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"I need a New PC!" 2013 Part 2. Haswell = #IntelnoTIM, but free online. READ THE OP.
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Osiris
I permanently banned my 6 year old daughter from using the PS4 for mistakenly sending grief reports as it's too hard to watch or talk to her
GIGABYTE stuff has been great for me, no RMA's / issues.
But then I've also been fairly lucky with Sapphire stuff too.
Asus has been hit or miss, had both a bad GFX card and a bad motherboard from them in the past, but I'm sure that was just luck-of-the-draw stuff.
I've also done well with Club 3D's stuff too, solid workhorses (Although a little safe / too close to reference designs for my liking)
But then I've also been fairly lucky with Sapphire stuff too.
Asus has been hit or miss, had both a bad GFX card and a bad motherboard from them in the past, but I'm sure that was just luck-of-the-draw stuff.
I've also done well with Club 3D's stuff too, solid workhorses (Although a little safe / too close to reference designs for my liking)
Cable extenders are fine, Bitfenix makes some nice ones that don't cost too much.
The Arctic Silver will be fine. There is better stuff out now, but using that won't hurt anything. I'm still using a tube of Arctic Silver 3 on my 2550K and it did a (non-stable) 5GHz under Air.
When I ordered my pc parts at the store, they offered me the mounting of the computer as a deal to buy the GPU also there for 10€ more of the price in another store nearby as their price was 35€ higher. Since I am an hardware newb I accepted it but I wanna know if there's any advice I can give them or anything I should pay attention for when I get the computer.
It's not like I don't trust them or their experience but I just wanna have the best mounting possible for my parts. Fractal R4 owners, any special tips?
It's not like I don't trust them or their experience but I just wanna have the best mounting possible for my parts. Fractal R4 owners, any special tips?
The R4 offers a SSD spot behind the motherboard. The benefit is that it is tucked away and frees up space. You need to mount the SSD before you put the motherboard in. However, if your SSD came with a 90 degree connector it won't work. So if you want to use the space you need to use a connector that goes straight in. Alternatively you could just use the traditional mounting spot, above or below your hard drive. This is what I did as my Samsung Pro came with a 90 degree and I din't have a flat connector at the time of installation.
Other than that, there are no real tricks. It's a spacious case that should pose no problems for them.
From the OP:
$270 - ASUS VG248QE. . . . . $350 - BenQ XL2420T . .
Both are TN and both can use the LightBoost hack to give you 144Hz, which is basically CRT speed and responsiveness.
Osiris
I permanently banned my 6 year old daughter from using the PS4 for mistakenly sending grief reports as it's too hard to watch or talk to her
Tell them you want it fully cable managed. (Should not have to pay extra for this really).
If they ask you what you mean, walk away and get it somewhere else
Need a bit of help with the build. Got it all set up, but everytime I turn it on, I get a cold boot, so no bios splash screen or anything and goes off within 3-5 seconds. There is no speaker with the motherboard, and my old one was built in, so that doesn't help either. I've tried reseating the RAM and GPU and unplugging all unrequired accesories and sata drives, I even removed the GPU and tried to run through the onboard, but it still happened. The cpu cooler was tricky to fit, but it's sitting flush with the CPU, but it may be the cause, I don't know. Any thoughts? Here is a post to the specs
Osiris
I permanently banned my 6 year old daughter from using the PS4 for mistakenly sending grief reports as it's too hard to watch or talk to her
I assume you've plugged in all the motherboards power connectors? (ATX 24 pin, CPU 4 or 8 pin etc)
If so it could be a possible grounding issue, uninstall everything, unscrew the motherboard off it's tray and rescrew it back down again. do NOT screw it too hard onto the tray, just firm enough to hold it in place. Reinstall everything and try booting again.
There isn't one really. You'd be looking at the 7850 or 660, and neither is a very large improvement.
Make sure all power cables are inserted correctly, 24pin, cpu all the PCIE cables. If that doesn't help. Remove it from case see if it boots, you may have missed a stand off and its shorting against the case.
I hate that trend. If you're not including an error code LED display on the board at least include a speaker for beep codes.
As for fixing the problem, do what the other people above say.
Thanks.
I'm getting ready to build a new system, but I forgot about one thing. I have an OEM copy of Vista and an upgrade copy of Windows 7.
I can't use the OEM version on the new pc, and the windows 7 copy is upgrade only.
Is there any work around that doesn't involve me having to purchase another copy of windows?
I can't use the OEM version on the new pc, and the windows 7 copy is upgrade only.
Is there any work around that doesn't involve me having to purchase another copy of windows?
I currently have a GTX 570 with a 2500k i5 intel chip. I am running most if not all of my gaming on my 1080p television (big picture mode). However my setup is starting to crack under the pressure of newer games like tomb raider with max settings.
Would upgrading the GPU to a GTX 770 take care of this? i dont see myself playing on anything larger than 1920x1080 but i am hoping to get 60fps on the next gen launch games (watch dogs etc), at least for a while.
I'd upgrade to the 780 if i have to, its just 300 dollars more!
thoughts?
Would upgrading the GPU to a GTX 770 take care of this? i dont see myself playing on anything larger than 1920x1080 but i am hoping to get 60fps on the next gen launch games (watch dogs etc), at least for a while.
I'd upgrade to the 780 if i have to, its just 300 dollars more!
thoughts?
Yeah, I just saw this. http://winsupersite.com/article/windows-7/clean-install-windows-7-with-upgrade-media-128512
basically what you said.
Or this.
You meant 8.3ms frametimes with a 120hz panel.Know whats better than 60FPS? 60FPS with every bell and whistle turned on.
Polioliolio
Member
Hi guys,
I posted this earlier and never got a reply. Just wondering what you guys think of this build, for something that will be able to play today's games on high-ish settings, and stay relevant or even competitive for the next few years without changing anything but the video card.
(I'm thinking a gtx 660 initially but didn't include it in my parts list)
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/Zikr
Or would I just be better off going with the 'Great - Best Value' Build from the OP?
I posted this earlier and never got a reply. Just wondering what you guys think of this build, for something that will be able to play today's games on high-ish settings, and stay relevant or even competitive for the next few years without changing anything but the video card.
(I'm thinking a gtx 660 initially but didn't include it in my parts list)
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/Zikr
Or would I just be better off going with the 'Great - Best Value' Build from the OP?
The Coolermaster Hyper 212 is a better cooler for cheaper/about the same price. Can't recommend the Zalman, find them loud and underperformy - they were excellent years ago, but now they're pretty meh.
I'm sure someone else will pipe in with a better motherboard recommendation, the Extreme 4 was good when it was cheaper, but now better ones can be found for the same price.
You can save a few bucks by not getting the thermal compound and just using what comes with the coolermaster
Are you a student? You might be able to get a deal on the Windows 7 through your school.
The OP list is quite heavily curated with good price/performance/reliability equipment, it is very recommended as the basis for all builds.
Go with the build in the OP. Has a better motherboard and better PSU.
Change motherboard to MSI G45 or GD55
Oh, forgot there was a PC build thread! Posted this in the PCSX2 thread but it seems more fitting here:
I'm trying to consolidate items in my entertainment center, and I was thinking about building a PC to emulate PS2 and Wii/GCN so that I can put those consoles away or sell them. I remember reading something like PCSX2 is GPU-heavy while Dolphin is CPU-heavy...but I could be wrong.
What would be a decent build for this? Obviously I'd like to save on cost, but I also would like to play the games at the best settings, so there's a bit of a balance I want to strike.
I have a case and an HDD. I'm hoping to keep it under $700, but less is better if possible.
I'm trying to consolidate items in my entertainment center, and I was thinking about building a PC to emulate PS2 and Wii/GCN so that I can put those consoles away or sell them. I remember reading something like PCSX2 is GPU-heavy while Dolphin is CPU-heavy...but I could be wrong.
What would be a decent build for this? Obviously I'd like to save on cost, but I also would like to play the games at the best settings, so there's a bit of a balance I want to strike.
I have a case and an HDD. I'm hoping to keep it under $700, but less is better if possible.
PairOfFilthySocks
Member
450W for a GTX670 and a 2550K? If you put a 3570K in there what do you reckon would be the necessary PSU?
Also, could someone please explain what is the difference between the Asus P8Z77-I Deluxe motherboard and, say, this P8H77-I motherboard? I'm having trouble justifying the price difference. It seems the Deluxe has a wifi adapter built-in and something about "dual intelligent processors", whatever that means. Is that all that differentiates them?
The Z77 will allow you to overclock a K processor, H77 will not.
Yeah, there's a £30 difference in price between the 840 Pro and the M5S.
I'm already over budget tbh, otherwise I'd stretch further, but there's a point where stretching your budget has to stop, I'm already past that point
Price / Performance wise it's a toss-up between the M5S 128GB and Crucials M500 120GB
Another question for Define R4 / SSD owners, any heat concerns with using the SSD mounts on the back of the motherboard tray?
Samsung 840 standard. More than enough speed and warranty and saves you money
Should be on the side with the RAM. It pushed the air out the back.
Go with this processor, and this motherboard. For everything else, grab the stuff listed in the 'Great' build in the OP.
PairOfFilthySocks
Member
Ah, there's the catch. Is there a cheaper version of the Deluxe that offers that or is that the kind of price I'll be looking for a decent mobo offering that functionality?
Small stuff is expensive. You can go with other motherboards, I got the Asus because I wanted to be able to really push my overclock. The Gigabyte, ASRock and MSI options are fine. Just make sure to get a Z77. GIgabyte is the cheapest of the bunch I think.
The 3570K uses less power than the 2550K, so the 450 is fine. However - we're discovering that the PSU doesn't have enough juice to drive a Titan reliably.
ALSO - This Silverstone SFX PSU is currently the most powerful SFX PSU. Sure hoping for better options soon. The case comes with the Bronze Version, which is fine.
As a follow up to my earlier problem, I checked the power connections and they are all secure. The 8 pin to the motherboard had to be done by a 4 to 8 pin power adapter since my PSU's 2 single 4 pins were not compatible, I doubt that would cause any problems but thought I'd mention anyway. I fortunately was able to find a spare speaker in my parts drawer, I hooked it up and along with the boot loop it short beeps constantly until it powers off. Does anyone know what that would point to?
Small correction on this, the Gigabyte doesn't allow overclocking outside of modifying the Turbo to 4.2GHz. There's also no manual voltage control.
It might not be getting enough power. Those two 8 pins are compatible. Even if they are different shapes, they'll still fit.
Your motherboard manual should tell you what the beeps mean.
You might try reseating the RAM as well.
Awesome, thanks!
it doesn't matter with the 212.
You were right about the two 4 pins. Despite the different shape, I still got it in. But unfortunately, the problem persists. From what I've read, if it were cpu related, it would most likely not beep at all. So I'm pretty stumped. PSU was also working just fine before this build, and I calculated the wattage to be enough to power it. It still does it even without my 7950 in it, running from onboard.
Treemonkeys
Member
Is there any reason an antec 550w ps wouldn't be enough for a ASUS P8Z77-V LK / i5 3570K / GTX560 1GB? Only thing else it's running is a DVD drive, 1 HDD, and 3 case fans.
When I first built it it mostly wouldn't boot/booted very inconsistently. Then I pulled everything out of the case, with motherbord/CPU/RAM/GPU only (outside of the case) it booted fine. Put everything back together and it continued to run fine for about 8 hours, installed Windows 8, installed a few games, played Dota 2 for a few hours, played Neverwinter, then a few minutes later as I was just downloading WoW it locked up hard. Powered off and rebooted, it locked up hard again within less than 5 minutes. Powered it off and went to bed, the next day it wouldn't boot up again as I had originally experienced - this time it continued to not boot after I pulled the motherboard out of the case.
I'm going to RMA the motherboard, but I hope there's not something else I'm overlooking. I'm a little concerned it's my PS or my CPU has been damaged.
When I first built it it mostly wouldn't boot/booted very inconsistently. Then I pulled everything out of the case, with motherbord/CPU/RAM/GPU only (outside of the case) it booted fine. Put everything back together and it continued to run fine for about 8 hours, installed Windows 8, installed a few games, played Dota 2 for a few hours, played Neverwinter, then a few minutes later as I was just downloading WoW it locked up hard. Powered off and rebooted, it locked up hard again within less than 5 minutes. Powered it off and went to bed, the next day it wouldn't boot up again as I had originally experienced - this time it continued to not boot after I pulled the motherboard out of the case.
I'm going to RMA the motherboard, but I hope there's not something else I'm overlooking. I'm a little concerned it's my PS or my CPU has been damaged.
Osiris
I permanently banned my 6 year old daughter from using the PS4 for mistakenly sending grief reports as it's too hard to watch or talk to her
I don't understand how the heatpipes work in these situations:
http://pumpgasracing.homestead.com/Computers/Sparkplug/SPD10.jpg
Ok so the liquid inside the pipes concentrates in the bottom part of the pipes. How does that liquid come into a good contact with the processor?
Also, how does it evaporate if the processor idles at 30 and load is at 65. It doesn't turn into gas, at least not much of it. So it never reaches the further parts of the pipes, therefore, the heatsink isn't utilized.
I have no problems with my setup, but it doesn't seem to be efficient. Same with the graphics cards, the GPU contact is in the highest point, how does the liquid get there? How does it evaporate down the heatpipes?
Thank you for the information!
http://pumpgasracing.homestead.com/Computers/Sparkplug/SPD10.jpg
Ok so the liquid inside the pipes concentrates in the bottom part of the pipes. How does that liquid come into a good contact with the processor?
Also, how does it evaporate if the processor idles at 30 and load is at 65. It doesn't turn into gas, at least not much of it. So it never reaches the further parts of the pipes, therefore, the heatsink isn't utilized.
I have no problems with my setup, but it doesn't seem to be efficient. Same with the graphics cards, the GPU contact is in the highest point, how does the liquid get there? How does it evaporate down the heatpipes?
Thank you for the information!
250GB plus TLC is fine. Even with the 120GB model there is a site out there who's name escapes me that have simulated 7 years of wear on the 120GB and it has shown 0 errors so far.
The copper that the pipes are made out of is also a good conductor of heat.
Copper - good transmitter
Aluminum - good diffuser
The combo allows for efficient heat transfer. The water is just another part of the package.
It has to be CPU, Memory, or Motherboard. Most likely the memory.
Pull the RAM out, reseat it, and make sure it clicks into place, it should require a pretty high amount of force.
Also try booting with just one stick, and then just the other stick.
What PSU?
Could be a bad mobo, PSU, or memory. Try what I outlined above.
I done that already with the RAM, reseatted, one stick, same with the other and nothing. My psu is the OCZ StealthXstream II 600W. Only other ram I have is ddr2 and no other PSU, so can't test it with anything else unfortunately. Might have to cave and get it further tested at My PC shop. At least if anything needs RMA'd, I'll be able to say I've had it checked out professionally.
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