1) Is the display cord plugged into the 570 instead of the onboard?
2) Is the PCI-E connector plugged all the way into the PSU and all the way into the 570? Force that bitch hard.
3) You certain you are using the PCI-E cable?
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2) Is the PCI-E connector plugged all the way into the PSU and all the way into the 570? Force that bitch hard.
3) You certain you are using the PCI-E cable?
CoachKevin
Member
1. Nope, it is plugged into onboard
2. Yes, firmly connected.
3. Yes, and a second cable from the power supply. The 570 has 2 6 socket power ports.
CoachKevin
Member
Because the GTX570 does not have it's drivers installed, and it won't show video anyways.
Ya it will. It doesn't need drivers to see whats on the screen.
Yup, it'll still be able to display Windows without drivers.
CoachKevin
Member
I tried it with the dvi cable hooked to the 570, still nothing.
The error is in something not being seated, or a cable not being where it should be. Unplug everything, reseat the video card, and plug everything back in.
Your BIOS will automatically disable the onboard. If you want both, unplug the 570, put DVI back to onboard. Boot into BIOS, and for onboard display device, switch it from 'auto' to 'on'.
Then you can boot into windows with the 570 plugged in and see if you can work your magic there after you install display drivers.
Your BIOS will automatically disable the onboard. If you want both, unplug the 570, put DVI back to onboard. Boot into BIOS, and for onboard display device, switch it from 'auto' to 'on'.
Then you can boot into windows with the 570 plugged in and see if you can work your magic there after you install display drivers.
CoachKevin
Member
OK will try that after windows update finished. So you don't think the power supply just doesn't have enough juice for the card? Thanks to you all for your help with this.
CoachKevin
Member
Thank you mkenyon! that worked! installing the drivers now!
Hey guys, finally booted up my copy of Saints Row 3 and noticed some really slight stuttering with the graphics, especially when driving cars. It's too minor for a framedrop to be noticed in fraps, but it is definitely noticeable. Like a few frames are being missed or something. Any idea on what this is and how to fix it?
Should've mentioned I'm using a 560Ti
Should've mentioned I'm using a 560Ti
So I have a weird thing occuring with my Asus GTX 570 Direct CU2. When I play a game or a video (be it direct feed from the HDD or Youtube) I've got some red tiny lines (2-3 pixels height) flickering through the TV screen, when I'm just on Windows, idle, it stays clean. I'm using a brand new HDMI cable also.
What I tried to lock down the issue was:
-Hook up the PC via DVI to a dedicated PC monitor (1600*1050 pixel) => nothing (games or video)
-Using the IGP from the 2500K => same, no red lines during video playback
-Reseted factory clocks and voltage (was OC a bit)
-Installed latest drivers from Nvidia => still those annoying red lines.
Could it be the HDMI on my card going bananas
?
What I tried to lock down the issue was:
-Hook up the PC via DVI to a dedicated PC monitor (1600*1050 pixel) => nothing (games or video)
-Using the IGP from the 2500K => same, no red lines during video playback
-Reseted factory clocks and voltage (was OC a bit)
-Installed latest drivers from Nvidia => still those annoying red lines.
Could it be the HDMI on my card going bananas
?ninjaurbano
Member
I'm running a i5 3570k overclocked with the stock cooler at 4200mhz and the temperatures are always below 60º at full load - is this totally safe or is it still recommended to buy a better cpu cooler?
I'm also a newbie to overclock. In order to reach 4200mhz, is it enough (and recommended) to only increase the multiplier to 42x, without tweaking any other setting?
Also, is it really worth to go beyond 4200mhz? (I'm using a GTX 670, btw).
I'm also a newbie to overclock. In order to reach 4200mhz, is it enough (and recommended) to only increase the multiplier to 42x, without tweaking any other setting?
Also, is it really worth to go beyond 4200mhz? (I'm using a GTX 670, btw).
LightofRohan
Member
Anyone got a good idea on what brand of Nvidia 570 to get around 250-300 bucks? I'm leaning towards the MSI.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814127682
But I dunno! D: Thanks for any help!
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814127682
But I dunno! D: Thanks for any help!
metalshade
Member
This is my completed build I think.
My wife just surprised me with a transfer to my account and said I should stop fretting and GO for it!
Just want to make sure it's good by you guys.
Using for lots of gaming and HD streaming.
Will overclock fairly soon I reckon, hence the non stock CPU cooler and P67 Mobo.
Am I good to go with submitting my orders guys?
CPU: Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz Processor 6MB L3 Cache 5GT/s Bus Speed £145 CCL Computers
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler (£26.65 @ Scan.co.uk)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-P67A-D3-B3 ATX LGA1155 Motherboard (£72.60 @ Amazon UK)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory (£40.56 @ Scan.co.uk)
GPU: MSI HD 6870 OC AMD Radeon Graphics Card - 1GB £120 Scan.co.uk
Hard Drive: Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (£63.19 @ CCL Computers)
Case: XClio Godspeed Two Advanced ATX Mid Tower Case (£32.38 @ Scan.co.uk)
Power Supply: Corsair 600W ATX12V Power Supply (£53.52 @ Scan.co.uk)
Optical Drive: Lite-On iHOS104-06 Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Drive (£43.42 @ Scan.co.uk)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 (64-bit) (£71.77 @ CCL Computers)
Total: £670 ish.
My wife just surprised me with a transfer to my account and said I should stop fretting and GO for it!
Just want to make sure it's good by you guys.
Using for lots of gaming and HD streaming.
Will overclock fairly soon I reckon, hence the non stock CPU cooler and P67 Mobo.
Am I good to go with submitting my orders guys?
CPU: Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz Processor 6MB L3 Cache 5GT/s Bus Speed £145 CCL Computers
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler (£26.65 @ Scan.co.uk)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-P67A-D3-B3 ATX LGA1155 Motherboard (£72.60 @ Amazon UK)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory (£40.56 @ Scan.co.uk)
GPU: MSI HD 6870 OC AMD Radeon Graphics Card - 1GB £120 Scan.co.uk
Hard Drive: Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (£63.19 @ CCL Computers)
Case: XClio Godspeed Two Advanced ATX Mid Tower Case (£32.38 @ Scan.co.uk)
Power Supply: Corsair 600W ATX12V Power Supply (£53.52 @ Scan.co.uk)
Optical Drive: Lite-On iHOS104-06 Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Drive (£43.42 @ Scan.co.uk)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 (64-bit) (£71.77 @ CCL Computers)
Total: £670 ish.
metalshade
Member
Dont think I can afford to do that though. Better Mobo adds another £30 to my listing.
But the smaller PSU shaved a few quid off thanks.
Can I get away with the Mobo I had chosen, will it be a problem?
My mechanical does the same thing. I can hear it sleep and wake up too ... all grouchy and everything!
Azzurri
Gold Member
Yea, it bugs me, takes like 10 secs to load up.
You will have to flash the bios to make it compatible with the Ivy cpu revision if you don't go with Z77.
Yes, go into the power settings menu, then go into your power plan and click advanced, and find the HDD power options.
metalshade
Member
In that case I guess I can make room for it by cutting the CPU cooler and just using the stock one until I overclock?
This is the PC I got a few months ago, runs every game I've tried to play at Ultra settings except BF3. But, I changed the settings around etc and have effects and textures on ultra, everything else on medium/high and it runs like a beauty. Great price for a great computer.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16883229285
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16883229285
dskillzhtown
keep your strippers out of my American football
Got my new SSD installed today. For those that don't remember, my OCz SSD crapped out on me, replaced it with a Samsung and things are great.
Seems the model of OCZ that I had has a bunch of issues. I didn't do any research on that front when buying, just bought what was in the store that day because I was in such a hurry to build. Lost a few files, but not many. Thanks for everyone's help. This is a hell of a help for us novice PC-builders.
Here is a pic of the build -
Seems the model of OCZ that I had has a bunch of issues. I didn't do any research on that front when buying, just bought what was in the store that day because I was in such a hurry to build. Lost a few files, but not many. Thanks for everyone's help. This is a hell of a help for us novice PC-builders.
Here is a pic of the build -
Cooler Master QuickFire keyboards: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0068INSUM/?tag=neogaf0e-20
Newegg Rosewill keyboards. I don't know if the $64 sale is still going on: http://slickdeals.net/permadeal/771...e-freebies-cherry-mx-brown-red-or-blue-switch
As for switch, I like the blues very much as I type a lot and game some.
I'll look into those. Thanks!
I use one of the loud blank DAS keyboards (MX Blue) at home. Very high quality.
At work I use a Leopold (MX Blue) quality is decent but you can tell there's a difference between it and the DAS.
I'd recommend either brand.
But only awesome people use the blank DAS keyboards ... you're an awesome person right?
No prob.
Processor?
Also, this is totally random, but I remember reading a post by you in the Android thread about a good game to play that is in the strategy vein. I was on my Note, and got distracted. Seeing your name reminded me.
You need to play Star Traders RPG Elite. I'm not a huge RPG guy, but this game at it's core is a hardcore turn based strategy game. There is no better game on android, and might be a contender for my favorite single player game on any platform for the last few years.
Multiplier + voltage. It is in some games. T:A needs 4.5Ghz to get a stable 120FPS.
What are you using to determine 'under load'? 60s seems really really low for a stock heatsink at 4.2GHz.
Did a quick browsing without even clicking your link, and I picked the same one. Definitely the way to go.
Rosewill and Coolermaster Quickfire Rapids are both rebranded Filcos, which is a good thing. If you don't use a numpad, definitely a Quickfire Rapid Red/Brown or Leopold Tenkeyless Red/Brown. Tenkeyless makes gaming so much better, I actually ended up buying a fullsize leopold red to compliment my tenkeyless leopold red for when I need to do remote access work.
Well, that's the other thing I don't want to trim too much and not be able current and next gen games, I know the build I have setup isn't the greatest. But I would at least like to be able to play next gen games on medium graphics.
No one knows what will be required for that. In most multi threaded games, there isn't a substantial difference of performance between non-K i5s and i3s. If you want to be decently prepared for next gen, a much better bet is a processor that can clock to 4.2-4.5 GHz. If you can't afford that now, go i3 and save up for when you start feeling the hurt.
gutterboy44
Member
Pulled the trigger tonight on the BenQ 24" 120hz. I look forward to seeing what buzz is about. Currently I am on a 4 y/o 32" Sony Bravia XBR and the picture quality for PC hook up just isn't up to snuff. Loosing 8" but hopefully gaining a lot in picture quality.
Wow, good memory thanks dude! I will check it out now! And my processor is a AMD Phenom Black (?)
D
Deleted member 22576
Unconfirmed Member
There's a big ole box of computer parts on my doorstep! Won't be home for another two hours or so but I can't wait!
If you've got the system to push close to 120fps you're gonna be amazed. You'll even notice a difference in regular desktop use.
ninjaurbano
Member
I'm using Prime95 Small FFT right now and the temperatures I'm getting, after 10 minutes, are 56-57º. Also, there is nothing fancy about my cabinet: it's not big and I'm only using two coolers (one in the front and one in the back).
About the overclock itself, I'm not manually changing the voltage, but I guess this is done automatically. My Vcore, when the CPU is under load, is 1,184V (and nothing more) - is it safe or do I need to change the voltage manually?
EDIT: It seems like the Asus Monitor Sensor, which I was using, is giving very different tempeatures compared to RealTemp. (57º vs almost 90º). I guess I should trust RealTemp and get a better cooler.
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