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"I need a New PC!" 2012 Thread. Ivy, SSDs, and reading the OP. [Part 2]

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IceIpor

Member
Anyone? :/

It sort of sounds like a problem I have, except that I think I know the reason for mine.

I have an old HDD in my system that came into existence around the time SATA was first introduced. It has both an IDE and SATA port.

Ever since I've switched to a new MB that doesn't support IDE anymore, there would be random pauses (10-30 seconds) whenever a program that was located on that certain HDD was run.
I'm using Windows 8, so I can see that the active time shoots up to 100% and the response time is in the >20000 ms range whenever that happens.

I've grown to assume that the drive doesn't properly support reads/writes/spin down in SATA mode and that's why I get random pauses all the time whenever I run anything from it that requires constant access.

My solution was to move all the programs off of that particular drive and treat it as a storage drive instead.
 
My brother's new build is all done and BIOS are all set up! Going to be installing Windows tomorrow. Is there anything we should do after installing Windows, like a benchmark program or is he good to go? We checked temps in the BIOS and they seem great. Any reason to use another program to do that again?

Thanks guys.

Some will say that BIOS temps are not always reliable...

You can check your CPU temp to ensure its alright by getting either realtemp or core temp, plus a nice way to test your system is running a program called prime 95. This program will simulate the system running at full load.

These programs are used alot by overclockers checking to see if their CPU cooler is holding up on their overclocked cpu but it can be used normally also.
 
Some will say that BIOS temps are not always reliable...

You can check your CPU temp to ensure its alright by getting either realtemp or core temp, plus a nice way to test your system is running a program called prime 95. This program will simulate the system running at full load.

These programs are used alot by overclockers checking to see if their CPU cooler is holding up on their overclocked cpu but it can be used normally also.

Thanks, we will run prime 95 as well. If for some reason temps seem too high or something, will the program just shut itself down?
 

DTKT

Member
Thanks, we will run prime 95 as well. If for some reason temps seem too high or something, will the program just shut itself down?

Most motherboards and CPU have a built-in auto-shutdown feature. But it's safer to watch Prime running and see what kind of temps you are getting.
 
Thanks, we will run prime 95 as well. If for some reason temps seem too high or something, will the program just shut itself down?

once prime95 detects an error it should stop the program but there is a chance the computer itself will auto-shutdown before that to protect the equipment.

As long as you placed enough themal paste on the CPU (the cooler that is included in your CPU box will have the paste already applied or a themal pad so you just need to install) and your cooler was correctly installed you should be fine imo
 

NoRéN

Member
Anybody have a good case recommendation? Budget is $80ish.
Looking for a basic case:p
Is the HAF912 a good one?

That's the one I bought. Really enjoying it at the moment. Plenty of space. It included a bunch screws for different types of fans and hard drives. Fans are quiet and drive installation is easy.
 
Most motherboards and CPU have a built-in auto-shutdown feature. But it's safer to watch Prime running and see what kind of temps you are getting.

once prime95 detects an error it should stop the program but there is a chance the computer itself will auto-shutdown before that to protect the equipment.

As long as you placed enough themal paste on the CPU (the cooler that is included in your CPU box will have the paste already applied or a themal pad so you just need to install) and your cooler was correctly installed you should be fine imo

Thanks a lot guys!
 

Artanisix

Member
Between Christmas and some saving, I've got about $1250 or so stocked up for a new PC. Trying to organize one from parts has proved daunting, though, even with the help of the build guides in the OT. With this thread's help I assembled one for a sibling something like a year ago (and then built a duplicate for their spouse), and I would definitely appreciate any assistance again.

Hey,

3D enthusiast here too. I asked the thread earlier what kind of GPU I should go for and some posters highly recommended you go for the GTX 670 with 4gb VRAM. I have not made the dive yet (still waiting to see if I actually need a 3D monitor or not for Oculus Rift) but thought I'd give you the heads up.
 

jarosh

Member
So, that's a really weird issue, but I found this which talks about "security options are being prepared".

The issue was a bad cluster on the hard drive.

It sort of sounds like a problem I have, except that I think I know the reason for mine.

I have an old HDD in my system that came into existence around the time SATA was first introduced. It has both an IDE and SATA port.

Ever since I've switched to a new MB that doesn't support IDE anymore, there would be random pauses (10-30 seconds) whenever a program that was located on that certain HDD was run.
I'm using Windows 8, so I can see that the active time shoots up to 100% and the response time is in the >20000 ms range whenever that happens.

I've grown to assume that the drive doesn't properly support reads/writes/spin down in SATA mode and that's why I get random pauses all the time whenever I run anything from it that requires constant access.

My solution was to move all the programs off of that particular drive and treat it as a storage drive instead.

Thanks for the pointers, guys. It isn't likely to be the same exact issue from that forum post (behavior is quite different), but it's very possible that it has something to do with my HDD or SSD, now that I think about it. I'll run some tests and see if I can figure out if there's something wrong with one of my drives.
 
The HDD in my 3.5 year old computer is dead and I figured I might as well upgrade to something newer before I reinstall everything. I have two questions.

1. What's the latest ETA for Haswell and Maxwell?

2. How much of a performance boost would I get by waiting for the next generation of CPU/GPU? I plan to build something similar to the Enthusiast build in the OP.
 

kharma45

Member
The HDD in my 3.5 year old computer is dead and I figured I might as well upgrade to something newer before I reinstall everything. I have two questions.

1. What's the latest ETA for Haswell and Maxwell?

2. How much of a performance boost would I get by waiting for the next generation of CPU/GPU? I plan to build something similar to the Enthusiast build in the OP.

Last thing I saw for Haswell was a Q2 2013 launch. Performance wise maybe a 10-15% boost over IB clock for clock.
 

GHG

Member
Right. I'm going to put together my new build when the rest of my parts arrive today and I have a few questions:

I have a new SSD which will be my OS drive (will install Windows 7) but I will be carrying over the HDD that I'm using in my current system (which currently has windows 7 installed). I want to place this drive into the new system but then delete the OS and boot files so that I can keep all my other files and not lose them. What is the easiest way of doing this without causing any conflicts?

I'm going SLI from the get-go with this new build as well. Should I install both GPU's together from the start with the SLI bridge connected or should I install one card 1st and then the other once that one is all installed?
 

n64coder

Member
What's a good cheap wifi card? What PCI slot do they usually go in?

They're usually x1 so they can go into any slot but I would suggest putting it in an x1 slot rather than x16 which should be used for the GPU card. Your motherboard usually has 1-2 x16 slots and the rest being x8 or x1.


Right. I'm going to put together my new build when the rest of my parts arrive today and I have a few questions:

I have a new SSD which will be my OS drive (will install Windows 7) but I will be carrying over the HDD that I'm using in my current system (which currently has windows 7 installed). I want to place this drive into the new system but then delete the OS and boot files so that I can keep all my other files and not lose them. What is the easiest way of doing this without causing any conflicts?

I probably would remove the old drive, put the new SSD in, install Windows and then put the old drive back in. I suspect that the boot manager will show that you have two copies of Windows and which one you want to boot from. Boot from the correct one and then once it's up, I suggest following this thread to remove the old installation.
 
This is my first PC build, and I'm putting it together as a video editing Avid/CS6 machine. But I'll also be doing a bit of gaming and a good chunk of my daily computing on it. Here are the specs so far

http://pcpartpicker.com/p/uCiK

If anyone has any recommendations that'd be great - especially with regards to my PSU choice (is it enough even if I want to expand on the build later?), RAM type/brand, and also my keyboard and mouse, which I just threw in there basically as placeholders. Oh and also should I throw any extra fans in the case to help with cooling? I'm coming from a Mac background so most of this stuff is new to me.
 

GHG

Member
I probably would remove the old drive, put the new SSD in, install Windows and then put the old drive back in. I suspect that the boot manager will show that you have two copies of Windows and which one you want to boot from. Boot from the correct one and then once it's up, I suggest following this thread to remove the old installation.

Cool. Thanks for the tip and the link.

Anyone got any knowledge of installing SLI on a fresh system?

Also, are there any tips for general SSD maintenance or do you just treat it like a standard HDD?
 

BigTnaples

Todd Howard's Secret GAF Account
So playing through Crysis 2 right now for the first time. Playing it maxed out at 1080p aside from a couple scenes( ones with lots of rocks and tentacles) that I have to turn down "object" from ultra to extreme because the tessellation just brings the framerate down too much for my liking.


I am running this rig at the moment.

i7 3770k
6950 2GB unlocked shaders to 6970
16GB ram

So knowing that Crysis 3 will be released in February, although I am sure it will be more optimized for DX11, at the same time it will be pushing higher fidelity.


Anything in the pipes for GPU's before or soon after C3 launches? I would like to play it maxed without toning down any settings, and my specs weakest link is my GPU.

Thanks in advance.
 

kharma45

Member
This is my first PC build, and I'm putting it together as a video editing Avid/CS6 machine. But I'll also be doing a bit of gaming and a good chunk of my daily computing on it. Here are the specs so far

http://pcpartpicker.com/p/uCiK

If anyone has any recommendations that'd be great - especially with regards to my PSU choice (is it enough even if I want to expand on the build later?), RAM type/brand, and also my keyboard and mouse, which I just threw in there basically as placeholders. Oh and also should I throw any extra fans in the case to help with cooling? I'm coming from a Mac background so most of this stuff is new to me.

By expand do you mean another card in SLI?

So playing through Crysis 2 right now for the first time. Playing it maxed out at 1080p aside from a couple scenes( ones with lots of rocks and tentacles) that I have to turn down "object" from ultra to extreme because the tessellation just brings the framerate down too much for my liking.


I am running this rig at the moment.

i7 3770k
6950 2GB unlocked shaders to 6970
16GB ram

So knowing that Crysis 3 will be released in February, although I am sure it will be more optimized for DX11, at the same time it will be pushing higher fidelity.


Anything in the pipes for GPU's before or soon after C3 launches? I would like to play it maxed without toning down any settings, and my specs weakest link is my GPU.

Thanks in advance.

AMD's 8000 series might make it out in time but most likely it'll be coming Q2 2013.

Have you OC'd your GPU at all? Could help tide you over.
 
By expand do you mean another card in SLI?

No nothing like that (I believe CS6 doesn't support dual-GPU's), but leaving room to possibly jump to a more powerful card down the line. I will be adding more hard drives, and possibly setting up an internal RAID in the future. I suppose I just don't want to have my options limited by the PSU.
 

GHG

Member
No nothing like that (I believe CS6 doesn't support dual-GPU's), but leaving room to possibly jump to a more powerful card down the line. I will be adding more hard drives, and possibly setting up an internal RAID in the future. I suppose I just don't want to have my options limited by the PSU.

HDD's and the like don't take much power to be honest. Get something like a 600w PSU and you should have enough headroom to expand as much as you like as long as you're running a just a single GPU in your system.
 

kharma45

Member
No nothing like that (I believe CS6 doesn't support dual-GPU's), but leaving room to possibly jump to a more powerful card down the line. I will be adding more hard drives, and possibly setting up an internal RAID in the future. I suppose I just don't want to have my options limited by the PSU.

If you're not going SLI I'd drop your PSU to a 650w, something like this

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817151088

GPU power consumption is only ever going down so for a single card set-up, even with more HDD's, I can't see you need more than this. With your set up as it is you'd probably have 100w spare to give out of a 650w unit going by this as a rough guide http://www.extreme.outervision.com/psucalculatorlite.jsp
 

BigTnaples

Todd Howard's Secret GAF Account
By expand do you mean another card in SLI?



AMD's 8000 series might make it out in time but most likely it'll be coming Q2 2013.

Have you OC'd your GPU at all? Could help tide you over.


Had terrible luck OCing this card. Shaders unlocked just fine but an OC of anything at all, even 2-3 MHz and my screen starts going crazy. Temps are fine too. Tried for a while but won't bother anymore with it.
 
Hey,

3D enthusiast here too. I asked the thread earlier what kind of GPU I should go for and some posters highly recommended you go for the GTX 670 with 4gb VRAM. I have not made the dive yet (still waiting to see if I actually need a 3D monitor or not for Oculus Rift) but thought I'd give you the heads up.

Thanks for the response. 4GB, not 2GB? That's the opposite direction I was hoping to go. But it doesn't make sense to go this far, and hamstring myself over $30.

I've picked a card, but apparently I just missed it being on sale, to the tune of $50-70 less. I might save buying that for last, holding my breath for a better deal, I'm not sure. I won't cry about the lost games, that's what Steam Sales are for, and I haven't played more than a third of Borderlands or even touched AC2 yet.

Here's where I am after some fiddling...
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/uD2U

Total: $1556.14 (With $80 returned from Rebates if I buy by 12/30)


For the HDD, I decided to wait, between my SSD and the two (mostly full) HDDs I should be ok, and that knocks $100 off the build. Windows is also one of the last things I need to buy, and there's no point in ordering it early for the price I can just walk into a store and buy it for. Holding out hope for a sale on that soon.

If you're wondering what I'm building for, I listed the details here.

Any further recommendations how I should tweak this? Should I go back to the more basic PSU I listed before? PCPartPicker estimates I'm only hitting 341W, not counting the 2 HDDs, speakers, mouse, and keyboard.

Oh, and I wanted to check, the processor is pretty much a definite keeper at that price, right? I'm just about to go out and buy it, unless something's really wrong with it.
 

n64coder

Member
Also, are there any tips for general SSD maintenance or do you just treat it like a standard HDD?

I just treat it as a regular hard drive except that I don't run Windows fragment on it. The controller on the SSD is supposed to be spreading the writes evenly across the entire memory to extend the lifetime of the SSD. So there's really no work that you need to do except perhaps to update the firmware periodically (I have yet to do this) and just enjoying the SSD in general.

Whats the rule of thumb when buying a 2.1 sound system for your PC?

I don't have any suggestions other than trying to listen to the components to confirm that you like the sound. I'm interested in hearing what others have to say on this though.
 

Kipp

but I am taking tiny steps forward
So I haven't been keeping up with this thread or any other PC news for a few months now. Is there anything new I should be aware of? Any news popping up yet about next year's GPUs/CPUs?
 
B

bomb

Unconfirmed Member
Not sure if this is the correct thread but,

I got a quick question:

I have a 30inch 2560x1600 monitor
680sli
850W Corsair
Asus P8Z77
i7 3770k Stock Speed
16GB RAM
SSD
HR 02 MACHO
Full Case

I am having a freezing issue. Example, I was playing 2560x1600 TF2 MvM and everything was going very smoothly until at one particular time there was like 25 enemies on my screen, a few allies, and a lot of explosions going off the game froze and the sound repeated for a few seconds then TF2 automatically closed. It would seem to me to be a CPU problem, heating issue, or I need to change something in the BIOS. Do you suggest overclocking the CPU or running any sort of monitoring system?
 

Bumhead

Banned
What's the best value GPU at the moment for next gen future proofing? Within what we expect (or can at least guess) from next generation standards, anyway.

Definitely want to stick with Nvidia and looking to spend no more than about £300. Was thinking of going for a GTX660, 670 or maybe even justifying the extra £50 over my budget for a 680 if thats absolutely the best way to go. I can't stretch to a 690 right now unfortunately!

My old rig had a 560ti which I liked and which did a great job for the current gen stuff I was playing with it, but I'm wanting to build a new rig and wouldn't mind spending a little extra for a better, future proof card this time.
 

kharma45

Member
What's the best value GPU at the moment for next gen future proofing? Within what we expect (or can at least guess) from next generation standards, anyway.

Definitely want to stick with Nvidia and looking to spend no more than about £300. Was thinking of going for a GTX660, 670 or maybe even justifying the extra £50 over my budget for a 680 if thats absolutely the best way to go. I can't stretch to a 690 right now unfortunately!

My old rig had a 560ti which I liked and which did a great job for the current gen stuff I was playing with it, but I'm wanting to build a new rig and wouldn't mind spending a little extra for a better, future proof card this time.

For Nvidia go 670, the memory bus on the 660 and 660Ti could be an issue in the future.

http://www.novatech.co.uk/products/...ds/nvidiagtx670keplerseries/n670pe2gd5oc.html

http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0080DXPHO/

https://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=GX-018-KF
 

n64coder

Member
I am having a freezing issue. Example, I was playing 2560x1600 TF2 MvM and everything was going very smoothly until at one particular time there was like 25 enemies on my screen, a few allies, and a lot of explosions going off the game froze and the sound repeated for a few seconds then TF2 automatically closed. It would seem to me to be a CPU problem, heating issue, or I need to change something in the BIOS. Do you suggest overclocking the CPU or running any sort of monitoring system?

I would suggest that you confirm that you have the latest drivers for your graphics card and if not, download/install them.
 

sixghost

Member
I'm not really sure what just happened. I went through the process of overclocking two days, ago, found a stable voltage and ran Prime95 for 12 hours without any problems. The computer ran perfectly yesterday, then today I boot it up and it fails to boot to windows or freezes immediately after getting to the desktop 3 times in a row. I double checked the settings and nothing was different. I changed the settings back to factory default, and everything is running smoothly again. I don't understand how it could go from running perfectly under a stress test for so long to not even being able to boot.
 

Bumhead

Banned
Nice one thanks, in that case I'll definitely be going with a 670 I think, unless there's any particular reason why the 680 justifies the extra £50 for any great reason.

Currently putting together a possible build to assemble over the course of a few months in 2013, pretty much ready for next generation. I don't have a fluent knowledge of this sort of thing (although I did build one rig before, with assistance mind) so I need to properly research these parts, but this is what I've got so far. I'd appreciate it if someone could cast a quick eye over this build and let me know if there are any dramatic oversights or reasons why this will explode as soon as I turn it on..

- PSU: 750W Antec True Power New Modular Hybrid, 80 PLUS Bronze 120mm Quiet Fan SLI/CrossFire, EPS 12V ATX v2.3, PSU
- Fan: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO, 4 Heat Pipes Direct Contact, with 120mm Quiet Fan LGA775/1155/1156/1366/AM2/AM2+/AM3/FM1
- RAM: 16GB (4x4GB) Corsair DDR3 Vengeance Low Profile Jet Black, PC3-12800 (1600), Non-ECC, CAS 9-9-9-24, XMP, 1.5V
- Motherboard: Asus P8Z68 DELUXE, Intel Z68, S 1155, DDR3, SATA III - 6Gb/s, RAID SATA, PCIe 2.0 (x16), ATX
- Hard Drive: 1TB Western Digital WD10EZRX Caviar Green, 3.5" HDD, SATA III - 6Gb/s, IntelliPower, 64MB Cache, 8ms, OEM
- CPU: Intel Core i5 2500K Unlocked, S1155, Sandy Bridge, Quad, 3.3GHz, HD3000 IGP 850Mhz, 6MB Cache 95W Retail
- DVD Drive: LiteOn IHAS124-04 24x DVD±R, 8x DVD±DL, DVD+RW x8/-RW x6, DVD-RAM x12, SATA, Black, OEM
- Case: Fractal Design Define XL Black Pearl Full Tower Performane Case USB 3.0, Fans inc 2x 140mm, 1x 180mm, 10x HDD slots
- GPU: 2GB EVGA GTX 670, 28nm, PCIe 3.0 (x16), 6008MHz GDDR5, GPU 915MHz, Boost 980MHz, Cores 1344, DL DVI, DP, HDMI+Free Games
 

KarmaCow

Member
Okay I have no idea what to do here. I hope my GPU isn't dead but my computer doesn't recognize it all.

I've had my new computer for about 3 months and it's been working fine. Today I turn it on it got stuck on the bios/boot screen from the motherboard, not recognizing any inputs. I then turned it off, opened it up just to see how dusty it was but it looked fine. This time on booting it up, it gets past the motherboard boot screen, but I can't see anything because my monitor is hooked up to the graphics card and it doesn't seem to recognize it.

Right now I'm using the integrated graphics on the i5 but I can't figure out what is wrong. The card doesn't show up in the device manager, I tried installing a new driver but the installer says I don't have the required graphics card. The fan is working on the card and I was just using the card last night with no problems at all. I certainly didn't notice any signs of the card dying so I'm completely lost. The card has never even approached temps higher than 70 C. I'm going to try physically removing it from the motherboard and power supply again but any help would be greatly appreciated.

I'm using a Asrock z77 Pro4 motherboard and a GTX 460 v2.
 

Addnan

Member
Would a Corsair 750W be able to handle 2 GTX 670 and and 3570K with some overclocking?

Searching internet is giving me varying answers, some saying you need 1K, others saying it will be fine. Help please.
 
I plan on buying the following components and reuse the remainder from an old PC.

Motherboard: Overclocking capability
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128544

CPU: Unlocked
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819116504

CPU Heatsink/Fan: For overclocking
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835118003

HDD: Will be added as the boot drive
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820239045

Ram: 16 Gbs total
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231314

What does everyone think? This is an upgrade from an old Athlon II X3 3.1ghz so I am assuming I will see significant performance increases

I currently own a Geforce 460 1gb but do not plan on upgrading until the price lowers on the 680 or if I can find another 460 to SLI.
 

MrBig

Member
I'm not really sure what just happened. I went through the process of overclocking two days, ago, found a stable voltage and ran Prime95 for 12 hours without any problems. The computer ran perfectly yesterday, then today I boot it up and it fails to boot to windows or freezes immediately after getting to the desktop 3 times in a row. I double checked the settings and nothing was different. I changed the settings back to factory default, and everything is running smoothly again. I don't understand how it could go from running perfectly under a stress test for so long to not even being able to boot.

prime95 is just one test, it doesn't cover any real usage scenario

just back off on the multiplier or increase voltage a bit
 
Is there a clever backup program that can do incremental backups?

I'm sort of tired of copy and pasting crap onto my external. And I'm quite sure I have a ton of redundant files. Just looking for a good way to clean things up.
 

kharma45

Member
When is Maxwell due out?

Early 2014, it'll just be a Kepler refresh in 2013.

Nice one thanks, in that case I'll definitely be going with a 670 I think, unless there's any particular reason why the 680 justifies the extra £50 for any great reason.

Currently putting together a possible build to assemble over the course of a few months in 2013, pretty much ready for next generation. I don't have a fluent knowledge of this sort of thing (although I did build one rig before, with assistance mind) so I need to properly research these parts, but this is what I've got so far. I'd appreciate it if someone could cast a quick eye over this build and let me know if there are any dramatic oversights or reasons why this will explode as soon as I turn it on..

- PSU: 750W Antec True Power New Modular Hybrid, 80 PLUS Bronze 120mm Quiet Fan SLI/CrossFire, EPS 12V ATX v2.3, PSU
- Fan: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO, 4 Heat Pipes Direct Contact, with 120mm Quiet Fan LGA775/1155/1156/1366/AM2/AM2+/AM3/FM1
- RAM: 16GB (4x4GB) Corsair DDR3 Vengeance Low Profile Jet Black, PC3-12800 (1600), Non-ECC, CAS 9-9-9-24, XMP, 1.5V
- Motherboard: Asus P8Z68 DELUXE, Intel Z68, S 1155, DDR3, SATA III - 6Gb/s, RAID SATA, PCIe 2.0 (x16), ATX
- Hard Drive: 1TB Western Digital WD10EZRX Caviar Green, 3.5" HDD, SATA III - 6Gb/s, IntelliPower, 64MB Cache, 8ms, OEM
- CPU: Intel Core i5 2500K Unlocked, S1155, Sandy Bridge, Quad, 3.3GHz, HD3000 IGP 850Mhz, 6MB Cache 95W Retail
- DVD Drive: LiteOn IHAS124-04 24x DVD±R, 8x DVD±DL, DVD+RW x8/-RW x6, DVD-RAM x12, SATA, Black, OEM
- Case: Fractal Design Define XL Black Pearl Full Tower Performane Case USB 3.0, Fans inc 2x 140mm, 1x 180mm, 10x HDD slots
- GPU: 2GB EVGA GTX 670, 28nm, PCIe 3.0 (x16), 6008MHz GDDR5, GPU 915MHz, Boost 980MHz, Cores 1344, DL DVI, DP, HDMI+Free Games

680 isn't worth the extra outlay unless it was say £10-15, performance on the two is near identical . The only thing I can see the 680 going for it is it's Nvidia's flagship single GPU and some people just like having the top of the range card.

For the sake of £2 get the 3570K (and a Z77 mobo from the OP to go with it)
and I'd change your 670 to this.

Does it all have to come from Scan? Shopping around will be a lot cheaper, like that Amazon deal on the 3570K for instance. I'd also change to 8GB RAM unless you're doing say video work or lots of Photoshop, and this is the 8GB stuff I'd go for.

Are you looking to go SLI in the future? If not then you don't need 750w, a good solid 550w or 600w is more than plenty. For the same money you can get this 80+ Gold Seasonic or if you wanted to spend less (but you'll lose modularity) there is this Seasonic-made XFX Core 550w.

If you're spending that amount of money I'd look into an SSD too like the Samsung 830, 840 Pro, Crucial M4 or Intel 330.

Would a Corsair 750W be able to handle 2 GTX 670 and and 3570K with some overclocking?

Searching internet is giving me varying answers, some saying you need 1K, others saying it will be fine. Help please.

You'll be using roughly 420w according to this rough guide for the i7 and 670s alone, should be plenty of headroom. People saying you need 1K are cray.

What Corsair is it?

I plan on buying the following components and reuse the remainder from an old PC.

Motherboard: Overclocking capability
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128544

CPU: Unlocked
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819116504

CPU Heatsink/Fan: For overclocking
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835118003

HDD: Will be added as the boot drive
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820239045

Ram: 16 Gbs total
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231314

What does everyone think? This is an upgrade from an old Athlon II X3 3.1ghz so I am assuming I will see significant performance increases

I currently own a Geforce 460 1gb but do not plan on upgrading until the price lowers on the 680 or if I can find another 460 to SLI.

I'd probably change your cooler to a Hyper 212 to save money, it'll do just as good a job according to this thread anyway.

Also, do you really need 16GB of RAM? If you're just gaming drop to 8GB and get this stuff. If you still need 16GB for say video editing or Photoshop still get the Samsung stuff.

Also if you're getting a new GPU, go for a 670 not a 680. I'd not bother with SLI 460's, just save towards a new single GPU.

Less noise and heat, more VRAM and less hassle for drivers etc.
 
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