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[bdrob]

Finally made my decisions and have just ordered the following:

Bundle: CPU, Memory & Motherboard - £473.28
CPU: Intel Core i5 3570K (@4.5ghz)
RAM: 16GB (2x8GB) Corsair Vengeance LP
Mobo: Asus P8Z77-V LX
SSD: 240GB Corsair Neutron - £167.09
HDD: 2TB Seagate ST2000DM001 Barracuda 7200.14 - £70.78
Case: Corsair 300R Black Mid Tower - £64.00
GPU: 2GB EVGA GTX 670 FTW - £306.80

Total: £1,081.94

Didn't plan on getting a new GPU, but Dad expressed an interest in mine when I told him I was building a new computer. As such, will be moving the old 570 onto my Dad and the rest of my old system onto my Grandad.

Looking forward to getting it all together, hardest part was settling on an SSD. The Samsung 840 Pro seemed to be the cream of the crop, but just a bit too much of a premium for my tastes. In the end the Corsair Neutron looked interesting, has solid performance and was priced mid way between the Sandisk and Samsung, so thought what the heck!

Thanks for all the input and suggestions kharma45, as you can see I took a fair few on board and I really appreciate it. The Corsair Carbide 300R we were both looking at did take my fancy in the end. Performance wise I don't think it was quite up to the Coolermaster you linked, but that white plastic ... I just couldn't ...

 

[cazar]

I am in the process of building a PC mostly for gaming, at the side doing occasional photoshopping and video editing. As it is a first PC that I build myself I'd like to have some input on my choices where I can reduce price or get better parts.

Games that I'll be playing are Skyrim with as many visual enhancement as possible along with Metro 2033, Battlefield 3 and few others. Future titles that I hope to run on some form are Metro: Last Light and Crysis 3. Resolution for gaming 1080p or if I buy a new display too then 1200p.


My list:

Case: Fractal Design Define R4 Arctic White - 109€
CPU: Intel Core: i5 3570K - 205€
Motherboard: Asus P8Z77-V PRO - 168€
Ram: 16GB Corsair Vengeance LP Blue 86€
CPU cooler: Noctua NH-D14 - 70€
GPU: 3072MB Asus Radeon HD 7970 Matrix Platinum Edition - 455€
SSD: 180GB Intel 520 Series - 140€
HDD: 1000GB Samsung Spinpoint F3 - 68€
PSU: 700 Watt Super Flower Golden Green Modular - 106€



Total: 1407€

The total comes right around my budget, but anywhere I can save is always a plus. I'll probably add some case fans and the CPU cooler I chose with overclocking in mind.
GPU I could go for cheaper part and wait for next high-end cards from AMD and nVidia

 

[ant_]

I have a GTX 660 TI & an i5 3570k 3.4GHz.

What's the best motherboard to get?
For RAM I was going to get Corsair Vengeance, is there a better option?

 

[Glass Rebel]

A friend of mine wants to upgrade his RAM and I'm a bit dumbfounded at the RAM support. He has this MoBo and it says it supports 2100+/1333/1066/800 Mhz. I wanted to suggest 1600 RAM first but when I saw it wasn't mentioned I thought I'd ask in this thread to be 100% sure. What would you guys suggest?

 

[Omega]

what is/is there a difference between internal OEM and internal optical drive?

they look like they do exactly the same thing so obviously im missing something

 

[sixghost]

I overclocked to 4.5 at 1.32v, and let Prime95 run for 12 hours. The maximum temperature was 64-67 across the four cores, and the average was about 55 most of the time. Is there anything else I need to do? It seems pretty stable.

Unfortunately I forgot to take a screenshot before closing CPU-Z and Realtemp.

 

[scogoth]

what is/is there a difference between internal OEM and internal optical drive?

they look like they do exactly the same thing so obviously im missing something

OEM just means original equipment manufacturer. It means the product comes straight from the factory with usually no retail box, no software and no accessories.

 

[Whooter]

what is/is there a difference between internal OEM and internal optical drive?

they look like they do exactly the same thing so obviously im missing something

OEM stands for Original Equipment Manufacturer. OEM drives are usually just a bare drive (maybe in a baggie) versus getting a retail box with drivers/software. They perform identically.

edit: beaten like a rented mule

 

[ACH1LL3US]

I am not sure where to post this but I got my pc up and running and I am getting the following for temps:

i7 980x runs at 17 C, even after hours of gaming
Asus Rampage 3 black edition mother board runs at 32 c even after hrs of gaming

Both the CPU and Motherboard are liquid cooled, is this normal temps?

pics:

Inside ( liquid tubing sleeved with MDPC-X)

[/url]
photo by CoolHandsM3, on Flickr[/img]


Shot of my custom Ikea butcher block desk I made with custom Samsung 32 inch tv debezzeled and powder coated:

[/url]
photo (8) by CoolHandsM3, on Flickr[/img]

 

[Ty4on]

I overclocked to 4.5 at 1.32v, and let Prime95 run for 12 hours. The maximum temperature was 64-67 across the four cores, and the average was about 55 most of the time. Is there anything else I need to do? It seems pretty stable.

Unfortunately I forgot to take a screenshot before closing CPU-Z and Realtemp.

That's cold, overclock it some more

Otherwise it should be stable.

 

[scogoth]

I am not sure where to post this but I got my pc up and running and I am getting the following for temps:

i7 980x runs at 17 C, even after hours of gaming
Asus Rampage 3 black edition mother board runs at 32 c even after hrs of gaming

Both the CPU and Motherboard are liquid cooled, is this normal temps?

pics:

Inside ( liquid tubing sleeved with MDPC-X)

[/url]
photo by CoolHandsM3, on Flickr[/img]


Shot of my custom Ikea butcher block desk I made with custom Samsung 32 inch tv debezzeled and powder coated:

[/url]
photo (8) by CoolHandsM3, on Flickr[/img]

It would be normal if you are using phase change cooling or your ambient was 0. I don't think your CPU is reporting temps properly.

 

[sixghost]

That's cold, overclock it some more

Otherwise it should be stable.

I really just wanted to overclock it enough that my CPU wasn't the bottleneck in Planetside 2. Maybe I'll try to overclock it a bit more once I overclock my GPU a bit.

 

[ACH1LL3US]

It would be normal if you are using phase change cooling or your ambient was 0. I don't think your CPU is reporting temps properly.

I am checking the temps on the MB bios, is ther a better program to see the temps? Before I liquid cooled this setup, the MB was running at 60-70c and the cpu was around 50-60c so the liquid cooling I expected to lower temps, but not by that much!

 

[Echoplx]

Is a VP450 enough for a GTX660ti? Also, I've never used a non modular PSU will there be two 6pin connectors to plug it all in properly?

ED: looking at this it seems like it should be fine? http://www.techspot.com/review/565-nvidia-geforce-gtx-660-ti/page11.html

Anyone? I think i'll swap for the 550 just to be safe..

 

[NoRéN]

Need a good wireless router recommendation thats around $50-$75

I've been suing this one for almost one year now.
Linksys E2500 Advanced Simultaneous Dual-Band Wireless-N Router

Been great so far. I know it's a couple of bucks above your range but I've had a very positive experience with it.

 

[scogoth]

I am checking the temps on the MB bios, is ther a better program to see the temps? Before I liquid cooled this setup, the MB was running at 60-70c and the cpu was around 50-60c so the liquid cooling I expected to lower temps, but not by that much!

Yeah use realtemp or hwmonitor or any over program. It's not possible for the CPU temp to be lower then air temperature unless you have phase change cooling, peltier coolers or LN2. BIOS temps are not always accurate.

 

[Infinite Justice]

what is/is there a difference between internal OEM and internal optical drive?

they look like they do exactly the same thing so obviously im missing something

i assume you mean internal OEM optical drive vs internal optical drive

the main difference is packaging since the OEM versions are literally the bare part only (i.e hard drive, optical drive, etc only. No fancy packaging, manuals, connectors, CD/DVD with programs/drivers/etc).

The other one is usually a retail version which stores buy to sell to people, so that will have the fancy packaging, manuals, cd/dvds, etc).


IIRC OEM means Original Equipment Manufacturer and refers to a company who sells these parts to other computer companies who would add the parts in there own machines they were selling, so they wouldn't need all that packaging stuff. eg Dell make computers but they dont usually make the Optical drive themselves so they could buy them from a company that does (eg Samsung or Toshiba) for a reduced price due to lack of packaging and/or bulk purchasing.

Newegg and others can get these parts also to sell to a savvy customer, plus there is normally a cost difference of being cheaper than the retail version of the same product since you are not getting the markup for the packaging and stuff.

 

[BigAT]

I just got an SSD for Christmas, is there a consensus one way or the other on whether I should migrate my OS over from current hard drive or should I just put a fresh install on my SSD?

 

[Plasmid]

How does this look?

http://pcpartpicker.com/p/uvtr

 

[Dreams-Visions]

I just got an SSD for Christmas, is there a consensus one way or the other on whether I should migrate my OS over from current hard drive or should I just put a fresh install on my SSD?

just fresh install and slave your old HDD. copy over files as you need them and call it a day. unless you have a ton of customized features running.

 

[garath]

Need a good wireless router recommendation thats around $50-$75

I just purchased this router about 3 months ago. Its been fantastic. Uses dd-wrt and has great range. It covers my whole house where my old one was a little weak on the opposite side. Haven't had to power cycle it yet either. That was the whole reason I replaced my old dlink. I kept having to power cycle it.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0096239FG/?tag=neogaf0e-20

 

[Omega]

never built my own pc and while I've used some of the guides/FAQs provided on the front page i just want to make sure there's no issues

is this motherboard compatible with this GPU?

 

[Ty4on]

I really just wanted to overclock it enough that my CPU wasn't the bottleneck in Planetside 2. Maybe I'll try to overclock it a bit more once I overclock my GPU a bit.

Just joking, my 50C 3570k is still stock, hasn't bottlenecked me that much in PS2.

 

[Azzurri]

Need a little help.

Lately chrome and other apps have been laggy, especially when I have my tabs open in chrome. if I click on them they either lag between switching or what is really annoying is when I click on a tab and it goes to a separate window.

Should I re install windows?

 

[kharma45]

never built my own pc and while I've used some of the guides/FAQs provided on the front page i just want to make sure there's no issues

is this motherboard compatible with this GPU?

It will.

Anyone? I think i'll swap for the 550 just to be safe..

I would too, either an Antec BP550 Plus or an XFX Core 550w, the former being modular and the latter a rebadged Seasonic.

How does this look?

http://pcpartpicker.com/p/uvtr

B75 board could save some money if you don't need all those PCI slots (and by the looks of it you don't, and the B75 board also gives you SATA 3 support and USB 3 which the H61 doesn't. If you do need more PCI slots then there is this too), but bar that looks a good solid budget build.

Need a little help.

Lately chrome and other apps have been laggy, especially when I have my tabs open in chrome. if I click on them they either lag between switching or what is really annoying is when I click on a tab and it goes to a separate window.

Should I re install windows?

Use Task Manager to see if anything is hogging resources.

 

[Labombadog]

Okay guys I need help.

I recently updated my GPU driver (after using driver sweeper to clean my old drivers out in safe mode) from 12.6 to 12.10 and noticed there is plenty of flickering happening on both of my monitors. This happens while on the desktop, but does not happen when playing a game.

I decided to revert back to 12.6 (and even tried 12.2 as well) but the issue is still here. Not quite sure what to do here and this flickering is quite annoying.

Any help?

 

[DrForester]

So I ended up ordering a new case for my build. Found out antec did a v3 of the 193 case, with USB 3.0. Least I can return all the fans I bought today.


On another note, whats the best way to get rid of an old PC? Part it out? Try to sell assembled? Only thing I'd have to get to sell this is a cheap hard drive. and an OS if I wanted to sell it with one.

 

[kharma45]

Okay guys I need help.

I recently updated my GPU driver (after using driver sweeper to clean my old drivers out in safe mode) from 12.6 to 12.10 and noticed there is plenty of flickering happening on both of my monitors. This happens while on the desktop, but does not happen when playing a game.

I decided to revert back to 12.6 (and even tried 12.2 as well) but the issue is still here. Not quite sure what to do here and this flickering is quite annoying.

Any help?

Ironically it could've been driver sweeper that was the issue, you don't really need to do that when updating drivers now.

 

[Labombadog]

Ironically it could've been driver sweeper that was the issue, you don't really need to do that when updating drivers now.

I appreciate your input but I highly doubt it because when I first installed 12.10 I did not do the Driver Sweeper method and when it started to flicker I decided to use Driver Sweeper and reinstall 12.10 but it is still happening.

Thanks.

 

[kharma45]

I appreciate your input but I highly doubt it because when I first installed 12.10 I did not do the Driver Sweeper method and when it started to flicker I decided to use Driver Sweeper and reinstall 12.10 but it is still happening.

Thanks.

Fair do's, just seen it reported that using it can give issues. It may not work but tried the 12.8 driver?

 

[Dreams-Visions]

6950 is officially brokored and has been issued a RMA.

The sensor that controls the fan (based on temperature) is brokor'd and forces the fan to stay permanently at 6000rpm. According to the people I was talking with at the RMA company, this is a fairly typical failure of 69 series cards. 7xxx cards tend to have more artifacting issues than sensor failures.

GTX670 on the way to hold me over. May keep it, depending on how I like it, but I'll probably just send it back when my replacement 6950 arrives. It really is good enough, and I was hoping to hold out on buying a top-of-the-line card until the next wave of consoles launch so that I can have confidence that my rig will play those games @ 1920x1200/60. Not that a current edition 670 might not, but with only 2GB of VRAM, it makes me a bit nervous.

 

[Labombadog]

I have tried 12.8.

I was just experimenting and noticed that it only happens when I am use the 'Extend these displays' in the resolution option in desktop.

Edit: I lied. It also happens when I create a 'Eyefinity Display group'. Not quite sure what is going on.

Any PC gurus in GAF right now?

 

[AzureSkies]

After just purchasing a brand new 1920x1080 monitor, I was thinking about possibly changing my graphics card to get better performance out of my computer at 1920x1080 or something closer. So I filled out the form on the topic but this is just for my graphics card:

Your Current Specs: AMD Phenom II X4 B60 (was an X2 560 but unlocked) / 8GB DDR3 RAM / ASUS motherboard (can't tell you at the moment, recently moved) / ATI Radeon HD 6770 / 500W PSU
Budget: $100-200 + Canada
Monitor Resolution: 1920x1080 - possibly windowed resolutions that are pretty close too
List SPECIFIC games that you MUST be able to play: Natural Selection II, PlanetSide II, Battlefield 3, Left 4 Dead 2, Killing Floor, Guild Wars 2, Phantasy Star Online 2, Team Fortress 2

Right now, I'm looking at the ATI Radeon HD 7850, however I'm looking for the best that I could get for budget. So I wouldn't mind picking up either Nvidia or ATI or the previous generation of cards.

 

[kharma45]

After just purchasing a brand new 1920x1080 monitor, I was thinking about possibly changing my graphics card to get better performance out of my computer at 1920x1080 or something closer. So I filled out the form on the topic but this is just for my graphics card:

Your Current Specs: AMD Phenom II X4 B60 (was an X2 560 but unlocked) / 8GB DDR3 RAM / ASUS motherboard (can't tell you at the moment, recently moved) / ATI Radeon HD 6770 / 500W PSU
Budget: $100-200 + Canada
Monitor Resolution: 1920x1080 - possibly windowed resolutions that are pretty close too
List SPECIFIC games that you MUST be able to play: Natural Selection II, PlanetSide II, Battlefield 3, Left 4 Dead 2, Killing Floor, Guild Wars 2, Phantasy Star Online 2, Team Fortress 2

Right now, I'm looking at the ATI Radeon HD 7850, however I'm looking for the best that I could get for budget. So I wouldn't mind picking up either Nvidia or ATI or the previous generation of cards.

7850 is a very good bang for buck card, there's little from the last generation to compete really unless something like a 580 has some sort of crazy price drop somewhere.

 

[SoulClap]

6950 is officially brokored and has been issued a RMA.

The sensor that controls the fan (based on temperature) is brokor'd and forces the fan to stay permanently at 6000rpm. According to the people I was talking with at the RMA company, this is a fairly typical failure of 69 series cards. 7xxx cards tend to have more artifacting issues than sensor failures.

GTX670 on the way to hold me over. May keep it, depending on how I like it, but I'll probably just send it back when my replacement 6950 arrives. It really is good enough, and I was hoping to hold out on buying a top-of-the-line card until the next wave of consoles launch so that I can have confidence that my rig will play those games @ 1920x1200/60. Not that a current edition 670 might not, but with only 2GB of VRAM, it makes me a bit nervous.

I already feel like 2GB is holding me back a little. Couldn't go as crazy as I wanted with the hi res texture mods in Skyrim.

 

[HungOverOnATues]

A friend of mine is building a new pc and needs to pick out a case. He'll be running an i5 3570k and an Hd7970 right now and probably another 7970 in crossfire next year. Since he'll be doing ps2 and will emulation he's getting a noctua nh-d14 and overclocking the cpu. Do you guys think that a fractal define r4 will be sufficient enough as far as cooling is concerned for an overclocked cpu and crossfire gpu setup?

 

[Azure Dream]

Between Christmas and some saving, I've got about $1250 or so stocked up for a new PC. Trying to organize one from parts has proved daunting, though, even with the help of the build guides in the OT. With this thread's help I assembled one for a sibling something like a year ago (and then built a duplicate for their spouse), and I would definitely appreciate any assistance again.

Here are my goals for it:
-I want to play games like Sleeping Dogs, Sonic Generations, and Skyrim on it at 60 FPS at native resolution, if possible. Even better if they can handle 3D output without hitching.
-I tinker with some amateur 3D rendering work, but very simple stuff, very hobbyist.
-I would like it to support 3D output (in lieu of a 3D monitor, I have a 3D TV nearby. I'm also very interested in the Oculus Rift when that arrives, but I don't know of any specific compatibility information for that).

I haven't upgraded in quite a while (with the exception of a Radeon 4600 series card I bought two or so years ago), so this is guaranteed to be a big step up.

Here's what I've got so far, without specifically comparing prices too much. I will say I'm lucky in that I live within driving distance of a Micro Center, which helps with at least one item.
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/uBxZ

• CPU: Intel Core i7-3770K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor $229.99
  Even with sales tax, I can get this much cheaper at a local Micro Center than on PCPartPicker
• CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler $29.98
• Motherboard: Asus P8Z77-V ATX LGA1155 Motherboard $189.99
  NewEgg listing includes free 8 GB Memory
• Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory $37.98
  Only 8 GB, and slightly different from OP guide to match free memory included with Motherboard. Bad idea?
• HDD: Western Digital Caviar Black 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive $89.99
  Some of the reviews are a bit worrying, and while I've had an okay history with WDs, it hasn't always been the best
  [I've decided that I can wait a little longer on the HD, and always plonk one in a little later. Between the new SSD and the drives I'm carrying over, I should manage ok.]
• SSD: Samsung 840 Pro Series 128GB 2.5" Solid State Disk $119.99
  To stick the OS and some games on
• Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 670 2GB Video Card $399.99 (-$20.00 MIR)
  I am not set on this one particular card, I just picked one based on the OP recommendations for the second. I would prefer an Nvidia this time, and I do want it able to output 3D video. (Although since most people just force 3D in drivers, I'm not sure if Vision 2 compatibility is a requirement.)
• Case: NZXT Phantom 410 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case $99.99
  Is this case going to be OK for this build? Will airflow be too much of an issue?
• Power Supply: Antec Basiq Plus 550W 80 PLUS Certified ATX12V Power Supply $64.99
  Will this build require a meatier power supply?
• Optical Drive: Asus BW-12B1ST/BLK/G/AS Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer $79.60 (-$20.00 MIR)
  I didn't plan on getting a Blu-Ray burner, but it's a $20 difference, and there's a MIR for that. I know it doesn't come with BR player software.
• Monitor: Asus VS238H-P 23.0" Monitor $139.99
  The ASUS VH236H was recommended in a recent "I need a monitor" thread. This one seems like a small step up, on sale for the exact same price as the ASUS VH236H, although that ends tonight.
• Operating System: Microsoft Windows 7 Professional SP1 (OEM) (64-bit) $129.98
  I don't think the New UI of Windows 8 is for me, not yet.

And 6.750% state (OH) sales tax rate, where that applies. (Micro Center, for example.)

I'll also be carrying over a Seagate Barracuda ST3300831AS (300GB) and a Western Digital Black WD7501AALS (750GB) from my existing PC. Technically I can live without the Seagate, but if there's room to bring it over, I might as well.

And it's silly, but I do need a new keyboard, too. I can upgrade to a mechanical later, but for now, I wouldn't mind recommendations for something inexpensive, preferably with volume buttons/a dial on it, like my Sony VAIO PCVA-KB7P/U.


So as you can see, that doesn't quite fit my budget as it stands. The video card is probably the first place I should budge, but that's part of the point of upgrading, so I'm not sure how far to cut that back, especially if I'm interested in 3D content. Any recommendations?

 

[gogojira]

Does a GTX 680 typically go on sale for $400 (with two games)? Seems cheap to me, but I can't say I've actively tracked pricing.

 

[jarosh]

Maybe one of you guys has an idea what's going on with my system...

It's been doing these strange lock-ups for a few months that always last about ~2 minutes. Every few hours, sometimes only every other day, in the middle of playing a game the system will just sort of half-freeze. Often the audio will keep playing, but sometimes it will get "stuck" as well. It has also happened once or twice while just browsing the net or messing with Steam. At first it always seems like the computer freezes completely, but it always responds to a ctrl-alt-del, showing me the Windows 7 screen with the options to lock the computer, start the task manager etc. It won't, however, do anything when I click on any of the options. Sometimes the ctrl-alt-del screen will come up, but it won't actually show the menu, instead I get the Win 7 "hourglass" and a message saying something like "security options are being prepared". Once the computer unfreezes, which it ALWAYS does after about 2 minutes, the menu will finally load. If I just don't do anything once it freezes, it'll go back to normal after 2 minutes, as if nothing happened, and I can resume playing the game or go back to doing whatever I was doing.

It's strange, because it just feels like a forced 2 minute break once a day or so with no apparent side effects, so it hasn't bothered me terribly. Sure, when you're in the middle of a crucial moment in a game it CAN be a bit annoying. Either way, this obviously SHOULDN'T happen and I'd like to know what's causing it. The system is completely stable otherwise.

Any ideas?

(For the record, I still don't have a lot installed on this machine. It's primarily used for gaming. Steam is on it and some other clients and gaming stuff. Drivers mostly for gaming peripherals, bluetooth and the like, then there's Dropbox, VLC and Chrome. That's it, more or less.)

Anyone? :/

 

[soulassssns]

Can someone re-educate me on all things Intel? I plan on building a intel based pc soon and I havent done that since the Pentium 4 was out.

Should I get sandy bridge or ivy?

i3 or i5? i7 is too pricey for me.

motherboard chipset? manufacturer?

I use Newegg.com so links to what you think is a good setup would be helpful.

thanks in advance.

 

[Sandfox]

Can someone re-educate me on all things Intel? I plan on building a intel based pc soon and I havent done that since the Pentium 4 was out.

Should I get sandy bridge or ivy?

i3 or i5? i7 is too pricey for me.

motherboard chipset? manufacturer?

I use Newegg.com so links to what you think is a good setup would be helpful.

thanks in advance.

What do you want it to be able to do and how much do you want to spend?

 

[kennah]

Read the OP. Most of your questions are answered there

 

[Plasmid]

Fuck i totally forgot do i need a wireless card? Whats a cheap one that'll work well?

 

[soulassssns]

What do you want it to be able to do and how much do you want to spend?

I am only planning on getting a new motherboard, cpu and ram with everything else being reusable.

Spending limit of 500$.

anybody recommend this intel proc?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819116503

 

[DTKT]

Anyone? :/

So, that's a really weird issue, but I found this which talks about "security options are being prepared".

The issue was a bad cluster on the hard drive.

After days of chasing this issue on my own system, the error turned out to be a bad cluster on the Hard Drive. Replaced the Hard Drive- no more error.

 

[Piercedveil]

My brother's new build is all done and BIOS are all set up! Going to be installing Windows tomorrow. Is there anything we should do after installing Windows, like a benchmark program or is he good to go? We checked temps in the BIOS and they seem great. Any reason to use another program to do that again?

Thanks guys.

 

[DTKT]

My brother's new build is all done and BIOS are all set up! Going to be installing Windows tomorrow. Is there anything we should do after installing Windows, like a benchmark program or is he good to go? We checked temps in the BIOS and they seem great. Any reason to use another program to do that again?

Thanks guys.

Usually, you check idle and load temps. Try running something graphically intensive and see how everything holds up. It also helps to see if there are any power issues.

 

[Lkr]

I am only planning on getting a new motherboard, cpu and ram with everything else being reusable.

Spending limit of 500$.

anybody recommend this intel proc?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819116503

get a i5 3570k

 

[Piercedveil]

Usually, you check idle and load temps. Try running something graphically intensive and see how everything holds up. It also helps to see if there are any power issues.

Got it. Thanks!

 

[n64coder]

Anyone? :/

Sorry, I have no ideas. I can see why that behavior would be frustrating. I would suggest a reinstall of the OS.