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[Thraktor]

That's what I mean by intake facing upwards or downwards. So facing up, the intake will be inside the case and part of the case's overall airflow set-up; positioning-wise it'll effectively be sucking in the air exhausted out of the GPU and dumping it out the back (maybe?). Facing down, the intake will be 'outside' the case so to speak and its airflow will have no bearing on the case itself. Since these two options seemso wildly different, I was mainly wondering if there's a proven best option (or rather, really crappy option).

My gut feeling is that any help in dumping the GPU exhaust heat is a Good Thing. But that's not an assumption I'm comfortable making!

I think his point is that the fans on the GPU are the intake, and air is blown out the back. You want to get cool air to the fans on the GPU, rather than getting warm air away from them.

 

[Petrie]

Because, Coretemp is only telling you the rated CPU speed while CPUID actually tells you what the CPU is currently running at.

Simple enough. Thank you!

 

[Ceebs]

That's what I mean by intake facing upwards or downwards. So facing up, the intake will be inside the case and part of the case's overall airflow set-up; positioning-wise it'll effectively be sucking in the air exhausted out of the GPU and dumping it out the back (maybe?). Facing down, the intake will be 'outside' the case so to speak and its airflow will have no bearing on the case itself. Since these two options seemso wildly different, I was mainly wondering if there's a proven best option (or rather, really crappy option).

My gut feeling is that any help in dumping the GPU exhaust heat is a Good Thing. But that's not an assumption I'm comfortable making!

Without a dust filter using it as intake pulling air into the case is a good way to load up the PSU with dust. I keep mine with the fan facing up.

 

[cackhyena]

It'll be in there somewhere. It will have some chart or paragraph on recommended memory configuration near the compatibility list. It will want one stick in A1 and one in A2 or B1 and B2.

Oops, yep thanks. Okay installed. CPU and memory are in. I should wait on the heatsink before checking if it's all working properly, right?

 

[Ocho]

Just two as intake? No exhaust? Even then though, since the 670 is a reference cooler, I wouldn't think it's that bad. Might be worth contacting EVGA support, unless your ambient temperatures are insane.

No, of course not. I have one back exhaust and two top exhaust fans. I'll see what I can do to get them lower, else I'll contact EVGA.

 

[Noaloha]

I think his point is that the fans on the GPU are the intake, and air is blown out the back. You want to get cool air to the fans on the GPU, rather than getting warm air away from them.

Oh shit! Ha, I completely misinterpreted that, yeah. Okay, that helps with the orientation decision (and with my general understanding of important things like how a bloody graphics card works!). Thanks all.

EDIT: I actually have a couple of 120mm dust filter mounts that I grabbed because they were cheap. I'll take that into consideration.

Overall, the message I'm getting is that it doesn't reeeeally matter all that much and lies largely in the realm of personal preference.

 

[mkenyon]

No, of course not. I have one back exhaust and two top exhaust fans. I'll see what I can do to get them lower, else I'll contact EVGA.

Yeah, with that kind of airflow along with the standard fan profile on Kepler, it shouldn't be anywhere near that. Something seems very wrong.

Oh shit! Ha, I completely misinterpreted that, yeah. Okay, that helps with the orientation decision (and with my general understanding of important things like how a bloody graphics card works!). Thanks all.

EDIT: I actually have a couple of 120mm dust filter mounts that I grabbed because they were cheap. I'll take that into consideration.

Overall, the message I'm getting is that it doesn't reeeeally matter all that much and lies largely in the realm of personal preference.

I actually meant what I said, I think I misread your post. Apologies!

In general, people prefer to keep the fan facing down. Since cases are skewed towards exaust anyway, this increases the amount of negative pressure (bad thing) in a case. If possible, always have more intake than exhaust (positive pressure).

In the end though, you probably won't notice a lick of difference.

 

[cackhyena]

Oops, yep thanks. Okay installed. CPU and memory are in. I should wait on the heatsink before checking if it's all working properly, right?

In case someone missed it. I watched the newegg vid, but I wasn't sure which way to go. i think he does the thermal paste and heatsink before booting it up. I dunno.

 

[mkenyon]

Yeah, your heatsink needs to be on before you boot.

 

[Noaloha]

I actually meant what I said, I think I misread your post. Apologies!

No worries. It all worked out for the best in the end because now I've inadvertently been corrected on my peculiar, why-have-I-not-ever-questioned-this-with-myself? assumption that GPU fans function as an exhaust.

 

[cackhyena]

Yeah, your heatsink needs to be on before you boot.

Thanks.

 

[BigBlackGamer]

gonna have some fun tonight!

 

[mkenyon]

Signature series eh?

Dat poster and t-shirt.

Grats though man, you're going to love it. I had buyer's guilt for like two weeks after. After that went away, I was just in love.

 

[Smokey]

I would like a 2560x1600 120hz monitor

Why are these not available yet? ugh

 

[Monarch]

Quick question guys, this morning I decided to dust off my cpu cooler ( fans and radiator).
Ma question is, do I need to clean off also the old thermal paste and apply a new one ? Because after my cleaning was finished I just put it back with the old thermal paste and I heard that it'd cause some air traps or whatever, preventing the base of the cooler to transmit heat as it should.

 

[Ceebs]

I would like a 2560x1600 120hz monitor

Why are these not available yet? ugh

Can you imagine what they would charge for those considering the premium on 120hz and how crazy expensive 2560X1600 monitors are in general already?

 

[Smokey]

Can you imagine what they would charge for those considering the premium on 120hz and how crazy expensive 2560X1600 monitors are in general already?

Yes but it would be worth it. I love the size and resolution of my U3011. I love the smoothness of 120hz. After using the U3011 for a while now it is very hard for me to go back to 1080p or a smaller screen. I'm sure I'm not the ony one.

The best of both worlds should be available by now and they aren't :/

 

[Black_Stride]

I would like a 2560x1600 120hz monitor

Why are these not available yet? ugh

After HDMI 1.x increases the bandwidth available or if DisplayPort becomes more popular.

 

[mxgt]

Yes but it would be worth it. I love the size and resolution of my U3011. I love the smoothness of 120hz. After using the U3011 for a while now it is very hard for me to go back to 1080p or a smaller screen. I'm sure I'm not the ony one.

The best of both worlds should be available by now and they aren't :/

You're not alone.

I just use both, I switch to my 120hz for shooters and racing games and use my 1440p for basically everything else

 

[Noaloha]

Quick question guys, this morning I decided to dust off my cpu cooler ( fans and radiator).
Ma question is, do I need to clean off also the old thermal paste and apply a new one ? Because after my cleaning was finished I just put it back with the old thermal paste and I heard that it'd cause some air traps or whatever, preventing the base of the cooler to transmit heat as it should.

I'm super-beginner at this stuff, learning new things on a daily basis as prep, but I think I'm correct in advising, in all-caps no less, to REAPPLY.

 

[Zaraki_Kenpachi]

The plastic trays are really well designed. They also allow you to use only as many as you need, getting the rest out of the way of airflow.

Specific docks for SSDs is a gimmick. You Can put them anywhere on your case, such as the bottom of the optical bay or behind the motherboard tray, with double sided tape.

It will. SLI profiles can cause headaches if you're unhappy about having to teat different settings for a new game that doesn't have any yet. Tribes: Ascend, for example, just got SLI profiles in the last beta drivers. Had to create my own custom profile for it that I was using since November.

Dual cards will always have an edge over single cards at really high resolutions. Its the thing that SLI and Crossfire is tailored for. If your PSU can handle it, and you don't mind fiddling with settings in the NVIDIA control panel, a second 570 would be your best best.

It has some limited overclocking features that would likely lead to higher volts rrequired. That means reduced top end and increased temps throughout the range.

*edit
Please excuse typos. Nexus 7 certainly can't replace my keyboard. Just too damn nice out to be inside this morning.

I don't really consider it a gimmick, it's definitely nicer in my opinion. It looks tacky as shit using double sided tape, no reason to not have an extra bay with how small they are that holds it. It's silly more companies don't have slots for them.

Quick question guys, this morning I decided to dust off my cpu cooler ( fans and radiator).
Ma question is, do I need to clean off also the old thermal paste and apply a new one ? Because after my cleaning was finished I just put it back with the old thermal paste and I heard that it'd cause some air traps or whatever, preventing the base of the cooler to transmit heat as it should.

If you actually took off the heatsink from on top of the CPU then you MUST reapply. Why did you remove the cooler though? That doesn't make sense unless you have a weird setup?

 

[vocab]

Yeah, with that kind of airflow along with the standard fan profile on Kepler, it shouldn't be anywhere near that. Something seems very wrong.


.

I hit 82C on load on my gtx 670FTW. Seems about standard. GTX 670 has a very non agressive automatic fan profile.

 

[Monarch]

I don't really consider it a gimmick, it's definitely nicer in my opinion. It looks tacky as shit using double sided tape, no reason to not have an extra bay with how small they are that holds it. It's silly more companies don't have slots for them.



If you actually took off the heatsink from on top of the CPU then you MUST reapply. Why did you remove the cooler though? That doesn't make sense unless you have a weird setup?

Because it's easier to clean it when it's completely removed from the CPU, that is all. Thanks for your answer!
Any thermal paste that you'd recommend ?

 

[Zaraki_Kenpachi]

Because it's easier to clean it when it's completely removed from the CPU, that is all. Thanks for your answer!
Any thermal paste that you'd recommend ?

I don't know, I know there's a whole bunch of different kinds and there's reviews online and they have different things in it that supposedly transfer heat better, I still just use artic silver 5 but I know people on gaf said there's better now. How do you clean it? You shouldn't need to remove it, just blow it off good with compressed air.

Edit: Even with overclocking I've never gotten it high enough to need some better thermal paste (if there is better), and I've used arctic silver for ages with no problems.

 

[mkenyon]

Yes but it would be worth it. I love the size and resolution of my U3011. I love the smoothness of 120hz. After using the U3011 for a while now it is very hard for me to go back to 1080p or a smaller screen. I'm sure I'm not the ony one.

The best of both worlds should be available by now and they aren't :/

So this. I'd actually really like something like that Sony head mounted display at a super high resolution with 120hz. Talk about immersive.

I don't really consider it a gimmick, it's definitely nicer in my opinion. It looks tacky as shit using double sided tape, no reason to not have an extra bay with how small they are that holds it. It's silly more companies don't have slots for them.

Orly?



I'm not trying to trash you at all, it's just that people have a big brand association with Antec because of how big of a name they have been in the computer hardware world. Like Corsair and EVGA. The Eleven Hundred is much much better than a lot of their recent offerings, but it still just can't compare with a lot of other cases out there today. Antec's big brand recognition and entrance into big box stores like Best Buy made them complacent.

Any thermal paste that you'd recommend ?

Phobya HeGrease, available from FrozenCPU and Performance PC's. If you need something sooner or from the Egg, most of the Arctic Cooling MX series is good. To remove it, use isopropyl alcohol that is higher than 90%. I personally use Indigo Xtreme Clean, which is amazing stuff, but probably not worth it for most folks. Mostly for people who do a lot of testing and/or remounting/building.

 

[Monarch]

I don't know, I know there's a whole bunch of different kinds and there's reviews online and they have different things in it that supposedly transfer heat better, I still just use artic silver 5 but I know people on gaf said there's better now. How do you clean it? You shouldn't need to remove it, just blow it off good with compressed air.

Edit: Even with overclocking I've never gotten it high enough to need some better thermal paste (if there is better), and I've used arctic silver for ages with no problems.

This I don't have it, and because I didn't want the dust to find another warm place in my case

 

[Future PhaZe]

Rate the build?

Final specs
Processor Intel Core i5-3570k $229.99
Motherboard ASUS P8Z77-V LK 139.99
Graphics card Gigabyte 680 $450.00
Memory 16GB Corsair Vengeance CMZ16GX3M4A 1600mhz, DDR 3 $109.99
Boot drive OCZ VTX3-25SAT3-60G SSD – 60 GB, SIII,6GPS $72.97
Storage drive WD Caviar Blue 500GB 7200RPM HDD $49.99
Power supply Antec Basiq BP550Plus -550 Watt $59.99
Case Ultra Defender Gaming Mid-Tower Case $49.99
Optical drive Asus 24x DVD-RW $16.99


Rate the build. Goal is to run BF3 and its coming expansion + Crysis 3 at high settings, 1080 P, perferably 30fps +

Total cost: 1180 bux

The goal is simple, can I run BF3 + upcoming expansion and Crysis 3 on maxed out at 45+ fps (preferred 60fps...laugh if not feasible, clearly a PC noob, etc) @ 1080p

 

[vocab]

The goal is simple, can I run BF3 + upcoming expansion and Crysis 3 on maxed out at 45+ fps (preferred 60fps...laugh if not feasible, clearly a PC noob, etc) @ 1080p

My lesser computer blows through BF3 on ultra easily. Your parts laugh at both of those games.

 

[Zaraki_Kenpachi]

This I don't have it, and because I didn't want the dust to find another warm place in my case

It won't find another place if you blow it out good, you just blow out the whole case at once. If you don't have any way to get compressed air it makes sense then. The over priced cans are absurd.

So this. I'd actually really like something like that Sony head mounted display at a super high resolution with 120hz. Talk about immersive.

Orly?



I'm not trying to trash you at all, it's just that people have a big brand association with Antec because of how big of a name they have been in the computer hardware world. Like Corsair and EVGA. The Eleven Hundred is much much better than a lot of their recent offerings, but it still just can't compare with a lot of other cases out there today. Antec's big brand recognition and entrance into big box stores like Best Buy made them complacent.

Phobya HeGrease, available from FrozenCPU and Performance PC's. If you need something sooner or from the Egg, most of the Arctic Cooling MX series is good. To remove it, use isopropyl alcohol that is higher than 90%. I personally use Indigo Xtreme Clean, which is amazing stuff, but probably not worth it for most folks. Mostly for people who do a lot of testing and/or remounting/building.

Eh, I just don't like it. Plus my case is older and has more slots/holes for screws and it's not a clean flat surface like in your case. All I'm saying is, they have bays for everything else, and ssds are so small and you need only 1, maybe 2 bays absolutely tops so it seems odd that all the years ssd has been around that no one makes a little locking slot for them. Just seems silly. What do you like better about other specific cases? I don't think you answered on the last page and they all seem pretty damn similar with very minor if any differences. I've never owned antec so I have no personal attachment to them.

 

[dave_m123]

Well guys just bought and fitted the following:

2GB EVGA GTX 670 FTW
Corsair 8GB 2x4GB CMZ8GX3M2A1600C9B
Intel Core i5 3570K s1155
MSI Z77A-G45 Z77 Ivy Bridge

All working along with a 24 inch new led iiyama monitor. its awesome

 

[cametall]

I've seen a few cases (my Antec has one) have bottom mounts for a single SSD.

I ended up buying some Icy Dock SSD bracket any ways. The bottom mount made it difficult to get the cables in.

I liked my case when I got it but as I add or adjust parts I'm disliking it a little more... also one of the mesh panels in the front rattles some times >.<

 

[Thraktor]

Rate the build?

Final specs
Processor Intel Core i5-3570k $229.99
Motherboard ASUS P8Z77-V LK 139.99
Graphics card Gigabyte 680 $450.00
Memory 16GB Corsair Vengeance CMZ16GX3M4A 1600mhz, DDR 3 $109.99
Boot drive OCZ VTX3-25SAT3-60G SSD – 60 GB, SIII,6GPS $72.97
Storage drive WD Caviar Blue 500GB 7200RPM HDD $49.99
Power supply Antec Basiq BP550Plus -550 Watt $59.99
Case Ultra Defender Gaming Mid-Tower Case $49.99
Optical drive Asus 24x DVD-RW $16.99


Rate the build. Goal is to run BF3 and its coming expansion + Crysis 3 at high settings, 1080 P, perferably 30fps +

Total cost: 1180 bux

The goal is simple, can I run BF3 + upcoming expansion and Crysis 3 on maxed out at 45+ fps (preferred 60fps...laugh if not feasible, clearly a PC noob, etc) @ 1080p

You should be able to get 60fps on BF3 at max settings no problem. Can't say for certain about Crysis 3 as it's not out yet, but I'd be very surprised if you weren't able to max that out as well. One piece of advice would be to drop down to 8GB of RAM (16GB is overkill for gaming) and spend the money on a decent heatsink for your CPU instead.

 

[cackhyena]

So I have the essentials hooked up to my p8z77 mobo. Flipped the psu on and have the green light on the mobo, but I'm not sure how to get it going?

 

[vocab]

So I have the essentials hooked up to my p8z77 mobo. Flipped the psu on and have the green light on the mobo, but I'm not sure how to get it going?

Hit the power button?

 

[cackhyena]

Hit the power button?

It's stand alone on a box atm. Testing if everything is okay before putting it in the case.

 

[vocab]

Take a paper clip. Put one end in the green wire pin, another in a black wire pin. Flip the switch. It should jump start the PSU. If it doesn't work, your psu is most likely doa.

 

[Sethos]

Random input, I'm so glad I 'downgraded' to the 600T White, what an awesome case. Love the design, the color combination, how the top fans for the H100 are hidden away, the temps and the easy fan control setup. Best case I've had to date.

Only negative is the plexiglass window, scratches up SUPER easy. I had it lying on the floor whilst building back then and it got super scratched, tried to wipe it off and I scratched it even further. Looks like a cheese grader now. Luckily I was planning to use the mesh.

 

[cackhyena]

Take a paper clip. Put one end in the green wire pin, another in a black wire pin. It should jump start the PSU. If it doesn't work, your psu is most likely doa.

I don't see any green or black wire pins, though.

 

[mkenyon]

Eh, I just don't like it. Plus my case is older and has more slots/holes for screws and it's not a clean flat surface like in your case. All I'm saying is, they have bays for everything else, and ssds are so small and you need only 1, maybe 2 bays absolutely tops so it seems odd that all the years ssd has been around that no one makes a little locking slot for them. Just seems silly. What do you like better about other specific cases? I don't think you answered on the last page and they all seem pretty damn similar with very minor if any differences. I've never owned antec so I have no personal attachment to them.

Apologies on not getting back to you on specifics. If you don't like the look of it, you can even mount the SSD behind your motherboard tray. This keeps it entirely out of view.

If we're just talking about the two big boys, 690II and Arc Midi, the following:
1) Modular drive bays. Having a big hunk of metal entirely block the front intake is bad design, despite being standard for a number of years.
2) Eleven Hundred is designed around negative pressure for cooling. This means worse temps and very dirty case. There's not a single intake fan. You'll need to buy an additional 2 120mm fans to get it only slightly negative. Not to mention the included fans aren't great.
3) I really dislike windows that have fan cutouts on them. Totally subjective though.
4) No 240mm radiator support. H100 is really popular, and open loop watercooling kits are becoming more and more popular. Big oversight here.
5) Build quality. When you go to big LANs often, you see Antec cases that are just totally falling apart. If you leave it in one spot and never really touch it outside of the random upgrade, this isn't a huge concern. The Eleven Hundred has that same cheap feel.
6) In comparison, bad dust filters.
7) When I did a build in it (friend who just really really wanted an Antec case - brand recognition), the front panel wires aren't even long enough to route properly.
8) No rubber grommets on the top routing holes above the motherboard.

I'm probably too picky, but #1, #2, and #5 would be enough to dissuade me from buying it or recommending it. There's just no reason to buy one when there are so many other great choices out there for the same price or less.

Random input, I'm so glad I 'downgraded' to the 600T White, what an awesome case. Love the design, the color combination, how the top fans for the H100 are hidden away, the temps and the easy fan control setup. Best case I've had to date.

Only negative is the plexiglass window, scratches up SUPER easy. I had it lying on the floor whilst building back then and it got super scratched, tried to wipe it off and I scratched it even further. Looks like a cheese grader now. Luckily I was planning to use the mesh.

Glad it's working out for you! Not sure if I shared my protips for the case or not, but:
1) If you clip off the plastic on the top and front pop out panels, it greatly reduces noise.
2) 200mm fan on the front can be replaced by the Spectre Pro 200mm. The stock fan is pretty loud and doesn't push quite enough air. I have a few extra from my 600T if you need any.
3) You can move the front drive tray to right next to the PSU, which gets it almost entirely out of the way of the front intake, helping to cool down your videocards.

 

[Bombadil]

gonna have some fun tonight!

Damn. What was your last graphics card?

 

[vocab]

I don't see any green or black wire pins, though.

This is what I meant. The PSU only has 1 green wire.

 

[cackhyena]

This is what I meant. The PSU only has 1 green wire.

sorry, man. I'm dumb at this. I already have the plugged in. You're saying take it out and put ends of a clip where the green and one of the black would go? The neweg vid had the guy plug that one in and then short two pins on the other end of the board. This board is similar to that one but when I tried that...nothing.

 

[vocab]

sorry, man. I'm dumb at this. I already have the plugged in. You're saying take it out and put ends of a clip where the green and one of the black would go? The neweg vid had the guy plug that one in and then short two pins on the other end of the board. This board is similar to that one but when I tried that...nothing.

I have no idea how to test a PSU if its plugged into a mobo without the power switch. My recommendation was just remove the 20/24pin from your mobo and just do the paperclip trick to test if the PSU, case fans, etc worked. The vid you are talking about probably shorted the power switch in a similar fashion I am suggesting.

 

[cackhyena]

Kept it plugged in and tried the short again. It's on and the fans heat sink fan is going. Nothing on screen though. Red light near my memory sticks. Any ideas?

 

[vocab]

Kept it plugged in and tried the short again. It's on and the fans heat sink fan is going. Nothing on screen though. Red light near my memory sticks. Any ideas?

Are they actually in all the way? Try with one stick.

 

[cackhyena]

They have to be. I've applied a decent amount of pressure. Right next to the light is says dram led.

 

[mkenyon]

Did they click in? The little tabs on either end of it should click in to a little recess. The force required for seating RAM is probably greater than any other part on a build.

 

[cackhyena]

Did they click in? The little tabs on either end of it should click in to a little recess. The force required for seating RAM is probably greater than any other part on a build.

They didn't! I just figured these were bigger than I'm used to. Jesus I feel like I'm gonna bust the mobo at this rate.

 

[hypernima]

got my check today, can't even afford the part i wanted lol.
ah well I can still get lower cost components on sale now.

 

[cackhyena]

Okay got them, thanks guys. Standard stuff on screen. Only goofy thing is it says on the list of things that theres a CPU fan error. It's running fine for me, though. Something I should be worried about?