Witcher 2 and Crysis 2.

Credit to scrubman on the Anandtech forums, whose Crysis Warhard framerate went from 55 to 80.

 

[The Bookerman]

Hmmmm. Nforce boards still exist?

 

[ZZMitch]

Depend on the MB. Could be by DOS, within bios and/or run a program through OS.

http://usa.asus.com/product.aspx?P_ID=9i872VNaAILRp8bS&templete=2

This is my motherboard

 

[Shambles]

Credit to scrubman on the Anandtech forums, whose Crysis Warhard framerate went from 55 to 80.

*rocks back and forth in the corner*

"My Q6600 is good enough... My Q6600 is good enough... My Q6600 is good enough..."

Putting off the upgrade fever for 11 months is going to be tough.

 

[mclaren777]

Your Q6600 is plenty good enough and I wouldn't bother upgrading if I was in your position.

 

[LegoDad]

He also added 4gb's of Ram.

 

[Chris R]

*rocks back and forth in the corner*

"My Q6600 is good enough... My Q6600 is good enough... My Q6600 is good enough..."

Putting off the upgrade fever for 11 months is going to be tough.

Same here coming from a Q9550 + 512 4870. Going to be one kick ass upgrade though

 

[knitoe]

http://usa.asus.com/product.aspx?P_ID=9i872VNaAILRp8bS&templete=2

This is my motherboard

Seems like you can do all three with this board. It's probably easier to do it with ASUS EZ Flash 2 (bios) or ASUS Update (OS).

 

[Frostburn]

My case, motherboard, power supply and memory are here so I'm going to put everything together tonight. Tomorrow my processor, heatsink/fan and hard drive come in... I cannot wait to get this thing running!

Corsair 600T
Intel Core i5-2500k
Asus P8P67
EVGA GTX 275 until I can get my GTX 570
Corsair Vengeance 8GB 1600 DDR3
Corsair HX-750W Modular
1TB Samsung Spinpoint F3 7200RPM
Sony 24x DVD Burner w/ Lightscribe

Re-using my old Nvidia GTX275 till I can afford a GTX570

(Anyone want to buy a complete old machine that plays most games fine? $450)
Lian-Li S80 Case
Intel Core 2 Duo e8500 3.16GHz
Asus P5B
EVGA GTX 275 SC (Will put back in when the system sells)
G.Skill HK 4GB DDR2 (2x2GB)
Enermax Liberty 550W (I think) Modular PSU
WD Black 640GB 7200RPM
Segate 320GB 7200RPM
Nec 16x DVD Burner

 

[BlueTsunami]

I think you would be fine going with something like this.

Ended up getting this. Thanks for the suggestion! Though I'ma back up all my important stuff on DVDs just in case.

 

[ZZMitch]

Seems like you can do all three with this board. It's probably easier to do it with ASUS EZ Flash 2 (bios) or ASUS Update (OS).

Alright thanks! Its ok to do a bios update right from the OS?

 

[Kalnos]

Ended up getting this. Thanks for the suggestion! Though I'ma back up all my important stuff on DVDs just in case.

You have chosen well.

 

[Beth Cyra]

Basic Desktop Questions
Your Current Specs: I currently only own a Laptop, a 19 Inch Mon, and a 32 Inch TV
Budget: 800 - 1250$ USA
Main Use: Gaming, Emulation (Mostly just PS2)
Monitor Resolution:19 Inch, but will be upgrading later.
List SPECIFIC games that you must be able to play: Crysis, WoW, PS2 games at 60 FPS or close enough.
Are reusing any parts?: No
When will you build?: No rush, but would the sooner the better I suppose.
Will you be overclocking?: Maybe



I am tired of playing games on my laptop and would like to get back into desktop gaming. I know starting out with no parts to carry over and such a small amount of money limits me, but I was hoping to get some good leads from Gaf.

 

[Terproerg]

i figure i could ask this here. Ok so my motherboard is a msi 770-g45 and on the newest bios. But ive had a problem, the oc gene lite option has corrupted text string as its option. Its all text and numbers and i cant control it.

I am just wondering if i should RMA the board or just leave it as is. I dont use the feature, but its a little worrying. Also my ram wont work at its rated 1600 speed :\.

 

[jiien]

Basic Desktop Questions
Your Current Specs: I currently only own a Laptop, a 19 Inch Mon, and a 32 Inch TV
Budget: 800 - 1250$ USA
Main Use: Gaming, Emulation (Mostly just PS2)
Monitor Resolution:19 Inch, but will be upgrading later.
List SPECIFIC games that you must be able to play: Crysis, WoW, PS2 games at 60 FPS or close enough.
Are reusing any parts?: No
When will you build?: No rush, but would the sooner the better I suppose.
Will you be overclocking?: Maybe



I am tired of playing games on my laptop and would like to get back into desktop gaming. I know starting out with no parts to carry over and such a small amount of money limits me, but I was hoping to get some good leads from Gaf.

You should basically start out with the "Get A Lot More" build in the OP. If you have questions on why or what, then you should ask about those specific parts. Hazaro has put together a very good starting point though.

Additionally, both for you and any future builders, this is a very good resource:

www.tinyurl.com/FalconGuide

 

[knitoe]

i figure i could ask this here. Ok so my motherboard is a msi 770-g45 and on the newest bios. But ive had a problem, the oc gene lite option has corrupted text string as its option. Its all text and numbers and i cant control it.

I am just wondering if i should RMA the board or just leave it as is. I dont use the feature, but its a little worrying. Also my ram wont work at its rated 1600 speed :\.

Reflash the bios. Problem still persist, RMA it.

 

[Korranator]

I'm running the lastest bios (1053 beta from memory) - I have also cleared the CMOS, my ram is on the supported model list as well.

What ram are you running? From what I'm seeing being reported is anything over 1333 is having issues.