I'd say sell your 560 Ti for $100 or more while you can.
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"I need a New PC!" 2013 Part 2. Haswell = #IntelnoTIM, but free online. READ THE OP.
- Thread starter Hazaro
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I'd say sell your 560 Ti for $100 or more while you can.
So it will pull in air through holes in the case which is not what you want obviously. If there are no holes in the case the air will simply not move much after a few seconds since the pressure differential alone does not garantee airflow as you should realize.
You don't say. The device through which a watercooling loop transfers its heat (via forced convection) from the water to the air is called a radiator. I guess it is a bit confusing, but then again I didn't invent the term myself.
However transfering less heat will mean that the temperature in your loop will rise. The reason why is pretty simple: The heat that is being put into the loop is determined by the CPU/GPU. So if you keep putting, say, 300W of heat into the water your cooling will need to dissipate this somehow. Now heat dissipation is roughly proportional to the cooling surface area and temperature difference (assuming constant flowrates etc). So either you increase the cooling surface or you increase the temperature at which the heat is dissipated, the last of which results in higher temperatures.
Still that last sentence makes me think you're just trollin it up, so maybe this is all for nothing
.After downloading Speccy, I noticed it said I was running in single channel RAM. After switching it round inside my PC, it's saying Dual Channel now. Hopefully that'll fix it.
Total noob looking for a new gaming PC (my Republic of Gamers laptop just died). As I don't need a laptop anymore (LANs are over :'|), I am looking for a good desktop machine that can deal with, for example, The Witcher 2 (and 3) 60fps if possible.
So first, the questions:
- Your Current Specs: Dead and I don't remember. It was an Asus G60J though.
- Budget: Around $800 in the US.
- Main Use: Gaming.
- Monitor Resolution: 22" 1680x1050
- When will you build? within 4 weeks.
- Will you be overclocking? Nop
And my build so far (Haswell):
- CPU: i5 4670K 4C/4T @3.4
- Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z87-D3HP (need USB 3.0 anyway)
- RAM: 2x4GB (8GB)
- Graphics: GTX 760 2GB
- Storage: WD Blue WD5000AAKX 500GB should be enough.
- Power Supply: 550W I would guess. Let me know if i'm wrong.
- Case: I have no idea at all... I want something quiet that will cool enough everything... Am I suppose to look for something special or any case should be fine?
- Optical Drive: Nop
- Heatsink: -
- Sound Card: -
- SSD: Maybe 128GB if not too expensive, but not for now.
Total: $781
And now I need your opinion... Thanks.
So first, the questions:
- Your Current Specs: Dead and I don't remember. It was an Asus G60J though.
- Budget: Around $800 in the US.
- Main Use: Gaming.
- Monitor Resolution: 22" 1680x1050
- When will you build? within 4 weeks.
- Will you be overclocking? Nop
And my build so far (Haswell):
- CPU: i5 4670K 4C/4T @3.4
- Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z87-D3HP (need USB 3.0 anyway)
- RAM: 2x4GB (8GB)
- Graphics: GTX 760 2GB
- Storage: WD Blue WD5000AAKX 500GB should be enough.
- Power Supply: 550W I would guess. Let me know if i'm wrong.
- Case: I have no idea at all... I want something quiet that will cool enough everything... Am I suppose to look for something special or any case should be fine?
- Optical Drive: Nop
- Heatsink: -
- Sound Card: -
- SSD: Maybe 128GB if not too expensive, but not for now.
Total: $781
And now I need your opinion... Thanks.
Read the OP for specific case and power supply recommendations. Everyone loves the Fractal R4 for good reasons.
Find the money for an SSD. It will change your life.
Thanks, think I'm going to go with the Node - just to stick with Fractal's build quality (great support too, they sent me a new front panel mount free of charge when I broke mine). Will pass on the noise dampening, combined with Haswell, it's probably a recipe for a fire.
Surprisingly, my 670 (Gigabyte Windforce) is mostly silent when I'm working, which is when it matters (I use headphones when gaming).
Has Asus announced when the Maximus VI Impact will ship? Do they have any predictable schedule?
Eaten By A Grue
Member
Arrrg ARMA 3 is crushing my new GTX 770. Its always ARMA games that put a damper on my new video card parades every time. I am getting 30fps at Ultra settings and 60 fps at High settings.
Great choice. I want one so bad but have no real use for it.
I'm sure it will ship "soon"
I have completed overclocking my PC; I aimed to push my CPU (I7-920) to around 3.6-3.8 ghz. But I have a question about stress testing. I have *never* done this before, so I am a little scared of leaving my PC alone overnight as Prime95 tortures it. What should I exactly look out for? Is there a certain temperature I should look for while the system stress tested itself? Is it common for a stress test to bump the temp over 90 degrees?
I just started the test a few minutes ago, and it has averaged around 76 thus far. Sorry for asking some possibly silly and dumb questions. I don't want to end up having a dead I7 920 because I chose not to ask for some help!
I just started the test a few minutes ago, and it has averaged around 76 thus far. Sorry for asking some possibly silly and dumb questions. I don't want to end up having a dead I7 920 because I chose not to ask for some help!
Is the 840 good? I was looking at the OCZ Agility 4 which is only about 20 more than the 840. Or does the differences between them not matter or is not noticable for gaming?
I'm not necessarily guaranteed on it yet, but I'm thinking more about switching to PC gaming(for a while at least). I'm moving overseas very soon and will need a new computer, so I figured it might be a good time to throw a little extra money at it, get something that can play games and then maybe look at a next-gen console in two to three years when the prices have come down instead of getting a bottom-o-the-line PC(like I always do)now along with a PS4 this holiday season.
My budget would ideally be something along the lines of $600-800. The cheaper the better. I'm not trying to break the bank or get extravagant. But if I'm forgoing a PS4, I'll need something that's decent still and will remain viable for new games a couple years down the line. So:
- Is it worth going from an i3 dual core to an i5 quad core CPU? In the recommendations in the OP, its only a $50 increase. Is this something that would benefit a lot with the coming generation of games, particularly console ports?
- I'm looking at the Radeon HD 7850 as it seems pretty powerful at a dern reasonable price, but do I really need the 2GB version? The current plan would be to play on an HDTV, so I wouldn't be playing at any super high resolutions or anything. Is the price difference just that negligible that its worth going 2GB anyways?
- I'm big into sound and music and where I'm moving, I'll probably have to do much of my gaming/listening on a headset/headphones. I plan on getting a decent pair(nothing super crazy, just something respectable). Will I want a dedicated sound card? I'm not an audiophile or anything, I just don't want a good pair of headphones to go to waste with some crappy onboard sound system.
Obviously, prices in the UK wont be the same as here, but I'd still like to go in with some decent idea of what I'm looking at. Thanks for any help.
My budget would ideally be something along the lines of $600-800. The cheaper the better. I'm not trying to break the bank or get extravagant. But if I'm forgoing a PS4, I'll need something that's decent still and will remain viable for new games a couple years down the line. So:
- Is it worth going from an i3 dual core to an i5 quad core CPU? In the recommendations in the OP, its only a $50 increase. Is this something that would benefit a lot with the coming generation of games, particularly console ports?
- I'm looking at the Radeon HD 7850 as it seems pretty powerful at a dern reasonable price, but do I really need the 2GB version? The current plan would be to play on an HDTV, so I wouldn't be playing at any super high resolutions or anything. Is the price difference just that negligible that its worth going 2GB anyways?
- I'm big into sound and music and where I'm moving, I'll probably have to do much of my gaming/listening on a headset/headphones. I plan on getting a decent pair(nothing super crazy, just something respectable). Will I want a dedicated sound card? I'm not an audiophile or anything, I just don't want a good pair of headphones to go to waste with some crappy onboard sound system.
Obviously, prices in the UK wont be the same as here, but I'd still like to go in with some decent idea of what I'm looking at. Thanks for any help.
1. Yes, the i5 would have longer legs due to the quad core + the ability to over clock.
2. The way things are going you're looking at 2gig as the minimum amount of ram you want to have moving forward.
3. Your best bet would be a good pair of USB headphones.
4. If you're moving around a lot, a Small Form Factor build is recommended. They're as powerful as 'normal' computers these days.
2. The way things are going you're looking at 2gig as the minimum amount of ram you want to have moving forward.
3. Your best bet would be a good pair of USB headphones.
4. If you're moving around a lot, a Small Form Factor build is recommended. They're as powerful as 'normal' computers these days.
Cool, I'll go with the 840 then. I have a 128GB Samsung 830 as my main system drive and haven't had any problem so far, was just that I had heard some mixed things about the 840.
Looks like bad hardware, likely RAM. Depending on when the bad sector gets hid, random basic OS shit won't work. That's probably what you're seeing.
You might see a change on when that bad sector gets hit with dual channel, but it still could be there. Run memtest for a few hours.
Ok, thanks. That's decided, then.
I'm pretty sure I can find a decent pair of headphones, but what I'm concerned with is whether I'm going to want a dedicated sound card to go with it.
Also, I don't move around a lot. This is a permanent move. I'd love a small PC anyways, but it would undoubtedly knock me well over what I'd like to spend.
Infinite Justice
Member
550W should be good for that (I have a rough ivy bridge equivalent of this and my 550W is doing well), check the OP for recommended PSUs (Antec BP550, Seasonic G 550 are some great choices).
Check the OP for a case list and choose the one you like but if you really want a choice the Fractal Define R4 is a favorite in this thread (it has sound dampening material too so it will be quieter than usual).
Also imho GET A SSD no ifs ands or buts, seriously.
I suggested a USB set because it doesn't need a dedicated sound card. One less thing to buy.
Cool for the rest!
theytookourjobz
Junior Member
Hooked up new new msi 660s and tried a few games. Running just one was marginally better than my 6870 but in SLI they crushed everything I tried. Some pretty awful stuttering in Hitman and Sleeping Dogs though... Unplayable for sure. Witcher 2, Skyrim, and few others were fine but these might be going back to newegg.
One less part for my computer, but that would still require a DAC headphone amp, right? So I'd still be buying something extra. I'm only looking at maybe $100-150 for a pair of headphones, if that. I don't need anything high-end.
subtleglitch
Neo Member
I was just wondering if anyone had purchased a Corsair Obsidian 900D Super Tower case, and if so, do you like it? Would you recommend it, or is there something else out there of similar quality?
I'm really stuck on what sort of chassis to purchase for my next pc build, and I was considering a full tower case, unless people advise otherwise and suggest a better mid tower case with nicer features?
Cheers
I'm really stuck on what sort of chassis to purchase for my next pc build, and I was considering a full tower case, unless people advise otherwise and suggest a better mid tower case with nicer features?
Cheers
So it will pull in air through holes in the case which is not what you want obviously. If there are no holes in the case the air will simply not move much after a few seconds since the pressure differential alone does not garantee airflow as you should realize.
You don't say. The device through which a watercooling loop transfers its heat (via forced convection) from the water to the air is called a radiator. I guess it is a bit confusing, but then again I didn't invent the term myself.
However transfering less heat will mean that the temperature in your loop will rise. The reason why is pretty simple: The heat that is being put into the loop is determined by the CPU/GPU. So if you keep putting, say, 300W of heat into the water your cooling will need to dissipate this somehow. Now heat dissipation is roughly proportional to the cooling surface area and temperature difference (assuming constant flowrates etc). So either you increase the cooling surface or you increase the temperature at which the heat is dissipated, the last of which results in higher temperatures.
Still that last sentence makes me think you're just trollin it up, so maybe this is all for nothing
1) Cases are not airtight. Most cases don't have 100% of their vents covered, either. There are always places for air to be pulled in. You just won't have a very clear air path which can lead to stagnation and turbulence.
2) I thought you were talking about surface area at the water/card interface, not the radiator. I definitely agree that increasing the surface area of the radiator will decrease temps. Radiating surface is something you typically see when talking about surface volumes around a black body, so I thought you were trying to say radiation was playing a role in this somehow. This part looks like a misunderstanding.
Hey guys so I have been racking my brain all night on this, I am doing a RAID0 install fresh of Windows 7 64bit edition. My mobo is P8Z77-I Deluxe. I have setup up my raid within the bios menu and have created a new raid using the intel tool. I went through the installation of windows 7 after that but when I go to select my Raid driver provided for me by ASUS for x64 windows 7 I get an error "To continue installation, use the Load Driver option to install 32-bit and signed 64-bit drivers. Installing an unsigned 64-bit device driver is not supported and migt result in an unusable Windows installation" I have tried everything from this point alternate versions of the driver the 32-bit driver tried to hack the driver to think it was signed I can't find a solution. Anybody else with this issue I know this board is recommended so I am hoping somebody knows the solution here.
LOL. You're missing what I'm telling you. A good USB headset doesn't need any of that, it handles all the DAC internally. No internal sound card, no external sound card.
Unless you're wanting a set of headphones that will also work in an iPod or phone or something. Then you would need something (though I would recommend just trying with the Onboard sound first, most motherboards are in the 'just fine' category anyway.)
Try the new beta drives. Could be related to 320.18
charlequin
Banned
What constitutes a "good USB headset"? My understanding was that your price/performance on sound quality for headsets was going to be much, much worse than proper dedicated headphones and Seanspeed's looking to listen to music.
You shouldn't need to install any raid drivers. Just select the drive when asked where you want to install during the Windows setup.
Amazon UK is doing a 7950 for £208.39 if anyone in Europe is in the market for one. http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00BBKO65S/
The Henery
Member
Not sure if this is the right place to ask but does anybody have any thoughts on the best free anti virus software available? Something that doesn't slow down the computer too much.
Also I saw Kaspersky was £20 half price. Would that be decent less resource-intensive paid option? Thanks
Also I saw Kaspersky was £20 half price. Would that be decent less resource-intensive paid option? Thanks
Osiris
I permanently banned my 6 year old daughter from using the PS4 for mistakenly sending grief reports as it's too hard to watch or talk to her
I would so jump on that if it wasn't for the 7950's noise level compared to MSI's GTX 760 - 10dB difference is a lot when building for a silent running rig.
Great performance / cost for those that don't care about it though.
Crimsonclaw111
Member
The new GTX 760s look really, really appealing for the price. MSI dropped the blue design though, a shame:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814127745
Now my already purchased RAM and future mobo will not match the GPU listed. Oh well.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814127745
Now my already purchased RAM and future mobo will not match the GPU listed. Oh well.
You can go with Gigabyte, its mostly black, but I think it might have some blue on it.
Kamakazie!
Member
So can someone tell me the best CPU / Mobo / RAM combo to get for Adobe Lighroom & Gaming use?
- mITX preferrable but will take mATX suggestions
- UK based
- £450 max budget but preferably closer to the £380-£400 range
Thanks!
- mITX preferrable but will take mATX suggestions
- UK based
- £450 max budget but preferably closer to the £380-£400 range
Thanks!
TheThunder
Member
So I've finally went ahead and stopped being a coward and OC'ed my CPU using this guide
I got 4.5GHz on 1.280v manual Vcore and it seems to be stable (4 hours, no crashes or errors). This is using Prime95 custom settings found in this guide in the OP
Now, using the same guide I used to OC to try and figure out how to switch to Offset mode but so far I've been unsuccessful. Using the (manual Vcore - VID) method I get either 0.045 or 0.035 as an offset but both didn't work since the voltage only goes up to about 1.250v under load which causes Prime95 either to crash or one of the workers will stop working.
I'm back to manual mode for now, any tips/guidelines to how it actually supposed to work ?
My motherboard is an Asus P8Z77-V LK btw.
I got 4.5GHz on 1.280v manual Vcore and it seems to be stable (4 hours, no crashes or errors). This is using Prime95 custom settings found in this guide in the OP
Now, using the same guide I used to OC to try and figure out how to switch to Offset mode but so far I've been unsuccessful. Using the (manual Vcore - VID) method I get either 0.045 or 0.035 as an offset but both didn't work since the voltage only goes up to about 1.250v under load which causes Prime95 either to crash or one of the workers will stop working.
I'm back to manual mode for now, any tips/guidelines to how it actually supposed to work ?
My motherboard is an Asus P8Z77-V LK btw.
You're probably best with an APU if you're wanting to game. Lightroom is presently wholly CPU dependent which would make me say go for something like an i3 3225 but you'll be limited then when it comes to games. The HD4000 isn't terrible but there is a lot better. I tried getting a system together with the i3 and a dedicated GPU but it came out at near £480 or so.
I'll try and get a few things together now.
Kamakazie!
Member
Cheers kharma. Don't worry about the APU / GPU though.
My 8800 will suffice for a few months then I'll plump for one of the next gen cards.
The budget here is solely for the CPU / Mobo / RAM.
Osiris
I permanently banned my 6 year old daughter from using the PS4 for mistakenly sending grief reports as it's too hard to watch or talk to her
Mobo: Gigabyte Z77X-DH3 - £105.68
CPU: Intel Core i7-3770K - £259.34
RAM: Corsair 8GB Vengeance 1600 - £53.97
Total: £418.99
Edit: Removed GPU build, saw your reply above
Increase the offset number until you hit 1.28V or more. Another way, some settings, like LLC, add more voltages the higher the settings you use under CPU load. Going this route could lead to you to using a smaller offset number and still reach 1.28V under load.
PoweredBySoy
Banned
Finally got all of the fans in my Arc Midi R2 last night, and despite this case pushing much more cfm, my cpu temps have gone up noticeably (6-7C), and I'm now pushing 80C. As in my old Lian Li, I'm running a Scythe Ninja 2 passively. I think the problem though is that this Fractal case is just a little bit bigger, and the exhaust fans are now about 1.5 inches further away from the heat sink. I guess that distance makes all the difference in the world. So I may have to pick up a new heatsink and join you peasants in the realm of active air cooling.
In that case go for what Osiris said but change the RAM away from that stupidly tall Corsair stuff to this http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B005G9C4K4/
Depending on what case you're using too you could get a cooler to OC as well.
Roland1979
Junior Member
Arma is very CPU intensive. It's probably your CPU, not your GPU.
Osiris
I permanently banned my 6 year old daughter from using the PS4 for mistakenly sending grief reports as it's too hard to watch or talk to her
Damn, I looked for the CL9 stuff earlier and swear I couldn't see it on there, checked my basket and noticed I had added the Low Profile CL10 stuff to my build by mistake, your post just put up my build by £5 haha :/ (But thanks, well spotted!
)Good job I shaved £8 off my build earlier by swapping out the H80i for the H90 cooler.
I decided that I don't want the extra Corsair Link / Colour LED features of the i-series coolers adding a possible failure point to the cooling, but the H60 2013 is still a little too low on the cooling performance for my liking, I wouldn't mind hitting 4.5Ghz if I can, sorry mkeynon
I'm running a sli 670 setup, and the ARMA 3 alpha ran far better. I had to downgrade to HIGH to get 60 fps again. This is a massive letdown and i'm kind of pissed off, to be honest.
Something weird is happening, Hitman and Sleeping ran flawlessly on my 670 sli setup. Are you running the beta drivers?
theytookourjobz
Junior Member
Messed around with Sleeping Dogs this morning some more. If I turn off vsync the problem goes away but I get pretty bad tearing. The best option so far is to turn the settings to high and disable vsync and use adaptive vsync in the nvidia control panel.
And yea, I'm using the latest beta drivers. Should I roll back to the previous ones?
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