I think you should include the Samsung RAM everybody is recomending, let me find the link.
Edit: This one.
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"I need a New PC!" 2012 Thread. 22nm+28nm, Tri-Gate, and reading the OP. [Part 1]
- Thread starter Hazaro
- Start date
- Status
I think you should include the Samsung RAM everybody is recomending, let me find the link.
Edit: This one.
Dr_Boris_Goltz
Banned
Gentlemen I have a few questions.
What would you recommend in terms of prebuilt PCs? My brother is looking into getting into PC gaming and while I don't mind building a computer for myself, I have issues building them for others. I would say his budget is around $500 to $700, but he's more than likely willing to go over that.
The other option is I give him my current computer and instead buy a laptop for myself that also does double duty as something I can take to school. I'm not sure if I'm willing to give up a dedicated PC quite yet though, but with the next generation of consoles looming it's becoming less likely I'll need one.
What is your opinion my friends? Thank you good sirs.
What would you recommend in terms of prebuilt PCs? My brother is looking into getting into PC gaming and while I don't mind building a computer for myself, I have issues building them for others. I would say his budget is around $500 to $700, but he's more than likely willing to go over that.
The other option is I give him my current computer and instead buy a laptop for myself that also does double duty as something I can take to school. I'm not sure if I'm willing to give up a dedicated PC quite yet though, but with the next generation of consoles looming it's becoming less likely I'll need one.
What is your opinion my friends? Thank you good sirs.
specialguy
Banned
That bitfenix prodigy looks awesome. It's no X51 for size, but OTOH it's fairly no compromise and you can build your own.
Yes. I am willing to accept that I can lose all data if one drive fails, but I never had that problem. In fact, all my drive failures came during single mode. All my important data are backed up onto 2 single mode HDDs because of the previous failures.
I'm excited for BitFenix to be coming to Newegg. I was looking at the Bitfenix raider as well and it's one of the nicest looking mid-tower cases as far as I'm concerned. It's hard to make a simple looking box to still look elegant like they do and at a reasonable price at the same time.
oldschoolpinball
Member
Can anyone recommend a pretty good already assembled gaming pc that just needs a good top notch videocard? My old quad processor and gtx 480 pc have bit the dust.im looking to spend around 500-900 max
littleworm
Member
This might not be the perfect place to ask but I'll give it a shot. I am having problems with what appears to be random BSOD failures. When I say random, I mean that there seems to be no rhyme or reason to when the failures happen, sometimes it happens in a game sometimes just browsing the web and sometime at the idling at the log in screen. Anyway I can find out what is causing the problems?
For the money, you can't compare. The Samsung 830 is more expensive.
As for reliability, both require firmware updates.
Infinite Justice
Member
Do you overclock?
I'll leave it in stock for enthusiasts looking for massive OC's on low voltage RAM. Rather just do straight and easy massive stock 1.5V sticks for now.
The 2x4GB kit on newegg has been OOS for 2 weeks at least now.
Very good.
Okay so I have a backup harddrive that has a restore point on it but no system image (because apparently doing a system image takes more space than is available on the friggin drive and I made a 75gb partition for a 64gb ssd that was only about 50gb full UGH)
The drive failed me before and I had to reformat to get windows to play nice, and I would rather not reformat at all, especially not at midnight. It's throwing 0xc00000e9 at me when I try to start it, and in recovery the OS doesn't even show up.
is it possible to wipe and resize the backup harddrive I'm using, then copy over my whole SSD to it, then run windows repair on that harddrive to get a bootsector on it?
That would be the most painless thing I can think of, because while in windows recovery I can still search through the drive.
The drive failed me before and I had to reformat to get windows to play nice, and I would rather not reformat at all, especially not at midnight. It's throwing 0xc00000e9 at me when I try to start it, and in recovery the OS doesn't even show up.
is it possible to wipe and resize the backup harddrive I'm using, then copy over my whole SSD to it, then run windows repair on that harddrive to get a bootsector on it?
That would be the most painless thing I can think of, because while in windows recovery I can still search through the drive.
littleworm
Member
No I haven't overclocked yet.
FunkyMunkey
Banned
Hey all! It's that time for me to build a new gaming PC 
. Here's what I've narrowed it down to:
Rosewill CHALLENGER Black Gaming ATX Mid Tower Computer Case, comes with Three Fans-1x Front Blue LED 120mm Fan, 1x Top 140mm
Model #:CHALLENGER
Item #:N82E16811147153
$59.99 -$10.00 Instant $49.99
ASUS P8B75-V LGA 1155 Intel B75 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard
Model #8B75-V
Item #:N82E16813131835
$104.99
EVGA 02G-P4-2678-KR GeForce GTX 670 FTW 2GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 3.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video Card
Model #:02G-P4-2678-KR
Item #:N82E16814130787
$419.99
Rosewill RP600V2-S-SL 600W ATX12V v2.01 SLI Ready Power Supply
Model #:RP600V2-S-SL
Item #:N82E16817182032
$79.99 -$20.00 Instant $59.99
Intel Core i5-2500K Sandy Bridge 3.3GHz (3.7GHz Turbo Boost) LGA 1155 95W Quad-Core Desktop Processor Intel HD Graphics 3000
Model #:BX80623I52500K
Item #:N82E16819115072
$219.99
CORSAIR Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model CMZ8GX3M2A1600C9B
Model #:CMZ8GX3M2A1600C9B
Item #:N82E16820145345
$54.99
Western Digital RE4 WD5003ABYX 500GB 7200 RPM SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive
Model #:WD5003ABYX
Item #:N82E16822136697
$119.99 -$20.00 Instant $99.99
Logitech K270 Black USB RF Wireless Standard Keyboard
Model #:920-003051
Item #:N82E16823126198
$29.99 -$7.00 Instant $22.99
ASUS DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS Black SATA 24X DVD Burner - Bulk - OEM
Model #RW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS
Item #:N82E16827135204
$17.99
Subtotal: $1,050.91
I already have a mouse and I'm picking up this monitor:
ASUS VS Series VS238H-P Black 23" 2ms HDMI LED Backlight Widescreen LCD Monitor 250 cd/m2 50,000,000:1
$169.99
Suggestions welcome. How does that look? Any areas I could save money or something? Maybe some deals I missed or something haha.
. Here's what I've narrowed it down to:Rosewill CHALLENGER Black Gaming ATX Mid Tower Computer Case, comes with Three Fans-1x Front Blue LED 120mm Fan, 1x Top 140mm
Model #:CHALLENGER
Item #:N82E16811147153
$59.99 -$10.00 Instant $49.99
ASUS P8B75-V LGA 1155 Intel B75 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard
Model #
8B75-VItem #:N82E16813131835
$104.99
EVGA 02G-P4-2678-KR GeForce GTX 670 FTW 2GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 3.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video Card
Model #:02G-P4-2678-KR
Item #:N82E16814130787
$419.99
Rosewill RP600V2-S-SL 600W ATX12V v2.01 SLI Ready Power Supply
Model #:RP600V2-S-SL
Item #:N82E16817182032
$79.99 -$20.00 Instant $59.99
Intel Core i5-2500K Sandy Bridge 3.3GHz (3.7GHz Turbo Boost) LGA 1155 95W Quad-Core Desktop Processor Intel HD Graphics 3000
Model #:BX80623I52500K
Item #:N82E16819115072
$219.99
CORSAIR Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model CMZ8GX3M2A1600C9B
Model #:CMZ8GX3M2A1600C9B
Item #:N82E16820145345
$54.99
Western Digital RE4 WD5003ABYX 500GB 7200 RPM SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive
Model #:WD5003ABYX
Item #:N82E16822136697
$119.99 -$20.00 Instant $99.99
Logitech K270 Black USB RF Wireless Standard Keyboard
Model #:920-003051
Item #:N82E16823126198
$29.99 -$7.00 Instant $22.99
ASUS DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS Black SATA 24X DVD Burner - Bulk - OEM
Model #
RW-24B1ST/BLK/B/ASItem #:N82E16827135204
$17.99
Subtotal: $1,050.91
I already have a mouse and I'm picking up this monitor:
ASUS VS Series VS238H-P Black 23" 2ms HDMI LED Backlight Widescreen LCD Monitor 250 cd/m2 50,000,000:1
$169.99
Suggestions welcome. How does that look? Any areas I could save money or something? Maybe some deals I missed or something haha.
Test your RAM.
Run the Windows Memory Diagnostic program (type it in the Aero search menu).
See if it passes.
littleworm
Member
I just ran the test and passed. The search continues.
Do you have a SSD setup?
What graphics drivers did you install?
------------
What does the program "Event Viewer" (use Aero search) say about the time of BSOD? Should be shown as a red X.
Which file caused it?
littleworm
Member
Yeah, I have a SSD set up, as for the Graphics Driver its whatever the driver that originally comes installed.
autobzooty
Member
Can anyone recommend me a good chiclet keyboard? I've decided that I officially like them way more than traditional "gaming keyboards" and I'm looking to trade up. Newegg's selection of them is woefully limited though.
littleworm
Member
This is the error report I got
Log Name: System
Source: Microsoft-Windows-WER-SystemErrorReporting
Date: 5/25/2012 12:04:35 AM
Event ID: 1001
Task Category: None
Level: Error
Keywords: Classic
User: N/A
Computer: Ian-PC
Description:
The computer has rebooted from a bugcheck. The bugcheck was: 0x00000124 (0x0000000000000000, 0xfffffa8009860028, 0x00000000be200000, 0x000000000005110a). A dump was saved in: C:\Windows\MEMORY.DMP. Report Id: 052512-6536-01.
Event Xml:
<Event xmlns="http://schemas.microsoft.com/win/2004/08/events/event">
<System>
<Provider Name="Microsoft-Windows-WER-SystemErrorReporting" Guid="{ABCE23E7-DE45-4366-8631-84FA6C525952}" EventSourceName="BugCheck" />
<EventID Qualifiers="16384">1001</EventID>
<Version>0</Version>
<Level>2</Level>
<Task>0</Task>
<Opcode>0</Opcode>
<Keywords>0x80000000000000</Keywords>
<TimeCreated SystemTime="2012-05-25T04:04:35.000000000Z" />
<EventRecordID>57222</EventRecordID>
<Correlation />
<Execution ProcessID="0" ThreadID="0" />
<Channel>System</Channel>
<Computer>Ian-PC</Computer>
<Security />
</System>
<EventData>
<Data Name="param1">0x00000124 (0x0000000000000000, 0xfffffa8009860028, 0x00000000be200000, 0x000000000005110a)</Data>
<Data Name="param2">C:\Windows\MEMORY.DMP</Data>
<Data Name="param3">052512-6536-01</Data>
</EventData>
</Event>
specialguy
Banned
I have kind of a odd question, I'm overclocking my Q6600, which the only way I can is raising the FSB I think, anyways I noticed when I raised it to 3.0, the Windows startup chime sounds stuttery and corrupted. Everything else is fine but that kinda bugs me...
Also any Q6600 OC tips? I think I read somewhere that at some point you may need to up the north bridge voltage? Not even sure if my motherboard is capable of that...
Also any Q6600 OC tips? I think I read somewhere that at some point you may need to up the north bridge voltage? Not even sure if my motherboard is capable of that...
MisterNoisy
Member
Hey all! It's that time for me to build a new gaming PC
(Build snipped)
Suggestions welcome. How does that look? Any areas I could save money or something? Maybe some deals I missed or something haha.
Just off the top of my head:
Replace the motherboard and HDD with this combo:
Biostar TZ77XE3 + 1TB Caviar Black $20 off combo - $214.98 and nets you a Z77 board with a 1TB HDD for $9 more than what you've listed. There's a bunch of combos with the motherboard, so you may want to take a look through all of them. Another one to look at: Same mobo with 500GB Caviar Black for $195.
Never had much experience with Rosewill PSUs, so my 'default' inexpensive PSU recommendation:
Antec Neo ECO 520C or 620C - $59.99/69.99
I've transplanted a PC into a Challenger case, and while it's not 'bad', it's kinda cheap feeling. The NZXT Source 210 from the OP or the NZXT Source 210 Elite are better at that price, IMO - $39.99/49.99
littleworm
Member
I have a Crucial M4 128 gig and a GTX 570 Graphics Card.
FunkyMunkey
Banned
This is great! Thanks a lot. Some of those combos are a really good move. How's Biostar's rep? I've never bought anything from them prior.
And that case is hot. Reminds me of Portal lol, clean and simple. I'd need to grab a couple 120mm fans (the Challenger one comes with 3 instead of 1), but I really like it.
Update your Crucial M4 firmware as a new one was released last month.
http://www.crucial.com/support/firmware.aspx
Be sure to backup sensitive data. I would use the non-Windows updater (requires blank CD or USB drive), but that's just a personal thing.
--------------
As for the graphics card, refer to http://www.geforce.com/ for the latest drivers.
Have you tried running Prime95 on your setup?
You also may need to up the voltage if the setup is not stable. What motherboard do you have and did you mix/match RAM?
MisterNoisy
Member
Biostar has historically been a budget motherboard vendor, but they're making a play for value-minded enthusiast now. I've used a couple of their 880G AMD boards with nothing but good results.
If you're buying fans before the 28th, use code 'EMCNEHH244' to get 20% off.
JetBlackPanda
Member
For 800 bucks you could build yourself an i5 2500k machine that will be pretty damn good.
Do you have reservations against building yourself?
FunkyMunkey
Banned
The reviews look sound. And that case seems to stay really cool. I'm seriously leaning towards them. And thanks for the code too! I can never find any.
Just finished my build and installing Windows 7 and all its updates(Took like 2 hours since I had an old dvd of one of the first Windows 7 Ultimate from MSDN.)
Took like five hours total. Had to replant my mobo to the case since I couldn't install the 212+ with the mobo on the case. Rest was pretty easy.
i5 3570K
AsRock z77 Pro 4
Cooler MAster 212+
Corsair Vengence 8GB
Samsung 830 128 GB
Zalmon Z9
Samsung DVD -RW
First computer I built since 2002. An Athlon XP. When I first saw my ssd and dvd drive. I was like wtf are these connections. Never seen a sata or a sata power before.
The system is running fantastic. Quiet and fast. Never had a machine this fast. When I first saw the 212 cooler compared to the stock intel one I was like lol.
Took like five hours total. Had to replant my mobo to the case since I couldn't install the 212+ with the mobo on the case. Rest was pretty easy.
i5 3570K
AsRock z77 Pro 4
Cooler MAster 212+
Corsair Vengence 8GB
Samsung 830 128 GB
Zalmon Z9
Samsung DVD -RW
First computer I built since 2002. An Athlon XP. When I first saw my ssd and dvd drive. I was like wtf are these connections. Never seen a sata or a sata power before.
The system is running fantastic. Quiet and fast. Never had a machine this fast. When I first saw the 212 cooler compared to the stock intel one I was like lol.
Hawk269
Member
1. different radiator like mkenyon said. http://martinsliquidlab.org/ is the best place to read up on parts at the moment. GTX690 doesn't get that hot, 2011 six core does, so with 2 good 2*120 radiators you should be able to pull it off I guess (assuming one GTX690)
2. bayres with integrated pump can be potentially noisy; if you have to space just put the pump somewhere you can isolate the vibrations better
3. that tubing is pretty thick ... 3/8 - 1/2 is what I use myself, and I would go for 3/8 - 5/8 if I would start over again (for some extra bending without anti-kink coils)
4. I advise compression fittings and a tube cutter. Nothing can go wrong as long as you're patient and pay attention
if you have little space for radiators and but have enough space in your room (and don't move the rig allll the time) ... http://www.frozencpu.com/products/1..._-_Black_Powder_Coat_22120.html?tl=g30c95s667
this is the one I'm using, there's also 9*120 and 4*180 (which perform the same) that also should be more than adequate. You just have these somewhere next to your case (buy feet seperately) and connect them using the Koolance Quick Disconnect fittings that you place on the back of your case. http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l2/g30/c405/list/p1/Liquid_Cooling-Fittings-Quick_Disconnects.html. Even with Intel Burn Test and Furmark at the same time water would not go more than 5c over ambient at 900 rpm
yeah that is most likely the issue. Weird that the store didn't tell him that when he bought it though ... can't they update the bios for them? you should at least expect some service when you're still buying at a brick&mortar store right
If you must get another board, I've heard pretty good things about the #3 (Asrock) board... Z77M for the #2 is just the name of the board, the chipset should still be Z77
Thank you so much for all the tips. I am getting closer to choosing my parts. What are your thoughts on these RADS I selected?
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/8522/ex-rad-145/XSPC_RX240_Dual_120mm_Radiator.html
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/1...ple_140mm_Low_Profile_Split_Fin_Radiator.html
For the compression fittings, you said you recommend that the tube and compression fittings be the same size. Ideally, what is the best size to get? Also, with compression fittings, do you need clamps to secure the tube?
Thanks again for your help and others.
Thanks OP for all the great information. Built a new budget gaming computer.
Intel Core i3 2120
ASUS P8H61-I
2x4GB G.Skill DDR3-1600MHz
Gigabyte Radeon HD 7770 OC
Crucial M4 128GB SSD
Antec VP-450 PSU
Antec One Case
Came out to around $570 CAD. Only thing I'm missing is a wireless network card. Any idea if there's a big difference between a USB based one vs. a PCI-e based one? Brands? The Patriot mini wireless N USB adapter is only $7.99 right now.
Intel Core i3 2120
ASUS P8H61-I
2x4GB G.Skill DDR3-1600MHz
Gigabyte Radeon HD 7770 OC
Crucial M4 128GB SSD
Antec VP-450 PSU
Antec One Case
Came out to around $570 CAD. Only thing I'm missing is a wireless network card. Any idea if there's a big difference between a USB based one vs. a PCI-e based one? Brands? The Patriot mini wireless N USB adapter is only $7.99 right now.
I found the problem, it was my RAM that wasnt in Dual Channel, now my score is correct (15% increase) !
Grats!
Yup. They are offering at a lower price point with more features and they seem to be ok so far. The Z77 push tipped me over after their cheap featured Z68 board.
Historically 95% of USB wireless is complete trash, but I think there are a FEW decent ones now. It's a review hunt for sure.
Personally I'd always use an add-on card, but I haven't read up on this in a long time.
the RX line are among the best performers, the EX performs less due to being thinner but it has more surface area as its 140 mm ... so I'd say 100 W for the RX240 and a little less than 200 W for the EX420. So that's 300W of heat removed with 1000 rpm fans (nice and silent) at 10c water(-to-ambient) delta (not extremely low, but surely better than a H100)
300W should be enough for a Six Core 2011 + 690 GPU in gaming, especially because we won't have voltage adjustment on the 670/80/90 ever ... Intel Burn Test + Furmark is going to generate more heat, but then you should just turn the fans up higher
I don't recommend compression and tubing to be the same, they HAVE to be the same else they won't work
compression fittings work with a separate threaded "nut" that screws down over the base fitting so that it very tightly grips the tubing. If the compression fittings you use have different dimensions than the tubing they will never be correctly secured; i.e. either the tubing is loose or the nut doesn't have enough threadingtubing has inner and outer diameters, the larger the size difference between the two the more bend radius the tubing has without kinking. Inner Diameter should be at least 3/8. Basically the three most used dimensions are 3/8 ID 1/2 OD, 3/8 ID 5/8 OD (thicker walls so more bending) and 1/2 ID 3/4 OD. There are a lot more sizes but it's harder to find fittings for those.
Higher ID allows for a little more flow, but flowrates should never be an issue unless you go crazy with blocks and radiators and use only a single pump. The 3/4 OD tubing is also rather massive, and although you might like or not like the look of that, the main issue I have with it is that the compression fittings themselves become so bulky that they have issues fitting on certain blocks, as the threaded holes for fittings are too close together. So if you go for that size, always google whether the block you're choosing fits with compression fittings of that size. In general I think most 3/8 ID tubing setups use compression fittings, whereas most 3/4 OD setups I see use regular barbs with clamps
anyway this is a good video showing the difference between the types of fittings, and how they should be installed http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L5uQAUre9CY&feature=plcp
I've also heard pretty good things about those Monsoon Free Center compression fittings. Although I'm not that impressed by their looks, they come with a special wrench which allows you to easily install them and their compression rings. (which sounds great because everytime I redo my loop my fingertops are raw for days because of hand-tightening all those fittings lol)
as for the pump; D5 if you have the space.
Okay, I'm getting a brain aneurysm over this shit - How do I stop this fucking box from popping up in every damn game and minimizing them?
Googled it some time ago and found some Windows tweaks and setting they claim to be working but it still pops up. I need to get rid of that once and for all.
( No, I don't want to run Windows classic or basic )
Googled it some time ago and found some Windows tweaks and setting they claim to be working but it still pops up. I need to get rid of that once and for all.
( No, I don't want to run Windows classic or basic )
I've never seen that pop-up even in games which are taxing my 512MB GPU. I have to manually disable Aero in the .exe properties. Once I disabled Aero for BF3 I got a 10fps boost which is just astonishing.
Weren't games supposed to disable Aero automatically in Win7. I guess it's a feature the game dev has to enable which virtually no one bothers to do.
Weren't games supposed to disable Aero automatically in Win7. I guess it's a feature the game dev has to enable which virtually no one bothers to do.
ugh so annoying
I think if you go to a game's .exe, rightclick and in the compatibility tab set checkmarks at Disable Visual Themes & Disable Desktop Composition it automatically disables Aero when you start the game, so that thing won't pop-up
only happened to me in BF3 though with the 480, haven't seen it on the 670s yet...
Yeah that's what I've done before but it really isn't an option, I can't be bothered doing that with every Steam game as well - Browsing the Steam folders, then I forgot a few games etc. there has to be a Windows setting somewhere that disables it for good.
ToyMachine228
Member
So I have a tower that is randomly shutting restarting itself. I figured the first thing I would try is a new power supply. So I bought one. Had my friend install it and he says that its missing the cable that plugs into the motherboard. I thought these things were standard? Am I missing something?
Need some help here.
BackwardsSuggestions
Member
Right, folks. Any ideas before I have to buy another?
Power light on the Motherboard is lit up yet it won't boot at all. Nothing. Not by jumping it or with the power button.
Power light on the Motherboard is lit up yet it won't boot at all. Nothing. Not by jumping it or with the power button.
Try disabling transparency in Personalization, maybe it'll go away once you make a change yourself.
Alright, so now that I've got my funds, the day after the DCU2 TOP comes out, I have to play the waiting game to purchase one. I'm not budging over $430 though.
MisterNoisy
Member
faceless007
Member
Anyone know a good n00b-friendly IB overclocking guide? The one in the OP is for SB, and anyway the site seems to be down.
Hey chaps i'm getting all my parts tomorrow but without the Evo 212 because it was damaged stock apparently, it should cool to set everything up then change the stock cooler sometime next week right? Is there any coolers you would recommend if it's not possible to get the Evo? Depending what it is i might be able to get it for tomorrow.
Thanks for the help.
Thanks for the help.
MWS Natural
Member
Download a BSOD viewer it will tell you what drive is causing them.
- Status