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"I need a New PC!" 2013 Part 2. Haswell = #IntelnoTIM, but free online. READ THE OP.

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vertopci

Member
Just ask for an advanced RMA, they will ship it to you first

I didn't even know such a thing existed. I'll check with them on that option then. Thanks for heads up!

edit: MSI may not offer advanced RMA... :(

edit2: maybe they do...? I'll have to just call them tomorrow
 

mandiller

Member
When is the Nvidia GTX 800 series due out? Do you expect there to be a sizeable tech boost over the 700 series? I'm looking at a 770 to replace my 570, but I can wait til next year if something good is coming out.
 

K.Jack

Knowledge is power, guard it well
How big do you guys expect next-gen ports to be, on average? The thought of 25GB and up is completely realistic, right?

My finger is hovering over the buy button on this Crucial M500 960GB....
When is the Nvidia GTX 800 series due out? Do you expect there to be a sizeable tech boost over the 700 series? I'm looking at a 770 to replace my 570, but I can wait til next year if something good is coming out.

If it's 20nm, the jump in performance will be huge. Spring/Summer is realistic.
 

TheD

The Detective
Hmm. I will only emulate Playstation 2 which I believed would be quite good at the stock clock of that CPU (as i've gotten the impression that it's less demanding than Dolphin). I'd guess the air flow would only be an issue if I used an overclocked 3570K/4670K and a beefier gpu than a 7850.

A Prodigy/Node 304 would cost 40$ extra, a 3570k would cost 25-30$ extra and a z77 mobo would cost 50$ extra which would end up something like 115-120$ extra. Plus I would probably have to get better cooling as well so it adds up quite a bit. I'm a student with a limited budget and very limited space (24sqm) so i'd prefer a computer that's as small and cheap as possible.

I will need to look into different PCSX2 system requirements though. Perhaps moving to Haswell as kharma45 suggested would be better as it would be slightly cheaper at least.
That is incorrect, PCSX2 is much more demanding than Dolphin.
 

maneil99

Member
How big do you guys expect next-gen ports to be, on average? The thought of 25GB and up is completely realistic, right?

My finger is hovering over the buy button on this Crucial M500 960GB....


If it's 20nm, the jump in performance will be huge. Spring/Summer is realistic.

Huge is a weird word to use, expect 30 % increase. ie 580-680
 

Croc

Banned
okay

I don't know shit about computers

but I've been reading this thread/other stuff and tried my best to understand stuff, and came up with this

http://pcpartpicker.com/p/1wId4

I already have a case, monitor, and kb/m

I may toss out the SSD to cut down cost a lot but...I've heard they make a world of difference so I'm kind of hesitant to do so

any way I can cut down the cost on that while keeping about the same performance?

any other tips or suggestions?
 

TJ Bennett

TJ Hooker
I need help, GAF! The PC I built this weekend doesn't work quite yet. The fan on the cpu and the 3 fans within the case all turn on. The light on my motherboard is lit up. There is power to both my hard drive and my dvd drive. None of the ports on the back of the motherboard seems to function (monitor says no signal, neither keyboard or mouse show signs of life when plugged in).

Here's a list of my parts along with a few pics. I plan on cleaning up the wires once I know that everything is in place. Many thanks!

Memory: G. Skill Ares Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
Video Card: Sapphire Radeon HD 7850 2GB Video Card
Case: Fractal Design Core 3000 USB 3.0 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case
Power Supply: Antec Basiq Plus 550W 80 PLUS Certified ATX12V Power Supply
Monitor: Asus VS228 22" Monitor
CPU: Intel i5-4670k
Motherboard: MSI Z87-G45

PC1.jpg

PC2.jpg

PC3.jpg
 

BizzyBum

Member
I OC'd my 3570K to 4.5GHz at 1.250 voltage. I'm using a Noctua NH-D14. My idle temps are just below 30C and with multiple gaming sessions hasn't gone above 60C, Could I get this up to 5.0GHz with good temps you think? If so, what is recommended voltage?
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
I OC'd my 3570K to 4.5GHz at 1.250 voltage. I'm using a Noctua NH-D14. My idle temps are just below 30C and with multiple gaming sessions hasn't gone above 60C, Could I get this up to 5.0GHz with good temps you think? If so, what is recommended voltage?
4.5 to 5.0 is a giant leap. 4.5 to 4.7 is a huge leap.
60C gaming sessions are probably 70C+ stress load so it's up to you how much you want to push it. Voltage you can technically go up to 1.4V+ 'safely' but advised to stay under 1.35V if you can.

You'll run into heat issues before volts become an issue.
I need help, GAF! The PC I built this weekend doesn't work quite yet. The fan on the cpu and the 3 fans within the case all turn on. The light on my motherboard is lit up. There is power to both my hard drive and my dvd drive. None of the ports on the back of the motherboard seems to function (monitor says no signal, neither keyboard or mouse show signs of life when plugged in).
I troubleshot this exact problem a few days ago.

Reseat your CPU and RAM and see if it works. Usually I'd suggest a slew of other common things first, but give it a shot.
 

BizzyBum

Member
4.5 to 5.0 is a giant leap. 4.5 to 4.7 is a huge leap.
60C gaming sessions are probably 70C+ stress load so it's up to you how much you want to push it. Voltage you can technically go up to 1.4V+ 'safely' but advised to stay under 1.35V if you can.

You'll run into heat issues before volts become an issue.

Is 4.5 to 5.0 even worth it? Would it raise my FPS in games further and be noticeable?

If it's a very small gain then might as well just stay at 4.5 with good temps.
 

TheD

The Detective
I need help, GAF! The PC I built this weekend doesn't work quite yet. The fan on the cpu and the 3 fans within the case all turn on. The light on my motherboard is lit up. There is power to both my hard drive and my dvd drive. None of the ports on the back of the motherboard seems to function (monitor says no signal, neither keyboard or mouse show signs of life when plugged in).

Here's a list of my parts along with a few pics. I plan on cleaning up the wires once I know that everything is in place. Many thanks!

Memory: G. Skill Ares Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
Video Card: Sapphire Radeon HD 7850 2GB Video Card
Case: Fractal Design Core 3000 USB 3.0 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case
Power Supply: Antec Basiq Plus 550W 80 PLUS Certified ATX12V Power Supply
Monitor: Asus VS228 22" Monitor
CPU: Intel i5-4670k
Motherboard: MSI Z87-G45

PC1.jpg

PC2.jpg

PC3.jpg

Try resetting the CMOS?
 

TJ Bennett

TJ Hooker
I troubleshot this exact problem a few days ago.

Reseat your CPU and RAM and see if it works. Usually I'd suggest a slew of other common things first, but give it a shot.

I reseated the CPU and RAM. Still the same problems.

Try resetting the CMOS?

I pulled out the battery, shorted it for 5 seconds, and placed it back into place. Still the same problems.

I should also note that after the computer boots, it stays on for 10 seconds or so before restarting. After that it stays on.

Thank you everyone for the help!
 
Is 4.5 to 5.0 even worth it? Would it raise my FPS in games further and be noticeable?

If it's a very small gain then might as well just stay at 4.5 with good temps.

I doubt it would make a noticeable difference in games. Video encoding and other intensive CPU stuff, probably, but games are rarely CPU bound these days.

I have a 2500K pushed to 4.4GHz, and I didn't bother pushing it further since the minor performance boost wasn't worth the temperature rise in my mind.
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
Is 4.5 to 5.0 even worth it? Would it raise my FPS in games further and be noticeable?

If it's a very small gain then might as well just stay at 4.5 with good temps.
It's less about FPS gain (FPS is an inaccurate measurement (see the OP NEWS)) and more about lowering the time it takes for most frames to be rendered and smoothing out your experience.
I reseated the CPU and RAM. Still the same problems.



I pulled out the battery, shorted it for 5 seconds, and placed it back into place. Still the same problems.

I should also note that after the computer boots, it stays on for 10 seconds or so before restarting. After that it stays on.

Thank you everyone for the help!
That might be different, although 10 seems too long.
Is it the regular double boot that some boards use to double check OC settings? Tons of ASUS boards used to do that. I'm not sure if they still do this, I know mine does (Z77 ASUS Gene). Those are usually much shorter than 10s though.

I'd plug and replug all your power connectors which is the only thing short of trying it outside of the case.
Might be some BIOS setting for fast boot as well which could be doing it?
 

Trasher

Member
DRAM LED is on. Sometimes it flashes, sometimes it just stays completely solid. Tried hitting the MEMOk! button a couple times. What else could it be? I was told my RAM was compatible so I don't think it's that either. Monitor and USBs are all unresponsive. Mouse and keyboard don't even show power.
 

Sora2k7

Member
DRAM LED is on. Sometimes it flashes, sometimes it just stays completely solid. Tried hitting the MEMOk! button a couple times. What else could it be? I was told my RAM was compatible so I don't think it's that either. Monitor and USBs are all unresponsive. Mouse and keyboard don't even show power.

try reseating the RAM and if that does not work try just one stick
 

TJ Bennett

TJ Hooker
That might be different, although 10 seems too long.
Is it the regular double boot that some boards use to double check OC settings? Tons of ASUS boards used to do that. I'm not sure if they still do this, I know mine does (Z77 ASUS Gene). Those are usually much shorter than 10s though.

I'd plug and replug all your power connectors which is the only thing short of trying it outside of the case.
Might be some BIOS setting for fast boot as well which could be doing it?

I just unplugged ever power connector and replugged them in. Still the same result. I was way off on the time though. It stays on for about 25 seconds before restarting, not 10 seconds like I stated earlier.

I also tried booting with just one stick of RAM in slot 2 and got the same result.

Thanks for the assistance, Hazaro!
 

Trasher

Member
try reseating the RAM and if that does not work try just one stick

Yeah I've already tried that. That's the only tip out there apparently. That's all anyone ever says with this problem. =/

Here's my RAM: G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model F3-12800CL9D-8GBXL

Mobo: ASUS P8Z77-I motherboard (mini-ITX)

Found this on a forum, but it does me no good because I can't get to the BIOS:

Here a the pertinent steps, and the last one is what got me up and running.

I inserted 1 of my four 4GB sticks into the A2 slot and was able to get into the bios.

Installed the OS and flashed the BIOS to its latest revision 2103... Still not working

Checked the RAM settings and noticed the the auto-setting had me at 1333MHz, but my chips are rated at 1600MHz. I manually set the frequency to 1600MHz and all four chips are now working! I am going back in to ensure all of my timings are correct, but wanted to get this post out there to help others caught in this quagmire.
 

Sora2k7

Member
Yeah I've already tried that. That's the only tip out there apparently. That's all anyone ever says with this problem. =/

Here's my RAM: G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model F3-12800CL9D-8GBXL

Mobo: ASUS P8Z77-I motherboard (mini-ITX)

Found this on a forum, but it does me no good because I can't get to the BIOS:

probably not the problem but check the manual to make sure that the RAM is in the correct slots (some MBs are picky)
 

Trasher

Member
Alright got the light off trying that one stick of RAM thing a couple more times. Keyboard and mouse are all working. Still no signal though on the monitor. Should I be plugging into my graphics card DVI or into the mobo DVI?
 

Addnan

Member

Not worth it when you can get a 670 for just a little bit more. http://www.scan.co.uk/products/free...ie-30-(x16)-6008mhz-gddr5-gpu-980mhz-boost-10

Alright got the light off trying that one stick of RAM thing a couple more times. Keyboard and mouse are all working. Still no signal though on the monitor. Should I be plugging into my graphics card DVI or into the mobo DVI?
graphcs, but try both to rule out an issue with the graphics. Try reseating the card if it is the problem and make sure all the power cables are hooked up.
 

Addnan

Member
http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B008A1C252/

How about this one? Doesn;t come with the free games though from the looks of things :(

It's decent enough, but you live in mainland UK by the looks of your profile and most of the 670 from Scan is free delivery by the looks of it. http://www.scan.co.uk/products/2gb-...-(x16)-6008mhz-gddr5-gpu-941mhz-boost-1019mhz This is a little cheaper, but lower clock speeds and has the 2x fans. The 670 compares to the 7950 it's actually a little better that 7950 and early on it was going up against the 7970 still is in some instances. If for some reason you can only shop from Amazon then sure, but I can't really recommend at that price range outside of the 670 right now.

If you must stick with Amazon and get the 7870 stick with MSI, Sapphire, Gigabyte. Asus as far as I know has really long warranty process from the UK.

edit: That 7950 is good, but the 670 at cheaper price outperforms it in most cases
 
It's decent enough, but you live in mainland UK by the looks of your profile and most of the 670 from Scan is free delivery by the looks of it. http://www.scan.co.uk/products/2gb-...-(x16)-6008mhz-gddr5-gpu-941mhz-boost-1019mhz This is a little cheaper, but lower clock speeds and has the 2x fans. The 670 compares to the 7950 it's actually a little better that 7950 and early on it was going up against the 7970 still is in some instances. If for some reason you can only shop from Amazon then sure, but I can't really recommend at that price range outside of the 670 right now.

If you must stick with Amazon and get the 7870 stick with MSI, Sapphire, Gigabyte. Asus as far as I know has really long warranty process from the UK.

edit: That 7950 is good, but the 670 at cheaper price outperforms it in most cases

Cheers. How about this Sapphire with the 3 free games?

http://www.scan.co.uk/products/3gb-...pu-830mhz-1792-cores-dl-dvi-i-hdmi-2x-mini-dp

I've been relatively comfortable just taking kharma's advice with all the other components, these GPUs are doing my head in a bit though, especially with the 2 competitors and upcoming new standards

In layman's terms, what is a Titan?
 
I'd guess the air flow would only be an issue if I used an overclocked 3570K/4670K and a beefier gpu than a 7850.
I used to run an i5 2400 and a fricking GTX 460 in an Elite 120 case and the fans had to work overtime to keep all of it cool. I tried a lot to improve the airflow, but It's just not a very good case for even mid-range gaming components. If you really want to make a decent case out of it, factor in a low-profile CPU cooler (CM Geminii) and an SFX PSU (Silverstone 450W). Boom, it's not cheap anymore.

I know you don't have much space, but get a narrow mATX case like the Fractal Arc Mini and set it on the floor. You probably want to have the Elite 120 on your desk because it's cute and saves some space, but having that thing near your ears isn't a good idea at stock cooling.
Sorry for the hyperbole, but I was hugely disappointed with my 120 and I don't think it's what it's cracked up to be at all.
If you go with a Haswell CPU, a decent mATX non-overclocking rig would be something like this:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU: Intel Core i5-4570 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($189.02 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-B85M-D3H Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($79.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: G.Skill Ares Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($55.25 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($59.99 @ NCIX US)
Case: Fractal Design Arc Mini MicroATX Mini Tower Case ($49.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: XFX 550W 80 PLUS Bronze Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply ($61.24 @ Amazon)
Total: $495.48
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-08-27 04:44 EDT-0400)

And if you want to OC (helps with emulation!):

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU: Intel Core i5-4670K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($228.99 @ NCIX US)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($29.99 @ Microcenter)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z87M-D3H 1.0 Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($114.98 @ Outlet PC)
Memory: G.Skill Ares Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($55.25 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($59.99 @ NCIX US)
Case: Fractal Design Arc Mini MicroATX Mini Tower Case ($49.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: XFX 550W 80 PLUS Bronze Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply ($61.24 @ Amazon)
Total: $600.43
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-08-27 04:46 EDT-0400)

Plus your second hand 7850/7870, obviously.
 

kharma45

Member
Cheers. How about this Sapphire with the 3 free games?

http://www.scan.co.uk/products/3gb-...pu-830mhz-1792-cores-dl-dvi-i-hdmi-2x-mini-dp

I've been relatively comfortable just taking kharma's advice with all the other components, these GPUs are doing my head in a bit though, especially with the 2 competitors and upcoming new standards

In layman's terms, what is a Titan?

Poor cooler on that one.

Titan is the fastest single GPU on the market, costs close to a grand. Poor value next to a 780.
 
Poor cooler on that one.

Titan is the fastest single GPU on the market, costs close to a grand. Poor value next to a 780.

I see, was wondering why there was only one fan on it. Does that make it susceptible to overheating, loudness and eventual manfunctioning?

Would anything ever run hot enough to warp the material?

Think I'll hold off on a Titan for now :p

Are GPUs the main thing to upgrade incrementally as standards rise? Do the rest of my components give me a good chance of being able to keep up (to a reasonable degree) by doing that?


edit: Is this definitely the CPU I want? Will order it today if so :)
 

Trasher

Member
Alright. So I formatted a USB drive with the Windows 7 ISO. That all seemed to go fine. Then I went into BIOS and told it to boot with the USB. So, this first time, it boots up and goes through the "Loading Windows files" or whatever, and then it freezes when the Windows logo appears and animates on the normal start up screen. Waited a while and reset it to try again. This time it does the same thing except instead of freezing it gives me the blue screen of death. Tried it a couple more times with the same result. Any ideas?
 
I just wanted to preface this by saying thanks to everyone keeping this thread going; especially Hazaro. I had not built a PC in years; so this guide was a huge help.

When I was collecting the parts for my build; I had no gaf account. I was just approved now; so posting my parts is more for feedback; but it's too late to alter it at this point:

  • BitFenix Prodigy
  • Intel Core i5-4670K - Socket LGA1150, 3.4Ghz
  • ASUS ROG MAXIMUS VI IMPACT Socket 1150 Intel Z87
  • G.Skill 16GB (2 x 8GB PC3-12800 1600MHz DDR3 RAM - 10-10-10-30) - RipjawsX Series
  • Seasonic Platinum-660 Fully Modular 80PLUS 660W PSU
  • MSI GeForce GTX 770 Twin Frozr 3 2GB GDDR5
  • Samsung 840 Series 120GB 2.5" SATA 6Gb/s SSD
  • Corsair Hydro Series H60 2013 Liquid CPU Cooler
  • ASUS (DRW-24B3ST)
  • WD10EZEX 1TB
  • Microsoft Windows 8 64-Bit English OEM

Cheers!
 

Trasher

Member
Alright. So I formatted a USB drive with the Windows 7 ISO. That all seemed to go fine. Then I went into BIOS and told it to boot with the USB. So, this first time, it boots up and goes through the "Loading Windows files" or whatever, and then it freezes when the Windows logo appears and animates on the normal start up screen. Waited a while and reset it to try again. This time it does the same thing except instead of freezing it gives me the blue screen of death. Tried it a couple more times with the same result. Any ideas?

So I took out a stick of RAM, rebooted, and now it worked. lol

Time to sleep though. Been going at this for almost 7 hours straight now. I'm so close!
 
Still well within that original budget of yours ;)

I seemingly have about £475 left for the SSD, GPU and OS, but I'm not sure how that happened. Don't think any of the components I've bought have been much less expensive than the ones originally planned, or have had big discounts between you making the list for me, and me ordering them. That's with an added £15 for the network adaptor as well :p

Is there a table that shows what Nvidia card is roughly equivalent to what AMD card?

edit:

Like the look of this mouse

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Sharkoon-Fir...ds=roccat+kova

Any impressions?
 

kharma45

Member
I seemingly have about £475 left for the SSD, GPU and OS, but I'm not sure how that happened. Don't think any of the components I've bought have been much less expensive than the ones originally planned, or have had big discounts between you making the list for me, and me ordering them. That's with an added £15 for the network adaptor as well :p

Is there a table that shows what Nvidia card is roughly equivalent to what AMD card?

edit:

Like the look of this mouse

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Sharkoon-Fir...ds=roccat+kova

Any impressions?

Toms Hardware has a GPU hierarchy chart iirc. Anandbench gives a rough comparison between two.

basically its similar to this atm

7850 - 660
7870 - 660 ti
7950 - 670 - 760
7970 - 680 - 770

780 and Titan are in a class of their own. AMD does a 7990 too but its a dual GPU card like the 690.
 

Addnan

Member
I just wanted to preface this by saying thanks to everyone keeping this thread going; especially Hazaro. I had not built a PC in years; so this guide was a huge help.

When I was collecting the parts for my build; I had no gaf account. I was just approved now; so posting my parts is more for feedback; but it's too late to alter it at this point:

  • BitFenix Prodigy
  • Intel Core i5-4670K - Socket LGA1150, 3.4Ghz
  • ASUS ROG MAXIMUS VI IMPACT Socket 1150 Intel Z87
  • G.Skill 16GB (2 x 8GB PC3-12800 1600MHz DDR3 RAM - 10-10-10-30) - RipjawsX Series
  • Seasonic Platinum-660 Fully Modular 80PLUS 660W PSU
  • MSI GeForce GTX 770 Twin Frozr 3 2GB GDDR5
  • Samsung 840 Series 120GB 2.5" SATA 6Gb/s SSD
  • Corsair Hydro Series H60 2013 Liquid CPU Cooler
  • ASUS (DRW-24B3ST)
  • WD10EZEX 1TB
  • Microsoft Windows 8 64-Bit English OEM

Cheers!

Only get 16GB if you do computer heavy stuff other than gaming. 8GB is already more than you need for gaming. Change the PSU, the Seasonic platinum is fine, but it is one of their older units. If you want to go with high end Seasonic for it's silence get the x650. If not then then the Seasonic G series 550W will be perfect for that build.
 
Toms Hardware has a GPU hierarchy chart iirc. Anandbench gives a rough comparison between two.

basically its similar to this atm

7850 - 660
7870 - 660 ti
7950 - 670 - 760
7970 - 680 - 770

780 and Titan are in a class of their own. AMD does a 7990 too but its a dual GPU card like the 690.

Cheers

7950/670 dual-fan is my best option right? (preferably the former for the games)
 
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