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"I need a New PC!" 2013 Part 2. Haswell = #IntelnoTIM, but free online. READ THE OP.

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Trasher

Member
Dammit. My old Windows key I got from uni doesn't work anymore apparently. When I looked it up I got the "BBBBB-BBBBB...etc" key. I thought the university ones were supposed to stay good?
 

Seanspeed

Banned
http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B007N6HS3G/ Get that if you want good sensor, comfort levels are decent too.

DPI is how sensitive the mouse is when you move it (dots per inch)
So if I play games, shooters especially, with very low sensitivity settings, I should avoid high DPI mouses?

I'm looking at some right now too, and I would preferably like something with:

- At least one or two extra programmable buttons
- Good/comfortable with palm grip
- Not too tacky/game-y looking
- Less than £30
 

Arulan

Member
So if I play games, shooters especially, with very low sensitivity settings, I should avoid high DPI mouses?

I'm looking at some right now too, and I would preferably like something with:

- At least one or two extra programmable buttons
- Good/comfortable with palm grip
- Not too tacky/game-y looking
- Less than £30

The Logitech G400 is among the best mice you can buy, and it's one of the few with a "perfect sensor". You shouldn't need anything more than 800 DPI.
 
So if I play games, shooters especially, with very low sensitivity settings, I should avoid high DPI mouses?

I'm looking at some right now too, and I would preferably like something with:

- At least one or two extra programmable buttons
- Good/comfortable with palm grip
- Not too tacky/game-y looking
- Less than £30

I just took a gamble on the lower sensitivity Perixx. The higher sensitivity model looks ridiculous :D


The Wired Xbox 360 controller does work with Windows 8 doesn't it? Only lists 7 and Vista in the amazon product description
 

Addnan

Member
So if I play games, shooters especially, with very low sensitivity settings, I should avoid high DPI mouses?

I'm looking at some right now too, and I would preferably like something with:

- At least one or two extra programmable buttons
- Good/comfortable with palm grip
- Not too tacky/game-y looking
- Less than £30

Most decent mouse will allow you to adjust DPI. The steelseries can go quite low if need be. At £32 it's the only one that allows palm grip I can recommend since it's one of the few that allow all grips that I have used. It also has a couple of extra programmable buttons on the side.



The Wired Xbox 360 controller does work with Windows 8 doesn't it? Only lists 7 and Vista in the amazon product description
Works fine
 

Seanspeed

Banned
The Logitech G400 is among the best mice you can buy, and it's one of the few with a "perfect sensor". You shouldn't need anything more than 800 DPI.
A bit expensive, though.

I just took a gamble on the lower sensitivity Perixx. The higher sensitivity model looks ridiculous :D


The Wired Xbox 360 controller does work with Windows 8 doesn't it? Only lists 7 and Vista in the amazon product description
Yea, I think Windows 8 now has drivers for it.

I'm leaning towards that Perixx myself. It can be adjusted down to 500DPI. Its a *little* garish looking for my tastes, but it looks about what I need overall.

Most decent mouse will allow you to adjust DPI. The steelseries can go quite low if need be. At £32 it's the only one that allows palm grip I can recommend since it's one of the few that allow all grips that I have used. It also has a couple of extra programmable buttons on the side.
I do think this one looks better...hmm....
 
Works fine

Thanks

A bit expensive, though.


Yea, I think Windows 8 now has drivers for it.

I'm leaning towards that Perixx myself. It can be adjusted down to 500DPI. Its a *little* garish looking for my tastes, but it looks about what I need overall.


I do think this one looks better...hmm....

Official drivers right?


http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/p/1wMux

How I'm looking so far, entire setup including peripherals should end up costing me a shade over a grand. I hope to God that nothing revolutionary happens that relegates it to relic status :p
 

Addnan

Member
Worst that will happen is you will need to return it to Amazon, you can return anything within 7 days under UK law no questions and 30 days under Amazon rules. Really one year though if its broken. You will probably like the mouse though!
 

kennah

Member
Dammit. My old Windows key I got from uni doesn't work anymore apparently. When I looked it up I got the "BBBBB-BBBBB...etc" key. I thought the university ones were supposed to stay good?
Looked it up where?

The keys don't go bad but it is entirely likely that it was removed from whatever site that generated it.
 

SGRU

Member
HELP GUYS!

I have just received the parts for my new computer and there's something wrong with the CPU heat. BIOS reports 67 Celsius degrees. I'm using a Corsair H60 water cooling, how can I know if the pump is working?

I haven't put the components inside the case, maybe that's why?
 

amardilo

Member
I am looking at building my first ever gaming PC (also first full PC build, I sort of built a PC but the CPU and fan was fitted to the motherboard by someone else).

I've never had a gaming PC before so I am not sure if what I am planning on buying will last. I play pretty much all games (indie, sports sims, racers, FPS, 3rd person action and strategy games) but want a PC that is more powerful than a PS4 and will look a lot better on than the next generation of consoles.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU: Intel Core i7-4770K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor (£262.79 @ Aria PC)
CPU Cooler: Corsair H100i 77.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler (£90.96 @ Dabs)
Thermal Compound: Arctic Silver Arctic Alumina 5g Thermal Paste (£6.67 @ Amazon UK)
Motherboard: Asus Z87-WS ATX LGA1150 Motherboard (£269.15 @ Dabs)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-2133 Memory (£138.23 @ Dabs)
Storage: Corsair Neutron Series 256GB 2.5" Solid State Disk (£152.99 @ Amazon UK)
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 770 2GB Video Card (£339.99 @ Amazon UK)
Case: Fractal Design Define XL R2 (Black Pearl) ATX Full Tower Case (£99.41 @ Amazon UK)
Case Fan: Corsair Air Series AF120 Performance Edition (2-Pack) 63.5 CFM 120mm Fans (£19.34 @ Scan.co.uk)
Power Supply: Corsair 760W 80 PLUS Platinum Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply (£125.97 @ Dabs)
Optical Drive: Asus BW-12B1ST/BLK/G/AS Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer (£76.61 @ Amazon UK)
Total: £1582.11
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-08-27 13:54 BST+0100)

I already have Windows 8 (as part of my MSDN subscription) and a 2nd hard drive (1.5TB WD Green) for storing games and I have a 23" 1080p monitor (as well as a cheap Microsoft Mouse but will need a keyboard too).

This PC is at the very top of my budget but is this any good to play the next generation of games such as Watch Dogs and Battlefield 4 and whatever will come out in the next 3 years and still look as good as the next generation systems (in truth I would like it to be a lot better than a PS4 and Xbox One)? I want to play as many games as I can at 1080p at 60fps and want it to be as quiet as possible (it will be on most of the day running iTunes as a server and downloading podcasts).

I am not planning on getting this right now but would waiting until the next console generation is out result in me being able to get something newer for the same price or will prices have gone down by then?

Also I am not planning on overclocking at first (I went for the i7-4770K as I understand the K at the end of the name means it can be overclocked later). Is this something I can do later? Say in 2 years I have the cash spare could I just add another Asus GeForce GTX 770 and add that and run it in SLI for even better performance?

I also went for a i7 and 16GB of RAM (over an i5 and 8GB of RAM) because I plan to use the PC for work too (when I work I have a lot of Virtual Machines running along with Hyper-V Manager as well as several copies of Visual Studio 2012).
 

Addnan

Member
Do these overpriced workstation boards offer you something you need for your work? If not then just get MSI G45 gaming or MSI MPower at the higher end.

Yes you can overclock later. Youu don't need the extra thermal paste. The H100 comes pre applied. You can drop that down to a H80 and get a mid tower case. The full tower is really for custom loop water cooling and stuff.
 

amardilo

Member
Do these overpriced workstation boards offer you something you need for your work? If not then just get MSI G45 gaming or MSI MPower at the higher end.

Yes you can overclock later. Youu don't need the extra thermal paste. The H100 comes pre applied. You can drop that down to a H80 and get a mid tower case. The full tower is really for custom loop water cooling and stuff.

Thanks for the input.

I don't know anything about motherboards really it had Wi-Fi built in, had 6GB SATA and had a good user rating so I just clicked that one. Anything I should look for in terms of motherboards?
 

Addnan

Member
Thanks for the input.

I don't know anything about motherboards really it had Wi-Fi built in, had 6GB SATA and had a good user rating so I just clicked that one. Anything I should look for in terms of motherboards?
Just make sure it has everything you need. Haswell boards are all 6gbs SATA. Just reading up on them and seeing how they manage power to the CPU. That affects levels and stability of overclocks you will be able to get. The stuff in the OP is so far the best we can recommend.

What you should do is get a MSI G45 gaming http://www.scan.co.uk/products/msi-...-sata-raid-pcie-30-(x16)-d-sub-dvi-d-hdmi-atx or MSI Mpower Why? Because it's a sexy yellow, no other reason really. http://www.scan.co.uk/products/msi-...-sata-raid-pcie-30-(x16)-displayport-hdmi-atx

Drop the case down to a Arc Midi R2 or Define R4. http://www.scan.co.uk/products/fractal-design-arc-midi-r2-air-flow-case-black-with-window or any other mid tower that catches your fancy. Check OP for best ones.

You don't even need the H80. Quite often air coolers give as good performance as closed loop cooler. Hyper 212 is the usual recommendation http://www.scan.co.uk/products/cool...-with-120mm-quiet-fan-lga775-1155-1156-1366-a Noctua for more high end stuff, this thing is beast. http://www.scan.co.uk/products/noct...r-x6-heat-pipe-quiet-cpu-cooler-with-2-x-fans

If you get one of the air coolers go with these RAM http://www.scan.co.uk/products/16gb...ck-pc3-12800-(1600)-non-ecc-cas-10-10-10-27-x cheaper, same performance won't block the fan.

Save the money or get a better graphics card with whats left. Shop around for better prices. I just gave Scan because I find pcpartpicker finding stuff a little odd.
 

Mad Max

Member
Just get one of the gigabyte boards: UD3H or UD4H, they're much better built than the MSI gaming boards (G45/G65) but cheaper than the mpower.
 
Looking at monitors...I've ordered this one. However, this one is also available for just £5 more. Anyone know which is the better option?

Not alone that, but this monitor also appears to be cheaper, despite the "-P" version of it looking more expensive in the OP.

What say you, gaf? Stick with the one I've got, or get one of the others?
 

amardilo

Member
Just make sure it has everything you need. Haswell boards are all 6gbs SATA. Just reading up on them and seeing how they manage power to the CPU. That affects levels and stability of overclocks you will be able to get. The stuff in the OP is so far the best we can recommend.

What you should do is get a MSI G45 gaming http://www.scan.co.uk/products/msi-...-sata-raid-pcie-30-(x16)-d-sub-dvi-d-hdmi-atx or MSI Mpower Why? Because it's a sexy yellow, no other reason really. http://www.scan.co.uk/products/msi-...-sata-raid-pcie-30-(x16)-displayport-hdmi-atx

Drop the case down to a Arc Midi R2 or Define R4. http://www.scan.co.uk/products/fractal-design-arc-midi-r2-air-flow-case-black-with-window or any other mid tower that catches your fancy. Check OP for best ones.

You don't even need the H80. Quite often air coolers give as good performance as closed loop cooler. Hyper 212 is the usual recommendation http://www.scan.co.uk/products/cool...-with-120mm-quiet-fan-lga775-1155-1156-1366-a Noctua for more high end stuff, this thing is beast. http://www.scan.co.uk/products/noct...r-x6-heat-pipe-quiet-cpu-cooler-with-2-x-fans

If you get one of the air coolers go with these RAM http://www.scan.co.uk/products/16gb...ck-pc3-12800-(1600)-non-ecc-cas-10-10-10-27-x cheaper, same performance won't block the fan.

Save the money or get a better graphics card with whats left. Shop around for better prices. I just gave Scan because I find pcpartpicker finding stuff a little odd.

Just get one of the gigabyte boards: UD3H or UD4H, they're much better built than the MSI gaming boards (G45/G65) but cheaper than the mpower.

Thanks. I am going to get a Fractal Designs R4 Mid Tower case and I'll look into getting a different motherboard and cooling options (as well as RAM that doesn't take up as much room).
 
Thanks. I am going to get a Fractal Designs R4 Mid Tower case and I'll look into getting a different motherboard and cooling options (as well as RAM that doesn't take up as much room).

The H100i fits in the R4 mid, had it in there before I got the Prodigy. But the H60 should be enough, I see most people chose the H60.
 

maneil99

Member
I have some weird errors in my event log not related to OCing as I have been getting them since I switched to windows 8, here they are

NVstream (Nvidia Shield related?)
The description for Event ID 1 from source NvStreamSvc cannot be found. Either the component that raises this event is not installed on your local computer or the installation is corrupted. You can install or repair the component on the local computer.

Kernel-EventTracing
Session "" failed to start with the following error: 0xC0000011


Also it looks like my computer randomly shut down at 2:XX am today, no bsods in the bsod viewer or whea errors, could it be a overclock issue? I am testing out a lower vcore
 
Sorry I didn't respond to my streaming feedback from yesterday, because I was actually streaming. I went 7 hours for my first day. :) I was happy with the quality at 720p/60fps running @ 3500kbps. I was considering getting the Avermedia, but then I read that OBS doesn't support hardware encoding using it. I might still get the portable Avermedia for streaming the PS4 and XBox One, if it will support it.

I need a ton of things to make my stream better. First, I need a good mic. I'm using my c920 webcam mic at the moment. It's surprisingly good for a webcam mic. I have to use it since the only other mic I have is a cheap $5 logitech mic that gives out too much bad noise. Then I have to decide if I should purchase virtual audio cables or a sound mixer so that I can add more sound sources and be able to control them. A second monitor is another thing on my list. Right now I'm using a 5 year old hp laptop next to my main monitor to follow chat and the Twitch dashboard, with an option of using my ipad 3rd generation with popout chat on the Twitch app. I think what I'll do is get a 120 or 144hz monitor and move my current monitor to secondary monitor.

All the equipment talk is probably moot at this point. I'm taking this time to getting used to streaming. Making sure to talk back to the chat room if they ask questions and all the things that are involved with being a good streamer.
 

Seanspeed

Banned
Looking at monitors...I've ordered this one. However, this one is also available for just £5 more. Anyone know which is the better option?

Not alone that, but this monitor also appears to be cheaper, despite the "-P" version of it looking more expensive in the OP.

What say you, gaf? Stick with the one I've got, or get one of the others?
The one you ordered is 1920x1200(16:10), which is usually more desirable unless you watch a lot of movies.
 
The one you ordered is 1920x1200(16:10), which is usually more desirable unless you watch a lot of movies.
Until you want to play the odd console port that doesn't offer native 16:10 and you have to mock around with flawless widescreen and ini files for half an hour to get true 16:10.
 

Addnan

Member
So I understand that the 670 is a faster card than the 760. The Gigabyte GTX 760 Windforce OC 2GB that I was looking at performs very similarly to a 670 but is still, in the majority of games tested, beaten by it - if only by a frame here and there.

However, I've spotted an Asus GTX 670 DirectCU II OC 2GB that is $50 less than the 760 mentioned above, even though on Newegg it's $65 more expensive. This....is a great deal right?

A 670 for $210? That's a great price.
 

Honey Bunny

Member
A 670 for $210? That's a great price.

Hah not quite that great, it's $50 less than the 760 costs at this swiss site, not newegg's price. The 670 is 254 chf (equiv. $275), and newegg has it for $325. So that's good right? And I'd want to choose it over the $50 more expensive 720 I mentioned?
 

Addnan

Member
Hah not quite that great, it's $50 less than the 760 costs at this swiss site, not newegg's price. It's 254 chf or $275, and newegg has it for $325.

Aah, forget you are just converting price. If that is similar price to the 760 then yeah get the 670. It is the better card overall. Definitely buy it if it is less.
 

mkenyon

Banned
I just wanted to preface this by saying thanks to everyone keeping this thread going; especially Hazaro. I had not built a PC in years; so this guide was a huge help.

When I was collecting the parts for my build; I had no gaf account. I was just approved now; so posting my parts is more for feedback; but it's too late to alter it at this point:

  • BitFenix Prodigy
  • Intel Core i5-4670K - Socket LGA1150, 3.4Ghz
  • ASUS ROG MAXIMUS VI IMPACT Socket 1150 Intel Z87
  • G.Skill 16GB (2 x 8GB PC3-12800 1600MHz DDR3 RAM - 10-10-10-30) - RipjawsX Series
  • Seasonic Platinum-660 Fully Modular 80PLUS 660W PSU
  • MSI GeForce GTX 770 Twin Frozr 3 2GB GDDR5
  • Samsung 840 Series 120GB 2.5" SATA 6Gb/s SSD
  • Corsair Hydro Series H60 2013 Liquid CPU Cooler
  • ASUS (DRW-24B3ST)
  • WD10EZEX 1TB
  • Microsoft Windows 8 64-Bit English OEM

Cheers!
Mmmmmmmmmmmmmmm

One helluva build there. Please do post some feedback on that Impact. I must know more! Pics too!
 

Zaph

Member
I just wanted to preface this by saying thanks to everyone keeping this thread going; especially Hazaro. I had not built a PC in years; so this guide was a huge help.

When I was collecting the parts for my build; I had no gaf account. I was just approved now; so posting my parts is more for feedback; but it's too late to alter it at this point:

  • BitFenix Prodigy
  • Intel Core i5-4670K - Socket LGA1150, 3.4Ghz
  • ASUS ROG MAXIMUS VI IMPACT Socket 1150 Intel Z87
  • G.Skill 16GB (2 x 8GB PC3-12800 1600MHz DDR3 RAM - 10-10-10-30) - RipjawsX Series
  • Seasonic Platinum-660 Fully Modular 80PLUS 660W PSU
  • MSI GeForce GTX 770 Twin Frozr 3 2GB GDDR5
  • Samsung 840 Series 120GB 2.5" SATA 6Gb/s SSD
  • Corsair Hydro Series H60 2013 Liquid CPU Cooler
  • ASUS (DRW-24B3ST)
  • WD10EZEX 1TB
  • Microsoft Windows 8 64-Bit English OEM

Cheers!
My build is almost identical. Word of advice regarding the Prodigy/H60/Impact combo - it's difficult to mount the H60 2013 (due to the thicker, longer tubes. It's very different to the old version you see in builds) anywhere else other than the top fan hole closest to the front of the case. This means you'll not be able to use the 5.5" bay for a drive (if you were planning to).
 

kennah

Member
Rephrase of a previous question: Are the 960GB/1TB SSDs a waste of money?

Depends on your definition of waste. I'd totally do it if I could afford it, but it's not something you necessarily _need_ to do. If it's just for playing back media, it's kind of a waste. If you're doing lots of video work/want to keep your whole steam library on an SSD then go for it.
 

Anton668

Member
Rephrase of a previous question: Are the 960GB/1TB SSDs a waste of money?

would have to be a case by case situation. if you look at the cost a dont even blink an eye vs if you see the cost and have to have paramedics called... (a person who sees the price and goes "fuck it, i'll buy 4!" vs a person who sees the prices and hopes one day they win the lotto will see "waste" entirely differently)

plus also what Kennah said, depending on what your main use for it will be.

combine the two and it varies person to person...
 

mkenyon

Banned
Rephrase of a previous question: Are the 960GB/1TB SSDs a waste of money?
No.

Depending on what you enjoy, some other pseudo-luxury purchases that I would say should be prioritized before it:

GTX780/Titan/7970
Great headphones
Soundcard/DAC
120/144Hz Monitor
Great case
Mech keyboard
 

Seanspeed

Banned
Euu. 16:9 all day.
Yea, matter of taste. Seems most enthusiasts I've come across online do prefer 16:10 if they can get it, though.

Until you want to play the odd console port that doesn't offer native 16:10 and you have to mock around with flawless widescreen and ini files for half an hour to get true 16:10.
Haven't come across this issue yet, but that does sound like a pain.

According to the reviews that's a misprint(ie. it's 1080 pixels high). I'm just unsure whether to go for the one that's £5 more, not sure what improvements it offers, if any.
Ah yea, missed that, my bad.
 
Whats a good CPU to replace my current one? I currently have an i3-2120 with a 7850 2gb.

Something in the $200 price range would be good. I'm currently looking at the i5-3570k but want to make sure its the best possible one before going for it.
 

mkenyon

Banned
Whats a good CPU to replace my current one? I currently have an i3-2120 with a 7850 2gb.

Something in the $200 price range would be good. I'm currently looking at the i5-3570k but want to make sure its the best possible one before going for it.
Motherboard?
 

mkenyon

Banned
Only reason I ask is that there's basically no reason for you to get a K processor, as you won't be able to overclock it. Just get the standard 3570.

*edit*

Also, Kharma, you were asking about when people actually upgraded from the i3 to i5/i7. Anecdote right here for ya :p
 
Only reason I ask is that there's basically no reason for you to get a K processor, as you won't be able to overclock it. Just get the standard 3570.

*edit*

Also, Kharma, you were asking about when people actually upgraded from the i3 to i5/i7. Anecdote right here for ya :p
Is that the best option? I'm more then willing to get a new mobo or replace some other parts. Want to be ready for inc gen.
 

kennah

Member
And since you'd be replacing CPU anyway - may as well upgrade upgrade. But you'd still get over $100 for the CPU+mobo combo you already have.
 

TJ Bennett

TJ Hooker
Reposting for a new page. Thanks again!


I need help, GAF! The PC I built this weekend doesn't work quite yet. The fan on the cpu and the 3 fans within the case all turn on. The light on my motherboard is lit up. There is power to both my hard drive and my dvd drive. None of the ports on the back of the motherboard seems to function (monitor says no signal, neither keyboard or mouse show signs of life when plugged in).

Here's a list of my parts along with a few pics. I plan on cleaning up the wires once I know that everything is in place. Many thanks!

Memory: G. Skill Ares Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
Video Card: Sapphire Radeon HD 7850 2GB Video Card
Case: Fractal Design Core 3000 USB 3.0 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case
Power Supply: Antec Basiq Plus 550W 80 PLUS Certified ATX12V Power Supply
Monitor: Asus VS228 22" Monitor
CPU: Intel i5-4670k
Motherboard: MSI Z87-G45

PC1.jpg

PC2.jpg

PC3.jpg

I reseated the CPU and RAM. Still the same problems.



I pulled out the battery, shorted it for 5 seconds, and placed it back into place. Still the same problems.

I should also note that after the computer boots, it stays on for 10 seconds or so before restarting. After that it stays on.

Thank you everyone for the help!

I just unplugged ever power connector and replugged them in. Still the same result. I was way off on the time though. It stays on for about 25 seconds before restarting, not 10 seconds like I stated earlier.

I also tried booting with just one stick of RAM in slot 2 and got the same result.

Thanks for the assistance, Hazaro!
 
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