Most likely just a low rpm warning, you can change that in the settings.
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"I need a New PC!" 2012 Thread. 22nm+28nm, Tri-Gate, and reading the OP. [Part 1]
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Most likely just a low rpm warning, you can change that in the settings.
Okay thanks. Off to get it set in the case. Feel like such a nuisance here, but thanks all. Hopefully I don't have any more questions.
Should come with the case?
Zaraki_Kenpachi
Member
What is so bad about build quality? Does antec use a plastic front? Because they others do but the rest is metal. I'm confused about the huge chunk of metal blocking intake fans by the hard drive bays, there isn't there's only metal strips for where the harddrives click in with the bracket, the space between drives has an opening though. (Nvm, just saw video that you can remove it completely) The negative pressure doesn't feel like too big of a deal when you can get fans really cheap, it doesn't seem like there is any in the front part which is disappointing though. The fractal case definitely has better filters that are much bigger and nicer. What do you mean about radiator support? Where do those mount? I have no intention of water cooling. Fractal does have ssd mountings with the trays from the bottom which is just as nice as antec then, that's all I wanted.
Edit: I don't know what you mean by rubber grommets for #8, it looks like antec has more than fractal from the video I was watching for it's cable management.
stupid me. They were hidden in the case. Thanks guys! back to building and hope to report back on my new pc :]
EDIT: I've been trying to screw in 3 screws for the past 20 minutes and they just will not go in. Three of the screws have already been screwed in no problem but these other three won't. Can anyone help?
eso76
Member
i can't believe i am the only one having issues with the samsung f3 hdd.
When i try to install windows it tells me it's just 32mb large.
Even in Bios it appears as 32 mb.
I look that up and it's some bullshit HPA samsung puts in its drives, and i need to
(have another computer ready, so that i can download their stupid utility and burn a bootable cd with it) use
ES TOOLS
(but upon selecting set max address, i'm given an "Abort" message for some reason)
or
SEA TOOLS (which, upon selecting the equivalent option tells me i need to make sure the hdd is power cycled, despite all other tests running fine).
What the hell am i supposed to do with this pos ?
When i try to install windows it tells me it's just 32mb large.
Even in Bios it appears as 32 mb.
I look that up and it's some bullshit HPA samsung puts in its drives, and i need to
(have another computer ready, so that i can download their stupid utility and burn a bootable cd with it) use
ES TOOLS
(but upon selecting set max address, i'm given an "Abort" message for some reason)
or
SEA TOOLS (which, upon selecting the equivalent option tells me i need to make sure the hdd is power cycled, despite all other tests running fine).
What the hell am i supposed to do with this pos ?
There's more to build quality than materials used. How they fit together, how they are machined/molded, how it all holds up. Both BMW and Kia use plastic in their cars, but the fit and finish on a BMW is much better.
The hard drive bay in the front of the Eleven Hundred is two sheets of metal with small holes cut out between each drive bay. That's two sheets of metal that completely obstruct airflow. With the Arc, you can remove one half of it and still have plenty of room to mount HDDs/SSDs while having a less obstructed intake. With the 690, you can reduce it to the exact number of trays you need.
While the negative pressure might not seem like a big deal, if you buy two 120mm fans at lets say $8 a piece, that increases the price by $16, making it an even worse value.
The H100 is pretty popular, and it's a closed loop watercooling system. To mount a standard 240mm radiator, you need two 120mm fans with 15mm spacing between the two. This is a pretty standard feature. It seems as if it was a specific omission to prevent their customers from spending money elsewhere when they have their own Kuhler series. Hate that kind of practice.
The missing grommets are the ones above the motherboard tray, next to the roof. They didnt allow proper spacing for the standardized holes, and as a result, probably couldn't source the right size of rubber grommets without increasing the price of the case.
If you really really want it, and think that I'm trying to be combative, please let me know. I will relent
If you remove those panels, you'll notice a big plastic piece with cross strips that hold the dust filter in place. Bend back the tabs on the metal mesh to separate it from the plastic support piece. Once it's removed, you can either cut out all of it or leave just enough to hold the dust filter in place. For the top one, since it's exhaust, there's no reason at all to leave the dust filter there.
That'll help bring in a bit more airflow as well as reduce the noise from the turbulence caused by the plastic pattern.
That'll help bring in a bit more airflow as well as reduce the noise from the turbulence caused by the plastic pattern.
Okay, thanks for the tip, will do it tomorrow
And I just read that by removing the plastic on the top panel you can place 3 fans for a 360 radiator for WC. Great !
You do have to cut into the case quite a bit to make it fit. Took me an afternoon to do the same.
Yeah I figured out that was not the easy way to do WC in this case but when I'll have the money and time (and a dremel) I'd would totally get into it.
Have a look at this thread, the guy's insane !
http://forum.hardware.fr/hfr/Overcl...cation-boitier-integration-sujet_276169_1.htm
RibbedHero
Member
Picked up a P8Z77-V PREMIUM from Amazon for the absolute bargain price of £128. I was going to spend £109 on the P8Z77-V LK, so an extra 20 bones for a motherboard that goes for $450 was a no brainer. I'm not sure how many of the advanced features I'll use though.
SSD caching looks like it should be great, especially since ASUS included a 32GB mSATA, but how big of a performance difference generally and in terms of overclocking could this mobo eke out of a 3570K paired with a GTX 670 Windforce 3X? Are any of the other features all that great?
Seeing as this mobo supports dual PCIe 3.0 x16, I'm looking to get a PSU that can support SLI'd 670s along with 2-3 HDDs and an SSD. Would the Corsair HX750 work well? Maybe go for the HX850?
Lastly, would it work fine if I were to SLI my GTX 670 Windforce 3X with a reference card down the line? I hear that it should work, but it wouldn't be optimal.
Thanks
SSD caching looks like it should be great, especially since ASUS included a 32GB mSATA, but how big of a performance difference generally and in terms of overclocking could this mobo eke out of a 3570K paired with a GTX 670 Windforce 3X? Are any of the other features all that great?
Seeing as this mobo supports dual PCIe 3.0 x16, I'm looking to get a PSU that can support SLI'd 670s along with 2-3 HDDs and an SSD. Would the Corsair HX750 work well? Maybe go for the HX850?
Lastly, would it work fine if I were to SLI my GTX 670 Windforce 3X with a reference card down the line? I hear that it should work, but it wouldn't be optimal.
Thanks
Hi guys I just purchased an Sata 3 SSD to upgrade my desktop (Samsung 830 256gb). I had a couple questions.
Current relevant setup info my mobo has four Sata 2 ports, and two Sata 3 ports.
I currently have two Samsung F3's Sata 2 500gb drives in a Raid 0 (so 1TB total storage). I didnt realize at the time when I built the thing, but one of them is plugged into a Sata 2 port, the other is plugged into a Sata 3 port (I havent had any issues at all with this setup).
The other Sata 3 port is being used by a DVD writer.
So here are my questions:
1. When I plug in the new SSD, can I just unplug the old HD (plugged into the Sata 3 port) and replug it in one of the Sata 2 ports? I would then plug in the SSD into the now-available Sata 3 port. Or will that mess up my Raid setup / other bios settings? Would love it if I didnt have to mess with Bios settings for my old drives.
2. My new SSD is not a replacement for my current drives; I just want Windows on it and any current games Im playing. Id keep older, less load heavy games (like old cheap Steam games) on the old drives. Im going to do a clean Windows 7 install on the new drive. My question is, is there a way to get Windows OFF the old drives without formatting the whole thing? If I could uninstall windows on the old drives, keep all my other files / games / music etc. Then just move stuff over and/or delete & reinstall stuff on the new drive as it pleases me. Most guides online just talk about replacing drives in which they just tell you to do a clean windows install, but dont discuss about what to do with your old stuff in the case of a SSD addition
Current relevant setup info my mobo has four Sata 2 ports, and two Sata 3 ports.
I currently have two Samsung F3's Sata 2 500gb drives in a Raid 0 (so 1TB total storage). I didnt realize at the time when I built the thing, but one of them is plugged into a Sata 2 port, the other is plugged into a Sata 3 port (I havent had any issues at all with this setup).
The other Sata 3 port is being used by a DVD writer.
So here are my questions:
1. When I plug in the new SSD, can I just unplug the old HD (plugged into the Sata 3 port) and replug it in one of the Sata 2 ports? I would then plug in the SSD into the now-available Sata 3 port. Or will that mess up my Raid setup / other bios settings? Would love it if I didnt have to mess with Bios settings for my old drives.
2. My new SSD is not a replacement for my current drives; I just want Windows on it and any current games Im playing. Id keep older, less load heavy games (like old cheap Steam games) on the old drives. Im going to do a clean Windows 7 install on the new drive. My question is, is there a way to get Windows OFF the old drives without formatting the whole thing? If I could uninstall windows on the old drives, keep all my other files / games / music etc. Then just move stuff over and/or delete & reinstall stuff on the new drive as it pleases me. Most guides online just talk about replacing drives in which they just tell you to do a clean windows install, but dont discuss about what to do with your old stuff in the case of a SSD addition
brandonh83
Banned
Planning to get a new card after the plethora of games I bought off Steam. I have a 480W PSU, am I good?
edit: nvm, checking the OP is usually an amazing idea.
edit: nvm, checking the OP is usually an amazing idea.
1) if it's using the same storage controller, it should detect that the moved HDD is part of a existing raid setup and adjust so shouldn't be a problem. If there is a problem, just move the HDD back. Instead, use the DVD sata3 ports for SSD instead. Then, move the DVD drive to a unuse sata2 port.
2) When moving Windows install, people using clone the drive. In you case, cloning from 1TB to 256GB wouldn't be possible without getting amout of data down to fit the SSD. Easy and faster to just do a fresh Windows install on SSD.
Canis lupus
Member
Wow I do not even get a top score with my 2500k in windows index score. :/
You need at least a 6 core cpu to get the top score 7.9 for the processor.
Zaraki_Kenpachi
Member
There's more to build quality than materials used. How they fit together, how they are machined/molded, how it all holds up. Both BMW and Kia use plastic in their cars, but the fit and finish on a BMW is much better.
The hard drive bay in the front of the Eleven Hundred is two sheets of metal with small holes cut out between each drive bay. That's two sheets of metal that completely obstruct airflow. With the Arc, you can remove one half of it and still have plenty of room to mount HDDs/SSDs while having a less obstructed intake. With the 690, you can reduce it to the exact number of trays you need.
While the negative pressure might not seem like a big deal, if you buy two 120mm fans at lets say $8 a piece, that increases the price by $16, making it an even worse value.
The H100 is pretty popular, and it's a closed loop watercooling system. To mount a standard 240mm radiator, you need two 120mm fans with 15mm spacing between the two. This is a pretty standard feature. It seems as if it was a specific omission to prevent their customers from spending money elsewhere when they have their own Kuhler series. Hate that kind of practice.
The missing grommets are the ones above the motherboard tray, next to the roof. They didnt allow proper spacing for the standardized holes, and as a result, probably couldn't source the right size of rubber grommets without increasing the price of the case.
If you really really want it, and think that I'm trying to be combative, please let me know. I will relent
No no, not at all! I appreciate your opinion that's why I'm asking you. In the video it's hard to see that high because of the lip so I assumed that for the grommet but wanted to check. Maybe I'll see if I can find a review video of the cool master. The plastic clips still give me a bad feeling just looking at it but I'll check. I've just had too many bad experiences and the antec ones are metal which is much more reassuring. The removing is nice in the fractal though, I really like that to open up space. I dislike plastic faces since they can crack but the ones that cracked where the hinged ones that opened up to show the dvd tray and stuff so this might be ok. I'm used to working in more industrial area too though so the wear and tear shouldn't be to the same extent either though.
How does the radiator work? Is it mounted inside the case somewhere for the fans? I know nothing about water cooling.Zaraki_Kenpachi
Member
Bleh, no video reviews for the coolmaster? Lame. :/
Black_Stride
do not tempt fate do not contrain Wonder Woman's thighs do not do not
Cuz a 2500K is no match for a 3960X or a 2687
Both of those would score top marks.....the 2500K is just too weak in comparison and the win index pretty i guess expects better.
What do you mean? Have you already installed windows and now it just keeps booting to the bios? You have to change the boot order so that the SSD is #1 from the bios.
Zaraki_Kenpachi
Member
Oh shit, coolmaster has hot swappable drive tray at the top of the case!?!!??! DO WANT
Edit: Coolmaster just jumped to my most wanted case. Not crazy about the locking for the dvd drive slots but it's bearable and lack of grommeting on cabling holes is disappointing but the other positives outweight those negatives. Definitely impressed so far and comes with and ssd adapter like I wanted too which is cool.
Edit: Coolmaster just jumped to my most wanted case. Not crazy about the locking for the dvd drive slots but it's bearable and lack of grommeting on cabling holes is disappointing but the other positives outweight those negatives. Definitely impressed so far and comes with and ssd adapter like I wanted too which is cool.
ProtoCents
Banned
Has anyone dealt with returning parts to Amazon? About to send back a bad EVGA GTX 670 FTW. Was told not to bother RMA'ing it if still in the Amazon window.
Asus releases first 144 Hz monitor, dubbed VG278HE
I'm happy to see that manufacturers aren't stopping at 120Hz. Even when it gets hard to visually distinguish, every additional Hz still decreases the impact of triple-buffered vsync on input lag, improves responsiveness and mitigates RTC artifacts. Let's hope that the vendors get into a refresh rate war.
I'm happy to see that manufacturers aren't stopping at 120Hz. Even when it gets hard to visually distinguish, every additional Hz still decreases the impact of triple-buffered vsync on input lag, improves responsiveness and mitigates RTC artifacts. Let's hope that the vendors get into a refresh rate war.
No, it was asking if I wanted to pres del to go to bios. It was trying to read off the ssd that had my old windows on it. I restarted and put in the new windows install disc and now it's going the way it should. I think.
Zaraki_Kenpachi
Member
Amazon is amazing, many times they'll next day a replacement to you if it's defective. And you don't pay return shipping on defective products.
Sutton Dagger
Member
I've noticed a massive increase in people switching to PC's (I just did as well), this gen is well and truly done now, I couldn't imagine going back to consoles at this rate.
I was wondering, in a years time would I be better going SLI with my 670, or just selling this off and getting a new gpu? I seem to get mixed responses about SLI, some say to avoid it at all costs, some say you will get great performance across the board.
I was wondering, in a years time would I be better going SLI with my 670, or just selling this off and getting a new gpu? I seem to get mixed responses about SLI, some say to avoid it at all costs, some say you will get great performance across the board.
Depends on how sensitive you are to microstuttering.
Zaraki_Kenpachi
Member
It has microstuttering that bothers some. If you can get a sweet deal on two it's nice but other than that it's not necessary really. Unless you're crazy and need things like crysis completely maxed day one at 1080p, most games performally really well on modern cards in general, I used to use sli and went back to one card. Some games don't support sli too and it may run worse with sli enabled than just using one card. It's not extrememly common but still occured when I had two 8800GTs in SLI before and was annoying since it ran kind of shitty with one 8800GT because the cards were old by then but as long as it supported SLI it ran pretty much as well as a new card.
Zaraki_Kenpachi
Member
Zaraki_Kenpachi
Member
You definitely don't need a 750W power supply, you're just wasting money for that high.
Why is the 670 so expensive? You can get them for $400...
Why is the 670 so expensive? You can get them for $400...
72hz is the theoretical limit of your eye's interpretation of images; 144hz is a logical doubling of that limit to smooth it out completely, similar to the concept of downsampling. I assume at least.
He's Aussie.
Opt for the Hyper 212 Plus instead. EVO offers no real cooling improvement.
Zaraki_Kenpachi
Member
Ah, that explains the slightly higher prices. Too used to looking at US builds.
And I really want the nvidia version of the coolmaster 690 but it's $20 more.
I really like green though. Edit: It's a shame every case has a downside. The lack of usb 3.0 is also disappointing on the cooler master.
So this is my first time using a SSD. Can anyone tell me some DON'Ts with these things?
I know you should not defrag.
I was told that turning your PC off would also hurt it and I should use sleep mode. Is that true?
I also have a habit of reformatting my PC every 3-4 months. With that cause issues?
I know you should not defrag.
I was told that turning your PC off would also hurt it and I should use sleep mode. Is that true?
I also have a habit of reformatting my PC every 3-4 months. With that cause issues?
Sutton Dagger
Member
Thinking about this:
Any thoughts? I'd like to know that the build makes sense and that I'm not missing anything. Anything that isn't necessary or a waste of money?
I'm not really worried about the price at the moment. I'll shop around later. Australian dollars, by the way.
Pretty much may same build, and it's friggin awesome.
I would go for the Gigabyte 670 instead (and I think most people would agree) and it's only $10 more.
I would also grab another case fan as someone here recommended, that way you can move the stock exhaust fan to the front (so you'll have 2 intakes) and then use the new one as an exhaust.
Zaraki_Kenpachi
Member
Why do you need to reformat so often? What are you doing to your OS installs? And no, I always turn off my pc, what would that do to an ssd?
http://www.overclock3d.net/reviews/cases_cooling/cooler_master_690_ii_advanced_black_white_review/1Ah, that explains the slightly higher prices. Too used to looking at US builds.
And I really want the nvidia version of the coolmaster 690 but it's $20 more.
Edit: It's a shame every case has a downside. The lack of usb 3.0 is also disappointing on the cooler master.
That's a review of the black and white edition, which is the same as the others in function.
*edit
The newest version does have USB 3.0 headers.
They are still selling old stock of the previous version. Was updated a few months ago.
LightofRohan
Member
Nevermind I figured it out ):
Zaraki_Kenpachi
Member
Ahhhhhhhhh, thanks for mentioning that. I just clicked on the first result but ncix has both listed as the same exact name but if you read the description one is usb 3.0 and one isn't. That's why one is $8 cheaper. Why don't they add that to the header for the search result? So unnecessarily confusing especially when they list the old stock first. I'll get the new one then. I think I'm decided on cooler master unless you have a complaint about that one too?
Salacious Crumb
Junior Member
To add to what everyone else has said I'd go with this SSD for $4 more over the 330:
http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=210_902_1370&products_id=20429
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