Support NeoGAF

[Ningo]

Well I went ahead and slotted in the new ram, seems to be fine. Going to have to wait to install the ssd as I need to get another cable for it.

I just put in two 4gig dimms of corsair vengeance ddr3 1600 9-9-9-24 1.5v and was wondering if it was ok to put the old ram, being 2x2gig ripjaws ddr3 1600 9-9-9-24 1.5v dimms, in the spare slots?

Cheers

 

[aznpxdd]

Just bought 16gb of ram for $60, shit, I don't even need that much.

Also, is going from HD5870 2GB to GTX560Ti 448 worth it? Or should I be aiming at something higher?

 

[Krauser Kat]

now that amd shit the bed with the releases coming out in January. What is the best card for the next 6 months under 300? the new 570/560ti with upped shader cores?

 

[dinosaur_hunter2]

Guys, I need your help.

I followed the recommendations on this thread and bought the $1000 bunde. So, my motherboard is a ASUS P8Z68-V and my processor an I5 2500K. Everything else is pretty much the same as what's on the list.

Last night I assembled the new PC. After 3 and a half hours of assembling (it's been 6 years or so since I did something like that, so I was being very cautious), I turned the PC on. And... A fucking red CPU-LED went on and it wouldn't boot. The CPU cooler was working. I tried removing and installing the processor 3 times (that Cooler Master Hyper 212+ is a monster and a pain in the ass to remove from the motherboard), to no avail. Do you have any idea of what is going on? It's really pissing me off.

Thank you in advance.

 

[gokieks]

That's one of the easier solutions. :lol The Lian Li was never an option for me. While I love my PC-71, the V1000 series never looked as good as the G5/Mac Pro case, imo.

It doesn't, to be sure. But I'm willing to settle considering the effort involved to use a G5 case. And I really don't like the custom back for fan/IO cluster - looks really tacky IMO.

Now, what I really want is to mod a G4 Cube into a mATX (mini-ITX?) PC. But that'd probably be even more effort, so that's likely to remain a pipedream.

now that amd shit the bed with the releases coming out in January. What is the best card for the next 6 months under 300? the new 570/560ti with upped shader cores?

The best card with a MSRP under $300 would be the 560Ti 448 Cores. But you can find 6970s and 570s occasionally for just around that price ($300 - $310) after mail-in rebates.

 

[chrisisawesome]

I have a 13'' MacBook pro and am thinking about installing an sdd. Is it a good time or are they still way too expensive?

 

[Celcius]

Guys, I need your help.

I followed the recommendations on this thread and bought the $1000 bunde. So, my motherboard is a ASUS P8Z68-V and my processor an I5 2500K. Everything else is pretty much the same as what's on the list.

Last night I assembled the new PC. After 3 and a half hours of assembling (it's been 6 years or so since I did something like that, so I was being very cautious), I turned the PC on. And... A fucking red CPU-LED went on and it wouldn't boot. The CPU cooler was working. I tried removing and installing the processor 3 times (that Cooler Master Hyper 212+ is a monster and a pain in the ass to remove from the motherboard), to no avail. Do you have any idea of what is going on? It's really pissing me off.

Thank you in advance.

1. When you remove the cpu, make sure that there are no bent pens in the cpu socket. Also, verify that you didn't over-tighten the 212+ when installing it.
2. Try to press the mem-OK button on the motherboard and see if that helps.
3. Try booting with one stick of ram, then the other in a different slot.

 

[dinosaur_hunter2]

1. When you remove the cpu, make sure that there are no bent pens in the cpu socket. Also, verify that you didn't over-tighten the 212+ when installing it.
2. Try to press the mem-OK button on the motherboard and see if that helps.
3. Try booting with one stick of ram, then the other in a different slot.

I'll try the boxed cooled first to see if I didn't overtight the 212+. Also, do you think the CPU_LED would lit if there was a problem with the memory sticks? There's a RAM_LED there too, that's why I thought the problem could really be in the CPU. The motherboard neither does POST, nor beeps. It's really strange and bizarre. And frustrating.

 

[TheExodu5]

Just ordered myself a Data Vac. I guess it's time I got one.

I have a 13'' MacBook pro and am thinking about installing an sdd. Is it a good time or are they still way too expensive?

Considering the price of HDDs right now, I think this is a great time to get an SSD. Crucial M4 would be my pick, currently.

 

[Celcius]

I'll try the boxed cooled first to see if I didn't overtight the 212+. Also, do you think the CPU_LED would lit if there was a problem with the memory sticks? There's a RAM_LED there too, that's why I thought the problem could really be in the CPU. The motherboard neither does POST, nor beeps. It's really strange and bizarre. And frustrating.

It's most likely related to the cpu socket, but if there are no bent pins then pressing the mem button or trying one stick takes less than 5 min so it could be worth a shot.
Also, double-check that both the 24-pin and 8-pin power connectors are fully plugged into the motherboard.

 

[noire]

Have mine in the 2nd and 4th now. If it's not the CMOS, I get to disassemble the whole thing to switch slots.

No clearance under the big scythe.

Well, I had to disassemble it. Ended up with the RAM in the same slots, so I think it just wasn't seated properly.

Getting a CPU fan error. Not sure why. It's spinning up, just isn't getting a reading.

Case is a tight fit. A little more fan whir than I wanted, but not bad, really.

There's a RAM_LED there too, that's why I thought the problem could really be in the CPU. The motherboard neither does POST, nor beeps. It's really strange and bizarre. And frustrating.

I believe that memory light is supposed to be lit on the ASUS boards. It flashes when you use the MEM-OK button. At least that's how it was on the P8Z68.

There's also the green standby light that stays on to let you know that it's getting power.

 

[mkenyon]

Considering the price of HDDs right now, I think this is a great time to get an SSD. Crucial M4 would be my pick, currently.

Only thing is that OSX doesn't support TRIM. Would suggest a current gen Sandforce, like the Corsair Force 3 or Force GT (suggested over the other Sandforce drives because of Corsair customer support). They have some built in utilities that helps them keep their speed and stay stable over long periods that are absent in lots of other SSD's.

Guys, I need your help.

I followed the recommendations on this thread and bought the $1000 bunde. So, my motherboard is a ASUS P8Z68-V and my processor an I5 2500K. Everything else is pretty much the same as what's on the list.

Last night I assembled the new PC. After 3 and a half hours of assembling (it's been 6 years or so since I did something like that, so I was being very cautious), I turned the PC on. And... A fucking red CPU-LED went on and it wouldn't boot. The CPU cooler was working. I tried removing and installing the processor 3 times (that Cooler Master Hyper 212+ is a monster and a pain in the ass to remove from the motherboard), to no avail. Do you have any idea of what is going on? It's really pissing me off.

Thank you in advance.

Are you sure your EPS power (the 8 pin at the top of the board) is plugged in correctly?

Try booting with 1 stick of RAM, switch sticks afterward. I dont have that manual in front of me, but check it out for what the possible errors might be with that light. Additionally, google "(motherboard model) (warning light name) issue won't boot".

Getting a CPU fan error. Not sure why. It's spinning up, just isn't getting a reading.

You probably just didn't plug the heatsink into the CPU FAN specific motherboard header. No worries.

 

[knitoe]

Well I went ahead and slotted in the new ram, seems to be fine. Going to have to wait to install the ssd as I need to get another cable for it.

I just put in two 4gig dimms of corsair vengeance ddr3 1600 9-9-9-24 1.5v and was wondering if it was ok to put the old ram, being 2x2gig ripjaws ddr3 1600 9-9-9-24 1.5v dimms, in the spare slots?

Cheers

Since they seem to be have the same timings and voltage, you can just plug them in and have 12GB total.

 

[Loam]

Somewhat off topic for a thread that seems primarily about building towers, but would anyone be able to point me in the direction of reasonably priced yet still respectable quality widescreen monitors? I'm building a new PC and want to get the necessary accessories out of the way first (keyboard, mouse, monitor, etc.) so I'll know what budget I'll have to work with for the rest of the hardware.

 

[knitoe]

Somewhat off topic for a thread that seems primarily about building towers, but would anyone be able to point me in the direction of reasonably priced yet still respectable quality widescreen monitors? I'm building a new PC and want to get the necessary accessories out of the way first (keyboard, mouse, monitor, etc.) so I'll know what budget I'll have to work with for the rest of the hardware.

Need more info. What is your monitor budget, size wanted, 1920x1080 or 1920x1200 resolution and use mainly for gaming or work?

 

[th3dude]

Just want to bump that my Corsair TX650v2 PSU and EVGA 560ti DS are still for sale in the buy/sell/trade thread if anyone is looking to do a build and wants to save a few bucks. Let's help each other out.

http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showpost.php?p=33261187&postcount=2563

 

[mkenyon]

I might be bringing home a GTX590 Classified Hydro Copper.

Here's hoping the deal pans out.

 

[scogoth]

I might be bringing home a GTX590 Classified Hydro Copper.

Here's hoping the deal pans out.

Think you need two. Then take pictures so I can ogle.

 

[mkenyon]

Think you need two. Then take pictures so I can ogle.

Depending on cooling situation, that's the plan. I might have to get creative with my Arc Mini to have sufficient cooling. Two 240mm rads might not cut it.

If all else fails, I'll mod my 600T to fit a 360mm rad up top and put a 200mm rad in the front. I really like the idea of two 590s all WC'd in a mATX case though.

 

[brotkasten]

I might be bringing home a GTX590 Classified Hydro Copper.

Here's hoping the deal pans out.

On that note, I hate how water coolers for GPUs have evolved. Back then it was easier, when you just had a block you could use for the next two cards.

 

[noire]

You probably just didn't plug the heatsink into the CPU FAN specific motherboard header. No worries.

Double checked that last night and it's in the correct one. Maybe a bad fan, or I need to try reseating it.

 

[scogoth]

Depending on cooling situation, that's the plan. I might have to get creative with my Arc Mini to have sufficient cooling. Two 240mm rads might not cut it.

If all else fails, I'll mod my 600T to fit a 360mm rad up top and put a 200mm rad in the front. I really like the idea of two 590s all WC'd in a mATX case though.

I wish you the best of luck. Maybe if you remove the HDD bays.

I remember seeing some guy with 4-way 580s but he was using 3x360 external rads.

 

[dinosaur_hunter2]

Are you sure your EPS power (the 8 pin at the top of the board) is plugged in correctly?

Try booting with 1 stick of RAM, switch sticks afterward. I dont have that manual in front of me, but check it out for what the possible errors might be with that light. Additionally, google "(motherboard model) (warning light name) issue won't boot".

That's the problem, there's nothing in the manual regarding that light. I'll check the EPS power cable and some other things I saw in the internet. It seems many people have problems with my exact setup. Hopefully I won't lose another 4 hours trying to figure that out.

 

[Wazzim]

Holy shit, the DDR3 prizes have COLLAPSED this year.
8gb €37, yes please.

 

[Hazaro]

22 Europe monies in America.

 

[HotHamWater]

So, is there any go to PC headset for you guys when it comes to price/performance (ala the 2500k for CPU's)?

 

[Wazzim]

22 Europe monies in America.

damn it

 

[Of All Trades]

Are there any US-based PC-component retailers that do custom builds like NCIX? I know mwave does, and Central Computers in the SF Bay area does, but anyone else?

 

[Dina]

Also upgraded my ram to 8 gig. Small price to pay (21 euros with 2,50 shipping) for a nice upgrade.

 

[RS4-]

Ugh going to try and sell/trade my 2600k for a 2700k lol

 

[mkenyon]

Ugh going to try and sell/trade my 2600k for a 2700k lol

Why?

 

[Omikaru]

Really regretting going with a 5400rpm hard drive with my build now. The PC runs spectacularly since I sorted out all my faulty hardware (it was a faulty CPU, motherboard and RAM in the end), but I'm used to the speeds of the 7200rpm HDD on my old system (that was near death, so I couldn't recycle it), and this HDD kind of clunks along at its own pace when I'm loading files and such.

In otherwords, I think it's time for a SSD. I finally have a job now so money's absolutely not an issue (and I'm pretty pissed off I skimped a bit on this thing now, knowing I'd be employed just as I got it working -- I'd have gone with a 570 instead of a 560 Ti, and probably coughed up for a 7200rpm HDD too).

I'm thinking I may plonk about £140 down on one in a month or so, whilst capitalizing on cheap RAM right now and sticking another 8gb of Vengeance RAM into my machine for when I start doing Photoshop work from home.

Anyone have any experience with this one?

 

[RS4-]

Why?

Mythical 5GHz at lower voltage lol.

I'm not really set on it, its not like I plan on keeping it at that 24/7. It's just nice to have if I can do the trade and spend another $30-40

Hell I just keep mine at 4.5 @ 1.2x something. I think I needed 1.39 or 1.41 to do 4.9GHz.

I'll still look into WCing my system. If I can get a TJ07, I'll go for it. If not, I'll just find a way with the FT02. Been seeing some pretty nice configs lately for it.

 

[Corky]

Why?

He wants that 100 mhz stock speeds difference, like a BOSS!

 

[Loam]

Need more info. What is your monitor budget, size wanted, 1920x1080 or 1920x1200 resolution and use mainly for gaming or work?

Blah sorry about the late response, got swamped with work. The computer I'm building would be primarily for gaming and personal use. More than that I cant really say, this would be the first time I've built a PC so I'm not really tech savvy when it comes to prices or the differences between resolutions. Currently the computer I use is set to 1920x1080, however if there is an advantage to 1920x1200 I wouldn't be opposed to spending more for it.

 

[ColonialRaptor]

Some pics of stuff in new case:

Dem lights:

Front of 500r. Yes the fan lights can be toggled on/off from button in the front:

Just hope everything works ok. On some boots it won't display a picture to my monitor, and I have to reboot to get it. Hopefully that goes away. Cabling is a mess right now, and I haven't hooked up the side panel with the 200mm fan. Wanted to make sure everything worked first.

Looks frighteningly similar to the inside of my case heh

 

[mkenyon]

Mythical 5GHz at lower voltage lol.

I'm not really set on it, its not like I plan on keeping it at that 24/7. It's just nice to have if I can do the trade and spend another $30-40

Hell I just keep mine at 4.5 @ 1.2x something. I think I needed 1.39 or 1.41 to do 4.9GHz.

I'll still look into WCing my system. If I can get a TJ07, I'll go for it. If not, I'll just find a way with the FT02. Been seeing some pretty nice configs lately for it.

Oftentimes, a motherboard can have almost as much if not more to do with it than how well the chip is binned.

Either way, you really want to keep a proc cooled with water when you're pushing volts required for a 5.0Ghz OC, unless it's just for short periods of time.

 

[Smidget]

I have the last portion of my PC very close to being done... just need to get the video card, it's in a completely separate room though.... think I can buy a long HDMI cable from the HDMI out on my computer and use my wireless Xbox computer a room or so over? It'd be messy, but I'd love to get 1080p on my projector for PC gaming.

 

[Lactose_Intolerant]

wireless hdmi?
or, long ass cables http://www.monoprice.com/products/subdepartment.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10240

 

[knitoe]

Mythical 5GHz at lower voltage lol.

I'm not really set on it, its not like I plan on keeping it at that 24/7. It's just nice to have if I can do the trade and spend another $30-40

Hell I just keep mine at 4.5 @ 1.2x something. I think I needed 1.39 or 1.41 to do 4.9GHz.

I'll still look into WCing my system. If I can get a TJ07, I'll go for it. If not, I'll just find a way with the FT02. Been seeing some pretty nice configs lately for it.

I wouldn't be surprise if the 2700Ks are the same chip as 2600Ks except Intel increase the default multiplier. Thus, they will have same overclock limit and voltages.

Blah sorry about the late response, got swamped with work. The computer I'm building would be primarily for gaming and personal use. More than that I cant really say, this would be the first time I've built a PC so I'm not really tech savvy when it comes to prices or the differences between resolutions. Currently the computer I use is set to 1920x1080, however if there is an advantage to 1920x1200 I wouldn't be opposed to spending more for it.

You still need to tell use how much you are willing to spend on the monitor. Plus, what size, 22", 24" or etc.

 

[brotkasten]

It doesn't, to be sure. But I'm willing to settle considering the effort involved to use a G5 case. And I really don't like the custom back for fan/IO cluster - looks really tacky IMO.

I get what you're saying, but I really have to disagree. I mean, tacky? Really? We're talking about the back, not some modifications or paint jobs on the front or side-panels (while doing my homework for this, I've seen a lot of awful things). And to be honest, an uninspired knock-off is worse than a slightly modified version of the original.

What I really want to say: Stop insulting my new wifecase!

If the original I/O panel on the back wasn't so outdated (only two USB ports, FW and even some space for a 56k modem!), I'd hack a PCB with those ports together and connect it to the new mainboard (something like this, but on a single PCB, if possible). But right now it looks like I'll just cut out the I/O panel, not the whole back.

e: Wow, this is also a nice solution. Doesn't solve my problem with the lack of ports, but I'd save the time for a new PCB.
Find a dead logic board, cut the I/O panel out http://i.imgur.com/seWBu.jpg
and solder new, male cables on them http://i.imgur.com/65P65.jpg
I like it http://i.imgur.com/bxWWz.jpg

 

[Smidget]

wireless hdmi?
or, long ass cables http://www.monoprice.com/products/subdepartment.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10240

I should measure and see if 25 ft would do it http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IJY8DS/?tag=neogaf0e-20 The sound would go through it right? Lossless?

And maybe a 10 ft extension cable for the controllers/mice/keyboard (mostly used for controller probably though).

 

[Smokey]

Depending on cooling situation, that's the plan. I might have to get creative with my Arc Mini to have sufficient cooling. Two 240mm rads might not cut it.

If all else fails, I'll mod my 600T to fit a 360mm rad up top and put a 200mm rad in the front. I really like the idea of two 590s all WC'd in a mATX case though.

You don't have the BALLS to do this

 

[Gav47]

I'm sure you guys are getting SSD question every other day, what with current HDD prices and Christmas around the corner, but I can't find an answer to mine in the last couple of question so I'd like to know, what difference do SATA revision have on performance?

My motherboard is an MSI P55 GD65 and it only has SATA2 ports, will this have a negative effect on performance for SSDs in the 120gb range?

Also, Intel 510, 320 or Crucial M4?

 

[PGamer]

I'm sure you guys are getting SSD question every other day, what with current HDD prices and Christmas around the corner, but I can't find an answer to mine in the last couple of question so I'd like to know, what difference do SATA revision have on performance?

My motherboard is an MSI P55 GD65 and it only has SATA2 ports, will this have a negative effect on performance for SSDs in the 120gb range?

Also, Intel 510, 320 or Crucial M4?

SATA 2.0 has a max transfer rate of 3 Gb/s while SATA 3.0 has a max transfer rate of 6 Gb/s. So obviously it will affect your speeds if your drive can do faster than 3 Gb/s. Since you don't have SATA 3 ports, either go with the the Intel 320 or Crucial M4. Intel is generally considered the most reliable SSD brand while I think the M4 is a bit faster in some areas. imo either of them are good buys.

 

[·feist·]

I'm sure you guys are getting SSD question every other day, what with current HDD prices and Christmas around the corner, but I can't find an answer to mine in the last couple of question so I'd like to know, what difference do SATA revision have on performance?

My motherboard is an MSI P55 GD65 and it only has SATA2 ports, will this have a negative effect on performance for SSDs in the 120gb range?

Also, Intel 510, 320 or Crucial M4?

For SATA III, with the room to transfer to a board with proper support later on (or SATA III PCI-e card on your current board): Crucial M4/Micron C400, or Samsung 830. For whatever reason, GAF keeps sleeping on the Samsungs, but I expect it to become a stock answer at some point.

Depending on cooling situation, that's the plan. I might have to get creative with my Arc Mini to have sufficient cooling. Two 240mm rads might not cut it.

If all else fails, I'll mod my 600T to fit a 360mm rad up top and put a 200mm rad in the front. I really like the idea of two 590s all WC'd in a mATX case though.

If so, I hope you're going to opt for something like a San Ace, ball-bearing Lian Li, FDB NZXT, or BitFenix. Possibly even a Phobya 180, or SilverStone AP181. Anything but that stock Corsair fan.

Ugh going to try and sell/trade my 2600k for a 2700k lol

Exceedingly pointless "upgrade," and you know it. You can at least somewhat justify switching to an i7 3770K.

Mythical 5GHz at lower voltage lol.

I'm not really set on it, its not like I plan on keeping it at that 24/7. It's just nice to have if I can do the trade and spend another $30-40

Hell I just keep mine at 4.5 @ 1.2x something. I think I needed 1.39 or 1.41 to do 4.9GHz.

I'll still look into WCing my system. If I can get a TJ07, I'll go for it. If not, I'll just find a way with the FT02. Been seeing some pretty nice configs lately for it.

You were primarily looking into 360s, correct? If you're that bored, why not consider going for a 560, or even a 540? TJ07s still aren't cheap, and since many end up needing to modify it, project costs can easily get out of hand.

Click on the pics.

Fully Watercooled FT-02 (SR-1 560, 100% EK, MCP35X, CH3F, 1090T, 5970)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dow8NflZk7w

Fully Watercooled FT-02 - Noise Test
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cqUGkPReyJ4

http://img228.imageshack.us/i/img0960r.jpg/
http://img824.imageshack.us/i/img0959q.jpg/
http://img831.imageshack.us/i/photo1dd.jpg/

(ENDED) Silverstone FT02-R worklog Special Edition
http://foro.noticias3d.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=342608

Silverstone FT-02 BW 540mm RAD conversion Water Cooled **Sneak Peak**
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8ndg8tEvJew

Silverstone FT-02 BW 540mm RAD conversion Water Cooled** 98% complete**
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XM0LXxsmRYk

Water Chilled Silverstone FT02
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WhHJMHxHa5E

Magicool Extreme Triple 180mm x 35mm Slim Radiator (MC-RADI180X3)

360 of the 180.2 variety:

Magicool Extreme Dual 180mm x 35mm Slim Radiator (MC-RADI180X2)

 

[mkenyon]

For SATA III, with the room to transfer to a board with proper support later on (or SATA III PCI-e card on your current board): Crucial M4/Micron C400, or Samsung 830. For whatever reason, GAF keeps sleeping on the Samsungs, but I expect it to become a stock answer at some point.

If so, I hope you're going to opt for something like a San Ace, ball-bearing Lian Li, FDB NZXT, or BitFenix. Possibly even a Phobya 180, or SilverStone AP181. Anything but that stock Corsair fan.

Regarding SSD's, agreed on the Samsung. I've read quite a few reports that seem to show they're the most reliable of the bunch. I don't know what the junk collection is like on the newest ones though. That's why I was suggesting the newest sandforce drives. No TRIM with OSX.

Regarding the stock 200mm corsair fan, I have 4 of them sitting in my closet, and they'll most likely never come out. (2 from original case, 2 from RMA new case).

Updated my graphics card today from a 4670 to a 6870. When I look at text, I notice the screen seems to shake/flicker. I think it's horizontal lines moving up and down. I'm also outputting from VGA instead of DVI if that makes a difference.

That's probably causing it. Had the same issue with my work monitor until I just bucked up and bought a new dual DVI workstation card. Is your monitor VGA only?

 

[EphemeralDream]

Updated my graphics card today from a 4670 to a 6870. When I look at text, I notice the screen seems to shake/flicker. I think it's horizontal lines moving up and down. I'm also outputting from VGA instead of DVI if that makes a difference.

 

[EphemeralDream]

That's probably causing it. Had the same issue with my work monitor until I just bucked up and bought a new dual DVI workstation card. Is your monitor VGA only?

It does both but I output other devices to the DVI port.

 

[scogoth]

Updated my graphics card today from a 4670 to a 6870. When I look at text, I notice the screen seems to shake/flicker. I think it's horizontal lines moving up and down. I'm also outputting from VGA instead of DVI if that makes a difference.

Use a different VGA cable. If still a problem either the port on your motor (likely) is flaky or the port on your GPU (unlikely) is flaky. Also try to get the VGA cables as far away from any high voltage sources, like power cables, as possible.

But it is most definitely going to be better if you use a digital connection.