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"I need a New PC!" 2013 Part 2. Haswell = #IntelnoTIM, but free online. READ THE OP.

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Seanspeed

Banned

Motherboard isnt compatible. You need a 1155 socket, so a Z77 mobo. Or keep the mobo and get a 4670k processor.

Also, low profile RAM, especially if you're getting that CPU cooler. Really, Hazaro, you should put that in the OP in big, flashing letters. lol

PSU is also overkill. Get a 550 watt one.

You can also save money with the regular 840 series SSD if you want.
 

maneil99

Member
Well the H80i is till not mounted right, starting to piss me right off, temps are the same now as they were when it wasn't full making contact which means its still not making contact. Should I get them to mount the cooler first or radiator?
 
I look forward to your update. Please post back and tell us if your PSU could handle the new card.

Will do!

Anyway, I cancelled my Diamond Radeon HD 6670 1GB GDDR5 order and ordered that XFX Radeon HD 7750 1GB GDDR5 along with a DVI to VGA adapter, all for less than $5 more than the other card cost me (thanks to some Amazon credit). It should be here on Wednesday.

Hope it works. If not, I might be able to get another power supply or even another computer from my dad's work place. They bought the building along with everything in it, and there were a bunch of computers there that they're going to give away. We're supposed to get one at some point, but I don't know when. I think they're all Pentium D's and Athlon 64 X2's, but I'm not sure, as I didn't get to really check them all out.
 

mkenyon

Banned
Well the H80i is till not mounted right, starting to piss me right off, temps are the same now as they were when it wasn't full making contact which means its still not making contact. Should I get them to mount the cooler first or radiator?
Is the pump plugged into the motherboard,or into straight power? I'll bet money its on a voltage adjustible motherboard header, and it's not getting full power.
 

Coldsnap

Member
The more i research about 120/144 Hz monitors the more I am saddened by lack of a genuine IPS option.

I feel super uneasy about ordering a monitor from SK that l have to win the silicon lottery to actually get what i want.

The other option being a 1080 24'' TN screen where you lose the color reproduction of the IPS.

Just need a 1200 or 1440p 120Hz IPS + Lightboost Monitor.

I have a feeling that the benefits will really only show in shooters, and that I would appreciate the IPS for strategy games more (CoH 2, Rome 2)

Lightboost messes with gama and color so much there's really no reason to stress about accurate colors if you're going to use it.
 
All this monitor talk made me realize that my dell LCD is near 7 years old now. That's the longest I've gone without a monitor upgrade. My previous two monitors were CRT's and got them within a 3 year span. This is the only computer part I've been neglecting. What would you guys recommended that's in the 20" to 22" range that isn't too pricey?
 

maneil99

Member
Is the pump plugged into the motherboard,or into straight power? I'll bet money its on a voltage adjustible motherboard header, and it's not getting full power.

I don't think its that because when I removed the H80i there was no TIM in the middle of the CPU which means its not connecting well
 
Ambient temps can be misleading anyway, but mine range from 22-26c across all cores when OCed. Except my new closed case water cooled system that gets down to 12c-18c ambient.

At stock, a H80i (which I have no experience with) hitting 68c under full load sounds about right. Ambient 17c is really good and probably normal for stock speeds. And also remember that you can often achieve better cooling results with air cooling sometimes depending on the chip and if the cold plate on the Hydro is seated properly. There are some crazy air coolers out there (Noctua, Phanteks, Dark Rock Pro) that all compete quite nicely with top water coolers for at least in-game loads.

Your "closed case water cooled system" dops your room temperature 10 degrees Celsius? Really, now.
 

Haly

One day I realized that sadness is just another word for not enough coffee.
Motherboard isnt compatible. You need a 1155 socket, so a Z77 mobo. Or keep the mobo and get a 4670k processor.

Also, low profile RAM, especially if you're getting that CPU cooler. Really, Hazaro, you should put that in the OP in big, flashing letters. lol

PSU is also overkill. Get a 550 watt one.

You can also save money with the regular 840 series SSD if you want.

Ah, I see. The PSU is already bought, it's a part I have lying around that I'm not using.

I'll change everything else though, thanks!

Quick question: If I'm not looking to overclock but heat is still an issue (it will be in a room with inadequate air conditioning), should I go with Ivy or Haswell?
 
Getting ready to build my first gaming-specific PC. This thread's been very helpful already and I think I've got something that works, but I'm hoping you guys might be able to spot any mistakes I've made:

PCPartPicker part list

CPU: Intel Core i5-4670K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler
Motherboard: MSI Z87-G45 Gaming ATX LGA1150 Motherboard
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LP 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory
Storage: Sandisk Extreme 120GB 2.5" Solid State Disk
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 760 2GB Video Card
Wireless Network Adapter: Rosewill RNX-N250PCe 802.11b/g/n PCI-Express x1 Wi-Fi Adapter
Case: BitFenix Shinobi ATX Mid Tower Case
Power Supply: XFX 550W 80 PLUS Bronze Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply
Optical Drive: Asus BW-12B1ST/BLK/G/AS Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer
Keyboard: Cooler Master Storm Quick Fire Pro Wired Gaming Keyboard
Mouse: SteelSeries Sensei RAW Wired Laser Mouse

I've traditionally been a console gamer, but PS4/Xbone don't excite. As such, I want something that'll kill current-gen stuff and get me a few years into the next console cycle, at the least. Thanks in advance!
 

kharma45

Member
Getting ready to build my first gaming-specific PC. This thread's been very helpful already and I think I've got something that works, but I'm hoping you guys might be able to spot any mistakes I've made:

PCPartPicker part list

CPU: Intel Core i5-4670K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler
Motherboard: MSI Z87-G45 Gaming ATX LGA1150 Motherboard
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LP 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory
Storage: Sandisk Extreme 120GB 2.5" Solid State Disk
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 760 2GB Video Card
Wireless Network Adapter: Rosewill RNX-N250PCe 802.11b/g/n PCI-Express x1 Wi-Fi Adapter
Case: BitFenix Shinobi ATX Mid Tower Case
Power Supply: XFX 550W 80 PLUS Bronze Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply
Optical Drive: Asus BW-12B1ST/BLK/G/AS Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer
Keyboard: Cooler Master Storm Quick Fire Pro Wired Gaming Keyboard
Mouse: SteelSeries Sensei RAW Wired Laser Mouse

I've traditionally been a console gamer, but PS4/Xbone don't excite. As such, I want something that'll kill current-gen stuff and get me a few years into the next console cycle, at the least. Thanks in advance!

Change SSD to http://pcpartpicker.com/part/kingston-internal-hard-drive-sv300s37a120g or http://pcpartpicker.com/part/kingston-internal-hard-drive-sv300s37a120g

Change HDD http://pcpartpicker.com/part/western-digital-internal-hard-drive-wd10ezex

EVGA 760 is cheaper if you want to save some cash but still get an excellent one http://pcpartpicker.com/part/evga-video-card-02gp42763kr

Change your PSU to this. Overkill by a huge margin but the same price after rebate and modular too http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...-na-_-na&cm_sp=&AID=10446076&PID=3938566&SID=

For your case consider the Fractal Design Core 3000 as another option http://pcpartpicker.com/part/fractal-design-case-fdcacore3000bl and http://pcpartpicker.com/part/fractal-design-case-fdcacore3000usb3bl

Do you really need an optical drive? Considered powerline adapters for your internet needs?
 

Sub_Level

wants to fuck an Asian grill.
My first gaming PC part just came in the mail. It was based off of a suggestion from this very thread!

9531722133_68625391f3_c.jpg


The journey begins.
 

Azulsky

Member
All this monitor talk made me realize that my dell LCD is near 7 years old now. That's the longest I've gone without a monitor upgrade. My previous two monitors were CRT's and got them within a 3 year span. This is the only computer part I've been neglecting. What would you guys recommended that's in the 20" to 22" range that isn't too pricey?

Thats pretty much the exact reason I am thinking about it too.( I have a 2407 Ultrasharp).

It refuses to die.

I think I might just go with an 2713H or HM depending on how much of sale the former is on when i pull the trigger.

The depressing part about it all is that 27'' 16:9 monitors are not much taller if at all vs 16:10 24'' monitors.

And the U30xx has less pixel density so I have ruled that out.

Asus had a Pro Art 27'' at trade shows this year but nothing about specs or release date.

Maybe I should sell a kidney and get the 31.5'' 4k Asus monitor
 

Anustart

Member
Bah, my build is sitting at 1,181$ and I'd really like to spend 1,050 :/

How can I downgrade any part when they were hand picked by me and each is special?!?!

One way to save 50 would be to get a 660 instead of a 760. How much of a performance drop is that?
 

Azulsky

Member
Bah, my build is sitting at 1,181$ and I'd really like to spend 1,050 :/

How can I downgrade any part when they were hand picked by me and each is special?!?!

One way to save 50 would be to get a 660 instead of a 760. How much of a performance drop is that?

Give us the list, or did you already and am I blind!?
 

kharma45

Member
Bah, my build is sitting at 1,181$ and I'd really like to spend 1,050 :/

How can I downgrade any part when they were hand picked by me and each is special?!?!

One way to save 50 would be to get a 660 instead of a 760. How much of a performance drop is that?

It's a fairly decent drop. What parts have you picked?
 

kennah

Member
Bah, my build is sitting at 1,181$ and I'd really like to spend 1,050 :/

How can I downgrade any part when they were hand picked by me and each is special?!?!

One way to save 50 would be to get a 660 instead of a 760. How much of a performance drop is that?
Huge. Don't do it. Keep the 760.

Edit: Also I'm currently $1,200 in to my $600 upgrade.
 

mrklaw

MrArseFace
Bah, my build is sitting at 1,181$ and I'd really like to spend 1,050 :/

How can I downgrade any part when they were hand picked by me and each is special?!?!

One way to save 50 would be to get a 660 instead of a 760. How much of a performance drop is that?

Is there small stuff you can drop and add in incrementally later on? Eg drop a third party cooler and go OEM for a while, bit less ram, forego an SSD? or drop the CPU down a class. I'd be tempted to try and hold on to the 760
 

Azulsky

Member
Any suggestions for the CPU cooler? Fans?

I can easily upgrade to the EVO and 4770k but I don't plan on overclocking so I dunno if it is worth it.

Another vote for the EVO here. They are newer and thus the controller is smarter and more well rounded. If you use the rapid software then you will get sick transfer speeds. I think it was about the same price as the regular 840 anyway.

Just stick with a 4770 then. Save the 30 bucks and buy a game instead. There is not a massive performance gap here. It is probably 10% max, or about $30 bucks worth, and that is after you overclock it. Plus you need extra cooling to make it livable at higher clock frequencies and vcore.
 

Azulsky

Member
eh you have to make a public wish list then send that link.

Can you put it together on pcpartpicker.com? Pick Newegg as your merchant so it gets the prices right.

Or you could just screencap it and paste the uploaded link here
 

kennah

Member
You might be boned. Not much in there to trim. You could get a cheaper monitor I guess, but that would mean you're just buying another one later.

Just get the SSD for now and worry about the mechanical later. (Yeah, I said it)
 

Anustart

Member
You might be boned. Not much in there to trim. You could get a cheaper monitor I guess, but that would mean you're just buying another one later.

Just get the SSD for now and worry about the mechanical later. (Yeah, I said it)

That actually could be an option :/ I'm working off an 80gb hard drive right now...
 

Azulsky

Member
You are going to drop a performance tier somewhere if you want to cut costs. That is pretty much as lean as it can get.

I agree with Kennah, if you want to save money drop the hdd or ssd
 

Anton668

Member
Okay, ideally want to spend $1,050ish.

does everything have to be from newegg?

do you have a Microcenter anywhere close? Or maybe somebody who could snag deals for you?

Does the WD have to be a black? How about blue?

Maybe lose the optical drive?

has anyone ever dealt with Outlet PC?

maybe find a lil less expensive ram perhaps?

cuz....

bLS8fvz.png


http://pcpartpicker.com/p/1t9An

less expensive ram brings it down to $1070. and without a optic drive, down to $1050
 

Azulsky

Member
Yeah i saw this too.

You can cut $5ish on the video card probably by dropping down 1 model(and still keeping the ACX cooler)

There is a GSKILL kit on newegg that is about $10 cheaper than the Corsair was. Adata is cheaper than that but I dont feel safe recommending it because I have never used them as a brand or heard anything about them.
 
Change SSD to http://pcpartpicker.com/part/kingston-internal-hard-drive-sv300s37a120g or http://pcpartpicker.com/part/kingston-internal-hard-drive-sv300s37a120g

Change HDD http://pcpartpicker.com/part/western-digital-internal-hard-drive-wd10ezex

EVGA 760 is cheaper if you want to save some cash but still get an excellent one http://pcpartpicker.com/part/evga-video-card-02gp42763kr

Change your PSU to this. Overkill by a huge margin but the same price after rebate and modular too http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...-na-_-na&cm_sp=&AID=10446076&PID=3938566&SID=

For your case consider the Fractal Design Core 3000 as another option http://pcpartpicker.com/part/fractal-design-case-fdcacore3000bl and http://pcpartpicker.com/part/fractal-design-case-fdcacore3000usb3bl

Do you really need an optical drive? Considered powerline adapters for your internet needs?

Awesome, thank you for the feedback!

Changed out the SSD, HDD, and PSU to your suggestions. Going to upgrade to a similar mid Fractal case similar to the one you ID'd. Sticking with the 760 I had ($5 difference in price, but I get the new Splinter Cell with it) and the wi-fi adapter. I'd never even heard of power-line adapters, but I wouldn't feel comfortable with that until our upcoming re-wiring is finished. And, yeah ... Blu-Ray r/w is a nice-to-have that I'll keep.

Here's the new list, in case anyone else has comments:

PCPartPicker part list

CPU: Intel Core i5-4670K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler
Motherboard: MSI Z87-G45 Gaming ATX LGA1150 Motherboard
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LP 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory
Storage: Kingston SSDNow V300 Series 120GB 2.5" Solid State Disk
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 760 2GB Video Card
Wireless Network Adapter: Rosewill RNX-N250PCe 802.11b/g/n PCI-Express x1 Wi-Fi Adapter
Case: Fractal Design Arc Midi R2 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case
Power Supply: XFX 750W 80 PLUS Bronze Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply
Optical Drive: Asus BW-12B1ST/BLK/G/AS Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer
Keyboard: Cooler Master Storm Quick Fire Pro Wired Gaming Keyboard
Mouse: SteelSeries Sensei RAW Wired Laser Mouse

Hoping to order this tonight!
 

maneil99

Member
Awesome, thank you for the feedback!

Changed out the SSD, HDD, and PSU to your suggestions. Going to upgrade to a similar mid Fractal case similar to the one you ID'd. Sticking with the 760 I had ($5 difference in price, but I get the new Splinter Cell with it) and the wi-fi adapter. I'd never even heard of power-line adapters, but I wouldn't feel comfortable with that until our upcoming re-wiring is finished. And, yeah ... Blu-Ray r/w is a nice-to-have that I'll keep.

Here's the new list, in case anyone else has comments:

PCPartPicker part list

CPU: Intel Core i5-4670K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler
Motherboard: MSI Z87-G45 Gaming ATX LGA1150 Motherboard
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LP 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory
Storage: Kingston SSDNow V300 Series 120GB 2.5" Solid State Disk
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 760 2GB Video Card
Wireless Network Adapter: Rosewill RNX-N250PCe 802.11b/g/n PCI-Express x1 Wi-Fi Adapter
Case: Fractal Design Arc Midi R2 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case
Power Supply: XFX 750W 80 PLUS Bronze Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply
Optical Drive: Asus BW-12B1ST/BLK/G/AS Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer
Keyboard: Cooler Master Storm Quick Fire Pro Wired Gaming Keyboard
Mouse: SteelSeries Sensei RAW Wired Laser Mouse

Hoping to order this tonight!

Go with EVGA, you get still get a free copy of splinter cell along with primal carnage .

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...-na-_-na&cm_sp=&AID=10446076&PID=3938566&SID=

They have the best warranty and RMA for nvidia gpus
 

Anustart

Member
does everything have to be from newegg?

do you have a Microcenter anywhere close? Or maybe somebody who could snag deals for you?

Does the WD have to be a black? How about blue?

Maybe lose the optical drive?

has anyone ever dealt with Outlet PC?

maybe find a lil less expensive ram perhaps?

cuz....

bLS8fvz.png


http://pcpartpicker.com/p/1t9An

less expensive ram brings it down to $1070. and without a optic drive, down to $1050

Closest Microcenter is in St. Louis I believe, 3 hour drive from me. Not everything needs to be from Newegg, and those savings you found are perfect! I'm not dead set on the ram, and I'm actually trying to figure out if I need an optical.
 

Anton668

Member
Closest Microcenter is in St. Louis I believe, 3 hour drive from me. Not everything needs to be from Newegg, and those savings you found are perfect! I'm not dead set on the ram, and I'm actually trying to figure out if I need an optical.

CORSAIR Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model CMZ8GX3M2A1600C9R $56.99

http://pcpartpicker.com/user/Anton668/saved/2c6P

yeah, Microcenter needs to open more stores!!!!!!

and you can always buy optic drive in the future if you really find you cant live without it. finding $20 down the road is hella easier than $1000+
 
I'm looking at getting a 4850 for about NZ$100. So think, competitively, 60 bucks. Will it be worth it? I am getting an old i5 and it has a 7200 in it. I just wanna be able to play things like Deus Ex and stuff; don't need it to pump out the pretties.
 

kennah

Member
I'm looking at getting a 4850 for about NZ$100. So think, competitively, 60 bucks. Will it be worth it? I am getting an old i5 and it has a 7200 in it. I just wanna be able to play things like Deus Ex and stuff; don't need it to pump out the pretties.
Don't waste your time on a 4850. A 6670 or a 7770 would be much better.
 
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