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"I need a New PC!" 2011 Edition of SSD's for everyone! |OT|

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n0n44m

Member
does Gigabyte use the same Foxconn sockets as my Asus p8p67pro? :p

but anyway no need to push more than 1.4 volts through for a decent overclock, I'm running 4.7 with a 1.325 vcore using a 2600k =]

sure if you would like to do the 5+ghz on air thing you can, but I'll definitely pass until the maximum safe 24/7 voltage settings are better understood ... so many options in the bios right now that are proven to improve 4.8+ghz overclocking, but nobody really understands what they do exactly lol :D
 

jiien

Member
Jin34 said:
Is there a setting that makes the computer reboot when a BSOD happens? Because mine always reboots before I can get a good look at it.

Control Panel -> System -> Advanced System Properties (or however else you want to get the System Properties window open) -> Advanced tab -> Startup and Recovery Settings... -> untoggle Automatically restart.

I believe that will do it.

Alternatively, every time you BSOD, a .dmp file gets written to C:\Windows\minidump. You can download a program like bluescreenview, which will let you view the information that was contained in every BSOD you've had.
 

jiien

Member
Branson said:
:(. I think my video card just died. Just as I was starting a race on iracing the screen froze and the sound started skipping and I couldn't do anything except hard reset. As soon as windows was booting it would get to the loading bar for windows thingy and the screen was filled with gray little dots. Then the bar stopped loading and the screen just had the dots and wouldn't boot further. It goes into safe mode fine but not normal windows. Dead card?

Not sure if anyone answered, but yes, it does sound like your video card is on its way out. However, safest way to test is to get another video card and boot up with it, and see if that fixes your problems. Maybe borrow one out of another computer?
 
Take 2. Note there are about $50 in mail-in rebates as well that don't show up in the final price.

Thoughts? Again, thanks for the help everyone.

NE2.jpg
 

LiquidMetal14

hide your water-based mammals
Krauser Kat said:
The P67 UD3 looks pretty good, if you need only one PCI-E slot.
I do. Not in it for SLI/x-fire. The EFI bios seem really nice in the board I have linked. I had your suggestion linked initially but bumped it up due to the bios praise. 140 seems fair for a good board like that. I will keep both in mind still, thanks!
 

TheExodu5

Banned
Deadly Monk said:
Is a third party cpu cooler really necessary if I go with an i7? I don't plan on overclocking it at all, will I be okay with the stock fan?

It's not necessary, but if you have a really quiet computer, then the stock cooler might be the louder fan in there. If you're not going for super quiet, it shouldn't be an issue then. It's not that loud...it just buzzes a little bit.
 
The Nature Roy said:
Take 2. Note there are about $50 in mail-in rebates as well that don't show up in the final price.

Thoughts? Again, thanks for the help everyone.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v233/bdrmartin/NE2.jpg
Honestly, if you must build a PC right now, I'd urge you to consider increasing your budget a bit, and go for an i5 2500K + 1155 board. Far better performance, potential and shelf life than you'd get with that current combo.

If you prefer AMD and/or are able to wait, you should hold off until Bulldozer releases. AM3 is dead, and even an entry-level 900-series AM3+ motherboard will provide a decent feature set, in addition to having potential future upgrade options.

As for that Antec 200:

·feist· said:
The Antec 200's front bezel is not only unsightly, it has a very low quality finish and look to it. There are also clear cost-cutting measures that they took with the case.

...

41A6OODotpL._AA300_.jpg

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...1146059&cm_re=nzxt_evo-_-11-146-059-_-Product

Free shipping with Amazon
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002OEBILA/?tag=neogaf0e-20

Or a $50 Antec 300:

41IPTbS2stL._SL500_AA300_.jpg

http://www.microcenter.com/single_product_results.phtml?product_id=0283272

Much classier look versus the 200, that they can place in any room of the house. The newer 300s have a CPU cutout, and a dedicated SSD area below the HDD cage. The 300 also has thumbscrews for everything and actual PCI brackets, as opposed to the cheap covers that the Antec 200 has. Fan wise, the 300 has 2 3-speed fans to the 200's 2 2-speed fans, if that makes a difference to you.
http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showpost.php?p=24550693&postcount=17914
 
·feist· said:
Honestly, if you must build a PC right now, I'd urge you to consider increasing your budget a bit, and go for an i5 2500K + 1155 board. Far better performance, potential and shelf life than you'd get with that current combo.
http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showpost.php?p=24550693&postcount=17914
Thanks, I really appreciate it. I'm pretty lost and leaning heavily on everyone's advice. I'm just looking to build a gaming rig that will smoke my consoles. I will say the price keeps ballooning, which wasn't the original intention, but I'll spend a little more if it helps that much.

So if I go with the 2500K, can you suggest a good bang-for-the-buck 1155 board from the following?: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...er=BESTMATCH&Description=1155+board&x=15&y=36
 
The Nature Roy said:
Thanks, I really appreciate it. I'm pretty lost and leaning heavily on everyone's advice. I'm just looking to build a gaming rig that will smoke my consoles. I will say the price keeps ballooning, which wasn't the original intention, but I'll spend a little more if it helps that much.

So if I go with the 2500K, can you suggest a good bang-for-the-buck 1155 board from the following?: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...er=BESTMATCH&Description=1155+board&x=15&y=36
The Gigabyte UD3 would be my suggestion.
 

hyelife

Member
The Nature Roy said:
Thanks, I really appreciate it. I'm pretty lost and leaning heavily on everyone's advice. I'm just looking to build a gaming rig that will smoke my consoles. I will say the price keeps ballooning, which wasn't the original intention, but I'll spend a little more if it helps that much.

So if I go with the 2500K, can you suggest a good bang-for-the-buck 1155 board from the following?: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...er=BESTMATCH&Description=1155+board&x=15&y=36
Im going with the ASUS P8P67 PRO. I think thats a great Mobo for overclocking from what I read in reviews.
 
The Nature Roy said:
Okay, Take 3. Keep in mind I'm already well over my originally intended budget and wouldn't want to go higher than this. So what do you think?

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v233/bdrmartin/NE3.jpg
You do not want to buy an H67 board. H67s have nearly zero overclocking ability. If you want an mATX, you need to go for a P67-based model, or one of the upcoming Z68 boards. Same applies to ATX and mITX.

Confusion, courtesy of Intel.


Do you or any of your friends/family live near a Microcenter?

http://www.microcenter.com/at_the_stores/index.html

They're selling the i5 2500K for $180, but it's in-store only.
Compared that to: List Price = $216, Amazon = $233.13, Newegg = $224.99

Microcenter CPU + motherboard bundles:

2dc98bb.png

ff49cl.png
 

Jin34

Member
Goddamn Microcenter, Price match that shit Newegg!

We're going to have to start a "Microcenter Sandy Bridge thread of equal global distribution" lol
 
·feist· said:
You do not want to buy an H67 board. H67s have nearly zero overclocking ability. If you want an mATX, you need to go for a P67-based model, or one of the upcoming Z68 boards. Same applies to ATX and mITX.

Confusion, courtesy of Intel.

Do you or any of your friends/family live near a Microcenter?
Unfortunately I do not.

Anyway, this is all of foreign language to me. Would this work (cheapest P67 board that showed up in the search)?: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...21482&cm_re=1155_board-_-13-121-482-_-Product

If not, what would you select from this list (budget in mind): http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ... board&page=1&bop=And&Order=PRICE&PageSize=20

Again, I really appreciate it. I wouldn't have a clue where to even start without this thread.
 
Okay, I'm going to be buying the pieces for my setup that I posted a page back (https://secure.newegg.com/WishList/MySavedWishDetailPrint.aspx?ID=12329365), so the computer won't be completed for about three months. I'm going to spend about $500 a month so I'm going to be getting two or three pieces a month for the build. Generally, which parts should I start with first?

What I mean to say is, which is likely to get outdated sooner? What am I safe with getting now? Or another way of putting it is, which ones (the mobo, videocard, ram etc.) would I be okay with getting now and not having to worry about a newer version a couple of months down the line? I want to buy a couple of parts today (probably the case, PSU and maybe the DVD burner first).
 

scorcho

testicles on a cold fall morning
The Nature Roy said:
Again, I really appreciate it. I wouldn't have a clue where to even start without this thread.
Swap out EVGA videocards - get this instead - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130563

i have that exact same card and it overclocks comfortably to 850mhz. it also comes with two free games. not bad for being $30 cheaper (also has a rebate). also, i've read the cooler on this card, which is the reference cooler, is vastly superior to the one in the EE version.

also, do you really need a blu-ray burner?
 

Wthermans

Banned
Angelus Errare said:
Fuuuu, I might actually drive to Atlanta for a deal like that o_O
I was just thinking the same thing. It would be a 10 hour round trip for me, but I could wake up early, drive down, buy, drive right back and maybe make it back before dinner.
 

Jin34

Member
Wthermans said:
I was just thinking the same thing. It would be a 10 hour round trip for me, but I could wake up early, drive down, buy, drive right back and maybe make it back before dinner.

Wouldn't you burn the savings on gas?
 

Jin34

Member
Deadly Monk said:
There's a Microcenter 10 minutes from my house! (St. Davids, PA). Maybe I'll buy all my parts there...

Then put on a fake mustache and go back in and buy for the rest of us and ship them in a flat rate box :p
 

hyelife

Member
That combo deal for the Asus board and 2500k is exactly what I want.. Hmm nearest Microcenter is 50 miles from me. What time do they close?
 

kodt

Banned
Deadly Monk said:
There's a Microcenter 10 minutes from my house! (St. Davids, PA). Maybe I'll buy all my parts there...

They also price-match Newegg and ZipZoomFly

I once got over $100 off a video card there by price matching NewEgg.

The only problem is you have to pay taxes.
 
Deadly Monk said:
Okay, I'm going to be buying the pieces for my setup that I posted a page back (https://secure.newegg.com/WishList/MySavedWishDetailPrint.aspx?ID=12329365), so the computer won't be completed for about three months. I'm going to spend about $500 a month so I'm going to be getting two or three pieces a month for the build. Generally, which parts should I start with first?

What I mean to say is, which is likely to get outdated sooner? What am I safe with getting now? Or another way of putting it is, which ones (the mobo, videocard, ram etc.) would I be okay with getting now and not having to worry about a newer version a couple of months down the line? I want to buy a couple of parts today (probably the case, PSU and maybe the DVD burner first).

Anyone? Help...:(
 

fresquito

Member
I'm thinking about getting a new monitor, thus I need to upgrade my graphic card. I've been thinking about getting an AMD 6850 (I don't see spending 50€ more worth for the 6870). Now, I've read Nvidia is launching a new graphic card in a few days, which will probably move things a little bit.

The question is: should I wait and see how things fare in one/two months? Or maybe my price-range (<200€) won't be shaken by the new hardware and the waiting won't be worth it? BTW, what's your opinion on the screen I've chosen?
 
·feist· said:
You do not want to buy an H67 board. H67s have nearly zero overclocking ability. If you want an mATX, you need to go for a P67-based model, or one of the upcoming Z68 boards. Same applies to ATX and mITX.
I guess the reason I originally selected an H67 and not a P67 (not that I even knew there was more than one option) was because I see HDMI ports listed in the specs of the H67s and not the P67s.

I'm going to run the audio into my AVR. I figured HDMI would be the easiest way to run 7.1 sound from the PC into my receiver.

I could be completely wrong on all of this, so please enlighten me on how would be the best way to go about it.
 

jiien

Member
Deadly Monk said:
Anyone? Help...:(

Why don't you save up your money to buy all of it at once? If you get it all at once, you'll have a more cohesive understanding of what you want, and how it will all fit together. Things and prices may change, and three parts of a whole computer are useless.

That said, the three parts you listed most likely won't change in the next three months, out of everything else. But I would only get them if you see a great sale. Otherwise, just wait.
 
The Nature Roy said:
I guess the reason I originally selected an H67 and not a P67 (not that I even knew there was more than one option) was because I see HDMI ports listed in the specs of the H67s and not the P67s.

I'm going to run the audio into my AVR. I figured HDMI would be the easiest way to run 7.1 sound from the PC into my receiver.

I could be completely wrong on all of this, so please enlighten me on how would be the best way to go about it.

Most, if not all video cards have HDMI out. If you're planning on buying a video card, HDMI will be covered.
 

poppabk

Cheeks Spread for Digital Only Future
The Nature Roy said:
I guess the reason I originally selected an H67 and not a P67 (not that I even knew there was more than one option) was because I see HDMI ports listed in the specs of the H67s and not the P67s.

I'm going to run the audio into my AVR. I figured HDMI would be the easiest way to run 7.1 sound from the PC into my receiver.

I could be completely wrong on all of this, so please enlighten me on how would be the best way to go about it.
Your graphics card will most likely have HDMI out. If you are planning on running one HDMI to the TV and then another to the receiver for sound I am pretty sure that will not work as only the primary card will transfer sound. I may be wrong on this though, as that is just my hunch.
 
poppabk said:
Your graphics card will most likely have HDMI out. If you are planning on running one HDMI to the TV and then another to the receiver for sound I am pretty sure that will not work as only the primary card will transfer sound. I may be wrong on this though, as that is just my hunch.
I actually was planning on running one to the TV and one to the AVR as the TV is 3D-Ready and the receiver is only 1.3a HDMI.
 

DeadTrees

Member
hyelife said:
That combo deal for the Asus board and 2500k is exactly what I want.. Hmm nearest Microcenter is 50 miles from me. What time do they close?
Eh, I'd call in advance to verify the price--the sale on the bundle is apparently over.

The price for the 2500k alone ($180 + tax) is good through 1/30.
 

Ecrofirt

Member
OK, so I've pretty much decided on getting one of these two CPU/Motherboard combo:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboDealDetails.aspx?ItemList=Combo.575902
http://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboDealDetails.aspx?ItemList=Combo.575904

Any suggestions as to which is the better one?

They both seem to have strengths and weaknesses.

Also, does anyone have recommendations on a MicroATX case that's not bad? My plan is to use it as a file server and I'll probably be keeping it in a closet under the stairs. I'm concerned about airflow and heat.
 

poppabk

Cheeks Spread for Digital Only Future
The Nature Roy said:
I actually was planning on running one to the TV and one to the AVR as the TV is 3D-Ready and the receiver is only 1.3a HDMI.
I don't know for certain so I would wait and see if anyone more knowledgeable can say for certain if you can use the dedicated card for video and the onboard 'card' for sound.
 
poppabk said:
I don't know for certain so I would wait and see if anyone more knowledgeable can say for certain if you can use the dedicated card for video and the onboard 'card' for sound.
If not, I would imagine the other option is to send the video to the TV via HDMI and the audio to the receiver via S/PDIF (either straight from the PC or via the optical digital output on the TV), correct?
 
poppabk said:
I don't know for certain so I would wait and see if anyone more knowledgeable can say for certain if you can use the dedicated card for video and the onboard 'card' for sound.
you can specify where the sound comes out of. The hdmi on the ATI cards sends pretty good 5.1 to my system. IT would probably be smarter to use Optical for sound if your going from the mobo (not the video card).
 

ZZMitch

Member
Well I got into one of my bluescreen dump files and saw that the things that are causing the crash are

dxgkrnl.sys
dxgmms1.sys
ntoskrnl.exe
nvlddmkm.sys

I don't know if this means anything (except that it is related to direct x and nvidia?), just thought I would post it here...
 

jiien

Member
ZZMitch said:
Well I got into one of my bluescreen dump files and saw that the things that are causing the crash are

dxgkrnl.sys
dxgmms1.sys
ntoskrnl.exe
nvlddmkm.sys

I don't know if this means anything (except that it is related to direct x and nvidia?), just thought I would post it here...

Nvidia driver issue. Google for nvlddmkm.sys, since I think that is at the heart of the problem, not the other drivers. I think.
 
Hey guys,

I was wondering if the on-die Sandy Bridge GPU is enough to playback 1080p Blu-ray videos and other formats. Not used for gaming, just media and web browsing.

If I use just the SB GPU, do I need a aftermarket cooler?
 

ZZMitch

Member
jiien said:
Nvidia driver issue. Google for nvlddmkm.sys, since I think that is at the heart of the problem, not the other drivers. I think.

Yeah, I have been looking that up, lots of random fixes and stuff I might need to try... I might try to reformat windows or something... I wish I had an external harddrive to store all my Steam games!
 

jiien

Member
ZZMitch said:
Yeah, I have been looking that up, lots of random fixes and stuff I might need to try... I might try to reformat windows or something... I wish I had an external harddrive to store all my Steam games!

Yeah, there doesn't seem to be one definite fix to this problem. The best I can suggest, assuming you know every other component of your computer is working, is to completely uninstall your drivers, using a driver sweeper after a normal uninstall, and then reinstall the latest drivers again.
 

ZZMitch

Member
jiien said:
Yeah, there doesn't seem to be one definite fix to this problem. The best I can suggest, assuming you know every other component of your computer is working, is to completely uninstall your drivers, using a driver sweeper after a normal uninstall, and then reinstall the latest drivers again.

That was the first thing I tried! I am gunna run a memtest and stuff later once I am done with midterms this week though.
 
marathonfool said:
Hey guys,

I was wondering if the on-die Sandy Bridge GPU is enough to playback 1080p Blu-ray videos and other formats. Not used for gaming, just media and web browsing.

If I use just the SB GPU, do I need a aftermarket cooler?
It is one of the fastest 1080p decoders out there. But you have to use an h67 (no overlclocking) board to use it.

CyberLink%20MediaEspresso.png

Toms Hardware
t turns out that the decode pipeline on Sandy Bridge is so complete that even the AACS decryption is offloaded to fixed-function hardware. AACS employs AES encryption, which most Sandy Bridge-based CPUs accelerate, so that’s rather convenient.

In a best-case scenario, Arcsoft’s reps say that you bitstream encoded Dolby TrueHD or DTS-HD Master Audio to an HDMI 1.3- or 1.4-capable receiver (meaning there is no audio decoding for the CPU to do) and see CPU utilization as low as 0% playing back Blu-ray content.Bitstreaming DTS-HD Master Audio
 
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