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"I need a New PC!" 2013 Part 2. Haswell = #IntelnoTIM, but free online. READ THE OP.

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kharma45

Member
I'm looking to upgrade my processor. I have the i7-920 and I'm looking to replace it with the i7-3770K. Will I need to upgrade my motherboard to do this or should my current motherboard handle it just fine?

No, for 3770K you will need an 1155 z77 motherboard not 1150.

Have you tried overclocking your 920? The thing is still not half bad a processor.

Aye give your 920 an OC if you haven't already, it's still a very potent CPU.
 

mkenyon

Banned
Decided to pass on the GTX 780 (for now) due to impending AMD 9970 news/release, so after selling my SLI 670's, I picked up an EVGA GTX 760 with that nice ACX cooler sealed in the box for $200. Amazing that GTX 670/680 power can be had for that price.

And I guess the person that sold it to me can get me more for that price. I think I'll set up GTX 760 SLI, or even Tri-SLI (although Tri-SLI doesn't really give big gains over regular SLI).
I'd say hold out until the new hotness releases, unless you're hurting for performance. All those ACX 760s would be putting a lot of heat into your case.
 

No Love

Banned
I'd say hold out until the new hotness releases, unless you're hurting for performance. All those ACX 760s would be putting a lot of heat into your case.

Well, before yesterday I had no GPU's since I sold my 670's a couple weeks ago. I think I'll go pick up another GTX 760 for $200 and do SLI until the 9970 comes out, then pick up one or two of those. I expect AMD's new card to beat the pants off the GTX 780 and Titan.

Also, this has to be one of the coolest PC setups I've ever seen. I want it!

17.JPG
 

mkenyon

Banned
The desks are up for sale, supposed to ship in November. Spendy as all hell though!

If your only multi-card experience has been with SLI, expect to be frustrated at times with Crossfire. AMD is a lot slower than NVIDIA is with profiles, so you'll need to be creating your own custom profiles a lot more often.
 

TheExodu5

Banned
Anyone ever use DD-WRT or Tomato? Is it possible to limit max bandwidth per IP? I am thinking of paying for upgraded Internet and my roommate doesn't want to contribute, so I figured it would only be fair for me to alot myself the additional bandwidth.

My current plan is 28/1 and I'm upgrading to 45/4. So I'd like to keep 28/1 as the max upstream for all devices combined but my own. Is that possible?

Not that I want to be selfish or anything, but I'd be paying for this primarily for upstream purposes, and that won't do me much good if my roommates are torrenting and eating into the additional bandwidth.
 

No Love

Banned
The desks are up for sale, supposed to ship in November. Spendy as all hell though!

If your only multi-card experience has been with SLI, expect to be frustrated at times with Crossfire. AMD is a lot slower than NVIDIA is with profiles, so you'll need to be creating your own custom profiles a lot more often.

Yeah, it's like $1400 right? Not really worth it just to showcase a PC. But damn if it doesn't look awesome.

I've seen data on their new drivers doing great things with Crossfire, but that doesn't sound ideal. I love SLI (it works just as well as single cards from my experiences in the last two years), but perhaps the 9970 will be fast enough alone and OC'd that SLI/Crossfire will be redundant for my needs.

Anyone ever use DD-WRT or Tomato? Is it possible to limit max bandwidth per IP? I am thinking of paying for upgraded Internet and my roommate doesn't want to contribute, so I figured it would only be fair for me to alot myself the additional bandwidth.

My current plan is 28/1 and I'm upgrading to 45/4. So I'd like to keep 28/1 as the max upstream for all devices combined but my own. Is that possible?

Not that I want to be selfish or anything, but I'd be paying for this primarily for upstream purposes, and that won't do me much good if my roommates are torrenting and eating into the additional bandwidth.

Yes, I have. It's very easy to do in DD-WRT or Tomato, in fact, you wouldn't even need a guide. Just set up QoS, and give your MAC address most of the bandwidth. Set any other MAC addresses to whatever amount of bandwidth you want. :)
 
So the parts for my PC will be arriving within the week and I'm wondering about how to go about avoiding any possible static damage. I'm too stingy to get a wrist-strap and it usually pisses rain where I live so I figure static isn't too great a danger here. That said, are there any good rule-of-thumb ideas to follow? Say, grounding yourself with a radiator or something?
 

kharma45

Member
So the parts for my PC will be arriving within the week and I'm wondering about how to go about avoiding any possible static damage. I'm too stingy to get a wrist-strap and it usually pisses rain where I live so I figure static isn't too great a danger here. That said, are there any good rule-of-thumb ideas to follow? Say, grounding yourself with a radiator or something?

Ground yourself on the case and you'll be fine.
 
Well, before yesterday I had no GPU's since I sold my 670's a couple weeks ago. I think I'll go pick up another GTX 760 for $200 and do SLI until the 9970 comes out, then pick up one or two of those. I expect AMD's new card to beat the pants off the GTX 780 and Titan.

Also, this has to be one of the coolest PC setups I've ever seen. I want it!

17.JPG

Ay ay ay, why would anyone ever put an lcd monitor in portrait mode.
 

Nachtmaer

Member
So the parts for my PC will be arriving within the week and I'm wondering about how to go about avoiding any possible static damage. I'm too stingy to get a wrist-strap and it usually pisses rain where I live so I figure static isn't too great a danger here. That said, are there any good rule-of-thumb ideas to follow? Say, grounding yourself with a radiator or something?

As long as you're not rubbing fleece or touching parts you don't have to, you don't have to worry too much. You can always touch a metal tap, radiator or something else that's grounded to be sure you're discharged.
 

Trasher

Member
Hey, PC GAF. I haven't built my own computer since about 2003. Been using laptops ever since (college etc). But now it's time I get back on the PC train. Is there a popular build going around lately that would be easy to do? I'm honestly not looking for anything super high end. However, I'm not sure on whether I should go Radeon or nVidia cards, or if I should do an i5 or go with AMD. I'm not looking to break the bank either, so maybe it would make sense for me to go with the budget AMD stuff? I also can probably hold out on an SSD drive until there's like a Black Friday sale or something, so a SATA for now is fine as well as long as my mobo will enable me to upgrade to a SSD in the future. I don't play many high end games, but I would prefer to be able to run things like DotA 2, SC2, Diablo at max settings which I know isn't that difficult to do these days. So I guess I'm looking to spend somewhere around 500-600? Also, is there any reason to go with Windows 8 right now, or am I fine sticking with 7 still?



Budget: 500-600, United States
Main Use: Rate 1-5. 5 being Highest: Gaming (5)
Monitor Resolution: I need to buy a new monitor (don't include this in the above budget though)
List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: I'd prefer 60 fps (Dota 2, SC2, Diablo 3)
Looking to reuse any parts?: none
When will you build?: The sooner the better?
Will you be overclocking?: No
 

kennah

Member
Hey, PC GAF. I haven't built my own computer since about 2003. Been using laptops ever since (college etc). But now it's time I get back on the PC train. Is there a popular build going around lately that would be easy to do? I'm honestly not looking for anything super high end. However, I'm not sure on whether I should go Radeon or nVidia cards, or if I should do an i5 or go with AMD. I'm not looking to break the bank either, so maybe it would make sense for me to go with the budget AMD stuff? I also can probably hold out on an SSD drive until there's like a Black Friday sale or something, so a SATA for now is fine as well as long as my mobo will enable me to upgrade to a SSD in the future. I don't play many high end games, but I would prefer to be able to run things like DotA 2, SC2, Diablo at max settings which I know isn't that difficult to do these days. So I guess I'm looking to spend somewhere around 500-600? Also, is there any reason to go with Windows 8 right now, or am I fine sticking with 7 still?

Read the OP. Fill out the Survey.
 

kharma45

Member
Hey, PC GAF. I haven't built my own computer since about 2003. Been using laptops ever since (college etc). But now it's time I get back on the PC train. Is there a popular build going around lately that would be easy to do? I'm honestly not looking for anything super high end. However, I'm not sure on whether I should go Radeon or nVidia cards, or if I should do an i5 or go with AMD. I'm not looking to break the bank either, so maybe it would make sense for me to go with the budget AMD stuff? I also can probably hold out on an SSD drive until there's like a Black Friday sale or something, so a SATA for now is fine as well as long as my mobo will enable me to upgrade to a SSD in the future. I don't play many high end games, but I would prefer to be able to run things like DotA 2, SC2, Diablo at max settings which I know isn't that difficult to do these days. So I guess I'm looking to spend somewhere around 500-600? Also, is there any reason to go with Windows 8 right now, or am I fine sticking with 7 still?

Take a look at the builds in the OP, play around and see what you come up with, and we can scrutinize from there. For your CPU go Intel, GPU it depends on what is on offer at the time. AMD have brought back their Never Settle bundle so you get two free games with their cards from the 7800 series and above. This is an idea at the top end of your budget
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU: Intel Core i5-4430 3.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($174.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: MSI B85M-G43 Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($74.24 @ Amazon)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($58.65 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($59.99 @ NCIX US)
Video Card: Sapphire Radeon HD 7850 2GB Video Card ($158.57 @ Newegg)
Case: NZXT Source 210 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($36.98 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Antec 450W ATX12V Power Supply ($34.99 @ NCIX US)
Total: $598.41
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-08-19 15:34 EDT-0400)

7 is fine, no point buying another copy of the OS if you've already got one.
 

kennah

Member
Sorry, had it copied to paste, but posted it without. Edited now!

Most of your questions are answered in the OP...

You won't be able to do an i5 for that money unless you go used parts - there is nothing wrong with going used parts. It's easier to find a deal on a 7850 than a 650TIBOOST because the 7850 has been around longer.

No reason to go with Win 8 if you already have a copy of Win 7. The recommendation is to go with whichever you can find for cheaper.
 

Trasher

Member
Take a look at the builds in the OP, play around and see what you come up with, and we can scrutinize from there. For your CPU go Intel, GPU it depends on what is on offer at the time. AMD have brought back their Never Settle bundle so you get two free games with their cards from the 7800 series and above. This is an idea at the top end of your budget
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU: Intel Core i5-4430 3.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($174.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: MSI B85M-G43 Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($74.24 @ Amazon)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($58.65 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($59.99 @ NCIX US)
Video Card: Sapphire Radeon HD 7850 2GB Video Card ($158.57 @ Newegg)
Case: NZXT Source 210 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($36.98 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Antec 450W ATX12V Power Supply ($34.99 @ NCIX US)
Total: $598.41
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-08-19 15:34 EDT-0400)

7 is fine, no point buying another copy of the OS if you've already got one.
Okay, that's what I was wondering. Although I think my Win7 is 32bit which may be a problem?

Most of your questions are answered in the OP...

You won't be able to do an i5 for that money unless you go used parts - there is nothing wrong with going used parts. It's easier to find a deal on a 7850 than a 650TIBOOST because the 7850 has been around longer.

No reason to go with Win 8 if you already have a copy of Win 7. The recommendation is to go with whichever you can find for cheaper.
Would you say it's worth it to spend a little extra for the i5? Am I getting the most bang with my buck that way? I've heard i7s aren't worth the money currently (and I obviously understand it isn't even possible with the budget I'm looking at).

or if you don't mind used mkenyon is selling ASUS P8Z77-I motherboard (mini-ITX), Intel i5 2500K, Corsair H60 in the B/S/T thread. http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showpost.php?p=77162759&postcount=15715
Ah cool. Thanks.
 

kharma45

Member
or if you don't mind used mkenyon is selling ASUS P8Z77-I motherboard (mini-ITX), Intel i5 2500K, Corsair H60 in the B/S/T thread. http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showpost.php?p=77162759&postcount=15715

That is a good shout. Could throw this together then

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($58.65 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($59.99 @ NCIX US)
Video Card: Sapphire Radeon HD 7850 2GB Video Card ($158.57 @ Newegg)
Case: Fractal Design Node 304 Mini ITX Tower Case ($49.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: XFX 750W 80 PLUS Bronze Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply ($54.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $382.19
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-08-19 15:37 EDT-0400)

Would be a tad over budget but worth it

Okay, that's what I was wondering. Although I think my Win7 is 32bit which may be a problem?

Your key is good for both versions, just download the 64 bit ISO.
 

Trasher

Member
That is a good shout. Could throw this together then

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($58.65 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($59.99 @ NCIX US)
Video Card: Sapphire Radeon HD 7850 2GB Video Card ($158.57 @ Newegg)
Case: Fractal Design Node 304 Mini ITX Tower Case ($49.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: XFX 750W 80 PLUS Bronze Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply ($54.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $382.19
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-08-19 15:37 EDT-0400)

Would be a tad over budget but worth it



Your key is good for both versions, just download the 64 bit ISO.
That Corsair H60 is just for overclocking purposes right?
 

Trasher

Member
Not necessarily. It's quieter and takes up less room than a good air cooler.

Hmmm alright.

Kind of just want to pull the trigger on everything right now haha. I haven't assembled a computer in years! Is that H60 tricky to hook up? I've never installed one of those.
 

mkenyon

Banned
TY for above plugs :p
Hmmm alright.

Kind of just want to pull the trigger on everything right now haha. I haven't assembled a computer in years! Is that H60 tricky to hook up? I've never installed one of those.
Nope, easy as pie. Easier than most large air coolers. A total of 8 screws (four into CPU socket, four to mount the radiator to the case), a fan header for the fan, and plug the pump into power.
 

kennah

Member
Hmmm alright.

Kind of just want to pull the trigger on everything right now haha. I haven't assembled a computer in years! Is that H60 tricky to hook up? I've never installed one of those.

Nah, totally easy. It's a CLOSED LOOP cooler, meaning completely self contained - you mount it on the motherboard and then screw it to where you would put the exhaust fan.

Also - it would likely come already attached.
 

kharma45

Member
The more I look at the Node 304 the more I wants one. Cute little case.

The real question now is can I trust mkenyon?!?!

How long have you used those parts for? Just curious.

Ha yeah you can trust him, he's a good soul and will take great care of you.
 

kharma45

Member
Those parts will be super solid too. CPUs rarely, if ever, fail. That ITX motherboard is a top of the range one and the H60 is a tried and tested bit of kit.
 

Trasher

Member
The more I look at the Node 304 the more I wants one. Cute little case.



Ha yeah you can trust him, he's a good soul and will take great care of you.

There are few people you can trust more.

Half of my rig is his hand me downs.

Those parts will be super solid too. CPUs rarely, if ever, fail. That ITX motherboard is a top of the range one and the H60 is a tried and tested bit of kit.
Haha cool. Thanks, guys. :)
 

Jafku

Member
Ok I have a problem. I built a pc back in march and have been using it since. Today I unplugged it and went to blow the dust out of it. I connect it back together and now its turns on for a second then shuts down. I have no idea what to do.
Specs:
Nzxt Source 220 Case
Intel Core-i5 3470
Stock heatsink
Radeon hd 7850 1Gb
Asrock z75 Pro3 motherboard
Kingston hyperx 120gb ssd
Wd green 1.5tb
Antec BP550 psu
 

kennah

Member
Ok I have a problem. I built a pc back in march and have been using it since. Today I unplugged it and went to blow the dust out of it. I connect it back together and now its turns on for a second then shuts down. I have no idea what to do.
Specs:
Nzxt Source 220 Case
Intel Core-i5 3470
Stock heatsink
Radeon hd 7850 1Gb
Asrock z75 Pro3 motherboard
Kingston hyperx 120gb ssd
Wd green 1.5tb
Antec BP550 psu

Reseat everything. Check the connection you have between the heat sink and cpu
 

Trasher

Member
Nope, but that 750W is an amazing PSU that is currently on sale for cheaper than the 550W. Jump on it.

No, he only recommended because it was so cheap. I wouldn't go for it though if you are getting a Node, the cables will be a mess to deal with. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003H4QPDC/?tag=neogaf0e-20 get that.

edit: just noticed it is partially modular, so you might be fine.

Alright, thanks again. Gonna order everything now I think.

Time to lock down a monitor next! Gonna recheck the OP for that.
 

Trasher

Member
I'm excited for you. Love the Node. Almost got one before settling in on my current case.

Ha I'm excited too. I expect pics Trasher when you're finished!

Haha now I have to play the waiting game. That's always the worst part!

I'll for sure post some pics when everything is done.

Thanks again for all the replies. Like I said, I haven't built a PC in forever so I really appreciate all the help with my stupid questions. There may be more once I start putting it together too.
 
So this might be a slightly controversial question, but I'm looking at getting a new monitor. One is 1080p, the other is 1600x900. The price difference and the screen difference is trivial, so let's not count it here.

Given that I want to play things in their native resolution, is the one with the lesser resolution likely to give my graphics card an easier time?
 

Ieu

Member
An odd question - if I sold the following what'd you think I might get for it in GBP?

Core i7 920 with stock cooler
Gigabyte EX58-UD4P
3x2GB 1333Mhz Corsair XMS

Would £150 be a reasonable asking price for the set?
 
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