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"I need a New PC!" 2012 Thread. 22nm+28nm, Tri-Gate, and reading the OP. [Part 1]

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JJBro One

Member
Finally finished putting it all together. I'm going to end up doing a custom loop but this is it completed...for now.

00bf3.jpg


CfkX1.jpg


Once again, Mkenyon was there to assist me throughout the whole process and deserves all the credit for putting this together.
how big is that case? I have a haf 932 and that's pretty big.
 

radjago

Member
Are the most recent video cards (the ones that came out this year) just the GTX 670-90 and Radeon HD 7000 series? I'm asking this because I can't afford a high tier video card and I want a mid tier video card because they're more affordable.

Basically my question is, does release dates matter on video cards when deciding which tier level video card you want to buy?

The new 6xx and 7xxx series cards generally use less power and run cooler than their previous gen counterparts. They also tend to perform better in newer games than the last series. You may want to wait to see what nVidia does with their 650 and 660 models.

How mid-tier are you looking? Newegg has a 6850 on sale today for $120 after rebate. The 6850 is about the best price/perfomance value you can get.

I generally agree with Tom's recommendations.
 

abunai

Member
thank you; i wouldnt know how to read them myself.
http://www.mediafire.com/?fuj1ekyxkm9ynya

Thanks, I'm just back from work so I'll give them a browse in a minute.

edit: ok, the dumps have been blaming system drivers from USBPORT.SYS to TCPIP.sys, stuff that will never cause BSOD's on their own. What's probably happening is another driver is requesting CPU cycles when USBPORT.SYS/whatever has already been scheduled to read from system memory, leaving the pc at a dead-end, resulting in the BSOD. The logs you supplied don't point to any particular device, as they blame USBPORT.sys, TCPIP,sys and DXGMMS1.sys so you'll need to do a bit more work to solve the problem.

Try running a program like Driver Verifier (link) to see if it picks anything up. If you're lucky, it'll see what driver is causing the CPU interrupts and you can install a newer version/whatever. It doesn't always pick up janky drivers however. Do you have an external USB devices? HDD/Sound card/DAC or something. Three of the five dumps blamed USBPORT.sys, so the problematic device seems to interrupt fairly frequently when your pc needs to do something over USB.
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
well; ive got windows installed and everything', and all the hardware bits and pieces check out/are found/are operating, but im having some stability issues.

i've had 4 driver related bsod's and one case where the screen blanked and audio looped [while in a game]; are these things that will smooth out with time and lots of updates or might there be an actual problem?

still working through my windows updates backlog; but all the disc based stuff has been installed.

but yeah.
sound plays
the gpu works
logins are no problem
the heatsink fan spins
temperatures are reasonable at 40-50C for the weather we're having atm [30+c with humidity]
everything seems to work; it just bsod's sometimes.
Run memtest86+ for 15 minutes, overnight if possible.
Your Current Specs: AMD Quadcore 3 GHz / 4 GB RAM / ATI Radeon HD4890
Budget: $1000-3000 (keep in mind that everything is more expensive in Sweden)
Main Use: Gaming, emulation (PS2/Wii), HD streaming, music production, graphics editing, software development.
Monitor Resolution: 24" 1080p monitor + 46" 1080p TV. I might want to add a second 24" monitor.
List SPECIFIC games that you MUST be able to play: Arma 2, Witcher 2, Battlefield 3 on max settings at 60 FPS. I'd also like to be able to play upcoming games on high settings at 60 FPS for the next two years.
Looking to reuse any parts?: Nope, I'm going to make my current rig into an Ubuntu server.
When will you build?: This summer, unless there is a good reason to wait.
Will you be overclocking?: No (or maybe a little). System stability is more important to me.

My current system is three years old and I want a new machine that's significantly more powerful. This time I was thinking of going with Intel and Nvidia instead of AMD. Can you guys help me narrow down the target specs?
CPU: Something good from Intel. Maybe an Intel Core i7 3770K 3,5Ghz? The top end models are rarely worth the extra cost.
GPU: Powerful single card from Nvidia. I'm still not convinced about SLI.
RAM: 16 GB
HDD: SSD 120-160 GB + 2 2TB HDDs. I currently use SyncBack Pro to mirror my documents to an external drive, but it's probably cheaper and easier to just buy an additional internal HDD. Is using RAID1 preferable to my current synchronizing solution?
Motherboard: Uhm...the latest? I don't keep up with these things anymore.
Case: Something quiet, with minimalistic design and no flashing lights or colors.
OS: I already own a copy of Windows 7 Professional.

Will the system above be a noticeable jump in performance or am I better off waiting for another year?
Well, hopefully next year brings the new socket and revision from Intel (The Tock), but buying the Enthusiast Build with a 680 right now is absolutely no slouch and a good buy.
http://i.imgur.com/HJo72.png

http://i.imgur.com/tYK1i.jpg

Got a 9x9 fan in the front and one in the back but apparently they can't do much. Heatsink is a 212 Evo.

Tons of chrome tabs open, mirc and msn, not much else.

gpu goes from 104F/40°C up to 130F/55°C with 50% fan.

Environment is like 100F/37°C.

Should I change case? Would a CM 430 be enough? I read about the Xigmatek Asgard II but it looks kinda eh.
What are your load temps? Any spots for fans?
Source 210 I like, or the elite model for extra fans.
Are the most recent video cards (the ones that came out this year) just the GTX 670-90 and Radeon HD 7000 series? I'm asking this because I can't afford a high tier video card and I want a mid tier video card because they're more affordable.

Basically my question is, does release dates matter on video cards when deciding which tier level video card you want to buy?
Release dates right now, not really.
Newer cards will often have better performance per watt, but pricing is near absolute on $/performance.

6850 and 6870 are the best values, although the 7770 is dipping down enough in price where it's competitive.
 

Trey

Member
About how often should I physically clean my PC (dusting, etc), and what tools are recommended for general maintenance?
 

abunai

Member
About how often should I physically clean my PC (dusting, etc), and what tools are recommended for general maintenance?

It depends on how many filters you have on your case/how well they work. I get away with doing a light clean every 6 months (HAF 932 case). Compressed air, lint-free cloth and a paintbrush are handy for getting in all the corners.
 

feel

Member
2 XL2420Ts, planning on expanding to a third iirc.

So, 120hz, the refresh rate of the gods. Not some plebeian 60hz. :p
Is the Samsung S23A950D good? If not what 23" 120hz monitor would you recommend? Preferably something without awful colors or prone to backlight bleeding on corners.
 

mkenyon

Banned
Is the Samsung S23A950D good? If not what 23" 120hz monitor would you recommend? Preferably something without awful colors or prone to backlight bleeding on corners.
The S23A700D, 750D, and 950D are all the same panel.

Basic difference is 700D crappy stand, 750D has a less crappy stand with tons of 'eco' features that are useless and need to be turned off, and the 950D has a really fancy thin asymmetrical stand. Also, 700D = Dual Link DVI 120hz only, 750D = Displayport 120hz only, 950D = both I think, or maybe just Dual Link DVI.

I have a 750D which is my primary monitor, bought it about 2 months before the BenQ came out, and got it on sale at Fry's for $225. I've personally purchased a lot of those XL2420T's for teammates, and they're fricken fantastic, but I'd say my monitor has better colors. Honestly, it's not even a huge difference in IQ/colors compared to the Crossover (apple cinema display panel) that is sitting next to it. The input lag isn't quite as nice as the 2420T though, I think its 9ms for the samsung, 5ms for the Benq.
 

feel

Member
The S23A700D, 750D, and 950D are all the same panel.

Basic difference is 700D crappy stand, 750D has a less crappy stand with tons of 'eco' features that are useless and need to be turned off, and the 950D has a really fancy thin asymmetrical stand. Also, 700D = Dual Link DVI 120hz only, 750D = Displayport 120hz only, 950D = both I think, or maybe just Dual Link DVI.

I have a 750D which is my primary monitor, bought it about 2 months before the BenQ came out, and got it on sale at Fry's for $225. I've personally purchased a lot of those XL2420T's for teammates, and they're fricken fantastic, but I'd say my monitor has better colors. Honestly, it's not even a huge difference in IQ/colors compared to the Crossover (apple cinema display panel) that is sitting next to it. The input lag isn't quite as nice as the 2420T though, I think its 9ms for the samsung, 5ms for the Benq.
Thanks for the input!
 

Pandaman

Everything is moe to me
Thanks, I'm just back from work so I'll give them a browse in a minute.

edit: ok, the dumps have been blaming system drivers from USBPORT.SYS to TCPIP.sys, stuff that will never cause BSOD's on their own. What's probably happening is another driver is requesting CPU cycles when USBPORT.SYS/whatever has already been scheduled to read from system memory, leaving the pc at a dead-end, resulting in the BSOD. The logs you supplied don't point to any particular device, as they blame USBPORT.sys, TCPIP,sys and DXGMMS1.sys so you'll need to do a bit more work to solve the problem.

Try running a program like Driver Verifier (link) to see if it picks anything up. If you're lucky, it'll see what driver is causing the CPU interrupts and you can install a newer version/whatever. It doesn't always pick up janky drivers however. Do you have an external USB devices? HDD/Sound card/DAC or something. Three of the five dumps blamed USBPORT.sys, so the problematic device seems to interrupt fairly frequently when your pc needs to do something over USB.
i have a wireless adapter plugged in through usb.
also keyboard/mouse
 
Been looking through the recommended UK websites in the OP and had a look at the customiser on Dinopc, I want something that can run anything I throw at it and hopefully emulate Wii games with Dolphin after living with a pc that struggles with something like World Of Warcraft. Anything I should change? (I'm sure I have gone wrong somewhere and can change something to bring down the price)

7oekM.png
 

Arken2121

Member
A third is coming and Mkenyon helped me put together a custom loop for water. I really like the H100 but it could always be better. Mkenyon=god among men with help and being just awesome.
 

Edgeward

Member
So Im gonna build my pc this friday. Gonna be exciting but i have a quick Q. I know my old hdd should be recognized fine so no need to back it up externally when i transfer to the new hdd. But my old 1tb hdd is actually 2 500 hdds partitioned together. Will it get recognized just fine by the new computer with no issue?
 

ArecxP

Banned
Let me get this straight. When applying thermal paste, you just need to apply it as a pea sized ball and put the heatsink on? No spreading it evenly across the CPU? I might need to fix that because I did a even spread with a credit card lol
 
Let me get this straight. When applying thermal paste, you just need to apply it as a pea sized ball and put the heatsink on? No spreading it evenly across the CPU? I might need to fix that because I did a even spread with a credit card lol

That's what I did. I just put some on top of the IHS (the top part of the CPU) and then put the heat sink on with some light pressure to let it spread itself.
 

Curufinwe

Member
You'd think it'd have HDMI for that price. No big deal for you I guess?

No, since it's going to be used as a computer monitor and in the unlikely event I want to use it with a console in the future then HDMI to DVI converters are cheap.

Interestingly, of the three other IPS monitors I considered only the cheapest one had HDMI inputs. And it actually had two of them, but no DVI input.

AOC I2353PH 23 - Inch Widescreen Ultra Slim IPS LED Monitor with Dual HDMI - Brushed Metal

These two Dells had no HDMI inputs.

Dell UltraSharp U2412M 24" LED LCD Monitor - 16:10 - 8 ms

Dell UltraSharp U2312HM 23" IPS LED LCD Monitor - 16:9 - 8 ms
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
Been looking through the recommended UK websites in the OP and had a look at the customiser on Dinopc, I want something that can run anything I throw at it and hopefully emulate Wii games with Dolphin after living with a pc that struggles with something like World Of Warcraft. Anything I should change? (I'm sure I have gone wrong somewhere and can change something to bring down the price)

7oekM.png
Look not bad for a prebuilt.
Let me get this straight. When applying thermal paste, you just need to apply it as a pea sized ball and put the heatsink on? No spreading it evenly across the CPU? I might need to fix that because I did a even spread with a credit card lol
No 'need'. Just varying degrees of it being better or not. If temps are fine, it's fine.
Mmmmm. It should, but not recommended. How long have you owned the PSU?
 

Gav47

Member
Can anyone who bought their 2560x1440 monitor from Accessorieswhole tell me how long shipping took, my dispatch email said 15-30 days which seems kinda excessive for Fedex. Also, did you get a tracking number?
 

Ocho

Member
I hit my budget limit and I can't get the Arc Midi (can only buy from Amazon and it costs a whopping $130 shipped) and I don't really like the CM 690 II Advanced ($89) (I prefer simple/plain/elegant cases). What's another good option for a case with, preferably, dust filters?

I'm still trying to see if I can push to get the Midi, but if I can't I want to know what are my other options.

EDIT: nevermind, cant stop thinking midi
 
Built my new PC today.

Fractal Design Arc Midi case
Evga GTX 680 FTW
GSkill 32 GB
128 GB Crucial M4
500 GB Seagate
Corsair 650 W HX power supply
Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo

The case didn't include a manual. I was like wtf. What screws do what. Can you tell me features. Assembly. Their website isn't much help. I had to look at the New Egg review to get an idea. I was like what is this fan controller. It doesn't take long, but documentation helps, Fractal Design.

I couldn't remember which of the LED, power, HDD connection was positive and negative. The old color and white methodology no longer applies.

Right now I'm getting temps of 44 C for my CPU. Seems okay, but I expected a lower temp using this heat sink.
 

ink4n3

Member
I hit my budget limit and I can't get the Arc Midi (can only buy from Amazon and it costs a whopping $130 shipped) and I don't really like the CM 690 II Advanced ($89) (I prefer simple/plain/elegant cases). What's another good option for a case with, preferably, dust filters?

I'm still trying to see if I can push to get the Midi, but if I can't I want to know what are my other options.

EDIT: nevermind, cant stop thinking midi

I'm in the same boat you are. I like the simple, clean cases but just can't decide. I think I have it narrowed down to the Arc Midi or the Define XL.

I like the looks of the Define XL, but it's a bit more and I'm not sure I really need all that noise dampening. Does the foam in front of the fans make them pull less air in or is it really not that big of a deal?

Built my new PC today.

Fractal Design Arc Midi case
Evga GTX 680 FTW
GSkill 32 GB
128 GB Crucial M4
500 GB Seagate
Corsair 650 W HX power supply
Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo

The case didn't include a manual. I was like wtf. What screws do what. Can you tell me features. Assembly. Their website isn't much help. I had to look at the New Egg review to get an idea. I was like what is this fan controller. It doesn't take long, but documentation helps, Fractal Design.

I couldn't remember which of the LED, power, HDD connection was positive and negative. The old color and white methodology no longer applies.

Right now I'm getting temps of 44 C for my CPU. Seems okay, but I expected a lower temp using this heat sink.

Are you happy with the case?
 
Are you happy with the case?
Seems nice. A bit no frills. No HDD activity lights. No reset button. The fans may or may not be great (and might need to be replaced. No instruction manual, which is weird. Plastic instead of aluminum, etc.

I do like the simple look. I like the space. I like the removable top HD bays. I like the fan controller. I like the filters. It wasn't hard to out together. Easy to cable manage (mine is a bit messy because of the retarded power cables.
 

Deadstar

Member
Hey everyone. What are a few of the best 24'' 120hz lcd/led monitors out there for gaming? I am not interested in the 3d really, just buying the 120 hz for more smoothness. Is there a consensus as to which monitor is best?

I've heard a lot of good things about the BenQ XL2420T but am wondering if there is something better. Also it seems that the BenQ is 23.6 diagonal and not true 24 like my curent monitor which is annoying but I'll deal with it.
 

Edgeward

Member
Is it worth it to get an 80gb SSD just to boot the OS? And does it even become a hassle with file management redirecting everything to the hdd? I don't actually know if this is even an issue.
 

abunai

Member
i have a wireless adapter plugged in through usb.
also keyboard/mouse

Hmm. How did memtest+ go?


Is it worth it to get an 80gb SSD just to boot the OS? And does it even become a hassle with file management redirecting everything to the hdd? I don't actually know if this is even an issue.

The speed is worth it yeah. It's not a hassle really, you can move all the windows 7 Documents/Pictures/Music libraries to another folder natively so if you move them to the HDD to save space, it'll work seamlessly. Stuff like the steam mover program is easy as well.
 

Witchfinder General

punched Wheelchair Mike
Bleh, after two days my Logitech G700 mouse died. Gotta send it back for a replacement. I'm having to use my Mac Magicmouse as a stop gap. Yeah, I know.

Question: I seem to be unable to get picture from the HDMI out from my mobo. Using the HDMI from my GTX670 is fine. My mobo is a Gigabyte G1.Sniper 3.

Cheers.
 

cametall

Member
Question about overclocking.

I have an i5 3570K. Turns out the company that built my PC did OC the CPU to 4ghz.

I have a limited understanding (reading tons of articles and how-tos now) on what is done to OC a CPU, but I did notice the vcore is set to 1.3. Is that overkill for this clockspeed?

It appears to be easy to OC the IB Intels and from what I've read you can reach 4ghz without upping the vcore at all (or maybe very little).
 

MrBig

Member
Question about overclocking.

I have an i5 3570K. Turns out the company that built my PC did OC the CPU to 4ghz.

I have a limited understanding (reading tons of articles and how-tos now) on what is done to OC a CPU, but I did notice the vcore is set to 1.3. Is that overkill for this clockspeed?

It appears to be easy to OC the IB Intels and from what I've read you can reach 4ghz without upping the vcore at all (or maybe very little).

Yes, that's quite high. I'm at 4.4ghz 1.145v, stable for the last few weeks.
 

cametall

Member
Yes, that's quite high. I'm at 4.4ghz 1.145v, stable for the last few weeks.

Is it safe to just knock it down a few notches? Should I drop it by 0.1 integers at a time and restart? 0.01 at a time?

How will I know if it gets too low? Does the computer BSOD or just fail POST?
 

MrBig

Member
Is it safe to just knock it down a few notches? Should I drop it by 0.1 integers at a time and restart? 0.01 at a time?

How will I know if it gets too low? Does the computer BSOD or just fail POST?

Are you on an Asus mobo? You can tweak the voltage using AI tweak. IDK about other boards.

Stock cooler or something else?

Set it to 4.4ghz (a lot of 3570ks hit their wall at 4.5 a lot faster) if you're got a non stock heatsink. Just go down by .01 notches, test in prime95 after each notch for a few sets. Monitor voltage, clock, and vdroop in CPU-Z. Once you hit your voltage wall you'll get a BSOD (some people can't get below 1.2v). From there go up by .005 and run IBT for a bit (stop it if you see over 80c in Realtemp). If it passes that let it run through Prime95 over night (~12 hours). I get temps in the mid-upper 60s in prime95 at 4.4ghz 1.145v with a hr-02 Macho.

After that you'll just go through your normal usage and if it's stable it's stable.
 

cametall

Member
Are you on an Asus mobo? You can tweak the voltage using AI tweak. IDK about other boards.

Stock cooler or something else?

Set it to 4.4ghz (a lot of 3570ks hit their wall at 4.5 a lot faster) if you're got a non stock heatsink. Just go down by .01 notches, test in prime95 after each notch for a few sets. Monitor voltage, clock, and vdroop in CPU-Z. Once you hit your voltage wall you'll get a BSOD (some people can't get below 1.2v). From there go up by .005 and run IBT for a bit (stop it if you see over 80c in Realtemp). If it passes that let it run through Prime95 over night (~12 hours).

After that you'll just go through your normal usage and if it's stable it's stable.

I am on an ASUS P8Z77-V LX with a Corsair H60 closed liquid cooler.

Thank you so much for your help. I've learned a shit ton of nuances (proper cable management, positive/negative airflow, OC'ing) with this new PC.
 

Edgeward

Member
Hmm. How did memtest+ go?




The speed is worth it yeah. It's not a hassle really, you can move all the windows 7 Documents/Pictures/Music libraries to another folder natively so if you move them to the HDD to save space, it'll work seamlessly. Stuff like the steam mover program is easy as well.

Hmm, so I can just move my username folder wholesale and it subsfolders and it will be fine? Okay gonna add a ssd then.

Thanks
 

abunai

Member
Hmm, so I can just move my username folder wholesale and it subsfolders and it will know it's new default location? Okay gonna add a ssd then.

Thanks

Yeah, go to the user folder and right click the folder you want to move (eg My Pictures) > Properties > Click the Location tab > change.
 

mkenyon

Banned
Bleh, after two days my Logitech G700 mouse died. Gotta send it back for a replacement. I'm having to use my Mac Magicmouse as a stop gap. Yeah, I know.

Question: I seem to be unable to get picture from the HDMI out from my mobo. Using the HDMI from my GTX670 is fine. My mobo is a Gigabyte G1.Sniper 3.

Cheers.
iirc, its one or the other. Can't do both at the same time as you can't tell the OS to use two different GPUs.
Is it worth it to get an 80gb SSD just to boot the OS? And does it even become a hassle with file management redirecting everything to the hdd? I don't actually know if this is even an issue.
80GB is plenty for OS and standard apps. No, it is not a pain.
Seems nice. A bit no frills. No HDD activity lights. No reset button. The fans may or may not be great (and might need to be replaced. No instruction manual, which is weird. Plastic instead of aluminum, etc.

I do like the simple look. I like the space. I like the removable top HD bays. I like the fan controller. I like the filters. It wasn't hard to out together. Easy to cable manage (mine is a bit messy because of the retarded power cables.
The HDD activity light is built in to the power switch. The reset button is the tiny one next to it. No, the fan's aren't great but are better than most stock case fans. No instruction manual was a random chance.
Right now I'm getting temps of 44 C for my CPU. Seems okay, but I expected a lower temp using this heat sink.
Load temps are only what matters, idle can be wildly off depending on what you're using to monitor temps. What's your ambient? Voltage? What processor?
 

MrBig

Member
I am on an ASUS P8Z77-V LX with a Corsair H60 closed liquid cooler.

Thank you so much for your help. I've learned a shit ton of nuances (proper cable management, positive/negative airflow, OC'ing) with this new PC.

No problem. Just remember that the AItweak settings are software only. After you get stable settings enter them into the bios and then reset the settings in AItweak.

iirc, its one or the other. Can't do both at the same time as you can't tell the OS to use two different GPUs.

Nope, you can use both. I have my crossover and TV on my 670, and another monitor on my HD4000. Don't know what the problem is.
 

cametall

Member
No problem. Just remember that the AItweak settings are software only. After you get stable settings enter them into the bios and then reset the settings in AItweak.

I thought AItweak made the changes to BIOS :X

That is part of the system when you enter the BIOS correct (one of the tabs in Advanced)? Not a separate Windows program.
 

MrBig

Member
I thought AItweak made the changes to BIOS :X

That is part of the system when you enter the BIOS correct (one of the tabs in Advanced)? Not a separate Windows program.

oh yeah, AItweak is the section in the bios for overclocking. I was referring to the windows program.
 

cametall

Member
oh yeah, AItweak is the section in the bios for overclocking. I was referring to the windows program.

Should the initial increase to 4.4ghz and decrease in Vcore voltage occur at the OS level to determine stability? What software would be used for that if so?

Or should I just bump my current clock speed to 44 in the BIOS (since it appears 1.3v is MORE than enough to cover that) and change the Vcore voltage via Windows?

EDIT: Is there an AITweak for Windows?
 

MrBig

Member
Should the initial increase to 4.4ghz and decrease in Vcore voltage occur at the OS level to determine stability? What software would be used for that if so?

Or should I just bump my current clock speed to 44 in the BIOS (since it appears 1.3v is MORE than enough to cover that) and change the Vcore voltage via Windows?

EDIT: Is there an AITweak for Windows?

TurboV from the AI software. http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/Intel_Socket_1155/P8Z77V_LX/#download

Utilities, then the one with all the programs listed in it, third from the top. You can also define your fan profiles from it.

set multiplier to 100mhz x 44. Test stability at same voltage. Then drop it as far as you can using TurboV
 
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