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"I need a New PC!" 2013 Part 2. Haswell = #IntelnoTIM, but free online. READ THE OP.

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A

Azulsky

Member
So looking at hires monitors apparently the U3014 actually drops all its signal processing latency in its game mode unlike all the 27'' models. That suddenly makes it pretty attractive.

Also considering i sorta templated out the screen size of the 1440p stuff im not super convinced it will even be an upgrade from a 24'' 1200p. It is basically just tacking a few inches onto each side of my current screen height.

What is the lowest price the U3014 drops to in the sales cycles?
 
K

kennah

Member
Fuck you suddenly hard to find Windows 7 Enterprise Edition.

Also fuck you 32bit only upgrade version of Windows 7.

Seriously - both of my copies of Windows are a pain to get working. Bah, was hoping to have this machine done by now.
 
T

tokyostomp

Banned
So I know i'm gonna get flamed for this but, best buy has a

4th Gen Intel® Core i5-4430 processor
12GB PC3-12800 DDR3 SDRAM
2TB Serial ATA hard drive (7200 rpm)
Intel HD Graphics 4600
Bluetooth 4.0
802.11b/g/n

I can possibly score this for 500-600 dollars before taxes. (depending on the manager I haggle with)

This this is a decent rig for a lazy gamer (too lazy to build own rig) who doesn't care about ultra settings.

I mostly plan to play indies and maybe the new saints row.

is it worth it?

also if i add in a 150-200 dedicated graphics card, will it be beast?
 
H

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
tokyostomp said:
So I know i'm gonna get flamed for this but, best buy has a

4th Gen Intel® Core i5-4430 processor
12GB PC3-12800 DDR3 SDRAM
2TB Serial ATA hard drive (7200 rpm)
Intel HD Graphics 4600
Bluetooth 4.0
802.11b/g/n

I can possibly score this for 500-600 dollars before taxes. (depending on the manager I haggle with)

This this is a decent rig for a lazy gamer (too lazy to build own rig) who doesn't care about ultra settings.

I mostly plan to play indies and maybe the new saints row.

is it worth it?

also if i add in a 150-200 dedicated graphics card, will it be beast?
Click to expand...
If it's a desktop tower, then yes just swap in a $50/$65 PSU and a $150-200 dedicated card and you will be good to go
 
K

kharma45

Member
plaidtopia said:
Ah! Good catch! Warranty recommendation would've swayed me, but that's a bonus. Thanks!
Click to expand...

Forgot to mention the EVGA warranty :p

KMD said:
Okay, ideally want to spend $1,050ish.
Click to expand...

This PSU is cheaper after rebate, save $10 here http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...-na-_-na&cm_sp=&AID=10446076&PID=3938566&SID=

ACX EVGA 760 is better, and cheaper, from NCIX http://pcpartpicker.com/part/evga-video-card-02gp42763kr

Change that RAM to low profile stuff, cheaper too http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...-na-_-na&cm_sp=&AID=10446076&PID=3938566&SID=

Samsung 840 is cheaper with Amazon http://www.amazon.com/dp/B009NHAF06/?tag=neogaf0e-20

Change your HDD to a Caviar Blue http://pcpartpicker.com/part/western-digital-internal-hard-drive-wd10ezex

Fractal Design 3000 case will also save money, still very good http://us.ncix.com/products/?usaffi...00-BL&manufacture=Fractal Design&promoid=1083

Do you really need the optical drive?
 
S

Seanspeed

Banned
plaidtopia said:
Awesome, thank you for the feedback!

Changed out the SSD, HDD, and PSU to your suggestions. Going to upgrade to a similar mid Fractal case similar to the one you ID'd. Sticking with the 760 I had ($5 difference in price, but I get the new Splinter Cell with it) and the wi-fi adapter. I'd never even heard of power-line adapters, but I wouldn't feel comfortable with that until our upcoming re-wiring is finished. And, yeah ... Blu-Ray r/w is a nice-to-have that I'll keep.

Here's the new list, in case anyone else has comments:

PCPartPicker part list

CPU: Intel Core i5-4670K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler
Motherboard: MSI Z87-G45 Gaming ATX LGA1150 Motherboard
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LP 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory
Storage: Kingston SSDNow V300 Series 120GB 2.5" Solid State Disk
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 760 2GB Video Card
Wireless Network Adapter: Rosewill RNX-N250PCe 802.11b/g/n PCI-Express x1 Wi-Fi Adapter
Case: Fractal Design Arc Midi R2 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case
Power Supply: XFX 750W 80 PLUS Bronze Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply
Optical Drive: Asus BW-12B1ST/BLK/G/AS Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer
Keyboard: Cooler Master Storm Quick Fire Pro Wired Gaming Keyboard
Mouse: SteelSeries Sensei RAW Wired Laser Mouse

Hoping to order this tonight!
Click to expand...
Before you order, change your RAM to Vengeance LP 2x4, not the 1x8.
 
A

ArynCrinn

Banned
lostsupper said:
Your "closed case water cooled system" dops your room temperature 10 degrees Celsius? Really, now.
Click to expand...

Yeah, the other night my ambient temp in my PC office was 68-70 degrees, and ambient temp on the Haswell was 12c-18c minimum under RealTemp when I just left it sitting there for an hour or so doing dishes and cleaning the kitchen. Whenever I "do something" simple in Windows like open a window or launch something small (like Nvidia CP or EVGA Precision) it'll jump up to about 22c-28c though. Not sure how good that is. Never built a system like this before.

What should my temps be for a 4.8GHz Haswell on the new Asus Sabertooth Z87 mobo, for a closed case water cooled system? I thought they were good.... Played Skyrim last night with the Jasmin ENB and a couple other mods and it none of the cores went above 51c. Is that considered high for this setup? I was going for a true ice chilled system, so I hope I didn't miss anything.

Edit: Before I go to bed (48 hours awake now) I just fired up the water cooled system. And at after Win7 login RealTemp reports temps of 18c, 21c, 20c, 16c minimum, 22c, 27c, 24c, 28c maximum all at idle while Nod32 and other things were doing stuff. At exactly 69 degrees in the office.
 
M

MrFrankFontaine

Banned
I only have limited experience in building PCs. I've only built 2 and That was over 9 years ago. Thoughts on this build:


N82E16813131821 MB ASUS|SABERTOOTH Z77 Z77 1155 R 1 239.99
N82E16827135204 DVD BRN ASUS | DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS% 1 18.99
N82E16800999306 GIFT NVIDIA SPLINTER CELL BLACKLIST 1 49.99
N82E16822236339 HDD 1T|WD WD10EZEX SATA6G % 1 69.99
N82E16835181032 WATER COOL CORSAIR | H100I R 1 109.99
N82E16817139010 PSU CORSAIR| HX750 750W RT 1 129.99
N82E16832116986 MS WIN 7 HOME SP1 64BIT 1PK - OEM 1 99.99
N82E16811998121 FAN APEVIA(ASPIRE) |120MCF12SL-UBLR 1 8.99
N82E16814130918 VGA EVGA|03G-P4-2784-KR GTX780 3GD5 1 669.99
N82E16819116504 CPU INTEL|CORE I5 3570K 3.4G 6M R 1 219.99
N82E16820147193 SSD 256G|SAMSUNG MZ-7PD256BW R 1 239.99
N82E16820233144 MEM 4Gx2|CORSAIR CMZ8GX3M2A1600C9 1 73.99
11-119-257 CASE COOLER MASTER|RC-922XM-KKN1 RT 1 $129.99


I'll only be gaming at 1080P, so I know this is over kill, but I'm hoping this build lasts for several years. Not concerned with the sticker shock as much as I'm concerned with buyers remorse once the next-gen consoles start producing exclusives that take advantage of the hardware. Thoughts?
 
A

Addnan

Member
MrFrankFontaine said:
I only have limited experience in building PCs. I've only built 2 and That was over 9 years ago. Thoughts on this build:


N82E16813131821 MB ASUS|SABERTOOTH Z77 Z77 1155 R 1 239.99
N82E16827135204 DVD BRN ASUS | DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS% 1 18.99
N82E16800999306 GIFT NVIDIA SPLINTER CELL BLACKLIST 1 49.99
N82E16822236339 HDD 1T|WD WD10EZEX SATA6G % 1 69.99
N82E16835181032 WATER COOL CORSAIR | H100I R 1 109.99
N82E16817139010 PSU CORSAIR| HX750 750W RT 1 129.99
N82E16832116986 MS WIN 7 HOME SP1 64BIT 1PK - OEM 1 99.99
N82E16811998121 FAN APEVIA(ASPIRE) |120MCF12SL-UBLR 1 8.99
N82E16814130918 VGA EVGA|03G-P4-2784-KR GTX780 3GD5 1 669.99
N82E16819116504 CPU INTEL|CORE I5 3570K 3.4G 6M R 1 219.99
N82E16820147193 SSD 256G|SAMSUNG MZ-7PD256BW R 1 239.99
N82E16820233144 MEM 4Gx2|CORSAIR CMZ8GX3M2A1600C9 1 73.99
11-119-257 CASE COOLER MASTER|RC-922XM-KKN1 RT 1 $129.99


I'll only be gaming at 1080P, so I know this is over kill, but I'm hoping this build lasts for several years. Not concerned with the sticker shock as much as I'm concerned with buyers remorse once the next-gen consoles start producing exclusives that take advantage of the hardware. Thoughts?
Click to expand...

Most of it looks fine. Although change the PSU to http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...-na-_-na&cm_sp=&AID=10446076&PID=3938566&SID= use the promo code in there. A little bit more power than you need, but its a good PSU at a great price. Then a bargain after rebate.

The motherboard is not great for it's price. Really the MSI Z77A G45 is more than enough for most. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130645 or the GD65 which is a great board I have been using for about 6 months $135 after rebate. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130643

The H100 is a little overkill, you can get a H60 or a Hyper 212 EVO, but a H100 will do if you really want it.

This build is so much more powerful than anything in the new consoles. You really don't have much to worry about in terms of whether it will be able to keep up with that.
 
longdi

longdi

Banned
imo get a 4670k rather than 3570k now that amazon is selling them for the same prices...in fact amazon has got some good prices on the h100i, cheapest it has even been at 95 bucks. :D

though something like h80i would also be good enough if you just going for 4.2-4.4ghz on haswell at 1.24v...amazon has that for 75 bucks as well!
 
L

lostsupper

Banned
ArynCrinn said:
Yeah, the other night my ambient temp in my PC office was 68-70 degrees, and ambient temp on the Haswell was 12c-18c minimum under RealTemp when I just left it sitting there for an hour or so doing dishes and cleaning the kitchen. Whenever I "do something" simple in Windows like open a window or launch something small (like Nvidia CP or EVGA Precision) it'll jump up to about 22c-28c though. Not sure how good that is. Never built a system like this before.

What should my temps be for a 4.8GHz Haswell on the new Asus Sabertooth Z87 mobo, for a closed case water cooled system? I thought they were good.... Played Skyrim last night with the Jasmin ENB and a couple other mods and it none of the cores went above 51c. Is that considered high for this setup? I was going for a true ice chilled system, so I hope I didn't miss anything.
Click to expand...

I think you're confusing "ambient" and "idle."

Your results are inconsistent with what every reputable site is getting with Haswell.
 
N

nbthedude

Member
So, a buddy of mine decided he wanted to get into PC gaming about four months ago so I helped him pick out some parts and put together his first build. Since then he has had no end of misery from this build and I'm at my wits end trying to help him get to the source his troubles.

For the first month or so, things went relatively smoothly. Then his games started locking up randomly. I had him run a virus check and we found some malware and removed it but the problem persisted. So, I had him do a a fresh OS install thinking it might be a bad version of Windows. He has tried both Windows 7 and Windows 8.1 preview now.

Weirdly, the lock up problems seemed not to initially occur when he gamed on a TV at 720p, it was only when he hooked the PC to a monitor he first had the issues. So I thought it might be a RAM problem and I had him try removing one of the sticks of RAM.

The problems seemed to go,away for a couple of days and then started to get worse thanks to Windows 8.1. Windows 8 would now frequently get caught in a viscous repair loop wherein it would boot up, say there was a problem with installation, try to repair it, fail, and reboot and then do it again.

So then I decided it might be a harddrive problem. I sent him a brand new SSD to try out cause I felt for him. It seemed to work well for a couple of days too then the problem returned with a vengeance. First his system locked up. Then the Windows Recovery stuff started again. Then it got worse, he went to turn on his system two days ago and the fans would start and about 2-4 seconds later the system would shut off.

Maybe it's a power supply problem, we thought, so he went to Best Buy to buy a cheap power supply to test that theory. The new powersupply does the same thing. The PC boots for a few seconds and then dies.

Today he is going to try to strip it down to the bare minimum and we are going to add components until we can try to sort out the problem. But I would really appreciate any suggestions.

TLDR: 4 months of hell. Lock ups and unstable Windows builds. Tried 2 Windows reinstalls. Tried a new SSD. Tried removing some RAM. Tried new power supply. Help.


Here are his specs:

Asrock Z77 Pro Revision 3 Motherboard (new)
Intel i5 3570k (used from some dude here on GAF)
Evo Hyper 212 Heatsink (new)
Saphire Radeon 7950 Boost 3GB DDR5 (new)
Corsair Vengeance 8GB (2x4) DDR3 RAM (new)
620W Seasonic M12II Power Supply (used from same GAF dude)
Phantom 410 Gunmetal Case (new)
1TB Western Digital Caviar Blue (new)
120GB Samsung 840 SSD (new)
Windows 8.1 OS


Here are a few questions:

1) What is the most likely culprit? He bought all these parts new except his processor and power supply, which we bought "slightly used" from a guy on here on Neogaf who claimed he just wanted to upgrade to better parts.


2) We didn't really check for a processor or motherboard problem. Is that a possible culprit given the symptoms? What diagnostic tools should I be looking to download to test various components and what should we look for in the results?

I feel really shitty. He spent a ton of money on this PC and just wanted to get in on PC gaming as opposed to console gaming but so far he's had almost the worst possible luck getting a stable build running. Dude just wants to play Dark Souls in peace amd so far he has gotten nothng but the worst end of PC gaming.
 
A

ArynCrinn

Banned
lostsupper said:
I think you're confusing "ambient" and "idle."

Your results are inconsistent with what every reputable site is getting with Haswell.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I probably am, when it's idle it's REALLY cold, when under any sort of load it does spike up. I updated my post you quoted, would those be normal "idle temps" for a system like this?

And when you say inconsistent, is that a good or bad thing. This was my first time putting together the Koolance Chiller and all the water cooling stuff. I'm just wondering if I'm getting the results I should be. This is what I bought.
 
A

Azulsky

Member
nbthedude said:
Story Time

Here are a few questions:

1) What is the most likely culprit? He bought all these parts new except his processor and power supply, which we bought "slightly used" from a guy on here on Neogaf who claimed he just wanted to upgrade to better parts.


2) We didn't really check for a processor or motherboard problem. Is that a possible culprit given the symptoms? What diagnostic tools should I be looking to download to test various components and what should we look for in the results?

I feel really shitty. He spent a ton of money on this PC and just wanted to get in on PC gaming as opposed to console gaming but so far he's had almost the worst possible luck getting a stable build running. Dude just wants to play Dark Souls in peace amd so far he has gotten nothng but the worst end of PC gaming.
Click to expand...

So lets try a few things.

Just check Windows Event viewer to see if it managed to log any of this activity. Sometimes it might be logging symptoms instead of the problem but it is worth checking anyway.

Memtest86, you should run this.

Try running the computer without the video card in(using the Intel HD Graphics) and see if the instability is still present. Obviously he cant play games but just see if it stands up to daily use because you were having problems wayy before gaming was involved. I would run OCCT and see what kind of behavior the machine exhibits.

Then I would blame the PSU

If you reach this point then I would still personally blame the motherboard over the CPU




Hope some of that helps. PSU failure can cause weird shit like this to happen, and the software is corrupting as a result. Motherboards do the same thing. Memory is usually a more straightforward failure like constant BSOD pain train but its always worth trying the checklist. GFX card i doubt can lock up the system like this easily but you were right to think the driver software can. Luckily with Integrated graphics you can test it pretty easily.
 
M

MrFrankFontaine

Banned
Addnan said:
This build is so much more powerful than anything in the new consoles. You really don't have much to worry about in terms of whether it will be able to keep up with that.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the feedback. I picked the sabertooth mb as I liked the extra protection over the board. I agree it's over priced, but more worried I would jack something up during build/upgrade.
 
M

MrFrankFontaine

Banned
longdi said:
imo get a 4670k rather than 3570k now that amazon is selling them for the same prices...in fact amazon has got some good prices on the h100i, cheapest it has even been at 95 bucks. :D

though something like h80i would also be good enough if you just going for 4.2-4.4ghz on haswell at 1.24v...amazon has that for 75 bucks as well!
Click to expand...

Thanks for the feedback.
 
longdi

longdi

Banned
nbthedude said:
Here are his specs:

Asrock Z77 Pro Revision 3 Motherboard (new)
Intel i5 3570k (used from some dude here on GAF)
Evo Hyper 212 Heatsink (new)
Saphire Radeon 7950 Boost 3GB DDR5 (new)
Corsair Vengeance 8GB (2x4) DDR3 RAM (new)
620W Seasonic M12II Power Supply (used from same GAF dude)
Phantom 410 Gunmetal Case (new)
1TB Western Digital Caviar Blue (new)
120GB Samsung 840 SSD (new)
Windows 8.1 OS


Here are a few questions:

1) What is the most likely culprit? He bought all these parts new except his processor and power supply, which we bought "slightly used" from a guy on here on Neogaf who claimed he just wanted to upgrade to better parts.


2) We didn't really check for a processor or motherboard problem. Is that a possible culprit given the symptoms? What diagnostic tools should I be looking to download to test various components and what should we look for in the results?

I feel really shitty. He spent a ton of money on this PC and just wanted to get in on PC gaming as opposed to console gaming but so far he's had almost the worst possible luck getting a stable build running. Dude just wants to play Dark Souls in peace amd so far he has gotten nothng but the worst end of PC gaming.
Click to expand...

did you try to reset the motherboard bios to default. maybe the some neogaf did some overclock to the settings.

another thing you could rma the cpu to Intel stating the symptoms here. usually it takes about 1 week to get a new one. Intel just needs the serial on cpu heat spreader to verify it is within the 3 years warranty.
 
S

Shaldome

Member
So first parts for my water cooling project arrived yesterday.



My main order with the rest is still not send from the shop. :/
Thought I could do this during my week off. Oh well, next week end then (I hope)
 
M

Mjunter

Member
I have a couple of questions about memory sticks. I have 2 2x2 2gb and 1 1x4 4gb G.skill ram for 8gb. They are the same spec-wise and I'm using a p8z77-v lk mb.

I want to know if this setup is fine or should I opt for another 1x4? If its alright what is the best way to put them in the dimm slots?
 
R

Raxus

Member
Any suggestions for any fans for my build. I was just going to shell out for a couple of cheap ones but I want some bang for my buck.
 
F

friday

Member
I have a monitor question for you guys. My current place is real small so I don't own a tv, I just have my desk lined up with the couch and watch Netflix on my 23 inch monitor. Would it be worth it to upgrade to a 27 inch 1080 monitor? I know it would be a big improvement for tv watching, but how does 1080 hold up on the bigger monitor?


Edit: I did not look at the post above mine. Anyways, I guess what I am asking is similar to Trouble, is the lesser pixel density noticeable at 1080 on a 27 inch monitor compared to a 23/24?
 
M

MedIC86

Member
I hope someone can help me with this:

i have an Z87 G45 and a I5 4670k,

When i install the intel chipset drivers (i tried both the msi and intel ones) my memory usage (in idle) goes up with 20%, when they are not installed its just normal mem usage. I dont think this is normal right? are there any alternatives (i also tried formatting reinstalling, same thing, also did memcheck its all good).

edit: also, all the memory that is used is in the "cache pool", or am i just stupid and this caching is a good thing?
 
N

nbthedude

Member
Azulsky said:
So lets try a few things.

Just check Windows Event viewer to see if it managed to log any of this activity. Sometimes it might be logging symptoms instead of the problem but it is worth checking anyway.

Memtest86, you should run this.

Try running the computer without the video card in(using the Intel HD Graphics) and see if the instability is still present. Obviously he cant play games but just see if it stands up to daily use because you were having problems wayy before gaming was involved. I would run OCCT and see what kind of behavior the machine exhibits.

Then I would blame the PSU

If you reach this point then I would still personally blame the motherboard over the CPU




Hope some of that helps. PSU failure can cause weird shit like this to happen, and the software is corrupting as a result. Motherboards do the same thing. Memory is usually a more straightforward failure like constant BSOD pain train but its always worth trying the checklist. GFX card i doubt can lock up the system like this easily but you were right to think the driver software can. Luckily with Integrated graphics you can test it pretty easily.
Click to expand...


There were no errors listed under the hardware tab. Here is what most recent critical/errors listed were, though.


]
System

- Provider

[ Name] ACEEventLogSource

- EventID 0

[ Qualifiers] 0

Level 4

Task 0

Keywords 0x80000000000000

- TimeCreated

[ SystemTime] 2013-08-18T17:10:43.000000000Z

EventRecordID 517

Channel ACEEventLog

Computer Matt

Security


- EventData

0000000023: 2013-08-18 12:10:43:114 Exception <Load>: Could not load file or assembly 'CLI.AIB.TutorialInfoCentre.Tutorial.Dashboard' or one of its dependencies. The system cannot find the file specified. Exception Called by: ATI.ACE.CLI.Component.Client.Shared.Private.BaseCaste::LoadAspects processID:03428 threadID:(CCCThreadNew:Dashboard) domainName:(CCC.exe ) assemblyName:(CLI.Component.Client.Shared.Private, Version=4.5.4952.33610, Culture=neutral, PublicKeyToken=90ba9c70f846762e) ************************************************************************************************************************
+ System

- Provider

[ Name] Ntfs
[ Guid] {DD70BC80-EF44-421B-8AC3-CD31DA613A4E}

EventID 55

Version 0

Level 2

Task 0

Opcode 0

Keywords 0x8000000000000000

- TimeCreated

[ SystemTime] 2013-08-15T22:42:10.330996300Z

EventRecordID 527

Correlation

- Execution

[ ProcessID] 4
[ ThreadID] 4148

Channel System

Computer Matt

- Security

[ UserID] S-1-5-18


- EventData

DriveName ??
DeviceName
CorruptionState 0x0
HeaderFlags 0x2
Severity Normal
Origin File System Driver
Verb Force Proactive Scan
Description The exact nature of the corruption is unknown. The file system structures need to be scanned online.
Signature 0xe2b3f0fb
Outcome Pseudo Verb
SampleLength 0
SampleData
SourceFile 0x12
SourceLine 3116
SourceTag 7
CallStack Ntfs+0x1281c4, Ntfs+0x98fe7, Ntfs+0xa104, ntoskrnl+0x40efd, ntoskrnl+0xe1968, ntoskrnl+0x1573c6
Click to expand...
 
N

nbthedude

Member
Question:

When using OCCT how should I configure it and what should I be looking for?

I currently have it running in infinite mode on the default tab called "CPU: OCCT"

What should it do/what should I look for to notice if something is not normal.

i5 3570k
Coolmaster 212 Heasink
Asrock Z77 Pro 4 Motherboard

Here is what it looks like currently:

occttestympht.jpg
 
A

Azulsky

Member
nbthedude said:
Question:

When using OCCT how should I configure it and what should I be looking for?

I currently have it running in infinite mode on the default tab called "CPU: OCCT"

What should it do/what should I look for to notice if something is not normal.

i5 3570k
Coolmaster 212 Heasink
Asrock Z77 Pro 4 Motherboard

Here is what it looks like currently:

occttestympht.jpg
Click to expand...

OCCT is just going to eat up your CPU capacity. So it should cause instability quicker than just waiting for it to happen.
 
H

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
nbthedude said:
Question:

When using OCCT how should I configure it and what should I be looking for?

I currently have it running in infinite mode on the default tab called "CPU: OCCT"

What should it do/what should I look for to notice if something is not normal.

i5 3570k
Coolmaster 212 Heasink
Asrock Z77 Pro 4 Motherboard

Here is what it looks like currently:

occttestympht.jpg
Click to expand...
It will stop and tell you if something goes wrong. Until then it will load the CPU and some memory.

I'd set it on Medium if not Small DATA SET as well. Sometimes temps will spike as a false report with the program so you might want to disable the maximum CPU shutoff limit.
 
N

nbthedude

Member
Azulsky said:
OCCT is just going to eat up your CPU capacity. So it should cause instability quicker than just waiting for it to happen.
Click to expand...


Ok, so if I'm understanding you, running this fr around 30min to an hour should be long enough?

Not trying to overclock. Just trying to make sure the CPU is stable so we can move on to test other things to find the problem (power supply, memory, harddrive, etc.).
 
N

nbthedude

Member
Hazaro said:
It will stop and tell you if something goes wrong. Until then it will load the CPU and some memory.

I'd set it on Medium if not Small DATA SET as well. Sometimes temps will spike as a false report with the program so you might want to disable the maximum CPU shutoff limit.
Click to expand...
So far it seems pretty stable on high settings for @ 30 minutes. If there are no abnormalties I assume I dont need to test small and medium?

Also,how big of a variation or spike am I looking for in terms of temp or voltage?

Just trying to make sure the cpu/motherboard isnt the culprit causing instabilities and lock ups.

Here is what stuff looks like at the 30 minupte mark at large data sets:

4507b1j.png
 
T

Trouble

Banned
scogoth said:
If you want pretty PB278Q, if you want competitive VG248QE. High Res or 120Hz+ pick one.
Click to expand...

I want High Res, they will be used for non-gaming a lot more than gaming.

I'm building a new SFF soon that will go between the office and the living room. So my target is ultra-high settings at 1080p/60. I'm just worried if the PB278Q will perform adequately at a non-native (1080p) resolution.

I might as well throw this out here while I'm at it. My planned build, based on the SFF build. I plan to cannabalize an SSD (and buy another for RAID-0) and Win7 from my current PC.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU: Intel Core i5-4670K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($199.99 @ Microcenter)
CPU Cooler: Corsair H100i 77.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($94.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Asus MAXIMUS VI IMPACT Mini ITX LGA1150 Motherboard ($229.75 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Mushkin Blackline 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-2133 Memory ($139.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Crucial M4 256GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($0.00)
Storage: Crucial M4 256GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($189.99 @ Microcenter)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 770 2GB Video Card ($399.99 @ Microcenter)
Case: BitFenix Prodigy (Black) Mini ITX Tower Case ($59.99 @ Microcenter)
Case Fan: BitFenix Spectre Pro LED 86.7 CFM 140mm Fan ($16.58 @ Outlet PC)
Case Fan: BitFenix Spectre Pro LED 156.3 CFM 230mm Fan ($21.98 @ Outlet PC)
Power Supply: CoolMax 600W 80 PLUS Bronze Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply ($39.99 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 (OEM) (64-bit) ($0.00)
Total: $1413.24
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-08-18 14:01 EDT-0400)
 
A

Azulsky

Member
nbthedude said:
So far it seems pretty stable on high settings for @ 30 minutes. If there are no abnormalties I assume I dont need to test small and medium?

Also,how big of a variation or spike am I looking for in terms of temp or voltage?

Just trying to make sure the cpu/motherboard isnt the culprit causing instabilities and lock ups.

Here is what stuff looks like at the 30 minute mark at large data sets:
Click to expand...

That would rule out CPU and Memory defects.

I would kinda point the Culprit at the PSU. What brand is it?
 
N

nbthedude

Member
Azulsky said:
That would rule out CPU and Memory defects.

I would kinda point the Culprit at the PSU. What brand is it?
Click to expand...

620W Seasonic M12II Power Supply (used from same GAF dude)


What is a good way to test power supply?

I see OCCT has a Power Supply test. Does that work ok or should I use something else?
 
angelic

angelic

Banned
N

nbthedude

Member
To be honest, I'm not sure what I"m looking for using OCCT for this CPU test.

Here is what it looks like after running it on High data set for one hour:

1hourp11nyxz.png


1hourp203xst.png


2013-08-18-13h31-cpuu1srv3.png


2013-08-18-13h31-volt9qqjo.png



2013-08-18-13h31-voltmfp6m.png

There are bunch more photos it gave me too if they are needed.
 
N

nbthedude

Member
Sorry to flood this thread. But any advice will be appreciated.

So, immediately after running that OCCT CPU test for 1 hour, I loaded up that program's power supply test.

The system immediately crashed. We rebooted and tried again. The test ran for about 10 seconds and crashed.

Should I assume I've found the problem? Should I try again? Are their other tests I should run?

It seems kind of weird that the 1 hour CPU test wouldn't phase it but then again, we don't yet have the videocard back in and are just using onboard video for these tests.

Edit: I tried booting the other power supply and same thing. So I assume this is just a compatibility issue (maybe with Windows 8) Any suggestions for other power suppy testing programs?
 
T

TronLight

Everybody is Mikkelsexual
I want to clean the inside of my computer, it's been a while since I've done it.

Usually I've only cleand the system's fans, but I guess it's time to clean GPU and CPU's radiators.

I'm going to buy a can of compressed air later, but anyway, any advice on how should I do it? I'd like not to remove the heatsinks, since I don't have any termal paste with me.
 
A

Azulsky

Member
nbthedude said:
Sorry to flood this thread. But any advice will be appreciated.

So, immediately after running that OCCT CPU test for 1 hour, I loaded up that program's power supply test.

The system immediately crashed. We rebooted and tried again. The test ran for about 10 seconds and crashed.

Should I assume I've found the problem? Should I try again? Are their other tests I should run?

It seems kind of weird that the 1 hour CPU test wouldn't phase it but then again, we don't yet have the videocard back in and are just using onboard video for these tests.

Edit: I tried booting the other power supply and same thing. So I assume this is just a compatibility issue (maybe with Windows 8) Any suggestions for other power suppy testing programs?
Click to expand...

Try it with the video card in.

My computer runs fine with the 1 hr test
 
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