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"I need a New PC!" 2013 Part 2. Haswell = #IntelnoTIM, but free online. READ THE OP.

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Ryne

Member
Any reason you want to upgrade motherboard? A Z77 would have native USB3, but that's about it. You would need Ivy bridge to take advantage of PCI-E 3.

A bigger SSD and GPU would be the best upgrade. The 580 is still a solid enough card, but there are better. What's your budget?

This is the exact MB that I have - http://www.asrock.com/mb//overview.asp?Model=Z68 Extreme3 Gen3. I was told that in order to get some of the newer CPUs, I would need to upgrade that board.

Budget is about 1000 bucks for new parts. That's all my computer savings for this year.
 

Addnan

Member
Not worth upgrading the 2600K. Still a monster CPU, with overclock it will perform as well as any Ivy or even Haswell. Put the money towards maybe a GTX 780 and a 120hz monitor.
 

Ryne

Member
Not worth upgrading the 2600K. Still a monster CPU, with overclock it will perform as well as any Ivy or even Haswell. Put the money towards maybe a GTX 780 and a 120hz monitor.

Will do, after updating my bios, seems I'm still on v1. Probably will pick up the BenQ XL2420T and a new card.
 
Does using a third-party cooler void the warranty on the CPU since you have to cover it with paste?

No but when you send the CPU in for warranty, typically you have to send the CPU together with the stock heatsink. It might have changed in recent times but the stock heatsink actually has its own serial code that corresponds to the relevant CPU.
 

kharma45

Member
Will do, after updating my bios, seems I'm still on v1. Probably will pick up the BenQ XL2420T and a new card.

Hold off on the new card another few weeks just to see what AMD bring out, but grab the monitor now.

A good heatsink too you should invest in if you don't have it for overclocking that i7. You'll get anywhere from 4.2-5GHz with it.
 
I take it back, scan.co.uk are awesome.

First, the GPU arrives within 20 hours of ordering, with Free delivery (select cards only)

And they're emailing me a code for Batman even though they could have easily said that the product page made no mention of it when I ordered the GPU

:D


Strongly recommended site for the fellow Brits here :)
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
Even if the fires didn't damage production, prices will still shoot up for any excuse.
Mouse halp. I hava Logitech G500. It's been super awesome, until now.

In the span of about 5 - 10 minutes, the time it took me to unplug everything, pick up my desk, place a mat under the desk, and rehook everything up, the left click on my G500 has been acting all kinds of stupid. It's like the signal is cutting in and out; sometimes it wont register a click at all, and sometimes it mistakes a single click for a double. Best way to show the problem would be for me to drag a highlight box around the Windows desktop. The box will cut in and out as if I'm releasing and pressing the mouse button, even though I'm only holding it down.

I thought it might be a driver issue, so I uninstalled the Logitech gaming software, then reinstalled the latest version. Alas, no dice.

Has my mouse broken, somehow, in that short period of time? Later on I'm going to try it out on my housemate's laptop, see if the issue occurs there.
Are you on USB 2.0? Also RMA.
 

Ryne

Member
Hold off on the new card another few weeks just to see what AMD bring out, but grab the monitor now.

A good heatsink too you should invest in if you don't have it for overclocking that i7. You'll get anywhere from 4.2-5GHz with it.

Thank you for the advice, I will wait on the GPU.

Going to be an expensive month for me, that's for sure.
 
general ssd memory management help.


got a 128gb one a year or so ago and was surprised that i got the 'no memory' error today. Haven't really installed anything on it (install most things on a 1tb disc based drive besides like photoshop). looked at some stuff before work on windirstat, but couldn't really figure out what things i could delete o_O

Things like itunes and thunderbird... didn't know they took that much space... itunes does seem to love to backup my ios shit often... yet won't save it to where my library is located >.>"

Even hibernate takes up 12 gb or so (I assume its the same as how much ram?).


Any general tips?
 

Azulsky

Member
general ssd memory management help.


got a 128gb one a year or so ago and was surprised that i got the 'no memory' error today. Haven't really installed anything on it (install most things on a 1tb disc based drive besides like photoshop). looked at some stuff before work on windirstat, but couldn't really figure out what things i could delete o_O

Things like itunes and thunderbird... didn't know they took that much space... itunes does seem to love to backup my ios shit often... yet won't save it to where my library is located >.>"

Even hibernate takes up 12 gb or so (I assume its the same as how much ram?).


Any general tips?

You can move music to your HDD. No need for that to be on SSD, same for any movies and game you dont care about load times with.

My solution was to not run a pagefile/hiberfile
 

Addnan

Member
Exciting. First time trying to get 4.7.

H5hHrBl.png
 
Mouse halp. I hava Logitech G500. It's been super awesome, until now.

In the span of about 5 - 10 minutes, the time it took me to unplug everything, pick up my desk, place a mat under the desk, and rehook everything up, the left click on my G500 has been acting all kinds of stupid. It's like the signal is cutting in and out; sometimes it wont register a click at all, and sometimes it mistakes a single click for a double. Best way to show the problem would be for me to drag a highlight box around the Windows desktop. The box will cut in and out as if I'm releasing and pressing the mouse button, even though I'm only holding it down.

I thought it might be a driver issue, so I uninstalled the Logitech gaming software, then reinstalled the latest version. Alas, no dice.

Has my mouse broken, somehow, in that short period of time? Later on I'm going to try it out on my housemate's laptop, see if the issue occurs there.

I think the wires might be damaged. I had that mouse half a year ago and it was acting the same. Out of nowhere it drops connection in and out. I just replaced mines a few months ago.

4.7 Ghz that's a beast at 1.184 voltage as well.
 

kennah

Member
general ssd memory management help.


got a 128gb one a year or so ago and was surprised that i got the 'no memory' error today. Haven't really installed anything on it (install most things on a 1tb disc based drive besides like photoshop). looked at some stuff before work on windirstat, but couldn't really figure out what things i could delete o_O

Things like itunes and thunderbird... didn't know they took that much space... itunes does seem to love to backup my ios shit often... yet won't save it to where my library is located >.>"

Even hibernate takes up 12 gb or so (I assume its the same as how much ram?).


Any general tips?

Is this a desktop? Running hibernate on a desktop ssd is a really good way to pointlessly reduce drive life. Turn off page files and hibernation, you don't need them any more. i
 

AlexMogil

Member
Heck with it, I'm going to list my build while I am waiting on my power supply. Any critiques?

Processor: Intel Processor, Core i5-4670K 3.4GHz 6MB 84W, Box
Motherboard: GA-G1.Sniper M5 Gigabyte Tech Motherboard, mATX Z87 Socket1150
RAM: 2x Corsair 8GB (2x4GB) Vengeance Pro 240-pin PC3-17066 2133MHz DDR3 DIMM Kit, Black
Boot Drive: Samsung 256GB SSD 840 PRO 2.5" Internal Solid State Drive
Data Drives: 2x WD 2TB WD Caviar Green SATA 6Gb s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive - 64MB Cache
Blu: BW-14D1XT Asus BDXL Maximum Data Storage 3D Blu-ray Writer
Video Card: Gigabyte Tech GeForce GTX 770 PCIe Graphics Card, 4GB
Case: Fractal Design Chassis, Arc Midi R2 with Window ATX Micro ATX Mini ITX 8x3.5" Bays 2x5.25" Bays 7xSlots, Black
Power Supply: CP-9020061-NA Corsair 750W Modular Power Supply
Mouse: Logitech G400s Optical Mouse
Headset: Cooler Master Storm Sirus S Surround Sound
Monitor: Asus 27" VG27AH Full HD 3D IPS LED Monitor, Black
Proc Fan: Corsair Hydro Series H80i High Performance Liquid CPU Cooler


I've changed my mind and decided to do a little bit of overclocking so I got the Corsair H80i.

I do gaming, virtualziation, and some coding. Should last me a while, right?
 

Madridy

Member
Anyone know how much is this case worth used? Maybe for a collector?

COOLER MASTER CSX Blue Flame:

dsc07311cya6r.jpg



dsc07303u8zv8.jpg



dsc07314v2yr7.jpg



Quite an old case, but has some limited edition paint job.
 
Hm... strange GPU Behavior.

ASUS Z87 PRO board (BIOS v1205).

The GPU (XFX Radeon 7850 2GB Black Edition) won't work in PCIE 3.0 x16, only 2.0 even though it supports 3.0

I enabled it in BIOS manually since by default, it works in Auto (x1 to preserve power and give you access to extra SATA ports):

(this is their screenshot, I have set it to x4)
ASUS%20Z87-Pro%20BIOS%2034%20-%20Onboard%20Devices.png


In the Onboard Devices options above show the available controller options, but one option should be pointed out – the ‘PCI Express X16_3 slot (black) bandwidth’ is set to automatic by default, which means this slot is put at x1. In order to make the final slot run at x4, this option must be adjusted, but in turning the slot to x4 we lose options such as the ASM1061 storage controller, reducing our SATA count effectively by two. This is because some of the PCIe lanes from the PCH are on switches to work with one or the other – not both. I would perhaps have preferred the PCIe x1 slots to be disabled when the x4 is enabled, but that is more my personal usage scenario, whereas ASUS has to cater for the majority of their end users as polled.

http://www.anandtech.com/show/6989/...aswell-gigabyte-msi-asrock-and-asus-at-200/15

So I did that but I only get to 2.0 in GPU-Z:

XtBoy1N.gif


Bus Interface: PCI-E 3.0 x16 @ x16 2.0

what gives?
 
Do you guys recommend the external build, and power test when the Motherboard, CPU, cooler, RAM and Video Card are assembled, before putting it in the case and adding the Hard Drive and SSD?
 

t-ramp

Member
Do you guys recommend the external build, and power test when the Motherboard, CPU, cooler, RAM and Video Card are assembled, before putting it in the case and adding the Hard Drive and SSD?
I would say no. However, if your motherboard has onboard video, it wouldn't be a bad idea to try booting after the CPU and RAM are installed to verify basic functionality (i.e., access the BIOS) before you go all in with installing the video card and doing cable management.
 
Yes, of course.
Ok, thanks. I have a 7950 in use on my Windows 8 machine but every couple of seconds the sound will cut out if I'm not in a 3D application. I know this is a bug in AMD drivers and there's a fix out there but I've already tried it and the sound continues to cut in and out. Any help?
 
Ok, thanks. I have a 7950 in use on my Windows 8 machine but every couple of seconds the sound will cut out if I'm not in a 3D application. I know this is a bug in AMD drivers and there's a fix out there but I've already tried it and the sound continues to cut in and out. Any help?

I had this issue and the way I solved it was to up the 2D memory clock. This was a few drivers ago though. There was a guide for setting up a profile in CCC to handle this that I followed and it worked perfectly. I'd have to do some searching to find it again.

Edit:

Here it is: http://www.techpowerup.com/forums/showthread.php?t=117633
 

t-ramp

Member
How do I remove those? I can't seem to see them in c drive.
You can turn hibernate off by launching cmd as an administrator and then running the command "powercfg h off". As for the page file, there are a few ways to get to it, but on Windows 7 at least, you can search "Adjust the appearance and performance of Windows" from the Start menu and get to the settings directly. It's under the Advanced tab there.

I wouldn't turn the page file completely off, though. Maybe set it to 400MB or so.
 
I would say no. However, if your motherboard has onboard video, it wouldn't be a bad idea to try booting after the CPU and RAM are installed to verify basic functionality (i.e., access the BIOS) before you go all in with installing the video card and doing cable management.

I think I do have on-board video, will probably try that then :)
 
I had this issue and the way I solved it was to up the 2D memory clock. This was a few drivers ago though. There was a guide for setting up a profile in CCC to handle this that I followed and it worked perfectly. I'd have to do some searching to find it again.

Edit:

Here it is: http://www.techpowerup.com/forums/showthread.php?t=117633
This is the fix that I tried multiple times but every time I run GPU-Z it shows that the clock isn't actually changing when I invoke the preset. I'm inclined to believe it since the sound keeps cutting out but I don't know where to go from there :/
 

Addnan

Member
I can get it to boot at 4.8. but temps are way too high for me to be comfortable with. Dropped it down. Wonder if that is just a limitation of my cooler or is it just typical Ivy hitting it's wall. Hmm. Around 72 max at 4.7 1.18v. 1.2 4.8 = close to 90 lol.
 

Azulsky

Member
I can get it to boot at 4.8. but temps are way too high for me to be comfortable with. Dropped it down. Wonder if that is just a limitation of my cooler or is it just typical Ivy hitting it's wall. Hmm. Around 72 max at 4.7 1.18v. 1.2 4.8 = close to 90 lol.

Thermal Wall from heat/power pos feedback.
 

Rufus

Member
Guys, I need some help/confirmation troubleshooting my PC:

So, the screen just went black as I was watching a Youtube video and idling some Steam Trading Cards in the background. The monitor showed a "No signal detected" warning, so I assumed my 4890 finally kicked the bucket. I checked the cables and opened up the case to see if anything had come loose, but everything seems to be in order.

There are some other problems though that make me think it could be the PSU or Motherboard:
1) Does a video card usually just die without warning signs?
2) I had to turn off my PC at the PSU switch for some reason. Pressing or holding down the power switch did nothing. Motherboard issues?
3) I can't reliably turn it on again. Sometimes it's fine, fans are spinning, PSU seems to be working fine, I hear a beep and everything. At other times it won't start at all. Nothing.
4) Even if it starts, I don't see any lights on my keyboard. Now I might not be remembering this right because I never pay attention to it when it works, but shouldn't the num-lock LED be on if it's POSTing correctly?
 

mkenyon

Banned
Yeah, something important just died.

Only way to figure it out really is to troubleshoot and isolate a single part at a time.
 

Crisco

Banned
Yeah, unplug or uninstall everything you don't need to post. So all expansion cards except video and all but one memory stick. Clear your CMOS with the jumper. If it doesn't start, try each memory stick individually. Sounds like a motherboard issue to me though. Did you recently remount your heatsink? Sounds a lot like what was happening to my PC when I had some TIM get into CPU socket.
 

Rufus

Member
Not recently no, about a year ago.
It won't even turn on right now so it might just be the PSU. Do they sputter to their death like this; working, then not, then working, then dead? If I can get it powered I'll do what you suggested, but it looks like it's the PSU right now. At least I hope it's just that as I don't have the money right now to replace anything else.

Anyway, thanks for the help so far. I just saw that we have a troubleshooting thread, too... Huh.
 
This is the fix that I tried multiple times but every time I run GPU-Z it shows that the clock isn't actually changing when I invoke the preset. I'm inclined to believe it since the sound keeps cutting out but I don't know where to go from there :/

I think the key is to increase the 2D memory clock but you could possibly use a different utility other than a CCC preset that can achieve the same goal. Possibly someone here more familiar with AMD graphics card overclocking utilities like MSI Afterburner or something along those lines can help. It's just the 2D memory clock, the 3D clocks should be fine in my experience.
 

mkenyon

Banned
Not recently no, about a year ago.
It won't even turn on right now so it might just be the PSU. Do they sputter to their death like this; working, then not, then working, then dead? If I can get it powered I'll do what you suggested, but it looks like it's the PSU right now. At least I hope it's just that as I don't have the money right now to replace anything else.

Anyway, thanks for the help so far. I just saw that we have a troubleshooting thread, too... Huh.
That's not as commonly frequented, FWIW.

Troubleshooting here totally works.
 

Crisco

Banned
You can try jumping it with a paper clip if the power switch on your case/mobo isn't doing anything. Find the green and black wires on the main 20 or 24 pin power connector and jam a paper clip or some other thin metal wire in there. If that doesn't turn your PSU on then it's definitely dead.
 

Rufus

Member
Yeah, tried that and the PSU is definitely dead. Going to order the Corsair CX430M recommended in the OP. I'll know in a few days if anything else is broken. I'll report back then.

That's not as commonly frequented, FWIW.

Troubleshooting here totally works.
Oh well, I subscribed to it anyway.
 

Rufus

Member
Welp, change of plans. Took it out and jumped it again. Aaaand the fan spins. Must not have done it corectly the first time. Guess I'll do the procedure you suggested after all. Sigh. Shit.
 

Crisco

Banned
Keep in mind, your PSU turning on from being jumped doesn't necessarily mean it's fine. It just means it's not 100% dead, but still might not be pushing enough juice to run your entire system. The only way to really be sure is to give it some load and then test the lines with a voltmeter. Glad to hear it's alive though.
 
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