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"I need a New PC!" 2012 Thread. 22nm+28nm, Tri-Gate, and reading the OP. [Part 1]

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Sethos

Banned
No the whine is the Noctua pull fan. I can only guess the radiator is restricting airflow or something. Any Noctua fan I put there makes the high pitched whine.

The mobo fan controller has taken care of the whine though by setting the push fan to below 800-900 rpm (750 currently).

I've considered just using a pull set up with the rad and putting the push fan somewhere else in the case, but right now my push/pull set up is giving me really good temps so I have been reluctant to change it up. Push 750rpm/Pull 1000rpm.

Sounds like it isn't receiving enough voltage then if it happens for both fans, like it's being "choked" and starts the whine. Sounds odd in any case.
 

cametall

Member
Sounds like it isn't receiving enough voltage then if it happens for both fans, like it's being "choked" and starts the whine. Sounds odd in any case.

Maybe. It can get up to 1400rpm. I did have a problem where the "quiet 3 pin" connector the Noctuas come with would not power the fan, but I chalked that up to the accessory being bad.
 

mkenyon

Banned
Now I hate my case even more.
That is one of my most favorite scenes from any movie. Maybe I should put a watermark on it.
can't say it looks bad cause it actually looks awesome, but that gun shaped heatsink is the deal breaker :p

:)
I know I know. Waiting for a waterblock to release so I can replace it.
That looks so sexy dude. My god.
Thanks!

I have a weird "issue" with my Noctuas and my H60 radiator (push/pull). Whichever Noctua fan is sandwiched between the case and the rad makes a high pitched whine at 900+ rpm. Tried both fans, same whine.

The fan that pulls can run at 1400 rpm and be dead silent though. Right now I have the push at 750rpm and the pull at 1000rpm, which seems to have lowered temps by a bit.

So annoying.

Edit: I don't even hear the buzzing anymore. It is now soothing background noise...
Fans on either side of the rad need to be at the same RPM or you are going to totally screw with the airflow and how the fan actually works. Noctua fans are especially picky about this because they're engineered to work in such a specific fashion. Keep both fans at the same speed.
 

cametall

Member
Fans on either side of the rad need to be at the same RPM or you are going to totally screw with the airflow and how the fan actually works. Noctua fans are especially picky about this because they're engineered to work in such a specific fashion. Keep both fans at the same speed.

You're an encyclopedia. I'll mess with the RPMs, but the fans will probably end up sitting at 750 - 800 rpm due to that whine.
 

mkenyon

Banned
So if I am to understand, there is only one i5 2500k? They're all the same 3.3GHz processor right? It's a specific model number like my Q6600 right?

So just as an example, what if I went with this: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16883227403

...hooked it up to a TV, and upgraded the GPU next year?

Edit: This would be upgrading from the following specs:

Q6600
3GB RAM
HD6850
Repeat after me, "I am not scared of PCB and I will build it myself!"

That's a $700 computer for almost $1200.
 
Case fans or the Noctua fans?

I have the two R3 120mm case fans blowing in the front. They are both on the R3 fan controller. I then have a Noctua 140mm blowing in from the bottom and a Noctua 120mm as the rear exhaust. After reading some mkenyon sage advice I think I know what my problem is.

First, I forgot to use the included Y cable with my Noctua heatsink so right now the 140mm fan and the 120mm fan are running at different RPMs because one is on CPU FAN1 and the other CPU FAN2. Once they are both at the same RPM it should eliminate some resonance. For my other Noctuas I am going to stop fucking with the fan profile through the ASRock software and just utilize the included voltage droppers.

Fuck me. I now realize I have basically bought the wrong motherboard or the wrong HDDs depending on how you look at it. So my Asrock P77 Extreme 6 only has two Sata 3 ports that support RAID, the other two SATA 3 ports are on the ASMEDIA controller which is apparently shit because they even recommend in the manual not to put boot devices on it. Right now I have my Samsung 128GB SSD on the ASMEDIA port as my OS drive. However, I have two 1TB Caviar Blacks 6/gbs drives in RAID 1 for my primary storage array which are taking up the two "good" SATA 3 ports. SATA 3 HDD on SATA 2 ports should be fine.
 

MrBig

Member
Does any HDD even saturate SATA 2? Why have them take up your S3 ports? At the very least get the SSD on the intel controller.
 
Does any HDD even saturate SATA 2? Why have them take up your S3 ports? At the very least get the SSD on the intel controller.

Yeah I am thinking that will be the case. Switching them to SATA2 shouldn't "waste" the performance of the WD's, especially in RAID 1. I will even run some benchmarks just to confirm. It is more important to get mt SSD on the Intel P77 controller than anything. Crisis adverted.
 

kharma45

Member
Hi Guys

First time I've actually posted in this thread. I've been out of the whole PC building game for a while, and since my previous aged Shuttle PC broke a while ago, I've been trying to get myself up to speed with what's important these days. So I'd appreciate any help that people can offer.

I'm interested in building myself a PC (mainly for recent PC gaming, and smallscale 3D game development), built around a mini ATX PC case, (I'm still a fan of smaller discreet PCs). I'm not too keen on pushing the overclocking too much, expect where gains can be easily made and could later extend the life span of the PC.

This is the build I've got so far, with the help of the great OP. I'll be reusing HD, monitor, OS, etc.

CPU: Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor (£173.94 @ Scan.co.uk)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler (£26.65 @ Scan.co.uk)
Motherboard: Asus P8H77-V LE Micro ATX LGA1155 Motherboard (£71.72 @ Scan.co.uk)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory (£42.96 @ Scan.co.uk)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 580 1.5GB Video Card (£275.50 @ Scan.co.uk)
Case: Fractal Design Core 1000 MicroATX Mini Tower Case (£29.98 @ Scan.co.uk)
Power Supply: OCZ 650W ATX12V Power Supply (£69.18 @ Scan.co.uk)
Total: £689.93

To be honest, the main areas I don't have a good handle on just yet is Motherboard and power supply, and maybe what memory to get. I'm trying to get something that's going be capable to have a good life span with out needing updates, but not too much overkill for what I might need. So if anyone can offer any advice or notice anything that won't be suitable or has a better suggestion, It'll be a great help. Thanks guys.

For the extra £25 or so I'd get a GTX 670 over the 580.
 

gatti-man

Member
installed the m4 ssd today and am having problems. It currently has the 000F firmware and is recognized and identified by the bios with proper size details etc. However win 7 installed it upon boot and the drive is not visible under hard drives. It is visible in the control panel under device manager. It says it is working properly but has no details on size etc just says hard drive and drivers up to date. What do i do?

EDIT its on sata 0 and the port doesnt have conflicts i swapped my old intel ssd in back and forth but the problem with the m4 persists.
 

knitoe

Member
installed the m4 ssd today and am having problems. It currently has the 000F firmware and is recognized and identified by the bios with proper size details etc. However win 7 installed it upon boot and the drive is not visible under hard drives. It is visible in the control panel under device manager. It says it is working properly but has no details on size etc just says hard drive and drivers up to date. What do i do?

EDIT its on sata 0 and the port doesnt have conflicts i swapped my old intel ssd in back and forth but the problem with the m4 persists.

You need to go into Disk Management, set partition and format the drive before you can see / use it.
 

mkenyon

Banned
Yeah I am thinking that will be the case. Switching them to SATA2 shouldn't "waste" the performance of the WD's, especially in RAID 1. I will even run some benchmarks just to confirm. It is more important to get mt SSD on the Intel P77 controller than anything. Crisis adverted.
There is no spinning disk that can read write anywhere near 3GB/S.
installed the m4 ssd today and am having problems. It currently has the 000F firmware and is recognized and identified by the bios with proper size details etc. However win 7 installed it upon boot and the drive is not visible under hard drives. It is visible in the control panel under device manager. It says it is working properly but has no details on size etc just says hard drive and drivers up to date. What do i do?

EDIT its on sata 0 and the port doesnt have conflicts i swapped my old intel ssd in back and forth but the problem with the m4 persists.
Add it through disk management. Its like.. control panel -> administrative tools -> computer management -> Storage -> Disk Management

Right click and add as a new partition.
 

CatPee

Member
So if I am to understand, there is only one i5 2500k? They're all the same 3.3GHz processor right? It's a specific model number like my Q6600 right?

So just as an example, what if I went with this: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16883227403

...hooked it up to a TV, and upgraded the GPU next year?

Edit: This would be upgrading from the following specs:

Q6600
3GB RAM
HD6850

That's an $800 build (and wouldn't be a huge upgrade over your current one either). At $1200, you could build pretty much the same rig but with a massively superior 670.

If you really want the 360 that badly though, it's a somewhat decent buy, I guess.
 

gatti-man

Member
There is no spinning disk that can read write anywhere near 3GB/S.

Add it through disk management. Its like.. control panel -> administrative tools -> computer management -> Storage -> Disk Management

Right click and add as a new partition.

thanks I dont know why i didnt remember that from last time!

ok next question I want to mirror my old SSD to the new SSD any free programs that do that?
 
Thanks for talking me off the edge. My first reaction was, "The HDD says 6gbps so it must need that interface!"

On the good side, this just came in :)
photo2cyg5.jpg
 
Repeat after me, "I am not scared of PCB and I will build it myself!"

That's a $700 computer for almost $1200.

Seconded. This stuff may have been scary in the pre-internet era but now with tons of youtube walkthroughs, digital manuals, FAQs, message boards etc, it really isn't scary at all. And it only take a few hours. By building it himself it's like getting paid $250 an hour for the labor he puts into it. Plus the pride of crafstmanship of selecting the parts and putting it together.


And I can speak from personal experience. Two years ago I decided to get a new PC after I hadn't had a desktop for a decade (I literally still had a working Duron with a Voodoo 4 in it). I was a little reluctant since I was out of the tech game for so long and I found a Dell Alienware on big discount (this was a month before Ivy Bridge came out). Even though I got an amazing deal (for Alienware anyway) that ended up being about $700 off, it still wasn't as good as what I could have done on my own. And I got none of the self satisfaction from building it myself (I did get a pretty damn cool case, though).

A year later I put together a cheap media PC build for $500. I love that thing. I actually like it more than my Alienware even though it's cheaper and a little less powerful. People shouldn't underestimate the power sense of accomplishment of DYI. And it only takes a Saturday afternoon.
 
Is there a reason why KoFXIII doesn't work on my new pc? I have the game on 360 but wanted to try and see how it looks on my new pc at 1080p

When I try to start it it gives me i/o please restart system screen, when I try to load it via loader.bat it says game.exe crashed...

Funny thing is I downloaded the game on my old laptop just to see if its the same there...but nope it starts without a problem
 
My Samsung 830 128GB SDD from yesterday's deal is already in, so today begins my OS installation phase. :D Hopefully it will go as smooth as the hardware phase.
 

RedSwirl

Junior Member
That's an $800 build (and wouldn't be a huge upgrade over your current one either). At $1200, you could build pretty much the same rig but with a massively superior 670.

If you really want the 360 that badly though, it's a somewhat decent buy, I guess.

I just don't have the time to learn my way around a motherboard right now. My current system cost me over $2000 back in 2007, and I think the prices I'm seeing now are a huge improvement in comparison.

Right now I'm mainly just looking to upgrade my CPU and RAM, and no one has told me that I'll need more than an i5 and 8GB worth in the coming years. GPU-wise I don't wanna go too far now because I'm waiting one more GPU generation before I really go for it (I'm imagining a hypothetical 8850 or something). I definitely don't wanna spend $500 on a GPU. The $200 range is probably where I wanna stay on that end.
 

mkenyon

Banned
Right now I'm mainly just looking to upgrade my CPU and RAM, and no one has told me that I'll need more than an i5 and 8GB worth in the coming years. GPU-wise I don't wanna go too far now because I'm waiting one more GPU generation before I really go for it (I'm imagining a hypothetical 8850 or something). I definitely don't wanna spend $500 on a GPU. The $200 range is probably where I wanna stay on that end.
It's because no one really knows. 2600K might be a killer deal if all new games that come out are n-threaded. It's all speculation unless we have some industry insider here.
 
It depends on what the new consoles do, but I'd be surprised if they are anything higher than what current i5s can do. Processors that cost more than $200 in consoles isn't very feasible, even if it is still a year out. Isn't the rumor that both Sony and MS are going with more cost effective AMD processors, anyway?

As for "learning your way around a motherboard" we aren't talking about something that takes a computer engineering degree. You need a screwdriver, a youtube video and an hour and half. If you are financially well off that you don't want to fool with it that is one thing. But you are basically costing your self $200-$300 for what amounts to a couple hours, at most, of very easy assembly. Most parts on modern PCs are keyed and only slot in one way. You do have to read manuals/consult videoes etc. But the difficult level is about the equivalent of putting Legos together. You are literally just snapping pieces in place.
 

mkenyon

Banned
It depends on what the new consoles do, but I'd be surprised if they are anything higher than what current i5s can do. Processors that cost more than $200 in consoles isn't very feasible, even if it is still a year out. Isn't the rumor that both Sony and MS are going with more cost effective AMD processors, anyway?

As for "learning your way around a motherboard" we aren't talking about something that takes a computer engineering degree. You need a screwdriver, a youtube video and an hour and half. If you are financially well off that you don't want to fool with it that is one thing. But you are basically costing your self $200-$300 for what amounts to a couple hours, at most, of very easy assembly. Most parts on modern PCs are keyed and only slot in one way. You do have to read manuals/consult videoes etc. But the difficult level is about the equivalent of putting Legos together. You are literally just snapping pieces in place.
Agreed totally here, except that the move to n-threaded coding isn't dependent upon the price of the processor. If they want to use quad or octo-core AMD procs, then they will still want to code to be able to take advantage of all of that. Otherwise they'll be SOL.

That's why the i5 is so good right now. It DESTROYS single/dual threaded applications just as well as $1000 processors. If they can start using 8 threads? Maybe not as much.
 

Ceebs

Member
Did some fan rearranging and dropped my idle temps down to about 24C and load temps running Prime 95 for about an hour down to around 50C.

I really need to take the time to OC this 3570K past my current 4.2GHZ OC, but I just have not felt like fooling with it.
 
Hey, I am a Gaming PC newbie after getting one in January and want a better Graphics Card already.

I have a 6770 and a AMD FX 4100 but is the CPU as bad as people say? Would getting say a 7970 even be that much of a improvement with that CPU?
 

CatPee

Member
Hey, I am a Gaming PC newbie after getting one in January and want a better Graphics Card already.

I have a 6770 and a AMD FX 4100 but is the CPU as bad as people say? Would getting say a 7970 even be that much of a improvement with that CPU?

It's still a great leap, but yea, that processor is crap.

I'd recommend a 670 though. It pretty much destroys every other card price-to-performance-wise in its category.

Gonna get my cheap 670 (thanks g35twinturbo!) in the next couple of days. My excitement can hardly contain itself. Also gonna be reselling my 570 for ~100% of what I paid for it too. Feels good man.
 
It's still a great leap, but yea, that processor is crap.

I'd recommend a 670 though. It pretty much destroys every other card price-to-performance-wise in its category.

Gonna get my cheap 670 (thanks g35twinturbo!) in the next couple of days. My excitement can hardly contain itself. Also gonna be reselling my 570 for ~100% of what I paid for it too. Feels good man.

Thanks. Would it be better to get a 670 and keep the CPU or get a new CPU and motherboard.
 

Shambles

Member
If people are scared of putting it together yourself we could start google+ hangouts every so often on weekends. If you're building a PC you can hook up a laptop into the group video chat and have live support and instruction. After the hardware is together you can connect with your desktop so that you can share your screen for help setting up any of the software on the machine or tweaking things.
 
If people are scared of putting it together yourself we could start google+ hangouts every so often on weekends. If you're building a PC you can hook up a laptop into the group video chat and have live support and instruction. After the hardware is together you can connect with your desktop so that you can share your screen for help setting up any of the software on the machine or tweaking things.

Great idea. +1
 

RedSwirl

Junior Member
My other reason is because depending on what happens, it might not even be my money that's getting this PC. At least not right now. Situation is complicated.
 

CatPee

Member
Thanks. Would it be better to get a 670 and keep the CPU or get a new CPU and motherboard.

Hard to say. I believe the 4100 would do okay for gaming. It might hold back the 670 in some games though. What's for certain is that you'll have to upgrade from that 4100 eventually. Definitely try and upgrade both CPU and GPU.

I'm no super expert though, so maybe someone with more experience with 4100s can help you further.
 
Hard to say. I believe the 4100 would do okay for gaming. It might hold back the 670 in some games though. What's for certain is that you'll have to upgrade from that 4100 eventually. Definitely try and upgrade both CPU and GPU.

I'm no super expert though, so maybe someone with more experience with 4100s can help you further.

Okay cheers :)
 

Kronic

Neo Member
Hey GAF, followed this thread for a few weeks now and am coming close to pulling the trigger on my own build with just a couple of questions...

Case wise: Think I am between the Switch 810 and a CM Storm Stryker. I'm torn so any input from people who have owned either is welcome (Trooper owners particularly since Stryker isn't out yet). Also, considering a Bitfenix Shinobi XL, just can't seem to find enough reviews to jump on it. For reference, will only be air cooling, but haven't seen a mid tower as visually appealing as any of these.

CPU: On the fence between 3770k or 3550k. Will only be using it for gaming, but I would like to future proof it as much as possible (moving up from my four year old q6600). I know games now don't make much use of the extra benefits, mainly wondering about the possibility of near-future releases (Arma 3/ RTS games that are known to be more cpu intensive). Plan to use it with a single 670 and second a year or two down the road so don't want to worry about any bottlenecks.

Also planning to jump on a Korean IPS panel so also I welcome any recommendations on a vendor/seller to buy from. Thanks!
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
How much should I worry if I currently have all my case fans running at 100%?
They are meant to run at 100%.
Hard to say. I believe the 4100 would do okay for gaming. It might hold back the 670 in some games though. What's for certain is that you'll have to upgrade from that 4100 eventually. Definitely try and upgrade both CPU and GPU.

I'm no super expert though, so maybe someone with more experience with 4100s can help you further.
4100 is 4 'core' Bulldozer chip. If you can OC it a lot it can be ok. I wouldn't pair it with anything faster than a 670 though. You will see a very large boost, although some CPU intensive games (RTS, GTA IV, etc) you'll see smaller improvement.

Post your budget, specs, and what games you want to run at what settings/FPS
Hey GAF, followed this thread for a few weeks now and am coming close to pulling the trigger on my own build with just a couple of questions...

Case wise: Think I am between the Switch 810 and a CM Storm Stryker. I'm torn so any input from people who have owned either is welcome (Trooper owners particularly since Stryker isn't out yet). Also, considering a Bitfenix Shinobi XL, just can't seem to find enough reviews to jump on it. For reference, will only be air cooling, but haven't seen a mid tower as visually appealing as any of these.

CPU: On the fence between 3770k or 3550k. Will only be using it for gaming, but I would like to future proof it as much as possible (moving up from my four year old q6600). I know games now don't make much use of the extra benefits, mainly wondering about the possibility of near-future releases (Arma 3/ RTS games that are known to be more cpu intensive). Plan to use it with a single 670 and second a year or two down the road so don't want to worry about any bottlenecks.

Also planning to jump on a Korean IPS panel so also I welcome any recommendations on a vendor/seller to buy from. Thanks!
Shinobi XL looks solid to me. mkenyon posts some pics of his a page or so back.

I can't imagine HT being a major issue soon. It's not like having double the cores from a E8400 vs a Q6600. Just for gaming I'd imagine a 4Ghz IB/SB CPU being totally fine for a good long while. If something comes along that needs HT, just sell your old CPU and buy the 3770K isntead.

Korean IPS I've heard good things about the Crossover. Buy from accessorieswhole
http://www.ebay.com/sch/Monitors-Pr...1&_from=&_nkw=&_armrs=1&_ssn=accessorieswhole
 

Ceebs

Member
Korean IPS I've heard good things about the Crossover. Buy from accessorieswhole
http://www.ebay.com/sch/Monitors-Pr...1&_from=&_nkw=&_armrs=1&_ssn=accessorieswhole

I can vouch for this seller. The monitor is flawless and actually got here faster than the parts I ordered from Newegg at the same time.

You will never want to go back to a lower resolution ever though. It totally spoils you. Also the brightness out of the box can be blinding if you have been using an older monitor for a while. I had to drop mine way down and slowly raise it back up over the course of a few days to match the calibration settings I am using. It gave me a headache the first day I got it.
 
Thanks. Would it be better to get a 670 and keep the CPU or get a new CPU and motherboard.

I'd would say you are better getting an i5 and a cheap motherboard. The 6770 is not great BUT it can run games on medium settings just fine. I have a friend that has one and he does ok. YOu can always upgrade it later. A 670 is pretty big overkill in your situation in my opinion, especially if you are on a budget. Keep in mind for the price of a 670 you could easily get an i5 and a better motherboard and still even have money left over for a better graphics card. Especially if you live close to a Microcenter. They have great deals on i5s right now.

A reasonable $130-$200 graphics card will do you fine, especially if you don't need to max out every settting in every game. That's really the price to value sweet spot. But in the meantime the 6770 will run stuff, you just need a better processor. I'd recommend looking at a Radeon 6870 or a Geforce 460. You can frequently find them for rebates around $140-$160.

For example, the cheapest 670 is around $400. For less than that:

i5 2400 $120
Asrock Motherboard $50
Radeon 6860 $159 (after $10 rebate)

Total: $330

If you want to spend a bit more, bumping that up to a faster i5 occurs in $10 increments. But that would be a significantly way more powerful system than what you currently have for less than the cost of a 670 by itself.
 

Kronic

Neo Member
I can vouch for this seller. The monitor is flawless and actually got here faster than the parts I ordered from Newegg at the same time.

You will never want to go back to a lower resolution ever though. It totally spoils you. Also the brightness out of the box can be blinding if you have been using an older monitor for a while. I had to drop mine way down and slowly raise it back up over the course of a few days to match the calibration settings I am using. It gave me a headache the first day I got it.

Did you get a"perfect pixel" version or the regular? I'd hate to have to send a monitor all the way back if it comes with stuck/ dead pixels but I also hear the resolution is so high it's really hard to notice them if there is a single one at all. Had a budget LG monitor that had a green stuck pixel in the center that annoyed the crap out of me though it was only 1600 x 900 res.
 
I'd would say you are better getting an i5 and a cheap motherboard.

The 6770 is not great BUT it can run games on medium settings just fine. I have a friend that has one and he does ok. YOu can always upgrade it later.

A 670 is pretty big overkill in my opinion, especially if you are on a budget. Keep in mind for the price of a 670 you could easily get an i5 and a better motherboard and still even have money left over for a better graphics card. Especially if you live close to a Microcenter. They have great deals on i5s right now.

A reasonable $130-$200 graphics card will do you fine, especially if you don't need to max out every settting in every game. But in the meantime the 6770 will run stuff, you just need a better processor.

I'd recommend looking at a Radeon 6870 or a Geforce 460. You can frequently find them for rebates around $140-$160.

Okay. I'm from the UK though :p I have £1000 budget on a new phone and this. I'm getting a Galaxy Note for about £400 so leaves £600 so I might be able to get both haha. Cheers!
 
Okay. I'm from the UK though :p I have £1000 budget on a new phone and this. I'm getting a Galaxy Note for about £400 so leaves £600 so I might be able to get both haha. Cheers!

Yeah, then I would say look for whatever i5 you can afford. On a budget, I wouldn't worry about getting a "k" line processor or a motherboard that supports overclocking.

However, the currency translator I just looked at is correct, that's about $900 U.S. dollars. You could easily get a nice i5, a motherboard, and a good graphics card for under that.

Since it seems you have a bit more to spend, I'd suggest the i5 2500k as the best value in processors right now. Just make sure you get a motherboard that supports overclocking it (manufacturer is less important; it just needs to be a a p68, z67 or z77 model as listed in the OP). Alternatively, the i5 2400 is still a very strong processor for significantly less.

Couple either with a 6870 or even one tier higher and you have a very powerful system.
 
Seiously, if I can build a PC anyone can. I've finally got it set up to where I want it (4ghz oc) and I've been testing some games.

I was running Alan Wake at 30fps (with dips) on roughly middlish settings on my top of the range $2600 iMac. Now I'm running it at 70-80fps with absolutely everything at max...This is amazing.

The 670 is a beast :)
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
So I have 7 of the one on the left, and 2 of the other one. Why are there two different kinds and where do I put the two odd ones out?
ibor1gZGQnxhJd.jpg
Just mount using the 7 left ones.
Are the bottom mobo mounts on a lower level or something?
Okay. I'm from the UK though :p I have £1000 budget on a new phone and this. I'm getting a Galaxy Note for about £400 so leaves £600 so I might be able to get both haha. Cheers!
That's plenty for a well rounded upgrade.

2500K (£180) + a £120 mobo + dual fan cooler 670 (£330) = £630
 

mkenyon

Banned
Okay. I'm from the UK though :p I have £1000 budget on a new phone and this. I'm getting a Galaxy Note for about £400 so leaves £600 so I might be able to get both haha. Cheers!
First of all, you made the right choice on phone. If you look back a page you will see pictures of my ridiculous recent build. I like my Galaxy Note more than it. Best electronic device ever. Also get Star Traders RPG, best android game by a longshot.

Second, rather than positing what you might get a better performance gain out of, this article has all of the data you need to make a decision.
Hey GAF, followed this thread for a few weeks now and am coming close to pulling the trigger on my own build with just a couple of questions...

Case wise: Think I am between the Switch 810 and a CM Storm Stryker. I'm torn so any input from people who have owned either is welcome (Trooper owners particularly since Stryker isn't out yet). Also, considering a Bitfenix Shinobi XL, just can't seem to find enough reviews to jump on it. For reference, will only be air cooling, but haven't seen a mid tower as visually appealing as any of these.
First, Here's my buildlog in the Shinobi XL. OC3D.TV on youtube has video reviews of all three cases. My stance on the matter.

CM Stryker - Most full featured, great build quality, but hate the styling.
Switch 810 - Really cool features, questionable QC, lots of cheap plastic, flashy eye appeal.
Shinobi XL - Gorgeous, great build quality, but lighter on the features. Needs some aftermarket fans to really make it shine.
Fuck, that is hot. I feel like it's something that would close the airlocks behind me while I'm out on a spacewalk and apologize that it can't let me back in.
Just for that, I will need to start unplugging it at night.
If people are scared of putting it together yourself we could start google+ hangouts every so often on weekends. If you're building a PC you can hook up a laptop into the group video chat and have live support and instruction. After the hardware is together you can connect with your desktop so that you can share your screen for help setting up any of the software on the machine or tweaking things.
G+ hangout and Skype. I walked Arken through a quad SLI, Rampage IV Extreme build when he hasn't done one in years. Works really really well.
 

Ceebs

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Did you get a"perfect pixel" version or the regular? I'd hate to have to send a monitor all the way back if it comes with stuck/ dead pixels but I also hear the resolution is so high it's really hard to notice them if there is a single one at all. Had a budget LG monitor that had a green stuck pixel in the center that annoyed the crap out of me though it was only 1600 x 900 res.

Just the regular $370ish dollar one.
 
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