"I need a New PC!" 2012 Thread. 22nm+28nm, Tri-Gate, and reading the OP. [Part 1]
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do the noctuas have controllable speed fans? When I built my gaming PC last year I ended up just running them with a LNA inline at a fixed speed, because they couldn't be controlled from my motherboard. They were nice and quiet though
Does it matter anyway?
All fans can have controllable speed. It either happens through PWM (pulse wave modulation) which can be easily identified by having 4 pin headers, or through voltage via a voltage regulation controller. The latter requires a fan controller.
To be honest, I hate all of that business and always prefer to buy fans that operate at acceptable noise levels at 100%. Corsair SP/AP Quiet, Noctua NF-F12s, low RPM NoiseBlockers, and Bitfenix Spectre Pros are all almost silent at the full 12V.
No one knows. We might be able to answer it once we get some benching done on UE4. Probably good though.
Whichever one doesn't interfere with video card cooling.
Check the cable?I just received my new 27" dell u2711 ultrasharp.
Hooked it up to my old PC to test it and the picture was a total mess, almost impossible to read any text etc. I also managed to count to over 100 dead pixels before I gave up counting.
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Dries
Member
Hey guys, I'm kinda getting low performance on some games so I want to do a driver sweep and just have a fresh and clean install (specifically: the 12.6 ATI drivers). So does anyone know good software to get rid of all my drivers?
Also: how dangerous is this? If it is, what pre-cautions should I make?
Also: how dangerous is this? If it is, what pre-cautions should I make?
The cable works just fine with my old screen and I suppose the dead pixels can't be a cable related problem. Think I just have to send it back.
Try a different one, to be sure.
Doesn't it use a dual link DVI?
OP, it's Driver Sweeper or CCleaner.
Uninstall through windows add/remove, restart into safe mode and run driver sweeper/ccleaner and clean out anything that says Catalyst or AMD (ATI doesn't exist anymore), then restart again and install latest drivers.
Also make sure the folder they decompress into is deleted.
Dries
Member
So first just manually uninstall the drivers in windows add/remove, and after that use Driver Sweeper in safe mode? Gotcha.
btw, what do you mean by ''the folder they decompress''? Sorry, pretty much a newbie in this area.
When you run an installer, it will decompress the files to be installed into a folder. What you can do is run an installer, and when you see it decompress, make a note of it.
All sorts of older files can be mixed in and cause driver installation issues. I'm fairly certain that this is the source of a lot of people's perceived problems with AMD, as well as incorrectly installing/uninstalling drivers.
Otherwise, google should have an answer. Probably something like C:AMD/Drivers or some such thing.
All sorts of older files can be mixed in and cause driver installation issues. I'm fairly certain that this is the source of a lot of people's perceived problems with AMD, as well as incorrectly installing/uninstalling drivers.
Otherwise, google should have an answer. Probably something like C:AMD/Drivers or some such thing.
Weird issue came up, would appreciate any help. Google'd around, but couldn't get anything conclusive.
I just opened up my PC to dust it out like I do every month or so. After the dusting, I plugged all my cables back in and booted up my computer, but instead of booting like normally, my BIOS prompts me to choose a boot device. This has never happened before, and I don't have it set to do that. So I choose my main drive and go, but nothing happens, just a blank black screen. I tried this a few more times, same thing. Then I tried the "Windows Boot Manager" option, and it booted like normal, and everything seems ok. Is this something I should be worried about? Can I fix this so it will "naturally" boot from my Windows drive?
Pertinent specs are: ASRock Z68 Gen3, Crucial M4 64GB, Windows 7 x64 Home Pro
Thanks again for any help.
I just opened up my PC to dust it out like I do every month or so. After the dusting, I plugged all my cables back in and booted up my computer, but instead of booting like normally, my BIOS prompts me to choose a boot device. This has never happened before, and I don't have it set to do that. So I choose my main drive and go, but nothing happens, just a blank black screen. I tried this a few more times, same thing. Then I tried the "Windows Boot Manager" option, and it booted like normal, and everything seems ok. Is this something I should be worried about? Can I fix this so it will "naturally" boot from my Windows drive?
Pertinent specs are: ASRock Z68 Gen3, Crucial M4 64GB, Windows 7 x64 Home Pro
Thanks again for any help.
It had been set up that way, and my PC had been running completely fine. After the dusting, my PC will not boot from my main OS drive anymore. It will only boot from the "Windows Boot Manager" option.
Happened to me a while back too while I was doing some cable management. Do what mkenyon said. Turns out that the USB flash drive I had stuck in got #1 priority in the boot device list for some reason.
specialguy
Banned
Saw a 7850 is down to $219 with no rebate+free shipping on newegg. But it's a Visiontek. decent brand? Where are they based?
Also, a Visiontek 7970 for $370 with 6 free games at Tiger Direct/Circuit City. Damn damn good deal. Not sure about Visiontek but it seems to be a reference design anyway
http://www.circuitcity.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=3419957&CatId=7387
You might be able to sell all the games on ebay for like $50, bringing your cost to $320 for a 7970.
Amazing deals from AMD these days, sad they have to do this to move product.
Also, a Visiontek 7970 for $370 with 6 free games at Tiger Direct/Circuit City. Damn damn good deal. Not sure about Visiontek but it seems to be a reference design anyway
http://www.circuitcity.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=3419957&CatId=7387
You might be able to sell all the games on ebay for like $50, bringing your cost to $320 for a 7970.
Amazing deals from AMD these days, sad they have to do this to move product.
Check again. Probably got reset during the unplugging/replugging, happens all of the time.
Just checked it, it's set to Windows Boot Manager, as I set it that way. PC will not boot if I set my boot order to have my OS drive first, or if I manually select it off a prompt. It will only boot off of Windows Boot Manager. I don't have any USB drives plugged in.
Yeap, I didn't physically move anything besides the case panels when I dusted. Just ran the air can through a few times and put everything back together.
Ah, when I said that, I meant I unplugged the cords in the back. Like power, ethernet, etc. No flash drives or externals.
After some more googling, something may have happened to my master boot record, or something like that. I'm not sure I want to mess with it, considering my computer seems to be working fine. But it's one of those things that's kind of picking at me that I'd like to fix.
Cannon Goose
Member
Is there a way to manually assign numbers to my displays? My TV is plugged in with HDMI and is always number 1 with the desktop DVI monitor coming up as number 2.
It's getting annoying having games open on the 'first' screen even when it isn't turned on.
It's getting annoying having games open on the 'first' screen even when it isn't turned on.
Click 'make this my primary display' for the one you want to be your primary display.
Overclock it. It's still a great processor. Shoot for the 4.0Ghz range if possible.
So what does doing that mean for someone? Like, whatever my future 3570 is set at. If I bump it up a few notches like that to 4.0Ghz or whatever it can reach, what am I getting for that? Honestly have no clue.
As has been said, overclock it. Got mine up to 3.8GHz and it runs well.
Games that are heavily CPU bound, such as UE3 games or SC2 require really high clocks to maintain a solid framerate.
On a i5, you have four cores/threads that programs can use. For all intents and purposes, lets imagine this as four different processors. Starcraft has to compute all of the back-end non-graphical stuff. The way the engine is made, it only uses one of your cores to do so. Essentially, 3/4 of your processor is going unused at this point.
The way to compensate for this very widespread issue is to make the cores super super speedy. 'Turbo Boost' is a built in way to do this, as in the backend, your processor will know that only a single core is being used. It will then downclock the other cores and overclock the single core in order to give better performance.
"If it's already being done for me, why would I want to do this?", a normal person would ask.
Overclocking the entire processor is doing the same thing, except to a larger degree and with *all* of the cores. Games based on the UE3 engine use two threads/cores, so 'Turbo Boost' won't have that same positive effect with it as it would single-threaded applications.
With people who are a gen or two behind on processors, overclocking is a fairly easy way to get additional linear performance in the range of 20-35%, and it only costs you some time and maybe an aftermarket CPU cooler.
With people on SB/IB/SB-E, the reason why it is suggested is because is so freaking easy. You literally change two values in BIOS and all of a sudden your processor is 20-40% faster, with almost no negative side effects.
Those games that were once CPU bound will all of a sudden perform like they should because you have the processor resources available to do so.
On a i5, you have four cores/threads that programs can use. For all intents and purposes, lets imagine this as four different processors. Starcraft has to compute all of the back-end non-graphical stuff. The way the engine is made, it only uses one of your cores to do so. Essentially, 3/4 of your processor is going unused at this point.
The way to compensate for this very widespread issue is to make the cores super super speedy. 'Turbo Boost' is a built in way to do this, as in the backend, your processor will know that only a single core is being used. It will then downclock the other cores and overclock the single core in order to give better performance.
"If it's already being done for me, why would I want to do this?", a normal person would ask.
Overclocking the entire processor is doing the same thing, except to a larger degree and with *all* of the cores. Games based on the UE3 engine use two threads/cores, so 'Turbo Boost' won't have that same positive effect with it as it would single-threaded applications.
With people who are a gen or two behind on processors, overclocking is a fairly easy way to get additional linear performance in the range of 20-35%, and it only costs you some time and maybe an aftermarket CPU cooler.
With people on SB/IB/SB-E, the reason why it is suggested is because is so freaking easy. You literally change two values in BIOS and all of a sudden your processor is 20-40% faster, with almost no negative side effects.
Those games that were once CPU bound will all of a sudden perform like they should because you have the processor resources available to do so.
Idle doesn't mean a whole lot. I wouldn't worry about it unless you were in the 80s on load. What cooler are you using?
Thermalright CoGage True Spirit
What might those be?
No, having your primary display not be #1 still fucks everything up. I've yet to find a solution for it.
4. I have a low range lian li case. I just hit 85-88C on a full run of Unigine benchmark.
Works fine on mine. Running a BenQ XL2420 as #2, and a Crossover as #1 in portrait mode. Games never pop up on the Crossover.
If that sounds like too much of a hassle, and you have money burning a hole in your pocket, then you could certainly upgrade to IB/SB. Would require mobo/cpu, and possibly RAM. Depends on whether its rated for 1.65 or 1.5V.
If done improperly, the worst that is going to happen is random blue screens. There are so many built in safety mechanisms that it's essentially impossible to fry it.
It will also consume more power, and generate more heat. Neither of those things are too much of an issue though.
Advice would be to maybe clean out your computer, and take a look at the types of fans on the case as well as the cooler. Maybe even reseat your heatsink.
If that sounds like too much of a hassle, and you have money burning a hole in your pocket, then you could certainly upgrade to IB/SB. Would require mobo/cpu, and possibly RAM. Depends on whether its rated for 1.65 or 1.5V.
If done properly (and it's hard to screw up), it might mean your processor's life is reduced to 10-15 years instead of 20.
If done improperly, the worst that is going to happen is random blue screens. There are so many built in safety mechanisms that it's essentially impossible to fry it.
It will also consume more power, and generate more heat. Neither of those things are too much of an issue though.
Yes that will solve what screen full screen applications default to, but as soon as you connect your TV, if it's #1 everything will be transferred to it.
AFAIK the numbering is hardware/firmware defined and there's no way to change it.
No prob! If your drivers were out of date, then they are constantly doing tweaks to give better performance in games.
Otherwise, it's way above my head to answer. I can put them together, but I sure as hell don't know how to program.
I didn't see where he was saying it only happens when he plugs it in. This was unknown to me though, thanks for the tip.
What would be the best bang for buck combo? I will try to reseat the heatsink in the meantime. What is good thermal paste as well because ill probably have to reapply some better shit.
Ah, so the need for some cooler beyond the fans built into the Fractal R3 case I'm getting would probably be necessary. Thanks for all the help, man.
2500K + Z77, Biostar E3, ASRock Pro 4, or Asus -LK for the motherboard. OP has the exact model names.
Everything pales in comparison to Phobya HeGrease. It has solid performance on poor, moderate, and great mounting. Plus it doesn't cost an arm and a leg. Available through Performance PC's or Frozen CPU.
Everything pales in comparison to Phobya HeGrease. It has solid performance on poor, moderate, and great mounting. Plus it doesn't cost an arm and a leg. Available through Performance PC's or Frozen CPU.
Yeah, that's why we suggest the CM212+ in the OP with almost all of the builds. And no prob
Good deal for anyone in the UK, CCL have the 3570K for £144.60
http://www.cclonline.com/product/73...-6MB-L3-Cache-5GT/s-Bus-Speed-Boxed-/CPU0102/
http://www.cclonline.com/product/73...-6MB-L3-Cache-5GT/s-Bus-Speed-Boxed-/CPU0102/
I'm just looking to upgrade my CPU, GPU, case, increase RAM and PSU (if needed.) Any help would be appreciated.
Current Specs: Core i7 920 2.6Ghz / 6GB DDR3 / X58 SLI LE Socket 1366 X58 ATX / ATI Radeon 5850 / 1000 Watt ATX Modular
Budget: $800 + USA
Main Use: Gaming, Emulation, Video Editing, HD Streaming, Photo editing, 3D work, General Usage
Monitor Resolution: 1080p Most game playing is done on TV and I'm getting a new 26 inch monitor
When will you build?: In the next week or so.
Will you be overclocking?: Maybe
Current Specs: Core i7 920 2.6Ghz / 6GB DDR3 / X58 SLI LE Socket 1366 X58 ATX / ATI Radeon 5850 / 1000 Watt ATX Modular
Budget: $800 + USA
Main Use: Gaming, Emulation, Video Editing, HD Streaming, Photo editing, 3D work, General Usage
Monitor Resolution: 1080p Most game playing is done on TV and I'm getting a new 26 inch monitor
When will you build?: In the next week or so.
Will you be overclocking?: Maybe
RibbedHero
Member
Saw it on Google Shopping while I was searching an hour or so ago, ordered. Excellent deal.
If the multimedia stuff is really important, for business and the like, you might want to consider a 3930K and an X79 motherboard.
Otherwise, go with a 3770K and the rest of the goodies from the 'Excellent' category.
In either case, 16GB RAM is a good bet. 32GB if you want to go all out on the 3930K/X79. Pending sticker shock survival, if you have more questions about specific parts with that, let me know.
CoachKevin
Member
Took about 90 minutes but everything seems to be good to go! Installing Windows 7 and all the drivers now. Should be playing some steam games tonight!
CoachKevin
Member
OK, looks like I need some help.
When I hook both cables from the power supply to the GTX 570 the computer will not boot.
Any idea what is going on?
Here is what I have minus the CPU cooler, I decided to just use the stock one. Also I went with a 2TB WD Black HD
[/QUOTE]
When I hook both cables from the power supply to the GTX 570 the computer will not boot.
Any idea what is going on?
Here is what I have minus the CPU cooler, I decided to just use the stock one. Also I went with a 2TB WD Black HD
CoachKevin
Member
Correct.When the power from the power supply is plugged into the 570 I get nothing on the screen when I boot, even from the on board graphics. When I unplug the power to the 570 it boots fine.
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